*Here are some of the reference links I mentioned in the video that will help teach you more about installing DIY solar and electrical in a camper:* Blog Post, Parts List & Wiring Diagram: www.explorist.life/diy-solar-electric-install-on-a-1976-airstream-argosy/ Andy’s Accompanying Video: ruclips.net/video/cdpPbDibDds/видео.html Andy’s RUclips Channel: ruclips.net/user/andyrawls Andy’s Website: andyrawls.com/ EXPLORIST.life Merch: teespring.com/stores/exploristlife How to Perform a Power Audit: ruclips.net/video/a406IxiU-Xg/видео.html Basic Parts & Components of an Electrical System: ruclips.net/video/xuZg4NasCVw/видео.html Similar System w/ Alternator Charging: www.explorist.life/3000w-inverter-400-600ah-400-to-1200w-solar-camper-solar-kit Smaller System w/ Alternator Charging: www.explorist.life/2000w-inverter-200-400ah-lithium-200-to-700w-solar-camper-wiring-diagram/ How to Cut Wire: www.explorist.life/how-to-cut-wire/ How to Strip Wire: ruclips.net/video/ca45dL2X4SM/видео.htmlHow to Crimp Wire: ruclips.net/video/JmiX2XW48F8/видео.html How to Make MC4 Connectors: ruclips.net/video/YFAKK491wj0/видео.html How to Read Voltage with a Multimeter: ruclips.net/video/Qvp0MN6mcmA/видео.html Securing Solar Panels to Roof (Andy’s Video): ruclips.net/video/ihAiioFAUv4/видео.html How to Wire Solar Panels in Series-Parallel: ruclips.net/video/b2H8vpj8rQg/видео.html How to Crimp Wire Ferrules: ruclips.net/video/h8CHAVmpPFw/видео.html How to Wire an AC/DC Breaker/Fuse Box: Victron BMV-712 Battle Born Settings: Victron Smartsolar MPPT Battle Born Settings: Here is a list of the MAIN components in the system: (4) Battle Born Lithium Batteries: (1) Victron Multiplus 3000 Inverter/Charger (1) Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150|75 Solar Charge Controller (1) Victron BMV-712 Smart Battery Monitor (1) Victron VE.Bus Smart Dongle (8) 100w Newpowa Monocrystalline Solar Panels
COOL, I'm going to up-grade my BBB this January to the Heated ones. I hope I can film this. I need to see what all I need to run my 2 x 1200 watts cooker/induction plate. What size inverter do I need? (2000, 2500, 3000) I do not have room for the big 3000 one you use.
I'd almost forgotten about this stuff.. lol, to reiterate my past I must say you've got really good research/organization skills that not only connect at a level I can understand but it saves me lots of time too. I say this b/c I'd done extensive research before finding you & right away I saw just how much info you'd packed in each video. I'm not yet ready to do anything w/ "Solar" but I've got your stuff bookmarked in it's own file, lol..... When last speaking to you I'd been stuck on the issues w/ batteries ; lead acid has downsides & the Lithium is too expensive..... but I've not checked on prices in the last 6-7 months but I'm optimistic that if the President is reelected that this bottleneck might loosen its grip? You do all around good work, whats not to like.... peace & be safe
@@RVingwithG Nice! I've been seeing people having good results with induction cooktops on the 3000w. Inverter: www.explorist.life/3000w-inverter-400-600ah-400-to-1200w-solar-camper-solar-kit
Nate, the time and effort to make this video and collaboration had to have been huge. Thank you for doing it. This video is one of the absolute best install explanations I've seen.
After a month of watching this video and looking over purchased diagrams from you, we just completed the install of our electrical system. It truly would not have felt possible without your resources, so just wanted to pop in and offer a sincere thank you for all your hard work and shared wisdom. You really are the bes!
In all honesty Nate, this is the most valuable video/set of videos I may have ever found on RUclips ever. I needed your help so badly, and I cannot thank you enough for empowering so many people, by opening doors to solar knowledge with the keys you have. Bless your soul, and I’ll be a huge fan and find ways to support for years to come. Thank you!
Super, Super video!!! Please keep them coming. Perfect timing as well since I am into doing almost the identical project and adding in an aux. alternator.
Is there a reason that almost every RV solar install video/tutorial you guys are always using 100W solar panels? Couldn't you have used 4 - 200W panels (or bigger) and made it much easier and take less roof space (to allow for expansion of more solar for the two extra batteries expansion he left in the wood box)?
I've watched this so many times in preparation for installing our van's electrical system and it helped so much! Thanks so much for all your hard work and for putting this together!
When connecting the battery monitor cable from the Victron BMV-712 to the (+) busbar on the Lynx Distributor, what do you do with all the extra wire? Do you leave it folded and tuck it into the Lynx Distributor? Thanks for the help.
Great suggestion. Added to 'videos to make' list. Battle Born recently released their self heating batteries: battlebornbatteries.com/product-category/lifepo4-batteries/heated-battery-kits/?afmc=explorist_bb67
I am setting up a solar system in my old rv 1993 fleetwood. I will be running a 48v battery system and was wondering what the typical amp draw is on the 12v side of the rv system. The victron 48v to 12v converter is a $100 difference between 20amp and 30amp. Is 20amp sufficient for a basic rv 12v system or would I need the 30 amp.
great video, even for those of us who've been installing these systems for years, something for all types of experiences to gain from this expert level of explanation, thank you!
I've watched all your videos and took notes to help me to collect and save what I need to do, I've watched this one a few times, I don't know if I somehow missed it or it went over my head 😂 and I am pretty positive that I understand how to do my wiring for my solar system I will be putting into my diy mini travel trailer. But I'm slightly confused about the set up that will combine with shore power and hooking up power outlets and a fridge. Do I or do I not use 10/3 romax wiring from a fuse box through my build and into the power outlets I need for my refrigerator, tv and other household appliances? Or do I only use that wiring to go from my shore power inlet to the fuse box blocks and then connect 12v wiring from everything to the power outlets? 🤔 I'm ready to start my installation process but stuck at this
@@stevenmullins9799 I have not been able to really continue on and figure it out yet...so much going on around here that I had to set it all aside until another day. But I'm still wondering and waiting for the answer.
But when it rains with hail,,,, do the solar panels withstand the hail bombardment? Thank you for the instructions, they are very useful,,, and congratulations on your achievements.
Indeed! If the hail is bad enough to damage the solar panels, it would also cause extensive body damage to the camper. In fact... solar panels are cheaper to replace than having to pay somebody for body-work on a camper.
Best video on setting up a lipo victron system, well done! Would love to see one with a nations alternator and dc/dc victron charger integrated in. Thanks much for sharing your knowledge.
Just running through your questions here: 1: Yes. Technically called 4/0 or 0000. Pernounced "Four Aught" 2: Yes. 3: Yes. Check pg 8 of the Multiplus user manual for verification. 4: Using watts law of Volts x Amps = Watts, you can see that by running a 3000W inverter at 12V; that would be 250A. 5: There's nothing wrong with 12V for this size of system.
Thanks for these videos. I am using them to build a 600w system for my off grid camp in Canada. Super helpful. You sold me on the lynx distributor and your high res diagram for the 2000w inverter system is what I am using as my guide (minus the shore power for my needs). Question for you - I read some material from Victron on grounding my system and I think I understand it. Would it make sense to run the chassis grounding in your diagram to an earth ground (ground rod) for my terrestrial setup. Essentially connecting the negative bus bar to an earth ground with appropriate sized wire?
Damn!! That is a damn, good job of explaining things in layman's terms so even I can understand it. Seriously thank you so much for your time well done! Just a guy from Texas named Rick Fort Worth baby!
As an educator... it would be irresponsible of me to say that a manufacturers recommendation 'doesn't matter', so thats up to you on how many corners you want to cut.
Hi Nate, Thank you for the very clear video, it helps a lot. I have a few questions so it's all clear to me. - You measured the current from your batteries and it was 13,6 V or so I believe, but you have a 12V system. How does this work, is this 12V just an average? - Why is a shunt places at the negative site of the busbar? Keep up the good work! Sofie
1: A 12V battery is just a 'nominal' rating. It's pretty much never operates at EXACTLY 12v. A 12V battery will operate anywhere from 10V to 14.6V depending on how charged the battery is, if the battery is being used, how fast the battery is being drained, or if the battery is being charged. 2: The Shunt must be between the battery bank and LITERALLY EVERYTHING ELSE on the negative side of the system to work. Mounting it to the negative side of the busbar satisfies this requirement, so that's what we did.
The shunt is connected to the negative side so the IR voltage drop it measures is also close to zero volts. Inside the BMV712 is an op-amp to amplify this tiny voltage, and it doesn't like to go all the way to the positive rail, so they chose the negative side. It's like measuring the height of a mountain, you can measure up from the base, or you could start at the top and measure down. Most likely you would start at the base.
Hey Nate: I recently received several Battle Born batteries, a 3000 w inverter charger, and a few accessories to install in my 2017 Coachmen Galleria. I've watched all the videos, but when I looked at the electrical inside my van, it all seems very overwhelming. I am wondering if you have any contacts in the Atlanta area who can help me with this install. Obviously, I'd be willing to pay. I'm overwhelmed.
Great video. Question: why wouldn’t the battery switch be ahead of the battery main fuse? Also, is there any issue with the performance of the electronics in the Victon equipment when shore power is 30 amp, 120 volt supplied from a generator? I only ask because a generator doesn’t supply power that is as clean and steady as utility company power typically is.
