I found a little "coin" with a pretty raised design that I'd like to turn into watch. Your expertise is admirable, I won't come anywhere close to it. But it is inspiring - keep up the good work.
I've done a bit of pad printing, put some clear sellotape over the piece while getting correct placement, then just peel off before going in with yr good print.
hi there, it's not wooden, it's acrylic with a layer of paper on top (prevents reflection when the laser is cutting). I get them custom cut if needed, not going to find on google.
Really enjoyed the series, many thanks! The final product here was fantastic. I was trying to figure out why your printer does not always align exactly where you think it should and I think the solution may be in the pad. The pad is the only “non machined” piece connected. What I mean is that you showed in an earlier video that the bracket you use to connect the pad to the printer is connected by three wood screws you drilled in. There is a possibility that it is not exactly centered, and as such every time you remove the printing pad and put it back on again, if it is not exactly rotated to the same position it was previously when you reconnect it, then the slight offset would be in a different spot each time. To test this hypothesis, next time you are printing and need to clean the printing pad, try cleaning it without removing it and see if you get more consistent results. This of course is just a guess from an amateur who has never used one of these so I may be completely wrong :)
Hey! Glad you enjoyed the series. The pad mount is connected via screws, but I very rarely take them off. The pad itself is a little squishy, which might be adding to the slight variations some. I do have several different pads. But almost all of the components on the machine are moveable, and once set where desired, the results are fairly good. What can lead to differences between strikes is the amount of pressure, as the amount of pressure can move some of the parts in unwanted ways if they don't have enough support (like the surface the dial mount is sitting on) or aren't quite tight enough. I also don't have the entire machine bolted to the table, and I really should. But for a home setup, I get by :) Thanks for watching!
Do you have a video showing just the equipment like ink cup etc? I am fascinated by this facet of watchmaking Only thing I like more is really good textured plates and indices.
Great video and I have really enjoyed the others watched so far. I'm researching with a plan to prototype a dial design that can be individually customised to a client's specification with colour and other finishes. Thanks for all your hints and tips!
several very light layers of a white primer and spray paint. Spray very light layer, let dry two or three minutes, then spray next layer. Repeat for as many layers you want…usually I do 4-6 light layers.
I was wondering if you could tell me what equipment I would need and raw material to make three-dimensional Chrome logos for watches I saw one of your videos on it. Something about a laser etcher? I will do some more research but I was curious I would like to produce my own logos and fonts in three dimensional
Thanks for all the work to show us this. I have an accurate CNC lathe so I can engrave the part you have laser cut. What's the depth the laser cuts to? Thanks.
Esslinger has some, but i usually buy dials from ebay ofrei and other places and strip them down if necessary. I also get dial blanks custom cut with a laser.
Hi Brian ... great videos, I subscribed. I am a watchmaker with my own RUclips channel and I am creating my own line of watches ... I am trying to decide whether or not to outsource the dial printing and the issue is all about quality. The dials in your video do not have very small font. I need to get crisp lettering at a very small font (Submariner style under the hands ... that kind of thing). Do you think with some practice I can achieve that kind of result with the same outfit and process you show here. Richard
hi Richard! I have no idea how I missed this comment a couple years ago. I’ve seen your channel, quite successful. For getting really fine printing automated/computerized pad printing would really be the way to go. Can you achieve fine detail with a manual pad printer, yes, but it is hard!
Can you recommend a method for cutting a day date window in an existing dial? I don’t want an opening that looks like it was cut with a chainsaw. Thanks.
Hello! Glad you are enjoying the series. I have not done any sort of electroplating, perhaps it's something I'll explore at some point. You mentioned brass blanks...did you have a particular metal in mind for the surface?
Watch Complications see I may be mistaken but I thought it was through electroplating that professional dial makers color their (often times brass) dials. I am looking to build a couple of my own watch and want to make a cream dial watch and a black dial.
@@Splitt2 electroplating can be used to alter the surface color, I just haven't messed around with it myself yet. I may at some point though...but from what I've read it takes a lot of testing and experience to get it right.
I have a series of videos that show an example way of doing that. ruclips.net/video/hmEzygD6cRM/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/2RLe2BeiD_s/видео.html are a good start.
