Here's a helpful tip. On the late model Transits (mine is a 2020) the height of your cross bars need to be a minimum of 60mm above the factory threaded roof inserts in order to clear the arch in the middle of the roof. The inserts are M8 and you don't have to rip the whole waterproof plug out, you can just drill a small hole to let the m8 bolt through and then waterproof around the bolt depending on what fastening system you are using. I work in the solar industry so I used solar panel alloy L brackets with a rubber pad on the bottom to prevent galvanic corrosion and the sikaflexed around that for added water tightness. Thanks
I found on mine the threaded insert didn't even line up with the rubber grommet. I ended up having to cut some of the roof out just to get the bolt in. Maybe that fixed that issue on the 2020 models
I'm looking to follow this approach on a 2015 jumbo sized transit. So are you suggesting to use an angle bracket instead of a plastic packer to elevate the cross member's above the roof crown ? If so I can't see why it wouldn't work ok and I wonder if you could dispense with the lengthwise rails alltogether and just have independent cross rails , what do you think ?
Another way would be to just have lengthwise rails and use a full span framed.solar panel with the panel aluminium frame attached directly to tje rails. The panel is strong enough on its own to act as a cross member.
Maybe you could just run horizontal bars and not have nose to tail ones too. In my case I wanted to be able to store more than just a solar panel on the roof so I built a whole custom roof rack. The L brackets I used were similar to these: m.alibaba.com/pla_detail.html?mark=google_shopping&biz=pla_wap&keyword=Solar+Bracket+L+Foot&product_id=62582515523&cid=100799&pcate=100799&language=en&pcy=au&device_type=wap&channelType=google¤cy=AUD&src=sem_ggl&from=sem_ggl&cmpgn=12128601587&adgrp=123632326544&fditm=&tgt=pla-298190246337&locintrst=&locphyscl=9071418&mtchtyp=&ntwrk=u&device=m&dvcmdl=&creative=493050466796&plcmnt=&plcmntcat=&p1=&p2=&aceid=&position=&localKeyword=&pla_prdid=62582515523&pla_country=AU&pla_lang=en&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpreJBhDvARIsAF1_BU0GRviudHleMRqmmdc7z6PrBa9i6Y4rRcna8QeieYR79bl4dmpJxZMaAvdtEALw_wcB
The way you you use a big hole at the top and a smaller hole at the bottom is an ideal way to bolt two frames together like bed frames and slats using bolt and nut. Excellent ✅
Hey mate, love the video. Literally exactly what I had in mind for my mates van roof rack. The rubber and window blocks for the mounts are a wicked idea !!! Also just an idea man, for the end of ya square tubing, where it’s open and you can see down the square tube. Go to the bunnings metal fencing isle and they have plastic fence capping (little square/rectangle black plastic plugs) that will fit perfect into the square tubing And also electrical isle at bunnings have blank cap grommets for the holes ya made with step drill bit to get socket into to do up bolt ! To stop it filling up with water! Subscribed & liked mate, wicked video
Yes i did actually put those plug on in anther video, you can see them that here ruclips.net/video/pyBfaQYczW8/видео.html they work and look mint, also now that the rack is painted black.
I have had some experience with pop rivets. I strongly suggest you take them to a buddy that can weld aluminum. Eventually, with use and some flexing and rough road, those will loosen and wear in a bit.
Yes i probably will in the end. This was really a proof of concept and i'm really happy that is turned out well. The same method could also be replaced with riv-nuts which would negate the need to be welded. Pop riveting it together really allowed me to build the whole thing in my yard then it will be. much quicker and simpler process when i want to weld it up as its already constructed.
@@saltyvanventures Yacht masts typically use pop rivets for attaching fittings however we use monel or stainless steel rivets not aluminium, they are pricey but very strong and they wont corrode or work loose. If you use an appropriate size and number for the expected load then the joint will maintain its integrity forever. Rivets allow some degree of flex in a joint which can sometimes be an advantage, aeroplanes are full of them :-) .
@@saltyvanventures You could just "braze" the joints to complement the riveting. Plenty strong enough. Check this out: ruclips.net/video/fKIKsDfRAcs/видео.html
@@saltyvanventures Ah, so that's what you mean by "welding". I thought you were gonna whip out a tig machine or something. Yep, anyone worried about the rivets not being strong enough can just run a bead of that solder along the seams. Your deck planks are holding everything together so I doubt it's necessary in your case.
