Hey ol timmer I seen your video after I did my heads I gasket matched my heads and I knew I messed up my heads when I put it all back together and it ran great I am usually the type that fucks up shit cause I’m just so busy all the time and trying to do 5 things at once but I am proud of myself and like to say it’s not as hard as people think
TPV Productions I used a sharpie for years, I always seemed to have one! lol I just happened to run across the Dykem at Metal by the Foot in KC so I grabbed it. Needless to say a container of Dykem lasts a long time! JD
Good video again. Ur the man! I have 799’s on my ‘13 GMC Sierra and wanna do afm delete,cam and maybe porting some day. Gotta finish my 03 marauder build first.
Sean Desrosiers I saw a Mercury Marauder with a V10 swap years ago from Kansas. That would be a sweet engine swap! I’m trying to document these 243’s as I work through them. Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! JD
Lang Lee I’ve getting ready to show porting another set of LS cathedral port heads! I hope you’re subscribed so you’ll get notified, Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! JD
You dont leave a blocking flow face ledge on the head for a anti-reversion help ?? I know most LS cams have wider lobe seperation angles and this shows best with narrower LSA . . However that can really help torque well below peak ive found . Especially on smaller engines they are much more responsive with this A.R. ledge left on around the port with the manifold or header flange opening enlarged to form a dam to reverse flow .
So going back to 'gasket matching'.. If you take you heads of and see the carbon on the face of exh side of head.. You can raise the roof and use the carbon build-up as a reference. Of course see leave some room for margin of error unless you also plan to take material off the 'roof' of the header primary tube. I'm doing this now on my dd heads that have 1.75in primary long tubes.
Yes you’re correct on seeing the carbon outline. There is some truth to leaving the roof slightly lower/shorter than the header/manifold to combat exhaust pulse reversion; how much it helps and when it’s a concern I’m not sure. Just remember once you open the exhaust port exit to match the larger header you can’t go back to stock manifolds or smaller tube headers. JD
Had to come back to this video and leave another comment.... Darn exhaust got me this weekend. I went to see the fitment of the squarer port headers from the SBC how it looked on the LT1 head. And man, that D port I raised was hitting a wall up top. Spent all day porting and welding material back on them headers. I will be sure to give you a shot out on this video it’s a subject many people just skip leaving HP on the table.
TPV Productions I’d expect the exhaust port to flow much better/efficient which will help stop the intake charge contamination/dilution when the exhaust gases can’t get out fast enough. I can’t wait to see how it runs! 👍😉 Thanks for watching and the feedback!! JD
What is your practice, prior to starting porting customers heads ,to determine if heads are cracked? Do you clean and inspect them or send them out? Is it fairly common to be cracked by exhaust seats on the alum. LS heads, like the one of your own that you found? Were you able to save that head? Thanks
Docg 92S10 I’ve started closely checking all the castings in between the valve seats. It is a common occurrence to see a heat cracking on some higher mileage castings. The set I had last year passed a vacuum check so the cracking was on the surface. I had a few people reply to the video saying they had the same issue with their heads and none of them leaked either. I was wondering if the issue was related to specific castings, excessive heat situations or other service related cause? Locally the shops charge $100.00-150.00 to check a set of heads if needed.
So the main focus is the roof of the exh port. Now on the floor, should still clean up all casting surface so it's still smoother vs rigid or bumpy texture correct?n Thanks
@@HeadFlowInc Ok. Cool. Do you have a FB page? I think the 243's I'm working on are turning out nicely being the 1st set of heads I've ever ported to use on a motor. I'm going to make a video of them when finished. And if they turn out good, then it shows you were a good teacher! Thanks again. Very much appreciated all your videos and direct help! Have a safe one!
@@HeadFlowInc I used it when I was a machinist. We always used it in a aerosol can. The dykem remover is some stout stuff that will take white off rice!
Im working woth 243 heads as well but my side wall isnt as close to the gasket as yours in the video are. Could you please shed some light on this issue.