I got the printer on ebay for around $300. You can search for pad printers with sealed ink cup and you'll see some similar listings. I waited about 6 months until I saw it at a price I liked. Looks like the ones listed now are higher in cost again. As for the cliche, are you asking about just buying blanks? Because the blanks you'd want to get will depend on the printer you get.
several light layers of white primer applied 2 or 3 minutes apart. sometimes a layer of paint on top. the inks for the printing are a multi purpose ink for pad printing.
Thanks for the videos. Very helpful. Would you mind sharing the company that engraved your plates? I know you mentioned finding someone local, but I’m not having much luck with that, and would find it easier to work with someone with experience in engraving the plates. please DM if you’re not comfortable posting.
That's a very broad question. I'd say find a 39mm case via eBay or a watch parts distributor, see what movement(s) it's made for and if that would work for you. If not, then you'll have to decide on a movement for whatever complications you're wanting and either find a case that fits it or have a custom holder made to fit the chosen movement to a case you do like.
@@WatchComplications thank you for your reply. I actually searched 39mm case which returns the total diameter of case as 39mm and not the dial fit. But I'll still look for it. Could you recommend a no day/date (only time) movement for a 0.8mm thick dial? I'll figure it out after that as you suggested..but I'm unable to find a mechanical movement that will fit 0.8mm dial.
Dial thickness has nothing to do with whether it will fit a movement, all that matters in that regard is if the dial feet are in the right location. If you want a movement with a stem height that is correct for the case given the thicker dial the result will probably be a thicker case and custom holder. Depending on the case, you would need a dial diameter that fits the case.
There is no specific model number. If you google sealed ink cup pad printer or pad printing machine, you'll see them on sites like eBay and Amazon. The plates I have etched with a laser at a shop close to me. The depth is somewhere between 20-24 microns.
Good you do laser etching. But Swiss people who did etching with perfection that old technique is getting lost. My dad use to-do. First making a calligraphy master then positive film with that wooden camera and enlarger. Followed by photo emulsion method.
sometimes I get dials with a white or black base already applied, sometimes I paint blanks myself using standard primers and paints from Rustoleum and Krylon
the business I used to do the etching had some plates from a previous customer/order so we used those. but if you google "steel plates" or "steel cliches" for pad printing you will find places that sell them
@@WatchComplications I'm still learning how to properly measure the original dial fonts and markers . so that it becomes very similar to the original when i stamp on it .I have tried many times but failed. would you tell me the tips?
Silicon pads on pad printers can mold around various shapes. The shape and size of the pad is important for what item being printed. One issue beyond the pad would be having a similarly domed fixture under the dial so that when the pad is pressed against the domed dial, it doesn't bend the dial.
It's laser etched. And you can't just buy them, at least not as simply as that sounds. You have to create the design to be etched in a vector format, buy the appropriate plates for the printer and the laser, and work with a manufacturer or laser shop to do the work. I would recommend finding someone as local to you as possible that you can work with face-to-face, as it is much better and things are never right the first time.
what’s with the abrasive wording? and anyone who wants to manually make their own dials. I show many other tools in other vids and also alternative methods, but watchmaking tooling is near endless.
not good in what way? dial making isn’t the easiest thing or else any modder could easily do it. I have learned some tricks since this recording with the process, but it’s generally the same. A quick dial design can be done with a waterslide decal which looks ok to the eye mostly but isn’t near as high quality. I do wish more makers would share their work and processes, but alas they don’t.
Dear God, you know something but you make So much small errors... First of all you seems to dont understand the proces. The pad is a transfering element, is should be clean after each transfer... Next when you cleaning a pad with, thinner and alcohol, you destroing it surface. Next, stick transparent rigid foil to support of the cross table,bend it, print on it, than align the print to part. 1 print on foil, set cross table, move the foil, second print on a part... Next when you not printing, let the ink cup set on eatched artwork, you spear instant cleaning. Mix more ink to the cup, you eliminate drying issiue Stir ink better, blobs are bad. Ink should be super fluid, not thin but fluid like brand New car Oil. I have 16 years of expirience, In industrial pad printing! Regards!
