It's nice to see someone of your generation take an interest in this old technology. The 220F was always my favorite lantern. Maybe you should use your skills and start a side hustle. I've been collecting Coleman lanterns and products for years. Be careful this type of hobby can become addicting. Nice video 👍 Keep em burning 🔥
I sometimes also have kind of ''air'' leaks when pumping, and when I stop and listen, there's that strange goose cluck like sound coming from just behind me. And you're right about it son: It's bad! 🙄 wish I could locate the culprit seal before I set the house on fire... Thank you so much for all the time and efforts you put into this very clear and useful tuto ! You really did a GREAT job!
For a user without a box. Most of these models will accept a metal coffee can PERFECTLY. Cut off the bottom with a can opener. Make two long slits for the bailer handle (about an inch shy from the top). Take off the roof. Slip the can over the globe frame, reinstall the roof. Hang her in your shed or sit on your shelf. Unlikely to accidentally crack the glass with a shovel handle or bumbing about. Great warnings: A leak at the regulator knob is one of the most dangerous elements of this lamp. If it is leaking shut it off immediately or you'll eventually have a flare up outside the lamp, eventually finding the somewhat sealed pressurized reservoir ...BOOM. Good description of fixing the valve and graphite ring (seal gasket). I've seen ones where the bonnet cap is loose, and then even a good graphite will leak once pressured. For that, I tighten a bit and check again, just like I would with a virgin graphite seal. With the alternatives we have today, I consider these outside toys only. Nothing near them that can burn if there is a fuel leak. Not in reach if any children or adults that don't know what this really is.
I’d like to see a vid or pictures of that box you talk about. In my mind the way you explain it wouldn’t it block all the light output ? Thanks for sharing your ideas.
Thanks for sharing. Here in Ireland and UK the pressurised lanterns are mainly made by Tilley or Bialaddin of which I have several. The Coleman are much less common and have a bewildering number of models and fuel types used, because of this I’ve stayed away from them. Recently however I got a Coleman 639 kerosene lantern, in perfect condition, still in box, with instructions, spanner and even a warranty. However, seeing as the lantern is dated 1973 that may not still be valid ! Keep em lit.
I just got our model 220F going for the winter season. cleaned the generator, leak checked inspected everything. Replaced and primed the mantles. Quick easy job. Though maybe it helps that this one has been used by me since it was new.
Slotted screwdriver for a slotted screw. Flat head screws are usually countersunk but they take a slotted screw as well unless they're Phillips or Torx or Clutch Head. Flat head screwdriver-
good video, just wondering why you didnt take the valve out of the tank since you had it broken down that far, i rebuilt one of these lanterns and glad i pulled the valve out of the tank, the pick up tube that pulls gas out is on the bottom of that valve and it was all varnished up and the hole was plugged up,the sliding needle was froze up too....
So for me it just comes down to if it works, I usually leave it. Unless you have the removal tool it's really easy to damage that part. It's kinda like opening a can of worms if it doesn't go your way. So unless I'm specifically having an issue with it, I leave it.
Excellent video and very informative. Thanks for taking the time to record it. I have a question about converting this same lantern (1970-220) and 1969-228F models) to burn kerosene. Do you know what parts I need and part numbers if possible. Thank you.
Honestly I do not have much experience with Kero lanterns. To have the safest burning kero lantern I would just keep an eye out for a Coleman Kero specific lantern. They aren't super common but they are out there.
I'm doing exactly that. Another person @Ron Brown has a video and an inexpensive, well-written chapter on Amazon. The parts are readily available, and all the good tips here are relevant.
@@crookedlantern3810 I ended up converting it to kerosene and it was pretty simple. I read "Ron Brown Book 6: Kerosene pressure lanterns (Non electric lighting series Book 6." You will have to use and convert the 201b5891 generator because you cannot buy the 201a5891. It isn't made anymore. Its pretty easy just purchase the book for instructions. Hope this helps. It works great and burns a little brighter than my white gas burner.
