My Olympus Macro Photography Settings (OM-1)
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- MICAEL's OLYMPUS MACRO KIT
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💥 Flash: Godox v350o
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MICAEL's SONY MACRO KIT
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It's always interesting to see other brands menu systems and settings. From my "Canon point of view" the Olympus menu system looks very confusing so I stopped watching in the middle of the video.
Why dont you turn on AF buy half pressing Micael ? It always On on my OM1 ! If you turn off you dont have AF. Please explain to me
I want to separate AF from taking the actual photo. I want to set focus independently and not have it change every time I press the shutter. It gives more control. That's why I have a different button for AF.
Finally, someone made a really good and informative video on macro topics for Olympus OM-1. Good job. Thanks for doing this video.
Answered many questions I had regarding this topic :D
You're very welcome!
Issues with OM-1 and Godox V850III (manual)
I'm having some trouble with my flash setup on the OM-1. Here are two questions I'm hoping you can help with:
1. Flash not firing at 0s charge time: When I set the charge time to 0 seconds, the flash doesn't fire. It only works when I set it to 0.1 seconds or higher. Is this normal behavior, and why does it happen?
2. When I use bracketing with a 1/250s shutter speed and the flash set to 1/16 power, half the image comes out black. Sounds like that limitation you mentioned in the video, right? Interestingly, the issue vanishes when I switch to a 1/125s shutter speed. How'd you handle this in your examples (which seem to use 1/250s with flash)?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Having the same issue with my godox v350 - does not fire when recycle is set to 0 seconds. Could i be missing a setting?
Hi Micael, first of all, thank you very much for very valuable information. Love your all photos and videos. My question is, I recently switch from nikon to OM system. (Just because of you 🙂) I bought OM-1 Mark II. What i couldn't understand is my shutter speed when i'm on focus bracketing can't go up 160th. When I do that, i get black out the top of the frame. My flash couln't catch up the speed. I'm using Youngnuo YN 560 III. But if i shot in without focus bracketing, i can go up more higher speed without any problem. Am I missing something here? What do you think about this problem? Thank you very much, if you can help much appreciated. 🙏
Hello Micael, I have been using the OM-1 and 60mm macro with Godox and KR 60 diffuser, I find manual 1/8 power on the Godox T 350 is about right. Whilst I appreciate manual mode on the flash is for consistency I immediately reflect to say the subjects are not consistent! That is to say there are bright small subjects and comparatively large dark subjects and vice versa, the camera to subject distance also varies - so this leads me to question what is wrong with TTL flash? The other point I would like to raise is the SS, 1/60sec through to 1/250sec, the lower shutter speeds permit more ambient light so surely this is advantageous for natural looking images - what is the advantage of using 1/250sec? I am not for one minute suggesting your recommendations are wrong but I would welcome a little discussion if anyone cares to offer their views.
Nothing inherently wrong with TTL. If you prefer it, use it. Regarding shutter speed, yes you are right - slower ss can give you brighter nicer background. The reason I recommend 1/250 (especially to beginners) is that you have a much smaller risk of motion blur ruining your shot.
Thankyou for a tremendous resource for anyone looking to get into macro photography. Recently bought om-1 and 60mm macro and godox 350v based on your gear recommendations. I'm just struggling with the flash as it does not fire when recycle time is set to 0 seconds. It does fire once that is changed to say 0.1s - something i'm missing?
Micael, for S-OVF you can also use "Live View Boost" instead to get the same effect. The nice thing about LV-Boost is that it can be set by mode (PASM, BULB) rather than globally. So, say you select manual mode, viewfinder would not reflect exposure settings but be full bright. Also, there are two different boost modes depending on whether you are in dark environments or not.
Thank you so much micael. That was so much easier to understand than some of the videos I have watched on this set up. I can't wait to try it out. :)
I have similar settings. But the focus BKT is set to the +/- button on top of the camera. I also haven't worked with backbutton autofocus yet.
Did you know that if you press the button for focus BKT for a longer time, you will be taken directly to the focus BKT settings?
