FYI the purple colour of the glowing pipe is your camera picking up infra red emission. An IR cut filter, often used in astrophotography, wil block the IR and remove the purple glow.
Yeah, was gonna say, this is something that I thought most phones solved well over a decade ago, but apparently even flagship androids still don't have IR filters for some reason. Even my old $300 iphone from 7 years ago has an IR filter to ensure the colors are not distorted by overloaded IR sources.... compared against my $900 pixel and still that ugly pinkish purple glow shows up whenever I film things like fireplaces or candles.
Although most cameras have IR filtering to some extent they usually let some through. An IR cut filter block all of it. I've had the problem and cured it with said filter. I recall it was a cheap svbony IR and UV cut filter from Amazon, which only let's visible light through.
I work for a large brewery, and we capture CO2 from fermentation. We run it through a scrubber and liquefy it with an NH3/R717 refrigeration system on an industrial scale. And then we sell that too (next to some buffering and internal usage). If you're looking for CO2 sources and interesting side products... Anyway, thank you for your fun videos! I really enjoy watching them.
This man is finding new and creative ways to avoid going to a store while burning electronics and I'm all for it. Where I'm from dry ice is a bit of a pain to buy but I can buy a 20kg cylinder of CO2 off of eBay and have it posted to my door. Should really practice my braising / plumbing because your skill is truly astonishing.
There's a good chance that you can take your own red cylinder and have the local firefighters fill it with CO2 for free. They'll probably get suspicious if you come back for a top-up more than once or twice a year, though.
I had a thought for constructing your firebrick surroundings for the pipe furnace. There is a really cheap type of cement you can get for constructing custom firebrick shapes. I've used it for making ornaments for sitting in campfires for collecting and reflecting heat. I found it on Amazon as Castable Refractory Cement.
You can make your own castable refractory cement quite cheaply. Take unscented kitty litter and grind it to a fine powder (wear a mask). Kitty litter is bentonite clay, and the unscented stuff is pure clay because there's no perfume. Mix the fine powder with water, and it can be cast as a solid brick, used as a mortar, or used as a surface coating. Plaster of paris can also work for the purpose.
Love projects like this. It’s not terribly useful, economical or quick, but it’s COOL. I enjoy doing this type of stuff because I can, and I find it relaxing. Awesome video!
@@cherylm2C6671 absolutely! My main hobby is collecting skills and information that would be useful if someday the supply chain fails and we can’t rely on foreign industry for essential products. Even if something isn’t economically viable now it may well be in the future.
@@chemistryofquestionablequa6252 Not sure if it's more about local economics or getting a waste product into the Hydrogen economy. Mass quantities have to keep ships running to all the global emergencies.
I think I figured out why your induction furnace might be temperature limited. Hysteresis loss in the ferromagnetic iron pipe you're using allows it absorbs the circuit's energy really well. So, one could conjecture that the iron pipe you're using significantly loses it's ability to absorb energy from the circuit above its curie temperature (770C for carbon steel and just over a 1000C for pure iron), leading to the temperature "stalling" at 900C. Heating does occur above that temperature, just nowhere near as efficiently as before since it's now solely driven by eddy currents. Circuit redesign time I guess?
I agree with this. You can see this demonstration in induction forging where the iron billet will fall through the magnetic field after it becomes cherry red.
My college capstone project was designing a cement mine and I was in charge of the aggregate and processing (I’m not a chemical engineer or a chemist so I had no clue what was going on). Modern Portland cement is still basically lime and some other fun additives. Particle size is very important at every step, which is what I was focusing on (due to an issue with our data, we could not get accurate mineral estimations and thus couldn’t do anything with the chemistry). All the research I had done discussed the importance of the additives and mineralogical makeup of the rock but not the basics of the chemistry. But despite days of research, your tiny blurb about limestone and mortar made everything click. The rest of the video was good too I guess.
Regarding the ZVS circuit, you can increase the efficiency a bunch by altering the gate driver topology slightly. As you've built it, the BJTs will operate in the linear region, which means you've got a voltage drop between the gate and the rail (0V or your gate drive voltage), on top of your 10Ω series resistor (minus the momentary impedance of the two caps). You may also be operating closer to the SOA limits during switching due to the Miller effect, which is likely to be quite significant in the context of ZVS. There's a better option - look up the video "Revisiting MOSFET push pull gate driver" by Sam Ben-Yaakov. He shows a MOSFET push-pull driver design that works by adding split gate resistance (higher resistance to gate drive voltage, lower to ground) and using small MOSFETs instead of the BJTs. That gets you the best of all worlds - no voltage drop in the driver transistors, optimised for reducing Miller effect and avoiding self-turn-on issues, and any push-pull driver shoot-through will go through the gate resistors and heavily reduce the current. I've used it to great effect in scenarios where I can't use a dedicated gate driver IC. It's very fast and super efficient. One thing to note, though, is that all of these gate drivers are sensitive to parasitic inductance, because the drive current is a few amps and the switching time is very short (nanoseconds). Avoid stripboard, go for a proper PCB, ideally 4 layers with a sig/gnd/gnd/sig stackup (JLCPCB do them laughably cheap these days). You want a really small current loop between your drivers and your gate, ideally with a solid ground plane underneath and local capacitance sat as close to the driver FETs as you can get it. That keeps all the dI/dt in a small area, with a really low impedance power delivery network.