I learn as I go, and have gotten better at it over time, and learned tricks (some of which you mention, like using transparent rigid foil for testing, leaving the cup over the print, etc) since I made this video, which was some time back. Eventually, I'll make another updated variant of the video. Many of the things you mention wouldn't have been necessary for me to figure out through trial and error if experienced people would create content and share. But alas, most people just hold onto their information and then point out when others make "mistakes." I thank you for your input, it is noted. But I also encourage you to make a video and share what you know if you wish others to do it "right." Although at the end of the day, if the dial turns out ok and it's my machine, parts, and ink...then I'm ok with that. And initial mistakes I made or will make are good because it's a learning process and it sticks. I'm more experienced now than I was then, but still have plenty to learn. Other thoughts......Industrial is easier than manual, as the machines are automated and computer controlled. Manual printing is another story. And there were no blobs in the ink ;) So what would you recommend cleaning silicone pad with anyway?
@@WatchComplications I'm from POLAND and i create content here localy, you have grate guys out there in US, John Caverman from pad print pros, and innovative Marking Systems. As for the manual printer, principale are the same, output per hour is much different. We use hand printer for test on a dayli bases. When you want to brake silicone pad, when it's New, from excesse of silicone Oil, u have to use alcohol, or fast thinner, on normal work, you should use adhesive tape to take out excess of dust and not transfer'ed ink. You should experiments with cycle time, pick up fast, than wait till ink dry a second or 2, than push it to part. U will see than, that whole ink will transfer from the pad, like it should be :) all ink should be on part, no residual ink should be visible on the pad after transfer. Its a matter of, plate, thickness of the ink, and cycle time. :)
The pads were pretty new when I was using them on this project. And yeah, cycle time is important, and can be a little harder with the manual printer, but I continue working at it. Thanks for the idea about tape.
I watched this one too. I already learned sooooo much
older videos, but glad some of the content is still proving useful for the process :)
@@WatchComplications its all good stuff
I found a little "coin" with a pretty raised design that I'd like to turn into watch. Your expertise is admirable, I won't come anywhere close to it. But it is inspiring - keep up the good work.
it's a constant learning process for anyone, including me. glad you are finding my content helpful and thanks for watching. :)
I've done a bit of pad printing, put some clear sellotape over the piece while getting correct placement, then just peel off before going in with yr good print.
yeah i would agree with that process change from what I showed a few years ago.
Thank you for sharing your expertise! Very informative.
Thanks!
yay but i am a little stunned on what im seeing !
stunned in what way?
Good work, where did you get the wooden dial holder? I'm trying to find something like it but so far no luck googling
hi there, it's not wooden, it's acrylic with a layer of paper on top (prevents reflection when the laser is cutting). I get them custom cut if needed, not going to find on google.
Nice dial beautiful
Thanks for watching
Really enjoyed the series, many thanks! The final product here was fantastic. I was trying to figure out why your printer does not always align exactly where you think it should and I think the solution may be in the pad. The pad is the only “non machined” piece connected. What I mean is that you showed in an earlier video that the bracket you use to connect the pad to the printer is connected by three wood screws you drilled in. There is a possibility that it is not exactly centered, and as such every time you remove the printing pad and put it back on again, if it is not exactly rotated to the same position it was previously when you reconnect it, then the slight offset would be in a different spot each time. To test this hypothesis, next time you are printing and need to clean the printing pad, try cleaning it without removing it and see if you get more consistent results. This of course is just a guess from an amateur who has never used one of these so I may be completely wrong :)
Hey! Glad you enjoyed the series. The pad mount is connected via screws, but I very rarely take them off. The pad itself is a little squishy, which might be adding to the slight variations some. I do have several different pads. But almost all of the components on the machine are moveable, and once set where desired, the results are fairly good. What can lead to differences between strikes is the amount of pressure, as the amount of pressure can move some of the parts in unwanted ways if they don't have enough support (like the surface the dial mount is sitting on) or aren't quite tight enough. I also don't have the entire machine bolted to the table, and I really should. But for a home setup, I get by :) Thanks for watching!
wow man good stuff
thanks for checking it out :)
Do you have a video showing just the equipment like ink cup etc? I am fascinated by this facet of watchmaking Only thing I like more is really good textured plates and indices.
like a walkthrough of the parts? as opposed to showing the process? I do not yet, but could make such a video!
