Fantastic work Dave! You may have to branch out into vacuum tube repair, that was great! (Ok, "Valve" repair :^) Thanks for taking the time to share your projects with us.
P-type tubes, rimlock tubes, AA5 radios with a filament transformer, radios with station ID's instead of frequencies, and brands I never hard of. Never see that here. Dave, you are in a wonderfully odd part of the world. Great work as always.
Hi Dave, I own the octal valve version of your Philips 206A. Although my Philips radio (I can’t remember it’s model number) has identical Bakelite cabinet, and a similar dial, the version you have was manufactured for the European market. Philips radios of around the time your radio was manufactured generally incorporated side contact valves, whereas those manufactured in, or for the Canadian, Australian, New Zealand, and British markets generally incorporated octal valves. The reason I mention this; when I was watching you repair the valves, which I commend you for your dexterity and ingenuity, I thought if you was unable to get hold of the required replacement side contact valves at reasonable prices, you could change the valve bases, and convert the radio to octal valves (should you have any of those valves, and bases in your stash, as most valves are now pricey). You will find that particular model of Philips radio not presents a very pleasing tone, they are usually very sensitive, especially when aligned to specifications. I eagerly await the next upload: I know it will superb. Cheers my friend, Phil.
Hi Phil, that is interesting, I didn't know they made an octal version 206A although I know there are octal versions of the valves. I considered replacing the P bases with octals but it was to be a last resort as the owner wanted to keep it original. I had even considered removing the centre of the P base socket and installing an octal socket below so it still looked like a P base or even using a novel valve and housing it in a hollowed out P base glass envelope. We managed to get NOS valves where needed in the end, one from the UK. The radio sounded pretty good with the Rola speaker in it and as you say picked up stations I have difficulty receiving. Thanks as always Phil 👍🙂
Dear Dave, it's incredible, you combine so many professions and skills: Electrical Engineer, Tube Specialist, Cabinet Maker, Plastic Worker, Painter, Label Reconstructor, Image and Video Editor, Metal Worker, Lathe and Sandblasting Expert.... I am absolutely thrilled! I would have to hire at least more than ten people for all these jobs.... Many thanks for your efforts to document all these work processes with perfect videos and sound, warm greetings from Munich
Hi Michael in Munich, thank you, I'll 'have a go' at most things, sometimes it works, sometimes not but it keeps me busy in retirement. Thank you for your support Michael, cheers 🙂
Excellent going there Dave, dauntless :-) That radio is almost 100% post war build. See the "A.F.N." on the bottom of the dial? Means "American Forces Network" They started up just as the war was ending and in the beginning they were working from teporary locations on temporary Frequencies till they later permanently opened up in Berlin, Munich, Frankfurt etc when Germany was fully occupied. Also, if this radio was made in Nazi occupied Holland, the layouter of that dial depicting the position of the enemy radio station would have been instantly locked up and no dial made like that. The positions of the other stations hint that this is where they were before the Copenhagen wave plan came into effect 1948 and frquencies were reallocated. My guess: Late 1945 to 1947 Interestingly the City of Lahti in Finland is spelt wrong. The different voltage settings is pretty standard for 40s Europe, in Germany there was 110v in some city suburbs well into the 50s. Strange radio methinks.... Resocketing valves is big fun, yes? When I started resocketing 6E5s to make EM34 substitutes I also lengthened the wires, but later I took a spare valve base and cut out large openings in the side in order to position the wires with tweezers into the pin openings. If one then twists the valve back and forth very slightly and then withdraws it from this template base the wires will stay in exactly that position to then glue it into the original base and solder up. The best glue i came up with after a couple of errors is a non acedic, non conductive silicone called "Reinzosil" (not "Reinzosil-t" !!) It is a black gasket maker which goes up to 300 Celsius and sticks to glass really well. Cheers from Germany
Ahh, interesting Blitz, the owner believed it was 1942 and I think it says that on Radio Museum, I wondered why the occupied Philips factory was still producing domestic radios during the war, thanks for picking that up. Others have also said the voltages were different across Europe. That's a good idea with the valve socket, I'll keep that in mind. We don't have Reinzosil here but there will be an alternative, I find some Reinzosil on Oz eBay for only $14.25 but the shipping is $1,320.00 😏 Thank Blitz, you're a wealth of information, take care 🙂
@@DavidTipton101 I think that 473 number on the back might mean March 1947 - any other websites with the model on to compare numbers and serial numbers ? However even if Holland was occupied the intention would have been for the greater Germany to have the long term control of the low countries and thus radios for the populaces probably not discouraged, as they would need to hear broadcasts from Germany or by the German forces ?
I am in awe again. 99.9999% of us would give up in less than 5 minutes on something like this. Brilliant work! Can't wait for part 2. Thanks Sir David!!
Quite impressed by the valve restoration work. This old girl has seen some action back in the day. I think you got it well in hand and it should be up and running in no time. Looking forward to part 2. Take care Dave.
Wow! I have no interest in repairing radios other than watching you work your magic. I found myself holding my breath while you were taking that valve apart. Fabulously! Is there nothing you can’t do? Most impressed here in Tassie.
Hello David, Fascinating piece of history you have there. To imagine surviving the occupation and being active during that time. Those side contact sockets are something I have never seen. I have repaired many tubes with broken grid cap wires over the years. Once I had the wire soldered to the nib, I put epoxy to stabilize it, then epoxied the cap on. As long as no one plays with it they usually lasted the life of the tube. Chuckled as you struggled with getting the wires back in the tube base. Been there many times. Brought back memories. Still have a small container of conductive paint somewhere in a safe place. Now I just need to remember where safe is. Looking forward to the next installment.
Hello Vern, there has been some doubt cast over it's build date as it has AFN on the dial, AFN is the US military radio broadcast set up towards the end of the war but it adds to the mystery. It seems the side contact tubes didn't make it to the US in any number, that could be a good thing. I have done the same repair to grid caps and I do it to this one in part 2 but I'm not confident with it. I modified my wire retrieval system, it's a bit easier now. Thanks Vern 🙂
The signal tracing equipment and the oscilloscope looks handy! Maybe later on for me. 😀 I am only doing light vintage radio restoration at the moment on reasonable working condition vintage radio purchases, so this restoration video is fantastic to watch and a good guide to positive outcomes in my own future work. Thank you very much! I like the wiring coils and solder joining. I am just using hooks. I am using Frog Tape from Bunnings on paint jobs. 👍🙋♂️ Have a great weekend David!!!
The signal tracer is very handy, I only just assembled it from a kit I bought years ago but it works well. I try and remove the old lead and solder to the original terminal but sometimes it can't be done. J hooks are frowned upon by some but they work and are easy, I often wrap the new components lead into a spiral and solder it to the stub lead left from the old component. There are a number or clear edge tapes available now, Frog works well. Thanks Peter, avagoodweekend 🙂
Thank you for another excellent video Dave. One little tip I learned a long time ago from someone wise was about repairing broken grid cap wires. Valve envelope glass is relatively soft and with care it an be cut with a fine file. This method can relieve the glass seal to expose enough wire to effect a reasonably good solder joint onto a longer wire which is fed though the end cap. Over the years I have brought back a number of valves this way that were otherwise destined for the bin. Thanks again and best wishes.