Tiga Tamimi So your saying the walls of your exhaust ports aren’t close to the gasket? First thing, verify the gasket is oriented correctly in terms of “Side toward manifold” this side up. It’s easy to put the gasket on wrong. If the gasket is on right, scribe the walls and roof to see where the gasket match needs to be. JD
@@HeadFlowInc the gasket is correct for sure. All the holes lined up down was down and manifold side is out. If you have an email i could send u some pictures i dont wanna ruin the heads so any help would be greatly appreciated.
I see them on Facebook market place for $350.00-$600.00 a set in various condition. Which casting do you have now? facebook.com/marketplace/item/768415024797085/?mibextid=6ojiHh
I let the customer decide if they want the rocker bolt lump fully removed or greatly reduced. For years I only reduced the lump but then decided to start offering removal; you’d be surprised how many people don’t want to mess with putting sealer on the rocker bolts after removing the lump. I plan on doing a video showing flow difference between stock, reduced and removed rocker bolt lump. JD
Honestly starting with the exhaust port exit is an easy first step I felt to get started. Many times I start with the bowl cut percentages but I didn’t want a first time or inexperienced porter feeling added stress/pressure to start in such a crucial area. It does depend on how confident you are with tool control/technique on where you start. Does this answer your question? JD
Hey Peter I knew you were still out there waiting. I have complete flow sheets on a set of 243’s on paper; I haven’t taken the time to create a spreadsheet with the data. I’m using Clark Riddle Flowbench Testing in Independence, Mo. I’m currently moving but what data are you interested in?
sacgrown1 It’s a great Daily Driver, not too bad on gas, but be honest with yourself how important the idle sound is. The 1838p has a very mild idle, if you really want some “Chop” I’d recommend the 1839p 👍😉
sacgrown1 I’m apologizing, RUclips doesn’t notify me of subsequent replies! I’d recommend at least a 2800+ converter with the 1838p cam for racing or a 2200-2600 for a driver. Probably too late and my apologies! JD
MicTheGreaseMonkey I have an old video discussing porting math. Basically it’s percentages and blending; knowing where not to remove material. Your bowl cuts and valve job are huge to improving flow. I use these bowl cut percentages: *** I Intake bowl 89-90% of valve size. *** Exhaust bowl 86-87% of valve size. Smoothly blending the transition to the bowl without removing much material behind the guide. Valve guide boss reduction/shaping. Gasket matching both intake/exhaust. Etc. There’s more to it depending on what heads you’re working but it’s a basic recipe. JD
Would you like too do a build off. We can build a motor from the bottom up do it in a couple of stages like we can build the heads put it on a flow bench see the flow complete the motors put them on a Dyno and see who makes more horsepower then we can donate the motors to any veterans charity
I was never notified of this post, I just found it. I’m not a successful youtuber I don’t have the money to do a build off. Sadly I like the idea though, I build 4.8’s because they’re more affordable. I now have access to a flow bench again but not sure about an engine Dyno and the costs. I will be upgrading my 4.8 turbo in my S10 Blazer over the Winter if you’re interested in building a 4.8. JD
What can be done to a 4.8, I'm dipping into the LS world finally I know it started years ago but it wasn't my thing till. I have a 4.8 low miles in a shortbed bed Silverado. Just want a little more go without redoing the while engine right now.
Frank M First and most importantly is a performance Tune! The factory sends these engines out so detuned and lean you’ll be amazed how much power it can make stock! Naturally a camshaft will add another 50-75hp but be careful how big you go unless you want/plan to change rear gears and upgrade to a performance torque converter. A stock 4.8 with a tune makes a little over 300hp at the crankshaft. With a moderate cam upgrade you could easily hit 350-370hp+ at the crankshaft. Naturally I recommend upgrading the valve springs during the camshaft install and replace all the positive valve seals to. Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! JD
@@HeadFlowInc Thanks for reply. I'll make sure not to go over board with the tune. I plan to get another 4.8 to build but its Daily driver so I don't want to go all out haha but I probably will again
What would be your suggestion for the max camshaft without changing your stock stall, 212/218? Would it be beneficial to lap and seat your valves at the bare minimum while doing a cam swap?
