I’m sitting in cold wet North Wales watching your fantastic videos and learning so much about what I need to consider when attempting my first boat build. One of the most important things I’ve come to realise is that its a skilful, involved, expensive and time consuming business that’s not to be rushed. So for now I’ll watch and learn and wait until my kids are out of my hair. Nadolig Llawen, which is Happy Christmas in Welsh.
Beautiful work Bob. I started a little out of sequence with the bit about the clamps. As a retired plumber who has had lead blow up when the mold was wet, I would caution that when pouring the lead into any mold to make sure that everything is dry. A heat gun will dry the plywood/steel mold area in the centerboard and pre-heating the molds for the excess lead on the lead crucible is an easy way to dry them. Any ingots that are to be remelted should be heated if they are added to molten lead as should the raw scrap lead. Please be careful with molten metals.
Ha sido un placer haberte descubierto; compartimos la misma afición por los barcos y tabien por las cosas hechas con gusto. Me encanta saludarte y que te voy a seguir , un placer conocerte. Pedro
Really enjoying this series. Remarkable how you can cast into the wood without major charring. Looking forward to watching the rest take shape. Thank you.
Wow! I found this channel when doing a search for half hull model building. Those videos are excellent. Then I went back and found the series on the Haven 12 1/2. I’ve been binge watching most of a half day. Amazingly, one of my favorite sculptures is a few miles away on the Bellair Causeway and now I’ve stumbled onto the artist. Beautiful craftsmanship and presentation in your videos. I owned a Joel White designed boat, the Sakonnet 23 for over a decade. A bit different take on a daysailer design than the Haven but it served us well for many hundreds of outings. Mr. Emers, you are a Renaissance Man. Bravo!
The quality of your work is beautiful as are your video’s. Thank you for taking the time to share your skills, knowledge and building techniques, it’s great. Really do enjoy your video’s. Jack/in Missouri
These are fantastic videos. Thanks so much. As a sailor who aspires to boat builder status I love getting an insight into how all of the little pieces go together. Cheers and keep 'em coming!
Your amazing project has me thinking about the boat I want to build and how I want to build it. I really appreciate your taking time to show what you are doing and your thoughts around why. I have this huge debate running in my head about using traditional wood boat materials compared to using plywood and epoxy. I am realizing two things: 1. I need to remember what my boat will be used for - Sailing but needs to be trailerable because I plan to sail in both the local lakes and the ocean. 2. I need to be able to build it in my garage. I know I want to build a wood boat, but I am getting over the fact that I need to use modern materials to ensure it has good life being out of the water more than in. I am appreciating your selections of materials and coatings and seeing how the form and function and ART of building the boat is present. Really enjoying your video series.
Terrific series - very interesting seeing that lead melting and pouring process. I must say, the thought of building this, my favourite day sailor design by far, was hugely intimidating. But the way you’re breaking down the steps is encouraging and inspirational. The well-lit and clear camera work is also hugely helpful.
Love watching your build! On my much smaller 12' CLC Passagemaker, I used graphite powder mixed in the epoxy for the interior of the daggerboard case (along with glassing the interior), prior to assembly. The graphite is not only for abrasion resistance, but also acts as a dry lubricant. It works amazingly well after a half dozen sails. Looking forward to the next episode!
Going back through your older videos. Thinking I would like to build the Haven also. Love the lines and the challenge of the build. I’ve been apprehensive about the keel and the lead needing a source. Still apprehensive but willing to try. Thanks for your pioneering through your build.
Hi.Enjoying your videos.Thanks a lot for the effort. One request.Could you please do a tutorial on the whole centerboard installation,and how is attached and how is basically functioning.For beginners that would be valuable a lot.Greetings from Serbia
Glad you like them and that they are helping. Congratulation on working towards you boat build. I'm alway available for a free consultation. You can schedule a call at: calendly.com/artofboatbuilding/boat-building. Let's talk! Cheers, Bob
Just found the channel and subscribed. I’m an experienced woodworker and now a novice boat builder working on my first small craft. Appreciate the work put into and knowledge I gain from these videos 👍🏻
Thank you very much for the videos! I’m an amateur boat builder/restorer and really enjoy watching your methods and appreciate the detail and explanations during your work. Keep’em coming! Duke Similly
I'm surprised the plan did not call for more shaping of the leading edge beyond just a roundover bit. Given the thickness of the centerboard, you could easily get a more airfoil shape without significant extra work and the flow over the leading edge will produce much less drag. This would greatly improve the windward performance of the boat as the board won't stall as easily. By the way, having grown up in New England around many, many Herreshoff 12s (my dad has had a Bullseye, the fiberglass successor designed by L. Francis for 50 years) I am really enjoying seeing the details of how these are traditionally put together. Thanks!
I always remember the tight fit of the swing centerboard on my old first boat. As I recall, there was not that much clearance to spare, and we would keep a sawed-off hockey stick to push down with sometimes during swelling. I can't wait to see how it turns out! Great job with the lead pour.
Really enjoying your videos! Great looking job and I like your style of intro, then a mix of voiceover and ‘live’ commentary. Super high quality video and audio. Keep up the amazing work and quality of build!