Great video and I have really enjoyed the others watched so far. I'm researching with a plan to prototype a dial design that can be individually customised to a client's specification with colour and other finishes. Thanks for all your hints and tips!
Great to hear @peletonpete! Glad you're enjoying the vids and tinkering yourself.
Very nice results, I am not sure what technique and paint did you use to paint the white on the dial?
several very light layers of a white primer and spray paint. Spray very light layer, let dry two or three minutes, then spray next layer. Repeat for as many layers you want…usually I do 4-6 light layers.
I’d like to get a dial made. Is getting the Lum on the hands to match the dial is that not so difficult, or is that a real issue to achieve uniformly?
I was wondering if you could tell me what equipment I would need and raw material to make three-dimensional Chrome logos for watches I saw one of your videos on it. Something about a laser etcher? I will do some more research but I was curious I would like to produce my own logos and fonts in three dimensional
yeah, you'd need a really really good laser, or CNC machine
Thanks for all the work to show us this. I have an accurate CNC lathe so I can engrave the part you have laser cut. What's the depth the laser cuts to? Thanks.
Usually something in the 22-26 micron range should work.
Great video, and it lifts the veil of mystery around dial making! Just one question, can you recommend a good source for blank dials?
Esslinger has some, but i usually buy dials from ebay ofrei and other places and strip them down if necessary. I also get dial blanks custom cut with a laser.
Just subscribed. What would you recommend for easy photo editing software/vector editing? I really enjoy your videos
for 2d vector I use either Graphic or Affinity Designer (both on mac app store). for 3d I use AutoCAD.
Hi Brian ... great videos, I subscribed. I am a watchmaker with my own RUclips channel and I am creating my own line of watches ... I am trying to decide whether or not to outsource the dial printing and the issue is all about quality. The dials in your video do not have very small font. I need to get crisp lettering at a very small font (Submariner style under the hands ... that kind of thing). Do you think with some practice I can achieve that kind of result with the same outfit and process you show here. Richard
hi Richard! I have no idea how I missed this comment a couple years ago. I’ve seen your channel, quite successful. For getting really fine printing automated/computerized pad printing would really be the way to go. Can you achieve fine detail with a manual pad printer, yes, but it is hard!
Can you recommend a method for cutting a day date window in an existing dial? I don’t want an opening that looks like it was cut with a chainsaw. Thanks.
i’ve done it two ways, laser and water jet
I’m loving the custom dial series. Question: do you have any experience electroplating brass blanks? I’d love to see a video on that
Hello! Glad you are enjoying the series. I have not done any sort of electroplating, perhaps it's something I'll explore at some point. You mentioned brass blanks...did you have a particular metal in mind for the surface?
Watch Complications see I may be mistaken but I thought it was through electroplating that professional dial makers color their (often times brass) dials. I am looking to build a couple of my own watch and want to make a cream dial watch and a black dial.
@@Splitt2 electroplating can be used to alter the surface color, I just haven't messed around with it myself yet. I may at some point though...but from what I've read it takes a lot of testing and experience to get it right.
a trick : watch movies at Flixzone. I've been using it for watching a lot of movies during the lockdown.
@Benton Joseph yup, have been using Flixzone for since december myself :)
Thanks for your useful videos and helping me
Hello thanks for posting. Do you have a video on making a double dunk enamel watch dial?
nothing on enamel dials to this point...
can use a DTF printer?
Please help me how to print a photo on the watch dial
I have a series of videos that show an example way of doing that. ruclips.net/video/hmEzygD6cRM/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/2RLe2BeiD_s/видео.html are a good start.
I think put a transparent thin plastic all over the wood where you put the dial and print then you have a perfect guide
manual printing = things move regardless of material, but yeah that can help with an initial guide
Great video, do you have a link to the pad printing machine and the cliche?