Hi Arthur, thank you, it's my pleasure. In part two I reattach the cap using the method you describe, I am not convinced it is a permanent repair due to the tiny amount of wire I uncovered however and search for a replacement valve. Thanks for the tip 👍🙂
P valves and a spring solder sucker, you sir have the patience of a clock making Saint. Anything that I've ever encountered with P valves has always ended up in the circular file. You have my complete admiration.
Hi Dave, congratulations ! These pre-war and wartime Philips are as fascinating and advanced as they are a nightmare to restore now: wiring, grommets, wax caps, electrolytics, bowden cables ... I have an 890A and an 855A, both from Czechosvovakia, waiting for restoration since the nineties, but I don't dare starting up ...
You know your stuff David, you took radio repair to a whole new level, besides the chassis, there didn't seem to have anything else working lol Once again your video is both impressive and informative! Cheers Mate
My goodness Dave! Just when I think I've seen all your myriad talents, you surprise me yet again! Unbelievable repairs! From radios to phonographs to valves! Bravo!
Repairing a valve requires steady nerves and hands, but as you mentioned it is about finding methods for the various problems you are faced with. Always a pleasure to follow your escapades. :-) Thanks for showing us.
Greetings from the birthplace of this radio! Philips is was huge in Eindhoven, and although the company itself is no longer there, its legacy is everywhere and so are its buildings.
Welcome back Mr. Tipton" Hope your doing great . Got my cup of tea and cinnamon role, ready to be educated once again with your knowledge and humor ! "CHEERS"
Hi David Hope you are well and all your treatment is completed now. Incredible patience working on the “wobbly” valve and an outstanding result. I have done a couple of Philips radios and they can be very fiddly to work on but well within your skill set. Breaking news my dear wife has turned over the small bedroom to me for a radio room so no more freezing cold shed for my restorations! Spent several weeks redecorating and moving all my stuff in. Look forward to my next “warm” restoration. All the best Lynton.
Hi Lyndon, I am so sorry, I answered this comment last week but it's still here, I may have missed pressing send? I am well thank you, my treatment is completed and I am now recovering from it. The 'wobbly' valve had to be done, I have a number of these valves and they are mostly loose, it's good to know it can be fixed and look somewhat normal. Ahh bless your wife, you will be much warmer in there than cuddling up to a kero lamp. All the best Lynton 🙂
The work you did on that tube shield was a joy to watch. It looks totally original. You never cease to amaze me with your inventive repair methods. Can't wait for part 2.
Brilliant work Dave. The screen repair with the conductive paint I thought was good and at the point when you said I'll take it out to the workshop I thought he is not going to match the red paint up is he? And yes, you didn't disappoint. Even to the stage of retaining the patina by roughing it up. Pure genius. The best restoration channel on the web, surely! Keep 'em coming!
Hi Martin, thank you. I couldn't leave it with a silver band around it, I have painted them before and properly 'aged' they look the real deal 🙂 Thanks.
Bloody brilliant repair with the valve Dave, those side or P contact valves are increasingly difficult to source. Wish I had thought of high temperature engine paint excellent as always and I learned a new technique thanks!
Hi, those voltage settings won't need to imply exports to overseas. The common European grid and the 220(later 230)V AC default was established way after WWII, so before the war there were quite a mix of standards. 110V DC, 150V DC, 220V DC, 110V AC, 127V AC, 160V AC, 220V AC to name just a few "common" ones. I once got in possession of an old slide projector which used to be owned by the local school district in the 40s and 50s. Mounted on a board right beside it was a big, 150W variable resistor and a list of local villages (all within 25km) and all the different voltages used there... mostly 110V DC, 110V AC and 220V AC but I think there was a 150V DC one mixed in somewhere.
Thanks for explaining that CRK Retro Tech, I didn't know that Europe had different voltages early on but it makes sense. Your projector story was good 🙂
Great! That Frankenvalve was very clever but the fixing of that another tube deserves an Oscar! And the fixing of the output tube also was a good one! The grill cloth deserves a brand new one from Corrien Maas (since the radio is from the Netherlands...). Thanks. Alvaro.
I was on the edge of my seat when you were threading the wires back into the valve, am i normal ? Great video and camera work once again Dave, can’t wait for part 2 now. Be well, stay safe and god bless 🙂
@@DavidTipton101 No kidding Dave, with all the war content as intro, it felt like you were defusing a bomb or something 🙂 but i found the idea of soldering longer wires just brillant. I didn’t know one could ‘’repair’’ valves i always thought these things were super fragile, had to be air tight and once they were done you had no choice but to toss them out and get new ones, which reminds me of when my father would send me to the drug store to test some of our tv set's tubes. Yeah i am old enough to have watched tv in black & white...
@@raymondmenard5444 Haha... it wasn't quite as bad as defusing a bomb, they are pretty tough really. We had valve testers in Tandy I think, Tandy was Radio Shack in Australia. I'm old enough we didn't have TV till I was seven but I would curl up in front of the radio after dinner before that.
David, you are taking radio restoration to a new level. Most of us would have just binned that valve and got a replacement, but you carry out major surgery, bringing it back from the brink! Totally amazing! Eager for part II. Cheers, Jim L
Hi Jim, I agree a new valve would have been ideal but there were none and any used ones suffer the same problem. Now I know it can be done I can hopefully recycle a few more of a limited commodity. Thanks Jim, part 2 on Friday, cheers! 🙂
Always a pleasure to see your unique and resourceful methods put to work. Thanks for the informed trip into a piece that is older than I by a decade! Can't wait to see what you come up with to finish this one off. Brilliant work!
That is a real challenge to rebuild that radio especially when it 81 yrs old but I can see you are up to the task as usual. The grommet idea for the tuning capacitor was a great idea. I do hope your health is getting better every day David. I pray for your healing every day. Thanks for the great video.
HI LUCKYLARRY, Thank you. I bought a box of mixed grommets on eBay, very handy. I am good health wise, the next few years will tell how successful the procedures were. Thanks 🙂
David I really enjoyed this. I could not believe it when you did the repairs to the valve... and like all your work the end result was amazing. All I could think of while watching you was how long I would have retained my temper while working with those thin wires :) I hope you continue in good health and that the treatment is working for you. God bless you and your family.
Hi Kenneth, The valve repair was interesting, I wasn't sure if it would work. As for the wires, I put a radio on (I have one or two) and do one wire after another, I find it pleasant although I'm happy when it's finished. Thanks Kenneth, the treatment is over and I am slowly getting back to normal. All the best to you also 👍🙂
Great seeing a radio from here in the Netherlands from the war. There’s a museum in Texel here where they have Phillips radios from those days. Very innovative how you repaired that valve. Thanks for sharing this one, as well as others. Looking forward to the next chapter.