I just watched this video with and found it most enjoyable especially as i am not venturing out (Covid) plus recovering from a Stroke. I am sure you know this but didn't mention it the only way to reliably attach lead is by mechanical means as you did as it reacts with oxygen in seconds or less and is resistant to adhesive
Very much am enjoying your boat build. Thanks for taking the time to tape this for us. This looks to be a very beautiful boat. Your attention to detail will make it so.
I think a good idea, and common pratice is to make your pivot hole oversized fill the hole with epoxy and silica filler and redrill. Your pivot hole won,t rot over time.
Very awesome project. Your stitch and glue was nice but this is serious boat building. That boat will last forever. You should build a nice great lakes touring boat. Like a wharram 30' tiki!!! Take your whole family for a week long trip!!
I suggest that you wrap cotton wadding around both ends of the bronze bolts that tie the centerboard trunk together. After the nut is tightened, that should prevent fresh water from getting into the holes in the oak and plywood, and causing deterioration.
Enjoying the series. I like the tidiness of everything, both the work and the video production! One tip, though: maybe up the volume on the voice recording, it's a bit low. :)
Bob, Still catching up on previous videos and I have to ask-How do you do the work you do with epoxy and not wear it on all of your clothes? In all of my experience with epoxy and other glues once you open the can you find it everywhere on everything and yet when you're done you still look like you just walked into the studio. Amazing! Thank you for the excellent videos. The step by step descriptions you give as you work help to understand the process without any gaps or guessing. Thank you again.
Great video production and appreciate your detailed description of the steps you take. I plan to build a Ross Lillystone Flint boat soon and try to pick up building tips. So glad I found your channel.
Hi Bob. Another truly enjoyable and educational video! I've a question to run past you please. At about 14:15 you show the power saw set to a 45 degree angle, so as to cut the openings into the two plywood boards that together, will be your centerboard. You said you cut one board at a time. Your lead weight will be situated in this opening. So the sides of the opening will be 'V' shaped, but which way? If the boards are placed atop one another one way, you'll get the sides of the opening having a vertex of the 'V' of each side of the cut-out, going TOWARD the opposite side of the cut-out. Now from THAT arrangement, if you slide the bottom board from under the upper board, and DON'T flip either board, then lay what had been the bottom board atop the other board, the 'V' vertex of all four sides will point AWAY from the opposite side of the cut-out. I didn't see clearly which way you had the boards attached to one another, when you did the lead pour. And another point here, at 23:10 I was surprised that molten lead could be poured into a marine plywood sided mold, (with a steel plate base) without starting a FIRE!!! Really, Really Surprised! As you were about to pour, I was expecting you to need to use the fire extinguisher in the now burning centerboard!!! But I was HAPPY TO SEE that my fear was baseless!!! WOW!!!
The 2 centerboard sides have the deepest part of the V to the inside. I think you can see it at 14:50. The boards don't catch on fire because fire needs oxygen to ignite. The lead seals off the air before it gets to a flash point. Fun huh! In episode 15 "Casting Lead Ballast Keel" I pour almost 700 LBS of lead in a wooden mold. Thanks for watching and your great question! Cheers!
I'd suggest looking into some hollow ground screwdriver bits - they are often sold as gunsmithing bits. The hollow grind allows full bearing of the bit against the slot in the screw, which greatly reduces the chances of marring the head of the screw. The common screwdrivers are more like mini pry bars, and have a tapered tip when viewed on the cross section. This results in only the top of the slot being in contact with the screwdriver, and leads to damage that could have been avoided with the hollow ground bits.
Outstanding job on the centerboard and trunk. Just wondering why you did not wrap the centerboard in fiberglass as the plywood is exposed to the water and any dings in the paint may allow seepage. You lead pour went so smooth compared to several ones I have seen that turned out bad. Bullets and car tire weights are great sources for lead, Check out any old buildings being tour down for lead flashing around vent pipes and such. Looking forward to your next video.
Just recently stumbled upon your channel, and subscribed. Very good work, and you're doing a terrific job of documenting it. Really looking forward to following along as your project progresses. During the past Winter I designed a 13 1/2' sailing dinghy that I'm intending to start work on this Summer (which I'll be documenting on my channel). Watching your channel is giving me lots of motivation to get started.
Your videos are thoughtful and very educational. I have a question regarding the centerboard trunk and centerboard. Do the plans call for a bushing on the trunk to pivot pin connection for the centerboard and how do you keep that part watertight?
I bought the book on building the haven. I'm wondering if you did also. I have a background in art and learn visually. The book is confusing. It helps watching you work it through.
Hi Gregory, Yes, I have that book. It's not very good as in instruction manual for building the Haven. It leave a lot of information out and the brief descriptions are just that brief! I believe it was published in the late 1980's so the illustrations are of very pour quality. I, like you, get most of my information visually so the lack of quality images is a big minus. The main book I've used is Greg Rössel's book "Building Small Boat" as my main reference. Here is a link: www.woodenboatstore.com/products/building-small-boats?variant=16904410857562¤cy=USD&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpc7648Kd6wIV0cDACh2RuQJ8EAQYASABEgIdlvD_BwE
thanks for showing good work. Just a question : would it be nice to have a bronze bushing at the pivot point of the ruder, instead a bronze bult -wood hole set-up?