Yeah I just learned about the long press from another commenter - really neat feature
Thanks for all the videos you have posted sofar. you have been very helpful. Good luck with the new direction you will choose. I just bought a godox v860iii on my om-1 mark ii. It is my first flash. I have tried using the focus stacking option (so not the focus bracketing) but then my flash does not work. It works fine with the focus bracketing function. Do you know how to solve this ? Or anyone else that might be reading this post. Thank you.
Hmm never heard about this issue. I don’t know.
Gotta bookmark this video. Thanks man.
Thank you for all of your very informative videos. I mostly shoot birds and wildlife with a Sony A1, but I also have a Sony a7cII. After watching a bunch of your videos I am going to try some macro with the latter camera, as it has subject recognition, and supports auto focus bracketing. Do you know if auto bracketing on Sony will work in conjunction with your preferred flash - the Godox V350 ?
From what I have heard no other brand than OM/Olympus can do focus bracketing together with flash at a fast pace. So the stacking features on other systems are pretty much useless for live insects. You can still do focus stacking manually though.
@@MicaelWidellThanks for that (disappointing) information. I'll probably get the flash anyway for single shots, and manual stacking. Appreciate the quick response,
Would you be interested to make a guide how to use a camera? 😅 Like all it's features and stuff?
I prefer making videos :)
I have the om-1 with the 60 mm macro. If set at 1:1, will it still do focus bracketing or stacking? Thanks for another great video.
love your videos
Hi Micael, I just got my OM-1 and this video is a great start for setting it up for shooting insects. Thank you for all the tutorials you posted over the years. I'm going to miss your great advice now that you've decided to go in another directions. Good luck with that.
I have to make a confession😇. Because I participated in an OMS Macro workshop some weeks ago. I recieved a 10% discount on any OMS lens purchase. I wasn't planning to use it, but just a few days ago OMS announced a rebate on the 90mm macro. Because they could be combined I got €350 off (4000 SEK). So couldn't resist it, expecting not a better deal as it is brand new. So your macro expert guides are very welcome! Thanks.
Thank you for this video! I am setting up my OM-1 mk. ii this evening for the first time. This gives me confidence in the direction I'm going. To my surprise, your OM-1 settings are essentially identical to the settings I have been using for my Canon R5.
Thank you !!!
Forgot about the existence of the "MF Assist" and "Peaking settings", very helpful indeed. Will use it for my landscape photography as well in order to set my hyperfocal point.
Also assigned it to the front button like you suggested.
Actually I'm using the C1 and C2 for my focusbracketing, C1 with "focus differential 5" and C2 for "focus differential 3" (for very close insects).
And didn't know that you can set 5500K for flash use only, thought it was enough to change the "WB".
Worth to mention: Lost quit some time before I realized that changing the C1-C4 settings change almost all the settings. With Sony not all the settings are changed when you go from C1 to C2 for example. Like to use these Cx-settings.
So thank you Micael
Thanks for doing that Micael, always interesting to see how other folk have their OM-1s set up. I do have most of it what you mention on a custom profile, however for some reason I hadnt even thought about static white balance, so that has now been rectified! Also stuck MF toggle on button as you have, I didn't even realise you could do that! 😅 Thanks 👍🏻
I just made a comment on your latest video that I'd like to see a video about your camera and flash settings. I just found this video you made .This is so helpful. Thank you
Thankyou for a really informative video ..have changed some of my settings accordingly and will try 😊
A simple thank you. I did post before but never saw it, so this is a test as well ;-)
Perfect video. Exact same setup as me and insects will soon be out again !
Muchas gracias por tu video. Todas estas configuraciones se pueden aplicar en c1 del dial de modos??
Yes I guess so. Go ahead and try
@@MicaelWidell muchísimas gracias
Hi great Video, after your recomondations, in other videos i switched from lumixg9 to OM1, but what that focus peaking funktion is garbage in comparision to lumix g9, how handle do that for shooting in burstmode with flash when focus peaking is gone when you half press the shutter ? in alll your Om1 videos, no comment from that. WHY this is an important function for macro shooters
I'm guessing you're talking about using peaking when bracketing? I'm using what I think is Michael's method. AF on 1/2 shutter press is turned off. Focusing in 1:1 mode is manual by moving the camera. Since I'm not using the ring, I need a button set to toggle peaking on and off.
Great summary! Just ordered an OM-1: Will be here next week 👍 A question… why don’t you use TTL for flash? Why use manual for flash-power?