Hey Dwight! Thanks for watching! To my knowledge, there is not a code nor standard about main switch placement between the battery bank and the Lynx Distributor (Or whatever other distribution system you use). Generally, It's best for the main fuse to be the very first thing that power hits coming from the batteries so that if there is ANY issue at ANY point downstream, the fuse will protect it. But... to answer you specific question... it's doesn't make a LOT of difference one way or the other but in my particular diagrams and setup, the engineers at Victron were fine with the switch placement when I was working with them to make my diagrams. For the 'dirty' power from the Generator. The Victron components can handle it. Obviously, the better power you can have coming in, the better... but the Victron Multiplus has an internal setting that can compensate for generators that put out less-than-clean waves of power.
Wow, I watched a lot of DIY help videos before landing here and am so impressed by how thorough this information is. Thanks for putting this all together!
I plan on doing more full install videos like this in the upcoming year; and a 50A OEM RV is definitely on the menu. I can't promise anything on the price point though; I'll be using Battle Born Batteries & Victron components for these tutorials. Hopefully, though... you will still be able to use the principles I show to choose less expensive equipment if you so desire.
I like your reply! I have a credit card that didn't have much of a balance on it, so I started ordering parts and pieces over the internet (without worrying about funds), to build a quality Solar Power Generation system, much like the one Nate did here. By the time I was done, my balance on my Credit card was approximately $15,000.00. However, it was great fun, and it kept me out of the Bars at night!
Yeah. It'd be a totally different setup. Here is a 50A OEM RV Retrofit diagram: www.explorist.life/50a-camper-inverter-with-solar-alternator-charging-wiring-diagram/
Thank you for the reply, I appreciate it. Assuming I can just eliminate the alternator charging piece, being as this is for a travel trailer? Great videos and content. Extremely helpful!
The "northwest" battery will get more load than the "northeast" battery, due to major differences in the lengths of the red and black "crossover" cables. Ideally, each battery should have an equal total wire length. For installations where the loads will usually be small, it may not matter much.
Indeed. And hopefully I explained that good enough in the video. If we had an extra week on the project, I would have actually cut and drilled copper bar for the battery interconnects as we were ALSO dealing with clearance issues with the lid of the enclosure (I didn't bore you with that detail on camera). Ultimately the way will did it will be just fine for this use, but for those trying to mirror this project should definitely make an effort to mount batteries directly side by side. Not too bad, though, for a 2-day build.
Hello Nate. I have a non camper solar wiring question for you, if you would be so kind as to take a look. I have 20 each mission solar 415w panels. They are 48.81 open circuit voltage, 10.35 A rated current and 40.09 volts rated voltage. I plan to wire the into a Sol Ark 12k inverter. It's is rated for: MPPT voltage range 150-425v Max # of MPPT =2 Max solar strings per MPPT =2 Max DC current per MPPT 20A Starting voltage 125v. My question is would you recommend putting my panels in series in groups of 5 and then parallel 2 groups of 5 to one MPPT and the other 2 groups of 5 to the second MPPT? Your opinion would be greatly appreciated.
Great video!! very informative. I have a Ford Econoline van that has a AGM start battery wired to an AGM auxiliary battery (under the van) wired to a battery bank (two 100AH - AGM batteries) that have a ground cable attached to the chassis. I'm planning on installing (two 100W 12 volt solar panels), connected to a Victron Orion-TR Smart 12 12 30 DC DC Charger. Question: Do I need the (non-Isolated) or (Isolated) version of the Victron Orion-TR Smart 12 12 30 DC DC Charger? Also: should the location of the Victron Orion-TR Smart 12 12 30 DC DC Charge be placed between the auxiliary battery and the battery bank that will be receiving the charge from the solar panels?
I like most I want the max system but under 1000 for boondock. 200v on panels and 2-3000 inverter and at least 1 12v 100 70ah (I believe) LOL LITHIUM PHOSPHATE BATTERY. Spinning around in circles attempting to understand this Stuff... HELP?!
youre making the most comprehensive videos on this project.. BY FAR. As I attempted to wrap up my own project today, I realized that I hadn't comprehended that the Cerbo GX isn't the magical bluetooth connection that I thought It was from previous videos. Perhaps a video of what's important to be bluetoothed (and how) into the vicltron app for settings purposes, especially for apple users, as the ve.configure app seems to be strictly for Windows users...which makes the VRM option a bit prohibitive. Keep up the amazing work. I didn't even zap myself during this project!!
I purchased everything I need for a solar setup on my old camper, which I never installed. I have a new camper, but do not have any plans to install solar on it anytime soon. So, I have decided to make myself a really large uninterruptable power supply for the PC and Starlink in my new camper, which can later be modified for a solar setup in the future if I decide to do it. I'm afraid that if I don't put the batteries to use that they will eventually go bad. It's been close to 2 years since I purchased them. I intend to use 4x 100 AH LiFeP04 batteries wired to my Lynx Distributor and then connect my 2000w inverter to that. I plan to use a Smart Shunt, a 400a fuse and a kill switch between the battery bank and the distributor. I also have a Victron IP22 charger which will keep the battery bank fully charged while the shore power is connected and live (also connected to the distributor). All of this will be attached and contained using 80/20 to create a frame. My question is, do I really need a chassis ground in this scenario? It will be a portable unit, not a permanently attached system.
Hi Nate!!! You said the black and red SHOULD be the same length off the battery bank, but didn’t actually do that for the install due to the battery layout. For my install I am looking at 1’ red, 3’ black. I COULD coil up 2’ of extra red 2/0 if I must, what is the downside of having different lengths? THANKS!!!!!!
My fifth wheel has 50 amps shore power with a four wire cable how does that connect to the invertor? I am using the Victron PMP123021102 Multiplus 12/3000/120-50 120v VE Bus. Also I have an onboard generator with a seperate ATS how does that interconnect? Great video series really helped me understand the total setup, this is my first install with 6-200 watt panels and 6 battleborn batteries.. Thank You!!!!!!
Hi Nate, I purchased your wiring diagram and successfully in stalled 400 watts of solar, 400 amp hours of battleborn, 3000 watt inverter, etc. The only part I can't seem to find is the fr45 cable that runs from my victron multi control to the inverter. A "cat6" cable will fit the multi control, but I can't find the appropriate end for the inverter... I have left several messages for both victron and battleborn, but haven't heard back. Their installation manual says the cord can be found at HD or Lowes, but I have had no luck! Could you send a link to the cord I need to purchase ?? I would greatly appreciate it!! So excited to have this part finished! THANKS BUNCHES! KIM
Hello Nate I’m in the UK … I have two 120 watt panels I’m looking to wire together but don’t have all the specs to calculate a controller size … I have Wp =120. Vmp=18.6 Imp =6.45 Could you help .. I’m looking at the Victron controllers Would series wiring be best ? Many thanks Tony
I am doing a DYI install like this one for a friend on a 2021 Sprinter. Except for the ground to the chassis, will this set up work totally independent from the truck's electrical system? Thanks for sharing great video!!! I forgot, he is using a 2KW AIMS Inverter / Charger and a Renogy Rover 40AMP MPPT charge controller.
in 40 years, what is the app store going to look like? There will be programmers making apps to communicate with those fancy 2000's bluetooth and HTTP protocols. My Retro Terry Trailer from 1986 is 35 years old. Its getting harder to find instructions (but oddly not that hard, there's an enthusiastic online community) . Even My house fuse box is having difficulty finding fuses. It would be nice to have some buttons and switches to set settings. I guess I knw the answer: you replace individual components. But good components last forever. Besides, by then well have a wireless power and be driving in aircars. right?
I haven't finished the vid yet, but what do you have that will take shore power 1st over battery power or cell power? Or that take can take shore power to charge batteries while also powering a fan, for example. I am unsure of 1 or 2 of the things you wired up as I haven't seen them in other setups. But I'll look the stuff up on line to understand what all that these various parts do. It may be super basic to you but it would be helpful to explain why you did certain things and not other things. Like why wire in series to a certain point and then go parallel? Why have all 4 batteries connected rather than split the system so 2 batteries run only one or two things while the rest are powered by the other 2 batteries. More of a dedicated setup, perhaps. But I think I would prefer having my fridge-freezer with its own set of batteries. And all other things on another set of batteries. I would just prefer to not mess with the fridge, or be able to somehow mess up with the fridge by doing something stupid by draining all of the batteries because I forgot to turn off..... the heater, or the water heater, a cloths iron, something!!! etc, etc. (I'm a bit worried because I will be WAAYYYY OFF GRID. And do not need to drive 100+ miles to restock because the fridge was off for 18 hours! And it will be well over 110 many days! So I need the #@^& fridge to work---- RELIABLY!!! NO PROBLEMS. IT COULD BE LIFE OR DEATH!!! Most just mine, but still......) So it would be helpful for some if you explained why you did what you did, the advantages. But to explain alternative ways of doing something with the pros and cons! I hope to have all of my electrical system at about eye level, and easy to get to, with space to expand. I do not understand these tight, inconvenient, dark spaces, under things. Except for the battery bank. Are you installing a light in that box to help someone see, at 3 am, when a fuse goes see? Or another switch to turn off power past the inverter? Or the controller? Seems like a good idea, no? The switch you have only turns off the solar panels. Don't you want to turn off everything further down the line? To turn off the batteries and shore power? And to be super cautious, what would/should/could someone do if they were in an electrical storm? To make sure their whole setup isn't fried by a strike of lightening. A whole system surge protector? Disconnect the batteries? Or is the charge controller the surge protector??? Do they ever fail? And can batteries be damaged or ruined by lightening, somehow? Sorry for all the questions. Any info you give would be greatly, greatly appreciated. But I understand you have a life! 🙂🙂🙂 Or so it is hoped! Thanks again.
