I'm in the process of rebuilding a '73 TR5T and a friend with an awful lot of experience with Triumphs offered that we no longer "reface" either the carb mounting surface nor get the heads planed on classics, that we can't easily reclaim that real estate once it's gone. He said for the carb faces you tap the "ears" with a suitable tool, like a softish mallet. For heads, get them "pressed" to take the warp out. After checking the carb for true I found it did need surfacing, but instead of doing what I used to do, wet and dry on a true flat surface, I used a mallet on the carb "ears", and it worked a treat. I was worried the :ears" may break, but with gentle-ish tapping and checking as I went, we were in business. My head does have a warp due, I think, from someone not checking the "crush" of the seals on the pushrod towers, a common problem for those that are unaware. I hope I can get away from addressing it and hope it will "pull down" when torquing the head as it didn't leak before I dismantled the engine. Learning and knowledge is an ongoing voyage. I enjoy watching your videos. Thank you
E I usually synch them on the bike with the slides closed and make sure they lift together, but your way is better for full throttle work. I always hold the needle jet up to the light and make sure the emulsion holes are clear. They only seem to clog up if the bike has been sitting a long time, in which case every hole in the damn thing will be full of powdered dinosaur remains. Yuck. Keep up the good work. I have a new video up. Have a look.
Excellent. Our techniques differ slightly, but the outcome is the same. I never thought thought of using smoke to check the passageways before. Very good! Non-smokers can do the same thing with a squirt of carb cleaner. Or call up a friend who smokes and have him bring some beer as well... Note: I broke this comment in two to fit in the space. Explains the wayward E.
@lunmad Hi John. I have "acquired" an old set of burning/welding torch cleaning wires of all sizes from amal pilot size upwards, just in case you lose your bits of wire you can beg or borrow a set (of course you would NEVER steal) Cheers Dave
the stock carbs can be bored and sleeved to be perfect round regardless of any distortion of the carby body. , the stainless tube used to sleeve them stays round and lasts forever... b. An ultrasonic cleaner with water based degreaser will get them shiny-new and completely clean , -including the pilot holes ;-)
Hi 67giacomo, I am just getting round to swapping my cylinder head, so when it's on I will do one then :-) but basicly they want turning until you achieve smooth running at tickover.
Hi DrMotorDude, I have never used one, but I have seen the results, quite impressive on the main bodies but I can see them having limitations in small "well blocked" galleries, the only thing for these is a good poke out or re-drilling.
@lunmad Hi J. I have fitted a MK1 to my Bullet but it will not run without full choke on. I remembered this vid and now think the pilot hole may be blocked or partially blocked. I will whip it off and strip it down...again. I thought it was clear coz I could blow through it but I was probably just blowing through the air intake holes NOT the fuel gallery. OH BUGGER!!! I want it ready for a rally near Carlisle the late May bank holiday weekend and I still need an MOT DOUBLE BUGGER. Cheers Dave
@lunmad Hi J, Pleased the forceps came in handy. V Rossi is not the only "Doctor" now!! If you can give me a bit of warning when and where you will be on your trip North I will see if it is on my days off, a meeting sounds great. Look forward to it. Cheers Dave. PS I have checked and set the float level which was out by quite a bit so will give it another go. Dave
@notwocdivad Hi Dave :-) It sounds like you are on the right track with the blocked pilot, it could also be the float level set a tad low. I will be getting up north in the next few weeks (to see Chris) maybe a meet up can be arranged :-)
@lunmad Is the Boyer ignition interfering with the camera? My boyer "micro power" came with resistor caps to cut down on radio interference jamming the ignition boxes electronics. Great videos btw, thank you.
When lowering the float height, how do you keep from damaging the hole in the bottom of the float needle seat? I'm not sure if my Amal carbs are different than yours, but on mine, if I'm looking up from below there's a hole in the casting that's not much bigger than the hole in the bottom of the brass seat. Seems like banging a small drift or punch into it might widen or damage the hole in the brass piece. I'm trying to raise my float height, so I need to lower the seat (which seems easier) but I'm worried if I go too low I'll have trouble getting the darn thing back up. Not much meat to connect with on the underside of the seat.
@notwocdivad Hi Dave :-) I have used them nozzle cleaners before you have to be careful with them though as they are made like a "rat-tail" file and the holes in brass jets can easily be made too big with them. Ps I just used them forceps to fix my specs after I stood on them "Duh!" and snapped an arm off! nowt that could'nt be fixed with a bit of copper wire and solder!! :-D
@hambone120 Hi Hambone120 :-) I have been trying to make an airscrew setup vid (not so successful) :-( for some reason my camera trips out when I get too close to the motor !? but I will keep working on it.