So we have talked before I watched your video last night I have a quick question what is the best way to remove the soot from the top of the inside the lantern dome also I just purchased a 200 a and in OK condition but the bottom of the cage has a crusted rust kind of a Sandy texture what's the best way to remove that
Well if your talking about the porcelain vent on top, it can be hard to remove that. You can try to soak it in some soap and water. As for the frame, (steel part) some light steel wool should do the trick depending on if it s rusted.
maybe you can help. I'm trying to restore my dad's Coleman, same model as this. I cleaned it like you did. it holds pressure very well. it pumps great. however, I can't get it to light. I don't hear anything when I attempted to light it either. I remember a hiss from my childhood if I'm remembering right. any suggestions on how I could get it running again? it looks great. no real rust. all fittings came loose easy. it worked last time it was used but that was 20 years ago. I am trying to save something from my childhood and older things are just better somehow. I'd love to see this fire up again. I just don't know what's wrong or if it's even salvageable. thanks in advance.
Sounds like something with the generator. On the backside of the lantern there is a small lever that spins and clears the generator hole. Spin that about 10 times. Then pressurize the lantern open the valve 1/4 turn. If you don't hear anything spin that level 180 degrees. It will point down iirc. If this doesn't work you likely need a new generator.
@@crookedlantern3810 I cleaned the generator by hand while it was out and apart. I also turned the knob when it was back together. I was thinking you might say that. I wonder if I soaked it in carb cleaner if it would help. It looks good that's what stumps me.
@@crookedlantern3810 I woke up at camp. Got your message and payed extra attention to the cleaning lever and generator. After about 50 turns I started to hear some sputter. Now after a few more she is running at her former glory! Thank you so much.
Sorry for the late reply. The tip cleaner orientation can be tricky once removed. You have to align it just right with the eccentric block. It can be tricky but take a close look at both parts in your hand, you will see how the rotation of the tip cleaner and the gap in the eccentric block align.
My 220F has a filler cap with a screw in the center. Once I take the screw out and unscrew the cap, there is a brass plug, threaded on the outside to accept the cap, and threaded in the center to accept the screw. The problem is, it blocks the fount from being filled and I can’t get it out of the fount. Any advice?
Sorry for the late reply. It sounds to me as if the inner portion of the 2 peice cap is stuck on the top of the filler hole. If this is the case I would GENTLT tap around the brass portion with a small hammer or mallet. And add some pressure to the tank via the pump to give it some extra encouragement. The only thing that could be holding that on is a corroded rubber gasket.
@@crookedlantern3810 I’ll try the tapping method, as my pump is shot, this lantern has sat for a long time in a basement. Thank you for the advice, have a good one
@@dougvoughn2686 I'm not sure if you can over RUclips. If it's silver, with no indication that it was painted. It's probably Nickle. Is it coleman brand?
Hey Good Video was a big help rebuilding my 220F that I picked up for 8.00 bucks. My question is where did you get that special bent and thin open end wrench ? Did you make it yourself ? You're changing of the graphite packing was especially helpful . On the tip cleaner for the generator can the packing that is int be replaced if it starts leaking ? Also your recommendation for parts were a big help .
It would be a great deal of work to completely restore the fount. Typically a bit of surface rust is nothing to worry about. It's always important to gauge the exact amount of rust to ensure there are no fuel leaks, otherwise the fuel itself can inhibit rust forming. The founts that rust the most are stored without fuel.
In terms of value, not really, in terms of usage absolutely. Especially considering the pumps are extremely easy to repair. I touch on the subject in one of my videos, however there are many out there specific to the pump repair.
I'm rebuilding/refurbishing a 1966 Coleman 220F that I bought at an estate sale for $8. I'm glad I found your video, great breakdown and instruction.
I'm glad you found it useful!
It's nice to see someone of your generation take an interest in this old technology. The 220F was always my favorite lantern. Maybe you should use your skills and start a side hustle. I've been collecting Coleman lanterns and products for years. Be careful this type of hobby can become addicting. Nice video 👍 Keep em burning 🔥
Thanks! I've got quite the collection so far.
JUST STARTED DIGGING OUT an OLD COLMAN LANTERN, iT IS MARKED 220f THE SUNRISE IS ON THE SIDE AND A DATE IS ON THE BOTTOM, 10-61. CAN THIS BE TRUE??
I sometimes also have kind of ''air'' leaks when pumping, and when I stop and listen, there's that strange goose cluck like sound coming from just behind me. And you're right about it son: It's bad! 🙄 wish I could locate the culprit seal before I set the house on fire...
Thank you so much for all the time and efforts you put into this very clear and useful tuto ! You really did a GREAT job!
Thanks. I hope you found some of the information helpful.
