Man, I thought the fractal vise [restoration] at Hand Tool Rescue channel was cool. This is just as cool. I love the old tools with development such as these two vises, it’s like you said, “…they’re intuitive…”
It's refreshing to see an honest restoration video. There's so few of them out there. Although I think I would call this more of a clean and oil than a restoration but that is nitpicking a bit.
I'm in love with this thing. The simplicity behind it makes me feel dumb for some reason and that doesn't happen often. U should make a a larger version of it. I'd watching a 6-10 video series just showing that project
I just watched another channel (Abom79) showing a similar vice,but one that relies on friction to moderate the jaw plates. In comparison to the ball system it was very complex to set ,needing repeated adjustments and finally getting torqued to a certain level. This pseudo-fluidic ball system is far superior.
Great video. I rebuilt a milling machine version of this device a few years ago. Doesn't get a lot of use but is handy when needed. As for a magnetic base, I took magnetic tool holder strips, screwed them on a oversized board, covered it all with some aluminum flashing and it works great. Just clamp the board to the work station and use just as yours works but cheaper!
Love the form factor/engineering, clear plate over ball-bearing, not the removel/repainting of the original paint. And it's YOUR project so you do it YOUR way. Much thanks for showing This VERY interesting vise!
Try running a bead of epoxy around the base of the wire wheel inside and outside where the wires crimp into the base. It virtually eliminates wire strand ejection. 👍
Love watching you restore stuff! You are awesome and so much fun to watch. Now that said, as a machinist and tool and Die maker by trade, "You did what with a Brown and Sharp magnetic vice?!" 🤣
Very cool! As a geek, though, it behooves me to point out that a version with multiple rows would work even better, like one of those pin boards that kids love to play with.
Fascinating vise, never seen one like it. Great restore. One thing, it's a pet peeve. Those aren't ball bearings, they're bearing balls. Ball bearings have balls, two races, and a cage and maybe seals.
I've always been fascinated with the fractal vise.. this one is just as fascinating.. the best part is that I will make a very interesting project to try and build one in the home shop.. the most complicated thing will probably be the leadscrew
@Paul Womack yes 100% correct... I've just never been quite successful turning acme threads on my Myford... especially a bigger pitch for a leadscre. Always get a lot of chatter and have to take a million finishing passed to clean up.
It's interesting to see how this thing was constructed. I wonder how many iterations it took them to come with rounding off the back of the gripper plates. Flat obviously wouldn't push the balls aside enough, but too sharp won't let any of them build up pressure behind it.
I'd love to see you make a fractal vice and a larger version of this one that would be really cool man! You have a subscriber Hopefully someday I can watch you build yours and recreate my own
After seeing the reel. I looked for one it must a rare antique very interesting vice....Never seen that style before. I to see you build a larger one. Great video.
The reason this mechanism works so well is that the rear of the jaws are rounded. This is exerting sideways pressure forcing the balls to move sideways rather than just backwards. It’s a detail that people should be aware of
Fantastic job, CHRIS!⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ You have the patience of a Saint, for R&R like this one!😇 Would love to find one of these vises for all the crazy things I have to clamp up.👍 Great channel⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Wow, what a great bit of engineering. Simple design but super-effective. I think you could adapt the principle of this design to make other hold-down tools. It might work for an adaptive box brake.
Really interesting! I have never seen a vise like that. I'm surprised that there aren't more of these being sold. The quantity of bearings and the size of the void above the bearings are critical for the jaws to move. Today you could program a computer to calculate the number of bearings needed. Based on age I'd guess trial and error was how the mechanism was designed. Your restoration is first class, except for the labels. There are people that can make duplicate labels for restoration projects. It would be worth the effort to get new labels. Bob
That does look like an interesting, accessible fabrication project to replicate. The challenge of creating a larger-scale version with only salvaged or off-the-shelf components could be of use.
Bearing size and material would also be critical. As you increase the size the force on the bearings would increase. My guess is its proportional to the square of the applied force. Flattening the bearings would become an issue.
The working principle seems much like the kind of robotic gripper that consists of coffee grounds in a rubber balloon like bladder. At normal pressure the grounds and the bladder conform to the shape of the target after which a vacuum is applied to tighten the grip. This vice employs bars that implement the gripping action. Might not the same principle be applied to a 2D array of hexagonal rods? I find myself somewhat motivated to attempt to make one.
i canNot believe thiss didnt become a standard design, thats n absolutely brilliant idea!! it looks like it works well i Will b making one lol if i can find it
Awesome! Thanks so much for sharing. It is incredible how the old timers were able to make things work without all the 'technology' we have today. Thanks again.