Hi Lunmad, just finished giving my carb a good cleaning, when I turn on the gas it leaks directly from the tickler hole alot....point me in the right direction?
Tickler not in proper position. There should be a roll pin inside the tickler tube which is what presses on the float to open the float valve. If that pin is too far down you might be getting the float pushed down/valve open without any tickler pressing. If that is not your issue, re-check float height as Lunmad shows in his videos.
@Pipewing Hi Pipewing :-) It could be interference when I did the strobe vid the camera went off a few times. In saying this I have knocked the camera flying more than a few times and its still going :-D
Hi Haya :-) I eventually replaced my carbs, what a difference. I did manage to keep them going for thirty odd years farting about like this. If you have the money replace if not fart about they will never be perfect but you can keep them going.
just watched your vid because my new cables were doing my fkin head in. then i noticed the "didley bits on the end of your cables "to stop em falling thro" ...i'v got them,but unlike yours mine also has adjusters screwed into the tops of the carbs !!! thats why my slides were half open. thank you ...thank you....thank you. never been so happy to watch a vid. anyone using the ring type insulators on the carb bolts to the studs (as apposed to rubber washer and dished collar/washer ?)
There are two different types of cable end fittings (at least being sold for Norton Commando - I don't know about Triumph but it may be similar. One is a small barrel on the tip of the outer sleeve - this slips into the carb top adjuster a treat. The other type has a tiny top hat flange; the flange stops it going into that adjuster properly, I can only guess that there's an adjuster type that properly receives that top-hat but I've never seen one. I think that this is something that will trip someone up installing carbs or new cables. If I try to use the top hat diddly bit connector into my Commando,, it will not allow the inner cable to go far enough down to drop the slide all the way -- meaning the slowest idle that I can get with this mis-match is 3000 RPM. It's necessary to check the diddly bits on the tips of the cable outers and make sure that they match your carbs.
Hi Steve SUs don't have a diaphragm it's all alloy. I'm not sure what your symptom is but to check mixture there should be a small button outside the carb at the bottom when pressed it will lift the slide when pressed a little the motor should falter then settle down, if not the main jet (large nut at bottom) can be turned in or out until required mixture is achieved.
Hi it's tick over fine top end great mid range up and down the gears nothing then shoots away as if it's starved of fuel rode her 600 miles back from ireland and started acting up at durham thank god
If I have slides that are sticky ( because of distortion ) and before flatting the manifold face I put the carb in a vice and rest the bolt mounting holes against two pieces of 3/8" thick small pieces of wood so that the intake hole is bridging the gap. I put the slide in and then tighten the vice until the slide drops in. Now the body is round and not oval. Then I take the slide out and give a little extra squeeze on the vice to over correct until the slide moves without restriction.
Yes, Francis. I have seen this. And I have mixed feelings -- new Amals are £220 - 250 per pair and I don't want to throw money away on new carbs if I can fix the ones I've got; but on the other hand, I've seen some carb bodies so distorted that they appear straight after they are "squeezed" as you've said but "memory" will return them in a few hours to the point that they nip-up the slide. And I really don't want a hanging slide. So, if the carb body is really distorted badly, then new carburettors must be fitted. The problem is knowing just when the line has been crossed. And I think you'll agree - if a float bowl or fixing flange needs to be flattened by grinding, it's almost certainly down to overtightening on the fasteners.
Nice to see gentleman making comments that are useful and not hateful like on a lot of other vids. Hats off to all.
thanks heaps for this video, i just bought a 1978 t140v and cleaned the carbs and it runs like a damn dream now.
I'm in the process of rebuilding a '73 TR5T and a friend with an awful lot of experience with Triumphs offered that we no longer "reface" either the carb mounting surface nor get the heads planed on classics, that we can't easily reclaim that real estate once it's gone. He said for the carb faces you tap the "ears" with a suitable tool, like a softish mallet. For heads, get them "pressed" to take the warp out.
After checking the carb for true I found it did need surfacing, but instead of doing what I used to do, wet and dry on a true flat surface, I used a mallet on the carb "ears", and it worked a treat. I was worried the :ears" may break, but with gentle-ish tapping and checking as I went, we were in business.