Generally a fully ported set assembled with customer supplied springs etc $750.00. I encourage you to email me as I’m willing to work with people on shipping etc. JD
GTO Kid Flow numbers are available and many shops can provide copies of flow numbers to make a person feel better, but there’s no way to know if they actually flowed your heads. After the early 2000’s here in the KC area there wasn’t any flow bench available after K&M machine shop closed; No flow sheets available. Recently in the last 1-2 years we have located a private individual who owns the K&M flow bench offering flow service for $125.00! Problem is I offer to have my heads flowed but nobody chooses to pay for it. I guess the best answer is I don’t own a flow bench and can’t justify spending $125.00 to have each set flowed unless the customer pays for it. A BIG issue I see is with flow sheets showing big flow at .700-.800” lift where nobody runs cams this big! What’s important is the flow from .200”-.650” lift where the cams are built to run. My old 215cc port flowed 275+ cfm at .600” lift My old 220cc port flowed 285+ cfm at .600” lift I’ve since added a 225cc port I’m confident flows 300+ cfm at .600”
GTO Kid Which port size and valve sizes? I have a set of 862’s stock valves 1.89”/1.55” I’m finishing now. Or I have a set of 241 heads 2.00”-1.55” valves I could work on. JD
Mario Rosales It all depends on if the heads need any machine work and if the valves are in good shape. Porting the heads runs $750.00 plus shipping both ways; the customer supplies new parts. Springs, Seals etc etc. surfacing the heads $125.00 CNC Valve job I’ll have to get the current price from Nolands Cylinder Heads. If changing valve sizes a valve job is required, like 1.89” to 2.00”
Mario Rosales Hey Mario, I was going to mention, I’m considering porting heads and having them for sale ready to ship if that works better? I know when there’s shipping both ways it can be expensive, I fully insure heads after porting which always costs me $100.00+ when returning heads. There are also different stages to porting if you didn’t want cash much porting etc. Anyway I wanted to touch base with you! Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! JD
Im sorry but the best way to do what your doing and how most engine builders do it is to use the header or manifold your useing and put dye on one side ,bolt it on then, open the ports to match each other after you open your head as far as you can open it. If your useing manifolds then i would open the head up as much as i could top and bottom then port match manifold to head.not with the gasket you can trim that to fit after you open the head not saying your way dosnt help just not as much as you could. If your going to port a little might as well open them as far as you can get them. I know you can open those ports alot more then your going
Charles Torruella You have NO idea what your talking about, it’s just that simple. You NEVER port the floor of the port, so your inexperienced statement of making the port as big as possible Top & Bottom shows you know nothing about head flow. I could waste my time chastising you, but instead I’ll invite you to research porting theory so you can learn how wrong you are. Good luck! JD
Actually, there's several instances where the floors need work but it's generally in the area of the short turn radius in order to control the air speed. Widening, lowering and/or raising the area in the short turns is actually VERY common depending on the casting and what it needs. That's where experience, hours spent on a flowbench with a manometer, flow balls, etc. and later dyno testing pays dividends. Most experienced head porters will also either pour molds of the ports or will cut templates that can be used as go-nogo gauges in order to save time the next time they are working on the same casting numbers. It also aides in port-to-port duplication. You'll also find some cylinder head guys actually prefer the port opening (ex port) to actually be a smidge smaller than the header flange/exhaust manifold. Several reputable porters and engine builders have said it actually helps negate some reversion. and for the record, approximately 80-90% of the flow (and thus HP) gains you'll find on those (most all factory) castings will be in the bowls/short turns and blending into the chambers in order to unshroud the valve and increase the curtain area. "Hogging" in the runners may look cool, but doesn't generally have much (if any) payoff in terms of performance.
You porting techniques are almost identical to mine and your right this guy has absolutely no idea what he is talking about. I've seen so many people ruin heads because they think your suppose to open the port as big as you can and drop the floor that couldn't be further from the truth. I love it when i give someone a price for port work and they say thats to high I'll do it myself and they end up bringing the heads in to me to fix and it costs them more because they hogged completely out.