I simply like having control and no moving variables. But there’s nothing wrong with TTL
Hi Micael,
Question about flashes, I have 2 Olympus FL-50R and 1 original FL-50 from the 4/3 times (before the era of focus stacking). I really hope this can do the job, so I don't have to buy a new flash. But I am a bit concerned that the recycle times are too slow with stacking or focus bracketing. The AK Diffuser seems to be the best choice from what I've seen from it. As they are specifically designed for a specific flash and lens combination. Upgrading seems difficult afterwards. Do you have any recommendations how I can test if the FL-50(R) flashes can do the job?
One step at a time. First learn the basics of macro photography, then a year or two later you can try stacking. A flash is fast enough for stacking if you can take several photos per second for a few seconds at 1/16 in strength. The AK diffuser is custom made for your flash, lens and camera, so yeah get a flash you really want to use before ordering the AK.
Thanks Micael for your insight, i finnally moved to lOM-1 for macrophotography because of your video. This camera is a monster for macro. Bur. In your video "Sony or Olympus fo macrophotography? I ve decided", you said that the major feature you moved to Olympus is focus stacking feature. Why you using focus bracketing now? Because the cheap mirrorless camera like canon m6 mkii can do the job focus bracketing very well.
No other system can do focus bracketing or stacking as well as OM at the same high magnifications and with a flash, especially not Canon
Thank you for your video! I follow you from Italy and it's a pleasure to see your photos. I'd like to start in microphotography. I've done same experiment with simple gear and lens: Nikon 60mm micro on Lumix G80, sometimes with D800 lent from friend, but without flash :(. Could you suggest a cheap flash (only manual as TTL is not needed as I understand from your tips) that can support fast shooting for focus braketing? Thanks
Meike mk320 is a good cheap flash
I use the MKIII with the 60mm 2,8 for macro, thx to You. I found that I get deeper focus at f:16, and then using ISO 400. The Olympus can easily handle the higher ISO. And the V350 1/16 like you. And I just turned the 2 second image rewiev on - thankyou.
In theory, yes, that is right. In reality the higher DOF overshines refraction. I do this for insects/macro all the time. And my insect photos are tach sharp and lacks no quality. Not even close to soft. Of course I would never do it with portraits or landscape. But for macro - get out of your comfortzone and try it…..
Let me get this straight, the Olympus OM-1 will flash sync at 250th of a sec. when doing focus stacking? Thanks in advance.
When stacking it only syncs up to 1/100
Hi Micael, thanks for the video, very good.
does the OM system save the images in their own folders when stacking?? do you have to put them together manually afterwards or does the OM system camera do it in the camera automatically??
It does not separate them into folders. The camera can put together stacks itself of up to 8 images. But in general you get better results if you do the stack yourself in the computer afterwards, so that is what I tend to do.
I recall being able to stack at 1/200s with the OMD-1 M3 - am I mistaken? So, the limit on the OM1 is frustrating.
You are mistaken. However, a limit of 1/100 s is not an issue at all if you are using a flash
Hej Micael, excellent video. Why do you set SF+RAW? Why not only Raw when you shoot with Focus Bracketing?
Good question! I don't have a good answer. I guess I set this earlier because it was required when I used the focus stacking built into the camera.
Despite a slightly different options in menu, I'm sure you can apply the same settings in any camera, not only Olympus. Great video, thanks Micael
True. Most settings for macro applies to any camera and macro lens.
Thank you so much. ❤
Do you pull down the plastic flap diffuser on the flash when you shoot?
No. It wouldn't make much of a difference. You need a big diffuser either way to get nice looking photos
Hallo Michael, it is great fun, watching your videos. Thank you! I recently bought a Panasonic G9, with 45mm macrolens and Godox 860 III. Goal was macrophotgraphy with small insects, outside with flash, but without tripod. The OM1-II was too excpensive, and i already had panasonic leica lenses. The fotostacking in camera is great with the G9, but omly possible without flash... I wonder whether I made the good choice, bij choosing a hih and Panasonic, and not a Olympus or OM. Mostly all tutorials about macro stacking are about OM camera's !
Could you please tell me if from your point of vieuw the handling from Olympus for macro focus stacking of focus-bracketing is far more easy/ better/ comfortable than the mentioned panasonic of me?
