You should add cable mgmt straps to your list in the description! I'm going to be getting myself some -- you definitely sold me on them vs cable ties, as I'm continually modding my 3D printer.
Also you could go see cnc kitchens video on how to make a 3D printer more silent. Basically you put felt pads on the bottom of the printer then on a concrete paver (I’m thinking about making my own Bc I can’t find one that’s big enough) and below that you have an open cell foam (tbh I’m going to do closed cell foam then open foam) Also get the silent motherboard for this it reduces it another 10db or something like that (if you already don’t have it) I’m trying to make mine as quiet as possible so I can sleep with it in my room? Idk we’ll see
You RUclipsrs need to stop telling people to replace the METAL safety cover on their PSUs with PLASTIC ones. You are removing a CRITICAL safety component on the PSU that keeps component failures INSIDE the metal case by adding a plastic one that can easily catch fire in the event of a component failure inside the PSU. The metal PSU cover also helps keep EMI inside the PSU as well so you are potentially also adding more electrical noise to the system by removing that cover.
Well, I'm not telling anyone to do anything, I'm just showing them the process that I went through. Would you then argue that power supplies such as the one linked are less safe due to their highly exposed top panel? www.amazon.com/dp/B00M8TBJLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_B2PF4AQWNAJ62RCQHXCK Also they have flame retardant filaments which these covers can be printed out of www.amazon.com/dp/B07YF12D7L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_QM0G8KANFTGS8E4FEE18?psc=1
@@EB3DPrinting The linked PSU has still a Faraday cage on top of it, any extruding possibly high voltage wire would hit a metal mesh that is grounded, instantly melting the fuse. So no, these are not less safe. They are only less safe if you stick a screwdriver into it without touching the mesh, but this design is justified by the lack of active cooling. Also PLA is flammable. Luckily the modified design is still inside a metal box.
@@werdnaf thank you for that answer. I've done a bit more research on this since TH3D's comment and it seems the only "safe" way to do this is with end + flame retardant filament. Even then, that still has limita to what it can do. I will probably self manufacture a sheet metal lid for the psu instead
You could of used the same ends from the fan connect you cut on the fan ,saving yourself the wait and shipping , the fan was long enough to have enough. Currently someone put a thingverse file for a 120 version of this the Noctua A12x15 , which if you buy the chromax comes with an exter, therefore saving your fan and actually doing this mod on the cable itself, meaning you can reuse the fan without destroying it during the mod. Just got an Ender 5 plus and going to do this . Thank you very much the psu fan is very loud. This should help so much.
Just curious, how come you used the psu fan you did? it requires a new top case cover which i see some people oject too however Noctua makes a 4020 fan that i would think would just fit in place of the stock fan? also looking at the two noctua fans the one you used is listed at 19.9dm and the 4020 is listed at 14.9db so should be quieter, is there a reason i'm unaware of why the 4020 wouldn't work? Genuinely asking as looking at doing this myself
The Noctua 4020 would not supply sufficient enough airflow to keep the PSU cool. I would also say that I agree with those objections to modifying PSU fans in a manner that requires removing the top cover for a printed one.
@@EB3DPrinting thanks for the reply, do you have any recommendations for a better PSU replacement fan then? also 8i'm surprised that the Noctua wouldn't cool it enough given that it's replacing a fan of the same size and voltage
@@markc1793 The big difference is the fans fin shape and the rpms. I think the stock power supply fan hits like 10k+ rpms. As far as replacements. I haven't really looked into any since I've done this video. Ive seen similar fan mods where they keep the top cover but use a hole saw to cut a hole in the top cover. Then attach the fan to the outside of the top cover
@@EB3DPrinting but the perimeter walls have top layers and so does the very top of the print (The overhanging looking tower section.) When I sliced mine with 0 top and 0 bottom layers these spots were open unlike yours. Thanks in advance for the help
Does it turn on right away when plug in psu while power is on ? It doesn’t spin when I plugged it in. but when I plug it to PC with 2 pins, it spins. Maybe I had it backward with G - and + power…..?
Good video. Very detailed and meticulous presentation. Looking forward to your video on silencing Ender 3 v2. Thanks
You should add cable mgmt straps to your list in the description! I'm going to be getting myself some -- you definitely sold me on them vs cable ties, as I'm continually modding my 3D printer.
Yes I have them on all my printers now. Much prefer them to ties
Also you could go see cnc kitchens video on how to make a 3D printer more silent. Basically you put felt pads on the bottom of the printer then on a concrete paver (I’m thinking about making my own Bc I can’t find one that’s big enough) and below that you have an open cell foam (tbh I’m going to do closed cell foam then open foam) Also get the silent motherboard for this it reduces it another 10db or something like that (if you already don’t have it) I’m trying to make mine as quiet as possible so I can sleep with it in my room? Idk we’ll see
You RUclipsrs need to stop telling people to replace the METAL safety cover on their PSUs with PLASTIC ones. You are removing a CRITICAL safety component on the PSU that keeps component failures INSIDE the metal case by adding a plastic one that can easily catch fire in the event of a component failure inside the PSU. The metal PSU cover also helps keep EMI inside the PSU as well so you are potentially also adding more electrical noise to the system by removing that cover.