I have watched several of your solar panel wiring videos. I found them to be informative and helpful. But in a few of the videos you talk about checking the volts output from the solar panel array with a multimeter but you never show how to actually do the voltage output check, also you do not show final dc amps output of the solar panel array. If you have a video on this subject please tell me the title and I will watch it to hopefully learn how to check the volt and amp output from my solar panel array. I am running an array with 4 200 watt panels rated at 18.5 volts and 10.1 amps each. Wired in a series parrellel configuration. 2 sets of 2 panels are wired in series and output should be 37 volts and 10.1 amps from each set of 2 panels. Then the array is combined in a Parrellel making final output,37 volts and 20amps inside the house, if I have done everything correctly, sorry I am not able to afford an rv or van to modify like you do. That is thanks to your videos and that blog post with quiz about series-parrellel wiring configurations I am running a 24volt pmv inverter., just the basics, to learn befor i build my permanent house. I now rent but will take my solar system with me when I build my house. Once again.THANK YOU for you educational videos and calm presenting manner
I think in this video you mentioned nec as well as abyc. Nice. How do you calculate the loads and demands for for just a kitchen. All 120 vac. 1500w refrig, 1800 watts induction cooktop,1800 watt oven airfryer. Is there run times you use for calculations? Thank you
I'm using your Renogy economy layout (2x 200w solar with 2x 100ah lithium batteries, 2000W 12V Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger) and your copper bars. Can I switch out the busbar items in that diagram and use the VICTRON LYNX power in instead (adding the M8 bolts and nuts. Victron site said that will work), Keeping the fuses and wire sizes the same (except to inverter charger make 400)? Thanks so much for all these videos. I couldn't do this without you!
You have to be the smartest guy I have ever watched! Newly subscribed. I watched your van install first, but am likely to apply this to a towable. Do you have a video to include connections for alternator charging from the tow vehicle or would this not be recommended? PS, I see your future videos addressing possible charging of toatally electric tow vehicles (i.e., Ford Lightning, Rivian trucks) from camper trailer or 5th wheel solar panels. Thanks for sharing all of your knowledge.
Nate, I don't know if this is the right place to ask but- here it goes: I bought the plans for 50A RV install- it has a Magnum Energy Inverter- I was planning on using the 3KW Multiplus II from Victron. Do i have to install a Automatic Transfer Switch when installing a new generator? Thanks!
So I know this is going to be a lot . . but. I'm doing a Skoolie build, and I'm planning on putting a 10kW Quattro in it. Is the wiring and setup very similar to the Multiplus? Also, I'm using a 48v system to cut down on the amps and increase efficiency. I know that I need to use a 48v to 12v step down converter before I wire the bus bar to the 12v breaker panel, but is there anything else I need to be extra weary of? (aside from the potential shock due to higher voltages.) Will the quattro still power the 12v systems without batteries installed if everything is wired like all of your other diagrams? (So long as I have the step down converter of course.) I'm on a fixed budget basically, and only able to purchase a piece here and there, so I just can't afford the batteries immediately. I was thinking about just buying one to get it all set up.
Rookie here, but why a 300 amp capable disconnect to a 750 amp block with a 400 amp fuse? Why not the 300 amp block with a 300 amp anl fuse, for a lot less money also?
Nate I plan on using this set-up in my camper I have purchased the Battle Born Energy Towable 30A 200Ah Kit how would you suggest wiring in the Battery Guardian Auto Select? Thanks!
Nate, Thanks for this and all of your videos. I've learned a ton and am ready to do my own install now. I noticed that the clearances around the Victron Multi-Plus are pretty tight in this install. In the Victron installation manual they call for 100mm (4") clearance around the sides. Have you done something else it allow for the tighter mounting? I'm getting ready to put my system together next week and it would be good to know if there is some extra room for placement of other parts. I'm planning on fans to draw cabin air through the battery/inverter area. Thanks, Ed
Ultimately, those clearances are recommended for, as you mentioned, cooling and air circulation. Andy made plans to add some 12v computer fans to that enclosure if overheating becomes an issue.
For the shore power, you talked about buying a converter to downstep from 30amp to 15amp. Can you buy a converter to step up the shore power from 30amp to 50amp? I know that some RV parks give a 50 amp option. Thanks!
Fantastically video. Thank you so much for all the effort. Do you have any videos on how to automatically start a Cummins onan 7Kw generator via a Cerbo GX? I know there is a specific Relay on the GX for generator start/stop but try as I might cant find a wiring diagram or need how to actually connect between the generator harness to the relay. Hope this makes sense 👍
aloha, great video series, very very helpful with y build!!, but looking for help programming setting on the Multiplus, don’t see it on your website. i’m wiring up a food truck!
Hi Nate, what kind of bolts, washers, and nuts do I use for the prongs on the Lynx Distribution? These are the prongs where I will connect the battery disconnect switch and Smart Shunt. I noticed that the hardware where the fuses attach do not stick to a magnet - are they plated/tinned copper. Do I need the same kind of hardware for the prongs? If yes, do you have a source? I went to my local hardware store and couldn’t find comparable hardware.
Question about fuse size on lynx distributor for the DC distribution panel. Why the 100amp mega fuse? What determines the fuse size? I don’t see anything in the manual regarding what size fuse should be used? And, why does it need a fuse when it is made up of blade fuses? Thanks for the help.
Currently trouble shooting my set up. The battery monitor is saying batteries are 100% charged but the charge controller is indicating an error code that the batteries are over charged. Also the Lynx Distributor will not power on. Any ideas?!
My camper is wired for 50A shore power. Will this system set up work with 50A shore power vise 30A shore power? Will the charger / inverter handle this or would I need to step up to the 5000w charger/inverter?
I have 3 questions As for the charger inverter isn't there an option to use it as a power source other then charger? Which wouldn't use any of the batteries power to power any of the appliance's the multiplus is connected to? For the MPPT, wouldn't it be more efficient to have the battery cables connected directly to the battery bank, as the way I see it putting it through the distribution bank it would lose power to the batteries as it will be feeding parts of its current to the other connections on the distribution box? Lastly for the solar panels I didn't see in the video how you attached each panel to each other, only the end with the 4 wires from the 2 array's, just curious to know how you joined them :)
Why do you not additionally fuse between batteries? Fuses are cheap and bad batteries can cause fun times. I did for mine, version 1 two years ago, and am planning a version 2. Thanks!
hello, is it possible to fry the solar charger by hot plugging the panel in? my setup, very similar to this was working fine and i unplugged and plugged in the solar panel (while in the sun) without using the disconnect switch and now i am getting no power from the solar charger. any tips for troubleshooting this would be appreciated. thanks
Hello friends, do I need both a bmv 712 AND a ve smart dongle to bluetooth inverter and solar data? or are they redundant? I also have the color monitor . I am able to see bluetooth data using my bmv712 already, does the VE smart dongle give more data than the bmv712 and the color monitor ?
Nate, Great video's on the Airstream under bed MultiPlus installation. What has been added to remove the heat from the Victron MultiPlus and to vent the under bed enclosure? Please advise.
You mention interbattery connections being the same length, It occurs to me that in multiple battery configs, it is the length round trip from main positive connection to main negative connection that matters. As long as all batteries have the same length pathway and cable size to maintain a given resistance per measure of length(from bank pos to bank neg) the interconnects do not necessarily have to be the same individual length. Such "cross-connections" are illustrated on Victron's literature.
Honest question that has been bugging me for a while: Can you please explain how a 3000w invertor can safely be hooked up to 12v battle born batteries wired in parallel? The batteries are only rated for 100amps of continuous discharge per battery... a 3000w inverter maxed out would be drawing 250amps! (3000 / 12 = 250). In a parallel configuration the amp hours increase, while your volts stay the same... so in this video you have a 12v, 400amp HOUR battery, BUT isn't it still only safe to pull 100 amps continuously out of the batteries? OR does the "continuous draw rating" increase as you add more batteries in parallel?
Batteries wired in parallel get the output amperage added in addition to their amp hours. So... 1 battery = 100A output 2 batteries wired in parallel = 200Ah output 3 batteries wired in parallel = 300 Ah output. Etc...
@@EXPLORISTlife Ahh ok, thank you for the simple explanation! Amp hour AND amp capacity both go up. Looks like ill need 3 battel born batteries minimum to run a 3000w inverter!
Do you know anything about this alternator? It’s labeled for battery less systems only. Would it be good to charge the batteries safe? I am trying to contact the manufacturer to see if there would be an issue using it to charge batteries. It's life in the bus was strictly to run A/C units. www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/specs.php?item_detail_id=34626&item=8SC3200V
Nate i have a major question, How do you wire two victron 3000 watt inverters into a one electrical panel to be able to utilize both inverters on all breakers? 2 air ac units, washer and dryer, heater, water pump etc.do i need to add another breaker box?
There is a wire in the plug between camper and tow vehicle that can trickle charge camper batteries in a lead acid build obviously that wire would just get connected directly to rv battery but with lithium batteries how would you go about connecting this vehicle trickle charge wire the that system u just built?
