00:26 you say "adjust so the rifle is off your pec muscle and maintain a constant eye relief" 00:46 you say "adjust so the rifle is on your chest so that recoil only tracks back" You okay over there? Which is it bc the last time I checked, my pec muscle is also my chest.
I have yet to ever see anyone just get to it like y'all did on this, just WOW, if you were teaching this as a class in person i'd stand in line to shake your alls hands... Great WORK !
Got a chuckle out of the bit about folks trying to log into your Kestrel and changing the settings before you are about to shoot.. I can only imagine its happened for you to mention it! Thanks for your videos. Got XRS and Oryx with your cheaper bipod. One day I hope to upgrade to the ACC premiere and expensive bipod. Your customer service has always been great - prompt and courteous. Say hello to Alexis doing the shipment processing, the little smile on the card in the box put a simile on our faces! As a Canadian, I'm pleased to have a local company like MDT.
Couple of tips: 1.) muzzle brake should always be tightened with a wrench, never hand tight only. Keep a check on your brake. Heat cycling can loosen the brake so that it’s loose with a warm/hot barrel but tight when cold. A dab of Rocksett is not a bad idea. 2.) A good rule of thumb or initial mounting position for a scope is that the rear of the scope’s ocular lens (the part that can hit your eye) is even with the rear of the grip. If you’re very far from this position, you probably have your stock adjusted improperly. It’s very common to see folks have too much extension in the length of pull (butt pad distance) and/or cheek riser too tall. Some folks that get adjustable stocks move them way out of shape because it looks cool and they bought an adjustable stock. However, like these guys said, shorter is better and cheek height needs to put your eye directly center of the scope. No more, no less. You should instantly and quickly get both a proper eye relief and center image as soon as you take a shooting position. You should never have to adjust or work to get a good sight picture through the scope when you assume a firing position.
All of my muzzle brakes are hand tight. I just have some man hands I guess. 😂 Also if you brake and barrel are the same material, they will both grow at the same rate. They will be tight hot or cold. I'll adjust my check rest and LOP to whatever feels comfortable for my body dimensions. Specifically short or long is not better then the other. It's adjustable to suit anyone's body. I'll put my scope where ever matches to my body, cheek, lop.
@@240sxRule My suggestions are based on my experience as a gunsmith and assistant instructor for a 2-day long range shooting course. I encounter these common issues in almost every class and when setting up and testing rifles for customers. We have brakes work loose so often in classes and in matches that I carry a small strap wrench in my regular tool kit. It’s the first thing I check if groups open up when the barrel gets warm. Adjustable stocks aren’t adjustable for comfort but for proper control and interaction with the other parts of the rifle. These are suggestions for folks that realize they have a problem or don’t know where to start. They are not laws of the universe and you’re free to set your rifle up how you want, correct or not.
Wow! I'm just starting out with a rem 700. I have a muzzle break now, and two bags (Game Changer and a Squishy). In the process of setting up reloading equipment, but I see that I still have a long way to go. That MDT chassis looks like it would be night and day against a Bell and Carlson Light Tactical. LOL
Yes, we are finally done production, and we will be launching in the coming weeks, make sure you are signed up for our newsletter so you don't miss out.
To make sure it's [drop safe] and won't fire when handled roughly. Off the shelf guns are typically very drop safe to maximize safety and minimize manufacturer liability. The modularity of today's competition gun market means that end users can assemble a competition rig that's cutting edge to maximize accuracy (ultra light triggers, etc) but still be safe to handle while loaded in case the rig falls (and not cause a negligent discharge). At best, someone gets DQd and sent home ashamed. At worst, someone is injured/killed, and then criminal/civil liabilities follow.
I was taught by a guy NOT to clean the barrel. The copper lapping is good for it. He swears by it! I was also taught to break in a barrel which, he also says not to!
It depends on the quality of the barrel, a poopy factory barrel can benefit from the copper deposits. A good barrel should be cleaned to maintain consistency
I just clean out the carbon with an oily rag, then a dry rag - no brass brushes etc. the carbon is what damages the rifle, copper buildup is good for me. works well.
These guys are concerned with the weight of the *dust and residue* on their muzzle break affecting their accuracy. I have my bipod clamped directly onto the barrel of my 16-in AKM. I think if went shooting with these guys I’d be punching above my weight class…
The new animation for liking a video looks great!
I see what you did there. 😉
00:26 you say "adjust so the rifle is off your pec muscle and maintain a constant eye relief"
00:46 you say "adjust so the rifle is on your chest so that recoil only tracks back"
You okay over there? Which is it bc the last time I checked, my pec muscle is also my chest.
I have yet to ever see anyone just get to it like y'all did on this, just WOW, if you were teaching this as a class in person i'd stand in line to shake your alls hands... Great WORK !
Got a chuckle out of the bit about folks trying to log into your Kestrel and changing the settings before you are about to shoot.. I can only imagine its happened for you to mention it!
Thanks for your videos. Got XRS and Oryx with your cheaper bipod. One day I hope to upgrade to the ACC premiere and expensive bipod.