Nice job on the centreboard assembly. I wondered if a couple of dowels would help align the centreboard plates when gluing, but it didn't seem necessary. The lead pour went well too. I did see a vid where someone was recovering lead from ranges and a couple of un discharged rounds went off during the smelt
Dale Skidmore Thank, right cutting the two half’s as one made it easy to align. Small discrepancy were cleaned up with sanding the edges. Thanks for the ammunition heads up. I’ve been sifting through beforehand I will now keep a keener eye for any.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks, I had also anticipated much more charring, but I guess the melting point is also pretty low and cools quickly when it touches the wood.
Hi mate, I’m from Australia, Queensland and I am very interested in learning about wooden boat construction . Especially the one that you are doing in this video. I have a lot of experience with making solid timber furniture but I wouldn’t like to try to float the type of furniture I made . I am now semi retired and still have most of my tools in the shed . I would like to build one of those you are doing now. Do you sell the plans for them? Thanks heaps for sharing your valuable knowledge with us. Sincerely, Graeme.
Hi Graeme, The Haven is a very enjoyable boat to build. With your furniture back ground you should be well equipped to build one. The plans are sold by the Wooden Boat Store which is in Brooklin, Maine, where Joel White designed the boat. www.woodenboatstore.com/products/16-haven-12-1-2-class?variant=16904448573530 Cheers Mate!
I got mine from my local yard (RP Lumber) Recently one of my online boat builders suggested Homestead Hardwoods 6910 County Road 249 Vickery, Ohio 43464 www.marine-plywood.us/ Hope that helps.
Parabéns, acompanho o seu trabalho e sou muito admirado e feliz com sua dedicação em explicar cada detalhe. Excelente vídeo, lindo veleiro. Estou ansioso para o próximo.
Does the cartridge on the respirator filter out dangerous lead fumes? I remember reading lots of debates about this, and I don't recall that there was a consensus. I concluded that I'd never make a boat that required melting lead. (An alternative approach is to take lead pellets and encase them in epoxy.) Also, sanding lead puts lead dust all over the place. The filter on the respirator keeps you from breathing the dust during the sanding, but I wonder if one needs an air cleaner as well since the dust can remain in the air. And then there's dust all over the surfaces, etc. Lead scares me.
West Systems (epoxy)recommends a minimum for most epoxy users is gloves, eye protection, and protective clothing. Working with epoxy should be done in well ventilated spaces. If is a small space, such as a boat cabin, with little ventilation a respirator should be worn. The approved respiratory protection against epoxy dust, wood dust, and nuisance dust is a dust/mist mask with an N95 rating or respirator. My large studio with 25" ceiling is well ventilated. Most of the time I do wear a mask or respirator. I do remove it during video shoots as it almost impossible to pick up and audio. Thanks for your question and watching! Cheers, Bob
I really like the quality and detailed content of your posts. I have just flipped over the planked hull of a Leadlight 14. Your first boat reminds me of my project quite a bit. My next boat will be A H12 1/2 or a variant. So I am very interested in your Haven 12 1/2. My question is why didn’t you glass the center board as you did the inside faces of the center board trunk for wear? Keep up the great work on the videos.
Joe Cerami thanks, I did epoxy the centerboard so I feel comfortable with its durability. Also the centerboard can be removed if repair is needed, unlike the centerboard trunk. Exciting times with your Leadlight.
Bob, Just found your channel it's great. Why not put unthickened epoxy on your board trunk pieces and the center board prices before applying the thickened epoxy? Wouldn't that give better adhesion? Keep up the great video's.
Thanks for the question. There isn't an advantage to using thickened epoxy first. A second coat needs to be applied before the first coat cures. If the first coat does cure the second coat will not adhere with out sanding. Glad your enjoying the videos.
I did epoxy the centerboard. Fiberglass is a reinforcement for the epoxy. The thickness of the centerboard, 1" and the wood fibers are more than enough. The centerboard is removeable if it ever needed repair. I only use glass cloth where I could not ever get to it. Thanks Pierre, I'm glad you are enjoying the videos.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding I understand your point, I'm just stating that, from my point of view, since the centerboard is the lowest part, it is more likely to hit the bottom. So vinylester combined with epoxy resin is a very strong protection against abrasion. Keep up the good work, cant wait for your next video
I enjoy your videos very much, you inspire me to build my own boat, because of space might not be able to do it right now, but I would like to ask you, what software do you recommend to make the designs and at list have them print in a 3D printer until I get the chance to make it in full scale? Thank you for your videos keep posting them, you are great!!
Sorry, 3D software is not in my wheel house. I still prefer to draw with paper and pencil. Thanks so much of your watching, support, and kind comments.
So, from someone who doesn't know much about boats; Does the center board act as a belly/hull/keel fin? Is this an item that gets drawn into the boat for shallow waters, and dropped for deeper waters for stability? I'm trying to piece this together in my mind so I can understand the theory behind this piece you just built and why it has a pivot point. Thanks.
Thomas Russell yes, the center trunk houses the center board. The center board does retract into the trunk and is let down when sailing. That’s the reason for the lead weight, so it will stay down.
Maybe this has been said Noticed you used same putty knive in two part fairing compound Co-mingling surely reduces shelf life of your compound Btw Great content
Are you using wax for your screws? It really makes driving them in easy. I've found that mixing bees wax with paint thinner gets it to a nice stable consistency. Just discovered your channel, keep up the good work!
