I really enjoy watching you DIY's, I'm installing some coilovers soon along with new wheel hubs. I kinda figured since i'm going to be removing the spindles then the upper control arm doesn't need to be disconnected to get a full droop in the suspension (to remove leaf spring) right?
I think you'll still need to remove the upper control arm to get tension off the spindle. So long as the leaf spring is still pushing down on the lower control arm, and the upper control arm is still mounted to the frame, then there will be pressure on the spindle. But unbolting the upper control is very easy, so not much to worry about there. You may have already seen it, but I also did a video on replacing the leaf springs. You may find that helpful; at least for the removal part. ruclips.net/video/9ueXiNbi7C4/видео.html is the front. ruclips.net/video/ylDZXajlj34/видео.html is for the rear. Good luck!
Great video. Really helped but I found the front to be a pain in the ass. I had to take the upper control arm off to really get it in there. Did you notice a difference between the Bilstein and OEM?
Kinda hard to comment on the difference because I swapped to the Z06 springs at the same time. But overall I was very happy with the handling and the ride quality. Worth the effort.
Disclaimer: I went almost a year and half w/o driving the car while I was rebuilding the engine etc. That said, I swapped in the DRM Bilsteins and Z06 leaf springs at the same time. (Previously I had base springs and Bilstein Sport shocks). I was mildly concerned that the ride would be stiff. But it's not at all. Honestly I barely notice the difference (the wife didn't notice either). The ride is very composed, and normal bumps aren't bone jarring. I haven't had a track day with it yet, but I'm confident it will be much more settled.
I did not, I was able to reuse my original bolt and didn't have any issues. Though I suppose if you are in a more rust prone area, or a higher mileage car, getting a new bolt probably isn't a bad idea.
My main goal in changing mine was to improve handling. Though by 80k miles, if you still have the factory shocks, they're likely starting to show some wear.
I ordered mine directly from DRM several months ago, no issues with availability at that point. Sorry to hear they are out of stock right now. Hopefully they'll get more soon. Thanks for watching.
What is the importance of the top hex on the top of shock bolt? What if my mechanic negates in holding down hex stem while tightening top bolt of shock?
Great video. question. when do you know your shocks are gone on a c5. My c5 is rateling every time I hit a pot hole on the road. very annoying . would it be the shocks? or suspension. it rides beautiful but it gets loose when I hit a pot hole or any little notch on the road.
Typically a sign that the shocks are going bad is that they no longer dampen the oscillation of the suspension after hitting a bump; ie the the car continues to bounce up and down. A rattling noise could be something loose in the suspension. Rattles can be tricky to track down. Get the car up on jack stands and go through the suspension and exhaust system. Gently bang on various components and see if you can duplicate the rattle. I had a clunk when turning that I couldn't track down once. So I re-torqued all of my suspension mounting points with a torque wrench and that cured the noise even though nothing was "loose."
@@ScrufsGarage Thank you for your advice. I decided to install new shocks, sway bars and new bushings and end links as well. that would be fine I hope. getting it done this coming week. I will keep you posted. thanks again
Sorry, everything wrong in this Video. If you watch it, dont do it like hes done. First, you dont need to remove any Control Arms. Everything is build that way, that you can easyly change it. Second, you dont need to remove any Parts under the hood, like in 8:00. There is a tiny space under the Tank where you can go through with the Hexagon Key. Changing Shocks ist a work for half an hour, without removing anything.
Hi. Good comment to the work. Maybe a stupid question, but is it necessary to adjust the steering geometry after the shock replacement job? Thanks in advantage.
@@Wagabugu No it is not nessesary, because the Ride Hight are the same. Shocks dont change the Ride Hight. But ... Adjusting the Steering and Wheel Geometry is always good after 2-3 years, when you drive the Car fast and sporty. When you dont drive on the Limit, you dont have to adjust it.
Depending on your year, this means you have the F45 or F55 suspension. Another indicator is a 3 position switch in the center of your console with Tour, Sport, Performance settings. If this is the case you can switch to Bilstein shocks, but will either have to purchase some resistor caps to plug into your wiring loom or disconnect the active suspension module and have a GM tech reprogram your BCM with a TEC II update to remove the F45 or F55 option from your vehicle. I recommend the latter. You can also purchase the active replacement shocks from GM for somewhere between $300 and $400 per shock.
Excellent video. Good info, straight to the point.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Gonna be doing my shocks and breaks next weekend great video for reference thanks
Happy to share. Hope the install went well.
@@ScrufsGarage it was a good time, took longer than I hoped but those things always do
Thank You, very informative video. waiting on my drm's to come in now. perfectly clear and easy to understand.
Awesome, glad the video was helpful. I've been very happy with my DRM Bilsteins, hopefully yours come in soon!
I really enjoy watching you DIY's, I'm installing some coilovers soon along with new wheel hubs. I kinda figured since i'm going to be removing the spindles then the upper control arm doesn't need to be disconnected to get a full droop in the suspension (to remove leaf spring) right?
I think you'll still need to remove the upper control arm to get tension off the spindle. So long as the leaf spring is still pushing down on the lower control arm, and the upper control arm is still mounted to the frame, then there will be pressure on the spindle. But unbolting the upper control is very easy, so not much to worry about there. You may have already seen it, but I also did a video on replacing the leaf springs. You may find that helpful; at least for the removal part. ruclips.net/video/9ueXiNbi7C4/видео.html is the front. ruclips.net/video/ylDZXajlj34/видео.html is for the rear. Good luck!
Great video. Really helped but I found the front to be a pain in the ass. I had to take the upper control arm off to really get it in there. Did you notice a difference between the Bilstein and OEM?
