Nicely done John. I often turn off lights in bright daylight to eliminate yellow casts. What is your opinion on the overall effect of having lights off on reasonably bright days?
Thanks. I actually used to shoot a lot of houses with all of the lights off. It's easier to get a nice white balance and avoid warm color casts like you said. There's a few issues I have with it though. The first is that there's an odd feeling seeing a house with all of the lights off that's listed for sale, it gives it sort of a vacant feeling instead of a homey feeling. There's all these light fixtures that are obviously off and no glow coming from them. This is more of an emotional aspect than a technical one but home purchases are based in part on how the home makes a buyer feel. Another is that it creates more dynamic range which can create additional challenges when you're trying to get the view back from bright windows in certain instances. You may need more photos in your bracket, and you also may encounter more chromatic aberration around the edges of windows because it's that much more of a difference between the brightness of the window and the brightness just around the inside corner of the window's edge. One thing that might help with this that I've been meaning to try is to shoot at a smaller aperture. The last thing is that there will be more intense shadows in the areas of the room that are not getting any direct light from the window.
@@JFPhotos1 I like you points on this. But it is sometimes hard to find a good interior white balance that allows for a credible exterior balance (greens look too blue). For some reason, I can never get the brushes to render a decent exterior green after the interior is white balance corrected.
@@rolloharte6825 I typically take care of this by using the temperature, dehaze, and saturation sliders for the brush that I have on the window. I'll push them fairly far too. The outside will be too cool if I don't so I do this pretty much every time. If you are still not happy with the greens I suppose you could target them with another brush and use range mask: color and select the greens and then push the hue slider closer to green. I don't think I've ever tried this technique in this exact scenario though.
My Sony NEX7 auto combines its HDR function shots to produce the merged image as a seperate photograph stored on the SD card. So the Lightroom HDR merge function is not always needed.
Nice video. Do you find that there are any penalties with using more photos (5, 7 or 9 as opposed to 3) for the HDR image? I would think that if I have the time, just shoot 9 images (the max my camera can do) and then just merge those in LR.
Well I've never tried using 9. I imagine some photos might be completely black or completely white in that bracket if they are 2 stops apart. I don't see a negative effect in the quality of the final image with more photos, but I don't see an advantage either if you can capture all the dynamic range you need with less. If you are shooting houses full time, you will see your hard drive fill up much faster with larger brackets. I take the minimum number of photos I can to cut down on storage space and stay organized, both on my SD cards and hard drives.
@@JFPhotos1 Thanks for the reply. I'm not a real estate photographer but I am interested in HDR for some photos (documentary images) and I find that real estate photographers are often the best at getting the most natural looking HDR images. I've just started playing with HDR photography and I've tried 9-image HDRs at 2/3 of a stop. I'm not currently tied down to any particular way of getting these images and they aren't for work. I often create the HDR DNG and then toss the original raws.
Thank you. Always Raw. If you cover all the dynamic range with your bracket, you could probably do fine with jpegs. I haven't tried it in a while. I would consider it if keeping file sizes down is important to you, check what the difference is on your camera.
Darken the windows with a mask, erase with the brush where you don't want and zoom in close, use space bar to drag photo where you want while you have brush open. Auto Mask (A) can help. Click-Shift/Click trick is helpful, I go over this in my latest 2 videos.
thanks for sharing your knowledge. I got your preset and the Real Estate Photography 101 course too .my question is, How do you fix the color cast in the ceiling and the fan shadow ?
Thank you. Use the adjustment brush with the flow set to 6, the feather set to 100, and the temperature set to -100. Adjust the size of the brush often with the mouse wheel and go back and forth quickly over the areas where there is a warm color cast. You should be using a real mouse and not a track pad to make this easier. When it looks like you have evenly targeted the color cast you can back the temperature off -100 a little bit if you think it's too much. I'll try and make a video on this soon.
Your tutorial is good but the room look sepia. How to handle strong yellow color? Some part is darker than other, how to handle the color cast? Thanks again.
My Lightroom Presets: bit.ly/presets-1
Online Coaching email: JFalkEnterprises@gmail.com
I like your "simplified" approach. So many editing videos on you tube make it WAY to complicated. Especially for a beginner.
Thank you very much, I try to keep it as simple as possible.
Exactly what I needed. Straight LR editing training, no Photoshop!
Glad it was helpful. PS can be time consuming.
Am I missing the step where you take your three original bracket images and then suddenly it's a combined HDR image?
Same question. He skipped that step
By far best Real Estate Edit tutorial, and I've been through a lot. Thanks for the great tips in LR.
Thank you very much, I appreciate you saying so.
So helpful! Thank you, love that trick. Can’t wait to try it.
Thanks
This was very helpful... straight to the point! Subscribed!!!
Thank you very much, I appreciate it. I'm glad it helped.
i really enjoyed this approach, lightroom for everything
Thanks, I think it's easier this way for most houses.
Thank You John
You're welcome, thank you very much for watching.