My head does have a warp due, I think, from someone not checking the "crush" of the seals on the pushrod towers, a common problem for those that are unaware. I hope I can get away from addressing it and hope it will "pull down" when torquing the head as it didn't leak before I dismantled the engine.
Learning and knowledge is an ongoing voyage.
I enjoy watching your videos. Thank you
E
I usually synch them on the bike with the slides closed and make sure they lift together, but your way is better for full throttle work.
I always hold the needle jet up to the light and make sure the emulsion holes are clear. They only seem to clog up if the bike has been sitting a long time, in which case every hole in the damn thing will be full of powdered dinosaur remains. Yuck.
Keep up the good work.
I have a new video up. Have a look.
Excellent. Our techniques differ slightly, but the outcome is the same.
I never thought thought of using smoke to check the passageways before. Very good!
Non-smokers can do the same thing with a squirt of carb cleaner. Or call up a friend who smokes and have him bring some beer as well...
Note: I broke this comment in two to fit in the space. Explains the wayward E.
@lunmad Hi John. I have "acquired" an old set of burning/welding torch cleaning wires of all sizes from amal pilot size upwards, just in case you lose your bits of wire you can beg or borrow a set (of course you would NEVER steal) Cheers Dave
the stock carbs can be bored and sleeved to be perfect round regardless of any distortion of the carby body. , the stainless tube used to sleeve them stays round and lasts forever... b. An ultrasonic cleaner with water based degreaser will get them shiny-new and completely clean , -including the pilot holes ;-)
Hi 67giacomo,
I am just getting round to swapping my cylinder head,
so when it's on I will do one then :-)
but basicly they want turning until you achieve smooth running at tickover.
Top man, great videos
Thanks for a nice clear video, I've an Enfield with an Amal that won't idle without choke after running the tank empty - I know where to look now :-)
Hi DrMotorDude,
I have never used one, but I have seen the results, quite impressive on the main bodies
but I can see them having limitations in small "well blocked" galleries,
the only thing for these is a good poke out or re-drilling.
@djspidy
cheers djspidy :-)
that a nice Trident you have, I ran a T150 c/w ray guns for a while
it sounded awesome when wound on.
thanks only got the ! carb very informative, easier than trying to decode a book!!!!!!
@lunmad Hi J. I have fitted a MK1 to my Bullet but it will not run without full choke on. I remembered this vid and now think the pilot hole may be blocked or partially blocked. I will whip it off and strip it down...again. I thought it was clear coz I could blow through it but I was probably just blowing through the air intake holes NOT the fuel gallery. OH BUGGER!!! I want it ready for a rally near Carlisle the late May bank holiday weekend and I still need an MOT DOUBLE BUGGER. Cheers Dave
@lunmad Hi J, Pleased the forceps came in handy. V Rossi is not the only "Doctor" now!! If you can give me a bit of warning when and where you will be on your trip North I will see if it is on my days off, a meeting sounds great. Look forward to it. Cheers Dave. PS I have checked and set the float level which was out by quite a bit so will give it another go. Dave
I just bought a set of microdrills on ebay which includes a 0.4mm ( $9.95 for 6 ) - ideal for cleaning out the pilot
Are you going to do a video on the air intake screw. On how you adjust them with the bike running.
@notwocdivad
Hi Dave :-)
It sounds like you are on the right track with the blocked pilot, it could also be the float level set a tad low.
I will be getting up north in the next few weeks (to see Chris) maybe a meet up can be arranged :-)
very nice work you've done there cleaning that dusty carb, from time to time it looked like you were smoking drugs in a huge metal pipe ;D
Amalbong.
@jonnightrain Hi there :-)
I would rather see stuff done, than read how it's done.
It's so much easier I learned most of my stuff watching and asking.
Bro.. I'm 74 and those manuals drive me crazy.... seeing is believing. Love your channel-subbing immediately.... Cheers from Texas.
@lunmad Is the Boyer ignition interfering with the camera? My boyer "micro power" came with resistor caps to cut down on radio interference jamming the ignition boxes electronics. Great videos btw, thank you.
When lowering the float height, how do you keep from damaging the hole in the bottom of the float needle seat? I'm not sure if my Amal carbs are different than yours, but on mine, if I'm looking up from below there's a hole in the casting that's not much bigger than the hole in the bottom of the brass seat. Seems like banging a small drift or punch into it might widen or damage the hole in the brass piece. I'm trying to raise my float height, so I need to lower the seat (which seems easier) but I'm worried if I go too low I'll have trouble getting the darn thing back up. Not much meat to connect with on the underside of the seat.