Hey ol timmer I seen your video after I did my heads I gasket matched my heads and I knew I messed up my heads when I put it all back together and it ran great I am usually the type that fucks up shit cause I’m just so busy all the time and trying to do 5 things at once but I am proud of myself and like to say it’s not as hard as people think
Sorry I wasn’t notified of your post! Thanks I appreciate your feedback! JD
Great job Chris Griffin !
YEOOOO i was literally like why does he sound like Chris and Cleveland combined🤣
I’m so ghetto… I just use a sharpie marker for my scribe. Thanks for showing the correct way. 👍
TPV Productions I used a sharpie for years, I always seemed to have one! lol I just happened to run across the Dykem at Metal by the Foot in KC so I grabbed it. Needless to say a container of Dykem lasts a long time! JD
Makes sense
Thanx for sharing your personal experience man
Thank you for watching and the feedback! JD
Good video again. Ur the man! I have 799’s on my ‘13 GMC Sierra and wanna do afm delete,cam and maybe porting some day. Gotta finish my 03 marauder build first.
Sean Desrosiers I saw a Mercury Marauder with a V10 swap years ago from Kansas. That would be a sweet engine swap!
I’m trying to document these 243’s as I work through them. Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! JD
Anyone can boost an engine, but I LOVE head porting and flow bench work.
Lang Lee I’ve getting ready to show porting another set of LS cathedral port heads! I hope you’re subscribed so you’ll get notified, Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! JD
@@HeadFlowInc , indeed I am and thank you.
I like building power with FLOW not BLOW !!!!!!
You dont leave a blocking flow face ledge on the head for a anti-reversion help ?? I know most LS cams have wider lobe seperation angles and this shows best with narrower LSA . . However that can really help torque well below peak ive found . Especially on smaller engines they are much more responsive with this A.R. ledge left on around the port with the manifold or header flange opening enlarged to form a dam to reverse flow .
So going back to 'gasket matching'.. If you take you heads of and see the carbon on the face of exh side of head.. You can raise the roof and use the carbon build-up as a reference. Of course see leave some room for margin of error unless you also plan to take material off the 'roof' of the header primary tube. I'm doing this now on my dd heads that have 1.75in primary long tubes.
Yes you’re correct on seeing the carbon outline. There is some truth to leaving the roof slightly lower/shorter than the header/manifold to combat exhaust pulse reversion; how much it helps and when it’s a concern I’m not sure.
Just remember once you open the exhaust port exit to match the larger header you can’t go back to stock manifolds or smaller tube headers. JD
@@HeadFlowInc exactly. Measure 2x.. Cut 1x. Plus more time I'm porting.. Longer I'm gonna get my car back together.
Had to come back to this video and leave another comment.... Darn exhaust got me this weekend. I went to see the fitment of the squarer port headers from the SBC how it looked on the LT1 head. And man, that D port I raised was hitting a wall up top. Spent all day porting and welding material back on them headers. I will be sure to give you a shot out on this video it’s a subject many people just skip leaving HP on the table.
TPV Productions I’d expect the exhaust port to flow much better/efficient which will help stop the intake charge contamination/dilution when the exhaust gases can’t get out fast enough. I can’t wait to see how it runs! 👍😉
Thanks for watching and the feedback!! JD
Be careful with scribing, to deep of a scribe not removed by porting will result in cracking. Good video. Thanks for sharing.
Where the hell do you get that information? That is the stupidest thing I have ever heard. 🤦🏼
What is your practice, prior to starting porting customers heads ,to determine if heads are cracked? Do you clean and inspect them or send them out? Is it fairly common to be cracked by exhaust seats on the alum. LS heads, like the one of your own that you found? Were you able to save that head? Thanks
Docg 92S10 I’ve started closely checking all the castings in between the valve seats. It is a common occurrence to see a heat cracking on some higher mileage castings. The set I had last year passed a vacuum check so the cracking was on the surface.
I had a few people reply to the video saying they had the same issue with their heads and none of them leaked either. I was wondering if the issue was related to specific castings, excessive heat situations or other service related cause?