Hey Bob, Arnaud here. We're building a Haven 12 1/2 with my brother. We're ahead of you to this day, since we just finished planking the hull during the Easter holiday. Are you really going to cast the lead keel ballast? We were thinking of having it done, instead. Shooting ranges are not that common in France, so sourcing 300 kg lead might be tricky. I guess you're following Maynard Bray's book for building this boat, so casting the keel won't be before a few months, but, how will you proceed? Thanks for your reply, and for making these awesome videos. I subscribed on first view!
Hi Arnaud, Yes, I am going to cast the ballast keel myself. As you know it isn't needed for some time in the build. However, I plan on casting it yet this summer so I can get it done before inclement weather. Not following Maynard's book, I found it lacking in allot of information. If I had to pick one book (have about 5 I refer too.)is "Building Small Boats" By Greg Rössel.(link in bio) Reclaimed lead is a challenge. One source I have heard others doing is to find an old sailboat that is not sea worthy. Many time the boat is free if you dispose of it. Casting metal is not hard but can be a mystery if not having done any. After 40+ years as a sculptor casting a low melting point metal just sounds like fun! Best of luck with your build. Stay in touch I'll be interest is how it's going.
Thanks for the reply! I did cast a small elf figure once, in my D&D years. Can't be much different, but for the scale! :) I'm starting a 1:10 scale model of the boat; I thought it might help troubleshooting on the real thing. I almost finished resizing the plans in Rhino. It occured to me that, on the centerboard trunk, it might be convenient to draw a line, or screw a batten now, that would help locate the height of the floor beams. Can't see how you can draw them once the hull is closed. What do you think?
Ya that was my thought as well. or maybe fiberglass with cloth once you have assembled the whole trunk Many different approaches. It does look like you know what you are doing.
You not only are doing a great job on the boat but in addition your style of doing your video's suits me well. To much talk for me is a distraction. Most you tubers talk down to there audience and that drives me crazy. Oh, I have spent many years in Mystic and some at the seaport, I saw you at the boat show. You did well. Justsayin RC
I apologize for stopping your video to go look up the cost of a gallon of bottom paint a few minutes before you mentioned the cost. The last time I bought it, I was rolling it on at $200+ a gallon and then paying a diver to rub it off for a smooth bottom to race with. Who said boats make financial sense?
Hi David, Can hardly believe it's been almost 2 year since I made the centerboard. My plan is to epoxy a bronze bearing in the hole with a bronze through bolt. Thanks for your question and watching. Cheers, Bob
I’m sitting in cold wet North Wales watching your fantastic videos and learning so much about what I need to consider when attempting my first boat build.
One of the most important things I’ve come to realise is that its a skilful, involved, expensive and time consuming business that’s not to be rushed. So for now I’ll watch and learn and wait until my kids are out of my hair.
Nadolig Llawen, which is Happy Christmas in Welsh.
Beautiful work Bob. I started a little out of sequence with the bit about the clamps. As a retired plumber who has had lead blow up when the mold was wet, I would caution that when pouring the lead into any mold to make sure that everything is dry. A heat gun will dry the plywood/steel mold area in the centerboard and pre-heating the molds for the excess lead on the lead crucible is an easy way to dry them. Any ingots that are to be remelted should be heated if they are added to molten lead as should the raw scrap lead. Please be careful with molten metals.
Great episode Bob. Thanks for sharing!
Well, learned something new today. Thanks for the video.
Ha sido un placer haberte descubierto; compartimos la misma afición por los barcos y tabien por las cosas hechas con gusto. Me encanta saludarte y que te voy a seguir , un placer conocerte. Pedro
Hola Pedro,
Bienvenido a bordo. Estoy muy feliz de que estés disfrutando de los videos ¡Gracias por verlos!
salud.
Bob
Fantastic explanation of each sequence and demonstration of the skills required.
Great start. After viewing a number of episodes from 2022, I enjoyed hearing your backstory. 👍
Really enjoying this series. Remarkable how you can cast into the wood without major charring. Looking forward to watching the rest take shape. Thank you.
Wow! I found this channel when doing a search for half hull model building. Those videos are excellent. Then I went back and found the series on the Haven 12 1/2. I’ve been binge watching most of a half day. Amazingly, one of my favorite sculptures is a few miles away on the Bellair Causeway and now I’ve stumbled onto the artist. Beautiful craftsmanship and presentation in your videos. I owned a Joel White designed boat, the Sakonnet 23 for over a decade. A bit different take on a daysailer design than the Haven but it served us well for many hundreds of outings. Mr. Emers, you are a Renaissance Man. Bravo!
Thanks Gary!
Great insights. I am working on the centerboard trunk for a 15’ skiff and the video is a great help.
Thanks
The quality of your work is beautiful as are your video’s. Thank you for taking the time to share your skills, knowledge and building techniques, it’s great. Really do enjoy your video’s. Jack/in Missouri
( Roly ) great video,s, look forward to the next .
Nice work !!
When you mentioned sourcing lead I was thinking "go to the local range!" Good to see that lead being put to another good use! Excellent work overall.