@@crookedlantern3810 Yes, absolutely ! First class explanations. Thanks to you I went into the complete rebuild of mine. Thank you !
For a user without a box. Most of these models will accept a metal coffee can PERFECTLY. Cut off the bottom with a can opener. Make two long slits for the bailer handle (about an inch shy from the top). Take off the roof. Slip the can over the globe frame, reinstall the roof. Hang her in your shed or sit on your shelf. Unlikely to accidentally crack the glass with a shovel handle or bumbing about.
Great warnings:
A leak at the regulator knob is one of the most dangerous elements of this lamp. If it is leaking shut it off immediately or you'll eventually have a flare up outside the lamp, eventually finding the somewhat sealed pressurized reservoir ...BOOM.
Good description of fixing the valve and graphite ring (seal gasket). I've seen ones where the bonnet cap is loose, and then even a good graphite will leak once pressured. For that, I tighten a bit and check again, just like I would with a virgin graphite seal.
With the alternatives we have today, I consider these outside toys only. Nothing near them that can burn if there is a fuel leak. Not in reach if any children or adults that don't know what this really is.
I’d like to see a vid or pictures of that box you talk about. In my mind the way you explain it wouldn’t it block all the light output ? Thanks for sharing your ideas.
Thanks for sharing. Here in Ireland and UK the pressurised lanterns are mainly made by Tilley or Bialaddin of which I have several. The Coleman are much less common and have a bewildering number of models and fuel types used, because of this I’ve stayed away from them. Recently however I got a Coleman 639 kerosene lantern, in perfect condition, still in box, with instructions, spanner and even a warranty. However, seeing as the lantern is dated 1973 that may not still be valid ! Keep em lit.
I just got our model 220F going for the winter season. cleaned the generator, leak checked inspected everything. Replaced and primed the mantles.
Quick easy job. Though maybe it helps that this one has been used by me since it was new.
Just got a 1962... has flint striker built in and a parts safe on bottom. $2 at a yardsale.gotta rebuild it
im rebuilding one now i could not find much on the 220f thank you .
I'm glad it was helpful.
Slotted screwdriver for a slotted screw. Flat head screws are usually countersunk but they take a slotted screw as well unless they're Phillips or Torx or Clutch Head. Flat head screwdriver-
Nice job on this, very informative, very helpful !!
good video, just wondering why you didnt take the valve out of the tank since you had it broken down that far, i rebuilt one of these lanterns and glad i pulled the valve out of the tank, the pick up tube that pulls gas out is on the bottom of that valve and it was all varnished up and the hole was plugged up,the sliding needle was froze up too....
So for me it just comes down to if it works, I usually leave it. Unless you have the removal tool it's really easy to damage that part. It's kinda like opening a can of worms if it doesn't go your way. So unless I'm specifically having an issue with it, I leave it.
Excellent video and very informative. Thanks for taking the time to record it.
I have a question about converting this same lantern (1970-220) and 1969-228F models) to burn kerosene. Do you know what parts I need and part numbers if possible. Thank you.
Honestly I do not have much experience with Kero lanterns. To have the safest burning kero lantern I would just keep an eye out for a Coleman Kero specific lantern. They aren't super common but they are out there.
I'm doing exactly that. Another person @Ron Brown has a video and an inexpensive, well-written chapter on Amazon. The parts are readily available, and all the good tips here are relevant.
@@crookedlantern3810 I ended up converting it to kerosene and it was pretty simple. I read "Ron Brown Book 6: Kerosene pressure lanterns (Non electric lighting series Book 6." You will have to use and convert the 201b5891 generator because you cannot buy the 201a5891. It isn't made anymore. Its pretty easy just purchase the book for instructions. Hope this helps.
It works great and burns a little brighter than my white gas burner.
So we have talked before I watched your video last night I have a quick question what is the best way to remove the soot from the top of the inside the lantern dome also I just purchased a 200 a and in OK condition but the bottom of the cage has a crusted rust kind of a Sandy texture what's the best way to remove that
Well if your talking about the porcelain vent on top, it can be hard to remove that. You can try to soak it in some soap and water. As for the frame, (steel part) some light steel wool should do the trick depending on if it s rusted.
How can you tell what year it is? I have two that I'm about to restore. What are these things worth in good condition?
Where did you get the graphite?
