Great video, definitely keep making them as time permits. I learn something new each time. I have referenced back to your Briggs plastic carb video twice already lol
Hello I have questions I have a kohler confidant 19hp on a Wright stander 36 intensity it’s over 5 years old it has 3015 hours it has I ton of hours but it has an oil leak I took it to a mechanic a few months ago to fix the leak he put a new gasket on the oil pan and it still leaked I took it back to him and he fixed it again this time it was a little sweat of oil that wasn’t bad I decided to live with it but it’s gotten worse took it to another mechanic he said it’s not worth fixing cause I have a ton of hours and he said it’s a shame cause the engine runs good but to have repaired it will cost me over $700 and he said he can get me the same engine brand new for $1600 plus $400 to install what do you think I should do
Sure would be nice to see the results of your diagnosis. And how you can to that conclusion. A little more pertinent info and a little less idle chatter and sermons would be more helpful.
Have a Vermeer bc 600xl brush chipper with a Kohler 27 hp. Command . Want touch base on the fuel pump pickup to the bottom of the tank which is 3ft. I put a check valve at the top of the fuel tank outlet to keep the fuel from draining back in tank when shut down occurred. The suction of the fuel pump is enough to normal pull that far down on its own. It ok but want your input if you can.
Start it an take battery wires off, if it continies to run, uts NOT the stator. If it keeps running, check how much voltage is comin back to battery. U might hav the small ground wire not grounded good. Its the small wire that is connected to the large ground wire on battery. If it doesnt hav one ( some are grounded by engine and frame) Start checking for a bad ground.
Disconnect the harness from the engine to the mower. The engine will run without any power supplied however send 12v to the fuel solenoid. If not it won't receive fuel. Check the voltage now. Before you do anything actually check the voltage from the stator without the regulator plugged in. It's an a.c check not d.c.. remember that and compare both side. Ensure it's the same. I forget the actual amount of a.c current they should be but ensure the magnets aren't covered in oil etc. Them kawis leak oil on the top seal quite frequently. Then plug the regulator in and do as I stated above. Disconnect the engine harness power the solenoid and check the regulator again. If it's good plug it in and check once more. If it now shows bad you have a hot to ground scenerio I'd say. Start unplugging the pto and so forth until you see it charging correctly. Or the fuses work too by unplugging sometimes. Pto switches can cause that.. or just a plug that got hot bc of a bad connection can cause the short. Just remember to bypass the mower and check the engine before assuming it is the reg or the stator. Or ohm it. Many ways to verify.
@@gpt5002 I've actually had this happened to me twice now. The first time it was on an Exmark it turned out to be the ignition switch. The second time it was on a Kubota it turned out to be a fuse taped up in the wiring harness that wasn't visible. Appreciate you taking the time to respond.
Blown head gasket no offense would cause a lean condition. It would be pulling in more air than fuel period. The plugs would be white. Wanna know how to tell about the head gasket is one of two things... Leak down test and listen... Or you can do another thing... Run it and as you turn it off and it's shutting down you can hear the head gasket leak literally from the head. You'll hear a pss pss pss. That's the typical bad head gasket. If it blown between the lifters and cylinder I guarantee you it has a warped head. I've replaced many of them heads. Typically the veins around the cylinder is clogged with oil and dirt so the head gets hot and warps. Not the gaskets fault or the lifters. It's the c/s fault for not keeping it clean. Air cooled engine just think about it. I've never seen 30w cause an issue with this but I am in fl. I worked on plenty of them kohler's on the turf tracers. They r a true pain bc the exhaust has to come off first. Then the valve cover bolts always break neax to the exhaust unless you usean Impact screw driver with a socket it on it. Take ya time and work it out white hitting the impact with the hammer back and forth. Basically breaking the corrosion and beating the threads back in place in a way as it's removed. But sometimes that just doesn't work and they break. But yeah I hardly do compression checks anymore unless it's a saw. Just do a leak down test. Btw check the head on a flat surface. Ensure it's within spec. If not you'll have the same issue within a very short period of time and ya won't look professional. I had a D head boss but he taught me well with those. Definitely was pulling in oil tho. Wasn't flooding.. that was oil. Just my opinion.
Ps.. leak down test with the valve cover off would show you exactly where the leak was if it was between the cylinder and the lifters. They are known to stick lifters bc of lack of maintenance and oil becoming too thick. But that's not 30w issues that's burnt oil and overheated components
I dont stock alot,, just fast moving parts. I can get just about anything in a day or 2 so what the use..Dont hav to pay much inventory tax that way either. Lol But if ur not a business, u wouldnt pay tax anyways..thanx for the comment
10 minutes of my life I won't get back
Great video, definitely keep making them as time permits. I learn something new each time. I have referenced back to your Briggs plastic carb video twice already lol
Thank you, thats why i make em..