Nice job Bob, I'm watching your videos from the beginning, planning to make myself a sailing dinghy, thank you for your nice work, all the best!
These are fantastic videos. Thanks so much. As a sailor who aspires to boat builder status I love getting an insight into how all of the little pieces go together. Cheers and keep 'em coming!
Very nice work, love your shop!
I went back to review the earlier episodes. So much inspiration and great training. Thank you.
Your amazing project has me thinking about the boat I want to build and how I want to build it. I really appreciate your taking time to show what you are doing and your thoughts around why. I have this huge debate running in my head about using traditional wood boat materials compared to using plywood and epoxy. I am realizing two things: 1. I need to remember what my boat will be used for - Sailing but needs to be trailerable because I plan to sail in both the local lakes and the ocean. 2. I need to be able to build it in my garage. I know I want to build a wood boat, but I am getting over the fact that I need to use modern materials to ensure it has good life being out of the water more than in. I am appreciating your selections of materials and coatings and seeing how the form and function and ART of building the boat is present. Really enjoying your video series.
Nicely done from the UK
Just discovered this series but I am really enjoying it. I just wish my workshop was big enough to build one of these!
You are doing a great job!! Both with the haven and the videos, definitely doing the iconic 12 1/2 justice, thank you for sharing
Terrific series - very interesting seeing that lead melting and pouring process. I must say, the thought of building this, my favourite day sailor design by far, was hugely intimidating. But the way you’re breaking down the steps is encouraging and inspirational. The well-lit and clear camera work is also hugely helpful.
Thanks. I’m so glad you find the series helpful. I appreciate your thoughtful comment as well.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
Love watching your build! On my much smaller 12' CLC Passagemaker, I used graphite powder mixed in the epoxy for the interior of the daggerboard case (along with glassing the interior), prior to assembly. The graphite is not only for abrasion resistance, but also acts as a dry lubricant. It works amazingly well after a half dozen sails. Looking forward to the next episode!
Just catching up on prior videos(before discovering your channel.) Great way to lazily while away a Sunday Afternoon...cheers...rr Normandy France
Going back through your older videos. Thinking I would like to build the Haven also. Love the lines and the challenge of the build. I’ve been apprehensive about the keel and the lead needing a source.
Still apprehensive but willing to try. Thanks for your pioneering through your build.
Hi.Enjoying your videos.Thanks a lot for the effort.
One request.Could you please do a tutorial on the whole centerboard installation,and how is attached and how is basically functioning.For beginners that would be valuable a lot.Greetings from Serbia
I will, I haven't installed the centerboard yet. I will be one of the tasks near the end of the build.
Thanks for watching.
Bob
Thanks for making these videos! I’m learning a lot in preparation for my first boat build.
Glad you like them and that they are helping. Congratulation on working towards you boat build. I'm alway available for a free consultation. You can schedule a call at: calendly.com/artofboatbuilding/boat-building.
Let's talk!
Cheers,
Bob
Just found the channel and subscribed. I’m an experienced woodworker and now a novice boat builder working on my first small craft. Appreciate the work put into and knowledge I gain from these videos 👍🏻
Stunning work! Lovely to watch!
Hi,Bob!As always is awesome!
It looks terrific and you can always add more lead if you need it.
Really quality work, thanks for the detailed videos
Thank you very much for the videos! I’m an amateur boat builder/restorer and really enjoy watching your methods and appreciate the detail and explanations during your work. Keep’em coming!
Duke Similly
I'm surprised the plan did not call for more shaping of the leading edge beyond just a roundover bit. Given the thickness of the centerboard, you could easily get a more airfoil shape without significant extra work and the flow over the leading edge will produce much less drag. This would greatly improve the windward performance of the boat as the board won't stall as easily. By the way, having grown up in New England around many, many Herreshoff 12s (my dad has had a Bullseye, the fiberglass successor designed by L. Francis for 50 years) I am really enjoying seeing the details of how these are traditionally put together. Thanks!
I am so enjoying your series. Love the 12 1/2 and what you are doing with it. Thank you for sharing.
I always remember the tight fit of the swing centerboard on my old first boat. As I recall, there was not that much clearance to spare, and we would keep a sawed-off hockey stick to push down with sometimes during swelling. I can't wait to see how it turns out! Great job with the lead pour.
Really enjoying your videos! Great looking job and I like your style of intro, then a mix of voiceover and ‘live’ commentary. Super high quality video and audio. Keep up the amazing work and quality of build!
I’m not surprised at the attention to detail. Wish I had more of it. Love what ya do and the talent and patience it takes.
Really enjoyed this and seeing everything coming along.👍
I just watched this video with and found it most enjoyable especially as i am not venturing out (Covid) plus recovering from a Stroke. I am sure you know this but didn't mention it the only way to reliably attach lead is by mechanical means as you did as it reacts with oxygen in seconds or less and is resistant to adhesive
Very much am enjoying your boat build. Thanks for taking the time to tape this for us. This looks to be a very beautiful boat. Your attention to detail will make it so.
Just came across your channel and project. Looking forward to seeing it develop.
I think a good idea, and common pratice is to make your pivot hole oversized fill the hole with epoxy and silica filler and redrill. Your pivot hole won,t rot over time.
