Thanks man, found your video after i was just about to begin my shift today and went to wind the 2 front windows up, they were about 1/3 of the way down and a no go, got home took switch apart, just cleaned everything with alcohol wipes, put back in and wound the windows up, doesnt work now but windows are up and can park car anywhere while i order the part 👍
Thanks for this video. All four of my windows stopped working at the same time, and when it wasnt a relay or a fuse, i thought about the switch and read online that its a common problem. Just followed this video but also sanded the contacts with 400 grit sandpaper until the 3 little lines were gone. Hopefully this holds up.
I did this today after servicing the motor and finding it STILL didn't work! Decided to take the window switch to bits like you did here, but I did things a little differently: I got a dremel and attached a little wire brush wheel to it. I cleaned every one of the rockers and all of the contacts, then cleaned the board with alcohol. I also noticed some of the contacts had ablated and worn over time - particularly the driver's window - so I reflowed those and added a little more solder, and also tinned the rockers with a bit of solder. You have to be careful doing this because you want to leave those surfaces smooth and free of solder spikes, so you have to have it hot enough that the solder is still liquid when you pull the iron away. Seems to work really nice! There was so much carbon build-up on it when I opened it to check!
Had the same problem on my Terri a few months back. Went through exactly the same steps and got the same positive result, but after a while the problem returned. That's happened twice now, but I'll try for a third time as I'm loath to give Ford around $180 for a replacement switch that can be picked up new on the internet for around $30.
Hopefully my fix will last a while. The cheap ebay one broke after a few months. That's why I got the old one back out. Not sure what i will do if it keeps happening.
With me it was a combination of carbon build-up in the motor (which I fixed like this: ruclips.net/video/PtWRIQf_dOE/видео.html ) and cleaning the switch contacts like you see in this video. The window worked fine for a few months after I serviced the motor, but it stopped again recently and it wasn't the motor this time (it was the contacts). I think those little motors draw a decent amount of power and so if the commutator is all clarted up with carbon and your switch contacts are dirty, both things conspire to stop your windows from working. Maybe try cleaning your motor? If you do though, don't make the mistake I did: make sure you seal the unit with silicon or something because the existing rubber gasket will NOT continue to work and will let water in.
Had a replacement Master window switch fitted 4-5years ago( didnt realise the genuine OEM versions work so expensive) , worked fine until the following afternoon i noticed the drivers window WOULDN'T wind down when i started Territory. Would have to turn car off then start up again for Window to wind down like normal 🤦🏽🤦🏽🤦🏽 today ( 04/12/23 ) the switch for rear right side decided to do what your Drivers switch had done... Even the Master window lock just failed - like the switch physically didnt work or feel connected to anything lol
Thanks man, found your video after i was just about to begin my shift today and went to wind the 2 front windows up, they were about 1/3 of the way down and a no go, got home took switch apart, just cleaned everything with alcohol wipes, put back in and wound the windows up, doesnt work now but windows are up and can park car anywhere while i order the part 👍
Thanks for this video. All four of my windows stopped working at the same time, and when it wasnt a relay or a fuse, i thought about the switch and read online that its a common problem. Just followed this video but also sanded the contacts with 400 grit sandpaper until the 3 little lines were gone. Hopefully this holds up.
I did this today after servicing the motor and finding it STILL didn't work! Decided to take the window switch to bits like you did here, but I did things a little differently: I got a dremel and attached a little wire brush wheel to it. I cleaned every one of the rockers and all of the contacts, then cleaned the board with alcohol. I also noticed some of the contacts had ablated and worn over time - particularly the driver's window - so I reflowed those and added a little more solder, and also tinned the rockers with a bit of solder. You have to be careful doing this because you want to leave those surfaces smooth and free of solder spikes, so you have to have it hot enough that the solder is still liquid when you pull the iron away. Seems to work really nice! There was so much carbon build-up on it when I opened it to check!
Nice work. Hadn't thought about that.
Had the same problem on my Terri a few months back. Went through exactly the same steps and got the same positive result, but after a while the problem returned. That's happened twice now, but I'll try for a third time as I'm loath to give Ford around $180 for a replacement switch that can be picked up new on the internet for around $30.
Hopefully my fix will last a while. The cheap ebay one broke after a few months. That's why I got the old one back out. Not sure what i will do if it keeps happening.
@@economicmind9802 We'll both keep our fingers crossed that the fix is permanent!
With me it was a combination of carbon build-up in the motor (which I fixed like this: ruclips.net/video/PtWRIQf_dOE/видео.html ) and cleaning the switch contacts like you see in this video. The window worked fine for a few months after I serviced the motor, but it stopped again recently and it wasn't the motor this time (it was the contacts). I think those little motors draw a decent amount of power and so if the commutator is all clarted up with carbon and your switch contacts are dirty, both things conspire to stop your windows from working. Maybe try cleaning your motor? If you do though, don't make the mistake I did: make sure you seal the unit with silicon or something because the existing rubber gasket will NOT continue to work and will let water in.
@@IainFraser81 Thanks Iain, I'll keep that in mind , if there's a next time.
There's a reason why it costs $30... 👀
Would have been good to see or hear what way the little contacts go on spikey side up or down..
Had a replacement Master window switch fitted 4-5years ago( didnt realise the genuine OEM versions work so expensive) , worked fine until the following afternoon i noticed the drivers window WOULDN'T wind down when i started Territory. Would have to turn car off then start up again for Window to wind down like normal 🤦🏽🤦🏽🤦🏽 today ( 04/12/23 ) the switch for rear right side decided to do what your Drivers switch had done... Even the Master window lock just failed - like the switch physically didnt work or feel connected to anything lol
Try lubricating the window tracks, as the extra resistance can cause this exact problem.
Good tip. Thanks. Just did that and windows seem to run better.
How did u get the contact parts to stay in place? Every time I fit it into case they jump out of place 😢😢😢😢
Hi there. From memory it was a bit fiddly getting it lined up and slotting the top back on. It might have taken a couple of tries.
Brilliant work .. .thank you for your effort! :)
How long did the fix last?
So far so good. I am hopeful will last a while longer
@@economicmind9802 Just did the job! Lets see how it goes