Kinda hard to comment on the difference because I swapped to the Z06 springs at the same time. But overall I was very happy with the handling and the ride quality. Worth the effort.
Ehm, no. You dont have to take off any Control Arm.
Actualy the Front are more easy than the rear.
Thoroughly enjoyed this upload! Thank you! Thumbs up from me... Stay safe... Rico
Thanks man, really appreciate it!!
Nice job on the video! Thanks!
Thanks for watching! Always happy to share!
Very informative and helpful video.
Thanks! Always nice to hear a video has helped someone else!
Do the upper rear mounts have to be a correct way?
Is the male bushkng supposed to go on top like you did it? Some people put the male on the bottom and female on top. (Polyurethane)
For those watching this now, the answer is yes.
How do you twist that lower dog bone bolt to line up with the angle it’s supposed to mount for the front?
Well how do you like them and what differences do you feel?
Disclaimer: I went almost a year and half w/o driving the car while I was rebuilding the engine etc. That said, I swapped in the DRM Bilsteins and Z06 leaf springs at the same time. (Previously I had base springs and Bilstein Sport shocks). I was mildly concerned that the ride would be stiff. But it's not at all. Honestly I barely notice the difference (the wife didn't notice either). The ride is very composed, and normal bumps aren't bone jarring. I haven't had a track day with it yet, but I'm confident it will be much more settled.
How did you adjust the shock angle so the bolts would line up?
Can this job be done without removing the reservoirs?
Did you get a new bolt for the lower rear? I’ve heard a lot of people snapping them at 162.
I did not, I was able to reuse my original bolt and didn't have any issues. Though I suppose if you are in a more rust prone area, or a higher mileage car, getting a new bolt probably isn't a bad idea.
My 2000 C5 Vette has 80 miles, do you think i am ready to change my shocks?
My main goal in changing mine was to improve handling. Though by 80k miles, if you still have the factory shocks, they're likely starting to show some wear.
Where did you get these? DRM says they are out for a long time. Great video!
I ordered mine directly from DRM several months ago, no issues with availability at that point. Sorry to hear they are out of stock right now. Hopefully they'll get more soon. Thanks for watching.
Freshly restocked at DRM. Just received mine today and watching Scruf for the install. Thanks Scruf!
Same! Been waiting since April 2018
What is the importance of the top hex on the top of shock bolt? What if my mechanic negates in holding down hex stem while tightening top bolt of shock?
James Calero when the suspension is unloaded your shock will clunk if it’s not held down tight on top.
Great video. question. when do you know your shocks are gone on a c5. My c5 is rateling every time I hit a pot hole on the road. very annoying . would it be the shocks? or suspension. it rides beautiful but it gets loose when I hit a pot hole or any little notch on the road.
Typically a sign that the shocks are going bad is that they no longer dampen the oscillation of the suspension after hitting a bump; ie the the car continues to bounce up and down. A rattling noise could be something loose in the suspension. Rattles can be tricky to track down. Get the car up on jack stands and go through the suspension and exhaust system. Gently bang on various components and see if you can duplicate the rattle. I had a clunk when turning that I couldn't track down once. So I re-torqued all of my suspension mounting points with a torque wrench and that cured the noise even though nothing was "loose."
@@ScrufsGarage Thank you for your advice. I decided to install new shocks, sway bars and new bushings and end links as well. that would be fine I hope. getting it done this coming week. I will keep you posted. thanks again
Rafael Grullon well how did it go, I have the same bang noise on a 2002 Z with 74k miles.
They changed that torque spec tp 107 lbs on lower bolt
You don't have to take off the upper controlbar the shock of slide up in there that's one step do you definitely don't have to do
Sorry, everything wrong in this Video. If you watch it, dont do it like hes done.
First, you dont need to remove any Control Arms. Everything is build that way, that you can easyly change it.
Second, you dont need to remove any Parts under the hood, like in 8:00. There is a tiny space under the Tank where you can go through with the Hexagon Key.
Changing Shocks ist a work for half an hour, without removing anything.
Hi. Good comment to the work. Maybe a stupid question, but is it necessary to adjust the steering geometry after the shock replacement job? Thanks in advantage.
@@Wagabugu No it is not nessesary, because the Ride Hight are the same. Shocks dont change the Ride Hight.
But ... Adjusting the Steering and Wheel Geometry is always good after 2-3 years, when you drive the Car fast and sporty.
When you dont drive on the Limit, you dont have to adjust it.
Thank you very much kallo182 for the quick answer! With kind regards.
Is the shock the same height as the stock ones?
Yes I believe so. I removed some older Bilstein Sport shocks, so I didn't have OE shocks to compare with.
Cost?
Does it sit higher
No change in ride height. You can adjust the ride height bolts if you need to make adjustments.
What about the ride control messages that pop up on the car
Sounds like you have the magnetic ride control shocks which are different than the standard shocks.
Way to show how to remove the rear shock
Is it possible to do the fronts without disconnecting the upper control arms?
Zip-ty method.
You dont need to remove any control arms.
Is the rear shocks connected to a sensor or some type of cable? When I removed it it was attached to like a cable
Only if they're the magnetic dampers
Depending on your year, this means you have the F45 or F55 suspension. Another indicator is a 3 position switch in the center of your console with Tour, Sport, Performance settings. If this is the case you can switch to Bilstein shocks, but will either have to purchase some resistor caps to plug into your wiring loom or disconnect the active suspension module and have a GM tech reprogram your BCM with a TEC II update to remove the F45 or F55 option from your vehicle. I recommend the latter. You can also purchase the active replacement shocks from GM for somewhere between $300 and $400 per shock.