Hello I have questions I have a kohler confidant 19hp on a Wright stander 36 intensity it’s over 5 years old it has 3015 hours it has I ton of hours but it has an oil leak I took it to a mechanic a few months ago to fix the leak he put a new gasket on the oil pan and it still leaked I took it back to him and he fixed it again this time it was a little sweat of oil that wasn’t bad I decided to live with it but it’s gotten worse took it to another mechanic he said it’s not worth fixing cause I have a ton of hours and he said it’s a shame cause the engine runs good but to have repaired it will cost me over $700 and he said he can get me the same engine brand new for $1600 plus $400 to install what do you think I should do
Does the insulation in your building help keep your temperature down somewhat.
I don't have insulation.. I havba/c but can't use due to fumes..lol
Sure would be nice to see the results of your diagnosis. And how you can to that conclusion. A little more pertinent info and a little less idle chatter and sermons would be more helpful.
Have a Vermeer bc 600xl brush chipper with a Kohler 27 hp. Command . Want touch base on the fuel pump pickup to the bottom of the tank which is 3ft. I put a check valve at the top of the fuel tank outlet to keep the fuel from draining back in tank when shut down occurred. The suction of the fuel pump is enough to normal pull that far down on its own. It ok but want your input if you can.
Thats a stretch for a fuel pump.
Depends on the angle if fuel line. Id try ti flatten it out some.
Hands on is best
I have a Kawasaki fs801v that not charging. I've replaced the voltage regulator and the startor and I'm getting a negative reading on the regular
Start it an take battery wires off, if it continies to run, uts NOT the stator.
If it keeps running, check how much voltage is comin back to battery.
U might hav the small ground wire not grounded good.
Its the small wire that is connected to the large ground wire on battery.
If it doesnt hav one ( some are grounded by engine and frame)
Start checking for a bad ground.
Disconnect the harness from the engine to the mower. The engine will run without any power supplied however send 12v to the fuel solenoid. If not it won't receive fuel. Check the voltage now. Before you do anything actually check the voltage from the stator without the regulator plugged in. It's an a.c check not d.c.. remember that and compare both side. Ensure it's the same. I forget the actual amount of a.c current they should be but ensure the magnets aren't covered in oil etc. Them kawis leak oil on the top seal quite frequently. Then plug the regulator in and do as I stated above. Disconnect the engine harness power the solenoid and check the regulator again. If it's good plug it in and check once more. If it now shows bad you have a hot to ground scenerio I'd say. Start unplugging the pto and so forth until you see it charging correctly. Or the fuses work too by unplugging sometimes. Pto switches can cause that.. or just a plug that got hot bc of a bad connection can cause the short. Just remember to bypass the mower and check the engine before assuming it is the reg or the stator. Or ohm it. Many ways to verify.
@@gpt5002 I've actually had this happened to me twice now. The first time it was on an Exmark it turned out to be the ignition switch. The second time it was on a Kubota it turned out to be a fuse taped up in the wiring harness that wasn't visible. Appreciate you taking the time to respond.
Hmmm thanks for all the information. Looking forward to see the fix. Thanks for sharing.
Key way
Blown head gasket no offense would cause a lean condition. It would be pulling in more air than fuel period. The plugs would be white. Wanna know how to tell about the head gasket is one of two things... Leak down test and listen... Or you can do another thing... Run it and as you turn it off and it's shutting down you can hear the head gasket leak literally from the head. You'll hear a pss pss pss. That's the typical bad head gasket. If it blown between the lifters and cylinder I guarantee you it has a warped head. I've replaced many of them heads. Typically the veins around the cylinder is clogged with oil and dirt so the head gets hot and warps. Not the gaskets fault or the lifters. It's the c/s fault for not keeping it clean. Air cooled engine just think about it. I've never seen 30w cause an issue with this but I am in fl. I worked on plenty of them kohler's on the turf tracers. They r a true pain bc the exhaust has to come off first. Then the valve cover bolts always break neax to the exhaust unless you usean Impact screw driver with a socket it on it. Take ya time and work it out white hitting the impact with the hammer back and forth. Basically breaking the corrosion and beating the threads back in place in a way as it's removed. But sometimes that just doesn't work and they break. But yeah I hardly do compression checks anymore unless it's a saw. Just do a leak down test. Btw check the head on a flat surface. Ensure it's within spec. If not you'll have the same issue within a very short period of time and ya won't look professional. I had a D head boss but he taught me well with those. Definitely was pulling in oil tho. Wasn't flooding.. that was oil. Just my opinion.
Ps.. leak down test with the valve cover off would show you exactly where the leak was if it was between the cylinder and the lifters. They are known to stick lifters bc of lack of maintenance and oil becoming too thick. But that's not 30w issues that's burnt oil and overheated components
Bro spit it out already!
Dude's going on and on. This video could have been 7 Minutes shorter
I don't see any parts in your little shop and I have see a lot of your videos. I have more part and I just take care of my neighbors
I dont stock alot,, just fast moving parts.
I can get just about anything in a day or 2 so what the use..Dont hav to pay much inventory tax that way either. Lol
But if ur not a business, u wouldnt pay tax anyways..thanx for the comment
Lol no they didn't creat any awesomeness
Wendy's is not as good as it used to be.