Locally the shops charge $100.00-150.00 to check a set of heads if needed.
706 castings seem to be the worst for this cracking to cause problems .
would you be interested in a custom porting job? I'd like to have some 799 heads ported.
What’s the plan I need details! Contact me via email
jeffdubray@gmail.com
Nice to see you back
So the main focus is the roof of the exh port. Now on the floor, should still clean up all casting surface so it's still smoother vs rigid or bumpy texture correct?n
Thanks
Yes, you are correct the floor will only be touched enough to create texture to blend. JD
@@HeadFlowInc Ok. Cool. Do you have a FB page? I think the 243's I'm working on are turning out nicely being the 1st set of heads I've ever ported to use on a motor. I'm going to make a video of them when finished. And if they turn out good, then it shows you were a good teacher! Thanks again. Very much appreciated all your videos and direct help!
Have a safe one!
@@charliecadaver666 It sounds like your doing great! Going slow and getting used to the tools is key.
FB Jeff DuBray
What marker do you use for that? I've seen it used in machining alot.
Lime I use Dykem steel blue...
www.amazon.com/Dykem-Layout-Fluid/dp/B079HHPGMS
@@HeadFlowInc I used it when I was a machinist. We always used it in a aerosol can. The dykem remover is some stout stuff that will take white off rice!
Im working woth 243 heads as well but my side wall isnt as close to the gasket as yours in the video are. Could you please shed some light on this issue.
Tiga Tamimi So your saying the walls of your exhaust ports aren’t close to the gasket?
First thing, verify the gasket is oriented correctly in terms of “Side toward manifold” this side up. It’s easy to put the gasket on wrong.
If the gasket is on right, scribe the walls and roof to see where the gasket match needs to be. JD
@@HeadFlowInc the gasket is correct for sure. All the holes lined up down was down and manifold side is out. If you have an email i could send u some pictures i dont wanna ruin the heads so any help would be greatly appreciated.
JD- any of these castings available near you? I just had a head crack
I see them on Facebook market place for $350.00-$600.00 a set in various condition. Which casting do you have now?
facebook.com/marketplace/item/768415024797085/?mibextid=6ojiHh
Not sure if you have this on another video.....but do you remove the bump for the rocker bolt in the intake runner?
I let the customer decide if they want the rocker bolt lump fully removed or greatly reduced. For years I only reduced the lump but then decided to start offering removal; you’d be surprised how many people don’t want to mess with putting sealer on the rocker bolts after removing the lump.
I plan on doing a video showing flow difference between stock, reduced and removed rocker bolt lump. JD
@@HeadFlowInc that would be awesome to see, I’ve just removed mine and wondered how much difference removing them makes!
Good information
Thanks
Jack Smith Thanks for watching and for the feedback I appreciate it! JD
Would this be applicable to any ls casting heads?
Honestly starting with the exhaust port exit is an easy first step I felt to get started. Many times I start with the bowl cut percentages but I didn’t want a first time or inexperienced porter feeling added stress/pressure to start in such a crucial area. It does depend on how confident you are with tool control/technique on where you start. Does this answer your question? JD
Flow numbers? The numbers you never provide to see what your port work does?
Hey Peter I knew you were still out there waiting. I have complete flow sheets on a set of 243’s on paper; I haven’t taken the time to create a spreadsheet with the data. I’m using Clark Riddle Flowbench Testing in Independence, Mo.
I’m currently moving but what data are you interested in?
Hey man how is that 1838 cam for a daily driver NA 5.3?
sacgrown1 It’s a great Daily Driver, not too bad on gas, but be honest with yourself how important the idle sound is. The 1838p has a very mild idle, if you really want some “Chop” I’d recommend the 1839p 👍😉
HeadFlowInc awesome thanks do you recommend a stall with this cam?
sacgrown1 I’m apologizing, RUclips doesn’t notify me of subsequent replies! I’d recommend at least a 2800+ converter with the 1838p cam for racing or a 2200-2600 for a driver. Probably too late and my apologies! JD
Hi hf thnxs for sharing. is there any ruff mathematical formular for porting the bowl to runners or even runners to exhaust ports at all.