Seashell decomposition is also reversible, after you convert CaCO3 to CaO, make Ca(OH)2 in water and pass air through it. Hydroxide will trap CO2 from air turning it back into limestone. After evaporating water CaCO3 should be left ready to another batch of decomposition closing cycle. This way basic CO2 scrubber can be made.
The calcium oxide or quick lime will absorb CO2 from the atmosphere if you spread it out thinly and let it dry, the cementation process is literally driven by absorbing CO2, it can then go through the process of being burnt again to capture more CO2. I don't know if there's any losses but I'm fairly confident that it's mostly a lossless process in terms of the lime.
4:10 Camera sensor is sensitive to a wider spectrum than just the visible light, and they typically have a wavelength band pass filter on the sensor itself or on the lenses, but that filter only gets you so far. If you have a source of broad spectrum light strong enough, some of IR and UV makes it to the camera sensor and gets registered, and IR triggering red plus UV triggering blue, makes magenta.
I dont think there is any substantial amount of UV produced, as the spectrum does not even contain enough blue yet to appear white. It would need to be way hotter than that. Also: so far, every camera i've seen picked up IR as pink
The human eye has a frequency response bump for the "red" cones high up in the violet area, which is why red+blue appears as purple. I suspect something like that happens with camera sensors, which is why strong IR appears as fuchsia instead of just red. But in their case the blue filters are letting in a little IR.
As far as I understand, this is generally true, except, red pixels in a display wouldn't be able to reproduce more "red" red, which means, even if the camera picks it up, a screen wouldn't be able to reproduce it without usilising blue component. So maybe it's a quirk of the inner workings of a camera sensor, that more "red" red, is processed as magenta, and the electronics part of it actually convert "very red" as red with some blue.
So, I would highly suggest using potassium carbonate/bicarbonate to concentrate CO2. This is often used in direct air capture, and you don't need to reach such high temperatures. You can collect CO2 from the air at sub 90C by letting the potassium carbonate turn into potassium bicarbonate. You then heat it above 90C to release the CO2. Search online to find the vapor pressures, some recent papers cover this. With this method you can concentrate CO2 from the air a lot more easily than via calcination since much lower temperatures are possible. Unfortunately, it can take some time for CO2 to be reabsorbed and to extract all the CO2 you want, but you can speed these processes up with agitation. Good luck!
This is a good idea, although since you'd be decomposing the bicarbonate, you would need to account for the water produced. You could add an inline drying tube packed with pellets of a dessicant in order to dry the CO2. I'd recommend using calcium chloride as the drying agent because it does not react with CO2, comes in pellet form, and has excellent drying power even at low % humidity.
Nichrome wire for heating is extremely cheap, and I hit 1050C with it easily. Lookup diy electric forges. Naked brass screw terminals are very convenient for connecting to nichrome wire.
Potter here. I burn eggshells to make CaO which I use as a flux (lowers silica melting point and makes a strong, durable glass, its awesome.) anyway, I could totally see some easy modifications to a kiln (electric) to fit a copper chamber inside to do this. There are small ones that run on 15-20amp breakers, same as test forges or knife ovens, but usually insulated a bit better designed to stay on longer. you'd have no trouble getting it hot enough. and modern digital controllers just make it as easy as a toaster oven.
Your entire compressed gas series has been great fun, asI've been looking into a system by which gasses could be collected differentially after a pyrolysis, and this might just be the method to use honestly. Feel free to steal that idea and try it with a mixture of gasses, I'm curious if/how well they could be cold distilled so to speak.
Drop pressure in the pipe - according to graph you've shown that also drops the required temperature. More powerful induction heater might also help...
04:12 - IR light looks "pink" in most digital cameras. This is specially true of very cheap ones when you remove the IR filter from the lens OR even good cameras with a decent filter, if the source is hot enough. It's actually kinda cool you can make the cheap version (active illumination) of night-vision with just some IR leds and a cheap webcam
I hope you mean the new "MAPP" gas. The old stuff (which was even hotter) was banned around 10-20 years ago (time flies), and is basically impossible to find, except sitting in people's garages. I don't remember the details, just the general story.
You can also absorb co2 using sodium carbonate and decompose the bicarbonate in boiling water (or faster at a higher temperature ) this can be automated you can just get a barrel of it with a air pump and feed it into a heater or heat exchanger with co2 capture (or just brew some beer to get the co2)
you might try a graphite crucible in the induction coil instead, it goes way hotter. or straight up a arc furnace with gouging rods they are insane at converting electrical energy to heat but might cause contamination due to its copper coating
Instead of calcium carbonate you could still use backing soda, sodium bicarbonate decomposes to sodium carbonate and co2 at lower temps and the spent sodium carbonate will absorb atmospheric co2 over time.
Siporex would, I think, be a great material for this sort of relatively low temp furnace. It is a Swedish invention and is basically foamy concrete. It is surprisingly light, the density is about half that of water, so it's actually concrete that floats! Siporex is easy to shape and work with hand tools like wood saws and drills. It has great insulation properties, the thermal conductivity is 0.144 W/m °C compared to high density refractor materials which have a K factor in the ball park of 1.2 - 1.4 W/m °C. It has a melting point of 1600 °C and it is cheap as chips so if it does not last long it does not matter.
In theory you should be able to disolve the calcium oxide in water forming a calcium hydroxide solution. Then bubble air though that solution to carbonate the hydroxide again causing it to participate out as calcium carbonate again. So you could recycle all the product removing the need to collect seashells or aquire it otherwise. I don't know how long it takes to carbonate the hydroxide with the comparatively low partial pressure of co2 in our atmosphere but it would essentially be free. The high solubility of co2 in water should help capture it from the air to make it faster than just leaving the hydroxide to air-carbonate. Great Video 👍
7:50 A Ballmill would work GREAT, and be a great OS Project to help others. Could even make the process for this (Semi-) Automated! (Dump shells into bin+feeder, or just into the mill, it does the rest and spits out powder + has a co2 line/compressor!)