I am restoring a 1969 Holiday Rambler, bumper pull 27’ trailer. It was manufactured with 30 amp, I am going upgrade to a 50 amp. I want to install a solar system on it. I can not find a inverter/charger that is 3000 watts for a 2 pole 50 amp system. Can you help me to understand this. My understanding( as I can figure) there is a in and an out AC on the inverter/charger. I have not seen a inverter that excepts the 50/ 220 volts.
I just released a diagram and parts list for an OEM RV Retrofit for RVs with 50A shore power. This should get you 95% of the way to where you are trying to go: www.explorist.life/50a-camper-inverter-with-solar-alternator-charging-wiring-diagram/
Hi Nate, thanks for another great video. Hey I was wondering why in your diagrams you don't have a breaker between the Multiplus and Shore power plug? Is that just over kill? Similarly, for your wiring diagrams that use a DC-DC charger is there any benefit of including a breaker/switch between the vehicle battery and the Orion Charger? Seems like a lot of folks put breakers on all the power sources. Sometimes on both sides of the MPPT (from solar panels, and then between the MPPT and battery). What is your view? Thanks again for all your great stuff. Keep it coming.
A breaker between shore power and the Multiplus is not needed because there is a breaker in the campground power pedestal or in the breaker box that is protecting the circuit you are plugging into. This is the same idea as why you don't have a breaker between the wall outlet in your house and, say, a blender. It's all protected from overcurrent at the breaker box. In my diagrams, I have a fuse at the starting battery. I do not have an additional switch. An additional switch introduces additional points of resistance or failure, so I avoid them when they are not necessary. I have fuses at all 'Power Sources' in my diagrams. I also have fuses as necessary between the solar panels and the MPPT when necessary, but that's not always necessary. More info: www.explorist.life/how-to-fuse-a-solar-panel-array-and-why-you-may-not-need-to/ I do include a dual pole disconnect between solar array and charge controller due to the NEC requirement as discussed in this video.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks Nate for your reply. Much appreciated. I purchased one of your wiring diagrams (great deal at $10 bucks) and am kicking off a Victron/Battleborn build. All your tutorials have really helped. Keep the videos coming.
Awesome video Nate! I wonder if you put a fuse or breaker in-between the incoming shore power and the victron Multiplus. I didn't see one in your wiring diagram. Thanks!
If my solar charge controller cannot be easily located near my batteries and multiplus, is that a problem? I was thinking I'd just go directly from my charge controller to my dc distribution panel. I'll of course keep the breaker in place. I guess, is it a problem to bypass the lynx distributor in this case?
We read in the solar charge controller installation manual, not to install the unit on a flamible material. Many people seem to install on plywood and sometimes painted plywood. Is this okay to do?
In the time line 34:58 I see that Andy's camper is 30amp shoe power. My DIY restoration( 1969 Holiday Rambler travel trailer) is in fact gonna be upgraded too 50amp. My question is ...... Will I need two inverter/converters, or is there a 50amp inverter
Hey mate I’ve watched a fair few of your videos and you have helped loads just wondering if you do custom diagrams as I would really appreciate the help / advice going forward on my current conversion. Let me know if this is something you can assist with?
I am currently not offering a custom wiring diagram service. Most people don't need to pay the $$$$$ for a custom diagram though as the diagrams I already have published at www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams seem to meet the needs of 95% of people.
Nate this is the best video I have seen so far and followed this the same for the past month. Unfortunately I turned on power today and got nothing so must of missed something.
I have a pop up I like to us the DC set up this has with not a inverter just connected it to the convert that the camper has already, can it be done with not have to worry about back feed.
Thanks so much for what you do Nate! Your videos are amazing! I have a question on mounting the smart dongle. I was planning on sticking it to the side of my MP and connecting the power leads to the MP but the Victron dongle video says to adhere it directly to one of the batteries and connect the power wire to that battery for proper sensing. Does it need to be attached to a battery?
There needs to be a fuse protecting each branch circuit and a fuse protecting the wire from the battery bank to the distributor. They both just happened to be 400A; so yes.
Hi Nate, You helped us out with our wiring diagram back in May. Finally putting it all together. Have an easy question for you! -on my diagram (attached) we said that only my Positive wire from my solar was going through the 40amp , 400V breaker you suggested. But right now, I have both my positive AND Negative solar panel wires running through the breaker. is this a problem or safety hazard? thanks
Correct, both positive and negative conductors should go through their respective sides of the dual pole breaker. See this wiring diagram for an example: www.explorist.life/3000w-inverter-400-600ah-400-to-1200w-solar-camper-solar-kit
Awesome vid. Very easy to follow the process. I was saving several different vids to get different bits and pieces. This puts it all together start to finish. 👍🤜🤛
I have a BLUETTI ac200max power station that I charge with solar (200 watts on the roof). I do not have batteries and inverters set up separately because i don’t understand how it all works and worry that I won’t be able to problem solve any issues that come up. That being said I am doing another van conversion and want to use a 12v ac unit (thinking Velit 2000r) and I have been seeing some things on RUclips that state I may not have enough watt hours to run the unit for very long (I live in SW Florida). One video stated they used a battery for the ac unit and then had a battery charger connected to the power station, does that make sense? If so, what size battery do I use to just run the ac unit 300ah lithium battery? Any suggestions or ideas will be helpful. Thanks for your information in advance.
The proposed solution is not really a proper way to set up a permanently installed camper electrical solution. Although this channel will teach you everything you need to know about electrical systems, we understand that can still be intimidating and if you don't want to install it yourself; we have installation services available: shop.explorist.life
super appreciate all the help, last question hopefully, upon closer inspection of the layout, i noticed you from shore power you used a 10/3, but then from the charger to the fuse box you used 6/3. i never noticed the 6/3 and i already bought double the 10/3, is it still ok to use the 10/3 to connected the inverter to the fuse box? i noticed you used 10/3 connecting the inverter to the fuse box in the renogy layout.
Hey Bentley! I am just about to head over to share this in the private group. Yes! Pretty much. It doesn't use the Orion DC DC charger as Andy didn't particularly need/want alternator charging; but everything else is the same.
Hey Nate, thx for all of your how-to vids. I have spent way too much time watching them! Here's my question for you. I have a 2019 Sprinter 170, and i plan to build a power system around a 400watt Solaria Power XT panel, already installed on my roof. I have 3 x 206ah SOK lithium iron phosphate batteries to serve as my bank, and several DC devices i plan to run, including a Dometic a/c, maxxair, fridge, etc. I was thinking about building just a DC system for now, and waiting to build my AC system at a later date around a 3000watt inverter/charger. I have a Bluetti ac200p that would cover my 120v AC needs for the short term, until i get around to the more permanent AC build. Anyway, whatya think? Bad idea? Strange? Doable? And would you be able to provide a parts "kit" to cover this 12v DC build, like charge controller, linx distributor, fuses, brakers, lugs, cables, etc? Thx!
That would take quite a bit of re-work since the multuplus not only allows for powering of AC devices, but is also responsible for allowing you to recharge your battery bank via shore power (which is pretty much a requirement right off of the bat).
*Here are some of the reference links I mentioned in the video that will help teach you more about installing DIY solar and electrical in a camper:*
Blog Post, Parts List & Wiring Diagram: www.explorist.life/diy-solar-electric-install-on-a-1976-airstream-argosy/
Andy’s Accompanying Video:
ruclips.net/video/cdpPbDibDds/видео.html
Andy’s RUclips Channel: ruclips.net/user/andyrawls
Andy’s Website: andyrawls.com/
EXPLORIST.life Merch: teespring.com/stores/exploristlife
How to Perform a Power Audit: ruclips.net/video/a406IxiU-Xg/видео.html
Basic Parts & Components of an Electrical System: ruclips.net/video/xuZg4NasCVw/видео.html
Similar System w/ Alternator Charging: www.explorist.life/3000w-inverter-400-600ah-400-to-1200w-solar-camper-solar-kit
Smaller System w/ Alternator Charging: www.explorist.life/2000w-inverter-200-400ah-lithium-200-to-700w-solar-camper-wiring-diagram/
How to Cut Wire: www.explorist.life/how-to-cut-wire/
How to Strip Wire: ruclips.net/video/ca45dL2X4SM/видео.htmlHow to Crimp Wire: ruclips.net/video/JmiX2XW48F8/видео.html
How to Make MC4 Connectors: ruclips.net/video/YFAKK491wj0/видео.html
How to Read Voltage with a Multimeter: ruclips.net/video/Qvp0MN6mcmA/видео.html
Securing Solar Panels to Roof (Andy’s Video): ruclips.net/video/ihAiioFAUv4/видео.html
How to Wire Solar Panels in Series-Parallel: ruclips.net/video/b2H8vpj8rQg/видео.html
How to Crimp Wire Ferrules: ruclips.net/video/h8CHAVmpPFw/видео.html
How to Wire an AC/DC Breaker/Fuse Box:
Victron BMV-712 Battle Born Settings:
Victron Smartsolar MPPT Battle Born Settings:
Here is a list of the MAIN components in the system:
(4) Battle Born Lithium Batteries:
(1) Victron Multiplus 3000 Inverter/Charger
(1) Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150|75 Solar Charge Controller
(1) Victron BMV-712 Smart Battery Monitor
(1) Victron VE.Bus Smart Dongle
(8) 100w Newpowa Monocrystalline Solar Panels
COOL, I'm going to up-grade my BBB this January to the Heated ones. I hope I can film this. I need to see what all I need to run my 2 x 1200 watts cooker/induction plate. What size inverter do I need? (2000, 2500, 3000) I do not have room for the big 3000 one you use.
