🔧🔧🔧 1/2" Kobalt Brushless Drill Teardown! | 24V MAX | (KDD-524B-03)
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Here's a look inside Kobalt's 24V 1/2" cordless drill, model KDD-524B-03. Thanks for watching!
After owning this tool for a few years, my only real complaint is that it's pretty noisy - it's got a high-pitched sound that's annoyingly loud. Not bad enough to hurt your ears, but it's very noticeable.
Note: this voids the warranty!
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Mind blown 🤯 highly intelligent individual here i just learned alot about my bunk busted drill think i can fix it now possibly 😎 gracias senior
Impressive knowledge! Great attention to detail. Excellent video!!!! Thank you so much!
this was perfect executed video explanation, clear, concise but had all the information to know what is going on in there. I am using this info to modify this drill to power my kids power wheel
Thank you for the tear down you helped me fix my drill 😅
I you could tear down the Kobalt rotary hammer I'd be super interested! I feel there is a big design flaw with the air intake being in the front of the tool!
excellent presentation the only missing detail is the chuck assy i have a drill that the complete chuck assy came out and im wondering on how to assy with taking it the complete head assy apart
Really appreciate your video! Nicely detailed, however the detail I am interested in is whether the brushless motor is sensored or sensorless. Thanks again though anyways!
Hi..I also am in need of a replacement reverse threaded screw to keep chuck on. Have had no luck searching the web. Thanks
Looking forward to the impact driver tear down would love to see the 1/2 compact also
What about removing the chuck? Is it left had or right hand thread?
The newest revision of this drill they removed the metal silver housing to a black plastic, but still a very good drill, I have alot of the product line and am very happy with.
It’s like a solar system in there with suns planetarys rings etc
Thanks, what cooling do they have on the MOSFETs?
Didn you make the impact driver video?
Great presentation. I'm wondering how the brake works when the trigger is released. Mine has a loud clicking sound at speed 2 (speed 1 is nice and soft) wondering if that's something I can fix myself.
What are the blue, yellow, and peach looking wires? I can't find a diagram on the drill.
There's a reverse-threaded screw that holds the keyless chuck on. Mine broke in half. Do you have any idea where I can get a replacement? I doubt my local hardware store will have a reverse-threaded replacement.
What's the size and thread pitch of the chuck screw?
Pretty sure you can't remove all the screws with that T14 Torx Security bit. The screw closet to the bottom and front of the drill is deeper than the bit. Did you use a different tool or is your drill different?
Recommended grease for the planetary gears?
Is there information on the manufacturer of the motor speed controller?
Thanks
What size is the screw that secures the chuck?
how do I get the screwdriver bit out? It's stuck in drill. WD40 not helping either. HELP!!
Mine got rained on now it doesn't work. What might be the problem?
If it fell in water what would I be replacing??
My drill is malfunctioning its the led on the drill that blinks. I can pull the trigger and itll run the first time but once you release the trigger the light starts blinking and you have to remove the battery and put the battery back on and itll run again on that initial trigger pull.
I believe what’s happening is that the brake isn’t engaging when you let me know go of the trigger and the controller system is detecting it and flashing the light to indicate an error.
What’s the fix? I don’t know!
Le encontró alguna solución a su problema? me pasa lo mismo con mi taladro y es nuevo
@@TheRealElbadooSame thing happened to mine, and I cannot figure it out. Annoying to have to remove the battery every time I need to use it on a second, third, ninth screw.
I posted about this a while back and have since found a workaround that avoids having to remove and replace the battery. This is a temporary fix, and I'll eventually get around to disassembling my drill to see if I can fix it for real.
I noticed that the flashing light error was often preceded by the drill coasting to a stop instead of doing a hard halt. My theory is that there could be contacts in the trigger mechanism that tell the controller you've let go of the trigger and that it's time to engage the brakes - probably by disconnecting the power and then shorting the motor contacts together to cause inductive braking. My guess here is that the "time to stop now" contacts aren't engaging and the controller is detecting that the drill is still moving when it shouldn't be and then turning on the flashing lights to show there's a problem.
My workaround? When you get the flashing light, give the trigger a pull and then let it snap off your finger so it "pops" back into its released position. On my drill that appears to engage the afore-mentioned theoretical time-to-stop contacts, which makes the controller happy so it clears the error state. The light stops blinking and I am able to use the drill again - without disconnecting the battery!
Give this a try and see if it works for you, but be aware that this is probably mechanically hard on the switch mechanism, so don't take this to be a permanent fix. If this is successful, then I think we have a lead on where the problem lies. If we're lucky, it might only take a shot of WD-40 or other contact cleaner into the switch internals to stop this from happening.