Your customer service has always been great - prompt and courteous. Say hello to Alexis doing the shipment processing, the little smile on the card in the box put a simile on our faces!
As a Canadian, I'm pleased to have a local company like MDT.
Couple of tips: 1.) muzzle brake should always be tightened with a wrench, never hand tight only. Keep a check on your brake. Heat cycling can loosen the brake so that it’s loose with a warm/hot barrel but tight when cold. A dab of Rocksett is not a bad idea. 2.) A good rule of thumb or initial mounting position for a scope is that the rear of the scope’s ocular lens (the part that can hit your eye) is even with the rear of the grip. If you’re very far from this position, you probably have your stock adjusted improperly. It’s very common to see folks have too much extension in the length of pull (butt pad distance) and/or cheek riser too tall. Some folks that get adjustable stocks move them way out of shape because it looks cool and they bought an adjustable stock. However, like these guys said, shorter is better and cheek height needs to put your eye directly center of the scope. No more, no less. You should instantly and quickly get both a proper eye relief and center image as soon as you take a shooting position. You should never have to adjust or work to get a good sight picture through the scope when you assume a firing position.
All of my muzzle brakes are hand tight. I just have some man hands I guess. 😂
Also if you brake and barrel are the same material, they will both grow at the same rate. They will be tight hot or cold.
I'll adjust my check rest and LOP to whatever feels comfortable for my body dimensions. Specifically short or long is not better then the other. It's adjustable to suit anyone's body. I'll put my scope where ever matches to my body, cheek, lop.
@@240sxRule My suggestions are based on my experience as a gunsmith and assistant instructor for a 2-day long range shooting course. I encounter these common issues in almost every class and when setting up and testing rifles for customers. We have brakes work loose so often in classes and in matches that I carry a small strap wrench in my regular tool kit. It’s the first thing I check if groups open up when the barrel gets warm. Adjustable stocks aren’t adjustable for comfort but for proper control and interaction with the other parts of the rifle. These are suggestions for folks that realize they have a problem or don’t know where to start. They are not laws of the universe and you’re free to set your rifle up how you want, correct or not.
This video is so underrated. Subbed!
Thank you and we appreciate it! We will make sure to keep them coming
Awesome info Thanks .............
Great info./Great video !! - Thanks MDT Guys fer sharing.
Wow! I'm just starting out with a rem 700. I have a muzzle break now, and two bags (Game Changer and a Squishy). In the process of setting up reloading equipment, but I see that I still have a long way to go. That MDT chassis looks like it would be night and day against a Bell and Carlson Light Tactical. LOL
Great info.
Well done guys!
Where do I order one of those "long-distance social club" t- shirt's. Great video!
They sell em on the MDT website!
@@ThePleasedDoge ordered two. Thanks
Tip # 1: Have a lot of money
Slade, AKA, Super POG!
MDT ever going to release the gel inserts for the stocks?
Yes, we are finally done production, and we will be launching in the coming weeks, make sure you are signed up for our newsletter so you don't miss out.
Awesome video. What’s that rifle @6:02?
It's the ESS Chassis with the full rail, SRS-XF folding buttstock and high-scope base.
How do you clean your rifle barrel and not clean your brake? Do you remove the brake when cleaning your rifle?
First class
Do you guys sell the feel lip tools?
I dont understand the part about the sear. So just cycle the bolt 100 times to make sure everything hunky dorrie then drop it a couple times???
To make sure it's [drop safe] and won't fire when handled roughly.
Off the shelf guns are typically very drop safe to maximize safety and minimize manufacturer liability.
The modularity of today's competition gun market means that end users can assemble a competition rig that's cutting edge to maximize accuracy (ultra light triggers, etc) but still be safe to handle while loaded in case the rig falls (and not cause a negligent discharge).
At best, someone gets DQd and sent home ashamed.
At worst, someone is injured/killed, and then criminal/civil liabilities follow.
i often dream of just sliding my 1200$ bipod and letting it fall on the ground so i can gain 1 second on a stage
Lol, looking at these matches I believe I would need a stool at 5'4".
I was taught by a guy NOT to clean the barrel. The copper lapping is good for it. He swears by it!
I was also taught to break in a barrel which, he also says not to!
Sounds like he's trying to keep you down from reaching your full potential.
It depends on the quality of the barrel, a poopy factory barrel can benefit from the copper deposits. A good barrel should be cleaned to maintain consistency
I just clean out the carbon with an oily rag, then a dry rag - no brass brushes etc. the carbon is what damages the rifle, copper buildup is good for me. works well.
Was the guy that taught you up there with these two guys? Because if not, I'd listen to Keith and Andy.
@@SPROTIPS Todd Hodnett has some good info... I like his stuff.
These guys are concerned with the weight of the *dust and residue* on their muzzle break affecting their accuracy.
I have my bipod clamped directly onto the barrel of my 16-in AKM. I think if went shooting with these guys I’d be punching above my weight class…
Tip for Andy buy a razor 🪒