If you are going to use MFT for Macro, the OM system is unbeatable for one simple reason: you can do fast focus bracketing with a flash. No other system can do this. And a flash is necessary to get nice insect stacks.
Thank you for answering so quickly!, Micael. I tried focus bracketing in camera (G9) with Gox flash 860III (on M) and that works well. About 10 till 15 fast picures with flash. So that works!
But I was wondering whether you could also use fotostacking IN CAMERA with flash outside. Thats what my camera refuses to do (also via sync contact). Is that kin of use possible with an OM1 body ???
Hi Micael. Great video as walways, thanks.
I can't seem to find a definitive answer online for this:
With focus bracketing turned on, is there a way to set the OM-1 to also use the mechanical shutter in that mode? Or is that not possible?
I know with the older E-M1 series, it's all using elec shutter, and flash sync speed is limited to ~1/50, right?
Did OMDS increase the Elec. shutter flash speed sync to 1/100 on the OM-1?
Edit: confirmed with someone below that it's electronic only
I wish there'd be an option to have mechanical shutter bracketing or at least up the electronic sync speed to 1/250 🥲
I guess we will have to wait until global shutter cameras are the norm
Only electrical shutter for stacking. 1/100 s max on the OM-1, 1/50 s or 1/20 s on older models, depending on model.
Micael
When using focus bracketing or hs mode does the OM-1 (mkI) slow down exposures to allow the flash to catch up? Putanother way, doe it communicatewiththe flash to ensure the shutter is onlyreased when the flash 8s ready attherequired power level. As the prices have dropped with the release of the mkII, I considering purchasing a mk I purely for macro. I currently use Nikon z50s and I have not found a setting to prevent shutter release occurring before the flash is ready. As such, in longersequences I often end up with underexposed shots - sometimes unusable so. I'm hoping the Olympics might overcomethis issue.
One other question. Have you come across any focus target misalignment problems with the mkI? Iboughtonelast yearbutreturned it because I found it consistently focused to gherightof the target. This was with the small area target setting aside recall. I buying another one now in the hope that the previous one was simply a faulty unit. I've found z few comments on the Internet about similar problems butnogverymanyso it doesn't appear to be a general problem; either that or people are working round the issue, which ifind difficult to believe
Yes the camera communicates with the flash and pauses if the flash needs to rest. No I haven't had any focus misalignment issues.
@@MicaelWidell Thanks Micael. Hopefully my new example will work correctly then.
Some great tips in this video thanks Micael, I'll definitely be putting them to the test. I have the same set up other than the flash, I have the Godox V860ii but I'm sure that won't make a difference
Does the V860ii ever have any trouble keeping up with the focus stacking? It seams like a real beast!
I've never had a problem with it keeping up. The battery lasts soooo long too. It's a superb flash
Set the flash wide ?
Can u please tell us what that means ? Can u give an example ?
Thank u !
I assume u mean like 14 mm versus 100mm
Thx
Yes, the mm number should be as low as possible :) Usually around 12-24mm is the widest
@@MicaelWidell
Thank u kindly ❤️
Hi Micael,
Try using the digital teleconverter on your OM-1... much more flexibility than the Raynox... Focuses about, max - 20 inches all the way down to roughly about 2.5 inches. With better magnification and in my opinion better image quality. I use an EM1 MK3 + 60 mm 2.8 macro. (+ DCR-250 which I don't use anymore) don't need to be putting on and taken off the Raynox, gives me just the right amount of range. Got some absolutely fantastic images using only the digital teleconverter. For any one out there who has a micro 4/3 with digital converter may want to try it out. (Hopefully it will work as good as mine) The digital teleconverter on my EM1 MK3 is 2x magnification + 2x magnification from the M 4/3 = 4x magnification. All the best take care.
BTW I emailed you previously about this same topic...so just ignore.
The digital teleconverter just crops the image? So what use is it? I can crop in Lightroom..
I agree... with teleconverter 5184 X 3888 Normal 5240 X 3912 hardly any difference, unless using 16mp or below. No problem mate, just a suggestion.
@MicaelWidell
If I have understood it, it is a crop but with some interpolation, and thus better than cropping in Lightroom.