@@timadams7274 See my reply to the top-level post. Maybe that'll help!
neat
OK, but is it any good?
Not great, not terrible.
What glue do you recommend to glue back the black grip onto the blue body? Thanks.
E-6000 adhesive
We're you able to figure out specs on the motor?
I'm thinking that when they can control the torque of the brushless motor electrically , why they use those more complex mechanical gears and such :/
probably cost, the engineering design and parts needed to control the torque electronically could be much more expensive than the mechanical versions. Also, the electric motor needs to have more expensive design to last long enough in this situation.
Rc is one of my hobbies. The esc, (electronic speed controller) is just to achieve variable speed. The torque is a byproduct thats unique to the motor. The motor diameter, kv rating and whether it is a sensorless or sensored motor can effect the torque of brushless motors greatly. In other words its along for the ride. The way to manage that torque is mechanically. The principle is the same with rc. Gearing up or down is how we manage torque and speed. Basically, the motor is gonna do what it does. We need to manipulate it to do what we want it to, mechanically.
the problem with Kobalt you cant buy any replacement part to fix your tool if
the warranty dont cover it , especialy 24v max serie ,if so your money go down the drain unlike makita or dewalt etc...
mic mac they’re cheap enough to just buy another one though.
Interesting, well for your answer on my last drill (18v bosch compact tough) i broke the hosing with 9 feet drop @ -15 celcius for sure that kind of damage is not cover by the warranty so after few clic on google i found parts to fixit , the drill was 185$ and i was more then happy to found a brand new hosing at 20$ so the question is you trow to garbage or fixit? i dont need tell what was my next mouve , now jan/03/2018 the Kobalt drill 24v is 199$ at lowes.
mic mac The entire set. Drill, Impact, Circular Saw, Sawzall and light is $269 now. The drill is like 119 by itself. I think you are looking at the drill kit with battery and charger.
@Lia Flexx Yeah, being able to just bring it back to Lowes outweights any benefit offered by Dewalt. As far as brushless, Kobalt has Dewalt beat in terms of power AND price. You can pickup a $200 impact, drill, reciprocate, and light 24V brushless system vs Dewalts 20V brushed system @ $250. Shit, you can pickup batteries for 24V Kobalts @ 10 bucks. Cheap as all get-out.
what is the power rating of the motor?
I have the same drill, but the front part dosen't work, when I turn It on, the motor sounds like it's working but the chuck doesn't spin, how i do fix this?
take it back to Lowe's for a replacement, they have 5 year warranties.
Unless you bought it as a part of a full kit. The chuck is failing on mine. Brought it in, but store manager would not exchange for the available same model number driver during on the shelf because I got mine as part of a six piece kit. They insist I bring in the whole kit and would issue me a refund (in the form of a gift card) for my purchase price as the kit is no longer sold.
Of course I bought the kit on sale so I cannot get a replacement for what I paid.
The want me to return a fully functional circ saw, recip saw, flashlight, and impact driver because one item failed without the ability to recover the exact working items it's have to return.
Very disappointed in Lowe's. If they don't fix this issue, I'm going to convert to Orange....
My drill just started to have the light blink rapidly for no apparent reason. I didn't switch torque settings or anything like that. I was wondering if excessive dust could cause any internal issues. And what you would recommend that I can do to fix it. Also, purchased this as a six piece kit o Black Friday, so I would have to return the whole thing. Any ideas would be useful. Peace, D
Was the blinking light the one on the drill itself, or on the battery? 🔋
@@Filterficial mine is doing it and its the led on the drill that blinks. I can pull the trigger and itll run the first time but once you release the trigger the light starts blinking and you have to remove the battery and put the battery back on and itll run again on that initial trigger pull.
I believe what’s happening is that the brake isn’t engaging when you let me know go of the trigger and the controller system is detecting it and flashing the light to indicate an error.
What’s the fix? I don’t know!
It's been awhile since your post but I had the same issue. Ended up buying a new drill on sale but decided to take a stab at fixing it. Took it apart. Wiped saw dust off of all the electrical components put it back together and it worked. Bought the drill as part of a bundle on sale 2 years ago and they didn't sell that bundle anymore, so the warranty was basically garbage.
@@jmekosh hi! I have the same issue with my hammer drill. I can’t return it without proof of purchase… so, you cleaned yours out and it started working normally again?
Where is the brake
Under 3 minutes. Thanks
Can the chuck be replaced? How? And what's a great selection for replacement to get?
Chris m I contacted Jacobs, Kobalt Corporate, and ultimately Chervon (manufacturer). All I needed was the bolt at the back of the chuck that holds it in. No dice. In store swap required.
@@HighSpeedChase762 ACE hardware for the bolt, maybe. This drill is available without battery on eBay for $50+$10 S&H.