This is pretty interesting design. I have floor stands that use same principle to have fully adjustable jack stands having two pipes that fit over each other and inner one has bottom plate with triangle hole cut on it that allows ballbearings to drop down but wont allow them to flow up so easily. Taking jack stand off is bit harder since you need to turn it around to get bearing to fall back into inner tube or twist it to get them slip in. Also after long use there is metal dust and due poor storage water has gotten in and balls in couple of them had rusted in place, but lots of oil and smashing with steel bar got them out, cleaned and with some cleaning i have several working again and one missing most of its ball bearings. Taking them apart tool effort, essentially hammering the inner tube out since the bottom disk is bit larger than neck support on the larger one and only got it out by brute forcing the bottom plate to rip from one of its spot welds, bending it and then rewelding it back before brute forcing it back when assembling.
I wish I had one of those when I was still working it would have been very helpful I did a lot of work on small parts in vices including a 1-1/2" hand held vice I got at a swap meet!
Hope you read this. You should try painting the Allen key bolt heads a secondary complimentary color to give more contrast and pop. Little trick I thought of customizing my motorcycles. Everyone is amazed by the "detail". Just be careful inserting Allen key into bolt head, transfer and tighten.
Hey, I see this a lot with rubber cement. You may already know this and it didn't translate well over video, but in case you didn't I figured I'd share. Rubber Cement is not to be applied like most "glues". The proper way is to put a very thin layer on both the label and the vice where it's being attached. Let both sides almost completely dry. Like to the point where if you touch it with your finger it's almost not tacky at all. right when it gets to the point where it feels like it's completely dried up, stick them together and hit with like a rubber mallet or something. Put a scrap piece of flat wood on top and hit that if you are worried about damaging the label. They will never come apart.
Wow that's pretty cool. Congrats on your new to you tool/ toy. Hopefully you get great use out of it for many years to come my friend. Cant wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep restoratioing. Keep Making. God bless.
I have one of these that used to live on a Navy ship. Another nice feature of this vise is that the fixed jaw is on the same side as the handle. Most vises have the moving jaw and handle on the same side. Where this is particularly helpful is on a shaper or planer. With a shaper or planer you want the force of the stroke against the fixed jaw. If you positioned a regular vise such that the force was against the fixed jaw the handle would be against the machine and basically unusable.
You’ve got the “Anpogrip” version, right? I’ve found that with mine, and the size of my mill, I actually have mount it “backwards” so the handle is toward the column, otherwise it really just doesn’t line up with the cutter with any useable range. But I can work around it when I need to use it.
@@JeremyMakesThings I've always thought it was an AMPOGRIP but there wasn't a brand name on it so I guess it could be something else. The ALL CAPS seemed to be how they branded themselves. I found a matchbook on eBay and they had it that way there as well. Before this video I didn't know anyone else made them. Seems like the exact same vise.
@@therestorationshop the small amount of info I’ve found on these, E.W. Bliss bought the rights to them in 1957 from “American Machinery co Inc” aka “American positive Grip vise co” (where the name “AMPOGRIP” comes from.). The biggest difference I see between the Bliss version and my AMPOGRIP is rectangular (Bliss) vs dovetail (AMPOGRIP) ways. I have to imagine there were various versions of each. Super interesting vises all around.
Very cool old school vise/holder .. Great job on the restoration. Any reason you didn't just sand blast the castings clean? That would have been much faster than the wire wheel, and cleaner..
That's brilliant how it uses the bb's. Why aren't these still made I wonder? It would be easy to replicate if you had the workshop and tools to do so. Great video 👍
Probably the same reasons the fractal jaw vice never took off: as-new the device was too expensive for most hobbyists and, for a commercial shop, custom cut soft jaws are both more repeatable and can be set up to relieve stress points rather than applying equal pressure everywhere.
So the idea behind the balls is that they appears to work like a sort of "hydraulic" pressure, that is they behave like a non-compressible fluid. But without the issues of having to seal everything and all the engineering that would have to go into that. It's ingenious when you think about it
You get a better set as well with them being much larger particles. Hydraulic fluid isn’t viscous enough. I bet no liquid would really work. Clever how it’s same same but different.