Hi Rocco, we visited the Netherlands a few years ago and didn't go to any radio museums and there was one not far from where we stayed, very disappointed. Thanks Rocco 🙂
Wow! Nice job on that valve. I’m sure you could grind a bit of glass off that output valve and get a better connection. It looks like being a nice wireless when it’s finished.
@@DavidTipton101 Your videos give us hope. Nothing worse than watching someone fix it perfectly then thinking "I could never do that" sure you mixed up a wire or 2 but without a catastrophic failure or Earth shattering KABOOM. You and Buzz do the best repairs because you show the faults and how to rectify them. But especially you because Australia and the ever frightening 240 Volts
Amazing work, Dave! Most people wouldn't even attempt to repair a vacuum tube but you made it look easy! You even restored the conductive coating AND the red finish on top of that! This is another one for my "Keep for Future Reference" notebook. BTW, despite the popular belief that JB Weld contains 5-10 percent iron filings and is therefore conductive, most websites agree that it is not and classify it as an insulator. Your use of conductive paint is therefore brilliant.
Hi SY, thank you. The loss of adhesion on these shielded valves is a common problem so a good fix was in order, it was pretty straight forward once I worked out how to do it, it will get easier if I need to do it again. I did wonder if the claim the JB Weld was conductive is accurate, it does contain metal I think but the chance of them making contact is unlikely. Thanks for your input on the matter 🙂
Lovely work as always David. One way I use to reconnect to the broken off top connectors on valves is to use a tiny spring soldered inside the cap to press onto the stub of the wire in the glass and then bond the cap on Sometimes the stub will take a blob of solder then you can connect a fine strand of wire which will not create any mechanical stress when run out through the top cap.
Hi jonka1, thank you. A spring is a good idea, someone else suggested a similar thing. I repaired it in part two but used a solid wire, I doubt it will last with the heating and cooling over time, a spring would have been a much better option, next time 🙂
The history of the radio and where it was built is fascinating. I was blessed to be able to work in Eindhoven for 18 months during the Y2K period for the Phillip's IT arm, Origin. Eindhoven just ozzed wartime history, and the celebrations of the liberation of Eindhoven on September 18th was just stunning. I'm watching this video with great interest.
Hi David, I agree, I would like to know more if anyone has more information. I will have to see if I can be in Eindhoven in September next time, thanks David 👍🙂
this one was a little tricky and needed lots of thought so no spare fun time, plus it is a repair for a customer rather than one bought in from the radio stall etc, (OK I know the wood case one for the chipper was a customer one too but this is a little more rare to find.
OMG Dave, this is next level. I am in shock after watching your MAGIC. This video illustrate there will be a next level waiting for us, we only need to dare. Amazing stuff💯
Nice job on the tuner grommets, creating a Franken-Tube test appliance, and the excellent reconstructive surgery on the ECH 3 tube. As always, your work is entertaining and informative. Looking forward to part 2. Thank you!
That was just great fun to watch, there's a lot more to story of the radio, it's cleaned and working, first class job, always a great watch cannot wait for part two,
As usual your meticulous work and endless patience are a marvel to see. The valve repair was unique and something I've never seen done before. Your willingness to explore and try new things makes your efforts a real pleasure to watch.
I have never been much into domestic radios, but you seem to find some very interesting ones! I'm thoroughly enjoying seeing all the work you put into your restorations!
That valve came out beautifully. Keep in mind, JB is also conductive. I found out the hard way when I used a bit of JB to pot a small circuit. Not as much as that conductive paint you put on but it is conductive. Every time you pried of those caps I was cringing waiting for the glass to crack. So far so good. 👍🏻
Hi Ellesmere, I didn't know about the JB being conductive, it wouldn't have got on the leads but I'll keep that in mind, thanks. I was waiting for the glass to break too 😄
Hi, I have used JB Weld before on a lot of sensitive electronics and never had any issues. At most, I would say that JB Weld might act bit as a capacitor. I tested JB Weld insulation properties at 1000V and found no leakage
@@michvod It does have a high metal content, especially the 24 hour type. Not sure about the quick set. I certainly won't argue with you about its level of conductivity. But my circuit behaved badly when covered in JB then normally when the JB was removed. It is just worth keeping in mind that it has a high metal content and could affect a circuit. At least in my experience.
@@ellesmerewildwood4858 You can measure it yourself :) I have a very sensitive leakage/insulation instrument that I use for checking the insulation of the capacitors and it showed JB Weld's insulation greater than 1000G ohms at 1000V. And I always use 24h one. Perhaps there is some inductance in the epoxy as there is metal in it, but it is so finely dispersed in resin that there is almost no chance of becoming conductive
Had to laugh Dave, now I know i'm not the only bloke who makes Frankenvalves to get things to work. It's quite a challenge isn't it. Good work as usual David and hope you and your family are all doing well. Thanks for the video.
Not much option here A Last, I searched high and low for a new valve, (I did get one eventually) but the Frankenvalve proved it worked, it has to be done sometimes. Thanks, we are all well and my pleasure 🙂
Amazing job with that valve repair, I've had many valve bases that were lose on the glass. I did once repair a valve top cap, but I think you're right in that it wouldn't survive very long. As valve bases go, I can't say I've ever see one quite like those before. A great job so far, look forward to the next part.
Hi Nigel, Indeed, lose bases are common and not normally a problem except for these spray shielded types. If you are in the US it seems you didn't get many Philips side contact tubes over there 🙂
@@DavidTipton101 I'm in the UK. I've worked on many Philips ( transistor ) radios, but not valve radios. I don't know what wire type is used coming out of the tops of valves, but solder doesn't stick!!! I rap a thin wire around what remains sticking out of the valve top and put a large amount of solder over it, it seems to hold.
@@nigelbrockwell6237 I haven't had a problem soldering to the wire on top and in fact the valve wire originally poked through a hole in the cap and was soldered on to it.
I really have no interest in radios (grams are my thing) but this captivated me, especially the valve repair! Top shelf stuff as always. Looking forward to part II.
Great job Dave, love seeing your work! Looking forward to part two! I use an automotive rear window defroster grid repair kit, it has fairly low resistance. Take care mate!
I am playing catch up on your fabulous videos. Saving the valves is right up my alley, I love this level of restoration. I however like to use Dow Corning 3145 or failing that some engine assembly rtv on bonding the tube to the base and grid caps. Both are permanent, but the rtv is removable with a knife. Epoxy is faster and not going to let go ever >>>>> Cheers
Hi Craig, thank you. Yeah I wondered about using RTV but was concerned there might be movement between the base and glass which would break contact with the shield. You are right, the glass is never coming away from the base 😄
Also a great job Dave and totally enjoyed the content. Well done and looking forward to part 2 and another one done and under your belt. I don't know of many teck that would be willing to spend the time and effort i your repairs. You certainly have a gift in repairing radios. Now take two beers out of petty cash, site down and relax.