01/10/24. Super happy I found this video. I haven’t seen anyone else doing such an easy simple DIY rack. Almost finished mine now. So easy! Thank you ❤
Thank you, glad you got some use out of it. I will eventually create a part 2 to this video when I manufacture the ladder and install the solar panels and rooftop decking
Did a aluminium shop the other day and was quite surprised how cheap it was.. kinda thought maybe I can make a roof rack for my Transit? RUclips'd "make your own roof rack for Ford Transit" and bam! Super inspirational definitely doing this up.. thanks man!
Top job! Lite, strong, cheap. And very big!! The only difference I'll be adding when I do my Coaster roof rack is, instead of pop rivets, which do eventually corrode, I'm intending to use stainless self tapping screws to hold everything together. This also helps if anything needs disassembly at some later time, for further innovations and/or fit-outs. Very inspiring. Thanks again for sharing, Mate.
Thanks! I wouldn't say the rivets will corrode. Aluminium will oxide but not to any detrimental condition. But they are not as strong as stainless rivets. Having said that if use stainless and aluminium together you will get galvanic corrosion and the aluminium will start to corrode.
@@saltyvanventures I did it two weeks ago, all with Pop rivets, but I also welded it because I’m a carpenter and it’s going to get lots supplies abuse.
G’day. I just saw your build and as a fitter and turner that I am I must say you have done a bloody great job. Do be careful loading up any rivets running horizontally, there’s only so much load they can take, if you already have do keep an eye on them please. Safe travels buddy don’t over do the payload on any builds you do. Stay safe and live happy. Cheers from Mario.
Thanks mate, appreciate it. Yeah I made sure to engineer it so that there are no vertical loads on the pop rivets as the cross members rest on the side members. I will still endeavor to check the condition of the rivets over time for any play.
Hey Mate, Love your work! We are wanting to make a double-decker roof rack, level one for surfboards, and +- 20cm above that a second layer with a solar panel. Would you have any suggestions on how to joint/go up to the second level with the aluminum structure? Cheers
That looks awesome, thanks for sharing! We really liked how you explained each step 😊 we’re thinking about doing something similar for our promaster build!!! 😁
I know it’s been a while, but I wonder if you had to do something in the middle line to support the weight, as the cross bars are only attached to the sides, thanks.
Glad you’re reunited again! Curious, how the noise of wind the roof rake makes while driving? Great videos, very informative, we,d love to do a van conversion one day.
Very cool. I was a little skeptical of the pop rivets at first, but the beauty of your design is that by securing the 2 rails to the roof you've taken just about all of the load off of the rivets. I have a 07 econoline and since the body has been discontinued, I am having some trouble finding roof rack options. I may go this route. Thanks for the ideas!
We’ve just bought a FT 2016 410L bus, it’s got a wheelchair lift and one passenger seat in the back which will be removed next week. I’m not too sure if there’s airbags all along the sides of the cargo section as it would have been intended as a 12 seater bus originally. There’s a badge above both front seats indicating airbags above the doors so am worried we can’t put in an extended storage shelf which I’ve seen in many conversations. Any words of advise are welcome. For now we will play around with plans and do some weekend test runs with removable gear, mattresses, esky, gasmate etc
I have a Doblo, looking to make some think like this, very low roof rack, reason, to put some king of sound insulation on roof, to stop most of the rain noise, I know it sounds silly, but, make frame, fill with expending foam, trim off when set, cover with some kind of water proof (ish) covering, then screw/bolt on roof, money is really tight, I have to make sure there is a gap between roof and rack, I have turned it into a camper van type veh, I hate the sound of rain on roof,
I am SO glad I found this video! I just scored a 2018 Transit 250 medium roof with 34,600 miles that is crazy clean. We have a like teardrop 6x8 camper we will continue to tow as our very very comfy bedroom. We will not be going full-time in a van - we have a lovely home here in southern Indiana - but long camping filming trips are fun - especially to Utah and Colorado. I am going to add a MaxxAir fan and and a MaxxAir passive vent to the Transit. I did the same to our fiberglass Runaway Camper. I want to make a standing platform out of heavy duty wire pallet wire sections. I saw a fellow make a nice photography platform that way. I think this rack would work for this? Thoughts? Also, I have not yet begun the build or the extensive van-build series for my channel, but will in September - any regrets to anything you did to the Transit? Or tips to make something better that you show in the videos. Thanks.
Hi there! Are you thinking bout attaching the wire pallet over the top of some roof racks for a platform for standing on the roof? I'm not sure how heavy duty they are but weight might become a concern. Make something out of aluminium if possible, as also it won't rust! I'd say the pallets may or may not be painted which may chip from standing on it over time rusting and the dripping rusty water on the van, staining the paint.