That is such a genius design I'm surprised the Chinese haven't copied it yet. I'm a little touched in the head, there's no way I could've taken that apart without counting the balls to satisfy my curiosity. 🙃 Great video! As others have said, I like the format of sped up video with voice over audio.
Did you check the paint for lead? From what I could find, E.W. Bliss was bought in 1969, and had it's name changed, which is before the 1978 ban of lead paint sales in the U.S..
Nice restoration, thanks for sharing the video! At 9:30 you use rubber cement. When I use rubber cement, I apply it to both surfaces to be joined, then let it dry for 15 to 30 minutes before joining them. It was hard to tell in the video how you did it. I'm curious to know how you use rubber cement.
so contact cement, as opposed to rubber cement, is what you want for those labels. put a thin coat on each side of what you want to glue together, let it dry for a bit then push them together. it’ll never come off.
Great restoration! And, your patience in restoring for the video is exemplary! Now, let us (me) learn about rattle can attachment for a "sawzall"! Where did you purchase it? Or, did you make it?
Apply rubber cement to both side and allow to dry for a minute, then apply. The fact that is was sliding means the cement wasn’t dry enough before adhesion was attempted.
Very cool vise, never seen one like that before.. if i wanted one, how much money would I have to spend to acquire one..Thx for sharing your experience...
I only wish your would slow down so could see more of the machining that was done while I'm pretty sure could copy this it would help but very cool vise .and im gonna make 1 for my wife .it will come in handy for her rock work for sure and may even work on are rock cutting .
I'm sure you can make one with thinner jaw plates for better contour precision. I really hope you make one and post the video. That would be pretty fascinating to watch.
Abom79 has a very similar vise to this one, came here from looking for the one he has. Keep up the good work and cheers from Cleveland Ohio Also you did WHAT to that poor Brown & Sharpe mag chuck?!?!?!?!? Ahhhhh I'm just kidding weve got an old B&S mag chuck thats junk at our shop that we use for painting so its fine
That's a Really ingenious mechanism. I imagine those ball bearings aren't cheap; they'd need to be tough to survive the working pressures W minimal distortion. I don't think simple hardening would be enough, and that would be tricky enough on items like that.
Heat treating them wouldn't really be a problem. They probably do it similar to how they make lead shot, ie by dropping molten liquid metal from height into water. Obviously they would need to fine tune the temperature and height of drop, as well as the temperature of the cooling fluid, and the size of the molten steel jets which need to be tuned to make the right sized droplets, but once those are all dialed in the process would be amazingly quick
So if the balls have higher compression strength, the maximum clamping force will also be higher so long as everything else doesn’t break. Would be cool to see this vise implemented with 2D molding jaws made with a fine mesh of spherical metal ends to really get into those small crevices. Wonder what the trade off in performance here would be as you go finer and finer
This is awesome. Came here in a flash from your IG short that was recommended to me . Clever how you used the magvice! In your insta short you mentioned this refurbish AND building your own larger one? Have you got plans to still do this. Would love to see you make a big one!
As a machinist I would disagree about the magnetic chuck being misused. Best use of an old tool. Recycle where you can friend. 👍 thanks for the content.
Hey man well done, BUT….in the future when you’re using adhesive on flat surfaces you need to scuff those surfaces up. Just like paint the adhesive needs cuts and grooves to get down into so that the parts hold from multiple directions and secure better.
Another good alternative to ball bearings in making one of these, is grease. If the viscosity is right, you don't need outrageous tolerances on the jaw segments. I've seen a grease only version, and I don't think it even had seals.
The channel Jeremy Makes Things restored one of a different brand name in 2021. Some differences that I noticed, There appeared to be shims between the jaws, and the rear plates had zerk fittings on them. There is definitely a service out there that can replicate those aluminum badges for you.
if i was to design a vice like this i would have it be hydraulically actuated with a 2 dimensional array of pins on each jaw to apply the pressure. each pin could potentially also have an articulating pad on the end.
Man, I thought the fractal vise [restoration] at Hand Tool Rescue channel was cool. This is just as cool. I love the old tools with development such as these two vises, it’s like you said, “…they’re intuitive…”
That's what I though, why are these antiques and only available to 3d print?
I’ve seen the fractal vise as well. Awesome restore. All the crescent shaped jaws are awesome. 👍
This is a poor man's fractal vise.
But this still looks really useful.