Wow, once again another miracle..! How you manage to get those old valves back to life and replace various components is just fab...So entertaining and informative...Thanks again for sharing your expert knowledge..Hope you're keeping well..Ed..uk..👍😊
Hi David. Hope all is well with you health wise. Superb job as always. I was a bit worried about the glass breaking when you was messing with those valves, but as always you won in the end. That was a great idea with the franken valve and getting the correct voltages. I have to admire your dedication and patience in undertaking that intricate repair of that valve and reinstating the outer shield. Again thoroughly enjoyed watching. Cheers Chris.
Hi Chris, I am pretty good health wise thank you. The glass on these is remarkably tough considering what it is but I need to be careful. The Frankenvalve proved the set worked, I wondered if I could have hidden it in the original valve glass if needed, heat might be a problem. Cheers! 😀
I'm a tad late to this one, so I'm now halfway through a double dose of David (Part 2 coming up)...my initial reaction is that it was well worth the wait! Dave
Dave,great trouble shooting and your repairs are outstanding. Truly enjoy you videos. Have repaired many Philco radios with rubber covered wire. Take care.
@@DavidTipton101 He's more interested in being a mechanic, but he enjoyed the video and is looking forward to the next. Who knows, he may get interested in radio too.
great to see you back and love your methodical way of restoring . are you sure the folded paper under the valve wasnt an sos message? :) love your humour, " frankenvalve " :)
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Fantastic work Dave! You may have to branch out into vacuum tube repair, that was great! (Ok, "Valve" repair :^) Thanks for taking the time to share your projects with us.
Well done Dave I follow both you and Paul and your attention to detail is both remarkable and simplistic keep up the good work both of you.
Hi Paul, I thought it would be interesting to try, those tubes are hard to get. My pleasure, thanks Paul 🙂
You are definitely the ‘Valve Whisperer’. !
Haha... thanks Peter 😀
P-type tubes, rimlock tubes, AA5 radios with a filament transformer, radios with station ID's instead of frequencies, and brands I never hard of. Never see that here.
Dave, you are in a wonderfully odd part of the world. Great work as always.
Thanks Scott. There has been an odd collection of radio styles now that you mention it, I'm pretty luckily to have access to them all 🙂
Hi Dave,
I own the octal valve version of your Philips 206A. Although my Philips radio (I can’t remember it’s model number) has identical Bakelite cabinet, and a similar dial, the version you have was manufactured for the European market. Philips radios of around the time your radio was manufactured generally incorporated side contact valves, whereas those manufactured in, or for the Canadian, Australian, New Zealand, and British markets generally incorporated octal valves. The reason I mention this; when I was watching you repair the valves, which I commend you for your dexterity and ingenuity, I thought if you was unable to get hold of the required replacement side contact valves at reasonable prices, you could change the valve bases, and convert the radio to octal valves (should you have any of those valves, and bases in your stash, as most valves are now pricey).
You will find that particular model of Philips radio not presents a very pleasing tone, they are usually very sensitive, especially when aligned to specifications. I eagerly await the next upload: I know it will superb.
Cheers my friend, Phil.
Hi Phil, that is interesting, I didn't know they made an octal version 206A although I know there are octal versions of the valves. I considered replacing the P bases with octals but it was to be a last resort as the owner wanted to keep it original. I had even considered removing the centre of the P base socket and installing an octal socket below so it still looked like a P base or even using a novel valve and housing it in a hollowed out P base glass envelope. We managed to get NOS valves where needed in the end, one from the UK. The radio sounded pretty good with the Rola speaker in it and as you say picked up stations I have difficulty receiving. Thanks as always Phil 👍🙂
Now I know where to send all my Valves that need repair. Beautiful work David. 73 Joe
Thanks Joe, I think I would go nuts after a few repairs 😀
Dear Dave, it's incredible, you combine so many professions and skills: Electrical Engineer, Tube Specialist, Cabinet Maker, Plastic Worker, Painter, Label Reconstructor, Image and Video Editor, Metal Worker, Lathe and Sandblasting Expert.... I am absolutely thrilled! I would have to hire at least more than ten people for all these jobs....
Many thanks for your efforts to document all these work processes with perfect videos and sound, warm greetings from Munich
Hi Michael in Munich, thank you, I'll 'have a go' at most things, sometimes it works, sometimes not but it keeps me busy in retirement. Thank you for your support Michael, cheers 🙂
Excellent going there Dave, dauntless :-) That radio is almost 100% post war build. See the "A.F.N." on the bottom of the dial? Means "American Forces Network" They started up just as the war was ending and in the beginning they were working from teporary locations on temporary Frequencies till they later permanently opened up in Berlin, Munich, Frankfurt etc when Germany was fully occupied. Also, if this radio was made in Nazi occupied Holland, the layouter of that dial depicting the position of the enemy radio station would have been instantly locked up and no dial made like that. The positions of the other stations hint that this is where they were before the Copenhagen wave plan came into effect 1948 and frquencies were reallocated. My guess: Late 1945 to 1947
Interestingly the City of Lahti in Finland is spelt wrong.
The different voltage settings is pretty standard for 40s Europe, in Germany there was 110v in some city suburbs well into the 50s.
Strange radio methinks....
Resocketing valves is big fun, yes? When I started resocketing 6E5s to make EM34 substitutes I also lengthened the wires, but later I took a spare valve base and cut out large openings in the side in order to position the wires with tweezers into the pin openings. If one then twists the valve back and forth very slightly and then withdraws it from this template base the wires will stay in exactly that position to then glue it into the original base and solder up. The best glue i came up with after a couple of errors is a non acedic, non conductive silicone called "Reinzosil" (not "Reinzosil-t" !!) It is a black gasket maker which goes up to 300 Celsius and sticks to glass really well.
Cheers from Germany
Ahh, interesting Blitz, the owner believed it was 1942 and I think it says that on Radio Museum, I wondered why the occupied Philips factory was still producing domestic radios during the war, thanks for picking that up. Others have also said the voltages were different across Europe.
That's a good idea with the valve socket, I'll keep that in mind. We don't have Reinzosil here but there will be an alternative, I find some Reinzosil on Oz eBay for only $14.25 but the shipping is $1,320.00 😏
Thank Blitz, you're a wealth of information, take care 🙂
@@DavidTipton101 I think that 473 number on the back might mean March 1947 - any other websites with the model on to compare numbers and serial numbers ? However even if Holland was occupied the intention would have been for the greater Germany to have the long term control of the low countries and thus radios for the populaces probably not discouraged, as they would need to hear broadcasts from Germany or by the German forces ?
I am in awe again. 99.9999% of us would give up in less than 5 minutes on something like this.
Brilliant work! Can't wait for part 2.
Thanks Sir David!!
I always wanted a Knighthood 😀 Thanks John.