@@saltyvanventures I am now going with the heavy duty, but fairly light, plastic pallets. They will be in between the MaxxAir Fan in the front and the MaxxAir passive vent in the back - so the platform will not span the entire roof. The area would be the roof width east/west and about 42-45 inches north/south. So no metal to flake off. The metal and plastic panels have rather heavy weight bearing limits.
As a fabricator welder I would advise that if its strong enough as it is i would not weld it it will pull and twist and warp in all directions with the heat required.
So I made my previous comment before I had watched the whole video. First of all great job! You will not need to weld this. I would not even weld a broken section I would simply drill out any rivets (with the same size drill as originally used) holding in the broken section and replace the necessary parts. Then redo any rivets.
Looks great. Thanks. A few questions, please… 1) I looked up “plastic window shims” on Amazon and couldn’t find anything that looked like what you used as the bases for the roof racks. Can you think of another search term I could use to find those? 2) Did you cit the L angle brackets out of a long piece of L angle material? Or did you buy them as individual pieces of L angles? 3) Are the pop rivets aluminum, steel, or stainless steel? 4) Has the rack and the ladder held up? 5) Is the paint still adhering to the metal? Thanks.🤙🏼
Try searching Plastic SHIM Packing Plates. Yes just but the L brackets from a long piece. Pop rivets are aluminium to prevent galvanic corrosion. Ladder is still rockslide solid as is the paint job.
Thanks for sharing! Nice vid and useful, thorough description. I'm gonna do the same but I might cut out some triangles for corner and joint bracing and rivet them on too, for added peace of mind.
This is so awesome! I've been trying to figure out a solid solar option for my truck camper. How big is your rack overall? How have the rivets held up over time? Great work and and thanks for sharing mate!
I wouldn’t be able to tell you the exact amount as I just measured it up there. If you put two shins on either side on the roof and then lay a flat bar across the two, you will see the gap, this is the inverse of what you need to cut off.
Awesome job bro do u mind sharing the full list of materials you used and sizes pls i have a 170” wheelbase sprinter, also the name of screw to. Attach the aluminum together ty sir
Magic mate Love ya work... Easy to follow and listen to also... We are at the van purchasing stage-pretty exciting....... Q how much do you have to leave to account for the flex of the rack before it hits the roof (when your standing on it)? Cheers
If i were to build it again i may have left extra gap. That can either be done by increasing the height of the plastic shims or making the long side rails taller using a different variation of tubing. I would probably leave about an inch or so
i love your videos! Thanks heaps for what you do.. are you going to do one on the battery set up for the transit? Can't seem to find any info anywhere (especially australia) on whether I need to get someone to dismantle the whole dual battery set up or if I can connect my lithium to that set up via the charge controller! What have you done?
Nice one mate. Shame I can't upload some photos of my alloy transit roof rack on the comments. Im using m6 stainless bolts with spring washers and nylock nuts instead of rivets to connect my pieces together
@@saltyvanventures lol I quit all social media this year except you tube to allow more time off the phone and enjoying my camper conversion! I kept FB messenger though. Send me a msg there if you want: Isaac Mack from Australia. Cheers.
I believe I layed the shims down flat where they would go, then placed the flat aluminum over from one side to the other and measured the gap between the shim and the alloy they cut triangle out.
The software is called sketchup. It's a free 3d design software and is invaluable when designing and building something like this so you can get a real good idea what it will look like and any issues you might encounter.
Awesome, great way to save money and get a roof rack. You could spray it black for sleekness too. I assume this is from before you brought your van in for repair at the ford dealer !
Thank you. Yes I will eventually paint it black for sure. I just wanted to get it up for now to see how it looks. I might even consider getting in powder coated. Yes this was prior to my feud with the Ford Dealership. And after all that i still haven't got the van back yet!
This is genius.. it looks great, is lightweight and customisable. You also made it look so easy! how has it held up with the deck and the solar panels after 12 months?
The great thing about this van is that it has treaded inserts in the roof. If your van has gutters I would probably use roof racks and build on top of them
@@saltyvanventures Thanks for your reply. Ya My van is coaster and has a rounded ricky roof shape so i should use roof rail gutter bracket and copy your idea. Thanks for sharing your idea and talents.
Great! Using plastic window shims as the base is genius! Please tell me how high they need to lift the bar to clear the roof. I'm doing the same thing here. Thanks!
I think the ones i used were 20mm (the thickest I could find). But that was still not enough so i used the 6mm rubber matting to get that extra clearance.