Well, I'm not telling anyone to do anything, I'm just showing them the process that I went through.
Would you then argue that power supplies such as the one linked are less safe due to their highly exposed top panel?
www.amazon.com/dp/B00M8TBJLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_B2PF4AQWNAJ62RCQHXCK
Also they have flame retardant filaments which these covers can be printed out of
www.amazon.com/dp/B07YF12D7L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_QM0G8KANFTGS8E4FEE18?psc=1
@@EB3DPrinting The linked PSU has still a Faraday cage on top of it, any extruding possibly high voltage wire would hit a metal mesh that is grounded, instantly melting the fuse. So no, these are not less safe. They are only less safe if you stick a screwdriver into it without touching the mesh, but this design is justified by the lack of active cooling.
Also PLA is flammable. Luckily the modified design is still inside a metal box.
@@werdnaf thank you for that answer. I've done a bit more research on this since TH3D's comment and it seems the only "safe" way to do this is with end + flame retardant filament. Even then, that still has limita to what it can do.
I will probably self manufacture a sheet metal lid for the psu instead
would this work with a Ender 5 S1 psu?
You could of used the same ends from the fan connect you cut on the fan ,saving yourself the wait and shipping , the fan was long enough to have enough. Currently someone put a thingverse file for a 120 version of this the Noctua A12x15 , which if you buy the chromax comes with an exter, therefore saving your fan and actually doing this mod on the cable itself, meaning you can reuse the fan without destroying it during the mod. Just got an Ender 5 plus and going to do this . Thank you very much the psu fan is very loud. This should help so much.
Did you check the voltage of the psu fan before? because it's a 24v psu and I saw you just install a 12v fan...
Yes, the psu output is 24v, but it uses a 12v fan for cooling
Just curious, how come you used the psu fan you did? it requires a new top case cover which i see some people oject too however Noctua makes a 4020 fan that i would think would just fit in place of the stock fan? also looking at the two noctua fans the one you used is listed at 19.9dm and the 4020 is listed at 14.9db so should be quieter, is there a reason i'm unaware of why the 4020 wouldn't work? Genuinely asking as looking at doing this myself
The Noctua 4020 would not supply sufficient enough airflow to keep the PSU cool. I would also say that I agree with those objections to modifying PSU fans in a manner that requires removing the top cover for a printed one.
@@EB3DPrinting thanks for the reply, do you have any recommendations for a better PSU replacement fan then? also 8i'm surprised that the Noctua wouldn't cool it enough given that it's replacing a fan of the same size and voltage
@@markc1793 The big difference is the fans fin shape and the rpms. I think the stock power supply fan hits like 10k+ rpms.
As far as replacements. I haven't really looked into any since I've done this video. Ive seen similar fan mods where they keep the top cover but use a hole saw to cut a hole in the top cover. Then attach the fan to the outside of the top cover
Great Work, it would be nice a video about the Ender 3V2 Mods!! :)
Thats a good idea. I could go over some of the mods I made for the 3v2 after I finish up the Jyers UBL video
Excellent video thank you
Could you share your White Corner Braces? I like the look of those!
Here ya go:
Large corner bracket
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3644062
Small corner bracket
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4873160
@@EB3DPrinting THank you!
Nice job
How did you get the fan cover/ mother board cover to be that mesh breathable pattern?
0 top and 0 bottom layers
@@EB3DPrinting but the perimeter walls have top layers and so does the very top of the print (The overhanging looking tower section.) When I sliced mine with 0 top and 0 bottom layers these spots were open unlike yours. Thanks in advance for the help
@@zachkonkel4594 did you figure it out? I'm trying to do that too lol
Nice one!
How does the 12v fan run on a 24v w/o a buck converter?
The power supply fan is actually a 12v connection. There is no need for a buck converter
Which way to plug in to the psu board red/black?
Red goes + black goes GND
Does it turn on right away when plug in psu while power is on ? It doesn’t spin when I plugged it in. but when I plug it to PC with 2 pins, it spins. Maybe I had it backward with G - and + power…..?
@@p.nation3583 the PSU fan is pwm, which means it's temperature controlled. It turns on once the PSU reaches a certain temperature.
I’m stupid I thought I fried one of em so now I got one extra… lol
@@p.nation3583 it's always good to double check and make sure. They typically turn on during the heat up process when the bed and hotend are heating
Better not use the words "cable management" and "ender 5" in the same sentence. What a mess.