I wish there were some load numbers for IMCA stock cars that were freely shared here in the mid-west. Always a big secret around here. Really like your content and your Enthusiasm.
I've been watching some of Jay's videos so much stuff has changed from when I was running in the late 90s to me running this year I've been trying to watch a few videos of guys using the load stick I'm try to understand it I'm going to change the BSB springs and shocks and I want to get one of them load sticks from what I'm seeing changing springs and stuff to keep your car ride height and stuff from usual load stick it makes it easier putting it back after you do changes spring. But good video buddy keep up the good work thanks
You will have to have base numbers from each set of springs to figure what you need to reach your weight goal. Will take time to get the numbers but be great at the track to adjust to conditions.
For the future, consider using body bolts on those front fenders so you can pop them off easily. That will make it easier to get in there and take those measurements with the tire on. I pretty much have my whole body bolted on these days to make it easier to access stuff underneath
It looked like I was maybe getting somewhere around 2 inches compression max Darren. I'm planning to strap a gopro on the corner at some point as well.
I sure like it BUT I think I am going to stop using the NutSerts. They get damaged and then spin loose and you have hell getting them out, tightened, or replaced. I think I would be better off to use the clips or just nut and bolt it.
@@DIRTRACELIFE I use the clips instead just drill a 3/8 hole near an edge and they clip on if they don’t stick pop another one on if you want one where there is no edge drill a 3/8 and 1/2 hole 1 inch apart slide the clip through the bigger hole to clip into the 3/8 hole I build body’s in my opinion some of the coolest in Texas I would like to remain anonymous on here but I can message you on another platform show you some tricks and ideas
From watching you do that it looks easier to put the jack on the lower control arm then remove the tire and bolt the load stick on and use a jack stand on the frame then remove the jack.
I think that would be easier for sure. Usually, when I jack under the lower arm, I see the car rise some before the tire does and changes according to how close I am out toward the wheel. So I would definitely have to put the jack in the same spot each time.
Just a question I have zero idea but a thought couldn't you get the reading of how far your shock compresses and not the spring to get a start on a reading?
I think so if I follow you here. You can look at how much the shock compresses and do the math to get some idea. From what I understand is pretty un accurate but does get you in the ball park.
Do you need to unbolt the shock so it’s floating or remove it for the load stick can work correctly? I don’t know just my guess since it bolts on where the shock goes and not everyone has to shock mounting areas. Plus I’m just commenting to help out so youtube can push your channel!!!!
I sure appreciate the help, but I do think you are correct on the shock. In my mind, I am thinking if I always have the inboard shock on the car, then I can get good results. Either always on or always off... I can't prove this is true, but logic sure seems to make me think so.
You are on an unknown road because you built your own car, that's what nice about purchasing a chassis is that that will give length C/C numbers and load numbers. Now one other thing you need to take into consideration is what load will the tire take before it scrubs off ! You just have to find what works and as long as when you do that make sure the shock you had on the car is the same that's why you should take it off because when you do this at the track it takes extra time to replace what you take off and you know as well as I do sometimes you don't have a lot of time in n Racing seriations.
That a good point Dana, As I build a data set and learn what each of my cars will hold it still will never apply to any other car. But on the bright side it sure helps to paint the picture of what the car likes and doesn't like and even though it won't be exactly the same on my next build it surely has to cut the learning curve down substantially. I agree, without a seriously experienced crew and some very good processes I doubt I would tackle spring changes between races on the same night unless I knew I had at least a good hour of time guarantied.
Instead of changing springs in between races could you not run a softer spring and then add the spring rubbers to increase your spring rate then you would just have to swap spring rubbers to dial it in at the track
I think you could Eric. What would be neat is to do pull downs with different springs and then do softer springs and rubbers as well and compare the charts of the two. Now that would be a useful piece of info!!!
You have to make a lock out stick for the other side. I have some made for my CRUSA SS and once I ge teh engine back in I am planning to show them. And you have to have the longer end on the ratchet where it will reach.
Freddie, I don't have a home track. There are 7 tracks which are closer and I visit but all are 1.5 hours to 2 hours away. I am located in West TN about 60 miles north of Memphis.
Sure it is, It's for you to use however you would like. Guys are constantly learning new information and figuring out how to use them to figure out more. I've figured out something different for the new car because of what we are after on how we will set that car up. And it will be different from this but that doesn't make one way wrong or one way right. As long as it is giving you information that is helpful, then you are using it right ;)
Another great episode of my favorite channel
Thanks Junior
Excited to hear about the spring changes as I am putting that full size back together this year ...
Learning all the time James 😀
I wish there were some load numbers for IMCA stock cars that were freely shared here in the mid-west. Always a big secret around here. Really like your content and your Enthusiasm.
Thank you Gene, we plan to use the Load stick all year and just share everything as we go on both the coil car and leaf car.