@@geoff4383 it's better imo, fractal one is harder to reset
also harder to malke
What?! a restoration with no rust, no mud, no fake paint?! I love it!
It's refreshing to see an honest restoration video. There's so few of them out there. Although I think I would call this more of a clean and oil than a restoration but that is nitpicking a bit.
The jaws are knurled?! Interesting.
I thought so too, what a pain it must have been to form those knurls on curved jaws like that…
I'm in love with this thing. The simplicity behind it makes me feel dumb for some reason and that doesn't happen often. U should make a a larger version of it. I'd watching a 6-10 video series just showing that project
I like your format
Speeding up the video and doing voice over keeping us informed without boring us with the tedious tasks.
Thank you
I just watched another channel (Abom79) showing a similar vice,but one that relies on friction to moderate the jaw plates. In comparison to the ball system it was very complex to set ,needing repeated adjustments and finally getting torqued to a certain level.
This pseudo-fluidic ball system is far superior.
I have never seen that type of vice before,interesting,thank you
That is genius! Such a simple design and it works so efffortlessly(now that you got it cleaned up, of course)! Nice resto, Chris!
Great video! And nice nod to Hand Tool Rescue at the end, I could tell that was one their spanner wrenches in the vice!
I’ve got to give Eric credit every now and then
@@MakeEverything Both your channels are terrific!
I’ve never seen one of these, but I’m definitely going to keep my eyes open for one. Thanks for the tutorial on how they operate.
Great video. I rebuilt a milling machine version of this device a few years ago. Doesn't get a lot of use but is handy when needed. As for a magnetic base, I took magnetic tool holder strips, screwed them on a oversized board, covered it all with some aluminum flashing and it works great. Just clamp the board to the work station and use just as yours works but cheaper!
Love the form factor/engineering, clear plate over ball-bearing, not the removel/repainting of the original paint. And it's YOUR project so you do it YOUR way. Much thanks for showing This VERY interesting vise!
Your video made me want to buy a thing I never knew existed!
Thank you for making the acrylic lid. Great idea!
Try running a bead of epoxy around the base of the wire wheel inside and outside where the wires crimp into the base. It virtually eliminates wire strand ejection. 👍
Great advice!
The use of the magnetic chuck for a gringing/wire wheeling is ingenious and can cut down the work time.
Love watching you restore stuff! You are awesome and so much fun to watch. Now that said, as a machinist and tool and Die maker by trade, "You did what with a Brown and Sharp magnetic vice?!" 🤣
Oh, and also as a Machinist; this design would be absolutely FANTASTIC for my line of work
😂😂 thank you for watching!!!
@@MakeEverything if you ever need any bits and bobs machined, you know where to get ahold of me 😂😂
Very cool! As a geek, though, it behooves me to point out that a version with multiple rows would work even better, like one of those pin boards that kids love to play with.
I first thought this was a fractal vice, but its quite different. Love this video. Thank you so much
Fascinating vise, never seen one like it. Great restore. One thing, it's a pet peeve. Those aren't ball bearings, they're bearing balls. Ball bearings have balls, two races, and a cage and maybe seals.
good point.
holy shit! thats an inGENIOUS design!!!!! i wonder how or y that didnt become more popular..
What a clever and practical devise, nice restoration to boot. thanks for bringing this to our attention.
I've always been fascinated with the fractal vise.. this one is just as fascinating.. the best part is that I will make a very interesting project to try and build one in the home shop.. the most complicated thing will probably be the leadscrew
leadscrew is straightforward single point turning on a lathe?
@Paul Womack yes 100% correct... I've just never been quite successful turning acme threads on my Myford... especially a bigger pitch for a leadscre. Always get a lot of chatter and have to take a million finishing passed to clean up.
It's interesting to see how this thing was constructed. I wonder how many iterations it took them to come with rounding off the back of the gripper plates.
Flat obviously wouldn't push the balls aside enough, but too sharp won't let any of them build up pressure behind it.
Whoah whoah whoah wait a minute... that bag over the magnet is amazing.
The vice is very clever and your video was a pleasure to watch!
Love that simple, elegant solution to dimensional holding.
Thats a truly great implementaion of an adaptiv vise. I could see myself building one with that ball bearing design!
I'd love to see you make a fractal vice and a larger version of this one that would be really cool man! You have a subscriber
Hopefully someday I can watch you build yours and recreate my own
What a fantastic vice. Great job on the restoration.