Camera shows slightly pink because most camera sensors can pick up a bit of near infrared. This shows up as a pink/purple. You can see this by pointing a TV remote at the camera and watching the IR led flicker.
The glowing metal looks pink on your camera because almost all cameras can see a bit of infrared. Only when it's really bright IR that it becomes apparent in video, and something really hot would of course release a lot of IR
My class teacher (who did some chemistry lessons too) Had this large jug of shells and added some water plus a chemical I didn't recall. It was really violet and ended up with no shells left. This must have been 6th or 7th grade and really changed my view on how a bunch of stuff around you is just strongly bounded other stuff.
I bet it glowed pink on camera because of how much infra red it was emitting. It looks to me as the same color you see when you point your phone camera at the TV remote or an IR night vision camera's light. Some camera's have an IR filter though
NASA uses LiOH to scrub CO2 into Li2CO3 which decomposes into Li2O +CO2 in 600-900C which could enable your process in lower temperature. Most price effective would be buying carbonate because others are only available in "super pure" versions
One possible cheap method to increase your gaseous CO2 storage would be to purchase a larger pool inflatable or more simply an air mattress. With additional props of the air mattress beings it’s slightly more accommodating fill valve.
Resistive heating is definitely the way to go. Kanthal wire is not expensive and can go up to 1400 C which should be plenty for that reaction. And you don't even need a special driver circuit, just a coil of the appropriate length which can then be plugged directly into the mains.
a lot of hobby assay furnaces can get up to around 900c and higher and can be found for around 400-500 for a okay model, they can be used as a resistive heater as well cause a lot of them have a opening in the top to allow for gases to escape, or you can always drill one in and run a copper pipe through
I loved your video playing around with the concept of making a portable microwave using rechargeable batteries in a metal lunch box. If done right, that could be a really useful item to have in outdoor/ camping situations. I hope to see further future versions of it. There are a lot of useful things someone could use something like that for when stuck out in the wilderness or just during emergencies where you'd have that option in tandem with some charging sources. Such as back up power banks, or running your car, or maybe even a solar power setup? Idk just seems like a handy survival creation. (BTW I'm not going to try to make one. Don't worry. I know I'm not capable and i respect the risks that are there if someone doesn't know what they are doing)
You said firebrick is invisible to magnetic field but when I made a metal detector (~30kHz) it could detect ceramic mug. Maybe there are some losses in ceramic at higher frequencies.
I wonder if the ethylene reactor from the cryocooler series could be retrofitted with the induction heater for more precise control of the reaction temperature
Thanks for the upload, I’m a big fan. Congrats on the sponsorship, it’s a big milestone! For camping I like to dissolve styrofoam into gasoline and use the resulting paste to more easily start campfires.
You could build something like an enclosure with 1 or 2 magnetrons, inside of it a silicium carbid bowl (there some good videos on how to make it from sic powder and water glass). It needs to be covered in insulating materials, alot of people use that high temp wool thingy i think made from ceramic fibers. It gets very hot, people use it to fuse glass or melt metals inside a microwave. Maybe outside one you can even improve the effectiveness of it, for example i read that people take the glass plate out and it heats up faster cause there. But at the same time if the microwave kiln is not spinning it doesnt get even heated.
Microwave heaters can get hotter, as long as either the workpiece itself or the crucible are absorbent and not transparent or reflective to microwave frequencies. I do not know whether calcium carbonate would be susceptible
I would point out that you can buy big bags of slaked lime for a few dollars, and it has other uses. Or buy limestone of course.Though the bulk price of baking soda is not that bad for minimal effort and you can use low heat instead of vinegar. Or if you split water you could just use the pure oxygen to burn carbon with minimal water or nitrogen involved. But hey, I guess seashells are more interesting. Just not universally common.
@@ZeroPlayerGame It's a cycle. You burn limestone to emit CO2 and get quicklime, you slake it with water to get slaked lime, and you let the wet slaked lime absorb atmospheric co2 over time to get back to the beginning.
the lime process is regenerable because slaked lime in water will pull co2 out of the air to reform calcium carbonate, which you can crush and re-heat. he doesn't need to continuously obtain lime.
If you want to stick with electric heating you could use microwaves to heat the pipe. I have a small microwave kiln use for firing pottery and melting glass, not sure what modification you would need as my kiln has a layer of tungsten carbide for capturing the waves.
The camera shows pink because of the infrared light being emitted from the heat source. The infrared light gets picked up by the camera sensor and is displayed purple on the monitor.
My 15kw induction forge definitely gets up to white hot for steel; I'm not sure what else they do to get that but it'll melt steel if I leave it in too long, so I definitely think you can get your induction system up to the point you need. I think you might also be having trouble with heat transfer in it; maybe something to rotate the shells inside so they can contact the walls better?
Why not make a mains voltage ZVS driver? That way you don’t have to worry about your 12V PSU only being rated to 12A. Though you might need to have a lot more output windings, if not a step-down transformer. I’d look into using dedicated gate drive ICs too, get ones rated for 1-2A, and put totem-poles after them to drive 10A in and out of the gates with a nice square wave to minimise switching losses.