Here is another channel setting up IMCA type cars using load sticks. ruclips.net/video/hbN1y2mexAM/видео.html&ab_channel=RobertsRaceCarsbyBBB
I've been watching some of Jay's videos so much stuff has changed from when I was running in the late 90s to me running this year I've been trying to watch a few videos of guys using the load stick I'm try to understand it I'm going to change the BSB springs and shocks and I want to get one of them load sticks from what I'm seeing changing springs and stuff to keep your car ride height and stuff from usual load stick it makes it easier putting it back after you do changes spring. But good video buddy keep up the good work thanks
Thank you Rick and hope you do well figuring it out too.
You will have to have base numbers from each set of springs to figure what you need to reach your weight goal. Will take time to get the numbers but be great at the track to adjust to conditions.
That's next then, just getting every number on both cars to have a starting point.
For the future, consider using body bolts on those front fenders so you can pop them off easily. That will make it easier to get in there and take those measurements with the tire on. I pretty much have my whole body bolted on these days to make it easier to access stuff underneath
You are SO CORRECT on this Nick. I got a clue and did that on the orange coil car. Life is so much easier when the fenders come off easy.
Track was slick slick yesterday, probably going to have to wait till race day to get some good data.
It looked like I was maybe getting somewhere around 2 inches compression max Darren. I'm planning to strap a gopro on the corner at some point as well.
Attach your front fenders with body bolts makes life a peice of cake when you need to work in there
I sure like it BUT I think I am going to stop using the NutSerts. They get damaged and then spin loose and you have hell getting them out, tightened, or replaced. I think I would be better off to use the clips or just nut and bolt it.
@@DIRTRACELIFE I use the clips instead just drill a 3/8 hole near an edge and they clip on if they don’t stick pop another one on if you want one where there is no edge drill a 3/8 and 1/2 hole 1 inch apart slide the clip through the bigger hole to clip into the 3/8 hole I build body’s in my opinion some of the coolest in Texas I would like to remain anonymous on here but I can message you on another platform show you some tricks and ideas
Great videos I can't wait to learn with you I do not have clothes fix probably won't have but I still would like to know how they work
Ronald, appreciate you following along. If we learn together, I garruntee we'll find some part of it helpful regardless of having a load stick or not.
@@DIRTRACELIFE sounds good always waiting on the new video
From watching you do that it looks easier to put the jack on the lower control arm then remove the tire and bolt the load stick on and use a jack stand on the frame then remove the jack.
I think that would be easier for sure. Usually, when I jack under the lower arm, I see the car rise some before the tire does and changes according to how close I am out toward the wheel. So I would definitely have to put the jack in the same spot each time.
Just a question I have zero idea but a thought couldn't you get the reading of how far your shock compresses and not the spring to get a start on a reading?
I think so if I follow you here. You can look at how much the shock compresses and do the math to get some idea. From what I understand is pretty un accurate but does get you in the ball park.
Do you need to unbolt the shock so it’s floating or remove it for the load stick can work correctly? I don’t know just my guess since it bolts on where the shock goes and not everyone has to shock mounting areas. Plus I’m just commenting to help out so youtube can push your channel!!!!
I sure appreciate the help, but I do think you are correct on the shock. In my mind, I am thinking if I always have the inboard shock on the car, then I can get good results. Either always on or always off... I can't prove this is true, but logic sure seems to make me think so.
You are on an unknown road because you built your own car, that's what nice about purchasing a chassis is that that will give length C/C numbers and load numbers. Now one other thing you need to take into consideration is what load will the tire take before it scrubs off ! You just have to find what works and as long as when you do that make sure the shock you had on the car is the same that's why you should take it off because when you do this at the track it takes extra time to replace what you take off and you know as well as I do sometimes you don't have a lot of time in n Racing seriations.
That a good point Dana, As I build a data set and learn what each of my cars will hold it still will never apply to any other car. But on the bright side it sure helps to paint the picture of what the car likes and doesn't like and even though it won't be exactly the same on my next build it surely has to cut the learning curve down substantially.
I agree, without a seriously experienced crew and some very good processes I doubt I would tackle spring changes between races on the same night unless I knew I had at least a good hour of time guarantied.
Instead of changing springs in between races could you not run a softer spring and then add the spring rubbers to increase your spring rate then you would just have to swap spring rubbers to dial it in at the track
I think you could Eric. What would be neat is to do pull downs with different springs and then do softer springs and rubbers as well and compare the charts of the two. Now that would be a useful piece of info!!!
LOVE YOURE VIDEOS, HOW DO YOU USE A LOAD STICK ON REAR OF A USRA STOCK CAR????
You have to make a lock out stick for the other side. I have some made for my CRUSA SS and once I ge teh engine back in I am planning to show them. And you have to have the longer end on the ratchet where it will reach.
What is your home track?
Freddie, I don't have a home track. There are 7 tracks which are closer and I visit but all are 1.5 hours to 2 hours away. I am located in West TN about 60 miles north of Memphis.
That is not the right way to use the stick
Sure it is, It's for you to use however you would like. Guys are constantly learning new information and figuring out how to use them to figure out more. I've figured out something different for the new car because of what we are after on how we will set that car up. And it will be different from this but that doesn't make one way wrong or one way right. As long as it is giving you information that is helpful, then you are using it right ;)