After seeing the reel. I looked for one it must a rare antique very interesting vice....Never seen that style before. I to see you build a larger one. Great video.
What a cool find and restoration. Man, that would be pretty crazy if you actually manufactured a version!
Two Words... VHT Epoxy Paint... It will change your life. Dries so fast, and super durable.
It's a really cool idea that you can replace liquids with ball bearings
Great video ,, a handy vise too ,, the clear plate was a gem of an idea.
Awesome "fractalish" vice!...great restoration!
It's not at all fractalish. "Compliant", yes, but there is nothing fractal - like about it. There are vices that are, but this is not that.
@@ExtantFrodo2 yes I know what a fractal vice is that's why the ish...
The reason this mechanism works so well is that the rear of the jaws are rounded. This is exerting sideways pressure forcing the balls to move sideways rather than just backwards. It’s a detail that people should be aware of
Fantastic job, CHRIS!⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
You have the patience of a Saint, for R&R like this one!😇
Would love to find one of these vises for all the crazy things I have to clamp up.👍
Great channel⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
I was looking forward to this! Such a great vice. So glad you shared this with us, otherwise I would of never known they existed !
Ingenious design
Amazingly simple for such a useful tool. Thanks for showing it!
Wow, what a great bit of engineering. Simple design but super-effective. I think you could adapt the principle of this design to make other hold-down tools. It might work for an adaptive box brake.
Really interesting! I have never seen a vise like that. I'm surprised that there aren't more of these being sold. The quantity of bearings and the size of the void above the bearings are critical for the jaws to move. Today you could program a computer to calculate the number of bearings needed. Based on age I'd guess trial and error was how the mechanism was designed.
Your restoration is first class, except for the labels. There are people that can make duplicate labels for restoration projects. It would be worth the effort to get new labels.
Bob
You don't need a computer.
Computers are really good at doing mathematics you can do mathematics with a pencil and paper.
LOL.
You don't need to count the bearings, you can just measure weight and/or volume to get it close enough.
There are no bearings in this video. Those are steel balls that are often used in bearings.
That is one cool vice, and you did a great job restoring it, i would love to own one of those, great video, thanks for taking the time.
That does look like an interesting, accessible fabrication project to replicate. The challenge of creating a larger-scale version with only salvaged or off-the-shelf components could be of use.
Bearing size and material would also be critical. As you increase the size the force on the bearings would increase. My guess is its proportional to the square of the applied force. Flattening the bearings would become an issue.
Your one of my favorite youtubers
You're
Awesome video man! I’ve never seen one of these before. Like your narration.
The working principle seems much like the kind of robotic gripper that consists of coffee grounds in a rubber balloon like bladder. At normal pressure the grounds and the bladder conform to the shape of the target after which a vacuum is applied to tighten the grip. This vice employs bars that implement the gripping action. Might not the same principle be applied to a 2D array of hexagonal rods? I find myself somewhat motivated to attempt to make one.
i canNot believe thiss didnt become a standard design, thats n absolutely brilliant idea!! it looks like it works well i Will b making one lol if i can find it
these jaws are briliant! same as the idea with the magnetic table! love it, need to get one my self 🙂
Nice, I’ll cool to see some of the minor differences between this and the Ampogrip version. I like the set screws to lock the jaws.
I’ve also considered trying to build one out of a Kurt clone…probably one of those things I’ll never get around to.
Awesome! Thanks so much for sharing.
It is incredible how the old timers were able to make things work without all the 'technology' we have today. Thanks again.
Very awesome mechanism. Thank you for sharing and for the clear cover reveal.
This is pretty interesting design. I have floor stands that use same principle to have fully adjustable jack stands having two pipes that fit over each other and inner one has bottom plate with triangle hole cut on it that allows ballbearings to drop down but wont allow them to flow up so easily. Taking jack stand off is bit harder since you need to turn it around to get bearing to fall back into inner tube or twist it to get them slip in. Also after long use there is metal dust and due poor storage water has gotten in and balls in couple of them had rusted in place, but lots of oil and smashing with steel bar got them out, cleaned and with some cleaning i have several working again and one missing most of its ball bearings. Taking them apart tool effort, essentially hammering the inner tube out since the bottom disk is bit larger than neck support on the larger one and only got it out by brute forcing the bottom plate to rip from one of its spot welds, bending it and then rewelding it back before brute forcing it back when assembling.