The camera has a non-optimal IR sensor in front of the sensor. The high amount of IR reaching the sensor is causing it to register also as blue, as the color filters are not optimized to block out IR radiation. Buy a high quality IR filter (e.g., from B+W) and put it in front of the camera, to avoid damaging the camera sensor. There's also a lot of heat introduced to the camera sensor if you don't do this.
As someone who is absolutely not a chemist, that was an interesting demonstration of the calcium acetate burning. I wonder if some lime were mixed in would that create a useful light source, or does the acetate not burn hot enough? Also if you are looking for MOSFETs that don't burn easily I recommend the 47N60. It's a beast.
Probably not. Lime on its own isn't flammable, however it could (maybe?) work if you added a CO2 source like carbon in the mixture, which may react with the lime to form additional calcium acetate, which would then burn the acetone from the acetate. However I am not sure if enough carbon would react with the lime to make any significant improvement compared with only calcium acetate. Interesting idea though, definitely worth some experimentation if you are interested though. The setup cost is a walk to the beach and a campfire 😂
Two thoughts (maybe already below but tl;dr, apologies if redundant) - It looks like you had high-strength firebrick; insulating (lightweight) firebrick is much softer and easy to cut. - Couldn’t you just make a coil with two layers of “windings” in parallel (or should it be series)? That should give you a higher field and also let you go back to a bigger capacitor, which should give you higher current and this even more current. (OTOH, there’s probably a really good reason why I’ve only ever seen single-wound work coils.)
I believe @nilered did a video on using eggshells to make acetone. If I recall correctly, eggshells are more or less calcium carbonate as well (though you have to clean the shells and remove the membranes) this might be useful if you eat a lot of eggs.
5:40 these 100K resistors nor the 1k pull-up aren't needed and probably neither are the diodes as the totem pole transistors arrangement strangle themselves on the base witch is kinda cool. Without knowing i have send you the Weighbridge oscillator, using a hi power opamp and a inverting config to drive the mosfets and also less parts.
Look at one of the import bench top foundry furnaces that people use to melt small amount of gold and silver. That may work better than the homebrew induction heater. Alternatively, source some Kanthal wire and wind your own.
4:04 The pink color in the camera most probably comes from infrared radiation. You can confirm this by filming an infrared source, such as the LED of a remote control. It will appear as a pink/purple light, even though every normal camera has an infrared filter inside.
I am surprised you couldn't get the inductor heater hot enough and that it killed the mosfets. I hope you can come up with a way to make the induction heating work because I really like induction heating.
Shouldn't fermentation be the absolute cheapest way to produce CO2? With just a few hundred grams of brewers yeast and a good few pounds of sugar you could generate hundreds of liters of CO2 in a couple weeks. It also yields ethanol as the byproduct of course (but the result will be hardly drinkable if your main objective is to maximize CO2 production).
Man you really went about it the tough way.....may i offer you the idea of fermentation? Hypothetically if you have a sealed large metal cylinder of grass clippings, toss in some cellulase and after the process is done. Chuck in some yeast you should have a process that's both easier and delivers the c02 you need.
4:14 c’mon you’re one of the smartest guys on RUclips , the ir filter in the optics of your camera and the dsp make it pink instead of the real orange you see.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
FYI the purple colour of the glowing pipe is your camera picking up infra red emission. An IR cut filter, often used in astrophotography, wil block the IR and remove the purple glow.
Cool!
Yeah, was gonna say, this is something that I thought most phones solved well over a decade ago, but apparently even flagship androids still don't have IR filters for some reason. Even my old $300 iphone from 7 years ago has an IR filter to ensure the colors are not distorted by overloaded IR sources.... compared against my $900 pixel and still that ugly pinkish purple glow shows up whenever I film things like fireplaces or candles.
@@StormBurnX All digital cameras have IR filters, except night vision cameras or else colors would be off. Some just have better quality filters.
You can use this phenomenon to see if your TV remote is working properly or not.
Although most cameras have IR filtering to some extent they usually let some through. An IR cut filter block all of it. I've had the problem and cured it with said filter. I recall it was a cheap svbony IR and UV cut filter from Amazon, which only let's visible light through.
Rest in peace to all those brave mosfets.
I have a cardboard box bearing a 3d printed RIP tombstone, to entomb components fallen in battle
An absolute win for fab wizards adding magic smoke
Don't forget bobofet! He took it like a champ.
Lol!😭😂
I work for a large brewery, and we capture CO2 from fermentation. We run it through a scrubber and liquefy it with an NH3/R717 refrigeration system on an industrial scale. And then we sell that too (next to some buffering and internal usage). If you're looking for CO2 sources and interesting side products...
Anyway, thank you for your fun videos! I really enjoy watching them.
This sounds like the perfect, er, home-brew setup!
Oh, that sounds like just the thing to recommend, only need groceries and no high temperatures.
can turn the ethanol into ethylene
@@among-us-99999 Or turn the ethanol into stacks of cash, fabulous parties and lots of friends.
This man is finding new and creative ways to avoid going to a store while burning electronics and I'm all for it.
Where I'm from dry ice is a bit of a pain to buy but I can buy a 20kg cylinder of CO2 off of eBay and have it posted to my door.
Should really practice my braising / plumbing because your skill is truly astonishing.
There's a good chance that you can take your own red cylinder and have the local firefighters fill it with CO2 for free. They'll probably get suspicious if you come back for a top-up more than once or twice a year, though.