@@DavidTipton101 We are in awe of your presence Sir David!!
@@DavidTipton101 Arise Sir David.
@@johnwelch557 Haha... 👍😄
@@jonka1 Can't... legs are shot 🙂
Quite impressed by the valve restoration work. This old girl has seen some action back in the day. I think you
got it well in hand and it should be up and running in no time. Looking forward to part 2. Take care Dave.
HI Steve, thank you. It will look good and go on for a bit longer and more history. Take care 👍🙂
How fitting that Eye of the Tiger started playing when you turned it on after you took the amp grid cap off! Great work, can't wait for the next part!
Haha... good point ZC&H 😀 Thanks 👍
Crickey Dave, your talent never ceases to amaze me......hope you have been well.
Thanks Harb. I'm on the improve thank you 👍🙂
Wow! I have no interest in repairing radios other than watching you work your magic. I found myself holding my breath while you were taking that valve apart. Fabulously! Is there nothing you can’t do? Most impressed here in Tassie.
Hi Kim in beautiful Tassie. I glad you enjoyed it even without an interest in radios, I'm not so good at embroidery. Thanks Kim 😀
An excellent restoration, Dave, as always! And the trick on reparing the tube with the disconnected shield was just mindblowing! Cheers.
Thank you Dmitri 🙂
Very enjoyable to see you fixing valves Dave!
I hope you're fully recovered from your medical ordeal!
Hi Daniel, thank you. I'm recovering very well thanks 👍🙂
A master class as always, Dave! Hope you’re doing well. -Jeff
Thank you Jeff. I'm pretty good thanks 👍🙂
It's morning in the USA. A fresh pot of coffee and Dave's Radio Adventures. Life is good. Thanks, Dave!
Haha... thanks Mark 👍😀
Hello David, Fascinating piece of history you have there. To imagine surviving the occupation and being active during that time. Those side contact sockets are something I have never seen.
I have repaired many tubes with broken grid cap wires over the years. Once I had the wire soldered to the nib, I put epoxy to stabilize it, then epoxied the cap on. As long as no one plays with it
they usually lasted the life of the tube. Chuckled as you struggled with getting the wires back in the tube base. Been there many times. Brought back memories. Still have a small container of conductive paint somewhere in a safe place. Now I just need to remember where safe is. Looking forward to the next installment.
Hello Vern, there has been some doubt cast over it's build date as it has AFN on the dial, AFN is the US military radio broadcast set up towards the end of the war but it adds to the mystery. It seems the side contact tubes didn't make it to the US in any number, that could be a good thing. I have done the same repair to grid caps and I do it to this one in part 2 but I'm not confident with it. I modified my wire retrieval system, it's a bit easier now. Thanks Vern 🙂
The signal tracing equipment and the oscilloscope looks handy! Maybe later on for me. 😀
I am only doing light vintage radio restoration at the moment on reasonable working condition vintage radio purchases, so this restoration video is fantastic to watch and a good guide to positive outcomes in my own future work. Thank you very much!
I like the wiring coils and solder joining. I am just using hooks.
I am using Frog Tape from Bunnings on paint jobs. 👍🙋♂️
Have a great weekend David!!!
The signal tracer is very handy, I only just assembled it from a kit I bought years ago but it works well. I try and remove the old lead and solder to the original terminal but sometimes it can't be done. J hooks are frowned upon by some but they work and are easy, I often wrap the new components lead into a spiral and solder it to the stub lead left from the old component. There are a number or clear edge tapes available now, Frog works well. Thanks Peter, avagoodweekend 🙂
Thank you for another excellent video Dave. One little tip I learned a long time ago from someone wise was about repairing broken grid cap wires. Valve envelope glass is relatively soft and with care it an be cut with a fine file. This method can relieve the glass seal to expose enough wire to effect a reasonably good solder joint onto a longer wire which is fed though the end cap. Over the years I have brought back a number of valves this way that were otherwise destined for the bin. Thanks again and best wishes.
Hi Arthur, thank you, it's my pleasure. In part two I reattach the cap using the method you describe, I am not convinced it is a permanent repair due to the tiny amount of wire I uncovered however and search for a replacement valve. Thanks for the tip 👍🙂
P valves and a spring solder sucker, you sir have the patience of a clock making Saint. Anything that I've ever encountered with P valves has always ended up in the circular file. You have my complete admiration.
Haha... thanks Brother Spock 👍😀
it's raining here and having a hot cup of coffee ☕ and watching your video
Hi خالد عطايا, that sounds nice, thanks 🙂
Another great episode Dave! Loved the frankenvalve! 🤣 I had a look in my collection, but sorry no EBL1's there..
Hi Chris, the EBL1 is impossible to find in Oz, I eventually found the last one I think. Thanks for looking 👍🙂
Hi Dave, congratulations ! These pre-war and wartime Philips are as fascinating and advanced as they are a nightmare to restore now: wiring, grommets, wax caps, electrolytics, bowden cables ... I have an 890A and an 855A, both from Czechosvovakia, waiting for restoration since the nineties, but I don't dare starting up ...
daves vids can give you the inspiration. do a little each day, then after many days , all done !
I have 890A too, and it really is a nightmare to restore. Very complex chassis.
@@tonskulus Thank you for your answer: your link will be a reference for me when I will start !
Thank you Marco, I hope you can restore yours one day 🙂
You know your stuff David, you took radio repair to a whole new level, besides the chassis, there didn't seem to have anything else working lol Once again your video is both impressive and informative! Cheers Mate
Hi patprop74, thank you. it needed a bit of work, more than I had anticipated really but it will come out pretty nice and be saved for another day 🙂
A definite candidate for the "braver than I, Charlie Brown award"! Those valve repairs, wow! Can't wait for part 2!!
Hi Tim, braver is one word for it, I can think of others 😄 Part 2 next week, thanks Tim.
@@DavidTipton101 BTW, Impressing Paul Carson, WOW! (not an easy task) Stay well!!
@@AMStationEngineer Paul very kindly drops in to my channel most videos 🙂
My goodness Dave! Just when I think I've seen all your myriad talents, you surprise me yet again! Unbelievable repairs! From radios to phonographs to valves! Bravo!
Thank you Quantum Leap 🙂
Repairing a valve requires steady nerves and hands, but as you mentioned it is about finding methods for the various problems you are faced with. Always a pleasure to follow your escapades. :-) Thanks for showing us.
It's all about ways to repair these old sets while keeping them original, others have come up with some brilliant ideas too. Thanks W Rex 🙂
Greetings from the birthplace of this radio! Philips is was huge in Eindhoven, and although the company itself is no longer there, its legacy is everywhere and so are its buildings.
Hi Rua, welcome. I have heard the Philips was a large concern in Eindhoven, Unfortunately gone but I believe there is a Philips museum in Eindhoven 🙂
Good heavens, this man has the patience of a Saint! Great stuff.