But I never use it. 🤷
Watched your video about your gear, ordered the Godox V350s and god, I think I got the worst one ever. Literally everthing is shit on my Version, Every picture has a different exposure, no matter if TTL or manual, each 2-3 pictures the flash doesn't react when taking the first photo but only at the second and further ones (and yes, the flash was fully loaded and I just had it set to 1/32), the battery-display is all over the place. Fully charged, sometimes it shows completely empty, then it shows full again, pure nightmare.
I ordered a second one in the hope that it will be better. If it is as shitty as this one, I will refund it.
Do you have other recommendations besides the Meike MK320s? I had the Meike and it broke after 1 year (just flashes on maximum power now, no settings are changeable anymore).
I had similar experience with my first v350. I hope you get better luck with the second one, because the good units are amazing. Sorry I have no other suggestions than these two.
@@MicaelWidellThanks for the quick response. :) What about the bigger Flash you use with your plastic-lightbulb as an external Makro-Flash? Is it fast enough and everything?
@@MicaelWidell Can I ask you one more question? I received the second Godox today and it basically behaves the same. Is it "normal" that the flash sometimes does't fire when shooting single photos? I mean, I can shoot series of 15 photos without problems but when I press the shutter in single mode, sometimes it just doesn't flash. Very strange...
Do you have these issues as well with your Sony?
I missed more explanation about the magnification, the OM-1 combined with the 90 mm is 1:2 and with a converter you can magnify x 1.4 or x 2.0 that means 4.0 magnification, and when I am right that means 1:8 equivalent with FF. And in my opinion is the use of a flash not always necessary specially when the insect does not move and you have enough light (spring/summer).
Ok, I guess I broke protocol ;-)
The topic of this video is camera settings, not magnification
@@MicaelWidell Pfffff stupid me!
Micael great video!!!Really helpful!!!! Also i would like to ask something. Is it possible to do Focus BKT on MF or the camera has to be on AF mode? If it is on MF then you rock your body back and forward or keep the camera still??
Yes you CAN do focus bracketing when in MF mode. I was a bit unclear about that earlier. But you can NOT do focus bracketing when the focus clutch on the 90mm is in manual mode. Two different things.
@@MicaelWidell Thank you!!!It would be very helpful if one of your next videos is a step-by-step tutorial how to execute focus BKT explaining (as you always do) in detail. You do a great job!!!!!
On my E-M1 ii even the AF-on button works in MF mode. So you can set the starting point of the focus bracketing manually or by pressing AF-on. For me this is a very handy feature. Haven't seen other camera brands where it works like this.
Do you notice a slight buzzing noise coming from the OM1?
Hmm nope. Maybe the lens stabilization. But that sounds more like a soft wind.
@@MicaelWidell yeah like a light fan noise
Yes I think that is the lens stabilization. And probably normal.
Why do you shoot image aspect of 1:1?
ruclips.net/video/vkASzHC1BNA/видео.html
@@MicaelWidell OK, that's for video - thanks for the explanation. What I was asking is your OM1 settings - why you are shooting stills in 1:1 aspect ratio. Is that to match your videos? I'm assuming the raw files will still be 4:3, but just wondering.
Thanks again. Really needed this video
Wow thanks for the donation Eric!
No problem. Flash took less than a day to be delivered. Easier than I expected to use because since 2011 I've never used flash lol. Always thought it would be more work and basically avoided ever using one.
That flash plus defuser is awesome. Purposely tried in low daylight and way underexposed. Came out brilliant in a stack with no effort. Guess a flash and defuser is needed lol
Thank you for this video, im currently using Olympus OM-D E-M1X with the M.Zuiko Digital ED 60mm F2.8 Macro, Raynox-250, Godox tt350 a popeshield or dörr diffuser.
The options according settings are very much the same. There was a few new things in the video i will test.
Looking forward to test it out in the field asap!
Very informative video 👏
Recently started using the same setup myself. How do you find the TT350?
I'm glad the om1 worked for someone. I tried out the mark ii and im sending it back; I will probably never look at olympus ever again. I like to use auto iso and exposure compensation with my flash in manual and for whatever reason i could never get auto iso and exposure comp to work like it does with my sony camera; the iso would stay at 200 the majority of the time and exposure comp changed nothing.