I had a thought for constructing your firebrick surroundings for the pipe furnace. There is a really cheap type of cement you can get for constructing custom firebrick shapes. I've used it for making ornaments for sitting in campfires for collecting and reflecting heat. I found it on Amazon as Castable Refractory Cement.
To the top you go! Even hyperspace pirates need info on low tech practical solutions!
You can make your own castable refractory cement quite cheaply. Take unscented kitty litter and grind it to a fine powder (wear a mask). Kitty litter is bentonite clay, and the unscented stuff is pure clay because there's no perfume. Mix the fine powder with water, and it can be cast as a solid brick, used as a mortar, or used as a surface coating.
Plaster of paris can also work for the purpose.
Love projects like this. It’s not terribly useful, economical or quick, but it’s COOL. I enjoy doing this type of stuff because I can, and I find it relaxing. Awesome video!
One day it will be good to have done this homework, it's just a matter of where and when. Go HP!
@@cherylm2C6671 absolutely! My main hobby is collecting skills and information that would be useful if someday the supply chain fails and we can’t rely on foreign industry for essential products. Even if something isn’t economically viable now it may well be in the future.
@@chemistryofquestionablequa6252 Not sure if it's more about local economics or getting a waste product into the Hydrogen economy. Mass quantities have to keep ships running to all the global emergencies.
I think I figured out why your induction furnace might be temperature limited. Hysteresis loss in the ferromagnetic iron pipe you're using allows it absorbs the circuit's energy really well. So, one could conjecture that the iron pipe you're using significantly loses it's ability to absorb energy from the circuit above its curie temperature (770C for carbon steel and just over a 1000C for pure iron), leading to the temperature "stalling" at 900C. Heating does occur above that temperature, just nowhere near as efficiently as before since it's now solely driven by eddy currents. Circuit redesign time I guess?
I agree with this. You can see this demonstration in induction forging where the iron billet will fall through the magnetic field after it becomes cherry red.
My college capstone project was designing a cement mine and I was in charge of the aggregate and processing (I’m not a chemical engineer or a chemist so I had no clue what was going on).
Modern Portland cement is still basically lime and some other fun additives. Particle size is very important at every step, which is what I was focusing on (due to an issue with our data, we could not get accurate mineral estimations and thus couldn’t do anything with the chemistry). All the research I had done discussed the importance of the additives and mineralogical makeup of the rock but not the basics of the chemistry.
But despite days of research, your tiny blurb about limestone and mortar made everything click.
The rest of the video was good too I guess.
Regarding the ZVS circuit, you can increase the efficiency a bunch by altering the gate driver topology slightly. As you've built it, the BJTs will operate in the linear region, which means you've got a voltage drop between the gate and the rail (0V or your gate drive voltage), on top of your 10Ω series resistor (minus the momentary impedance of the two caps). You may also be operating closer to the SOA limits during switching due to the Miller effect, which is likely to be quite significant in the context of ZVS.
There's a better option - look up the video "Revisiting MOSFET push pull gate driver" by Sam Ben-Yaakov. He shows a MOSFET push-pull driver design that works by adding split gate resistance (higher resistance to gate drive voltage, lower to ground) and using small MOSFETs instead of the BJTs. That gets you the best of all worlds - no voltage drop in the driver transistors, optimised for reducing Miller effect and avoiding self-turn-on issues, and any push-pull driver shoot-through will go through the gate resistors and heavily reduce the current. I've used it to great effect in scenarios where I can't use a dedicated gate driver IC. It's very fast and super efficient.
One thing to note, though, is that all of these gate drivers are sensitive to parasitic inductance, because the drive current is a few amps and the switching time is very short (nanoseconds). Avoid stripboard, go for a proper PCB, ideally 4 layers with a sig/gnd/gnd/sig stackup (JLCPCB do them laughably cheap these days). You want a really small current loop between your drivers and your gate, ideally with a solid ground plane underneath and local capacitance sat as close to the driver FETs as you can get it. That keeps all the dI/dt in a small area, with a really low impedance power delivery network.
Seashell decomposition is also reversible, after you convert CaCO3 to CaO, make Ca(OH)2 in water and pass air through it. Hydroxide will trap CO2 from air turning it back into limestone. After evaporating water CaCO3 should be left ready to another batch of decomposition closing cycle. This way basic CO2 scrubber can be made.
Just how my expencive ROCK CRAKING EXPANDO lime oxide has gon off . To much air co2 sucking .
4:11 "camera shows it as slightly pink"
Probably because camera capturing infrared light.
The calcium oxide or quick lime will absorb CO2 from the atmosphere if you spread it out thinly and let it dry, the cementation process is literally driven by absorbing CO2, it can then go through the process of being burnt again to capture more CO2. I don't know if there's any losses but I'm fairly confident that it's mostly a lossless process in terms of the lime.
If u dont burn the lime stone at over 900 deg c.
4:10 Camera sensor is sensitive to a wider spectrum than just the visible light, and they typically have a wavelength band pass filter on the sensor itself or on the lenses, but that filter only gets you so far.
If you have a source of broad spectrum light strong enough, some of IR and UV makes it to the camera sensor and gets registered, and IR triggering red plus UV triggering blue, makes magenta.
I dont think there is any substantial amount of UV produced, as the spectrum does not even contain enough blue yet to appear white. It would need to be way hotter than that.
Also: so far, every camera i've seen picked up IR as pink
The human eye has a frequency response bump for the "red" cones high up in the violet area, which is why red+blue appears as purple. I suspect something like that happens with camera sensors, which is why strong IR appears as fuchsia instead of just red. But in their case the blue filters are letting in a little IR.