Haha... thanks Phil 😄
Welcome back Mr. Tipton" Hope your doing great . Got my cup of tea and cinnamon role, ready to be educated once again with your knowledge and humor ! "CHEERS"
I can't remember the last time I had a cinnamon roll, I hope you enjoyed it. Thanks Kevin 😋
Thanks David! Stunning repair of that tube, just to see if you can.... Its brighten up this rainy day.
Hi Leif, it's good to know, those side contact valves are difficult to get here 🙂
Hi David Hope you are well and all your treatment is completed now.
Incredible patience working on the “wobbly” valve and an outstanding result. I have done a couple of Philips radios and they can be very fiddly to work on but well within your skill set.
Breaking news my dear wife has turned over the small bedroom to me for a radio room so no more freezing cold shed for my restorations! Spent several weeks redecorating and moving all my stuff in. Look forward to my next “warm” restoration.
All the best
Lynton.
Hi Lyndon, I am so sorry, I answered this comment last week but it's still here, I may have missed pressing send? I am well thank you, my treatment is completed and I am now recovering from it. The 'wobbly' valve had to be done, I have a number of these valves and they are mostly loose, it's good to know it can be fixed and look somewhat normal. Ahh bless your wife, you will be much warmer in there than cuddling up to a kero lamp. All the best Lynton 🙂
The work you did on that tube shield was a joy to watch. It looks totally original. You never cease to amaze me with your inventive repair methods. Can't wait for part 2.
Thanks Ian, it was a bit of an experiment to see if it could be done 🙂
Brilliant work Dave. The screen repair with the conductive paint I thought was good and at the point when you said I'll take it out to the workshop I thought he is not going to match the red paint up is he? And yes, you didn't disappoint. Even to the stage of retaining the patina by roughing it up. Pure genius. The best restoration channel on the web, surely! Keep 'em coming!
Hi Martin, thank you. I couldn't leave it with a silver band around it, I have painted them before and properly 'aged' they look the real deal 🙂 Thanks.
Dave your creative workarounds for what seem like insurmountable problems are inspiring.
Hi Mack, thank you, I try 🙂
Good morning David. See you on part two.
Good Morning Terry, see ya then 👍🙂
Very interesting video of a very interesting radio. I'm looking forward to part 2.
Thanks Tim, it's very unusual, it may be the only one here 🙂
Always a joy to watch one of your videos, Dave. Your attention to detail is awesome and your techniques are fearless. An inspiration to us all.
Haha... that's me, all guns blazing 😀 Thanks videolabguy 🙂
Bloody brilliant repair with the valve Dave, those side or P contact valves are increasingly difficult to source. Wish I had thought of high temperature engine paint excellent as always and I learned a new technique thanks!
Thanks Alan, it is near impossible to get the more obscure ones like in this set, overseas is about the only option sometimes 🙂
Hi, those voltage settings won't need to imply exports to overseas. The common European grid and the 220(later 230)V AC default was established way after WWII, so before the war there were quite a mix of standards. 110V DC, 150V DC, 220V DC, 110V AC, 127V AC, 160V AC, 220V AC to name just a few "common" ones. I once got in possession of an old slide projector which used to be owned by the local school district in the 40s and 50s. Mounted on a board right beside it was a big, 150W variable resistor and a list of local villages (all within 25km) and all the different voltages used there... mostly 110V DC, 110V AC and 220V AC but I think there was a 150V DC one mixed in somewhere.
Thanks for explaining that CRK Retro Tech, I didn't know that Europe had different voltages early on but it makes sense. Your projector story was good 🙂
Great! That Frankenvalve was very clever but the fixing of that another tube deserves an Oscar! And the fixing of the output tube also was a good one! The grill cloth deserves a brand new one from Corrien Maas (since the radio is from the Netherlands...). Thanks. Alvaro.
Hi Alvaro, thank you. A cloth from Corrien would be good but it over $100au to get it to Australia, it's a pity. Cheers 🙂
I was on the edge of my seat when you were threading the wires back into the valve, am i normal ? Great video and camera work once again Dave, can’t wait for part 2 now. Be well, stay safe and god bless 🙂
Hi Raymond, it was a bit edge of seat, I was waiting for the trace wire to break off 😀 Thanks Raymond.
@@DavidTipton101 No kidding Dave, with all the war content as intro, it felt like you were defusing a bomb or something 🙂 but i found the idea of soldering longer wires just brillant. I didn’t know one could ‘’repair’’ valves i always thought these things were super fragile, had to be air tight and once they were done you had no choice but to toss them out and get new ones, which reminds me of when my father would send me to the drug store to test some of our tv set's tubes. Yeah i am old enough to have watched tv in black & white...
@@raymondmenard5444 Haha... it wasn't quite as bad as defusing a bomb, they are pretty tough really. We had valve testers in Tandy I think, Tandy was Radio Shack in Australia. I'm old enough we didn't have TV till I was seven but I would curl up in front of the radio after dinner before that.
David, you are taking radio restoration to a new level. Most of us would have just binned that valve and got a replacement, but you carry out major surgery, bringing it back from the brink! Totally amazing! Eager for part II. Cheers, Jim L
Hi Jim, I agree a new valve would have been ideal but there were none and any used ones suffer the same problem. Now I know it can be done I can hopefully recycle a few more of a limited commodity. Thanks Jim, part 2 on Friday, cheers! 🙂
Always a pleasure to see your unique and resourceful methods put to work. Thanks for the informed trip into a piece that is older than I by a decade! Can't wait to see what you come up with to finish this one off. Brilliant work!
Hi Tim, thank you. It's older than me by about the same amount but in better condition 😀
Good evening David Sir.Very precise work to restore the valve ECH J 69 IN original condition.Hats off Sir.👌👌👌👌👍
Hi Rakesh, thank you 😀
That is a real challenge to rebuild that radio especially when it 81 yrs old but I can see you are up to the task as usual. The grommet idea for the tuning capacitor was a great idea. I do hope your health is getting better every day David. I pray for your healing every day. Thanks for the great video.
HI LUCKYLARRY, Thank you. I bought a box of mixed grommets on eBay, very handy. I am good health wise, the next few years will tell how successful the procedures were. Thanks 🙂
Thanks David, looking forward to part two. Was holding my breath when you were taking the top cap off the output valve.....
You and me both 🙂 thanks owwcam.
I love to see a cunning plan come together. I would lack the courage to try the things you try, but they usually work for you.
Hi Wayne, I didn't really know what would happen to be honest but I got it back together. Good info for the future. Thanks Wayne 🙂
Master repair. I especially liked me the repair of old radio lamps. I have a few of these isolated ones, and it's good to know they're fixable.
Thanks Robert, The repair worked OK 🙂
David I really enjoyed this. I could not believe it when you did the repairs to the valve... and like all your work the end result was amazing. All I could think of while watching you was how long I would have retained my temper while working with those thin wires :) I hope you continue in good health and that the treatment is working for you. God bless you and your family.