Never mind...wrote comment too soon lol
maybe you can help. I'm trying to restore my dad's Coleman, same model as this. I cleaned it like you did. it holds pressure very well. it pumps great. however, I can't get it to light. I don't hear anything when I attempted to light it either. I remember a hiss from my childhood if I'm remembering right. any suggestions on how I could get it running again? it looks great. no real rust. all fittings came loose easy. it worked last time it was used but that was 20 years ago. I am trying to save something from my childhood and older things are just better somehow. I'd love to see this fire up again. I just don't know what's wrong or if it's even salvageable. thanks in advance.
Sounds like something with the generator. On the backside of the lantern there is a small lever that spins and clears the generator hole. Spin that about 10 times. Then pressurize the lantern open the valve 1/4 turn. If you don't hear anything spin that level 180 degrees. It will point down iirc. If this doesn't work you likely need a new generator.
@@crookedlantern3810 I cleaned the generator by hand while it was out and apart. I also turned the knob when it was back together. I was thinking you might say that. I wonder if I soaked it in carb cleaner if it would help. It looks good that's what stumps me.
@@crookedlantern3810 I woke up at camp. Got your message and payed extra attention to the cleaning lever and generator. After about 50 turns I started to hear some sputter. Now after a few more she is running at her former glory! Thank you so much.
@@robertholsopple9451 wow that's great, I wonder why it took so many? I'm glad you got her running!
I took the tip cleaner out and put it back in. Now it will not turn all the way around. Only goes 1/2 a revolution but moves the cam. Any suggestions?
Sorry for the late reply. The tip cleaner orientation can be tricky once removed. You have to align it just right with the eccentric block. It can be tricky but take a close look at both parts in your hand, you will see how the rotation of the tip cleaner and the gap in the eccentric block align.
I had the same issue as I am also new to this. Thanks man, it’s an odd fascination I’m developing with old Coleman lanterns. I now have 3 lol.
@@ethanchaperlo9876 they can be addicting.
@@ethanchaperlo9876 I ended up sending mine to Coleman for repair. I fixed my old stove but couldn't get the lantern/
My 220F has a filler cap with a screw in the center. Once I take the screw out and unscrew the cap, there is a brass plug, threaded on the outside to accept the cap, and threaded in the center to accept the screw. The problem is, it blocks the fount from being filled and I can’t get it out of the fount. Any advice?
Sorry for the late reply. It sounds to me as if the inner portion of the 2 peice cap is stuck on the top of the filler hole. If this is the case I would GENTLT tap around the brass portion with a small hammer or mallet. And add some pressure to the tank via the pump to give it some extra encouragement. The only thing that could be holding that on is a corroded rubber gasket.
@@crookedlantern3810 I’ll try the tapping method, as my pump is shot, this lantern has sat for a long time in a basement. Thank you for the advice, have a good one
How can I send you pictures of a 1973 U3US army single mantle later that I'm trying to determine if the tank is nickel or not
Sorry 1972 army
@@dougvoughn2686 I'm not sure if you can over RUclips. If it's silver, with no indication that it was painted. It's probably Nickle. Is it coleman brand?
Hey Good Video was a big help rebuilding my 220F that I picked up for 8.00 bucks. My question is where did you get that special bent and thin open end wrench ? Did you make it yourself ? You're changing of the graphite packing was especially helpful . On the tip cleaner for the generator can the packing that is int be replaced if it starts leaking ? Also your recommendation for parts were a big help .
Nice video. Where did you find new graphite valve stem packing?
Old Coleman Parts . Com, just Google that you should find the site.
Thank you for the reply. Stay safe and healthy.
Any tips on buying one from facebook
Check for rust holes, dents, and general wear. Most can be rebuilt.
I am curious, that you left the tank rusted. Why ?
It would be a great deal of work to completely restore the fount. Typically a bit of surface rust is nothing to worry about. It's always important to gauge the exact amount of rust to ensure there are no fuel leaks, otherwise the fuel itself can inhibit rust forming. The founts that rust the most are stored without fuel.
I have a 73 220f the pump won't work right on it are these worth restoring
In terms of value, not really, in terms of usage absolutely. Especially considering the pumps are extremely easy to repair. I touch on the subject in one of my videos, however there are many out there specific to the pump repair.
Dude!! Use a small crescent!!
You should never ever light a lantern without mantles
Why?
Yeah @ Don Kibbler, why ?...Ive done it hundreds of times, it keeps you from wasting mantles