Very awesome project. Your stitch and glue was nice but this is serious boat building. That boat will last forever. You should build a nice great lakes touring boat. Like a wharram 30' tiki!!! Take your whole family for a week long trip!!
Once again, really enjoyed the video. you're making it look easy, which is the mark of a true craftsman. Good Onya! Cheers from Down-under,
Very talented,good to listen to and easy to follow, not that I will be building a boat any time soon
These videos are great. Well-produced and informative. And I am totally envious of the shop space.
Just watching how you do this! I am a woodworker and I love boats! Thank you.
Really enjoying the channel!
Great video! I learned a lot, thanks for sharing!!
Very cool video! I really enjoyed watching it!
Another great video Bob! You know as an artist; It always comes back to the color wheel....blue and yellow to green!! Hahahah!" DD
I suggest that you wrap cotton wadding around both ends of the bronze bolts that tie the centerboard trunk together. After the nut is tightened, that should prevent fresh water from getting into the holes in the oak and plywood, and causing deterioration.
The holes have been plugged with epoxy compound. So, no worries.
Thanks for your concern and watching!
Enjoying the series. I like the tidiness of everything, both the work and the video production! One tip, though: maybe up the volume on the voice recording, it's a bit low. :)
Mark Muller, thanks for your kind comments. I appreciate the feed back. I’ll work on the volume.
I noted this issue too! But a awesome video though. Getting better and better.
Well explained and interesting to watch. Cheers, Rob.
What stops moisture from entering the hole that you drilled in the in the centerboard at the pivot point and rotting the plywood?
Bob, Still catching up on previous videos and I have to ask-How do you do the work you do with epoxy and not wear it on all of your clothes? In all of my experience with epoxy and other glues once you open the can you find it everywhere on everything and yet when you're done you still look like you just walked into the studio. Amazing! Thank you for the excellent videos. The step by step descriptions you give as you work help to understand the process without any gaps or guessing. Thank you again.
Great video production and appreciate your detailed description of the steps you take. I plan to build a Ross Lillystone Flint boat soon and try to pick up building tips. So glad I found your channel.
Hello. I am enjoying this series. A question. Why use the sealant to assemble the trunk and not epoxy? Thx!
Hi Bob. Another truly enjoyable and educational video! I've a question to run past you please. At about 14:15 you show the power saw set to a 45 degree angle, so as to cut the openings into the two plywood boards that together, will be your centerboard. You said you cut one board at a time. Your lead weight will be situated in this opening. So the sides of the opening will be 'V' shaped, but which way? If the boards are placed atop one another one way, you'll get the sides of the opening having a vertex of the 'V' of each side of the cut-out, going TOWARD the opposite side of the cut-out. Now from THAT arrangement, if you slide the bottom board from under the upper board, and DON'T flip either board, then lay what had been the bottom board atop the other board, the 'V' vertex of all four sides will point AWAY from the opposite side of the cut-out. I didn't see clearly which way you had the boards attached to one another, when you did the lead pour. And another point here, at 23:10 I was surprised that molten lead could be poured into a marine plywood sided mold, (with a steel plate base) without starting a FIRE!!! Really, Really Surprised! As you were about to pour, I was expecting you to need to use the fire extinguisher in the now burning centerboard!!! But I was HAPPY TO SEE that my fear was baseless!!! WOW!!!
The 2 centerboard sides have the deepest part of the V to the inside. I think you can see it at 14:50. The boards don't catch on fire because fire needs oxygen to ignite. The lead seals off the air before it gets to a flash point. Fun huh! In episode 15 "Casting Lead Ballast Keel" I pour almost 700 LBS of lead in a wooden mold.
Thanks for watching and your great question! Cheers!
I'd suggest looking into some hollow ground screwdriver bits - they are often sold as gunsmithing bits. The hollow grind allows full bearing of the bit against the slot in the screw, which greatly reduces the chances of marring the head of the screw. The common screwdrivers are more like mini pry bars, and have a tapered tip when viewed on the cross section. This results in only the top of the slot being in contact with the screwdriver, and leads to damage that could have been avoided with the hollow ground bits.
Outstanding job on the centerboard and trunk. Just wondering why you did not wrap the centerboard in fiberglass as the plywood is exposed to the water and any dings in the paint may allow seepage. You lead pour went so smooth compared to several ones I have seen that turned out bad. Bullets and car tire weights are great sources for lead, Check out any old buildings being tour down for lead flashing around vent pipes and such. Looking forward to your next video.
Just recently stumbled upon your channel, and subscribed. Very good work, and you're doing a terrific job of documenting it. Really looking forward to following along as your project progresses. During the past Winter I designed a 13 1/2' sailing dinghy that I'm intending to start work on this Summer (which I'll be documenting on my channel). Watching your channel is giving me lots of motivation to get started.
Your videos are thoughtful and very educational. I have a question regarding the centerboard trunk and centerboard. Do the plans call for a bushing on the trunk to pivot pin connection for the centerboard and how do you keep that part watertight?
Yes, the plans do call for a bushing. It doesn't need to be watertight as the pivot point is through the ballast keel which is underwater.
I bought the book on building the haven. I'm wondering if you did also.
I have a background in art and learn visually. The book is confusing. It helps watching you work it through.