Hi Kenneth, The valve repair was interesting, I wasn't sure if it would work. As for the wires, I put a radio on (I have one or two) and do one wire after another, I find it pleasant although I'm happy when it's finished. Thanks Kenneth, the treatment is over and I am slowly getting back to normal. All the best to you also 👍🙂
Dave . ..you are just fantastic. Love watching you at work. A real Pro.
Thank you Comforter Spirit, I try my best 👍🙂
Dave re seating valves is an Art onto itself . Hooking up the outside shield put it over the top! Fascinating to watch.
Thanks Keith 🙂
Great seeing a radio from here in the Netherlands from the war. There’s a museum in Texel here where they have Phillips radios from those days. Very innovative how you repaired that valve. Thanks for sharing this one, as well as others. Looking forward to the next chapter.
Hi Rocco, we visited the Netherlands a few years ago and didn't go to any radio museums and there was one not far from where we stayed, very disappointed. Thanks Rocco 🙂
Always enjoyable to watch you work your magic on these vintage radios!
Thank you Volktales 🙂
your (almost invisible) work on the ECH3 really fascinated me 👍👍👍
Thanks Bernd, it looked good in the set when it was finished 🙂
Hi, that was pure genius David, many thanks from Nr Liverpool UK.
Thanks Chris, my pleasure 🙂
Thanks Dave, you're a master of radio repair, Cheers Mate!! 🍻🍻
Hi Thorn, thank you... Cheers! 🙂
What an incredible show. I can not wait for part 2. Thanks, for all you do.
Thank you Mr Bond. Part 2 next week, my pleasure 🙂
Wow, radio surgery!
Great work, Dave. Looking forward to the next installment of Dave"s Radio Adventures.
Thanks Rick E, part two on Friday 🙂
Wow! Nice job on that valve. I’m sure you could grind a bit of glass off that output valve and get a better connection.
It looks like being a nice wireless when it’s finished.
Hi Don, thanks. I attempt to salvage it next week. It's quite a handsome radio I agree 🙂
Great work Dave.
What I love about your videos is that we get to see mistakes and all. Followed by the trace and fix stage. It's really quite helpful.
Thanks for seeing the positive side of my mistakes 1974UTuber. It is good to trace out the fault though 🙂
@@DavidTipton101 Your videos give us hope. Nothing worse than watching someone fix it perfectly then thinking "I could never do that" sure you mixed up a wire or 2 but without a catastrophic failure or Earth shattering KABOOM.
You and Buzz do the best repairs because you show the faults and how to rectify them. But especially you because Australia and the ever frightening 240 Volts
@@1974UTuber Haha... 120V will surely kill you but with 240 it's a bit quicker. I love watching Buzz too, so laid back 😀
Amazing work, Dave! Most people wouldn't even attempt to repair a vacuum tube but you made it look easy! You even restored the conductive coating AND the red finish on top of that! This is another one for my "Keep for Future Reference" notebook. BTW, despite the popular belief that JB Weld contains 5-10 percent iron filings and is therefore conductive, most websites agree that it is not and classify it as an insulator. Your use of conductive paint is therefore brilliant.
Hi SY, thank you. The loss of adhesion on these shielded valves is a common problem so a good fix was in order, it was pretty straight forward once I worked out how to do it, it will get easier if I need to do it again. I did wonder if the claim the JB Weld was conductive is accurate, it does contain metal I think but the chance of them making contact is unlikely. Thanks for your input on the matter 🙂
G'day from Melbourne! Great video as always, I hope you're in good health - looking forward to part 2.
Hi Mark in Melbourne, thank you... till next week 🙂
Lovely work as always David. One way I use to reconnect to the broken off top connectors on valves is to use a tiny spring soldered inside the cap to press onto the stub of the wire in the glass and then bond the cap on Sometimes the stub will take a blob of solder then you can connect a fine strand of wire which will not create any mechanical stress when run out through the top cap.
Hi jonka1, thank you. A spring is a good idea, someone else suggested a similar thing. I repaired it in part two but used a solid wire, I doubt it will last with the heating and cooling over time, a spring would have been a much better option, next time 🙂
The history of the radio and where it was built is fascinating. I was blessed to be able to work in Eindhoven for 18 months during the Y2K period for the Phillip's IT arm, Origin. Eindhoven just ozzed wartime history, and the celebrations of the liberation of Eindhoven on September 18th was just stunning. I'm watching this video with great interest.
Hi David, I agree, I would like to know more if anyone has more information. I will have to see if I can be in Eindhoven in September next time, thanks David 👍🙂
Another well done repair work, Dave. The only thing missing is the humor you inject occasionally. Looking forward to part 2!
this one was a little tricky and needed lots of thought so no spare fun time, plus it is a repair for a customer rather than one bought in from the radio stall etc, (OK I know the wood case one for the chipper was a customer one too but this is a little more rare to find.
I think I was too scared to inject any humour zorka4098, there might be a bit in part 2 😉
Dave, thanks for showing how to solder. I like seeing that kinda thing as someone who is getting I to electronics projects.
I only showed a little bit but I'm glad it helped. Good luck with your electronic projects Mr Ogden 👍🙂
OMG Dave, this is next level. I am in shock after watching your MAGIC.
This video illustrate there will be a next level waiting for us, we only need to dare. Amazing stuff💯
Thank you Khaled, it's fun to experiment 🙂
Glasslinger Ron would be proud of you Dave.
Haha... do you think so 😀 Thanks Gerry.
David, you are quite remarkable. Well done. That was fun. Thank you.
Thank you Stephen 🙂
Nice job on the tuner grommets, creating a Franken-Tube test appliance, and the excellent reconstructive surgery on the ECH 3 tube. As always, your work is entertaining and informative. Looking forward to part 2. Thank you!
Thanks Steve, part 2 next week 👍🙂
Way more peril than usual. Fantastic valve surgery!
Hi Kevin, haha... thanks 😀
Now thats a show that you can learn from .thank you greetz from holland
Hi Twan in Holland, thank you 🙂
That was just great fun to watch, there's a lot more to story of the radio, it's cleaned and working, first class job, always a great watch cannot wait for part two,
Thanks Martin, glad you enjoyed it, part 2 next week 🙂
As usual your meticulous work and endless patience are a marvel to see. The valve repair was unique and something I've never seen done before. Your willingness to explore and try new things makes your efforts a real pleasure to watch.
Thank you lakrfan 49, I'm happy you enjoyed it. I have never attempted to repair that style of valve before but handy to know for the future 🙂
I have never been much into domestic radios, but you seem to find some very interesting ones! I'm thoroughly enjoying seeing all the work you put into your restorations!
Thank you Eric 🙂
@@DavidTipton101 The effort you put into rebuilding the tubes was impressive! Very nice work!