I'd almost forgotten about this stuff.. lol, to reiterate my past I must say you've got really
good research/organization skills that not only connect at a level I can understand but it
saves me lots of time too. I say this b/c I'd done extensive research before finding you &
right away I saw just how much info you'd packed in each video. I'm not yet ready to do
anything w/ "Solar" but I've got your stuff bookmarked in it's own file, lol..... When last
speaking to you I'd been stuck on the issues w/ batteries ; lead acid has downsides &
the Lithium is too expensive..... but I've not checked on prices in the last 6-7 months
but I'm optimistic that if the President is reelected that this bottleneck might loosen
its grip? You do all around good work, whats not to like.... peace & be safe
can u call me
@@RVingwithG Nice! I've been seeing people having good results with induction cooktops on the 3000w. Inverter: www.explorist.life/3000w-inverter-400-600ah-400-to-1200w-solar-camper-solar-kit
@@diggydice9041 Awesome! Glad it's been helpful.
Nate, the time and effort to make this video and collaboration had to have been huge. Thank you for doing it. This video is one of the absolute best install explanations I've seen.
Hey Chris Meeks, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
took the words out of my mouth :)
Yes, Thanks Nate!
seriously tho.. lol im so far out of my league with this.. youre a hero
Now anybody should feel confident attempting this install.
After a month of watching this video and looking over purchased diagrams from you, we just completed the install of our electrical system. It truly would not have felt possible without your resources, so just wanted to pop in and offer a sincere thank you for all your hard work and shared wisdom. You really are the bes!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
How waa your optional lynx..
How much did all of this cost?
In all honesty Nate, this is the most valuable video/set of videos I may have ever found on RUclips ever. I needed your help so badly, and I cannot thank you enough for empowering so many people, by opening doors to solar knowledge with the keys you have. Bless your soul, and I’ll be a huge fan and find ways to support for years to come. Thank you!
Wow!!! I’ve seen allot of videos.. but this made everything come together!! Thank you!!
Super, Super video!!! Please keep them coming. Perfect timing as well since I am into doing almost the identical project and adding in an aux. alternator.
Thanks! Will do! More of these types of videos are definitely in the future.
Is there a reason that almost every RV solar install video/tutorial you guys are always using 100W solar panels? Couldn't you have used 4 - 200W panels (or bigger) and made it much easier and take less roof space (to allow for expansion of more solar for the two extra batteries expansion he left in the wood box)?
I've watched this so many times in preparation for installing our van's electrical system and it helped so much! Thanks so much for all your hard work and for putting this together!
When connecting the battery monitor cable from the Victron BMV-712 to the (+) busbar on the Lynx Distributor, what do you do with all the extra wire? Do you leave it folded and tuck it into the Lynx Distributor? Thanks for the help.
Yeah, either tuck it in there, zip tie it up and out of the way, or you can always butt splice it to be shorter: amzn.to/3pMnV5Y
How about a video on different ways to keeping batteries warm/heated in winter!👍🤙
Yes!! This is definitely something we need to see
My plan is a radiant heat floor.
Great suggestion. Added to 'videos to make' list. Battle Born recently released their self heating batteries: battlebornbatteries.com/product-category/lifepo4-batteries/heated-battery-kits/?afmc=explorist_bb67
I saw that shortly after my post. I'll be heading out that way to purchase 2 of them for next winter.
@@EXPLORISTlife these are what I bought. I figured it took care of the heating issue and it it comes with the Battleborn warranty!!!!
I am setting up a solar system in my old rv 1993 fleetwood. I will be running a 48v battery system and was wondering what the typical amp draw is on the 12v side of the rv system. The victron 48v to 12v converter is a $100 difference between 20amp and 30amp. Is 20amp sufficient for a basic rv 12v system or would I need the 30 amp.
great video, even for those of us who've been installing these systems for years, something for all types of experiences to gain from this expert level of explanation, thank you!
Hey! It's awesome to hear that coming from a van outfitter. Thanks for watching! :D
I've watched all your videos and took notes to help me to collect and save what I need to do, I've watched this one a few times, I don't know if I somehow missed it or it went over my head 😂 and I am pretty positive that I understand how to do my wiring for my solar system I will be putting into my diy mini travel trailer. But I'm slightly confused about the set up that will combine with shore power and hooking up power outlets and a fridge.
Do I or do I not use 10/3 romax wiring from a fuse box through my build and into the power outlets I need for my refrigerator, tv and other household appliances?
Or do I only use that wiring to go from my shore power inlet to the fuse box blocks and then connect 12v wiring from everything to the power outlets? 🤔
I'm ready to start my installation process but stuck at this
What did you ever figure out?
@@stevenmullins9799 I have not been able to really continue on and figure it out yet...so much going on around here that I had to set it all aside until another day. But I'm still wondering and waiting for the answer.
This is a fantastic video! Perfect timing as I am going together with my solar system. Thanks so much!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
But when it rains with hail,,,, do the solar panels withstand the hail bombardment?
Thank you for the instructions, they are very useful,,, and congratulations on your achievements.
Indeed! If the hail is bad enough to damage the solar panels, it would also cause extensive body damage to the camper. In fact... solar panels are cheaper to replace than having to pay somebody for body-work on a camper.
Best video on setting up a lipo victron system, well done! Would love to see one with a nations alternator and dc/dc victron charger integrated in. Thanks much for sharing your knowledge.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching! Will try to get a DC DC charger in the next one.
40000 wire ? Really ? Is that necessary ? How many amps you pushing 400 ? I know 12v sucks but ?
Just running through your questions here:
1: Yes. Technically called 4/0 or 0000. Pernounced "Four Aught"
2: Yes.
3: Yes. Check pg 8 of the Multiplus user manual for verification.
4: Using watts law of Volts x Amps = Watts, you can see that by running a 3000W inverter at 12V; that would be 250A.
5: There's nothing wrong with 12V for this size of system.
If i’m still watching near the end? I’ll be watching this vid over and over again )
👍 Danke fürs Hochladen!
👍 Thanks for uploading!
No problem. Happy to help!
@@EXPLORISTlife
👍 Bitteschön, keine Ursache - gern geschehen!
👍 Here you go, don't worry - you're welcome!
Thanks for these videos. I am using them to build a 600w system for my off grid camp in Canada. Super helpful. You sold me on the lynx distributor and your high res diagram for the 2000w inverter system is what I am using as my guide (minus the shore power for my needs). Question for you - I read some material from Victron on grounding my system and I think I understand it. Would it make sense to run the chassis grounding in your diagram to an earth ground (ground rod) for my terrestrial setup. Essentially connecting the negative bus bar to an earth ground with appropriate sized wire?
Damn!! That is a damn, good job of explaining things in layman's terms so even I can understand it. Seriously thank you so much for your time well done! Just a guy from Texas named Rick Fort Worth baby!
Great stuff! I don’t have a torque wrench, how vital is having the published torque on each nut in the charge controller etc...?
As an educator... it would be irresponsible of me to say that a manufacturers recommendation 'doesn't matter', so thats up to you on how many corners you want to cut.
Hi Nate, Thank you for the very clear video, it helps a lot. I have a few questions so it's all clear to me.
- You measured the current from your batteries and it was 13,6 V or so I believe, but you have a 12V system. How does this work, is this 12V just an average?
- Why is a shunt places at the negative site of the busbar?
Keep up the good work!
Sofie
1: A 12V battery is just a 'nominal' rating. It's pretty much never operates at EXACTLY 12v. A 12V battery will operate anywhere from 10V to 14.6V depending on how charged the battery is, if the battery is being used, how fast the battery is being drained, or if the battery is being charged.
2: The Shunt must be between the battery bank and LITERALLY EVERYTHING ELSE on the negative side of the system to work. Mounting it to the negative side of the busbar satisfies this requirement, so that's what we did.
The shunt is connected to the negative side so the IR voltage drop it measures is also close to zero volts. Inside the BMV712 is an op-amp to amplify this tiny voltage, and it doesn't like to go all the way to the positive rail, so they chose the negative side. It's like measuring the height of a mountain, you can measure up from the base, or you could start at the top and measure down. Most likely you would start at the base.
Could you speak to the choice of 12 volt vs configuring the bank as 24 volt. Same batteries, but switch to appropriate size inverter?
To keep it simple... I only recommend 24v battery banks for systems requiring more than 3000w of Inverter power or larger than 1450w of solar.
Great tips thank you so much for sharing this important information listening from Bangs Texas. Question, what is the purpose of the distributor?
Thanks! I think the purpose of the Lynx Distributor is pretty well explained at the 11:45 mark. Let me know if you have any more specific questions.
Hey Nate: I recently received several Battle Born batteries, a 3000 w inverter charger, and a few accessories to install in my 2017 Coachmen Galleria. I've watched all the videos, but when I looked at the electrical inside my van, it all seems very overwhelming. I am wondering if you have any contacts in the Atlanta area who can help me with this install. Obviously, I'd be willing to pay. I'm overwhelmed.
All I've got to say is strong work brother!!! Strong work!! This will be invaluable as I start my van conversion this spring!!!!!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Question: why wouldn’t the battery switch be ahead of the battery main fuse? Also, is there any issue with the performance of the electronics in the Victon equipment when shore power is 30 amp, 120 volt supplied from a generator? I only ask because a generator doesn’t supply power that is as clean and steady as utility company power typically is.