MicTheGreaseMonkey I have an old video discussing porting math.
Basically it’s percentages and blending; knowing where not to remove material.
Your bowl cuts and valve job are huge to improving flow.
I use these bowl cut percentages:
*** I Intake bowl 89-90% of valve size.
*** Exhaust bowl 86-87% of valve size.
Smoothly blending the transition to the bowl without removing much material behind the guide.
Valve guide boss reduction/shaping.
Gasket matching both intake/exhaust. Etc. There’s more to it depending on what heads you’re working but it’s a basic recipe. JD
Are you THE Chad ? Ex from Corvette Forum?
No sir I’m not but Chad does have a RUclips channel showing his port work.
ruclips.net/channel/UCJIBzzbIyy6nhnjEEh3QQ6A
Done my best to look you up to send you some heads. How do I go about it?
Details:
Jeffdubray@gmail.com
Are you still in service if so I would like to send my 241 heads for porting
I’m backed up due to some new health issues. Send me note.
Jeff Dubray @ gmail .com
Thanks.
Good video m8!
Jst Drv Thanks for watching and the feedback! JD
@@HeadFlowInc i have a lm4 alloy engine with 706 heads sitting here, wondering what to do with it
Would you like too do a build off. We can build a motor from the bottom up do it in a couple of stages like we can build the heads put it on a flow bench see the flow complete the motors put them on a Dyno and see who makes more horsepower then we can donate the motors to any veterans charity
I was never notified of this post, I just found it. I’m not a successful youtuber I don’t have the money to do a build off. Sadly
I like the idea though, I build 4.8’s because they’re more affordable. I now have access to a flow bench again but not sure about an engine Dyno and the costs.
I will be upgrading my 4.8 turbo in my S10 Blazer over the Winter if you’re interested in building a 4.8. JD
What can be done to a 4.8, I'm dipping into the LS world finally I know it started years ago but it wasn't my thing till. I have a 4.8 low miles in a shortbed bed Silverado. Just want a little more go without redoing the while engine right now.
Frank M First and most importantly is a performance Tune! The factory sends these engines out so detuned and lean you’ll be amazed how much power it can make stock! Naturally a camshaft will add another 50-75hp but be careful how big you go unless you want/plan to change rear gears and upgrade to a performance torque converter.
A stock 4.8 with a tune makes a little over 300hp at the crankshaft. With a moderate cam upgrade you could easily hit 350-370hp+ at the crankshaft.
Naturally I recommend upgrading the valve springs during the camshaft install and replace all the positive valve seals to.
Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! JD
@@HeadFlowInc Thanks for reply. I'll make sure not to go over board with the tune. I plan to get another 4.8 to build but its Daily driver so I don't want to go all out haha but I probably will again
What would be your suggestion for the max camshaft without changing your stock stall, 212/218? Would it be beneficial to lap and seat your valves at the bare minimum while doing a cam swap?
How much does the porting cost for 243 heads?
Jose A Rodriguez Email me jeffdubray@gmail.com
Generally a fully ported set assembled with customer supplied springs etc $750.00. I encourage you to email me as I’m willing to work with people on shipping etc. JD
@@HeadFlowInc is that sending our heads in or buying heads done?
How come you don't have any flow numbers?
GTO Kid Flow numbers are available and many shops can provide copies of flow numbers to make a person feel better, but there’s no way to know if they actually flowed your heads.
After the early 2000’s here in the KC area there wasn’t any flow bench available after K&M machine shop closed; No flow sheets available.
Recently in the last 1-2 years we have located a private individual who owns the K&M flow bench offering flow service for $125.00! Problem is I offer to have my heads flowed but nobody chooses to pay for it.
I guess the best answer is I don’t own a flow bench and can’t justify spending $125.00 to have each set flowed unless the customer pays for it. A BIG issue I see is with flow sheets showing big flow at .700-.800” lift where nobody runs cams this big! What’s important is the flow from .200”-.650” lift where the cams are built to run.