I got the printer on ebay for around $300. You can search for pad printers with sealed ink cup and you'll see some similar listings. I waited about 6 months until I saw it at a price I liked. Looks like the ones listed now are higher in cost again. As for the cliche, are you asking about just buying blanks? Because the blanks you'd want to get will depend on the printer you get.
good one
Hello, what did you use to paint the dial? And how many coatings of primer and paint did you use? Thank you
several light layers of white primer applied 2 or 3 minutes apart. sometimes a layer of paint on top. the inks for the printing are a multi purpose ink for pad printing.
@@WatchComplications thank you man.
@@WatchComplications are there other ways to print letters/logos on a dial other than the techniques you’re using?
Thanks for the videos. Very helpful. Would you mind sharing the company that engraved your plates? I know you mentioned finding someone local, but I’m not having much luck with that, and would find it easier to work with someone with experience in engraving the plates. please DM if you’re not comfortable posting.
I would love to know this as well if you could share that would be awesome
Great content, do you build custom dials I need to buy a custom dial for my watch
Hello. I make custom dials, but for my own brand and projects. In other words, anything I make has my logo on it.
Could you please please recommend a movement/case for 39mm 0.8mm thick dial?
That's a very broad question. I'd say find a 39mm case via eBay or a watch parts distributor, see what movement(s) it's made for and if that would work for you. If not, then you'll have to decide on a movement for whatever complications you're wanting and either find a case that fits it or have a custom holder made to fit the chosen movement to a case you do like.
@@WatchComplications thank you for your reply. I actually searched 39mm case which returns the total diameter of case as 39mm and not the dial fit. But I'll still look for it.
Could you recommend a no day/date (only time) movement for a 0.8mm thick dial? I'll figure it out after that as you suggested..but I'm unable to find a mechanical movement that will fit 0.8mm dial.
Dial thickness has nothing to do with whether it will fit a movement, all that matters in that regard is if the dial feet are in the right location. If you want a movement with a stem height that is correct for the case given the thicker dial the result will probably be a thicker case and custom holder. Depending on the case, you would need a dial diameter that fits the case.
Hi.please let me know, what is the ink name and where can buy it.Thanks
Currently using this: www.imprintor.com/mulpurinkcom1.html
What machine is this and what machine do you use when engraving on a cliche? How deep should the engrave be?
There is no specific model number. If you google sealed ink cup pad printer or pad printing machine, you'll see them on sites like eBay and Amazon. The plates I have etched with a laser at a shop close to me. The depth is somewhere between 20-24 microns.
Sir which chemical is used for making etching plates. How photosensitive emulsion is applied and which electrolyte is used for etching process.
These are steel plates. I have them laser etched, no chemicals.
Good you do laser etching. But Swiss people who did etching with perfection that old technique is getting lost. My dad use to-do. First making a calligraphy master then positive film with that wooden camera and enlarger. Followed by photo emulsion method.
What kind of ink and thinner are you using?
I use a multi-purpose ink and the thinner from www.imprintor.com/
What kind of ink did u use to print on the dial?
multipurpose ink from Imprintor
cool wherer did you get taht dial maker/machine? thanks in advance
eBay, at around $300
Hello, how to apply paint in dial? Example champange silver
The video shows the process of applying paint to the dial, or are you meaning the base dial color?
@@WatchComplications Yes, I mean how do you apply the base dial color?
sometimes I get dials with a white or black base already applied, sometimes I paint blanks myself using standard primers and paints from Rustoleum and Krylon
Thank you!
Can you make me a custom GMT 1675 dial ?
watchcomplications.com/custom-watch-request/
Where did you buy the plate ?
the business I used to do the etching had some plates from a previous customer/order so we used those. but if you google "steel plates" or "steel cliches" for pad printing you will find places that sell them
How did you custom the plate?
laser etching
@@WatchComplications thank you sir 🙏
@@WatchComplications can u tell me how the details to get the perfect result? The depth etc
Best regards
the depth on mine is supposed to be between 22-26 microns
@@WatchComplications I'm still learning how to properly measure the original dial fonts and markers . so that it becomes very similar to the original when i stamp on it .I have tried many times but failed. would you tell me the tips?
You should cut shirts in little squares.using the whole shirt is wacked
ooook
It's too bad that you don't hold the dial steady and more magnified. Even when I still the video I am not able to see how sharp the printing is!