Hey Dwight! Thanks for watching!
To my knowledge, there is not a code nor standard about main switch placement between the battery bank and the Lynx Distributor (Or whatever other distribution system you use). Generally, It's best for the main fuse to be the very first thing that power hits coming from the batteries so that if there is ANY issue at ANY point downstream, the fuse will protect it. But... to answer you specific question... it's doesn't make a LOT of difference one way or the other but in my particular diagrams and setup, the engineers at Victron were fine with the switch placement when I was working with them to make my diagrams.
For the 'dirty' power from the Generator. The Victron components can handle it. Obviously, the better power you can have coming in, the better... but the Victron Multiplus has an internal setting that can compensate for generators that put out less-than-clean waves of power.
Wow, I watched a lot of DIY help videos before landing here and am so impressed by how thorough this information is. Thanks for putting this all together!
Can we see a video on hooking up a solar system to a new 5th wheel.
Maybe a video who doesn't have $10000 to invest in a electrical system
I plan on doing more full install videos like this in the upcoming year; and a 50A OEM RV is definitely on the menu.
I can't promise anything on the price point though; I'll be using Battle Born Batteries & Victron components for these tutorials. Hopefully, though... you will still be able to use the principles I show to choose less expensive equipment if you so desire.
Brilliant!! The only thing missing is where I can apply for a loan for this amazing tech!
I like your reply! I have a credit card that didn't have much of a balance on it, so I started ordering parts and pieces over the internet (without worrying about funds), to build a quality Solar Power Generation system, much like the one Nate did here. By the time I was done, my balance on my Credit card was approximately $15,000.00. However, it was great fun, and it kept me out of the Bars at night!
😂😂 good point
Haha, right? Glad it helped. (sorry I can't help on the loan. lolol)
Is that "shunt"required due no Bluetooth monitoring ? Also, no sparks when inverter sees battery HOT ! Caps must have been pre-charged ?
The shunt provides the Bluetooth monitoring.
There was no sparks since we used a switch instead of just connecting the wires.
Would anything have to change for wiring a 50amp trailer?
Yeah. It'd be a totally different setup. Here is a 50A OEM RV Retrofit diagram: www.explorist.life/50a-camper-inverter-with-solar-alternator-charging-wiring-diagram/
Thank you for the reply, I appreciate it. Assuming I can just eliminate the alternator charging piece, being as this is for a travel trailer? Great videos and content. Extremely helpful!
The "northwest" battery will get more load than the "northeast" battery, due to major differences in the lengths of the red and black "crossover" cables. Ideally, each battery should have an equal total wire length. For installations where the loads will usually be small, it may not matter much.
Indeed. And hopefully I explained that good enough in the video. If we had an extra week on the project, I would have actually cut and drilled copper bar for the battery interconnects as we were ALSO dealing with clearance issues with the lid of the enclosure (I didn't bore you with that detail on camera). Ultimately the way will did it will be just fine for this use, but for those trying to mirror this project should definitely make an effort to mount batteries directly side by side. Not too bad, though, for a 2-day build.
Hello Nate.
I have a non camper solar wiring question for you, if you would be so kind as to take a look.
I have 20 each mission solar 415w panels. They are 48.81 open circuit voltage, 10.35 A rated current and 40.09 volts rated voltage.
I plan to wire the into a Sol Ark 12k inverter.
It's is rated for:
MPPT voltage range 150-425v
Max # of MPPT =2
Max solar strings per MPPT =2
Max DC current per MPPT 20A
Starting voltage 125v.
My question is would you recommend putting my panels in series in groups of 5 and then parallel 2 groups of 5 to one MPPT and the other 2 groups of 5 to the second MPPT?
Your opinion would be greatly appreciated.
Great video!! very informative.
I have a Ford Econoline van that has a AGM start battery wired to an AGM auxiliary battery (under the van) wired to a battery bank (two 100AH - AGM batteries) that have a ground cable attached to the chassis. I'm planning on installing (two 100W 12 volt solar panels), connected to a Victron Orion-TR Smart 12 12 30 DC DC Charger.
Question: Do I need the (non-Isolated) or (Isolated) version of the Victron Orion-TR Smart 12 12 30 DC DC Charger?
Also: should the location of the Victron Orion-TR Smart 12 12 30 DC DC Charge be placed between the auxiliary battery and the battery bank that will be receiving the charge from the solar panels?
I like most I want the max system but under 1000 for boondock. 200v on panels and 2-3000 inverter and at least 1 12v 100 70ah (I believe) LOL LITHIUM PHOSPHATE BATTERY. Spinning around in circles attempting to understand this Stuff... HELP?!
youre making the most comprehensive videos on this project.. BY FAR. As I attempted to wrap up my own project today, I realized that I hadn't comprehended that the Cerbo GX isn't the magical bluetooth connection that I thought It was from previous videos. Perhaps a video of what's important to be bluetoothed (and how) into the vicltron app for settings purposes, especially for apple users, as the ve.configure app seems to be strictly for Windows users...which makes the VRM option a bit prohibitive. Keep up the amazing work. I didn't even zap myself during this project!!
I purchased everything I need for a solar setup on my old camper, which I never installed. I have a new camper, but do not have any plans to install solar on it anytime soon. So, I have decided to make myself a really large uninterruptable power supply for the PC and Starlink in my new camper, which can later be modified for a solar setup in the future if I decide to do it. I'm afraid that if I don't put the batteries to use that they will eventually go bad. It's been close to 2 years since I purchased them.
I intend to use 4x 100 AH LiFeP04 batteries wired to my Lynx Distributor and then connect my 2000w inverter to that. I plan to use a Smart Shunt, a 400a fuse and a kill switch between the battery bank and the distributor. I also have a Victron IP22 charger which will keep the battery bank fully charged while the shore power is connected and live (also connected to the distributor). All of this will be attached and contained using 80/20 to create a frame.
My question is, do I really need a chassis ground in this scenario? It will be a portable unit, not a permanently attached system.
Hi Nate!!! You said the black and red SHOULD be the same length off the battery bank, but didn’t actually do that for the install due to the battery layout. For my install I am looking at 1’ red, 3’ black. I COULD coil up 2’ of extra red 2/0 if I must, what is the downside of having different lengths? THANKS!!!!!!
My fifth wheel has 50 amps shore power with a four wire cable how does that connect to the invertor? I am using the Victron PMP123021102 Multiplus 12/3000/120-50 120v VE Bus. Also I have an onboard generator with a seperate ATS how does that interconnect? Great video series really helped me understand the total setup, this is my first install with 6-200 watt panels and 6 battleborn batteries.. Thank You!!!!!!
Hi Nate, I purchased your wiring diagram and successfully in stalled 400 watts of solar, 400 amp hours of battleborn, 3000 watt inverter, etc. The only part I can't seem to find is the fr45 cable that runs from my victron multi control to the inverter. A "cat6" cable will fit the multi control, but I can't find the appropriate end for the inverter... I have left several messages for both victron and battleborn, but haven't heard back. Their installation manual says the cord can be found at HD or Lowes, but I have had no luck! Could you send a link to the cord I need to purchase ?? I would greatly appreciate it!! So excited to have this part finished! THANKS BUNCHES! KIM
Hi, have just brought 12 (345 w) help with diagrme in conecting the 12 pannels PLEASE!!!!!!!!
Hello Nate
I’m in the UK … I have two 120 watt panels I’m looking to wire together but don’t have all the specs to calculate a controller size … I have Wp =120. Vmp=18.6 Imp =6.45
Could you help .. I’m looking at the Victron controllers
Would series wiring be best ?
Many thanks
Tony
I am doing a DYI install like this one for a friend on a 2021 Sprinter. Except for the ground to the chassis, will this set up work totally independent from the truck's electrical system? Thanks for sharing great video!!! I forgot, he is using a 2KW AIMS Inverter / Charger and a Renogy Rover 40AMP MPPT charge controller.
in 40 years, what is the app store going to look like? There will be programmers making apps to communicate with those fancy 2000's bluetooth and HTTP protocols. My Retro Terry Trailer from 1986 is 35 years old. Its getting harder to find instructions (but oddly not that hard, there's an enthusiastic online community) . Even My house fuse box is having difficulty finding fuses. It would be nice to have some buttons and switches to set settings. I guess I knw the answer: you replace individual components. But good components last forever. Besides, by then well have a wireless power and be driving in aircars. right?
I haven't finished the vid yet, but what do you have that will take shore power 1st over battery power or cell power? Or that take can take shore power to charge batteries while also powering a fan, for example.
I am unsure of 1 or 2 of the things you wired up as I haven't seen them in other setups. But I'll look the stuff up on line to understand what all that these various parts do.
It may be super basic to you but it would be helpful to explain why you did certain things and not other things. Like why wire in series to a certain point and then go parallel? Why have all 4 batteries connected rather than split the system so 2 batteries run only one or two things while the rest are powered by the other 2 batteries. More of a dedicated setup, perhaps. But I think I would prefer having my fridge-freezer with its own set of batteries. And all other things on another set of batteries. I would just prefer to not mess with the fridge, or be able to somehow mess up with the fridge by doing something stupid by draining all of the batteries because I forgot to turn off..... the heater, or the water heater, a cloths iron, something!!! etc, etc. (I'm a bit worried because I will be WAAYYYY OFF GRID. And do not need to drive 100+ miles to restock because the fridge was off for 18 hours! And it will be well over 110 many days! So I need the #@^& fridge to work---- RELIABLY!!! NO PROBLEMS. IT COULD BE LIFE OR DEATH!!! Most just mine, but still......)