As far as I understand, this is generally true, except, red pixels in a display wouldn't be able to reproduce more "red" red, which means, even if the camera picks it up, a screen wouldn't be able to reproduce it without usilising blue component.
So maybe it's a quirk of the inner workings of a camera sensor, that more "red" red, is processed as magenta, and the electronics part of it actually convert "very red" as red with some blue.
So, I would highly suggest using potassium carbonate/bicarbonate to concentrate CO2. This is often used in direct air capture, and you don't need to reach such high temperatures. You can collect CO2 from the air at sub 90C by letting the potassium carbonate turn into potassium bicarbonate. You then heat it above 90C to release the CO2. Search online to find the vapor pressures, some recent papers cover this. With this method you can concentrate CO2 from the air a lot more easily than via calcination since much lower temperatures are possible. Unfortunately, it can take some time for CO2 to be reabsorbed and to extract all the CO2 you want, but you can speed these processes up with agitation. Good luck!
This is a good idea, although since you'd be decomposing the bicarbonate, you would need to account for the water produced. You could add an inline drying tube packed with pellets of a dessicant in order to dry the CO2. I'd recommend using calcium chloride as the drying agent because it does not react with CO2, comes in pellet form, and has excellent drying power even at low % humidity.
Nichrome wire for heating is extremely cheap, and I hit 1050C with it easily. Lookup diy electric forges. Naked brass screw terminals are very convenient for connecting to nichrome wire.
The only creator who's commercials I don't skip lol
Potter here. I burn eggshells to make CaO which I use as a flux (lowers silica melting point and makes a strong, durable glass, its awesome.) anyway, I could totally see some easy modifications to a kiln (electric) to fit a copper chamber inside to do this. There are small ones that run on 15-20amp breakers, same as test forges or knife ovens, but usually insulated a bit better designed to stay on longer. you'd have no trouble getting it hot enough. and modern digital controllers just make it as easy as a toaster oven.
that sponsorship transition is what should be shown in publicity classes arround the world. An easy 10/10.
Your entire compressed gas series has been great fun, asI've been looking into a system by which gasses could be collected differentially after a pyrolysis, and this might just be the method to use honestly. Feel free to steal that idea and try it with a mixture of gasses, I'm curious if/how well they could be cold distilled so to speak.
Drop pressure in the pipe - according to graph you've shown that also drops the required temperature. More powerful induction heater might also help...
04:12 - IR light looks "pink" in most digital cameras. This is specially true of very cheap ones when you remove the IR filter from the lens OR even good cameras with a decent filter, if the source is hot enough.
It's actually kinda cool you can make the cheap version (active illumination) of night-vision with just some IR leds and a cheap webcam
6:35 I howled baboon laughter for over a minute after the "all the worst people on earth seem to be hanging out in my living room" remark
I think you might be running into the curie temperature for steel/iron. I would be willing to bet that your max temp is right around 770c
Honestly one of my favorite channels. Your delivery and pace is so fun to sit back and enjoy. Bro makes some of the coolest shit on youtube
Agree. Dudes a stud
never been happier to see a creator get a sponsor
I hope you mean the new "MAPP" gas. The old stuff (which was even hotter) was banned around 10-20 years ago (time flies), and is basically impossible to find, except sitting in people's garages. I don't remember the details, just the general story.
You can also absorb co2 using sodium carbonate and decompose the bicarbonate in boiling water (or faster at a higher temperature ) this can be automated you can just get a barrel of it with a air pump and feed it into a heater or heat exchanger with co2 capture (or just brew some beer to get the co2)
you might try a graphite crucible in the induction coil instead, it goes way hotter. or straight up a arc furnace with gouging rods they are insane at converting electrical energy to heat but might cause contamination due to its copper coating
Instead of calcium carbonate you could still use backing soda, sodium bicarbonate decomposes to sodium carbonate and co2 at lower temps and the spent sodium carbonate will absorb atmospheric co2 over time.
Siporex would, I think, be a great material for this sort of relatively low temp furnace.
It is a Swedish invention and is basically foamy concrete.
It is surprisingly light, the density is about half that of water, so it's actually concrete that floats!
Siporex is easy to shape and work with hand tools like wood saws and drills.
It has great insulation properties, the thermal conductivity is 0.144 W/m °C compared
to high density refractor materials which have a K factor in the ball park of 1.2 - 1.4 W/m °C.
It has a melting point of 1600 °C and it is cheap as chips so if it does not last long it does not matter.
What you can do with seashells and heat is blowing my mind.
you could get the furnace hotter by buying or making a forge
In theory you should be able to disolve the calcium oxide in water forming a calcium hydroxide solution. Then bubble air though that solution to carbonate the hydroxide again causing it to participate out as calcium carbonate again. So you could recycle all the product removing the need to collect seashells or aquire it otherwise. I don't know how long it takes to carbonate the hydroxide with the comparatively low partial pressure of co2 in our atmosphere but it would essentially be free. The high solubility of co2 in water should help capture it from the air to make it faster than just leaving the hydroxide to air-carbonate. Great Video 👍
Calcium oxide (quicklime) is also useful. You can make refractory cement with it.
7:50 A Ballmill would work GREAT, and be a great OS Project to help others.
Could even make the process for this (Semi-) Automated!
(Dump shells into bin+feeder, or just into the mill, it does the rest and spits out powder + has a co2 line/compressor!)
Camera shows slightly pink because most camera sensors can pick up a bit of near infrared. This shows up as a pink/purple. You can see this by pointing a TV remote at the camera and watching the IR led flicker.