My old 215cc port flowed 275+ cfm at .600” lift
My old 220cc port flowed 285+ cfm at .600” lift
I’ve since added a 225cc port I’m confident flows 300+ cfm at .600”
@@HeadFlowInc you port 1 intake and exhaust, and I'll have them flowed.
GTO Kid Which port size and valve sizes? I have a set of 862’s stock valves 1.89”/1.55” I’m finishing now. Or I have a set of 241 heads 2.00”-1.55” valves I could work on. JD
@@HeadFlowInc let's see your 241 numbers, sence most ls heads are 2.00 valve.
Ok, keep an eye out for the Videos on porting the 241’s. But are you wanting to see a max effort port or something moderate?
My step one was sending them the Katech.
Katech doesn’t have very good flow numbers compared to many other options.
How much to port my heads ?? How in houston TX
Mario Rosales It all depends on if the heads need any machine work and if the valves are in good shape.
Porting the heads runs $750.00 plus shipping both ways; the customer supplies new parts. Springs, Seals etc etc.
surfacing the heads $125.00
CNC Valve job I’ll have to get the current price from Nolands Cylinder Heads. If changing valve sizes a valve job is required, like 1.89” to 2.00”
Mario Rosales Hey Mario, I was going to mention, I’m considering porting heads and having them for sale ready to ship if that works better? I know when there’s shipping both ways it can be expensive, I fully insure heads after porting which always costs me $100.00+ when returning heads.
There are also different stages to porting if you didn’t want cash much porting etc. Anyway I wanted to touch base with you! Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! JD
sweet ! go check oit my Cathedral porting video !!
Cut the top of the header or ex manifold
Why not lower the floor to a round port?
Nope kills flow, there’s flow reasons why you don’t mess with the floor. JD
@@HeadFlowInc thanks. Just found your video explaining it. Thank you
Im sorry but the best way to do what your doing and how most engine builders do it is to use the header or manifold your useing and put dye on one side ,bolt it on then, open the ports to match each other after you open your head as far as you can open it. If your useing manifolds then i would open the head up as much as i could top and bottom then port match manifold to head.not with the gasket you can trim that to fit after you open the head not saying your way dosnt help just not as much as you could. If your going to port a little might as well open them as far as you can get them. I know you can open those ports alot more then your going
Charles Torruella You have NO idea what your talking about, it’s just that simple.
You NEVER port the floor of the port, so your inexperienced statement of making the port as big as possible Top & Bottom shows you know nothing about head flow.
I could waste my time chastising you, but instead I’ll invite you to research porting theory so you can learn how wrong you are. Good luck! JD
Actually, there's several instances where the floors need work but it's generally in the area of the short turn radius in order to control the air speed.
Widening, lowering and/or raising the area in the short turns is actually VERY common depending on the casting and what it needs.
That's where experience, hours spent on a flowbench with a manometer, flow balls, etc. and later dyno testing pays dividends.
Most experienced head porters will also either pour molds of the ports or will cut templates that can be used as go-nogo gauges in order to save time the next time they are working on the same casting numbers. It also aides in port-to-port duplication.
You'll also find some cylinder head guys actually prefer the port opening (ex port) to actually be a smidge smaller than the header flange/exhaust manifold. Several reputable porters and engine builders have said it actually helps negate some reversion.
and for the record, approximately 80-90% of the flow (and thus HP) gains you'll find on those (most all factory) castings will be in the bowls/short turns and blending into the chambers in order to unshroud the valve and increase the curtain area. "Hogging" in the runners may look cool, but doesn't generally have much (if any) payoff in terms of performance.
@@HeadFlowInc do you have any recommended reading regarding porting theory? I'd love to check out some info on the topic
You porting techniques are almost identical to mine and your right this guy has absolutely no idea what he is talking about. I've seen so many people ruin heads because they think your suppose to open the port as big as you can and drop the floor that couldn't be further from the truth. I love it when i give someone a price for port work and they say thats to high I'll do it myself and they end up bringing the heads in to me to fix and it costs them more because they hogged completely out.