E Tank Instructions - How To Build & Use An Electrolysis Tank For Rust Removal
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- Опубликовано: 29 окт 2024
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Please make sure you have a properly ventilated space to work with and that you take all of the necessary precautions. Anytime you're working with electricity and water you need to be absolutely certain that you're working safely.
Let’s say you have a rusty tool or part you want to paint or refinish. While you certainly could sand, brush or even sand-blast the rust off of metal, that process can be quite labor intensive or it may damage piece you’re working on. This is where an E-tank comes in super handy.
An E-tank uses electrolysis as a process to remove rust from steel or cast iron. When an E-tank is properly setup it will literally pull the rust from your part. You just have to plug it in and let the system do the work for you.
Building an E-tank is a fairly simple think to do.
You’ll need the following items:
Container
larger than the piece you’re working on
Non-conductive-plastic
Sheet/s of steel
Not Stainless or galvanized
Plain steel
I’ve seen a number of people use rebar
Wood board
2x3 for example
Long enough to span the container
Strong enough to support the piece
Car battery charger
Standard charger not with a time limit
I use 10amps but 6amps would work just fine
Super soda wash
Sodium Carbonate
1-tbls / gallon
Volume formula (inches)
Length x width x height = cubic inches
Cubic inches ÷ 231 = number of gallons
Metal rod
Long enough to span half of the container
An eye bolt
long enough to go through the wood board and rod
metal wire
think enough to handle and shape
Clamps
metal
Additional items may include:
Screws
Drill
Screwdriver
pliers
There are alway little things you may want to use in your design so just know that there can be a bit of flexibility to meet your particular needs.
Exemplary tutorial. This video really deserves more appreciation!
One of the best explanations I've seen with easy to follow step-by-step instructions. Thanx.
Nice video, great info.
This is a great video. It is only as good as the man who presented it. The end product reflects his efforts, Great.
Wow, thank you!
Excellent presentation.
What is the black residue on the de-rusted piece? Is it black rust, and does it provide any protection?
Instead of using a battery charger would it be possible to use an old AC adapter that went to an old laptop?
GWP323 sent me your way. tHanks to you both for an interesting video!
Have a peaceful and pleasant Memorial Day
Great video. I love the thermal image
Thank you!
How about that large slant logo Griswold!! Wow!
Great job on developing the video! 🙌🏽
Thank you!! 😁
Very interesting! Nice to see the videographer too. 😊 Great explanation. This looks easier to do than I had thought. Great way to remove rust. Thanks for the video!
Glad it was helpful!
I’d like more details about the materials used for eye hooks, suspension wire, and metal plates. IE: best materials, worst materials to use. Could I use copper plates in the tank instead of steel?
Google it man
I have been only having limited success with mine, but realize that maybe I don't have enough surface area for my "sacrificial rod" so I'm going to try steel sheets on both sides next time. Nice to see this video.
Yes, the surface area is critical. You can pause the process and clean your rods or sheets if they get completely covered in rust. Try Sheets of steel. That should really help.
@@irestorationstudio7223 Do you find a particular gauge steel sheet preferable or will any work as well?
Not really. any thickness will do.
@@irestorationstudio7223 - Worked great with two steel plates. Much better than the rebar I was using. I'm not sure why I never thought of doing such. Much faster, easier to clean, ... so I am glad I saw your video. And a quick note, I was out of copper wire to create a line to attach the two alligator clips to the two steel plates. A reel of copper wire costs a fortune these days. 99 Cent store sells 15 foot extension cords for $1.98. Which is really two cooper wires. So 30 feet for $1.98. Gauge was fine.
@@digital_deco_art Oh sure, that's a good point on the copper wire. If you're clever there can often be nice solutions like that. I also will pause the etank process in the middle at times and quickly clean the plates. Keeping a good surface really helps.
Great video! Where did you locate the box/container used for the lathe base? I would really love to find one of those for myself.
Thank you so much for the kind words. Here is the link to the container: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTRZP46/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
What chemical did you use to restore after this process? So it doesn’t rust again
Does it matter what the eye bolt is made of zinc platted, steal stainless, etc?
Where did you get that long container?
Do you do with the leftover rusty water
Flush it, dump it in your grass, smoke it...
Wrong! You cannot use a "standard" battery charger. Most, if not all, battery chargers sold today are automatic shut off, and WILL NOT work. It must be a manual charger which can be difficult to find. Go online, and search for used chargers for sale. Also there is a lot of new steel used in this build which can be expensive. The top bar is completely unnecessary. Just clamp the negative directly to the eye bolt holding the piece being worked on. The sacrificial anodes do not have to be plate steel. They can be made from any used or scrap steel, placed in the four corners of the tank. Used lawn mower blades, or rebar for instance work great.
Ffs dude. Who taught you to start off a sentence with "wrong". No matter what you day after that you are just going to sound like a dick with no social skills.