@notwocdivad
Hi Dave :-)
I have used them nozzle cleaners before you have to be careful with them though
as they are made like a "rat-tail" file and the holes in brass jets can easily be made too big with them.
Ps I just used them forceps to fix my specs after I stood on them "Duh!" and snapped an arm off!
nowt that could'nt be fixed with a bit of copper wire and solder!! :-D
@hambone120 Hi Hambone120 :-)
I have been trying to make an airscrew setup vid (not so successful) :-(
for some reason my camera trips out when I get too close to the motor !?
but I will keep working on it.
Hi Lunmad, just finished giving my carb a good cleaning, when I turn on the gas it leaks directly from the tickler hole alot....point me in the right direction?
Tickler not in proper position. There should be a roll pin inside the tickler tube which is what presses on the float to open the float valve. If that pin is too far down you might be getting the float pushed down/valve open without any tickler pressing. If that is not your issue, re-check float height as Lunmad shows in his videos.
@Pipewing
Hi Pipewing :-)
It could be interference when I did the strobe vid the camera went off a few times.
In saying this I have knocked the camera flying more than a few times and its still going :-D
Carb cleaner spray is safer than poking with a wire.
i have spent 2 weeks pissing about with my old 1976 Amals. Just ordered a new pair for £220 .. a no brainer
Hi Haya :-) I eventually replaced my carbs, what a difference. I did manage to keep them going for thirty odd years farting about like this. If you have the money replace if not fart about they will never be perfect but you can keep them going.
just watched your vid because my new cables were doing my fkin head in.
then i noticed the "didley bits on the end of your cables "to stop em falling
thro" ...i'v got them,but unlike yours mine also has adjusters screwed into the tops of the
carbs !!! thats why my slides were half open.
thank you ...thank you....thank you.
never been so happy to watch a vid.
anyone using the ring type insulators on the carb bolts to the studs (as apposed to rubber washer and dished collar/washer ?)
There are two different types of cable end fittings (at least being sold for Norton Commando - I don't know about Triumph but it may be similar. One is a small barrel on the tip of the outer sleeve - this slips into the carb top adjuster a treat. The other type has a tiny top hat flange; the flange stops it going into that adjuster properly, I can only guess that there's an adjuster type that properly receives that top-hat but I've never seen one.
I think that this is something that will trip someone up installing carbs or new cables. If I try to use the top hat diddly bit connector into my Commando,, it will not allow the inner cable to go far enough down to drop the slide all the way -- meaning the slowest idle that I can get with this mis-match is 3000 RPM.
It's necessary to check the diddly bits on the tips of the cable outers and make sure that they match your carbs.
Hi mate me again the su carburettor on my t140 e been told the problems I'm having is the diagram is it easy changed
Hi Steve SUs don't have a diaphragm it's all alloy. I'm not sure what your symptom is but to check mixture there should be a small button outside the carb at the bottom when pressed it will lift the slide when pressed a little the motor should falter then settle down, if not the main jet (large nut at bottom) can be turned in or out until required mixture is achieved.
Hi it's tick over fine top end great mid range up and down the gears nothing then shoots away as if it's starved of fuel rode her 600 miles back from ireland and started acting up at durham thank god
Someone say mite have wrong needle mite race needle in and that's y good tick over and good top end wot they need for racing
If I have slides that are sticky ( because of distortion ) and before flatting the manifold face I put the carb in a vice and rest the bolt mounting holes against two pieces of 3/8" thick small pieces of wood so that the intake hole is bridging the gap. I put the slide in and then tighten the vice until the slide drops in. Now the body is round and not oval. Then I take the slide out and give a little extra squeeze on the vice to over correct until the slide moves without restriction.
Yes, Francis. I have seen this. And I have mixed feelings -- new Amals are £220 - 250 per pair and I don't want to throw money away on new carbs if I can fix the ones I've got; but on the other hand, I've seen some carb bodies so distorted that they appear straight after they are "squeezed" as you've said but "memory" will return them in a few hours to the point that they nip-up the slide. And I really don't want a hanging slide. So, if the carb body is really distorted badly, then new carburettors must be fitted. The problem is knowing just when the line has been crossed.
And I think you'll agree - if a float bowl or fixing flange needs to be flattened by grinding, it's almost certainly down to overtightening on the fasteners.
@egpg2000
:-) cheers egpg2000