The lime decomposition is similar to how calcium carbide is formed. That stuff was used in early car headlights and in mining/caving lamps.
The glowing metal looks pink on your camera because almost all cameras can see a bit of infrared. Only when it's really bright IR that it becomes apparent in video, and something really hot would of course release a lot of IR
My class teacher (who did some chemistry lessons too) Had this large jug of shells and added some water plus a chemical I didn't recall. It was really violet and ended up with no shells left.
This must have been 6th or 7th grade and really changed my view on how a bunch of stuff around you is just strongly bounded other stuff.
Soon, new antartica will be made by seashells and oil! Always a pleasure to read you Hyperspace Pirate.
Always a pleasure to see pure public utility.
I bet it glowed pink on camera because of how much infra red it was emitting. It looks to me as the same color you see when you point your phone camera at the TV remote or an IR night vision camera's light. Some camera's have an IR filter though
NASA uses LiOH to scrub CO2 into Li2CO3 which decomposes into Li2O +CO2 in 600-900C which could enable your process in lower temperature. Most price effective would be buying carbonate because others are only available in "super pure" versions
One possible cheap method to increase your gaseous CO2 storage would be to purchase a larger pool inflatable or more simply an air mattress. With additional props of the air mattress beings it’s slightly more accommodating fill valve.
Your slaked lime will then reabsorb CO2 from the air to make limestone again, which you can then drive off again.
Seriously underrated channel
backyard scientist does have a video about super height temp induction heater, maybe more powerful induction heater could bake seashells rip mosfets.
Resistive heating is definitely the way to go. Kanthal wire is not expensive and can go up to 1400 C which should be plenty for that reaction. And you don't even need a special driver circuit, just a coil of the appropriate length which can then be plugged directly into the mains.
LOL! That forth wall breakage as a segue to the sponsor spot got me good! :P
a lot of hobby assay furnaces can get up to around 900c and higher and can be found for around 400-500 for a okay model, they can be used as a resistive heater as well cause a lot of them have a opening in the top to allow for gases to escape, or you can always drill one in and run a copper pipe through
I loved your video playing around with the concept of making a portable microwave using rechargeable batteries in a metal lunch box. If done right, that could be a really useful item to have in outdoor/ camping situations. I hope to see further future versions of it. There are a lot of useful things someone could use something like that for when stuck out in the wilderness or just during emergencies where you'd have that option in tandem with some charging sources. Such as back up power banks, or running your car, or maybe even a solar power setup? Idk just seems like a handy survival creation. (BTW I'm not going to try to make one. Don't worry. I know I'm not capable and i respect the risks that are there if someone doesn't know what they are doing)
ANOTHER HYPERSPACE PIRATE POST
You said firebrick is invisible to magnetic field but when I made a metal detector (~30kHz) it could detect ceramic mug. Maybe there are some losses in ceramic at higher frequencies.
I wonder if the ethylene reactor from the cryocooler series could be retrofitted with the induction heater for more precise control of the reaction temperature
Thanks for the upload, I’m a big fan. Congrats on the sponsorship, it’s a big milestone! For camping I like to dissolve styrofoam into gasoline and use the resulting paste to more easily start campfires.
Redneck napalm !
You could build something like an enclosure with 1 or 2 magnetrons, inside of it a silicium carbid bowl (there some good videos on how to make it from sic powder and water glass).
It needs to be covered in insulating materials, alot of people use that high temp wool thingy i think made from ceramic fibers.
It gets very hot, people use it to fuse glass or melt metals inside a microwave. Maybe outside one you can even improve the effectiveness of it, for example i read that people take the glass plate out and it heats up faster cause there. But at the same time if the microwave kiln is not spinning it doesnt get even heated.
Microwave heaters can get hotter, as long as either the workpiece itself or the crucible are absorbent and not transparent or reflective to microwave frequencies. I do not know whether calcium carbonate would be susceptible
I really enjoy these projects. Fun at home with the Pirate.
I would point out that you can buy big bags of slaked lime for a few dollars, and it has other uses. Or buy limestone of course.Though the bulk price of baking soda is not that bad for minimal effort and you can use low heat instead of vinegar. Or if you split water you could just use the pure oxygen to burn carbon with minimal water or nitrogen involved.
But hey, I guess seashells are more interesting. Just not universally common.
Slaked lime is useless for CO2 production, though. It's more of a byproduct of this method.
@@ZeroPlayerGame It's a cycle. You burn limestone to emit CO2 and get quicklime, you slake it with water to get slaked lime, and you let the wet slaked lime absorb atmospheric co2 over time to get back to the beginning.
@@spaceminions ...I suppose, but you could also just use eggshells, or even rock if you live in a limestone geological area.
@@spaceminions You just designed a new form of CO2 sequestration.
the lime process is regenerable because slaked lime in water will pull co2 out of the air to reform calcium carbonate, which you can crush and re-heat. he doesn't need to continuously obtain lime.
If you want to stick with electric heating you could use microwaves to heat the pipe. I have a small microwave kiln use for firing pottery and melting glass, not sure what modification you would need as my kiln has a layer of tungsten carbide for capturing the waves.
give me 15min, I have to rewatch it again, your content is all that I need to watch! until next video then!
The camera shows pink because of the infrared light being emitted from the heat source. The infrared light gets picked up by the camera sensor and is displayed purple on the monitor.