Nicely done John. I often turn off lights in bright daylight to eliminate yellow casts. What is your opinion on the overall effect of having lights off on reasonably bright days?
Thanks. I actually used to shoot a lot of houses with all of the lights off. It's easier to get a nice white balance and avoid warm color casts like you said. There's a few issues I have with it though. The first is that there's an odd feeling seeing a house with all of the lights off that's listed for sale, it gives it sort of a vacant feeling instead of a homey feeling. There's all these light fixtures that are obviously off and no glow coming from them. This is more of an emotional aspect than a technical one but home purchases are based in part on how the home makes a buyer feel.
Another is that it creates more dynamic range which can create additional challenges when you're trying to get the view back from bright windows in certain instances. You may need more photos in your bracket, and you also may encounter more chromatic aberration around the edges of windows because it's that much more of a difference between the brightness of the window and the brightness just around the inside corner of the window's edge. One thing that might help with this that I've been meaning to try is to shoot at a smaller aperture.
The last thing is that there will be more intense shadows in the areas of the room that are not getting any direct light from the window.
@@JFPhotos1 I like you points on this. But it is sometimes hard to find a good interior white balance that allows for a credible exterior balance (greens look too blue). For some reason, I can never get the brushes to render a decent exterior green after the interior is white balance corrected.
@@rolloharte6825 I typically take care of this by using the temperature, dehaze, and saturation sliders for the brush that I have on the window. I'll push them fairly far too. The outside will be too cool if I don't so I do this pretty much every time. If you are still not happy with the greens I suppose you could target them with another brush and use range mask: color and select the greens and then push the hue slider closer to green. I don't think I've ever tried this technique in this exact scenario though.
Cool ! Looking for that over year ....
Glad you liked the video.
With regards to Window pulls, what if there are plants or stuff near the windows?
Check out my latest video.
My Sony NEX7 auto combines its HDR function shots to produce the merged image as a seperate photograph stored on the SD card.
So the Lightroom HDR merge function is not always needed.
That sounds like it could be really convenient
Been doing it this way for a couple of years now, just wish Adobe would give us polygon or pen tool in Lightroom
I could see that being very useful.
Nice video.
Do you find that there are any penalties with using more photos (5, 7 or 9 as opposed to 3) for the HDR image? I would think that if I have the time, just shoot 9 images (the max my camera can do) and then just merge those in LR.
Well I've never tried using 9. I imagine some photos might be completely black or completely white in that bracket if they are 2 stops apart. I don't see a negative effect in the quality of the final image with more photos, but I don't see an advantage either if you can capture all the dynamic range you need with less.
If you are shooting houses full time, you will see your hard drive fill up much faster with larger brackets. I take the minimum number of photos I can to cut down on storage space and stay organized, both on my SD cards and hard drives.
@@JFPhotos1 Thanks for the reply. I'm not a real estate photographer but I am interested in HDR for some photos (documentary images) and I find that real estate photographers are often the best at getting the most natural looking HDR images. I've just started playing with HDR photography and I've tried 9-image HDRs at 2/3 of a stop. I'm not currently tied down to any particular way of getting these images and they aren't for work. I often create the HDR DNG and then toss the original raws.
Thanks for erase tool trick!
Glad you like it.
great video John. Do you shoot Jpeg or Raw?
Thank you. Always Raw. If you cover all the dynamic range with your bracket, you could probably do fine with jpegs. I haven't tried it in a while. I would consider it if keeping file sizes down is important to you, check what the difference is on your camera.
Hey what would you have done if the windows had blinds?
Darken the windows with a mask, erase with the brush where you don't want and zoom in close, use space bar to drag photo where you want while you have brush open. Auto Mask (A) can help. Click-Shift/Click trick is helpful, I go over this in my latest 2 videos.
When I merge my 3 jpegs in LR I get a really noisy HDR?
Try shooting RAW files, also make sure you are exposing correctly for the darker areas of the room.
thanks for sharing your knowledge. I got your preset and the Real Estate Photography 101 course too .my question is, How do you fix the color cast in the ceiling and the fan shadow ?
Thank you. Use the adjustment brush with the flow set to 6, the feather set to 100, and the temperature set to -100. Adjust the size of the brush often with the mouse wheel and go back and forth quickly over the areas where there is a warm color cast. You should be using a real mouse and not a track pad to make this easier. When it looks like you have evenly targeted the color cast you can back the temperature off -100 a little bit if you think it's too much. I'll try and make a video on this soon.
@@JFPhotos1 Waiting for it 👍
Just posted a video on color casts.
@@JFPhotos1 I'll watch it right now 👍🏻👍🏻
But there’s color casts on the walls and ceiling.
Your tutorial is good but the room look sepia. How to handle strong yellow color? Some part is darker than other, how to handle the color cast? Thanks again.
Try desaturating the yellow slider in the HSL panel by a lot.
get SNS HDR
Idk if this helps but - 3 , 0 , +3
You could try that. I find it best to not shoot more than 2 stops apart.