I wish I had one of those when I was still working it would have been very helpful I did a lot of work on small parts in vices including a 1-1/2" hand held vice I got at a swap meet!
Hope you read this. You should try painting the Allen key bolt heads a secondary complimentary color to give more contrast and pop. Little trick I thought of customizing my motorcycles. Everyone is amazed by the "detail". Just be careful inserting Allen key into bolt head, transfer and tighten.
Hey, I see this a lot with rubber cement. You may already know this and it didn't translate well over video, but in case you didn't I figured I'd share. Rubber Cement is not to be applied like most "glues". The proper way is to put a very thin layer on both the label and the vice where it's being attached. Let both sides almost completely dry. Like to the point where if you touch it with your finger it's almost not tacky at all. right when it gets to the point where it feels like it's completely dried up, stick them together and hit with like a rubber mallet or something. Put a scrap piece of flat wood on top and hit that if you are worried about damaging the label. They will never come apart.
Came here to say this.
Wow that's pretty cool. Congrats on your new to you tool/ toy. Hopefully you get great use out of it for many years to come my friend. Cant wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep restoratioing. Keep Making. God bless.
I have one of these that used to live on a Navy ship. Another nice feature of this vise is that the fixed jaw is on the same side as the handle. Most vises have the moving jaw and handle on the same side. Where this is particularly helpful is on a shaper or planer. With a shaper or planer you want the force of the stroke against the fixed jaw. If you positioned a regular vise such that the force was against the fixed jaw the handle would be against the machine and basically unusable.
Does it carry the same E W Bliss branding?
You’ve got the “Anpogrip” version, right? I’ve found that with mine, and the size of my mill, I actually have mount it “backwards” so the handle is toward the column, otherwise it really just doesn’t line up with the cutter with any useable range. But I can work around it when I need to use it.
@@paulwomack5866 Mine has no branding. The only maker of a vise like this I had found was AMPOGRIP.
@@JeremyMakesThings I've always thought it was an AMPOGRIP but there wasn't a brand name on it so I guess it could be something else. The ALL CAPS seemed to be how they branded themselves. I found a matchbook on eBay and they had it that way there as well. Before this video I didn't know anyone else made them. Seems like the exact same vise.
@@therestorationshop the small amount of info I’ve found on these, E.W. Bliss bought the rights to them in 1957 from “American Machinery co Inc” aka “American positive Grip vise co” (where the name “AMPOGRIP” comes from.). The biggest difference I see between the Bliss version and my AMPOGRIP is rectangular (Bliss) vs dovetail (AMPOGRIP) ways. I have to imagine there were various versions of each. Super interesting vises all around.
Very cool old school vise/holder .. Great job on the restoration. Any reason you didn't just sand blast the castings clean? That would have been much faster than the wire wheel, and cleaner..
That vice is so cool!
Such a cool looking vice
Thank you very much for sharing this video. I have never seen one of these vices before though many times I could have done with one.
That's brilliant how it uses the bb's. Why aren't these still made I wonder? It would be easy to replicate if you had the workshop and tools to do so. Great video 👍
Probably the same reasons the fractal jaw vice never took off: as-new the device was too expensive for most hobbyists and, for a commercial shop, custom cut soft jaws are both more repeatable and can be set up to relieve stress points rather than applying equal pressure everywhere.
So the idea behind the balls is that they appears to work like a sort of "hydraulic" pressure, that is they behave like a non-compressible fluid. But without the issues of having to seal everything and all the engineering that would have to go into that. It's ingenious when you think about it
It's all particle dynamics regardless of the size of the particles
You get a better set as well with them being much larger particles. Hydraulic fluid isn’t viscous enough. I bet no liquid would really work. Clever how it’s same same but different.
That is such a genius design I'm surprised the Chinese haven't copied it yet. I'm a little touched in the head, there's no way I could've taken that apart without counting the balls to satisfy my curiosity. 🙃 Great video! As others have said, I like the format of sped up video with voice over audio.
Did you check the paint for lead? From what I could find, E.W. Bliss was bought in 1969, and had it's name changed, which is before the 1978 ban of lead paint sales in the U.S..
Nice restoration, thanks for sharing the video! At 9:30 you use rubber cement. When I use rubber cement, I apply it to both surfaces to be joined, then let it dry for 15 to 30 minutes before joining them. It was hard to tell in the video how you did it. I'm curious to know how you use rubber cement.