So it would be helpful for some if you explained why you did what you did, the advantages. But to explain alternative ways of doing something with the pros and cons!
I hope to have all of my electrical system at about eye level, and easy to get to, with space to expand. I do not understand these tight, inconvenient, dark spaces, under things. Except for the battery bank. Are you installing a light in that box to help someone see, at 3 am, when a fuse goes see? Or another switch to turn off power past the inverter? Or the controller? Seems like a good idea, no?
The switch you have only turns off the solar panels. Don't you want to turn off everything further down the line? To turn off the batteries and shore power?
And to be super cautious, what would/should/could someone do if they were in an electrical storm? To make sure their whole setup isn't fried by a strike of lightening. A whole system surge protector? Disconnect the batteries? Or is the charge controller the surge protector??? Do they ever fail?
And can batteries be damaged or ruined by lightening, somehow?
Sorry for all the questions. Any info you give would be greatly, greatly appreciated. But I understand you have a life! 🙂🙂🙂 Or so it is hoped!
Thanks again.
I have watched several of your solar panel wiring videos.
I found them to be informative and helpful.
But in a few of the videos you talk about checking the volts output from the solar panel array with a multimeter but you never show how to actually do the voltage output check, also you do not show final dc amps output of the solar panel array. If you have a video on this subject please tell me the title and I will watch it to hopefully learn how to check the volt and amp output from my solar panel array.
I am running an array with 4 200 watt panels rated at 18.5 volts and 10.1 amps each. Wired in a series parrellel configuration. 2 sets of 2 panels are wired in series and output should be 37 volts and 10.1 amps from each set of 2 panels. Then the array is combined in a Parrellel making final output,37 volts and 20amps inside the house, if I have done everything correctly, sorry I am not able to afford an rv or van to modify like you do.
That is thanks to your videos and that blog post with quiz about series-parrellel wiring configurations
I am running a 24volt pmv inverter., just the basics, to learn befor i build my permanent house. I now rent but will take my solar system with me when I build my house. Once again.THANK YOU for you educational videos and calm presenting manner
I think in this video you mentioned nec as well as abyc. Nice.
How do you calculate the loads and demands for for just a kitchen. All 120 vac.
1500w refrig, 1800 watts induction cooktop,1800 watt oven airfryer. Is there run times you use for calculations?
Thank you
I'm using your Renogy economy layout (2x 200w solar with 2x 100ah lithium batteries, 2000W 12V Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger) and your copper bars. Can I switch out the busbar items in that diagram and use the VICTRON LYNX power in instead (adding the M8 bolts and nuts. Victron site said that will work), Keeping the fuses and wire sizes the same (except to inverter charger make 400)?
Thanks so much for all these videos. I couldn't do this without you!
Yep! Sure can. I'll be making a video about that soon.
You have to be the smartest guy I have ever watched! Newly subscribed. I watched your van install first, but am likely to apply this to a towable. Do you have a video to include connections for alternator charging from the tow vehicle or would this not be recommended? PS, I see your future videos addressing possible charging of toatally electric tow vehicles (i.e., Ford Lightning, Rivian trucks) from camper trailer or 5th wheel solar panels. Thanks for sharing all of your knowledge.
Nate, I don't know if this is the right place to ask but- here it goes:
I bought the plans for 50A RV install- it has a Magnum Energy Inverter- I was planning on using the 3KW Multiplus II from Victron. Do i have to install a Automatic Transfer Switch when installing a new generator? Thanks!
So I know this is going to be a lot . . but. I'm doing a Skoolie build, and I'm planning on putting a 10kW Quattro in it. Is the wiring and setup very similar to the Multiplus? Also, I'm using a 48v system to cut down on the amps and increase efficiency. I know that I need to use a 48v to 12v step down converter before I wire the bus bar to the 12v breaker panel, but is there anything else I need to be extra weary of? (aside from the potential shock due to higher voltages.) Will the quattro still power the 12v systems without batteries installed if everything is wired like all of your other diagrams? (So long as I have the step down converter of course.) I'm on a fixed budget basically, and only able to purchase a piece here and there, so I just can't afford the batteries immediately. I was thinking about just buying one to get it all set up.
Rookie here, but why a 300 amp capable disconnect to a 750 amp block with a 400 amp fuse? Why not the 300 amp block with a 300 amp anl fuse, for a lot less money also?
Nate I plan on using this set-up in my camper I have purchased the Battle Born Energy Towable 30A 200Ah Kit how would you suggest wiring in the Battery Guardian Auto Select? Thanks!
Nate, Thanks for this and all of your videos. I've learned a ton and am ready to do my own install now. I noticed that the clearances around the Victron Multi-Plus are pretty tight in this install. In the Victron installation manual they call for 100mm (4") clearance around the sides. Have you done something else it allow for the tighter mounting? I'm getting ready to put my system together next week and it would be good to know if there is some extra room for placement of other parts. I'm planning on fans to draw cabin air through the battery/inverter area. Thanks, Ed
Ultimately, those clearances are recommended for, as you mentioned, cooling and air circulation. Andy made plans to add some 12v computer fans to that enclosure if overheating becomes an issue.
For the shore power, you talked about buying a converter to downstep from 30amp to 15amp. Can you buy a converter to step up the shore power from 30amp to 50amp? I know that some RV parks give a 50 amp option. Thanks!
Fantastically video. Thank you so much for all the effort. Do you have any videos on how to automatically start a Cummins onan 7Kw generator via a Cerbo GX? I know there is a specific Relay on the GX for generator start/stop but try as I might cant find a wiring diagram or need how to actually connect between the generator harness to the relay. Hope this makes sense 👍
aloha, great video series, very very helpful with y build!!, but looking for help programming setting on the Multiplus, don’t see it on your website. i’m wiring up a food truck!
Hi Nate, what kind of bolts, washers, and nuts do I use for the prongs on the Lynx Distribution? These are the prongs where I will connect the battery disconnect switch and Smart Shunt. I noticed that the hardware where the fuses attach do not stick to a magnet - are they plated/tinned copper. Do I need the same kind of hardware for the prongs? If yes, do you have a source? I went to my local hardware store and couldn’t find comparable hardware.
Question about fuse size on lynx distributor for the DC distribution panel. Why the 100amp mega fuse? What determines the fuse size? I don’t see anything in the manual regarding what size fuse should be used? And, why does it need a fuse when it is made up of blade fuses? Thanks for the help.
im actually in the process of building a 400 watt system for my shed. might be 800 by the time im done
Hi Nate, to supply 120 V from inverter to outlets, is ok to use an AWG 10 extension cord or I need to use kind of 10/2 MC cable? Thanks
Currently trouble shooting my set up. The battery monitor is saying batteries are 100% charged but the charge controller is indicating an error code that the batteries are over charged. Also the Lynx Distributor will not power on. Any ideas?!
My camper is wired for 50A shore power. Will this system set up work with 50A shore power vise 30A shore power? Will the charger / inverter handle this or would I need to step up to the 5000w charger/inverter?
I have 3 questions
As for the charger inverter isn't there an option to use it as a power source other then charger? Which wouldn't use any of the batteries power to power any of the appliance's the multiplus is connected to?
For the MPPT, wouldn't it be more efficient to have the battery cables connected directly to the battery bank, as the way I see it putting it through the distribution bank it would lose power to the batteries as it will be feeding parts of its current to the other connections on the distribution box?
Lastly for the solar panels I didn't see in the video how you attached each panel to each other, only the end with the 4 wires from the 2 array's, just curious to know how you joined them :)
Why do you not additionally fuse between batteries? Fuses are cheap and bad batteries can cause fun times. I did for mine, version 1 two years ago, and am planning a version 2. Thanks!
hello, is it possible to fry the solar charger by hot plugging the panel in? my setup, very similar to this was working fine and i unplugged and plugged in the solar panel (while in the sun) without using the disconnect switch and now i am getting no power from the solar charger. any tips for troubleshooting this would be appreciated. thanks
Hello friends, do I need both a bmv 712 AND a ve smart dongle to bluetooth inverter and solar data? or are they redundant? I also have the color monitor . I am able to see bluetooth data using my bmv712 already, does the VE smart dongle give more data than the bmv712 and the color monitor ?
Nate, Great video's on the Airstream under bed MultiPlus installation.
What has been added to remove the heat from the Victron MultiPlus and to vent the under bed enclosure? Please advise.
Why didn't you use a 48v configuration instead of 12v? This would have allowed for a lot smaller wires correct?
You mention interbattery connections being the same length, It occurs to me that in multiple battery configs, it is the length round trip from main positive connection to main negative connection that matters. As long as all batteries have the same length pathway and cable size to maintain a given resistance per measure of length(from bank pos to bank neg) the interconnects do not necessarily have to be the same individual length. Such "cross-connections" are illustrated on Victron's literature.
Honest question that has been bugging me for a while: Can you please explain how a 3000w invertor can safely be hooked up to 12v battle born batteries wired in parallel? The batteries are only rated for 100amps of continuous discharge per battery... a 3000w inverter maxed out would be drawing 250amps! (3000 / 12 = 250).
In a parallel configuration the amp hours increase, while your volts stay the same... so in this video you have a 12v, 400amp HOUR battery, BUT isn't it still only safe to pull 100 amps continuously out of the batteries? OR does the "continuous draw rating" increase as you add more batteries in parallel?