I had no ide there was such interesting chemistry around sea shells
My 15kw induction forge definitely gets up to white hot for steel; I'm not sure what else they do to get that but it'll melt steel if I leave it in too long, so I definitely think you can get your induction system up to the point you need. I think you might also be having trouble with heat transfer in it; maybe something to rotate the shells inside so they can contact the walls better?
Most of your videos are 15+ minutes and I can watch them from start to finish..😂 You're doing some interesting content. I appreciate it, keep it up 🎉
What a neat concept!
You need to make a dry ice collection chamber with an output to collect the excess gas that isn't frozen
Yo dude, I love your videos so much. They so educational but so interesting.
Putting MOSFETs in parallel on a large heatsink will definitely help you...
Why not make a mains voltage ZVS driver? That way you don’t have to worry about your 12V PSU only being rated to 12A. Though you might need to have a lot more output windings, if not a step-down transformer. I’d look into using dedicated gate drive ICs too, get ones rated for 1-2A, and put totem-poles after them to drive 10A in and out of the gates with a nice square wave to minimise switching losses.
Have you considered trying to collect the CO2 from fermentation? You'll have bread and/or booze even if it doesn't work.
The camera has a non-optimal IR sensor in front of the sensor. The high amount of IR reaching the sensor is causing it to register also as blue, as the color filters are not optimized to block out IR radiation.
Buy a high quality IR filter (e.g., from B+W) and put it in front of the camera, to avoid damaging the camera sensor. There's also a lot of heat introduced to the camera sensor if you don't do this.
In my country we call CaO of cal and is/was used in the interior south region to paint houses. It's called caiar.
If you put that carbon dioxide snow in a sock you can put on some gloves and squeeze it like a snowball or step on it to get harder denser ice
As someone who is absolutely not a chemist, that was an interesting demonstration of the calcium acetate burning. I wonder if some lime were mixed in would that create a useful light source, or does the acetate not burn hot enough?
Also if you are looking for MOSFETs that don't burn easily I recommend the 47N60. It's a beast.
Probably not. Lime on its own isn't flammable, however it could (maybe?) work if you added a CO2 source like carbon in the mixture, which may react with the lime to form additional calcium acetate, which would then burn the acetone from the acetate. However I am not sure if enough carbon would react with the lime to make any significant improvement compared with only calcium acetate. Interesting idea though, definitely worth some experimentation if you are interested though. The setup cost is a walk to the beach and a campfire 😂
For higher temps try a microwave kiln
I love this stuff, make more!
Mix the dry snow with water and voila! Club soda.
Two thoughts (maybe already below but tl;dr, apologies if redundant)
- It looks like you had high-strength firebrick; insulating (lightweight) firebrick is much softer and easy to cut.
- Couldn’t you just make a coil with two layers of “windings” in parallel (or should it be series)? That should give you a higher field and also let you go back to a bigger capacitor, which should give you higher current and this even more current. (OTOH, there’s probably a really good reason why I’ve only ever seen single-wound work coils.)
In theory what you can do is leaving the calcium oxide in open air and it will pull carbon dioxide from the air, regenerating it.
Best Add/Commercial skit, ever. Hilarious
4:08 it's pink because your camera sees near inferred light which blue color filters don't block
I believe @nilered did a video on using eggshells to make acetone. If I recall correctly, eggshells are more or less calcium carbonate as well (though you have to clean the shells and remove the membranes) this might be useful if you eat a lot of eggs.
Im always inspired by these videos
that warcraft 3 screen on sponsor ad was perfect
5:40 these 100K resistors nor the 1k pull-up aren't needed and probably neither are the diodes as the totem pole transistors arrangement strangle themselves on the base witch is kinda cool. Without knowing i have send you the Weighbridge oscillator, using a hi power opamp and a inverting config to drive the mosfets and also less parts.
Props on the surfshark intro 🤣🤣🤣👍
Just trying to throw in a vote for the hho torch as a heat source....just wanna see it happen thanks love your channel
Look at one of the import bench top foundry furnaces that people use to melt small amount of gold and silver. That may work better than the homebrew induction heater. Alternatively, source some Kanthal wire and wind your own.
4:12 the reason your camera picks up the orange glow as pink is the infrared radiation isn’t getting filtered by your camera’s sensor
4:04 The pink color in the camera most probably comes from infrared radiation. You can confirm this by filming an infrared source, such as the LED of a remote control. It will appear as a pink/purple light, even though every normal camera has an infrared filter inside.
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"Mooooooomm!!! Hyperspace pirate is doing thermodynamics again!"
love your work and presentation
Floridaman empties beaches of seashells to fund his funny snow collection
I am surprised you couldn't get the inductor heater hot enough and that it killed the mosfets. I hope you can come up with a way to make the induction heating work because I really like induction heating.
Shouldn't fermentation be the absolute cheapest way to produce CO2? With just a few hundred grams of brewers yeast and a good few pounds of sugar you could generate hundreds of liters of CO2 in a couple weeks. It also yields ethanol as the byproduct of course (but the result will be hardly drinkable if your main objective is to maximize CO2 production).
Man you really went about it the tough way.....may i offer you the idea of fermentation?
Hypothetically if you have a sealed large metal cylinder of grass clippings, toss in some cellulase and after the process is done. Chuck in some yeast you should have a process that's both easier and delivers the c02 you need.
4:14 c’mon you’re one of the smartest guys on RUclips , the ir filter in the optics of your camera and the dsp make it pink instead of the real orange you see.
rewire a mot for high current low voltage, get some 6v batts and get re rods and build an furnace....
So that's why we put things into the limelight.