Have any of the roof rack pop rivets come loose with the lateral flex of the van? Does it whistle at highway speed with the cross members being so close to the roof? This looks like a very nice alternative to buying a rack.
Nope, Nothing has come loose at all. I was checking them the other day after having it installed for 3 months now. No whistling at all when on the highway
Its already a super high van but there are no bridges with low clearance that are that low I'm pretty sure. And if there were the stock standard van would have trouble. I have only added about 15cm of height to the roof so very minor. The only problem we have is with underground car parks. But we would have never fit regardless of the additional height added.
Planning on building a van early next year in NZ. Yours are the most helpful videos I've watched on RUclips. At 2:28 are you glueing the wooden frame in place ready for the roof vent to be screwed into?
That's dope! I've been looking forever for a good roof rack build. Did you make the deck yet? No problem with multiple people standing on top of it? Also how did you find cheap aluminum like that? The only price I'm able to hit it 500-700 bucks for the tubing. Good job!
Thanks! No I haven't done the decking on yet, that is on a long list of things still to do. I have walked up on the aluminum cross members and there is a lot of strength in them. I have no doubt the deck can seat at least 2-3 people. I purchased my aluminum from Edcon steel in Sydney. Prices are on their website if you make an account. I found they were way cheaper than other metal shops.
@@saltyvanventures Do you think it would be strong enough to build something like this with? The guys in this other video did theirs with 80/20 and I’m thinking regular aluminium tubing would be way cheaper ruclips.net/video/wRHdZ2CregM/видео.html
Hey there! We are building just the same rack as you guys did! Thank you for the inspiration! 😊 could you tell us the length of the m8 screws for mounting the rack to the van?
Hey guys! We are super happy with the rack although we have the feeling that the fuel we Need increased as of the Lack of aerodynamic. How high is your fuel consumption? :-)
About to copy you! What did you use to cover the holes in the aluminum mounting channels? And what did you use with the M8 bolts to make them water tight? Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery! Thank you!
At the moment it is just some take until i find a plastic cap that fits nicely. You can add some sikaflex around the washer of the bolts to keep them water out. The rubber sheet keeps the water out from the inside.
Yes, just. If you are standing on just one of the cross members, yes it will touch the roof. But with the weight distributed it doesn't. If I were to make it again though I would use slightly thicker plastic spacer.
hey! can u lemme know real quick if that rack was build to your expectations? did you had to change anything or did it hold up properly? going to build this same thing this spring!
Hey. Great Video. I was searching for somth like this. Can you tell me the size of your plastic window shims your‘e using? Cant find any good information in your add. Link. Thank you so much!
How about putting insulation between solar and roof? After watching so many videos, I don’t think roof insulation is that necessary in all places. The gas heater is quite strong for a small space. Summer time the heat will be trapped
Hey! We're currently building our van and just wondering how exactly you cut the packing shims on an angle like that? We don't have a table saw, just a drop saw. Cheers!
With a table saw you can change the angle of the blade. So I adjusted it to the desired angle and fed it through with a fence guide. It might be tricky to do it with a drop saw as holding it in place might be awkward.
Hi fella. Can you confirm the size of your 3 panels as I've bought the same ones but the don't add up to 3.25m long rack you built (even allowing for the rack being slightly longer than the panels). Also, where did you bring the panel cables inside the van? Thx heaps
Hmm thats odd. My 200w panels are 1030x680. So with the renogy panel it is 3134mm. Ive just check the Ebay link with the one I bought but the dimensions they are advertising have since changed since i bought it. That's is strange but thank you for bringing this to my attention so i can change the link to the correct solar panel.
Can I ask a dumb question. Why didn't you place your cross bars so that they sat on top of the mounting points for the longitudinal 50mm sections so that you could use longer bolts to bolt these cross bars through longitudinal sections and into the roof mounting points. Then there wouldn't be a failure point with the rivets. Hope that makes sense :-)
Good questions, for which i don't have an answer. I basically placed the cross members even spaced and then work around the roof vent. It may be possible to do it that way for sure
Nice work around from welding. Just wondering, is it bare aluminium tubing? Or is it anodised or something? Is there any worry with corrosion since the metal is so exposed? I've got a set of old roofracks on my rig, the brackets are good, but the tray looks like a diy job from steel tubing, and it was poorly protected and rusting in a disconcerting way. Trying to decide myself whether to replace it or strip all the old paint, file it back, then repaint it; or just make a new tray like this awesome idea. Keep up the useful vids my guy
It is bare aluminium, which doesn't rust in the first place. It will tarnish but we could have left it like as is no problem. We painted it black for aesthetics with an etch primer and top coat which was a hell of a lot cheaper than getting it powder coated. Looks amazing too as i really make the time to do it correctly.