Batteries wired in parallel get the output amperage added in addition to their amp hours. So...
1 battery = 100A output
2 batteries wired in parallel = 200Ah output
3 batteries wired in parallel = 300 Ah output.
Etc...
@@EXPLORISTlife Ahh ok, thank you for the simple explanation! Amp hour AND amp capacity both go up. Looks like ill need 3 battel born batteries minimum to run a 3000w inverter!
Do you know anything about this alternator? It’s labeled for battery less systems only. Would it be good to charge the batteries safe? I am trying to contact the manufacturer to see if there would be an issue using it to charge batteries. It's life in the bus was strictly to run A/C units.
www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/specs.php?item_detail_id=34626&item=8SC3200V
I don't see why it wouldn't work, but you're on the right track to verify. Getting that info from the manufacturer is always a good idea.
Nate i have a major question, How do you wire two victron 3000 watt inverters into a one electrical panel to be able to utilize both inverters on all breakers? 2 air ac units, washer and dryer, heater, water pump etc.do i need to add another breaker box?
There is a wire in the plug between camper and tow vehicle that can trickle charge camper batteries in a lead acid build obviously that wire would just get connected directly to rv battery but with lithium batteries how would you go about connecting this vehicle trickle charge wire the that system u just built?
I am restoring a 1969 Holiday Rambler, bumper pull 27’ trailer. It was manufactured with 30 amp, I am going upgrade to a 50 amp. I want to install a solar system on it.
I can not find a inverter/charger that is 3000 watts for a 2 pole 50 amp system. Can you help me to understand this.
My understanding( as I can figure) there is a in and an out AC on the inverter/charger. I have not seen a inverter that excepts the 50/ 220 volts.
I just released a diagram and parts list for an OEM RV Retrofit for RVs with 50A shore power. This should get you 95% of the way to where you are trying to go: www.explorist.life/50a-camper-inverter-with-solar-alternator-charging-wiring-diagram/
hi, what happen if you switch off the Battery braker while the Solar and shore line connected (ON) position? is that will effect the system 🤔
It generally won't damage anything, but you shouldn't do that.
Great video and walkthrough. Question- how would you wire two AC units on RV with Multiplus? Using 2soft starts with 400ah batteries and 800w solar.
Can I hook up my solar set up to my existing class a electrical panel so I don’t have to rewire anything…?
Hi Nate, thanks for another great video. Hey I was wondering why in your diagrams you don't have a breaker between the Multiplus and Shore power plug? Is that just over kill? Similarly, for your wiring diagrams that use a DC-DC charger is there any benefit of including a breaker/switch between the vehicle battery and the Orion Charger? Seems like a lot of folks put breakers on all the power sources. Sometimes on both sides of the MPPT (from solar panels, and then between the MPPT and battery). What is your view? Thanks again for all your great stuff. Keep it coming.
A breaker between shore power and the Multiplus is not needed because there is a breaker in the campground power pedestal or in the breaker box that is protecting the circuit you are plugging into. This is the same idea as why you don't have a breaker between the wall outlet in your house and, say, a blender. It's all protected from overcurrent at the breaker box.
In my diagrams, I have a fuse at the starting battery. I do not have an additional switch. An additional switch introduces additional points of resistance or failure, so I avoid them when they are not necessary.
I have fuses at all 'Power Sources' in my diagrams.
I also have fuses as necessary between the solar panels and the MPPT when necessary, but that's not always necessary. More info: www.explorist.life/how-to-fuse-a-solar-panel-array-and-why-you-may-not-need-to/
I do include a dual pole disconnect between solar array and charge controller due to the NEC requirement as discussed in this video.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks Nate for your reply. Much appreciated. I purchased one of your wiring diagrams (great deal at $10 bucks) and am kicking off a Victron/Battleborn build. All your tutorials have really helped. Keep the videos coming.
Awesome video Nate! I wonder if you put a fuse or breaker in-between the incoming shore power and the victron Multiplus. I didn't see one in your wiring diagram. Thanks!
If my solar charge controller cannot be easily located near my batteries and multiplus, is that a problem? I was thinking I'd just go directly from my charge controller to my dc distribution panel. I'll of course keep the breaker in place. I guess, is it a problem to bypass the lynx distributor in this case?
I recommend installing your charge controller as close to your batteries/multiplus/Lynx Distributor as possible.
We read in the solar charge controller installation manual, not to install the unit on a flamible material. Many people seem to install on plywood and sometimes painted plywood. Is this okay to do?
In the time line 34:58 I see that Andy's camper is 30amp shoe power. My DIY restoration( 1969 Holiday Rambler travel trailer) is in fact gonna be upgraded too 50amp. My question is ...... Will I need two inverter/converters, or is there a 50amp inverter
Hey mate I’ve watched a fair few of your videos and you have helped loads just wondering if you do custom diagrams as I would really appreciate the help / advice going forward on my current conversion. Let me know if this is something you can assist with?
I am currently not offering a custom wiring diagram service. Most people don't need to pay the $$$$$ for a custom diagram though as the diagrams I already have published at www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams seem to meet the needs of 95% of people.
Nate this is the best video I have seen so far and followed this the same for the past month. Unfortunately I turned on power today and got nothing so must of missed something.
so the master carpenter doesn't use a impact screwdriver he swaps drill bits for hex screwdriver bits ive been doing it wrong for so many years
I have a pop up I like to us the DC set up this has with not a inverter just connected it to the convert that the camper has already, can it be done with not have to worry about back feed.
Thanks so much for what you do Nate! Your videos are amazing! I have a question on mounting the smart dongle. I was planning on sticking it to the side of my MP and connecting the power leads to the MP but the Victron dongle video says to adhere it directly to one of the batteries and connect the power wire to that battery for proper sensing. Does it need to be attached to a battery?
Are 2 400a fuses really necessary?
There needs to be a fuse protecting each branch circuit and a fuse protecting the wire from the battery bank to the distributor. They both just happened to be 400A; so yes.
Can you put link all the work you're doing helping your friend so we can buy everything
Hi Nate,
You helped us out with our wiring diagram back in May. Finally putting it all together. Have an easy question for you!
-on my diagram (attached) we said that only my Positive wire from my solar was going through the 40amp , 400V breaker you suggested. But right now, I have both my positive AND Negative solar panel wires running through the breaker. is this a problem or safety hazard?
thanks
Correct, both positive and negative conductors should go through their respective sides of the dual pole breaker. See this wiring diagram for an example: www.explorist.life/3000w-inverter-400-600ah-400-to-1200w-solar-camper-solar-kit
@@EXPLORISTlife thanks Nate!
My battery bank is going to be at 600 and hours what kind of fuse do I need for the battery and what kind of shot do I need for my system
Awesome vid. Very easy to follow the process. I was saving several different vids to get different bits and pieces. This puts it all together start to finish. 👍🤜🤛
I have a BLUETTI ac200max power station that I charge with solar (200 watts on the roof). I do not have batteries and inverters set up separately because i don’t understand how it all works and worry that I won’t be able to problem solve any issues that come up. That being said I am doing another van conversion and want to use a 12v ac unit (thinking Velit 2000r) and I have been seeing some things on RUclips that state I may not have enough watt hours to run the unit for very long (I live in SW Florida). One video stated they used a battery for the ac unit and then had a battery charger connected to the power station, does that make sense? If so, what size battery do I use to just run the ac unit 300ah lithium battery? Any suggestions or ideas will be helpful. Thanks for your information in advance.
The proposed solution is not really a proper way to set up a permanently installed camper electrical solution. Although this channel will teach you everything you need to know about electrical systems, we understand that can still be intimidating and if you don't want to install it yourself; we have installation services available: shop.explorist.life
super appreciate all the help, last question hopefully, upon closer inspection of the layout, i noticed you from shore power you used a 10/3, but then from the charger to the fuse box you used 6/3. i never noticed the 6/3 and i already bought double the 10/3, is it still ok to use the 10/3 to connected the inverter to the fuse box? i noticed you used 10/3 connecting the inverter to the fuse box in the renogy layout.
your office behind you can use plain how to hook up everything you got behind you and what it does
Thank you for coming out with this! So helpful. Is this pretty much the same equipment used in your 3000w 400-600ah 400-1200w diagram?
Hey Bentley! I am just about to head over to share this in the private group. Yes! Pretty much. It doesn't use the Orion DC DC charger as Andy didn't particularly need/want alternator charging; but everything else is the same.
Hey Nate, thx for all of your how-to vids. I have spent way too much time watching them! Here's my question for you. I have a 2019 Sprinter 170, and i plan to build a power system around a 400watt Solaria Power XT panel, already installed on my roof. I have 3 x 206ah SOK lithium iron phosphate batteries to serve as my bank, and several DC devices i plan to run, including a Dometic a/c, maxxair, fridge, etc. I was thinking about building just a DC system for now, and waiting to build my AC system at a later date around a 3000watt inverter/charger. I have a Bluetti ac200p that would cover my 120v AC needs for the short term, until i get around to the more permanent AC build. Anyway, whatya think? Bad idea? Strange? Doable? And would you be able to provide a parts "kit" to cover this 12v DC build, like charge controller, linx distributor, fuses, brakers, lugs, cables, etc? Thx!
That would take quite a bit of re-work since the multuplus not only allows for powering of AC devices, but is also responsible for allowing you to recharge your battery bank via shore power (which is pretty much a requirement right off of the bat).