I wasn't quite as astute at video making back then, but if it helps, the printing was pretty sharp.
how do i print on domed dial?
Silicon pads on pad printers can mold around various shapes. The shape and size of the pad is important for what item being printed. One issue beyond the pad would be having a similarly domed fixture under the dial so that when the pad is pressed against the domed dial, it doesn't bend the dial.
I always wanted to know what these bewb printers were called.
This process is so lengthy. How can we go for production. I think old method of printing is far better then present. Very complicated procedure.
manual pad printing is a really long process
Hi. please let me know about the plate. is it laser plate or Alcohol wash. where I can buy it?Thanks.
It's laser etched. And you can't just buy them, at least not as simply as that sounds. You have to create the design to be etched in a vector format, buy the appropriate plates for the printer and the laser, and work with a manufacturer or laser shop to do the work. I would recommend finding someone as local to you as possible that you can work with face-to-face, as it is much better and things are never right the first time.
Pad no very good too flat.
who the fuck has all the devices you present?
what’s with the abrasive wording? and anyone who wants to manually make their own dials. I show many other tools in other vids and also alternative methods, but watchmaking tooling is near endless.
There must be an easier way, this was not good to watch ! :(
not good in what way? dial making isn’t the easiest thing or else any modder could easily do it. I have learned some tricks since this recording with the process, but it’s generally the same. A quick dial design can be done with a waterslide decal which looks ok to the eye mostly but isn’t near as high quality. I do wish more makers would share their work and processes, but alas they don’t.
Two episodes, same outfit???
You need to fire your "continuity-girl" !
Paddy
Dear God, you know something but you make So much small errors...
First of all you seems to dont understand the proces. The pad is a transfering element, is should be clean after each transfer...
Next when you cleaning a pad with, thinner and alcohol, you destroing it surface.
Next, stick transparent rigid foil to support of the cross table,bend it, print on it, than align the print to part. 1 print on foil, set cross table, move the foil, second print on a part...
Next when you not printing, let the ink cup set on eatched artwork, you spear instant cleaning.
Mix more ink to the cup, you eliminate drying issiue
Stir ink better, blobs are bad. Ink should be super fluid, not thin but fluid like brand New car Oil.
I have 16 years of expirience, In industrial pad printing! Regards!
I learn as I go, and have gotten better at it over time, and learned tricks (some of which you mention, like using transparent rigid foil for testing, leaving the cup over the print, etc) since I made this video, which was some time back. Eventually, I'll make another updated variant of the video. Many of the things you mention wouldn't have been necessary for me to figure out through trial and error if experienced people would create content and share. But alas, most people just hold onto their information and then point out when others make "mistakes." I thank you for your input, it is noted. But I also encourage you to make a video and share what you know if you wish others to do it "right." Although at the end of the day, if the dial turns out ok and it's my machine, parts, and ink...then I'm ok with that. And initial mistakes I made or will make are good because it's a learning process and it sticks. I'm more experienced now than I was then, but still have plenty to learn. Other thoughts......Industrial is easier than manual, as the machines are automated and computer controlled. Manual printing is another story. And there were no blobs in the ink ;) So what would you recommend cleaning silicone pad with anyway?
@@WatchComplications I'm from POLAND and i create content here localy, you have grate guys out there in US, John Caverman from pad print pros, and innovative Marking Systems. As for the manual printer, principale are the same, output per hour is much different. We use hand printer for test on a dayli bases. When you want to brake silicone pad, when it's New, from excesse of silicone Oil, u have to use alcohol, or fast thinner, on normal work, you should use adhesive tape to take out excess of dust and not transfer'ed ink. You should experiments with cycle time, pick up fast, than wait till ink dry a second or 2, than push it to part. U will see than, that whole ink will transfer from the pad, like it should be :) all ink should be on part, no residual ink should be visible on the pad after transfer. Its a matter of, plate, thickness of the ink, and cycle time. :)
The pads were pretty new when I was using them on this project. And yeah, cycle time is important, and can be a little harder with the manual printer, but I continue working at it. Thanks for the idea about tape.