Hi Gregory,
Yes, I have that book. It's not very good as in instruction manual for building the Haven. It leave a lot of information out and the brief descriptions are just that brief! I believe it was published in the late 1980's so the illustrations are of very pour quality. I, like you, get most of my information visually so the lack of quality images is a big minus.
The main book I've used is Greg Rössel's book "Building Small Boat" as my main reference. Here is a link:
www.woodenboatstore.com/products/building-small-boats?variant=16904410857562¤cy=USD&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpc7648Kd6wIV0cDACh2RuQJ8EAQYASABEgIdlvD_BwE
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks, I've been reviewing your videos and have gotten that book. Thanks again.
thanks for showing good work. Just a question : would it be nice to have a bronze bushing at the pivot point of the ruder, instead a bronze bult -wood hole set-up?
Bruno Wiebelt the plans call for a bronze rod. A bronze bushing in the centerboard is a good idea. Thanks.
Nice job on the centreboard assembly. I wondered if a couple of dowels would help align the centreboard plates when gluing, but it didn't seem necessary. The lead pour went well too. I did see a vid where someone was recovering lead from ranges and a couple of un discharged rounds went off during the smelt
Dale Skidmore Thank, right cutting the two half’s as one made it easy to align. Small discrepancy were cleaned up with sanding the edges.
Thanks for the ammunition heads up. I’ve been sifting through beforehand I will now keep a keener eye for any.
Very professional. What keeps the molten lead from burning or catching the board on fire? Little smoke and no charring!
Michael Tavary the wood in contact with the lead can’t get enough oxygen to burn.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks, I had also anticipated much more charring, but I guess the melting point is also pretty low and cools quickly when it touches the wood.
Hi mate, I’m from Australia, Queensland and I am very interested in learning about wooden boat construction . Especially the one that you are doing in this video. I have a lot of experience with making solid timber furniture but I wouldn’t like to try to float the type of furniture I made .
I am now semi retired and still have most of my tools in the shed . I would like to build one of those you are doing now.
Do you sell the plans for them? Thanks heaps for sharing your valuable knowledge with us. Sincerely, Graeme.
Hi Graeme, The Haven is a very enjoyable boat to build. With your furniture back ground you should be well equipped to build one. The plans are sold by the Wooden Boat Store which is in Brooklin, Maine, where Joel White designed the boat.
www.woodenboatstore.com/products/16-haven-12-1-2-class?variant=16904448573530
Cheers Mate!
Bob where did you source your marine grade plywood?
I got mine from my local yard (RP Lumber)
Recently one of my online boat builders suggested
Homestead Hardwoods
6910 County Road 249
Vickery, Ohio 43464
www.marine-plywood.us/
Hope that helps.
Parabéns, acompanho o seu trabalho e sou muito admirado e feliz com sua dedicação em explicar cada detalhe. Excelente vídeo, lindo veleiro. Estou ansioso para o próximo.
Marcos Roberto Juppa, Gracias!
Does the cartridge on the respirator filter out dangerous lead fumes? I remember reading lots of debates about this, and I don't recall that there was a consensus. I concluded that I'd never make a boat that required melting lead. (An alternative approach is to take lead pellets and encase them in epoxy.) Also, sanding lead puts lead dust all over the place. The filter on the respirator keeps you from breathing the dust during the sanding, but I wonder if one needs an air cleaner as well since the dust can remain in the air. And then there's dust all over the surfaces, etc. Lead scares me.
also great to use inside centreboard trunk is red lead mixed with linseed oil to create a red lead paint. great to keep away bugs and growth.
Why didn't you glass the center board? Is it not necessary?
Correct it is not necessary.
This is wonderful!
Why didn't you wet out the wood before putting down the cloth?
Awesome channel! I am just missing general safety measures. Working with epoxy without a mask seems not very reasonable to me...
West Systems (epoxy)recommends a minimum for most epoxy users is gloves, eye protection, and protective clothing. Working with epoxy should be done in well ventilated spaces. If is a small space, such as a boat cabin, with little ventilation a respirator should be worn. The approved respiratory protection against epoxy dust, wood dust, and nuisance dust is a dust/mist mask with an N95 rating or respirator.
My large studio with 25" ceiling is well ventilated. Most of the time I do wear a mask or respirator. I do remove it during video shoots as it almost impossible to pick up and audio.
Thanks for your question and watching!
Cheers,
Bob
I really like the quality and detailed content of your posts. I have just flipped over the planked hull of a Leadlight 14. Your first boat reminds me of my project quite a bit. My next boat will be A H12 1/2 or a variant. So I am very interested in your Haven 12 1/2. My question is why didn’t you glass the center board as you did the inside faces of the center board trunk for wear? Keep up the great work on the videos.
Joe Cerami thanks, I did epoxy the centerboard so I feel comfortable with its durability. Also the centerboard can be removed if repair is needed, unlike the centerboard trunk. Exciting times with your Leadlight.
That makes sense. I didn’t know the center board could be removed for refinishing. Thanks.
Bob, Just found your channel it's great. Why not put unthickened epoxy on your board trunk pieces and the center board prices before applying the thickened epoxy? Wouldn't that give better adhesion? Keep up the great video's.
Thanks for the question. There isn't an advantage to using thickened epoxy first. A second coat needs to be applied before the first coat cures. If the first coat does cure the second coat will not adhere with out sanding. Glad your enjoying the videos.