That valve came out beautifully. Keep in mind, JB is also conductive. I found out the hard way when I used a bit of JB to pot a small circuit. Not as much as that conductive paint you put on but it is conductive. Every time you pried of those caps I was cringing waiting for the glass to crack. So far so good. 👍🏻
Hi Ellesmere, I didn't know about the JB being conductive, it wouldn't have got on the leads but I'll keep that in mind, thanks. I was waiting for the glass to break too 😄
Hi, I have used JB Weld before on a lot of sensitive electronics and never had any issues. At most, I would say that JB Weld might act bit as a capacitor. I tested JB Weld insulation properties at 1000V and found no leakage
@@michvod It does have a high metal content, especially the 24 hour type. Not sure about the quick set. I certainly won't argue with you about its level of conductivity. But my circuit behaved badly when covered in JB then normally when the JB was removed. It is just worth keeping in mind that it has a high metal content and could affect a circuit. At least in my experience.
@@ellesmerewildwood4858 You can measure it yourself :) I have a very sensitive leakage/insulation instrument that I use for checking the insulation of the capacitors and it showed JB Weld's insulation greater than 1000G ohms at 1000V. And I always use 24h one. Perhaps there is some inductance in the epoxy as there is metal in it, but it is so finely dispersed in resin that there is almost no chance of becoming conductive
Had to laugh Dave, now I know i'm not the only bloke who makes Frankenvalves to get things to work. It's quite a challenge isn't it. Good work as usual David and hope you and your family are all doing well. Thanks for the video.
Not much option here A Last, I searched high and low for a new valve, (I did get one eventually) but the Frankenvalve proved it worked, it has to be done sometimes. Thanks, we are all well and my pleasure 🙂
Thanks David! Always look forward to seeing you work!!!
Thank you Dave 🙂
Amazing job with that valve repair, I've had many valve bases that were lose on the glass. I did once repair a valve top cap, but I think you're right in that it wouldn't survive very long. As valve bases go, I can't say I've ever see one quite like those before. A great job so far, look forward to the next part.
Hi Nigel, Indeed, lose bases are common and not normally a problem except for these spray shielded types. If you are in the US it seems you didn't get many Philips side contact tubes over there 🙂
@@DavidTipton101 I'm in the UK. I've worked on many Philips ( transistor ) radios, but not valve radios. I don't know what wire type is used coming out of the tops of valves, but solder doesn't stick!!! I rap a thin wire around what remains sticking out of the valve top and put a large amount of solder over it, it seems to hold.
@@nigelbrockwell6237 I haven't had a problem soldering to the wire on top and in fact the valve wire originally poked through a hole in the cap and was soldered on to it.
I really have no interest in radios (grams are my thing) but this captivated me, especially the valve repair! Top shelf stuff as always. Looking forward to part II.
Grams have radios 😉 Thanks Dale, cheers!
Great job on the tube repair. Really cool how you soldered the fine wires to pull the others thru. Very clever. 73 de KB7ICI....Bill.
Thanks Bill, I should have been a surgeon 🧑⚕️😄
Wonderful David! Looking forward to Part 2. John
Thank you John 🙂
Great job Dave, love seeing your work! Looking forward to part two! I use an automotive rear window defroster grid repair kit, it has fairly low resistance. Take care mate!
Hi James, That was what this silver varnish had listed as uses. Heater repair kits might be a bit thicker which would help. Thanks, take care 👍😀
I am playing catch up on your fabulous videos. Saving the valves is right up my alley, I love this level of restoration. I however like to use Dow Corning 3145 or failing that some engine assembly rtv on bonding the tube to the base and grid caps. Both are permanent, but the rtv is removable with a knife. Epoxy is faster and not going to let go ever >>>>> Cheers
Hi Craig, thank you. Yeah I wondered about using RTV but was concerned there might be movement between the base and glass which would break contact with the shield. You are right, the glass is never coming away from the base 😄
Also a great job Dave and totally enjoyed the content. Well done and looking forward to part 2 and another one done and under your belt. I don't know of many teck that would be willing to spend the time and effort i your repairs. You certainly have a gift in repairing radios. Now take two beers out of petty cash, site down and relax.
Hi Stephen, thank you and will do 🍺😄
Wow, once again another miracle..! How you manage to get those old valves back to life and replace various components is just fab...So entertaining and informative...Thanks again for sharing your expert knowledge..Hope you're keeping well..Ed..uk..👍😊
Hi Ed in the UK, thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it. I'm going OK health wise Ed, thank you 🙂
@@DavidTipton101 Enjoyed it..!! It's a treat to watch..👍
Hi David. Hope all is well with you health wise. Superb job as always. I was a bit worried about the glass breaking when you was messing with those valves, but as always you won in the end. That was a great idea with the franken valve and getting the correct voltages. I have to admire your dedication and patience in undertaking that intricate repair of that valve and reinstating the outer shield. Again thoroughly enjoyed watching. Cheers Chris.
Hi Chris, I am pretty good health wise thank you. The glass on these is remarkably tough considering what it is but I need to be careful. The Frankenvalve proved the set worked, I wondered if I could have hidden it in the original valve glass if needed, heat might be a problem. Cheers! 😀
Great work on this old radio Dave! I have never seen that style of tube socket before. Really good troubleshooting the issues too!
Hi Gregg, thank you. Luckily those tubes didn't make it to the States it seems. That's me, create a fault then troubleshoot it 😄
I'm a tad late to this one, so I'm now halfway through a double dose of David (Part 2 coming up)...my initial reaction is that it was well worth the wait!
Dave
Thanks Dave, I hope you enjoy part 2 👍🙂
@@DavidTipton101 I absolutely did mate!
Dave,great trouble shooting and your repairs are outstanding. Truly enjoy you videos. Have repaired many Philco radios with rubber covered wire. Take care.
Hi Dennis, thank you. When I flip a radio over and see rubber covered wire I cancel my appointments for a week 😀
Perfect start to my weekend, watching your amazing work! Thank you!
Thank yo Mr Coomber 🙂
Another great video from David Tipton down under. I got my son to watch this one
Thank you clasicradiolover, I hope your son is a budding radio enthusiast 👍🙂
@@DavidTipton101 He's more interested in being a mechanic, but he enjoyed the video and is looking forward to the next. Who knows, he may get interested in radio too.
@@clasicradiolover Ahh... good on him 👍🙂
That valve repair was interesting to watch!!!
Thank you Alex 🙂
Amazing diagnostics. I learn so much watching your channel.
Thanks Johnny 🙂
David Tipton what cool 206A Phillips mw shortwave radio Receiver from the 1940s
Thank you Greg 👍🙂
New year and David accelerates his speaking and repairing speed.
Haha... thanks Winfried Kostka 😄
Valve repair. Amazing. Thanks Dave.
Thank you Mark 🙂
David, as always, your amazing !!!
Thank you tube-dude, cheers 🙂
great to see you back and love your methodical way of restoring . are you sure the folded paper under the valve wasnt an sos message? :) love your humour, " frankenvalve " :)
Hi Leo, I didn't look at the paper, I didn't think to 🙄 Haha... thanks Leo 🙂