Your way is the correct one
Very unique design for sure.
so contact cement, as opposed to rubber cement, is what you want for those labels. put a thin coat on each side of what you want to glue together, let it dry for a bit then push them together. it’ll never come off.
1st time viewer...really nice job. I like the pace and length of the video. Keep up the good work!
Did a great job, I would love to find one of those.
Very cool! Awesome find!!
Great restoration! And, your patience in restoring for the video is exemplary!
Now, let us (me) learn about rattle can attachment for a "sawzall"! Where did you purchase it? Or, did you make it?
It’s called the mix kwik! It’s fantastic!
@@MakeEverything Thank you!
Amazing, simple design.
Very nice restoration ❤
"schmutz" i like that one, great job.
Apply rubber cement to both side and allow to dry for a minute, then apply. The fact that is was sliding means the cement wasn’t dry enough before adhesion was attempted.
Great vid and awesome vice. Might I suggest a pop filter for your mic :) Constructive criticisim of course!
Very cool vise, never seen one like that before.. if i wanted one, how much money would I have to spend to acquire one..Thx for sharing your experience...
I only wish your would slow down so could see more of the machining that was done while I'm pretty sure could copy this it would help but very cool vise .and im gonna make 1 for my wife .it will come in handy for her rock work for sure and may even work on are rock cutting .
Very nice vise,, I think the oil you put in with the bearing balls are making them stick a little bit, maybe a thinner oil wil be better?
making a huge version would be cool
I'm sure you can make one with thinner jaw plates for better contour precision. I really hope you make one and post the video. That would be pretty fascinating to watch.
Great video. Super interesting device. Gotta get me those W40 products. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Abom79 has a very similar vise to this one, came here from looking for the one he has. Keep up the good work and cheers from Cleveland Ohio
Also you did WHAT to that poor Brown & Sharpe mag chuck?!?!?!?!? Ahhhhh I'm just kidding weve got an old B&S mag chuck thats junk at our shop that we use for painting so its fine
That's a Really ingenious mechanism.
I imagine those ball bearings aren't cheap; they'd need to be tough to survive the working pressures W minimal distortion. I don't think simple hardening would be enough, and that would be tricky enough on items like that.
Heat treating them wouldn't really be a problem. They probably do it similar to how they make lead shot, ie by dropping molten liquid metal from height into water. Obviously they would need to fine tune the temperature and height of drop, as well as the temperature of the cooling fluid, and the size of the molten steel jets which need to be tuned to make the right sized droplets, but once those are all dialed in the process would be amazingly quick
What ball bearings? Oh did you mean those steel balls?
Very clever design indeed
So if the balls have higher compression strength, the maximum clamping force will also be higher so long as everything else doesn’t break. Would be cool to see this vise implemented with 2D molding jaws made with a fine mesh of spherical metal ends to really get into those small crevices. Wonder what the trade off in performance here would be as you go finer and finer
This is awesome. Came here in a flash from your IG short that was recommended to me . Clever how you used the magvice! In your insta short you mentioned this refurbish AND building your own larger one? Have you got plans to still do this. Would love to see you make a big one!
Thanks for watching!! Yes I’m working on the drawings for it as we speak! Same basis of design just scaled up to 6” wide
@@MakeEverything Great, that’s super exciting! Looking forward to see how it turns out.
As a machinist I would disagree about the magnetic chuck being misused. Best use of an old tool. Recycle where you can friend. 👍 thanks for the content.
Hey man well done, BUT….in the future when you’re using adhesive on flat surfaces you need to scuff those surfaces up. Just like paint the adhesive needs cuts and grooves to get down into so that the parts hold from multiple directions and secure better.
Genius idea
Another good alternative to ball bearings in making one of these, is grease. If the viscosity is right, you don't need outrageous tolerances on the jaw segments. I've seen a grease only version, and I don't think it even had seals.
There are no ball bearings in this video, just FYI. Those are just steel balls.
Awesome vice man! Love this restoration! Nice work!
The channel Jeremy Makes Things restored one of a different brand name in 2021. Some differences that I noticed, There appeared to be shims between the jaws, and the rear plates had zerk fittings on them. There is definitely a service out there that can replicate those aluminum badges for you.
Nice job!
if i was to design a vice like this i would have it be hydraulically actuated with a 2 dimensional array of pins on each jaw to apply the pressure. each pin could potentially also have an articulating pad on the end.
coolest thing since the fractal vise...
i think i may make one of these for my machine school project, thats bomb