Hope you kept that copper too. That's stuff more valuable than the lead.
I really appreciate your videos, very informative and easy to follow. I do have a question though, why didn't you fiberglass the centerboard?
I did epoxy the centerboard. Fiberglass is a reinforcement for the epoxy. The thickness of the centerboard, 1" and the wood fibers are more than enough. The centerboard is removeable if it ever needed repair. I only use glass cloth where I could not ever get to it. Thanks Pierre, I'm glad you are enjoying the videos.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding I understand your point, I'm just stating that, from my point of view, since the centerboard is the lowest part, it is more likely to hit the bottom. So vinylester combined with epoxy resin is a very strong protection against abrasion. Keep up the good work, cant wait for your next video
I enjoy your videos very much, you inspire me to build my own boat, because of space might not be able to do it right now, but I would like to ask you, what software do you recommend to make the designs and at list have them print in a 3D printer until I get the chance to make it in full scale?
Thank you for your videos keep posting them, you are great!!
Sorry, 3D software is not in my wheel house. I still prefer to draw with paper and pencil.
Thanks so much of your watching, support, and kind comments.
Blender is an open source 3d modeling program that works amazingly well once you learn it
So, from someone who doesn't know much about boats;
Does the center board act as a belly/hull/keel fin? Is this an item that gets drawn into the boat for shallow waters, and dropped for deeper waters for stability? I'm trying to piece this together in my mind so I can understand the theory behind this piece you just built and why it has a pivot point.
Thanks.
Thomas Russell yes, the center trunk houses the center board. The center board does retract into the trunk and is let down when sailing. That’s the reason for the lead weight, so it will stay down.
could you use ash instead of oak for bed logs
Ash isn't so resistant to rot as white oak.
Maybe this has been said
Noticed you used same putty knive in two part fairing compound
Co-mingling surely reduces shelf life of your compound
Btw
Great content
awesome just awesome
why newspaper between lamination,?helps the oak to bond better?
Not sure what you're referring to. No newspaper was harmed in this video.
diff show I guess,lol,but someone used newsprint between layers,
Are you using wax for your screws? It really makes driving them in easy. I've found that mixing bees wax with paint thinner gets it to a nice stable consistency. Just discovered your channel, keep up the good work!
I use a bar of soap. I have used wax as well seems like I away have soap around.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding L. F. Herreshoff recommends oil, arguing that it helps to preserve the wood.
Hey Bob, Arnaud here. We're building a Haven 12 1/2 with my brother. We're ahead of you to this day, since we just finished planking the hull during the Easter holiday. Are you really going to cast the lead keel ballast? We were thinking of having it done, instead. Shooting ranges are not that common in France, so sourcing 300 kg lead might be tricky. I guess you're following Maynard Bray's book for building this boat, so casting the keel won't be before a few months, but, how will you proceed?
Thanks for your reply, and for making these awesome videos. I subscribed on first view!
Hi Arnaud, Yes, I am going to cast the ballast keel myself. As you know it isn't needed for some time in the build. However, I plan on casting it yet this summer so I can get it done before inclement weather. Not following Maynard's book, I found it lacking in allot of information. If I had to pick one book (have about 5 I refer too.)is "Building Small Boats" By Greg Rössel.(link in bio)
Reclaimed lead is a challenge. One source I have heard others doing is to find an old sailboat that is not sea worthy. Many time the boat is free if you dispose of it. Casting metal is not hard but can be a mystery if not having done any. After 40+ years as a sculptor casting a low melting point metal just sounds like fun!
Best of luck with your build. Stay in touch I'll be interest is how it's going.
Thanks for the reply! I did cast a small elf figure once, in my D&D years. Can't be much different, but for the scale! :) I'm starting a 1:10 scale model of the boat; I thought it might help troubleshooting on the real thing. I almost finished resizing the plans in Rhino. It occured to me that, on the centerboard trunk, it might be convenient to draw a line, or screw a batten now, that would help locate the height of the floor beams. Can't see how you can draw them once the hull is closed. What do you think?
better to extend the interior glass over the bed log seams. that way not just relying on seam compound to keep the water out
Ya that was my thought as well. or maybe fiberglass with cloth once you have assembled the whole trunk Many different approaches. It does look like you know what you are doing.
You not only are doing a great job on the boat but in addition your style of doing your video's suits me well. To much talk for me is a distraction. Most you tubers talk down to there audience and that drives me crazy. Oh, I have spent many years in Mystic and some at the seaport, I saw you at the boat show. You did well. Justsayin RC
I apologize for stopping your video to go look up the cost of a gallon of bottom paint a few minutes before you mentioned the cost. The last time I bought it, I was rolling it on at $200+ a gallon and then paying a diver to rub it off for a smooth bottom to race with. Who said boats make financial sense?
5200 ........I love that stuff! Better than Fluffanutter.........I put it on my sandwiches! DD
What stops moisture from entering the hole that you drilled in the in the centerboard at the pivot point and rotting the plywood?
Hi David,
Can hardly believe it's been almost 2 year since I made the centerboard. My plan is to epoxy a bronze bearing in the hole with a bronze through bolt.
Thanks for your question and watching.
Cheers,
Bob