I cant't say from experience but i have herd the VM model transits (pre 2014) have a tendency to have engine/transmission issues. I myself would be hesitant to but one, but having said that there are a lot around.
What was the point of the additional aluminium rails (not the main framing you made) could you not just put the main frame straight onto the roof, using bigger spacers to compensate for the curve?
It was due to the extra width I get doing it this way. I gain an extra 35 cm from the overhang which is what I needed to fit all the stuff I want to load on the roof.
if you put the main frame directly on the spacers it would be the pop rivets alone carrying the weight upon the cross members. by cantilevering the frame there is no issue.
Well done! One tip. Use a thread lock glue like Loctite. Comes in different tensile strengths. Those M8 bolts will never come loose! 😊
Great point!
Here's a helpful tip. On the late model Transits (mine is a 2020) the height of your cross bars need to be a minimum of 60mm above the factory threaded roof inserts in order to clear the arch in the middle of the roof.
The inserts are M8 and you don't have to rip the whole waterproof plug out, you can just drill a small hole to let the m8 bolt through and then waterproof around the bolt depending on what fastening system you are using.
I work in the solar industry so I used solar panel alloy L brackets with a rubber pad on the bottom to prevent galvanic corrosion and the sikaflexed around that for added water tightness. Thanks
I found on mine the threaded insert didn't even line up with the rubber grommet. I ended up having to cut some of the roof out just to get the bolt in. Maybe that fixed that issue on the 2020 models
I'm looking to follow this approach on a 2015 jumbo sized transit. So are you suggesting to use an angle bracket instead of a plastic packer to elevate the cross member's above the roof crown ? If so I can't see why it wouldn't work ok and I wonder if you could dispense with the lengthwise rails alltogether and just have independent cross rails , what do you think ?
Another way would be to just have lengthwise rails and use a full span framed.solar panel with the panel aluminium frame attached directly to tje rails. The panel is strong enough on its own to act as a cross member.
Maybe you could just run horizontal bars and not have nose to tail ones too. In my case I wanted to be able to store more than just a solar panel on the roof so I built a whole custom roof rack.
The L brackets I used were similar to these:
m.alibaba.com/pla_detail.html?mark=google_shopping&biz=pla_wap&keyword=Solar+Bracket+L+Foot&product_id=62582515523&cid=100799&pcate=100799&language=en&pcy=au&device_type=wap&channelType=google¤cy=AUD&src=sem_ggl&from=sem_ggl&cmpgn=12128601587&adgrp=123632326544&fditm=&tgt=pla-298190246337&locintrst=&locphyscl=9071418&mtchtyp=&ntwrk=u&device=m&dvcmdl=&creative=493050466796&plcmnt=&plcmntcat=&p1=&p2=&aceid=&position=&localKeyword=&pla_prdid=62582515523&pla_country=AU&pla_lang=en&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpreJBhDvARIsAF1_BU0GRviudHleMRqmmdc7z6PrBa9i6Y4rRcna8QeieYR79bl4dmpJxZMaAvdtEALw_wcB
@@zackmack4712 Thanks Zack
You are super thrifty and talented! It’s real nice to have some Australian van builds to watch while converting my transit! Thanks for all the tips!!!
Thanks so much! 😊 Yes i thought it would be great to get some more Australian builders on YT to help the other fellow aussie builders!
The way you you use a big hole at the top and a smaller hole at the bottom is an ideal way to bolt two frames together like bed frames and slats using bolt and nut. Excellent ✅
This video together with the description is so useful and has so much value. Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful!
Hey mate, love the video. Literally exactly what I had in mind for my mates van roof rack. The rubber and window blocks for the mounts are a wicked idea !!!
Also just an idea man,
for the end of ya square tubing, where it’s open and you can see down the square tube. Go to the bunnings metal fencing isle and they have plastic fence capping (little square/rectangle black plastic plugs) that will fit perfect into the square tubing
And also electrical isle at bunnings have blank cap grommets for the holes ya made with step drill bit to get socket into to do up bolt ! To stop it filling up with water!
Subscribed & liked mate, wicked video
Yes i did actually put those plug on in anther video, you can see them that here ruclips.net/video/pyBfaQYczW8/видео.html they work and look mint, also now that the rack is painted black.
Awesome idea using an angled piece of aluminum for brackets. Great work around for welding. Definitely going to try this myself. Nice job man
Glad to help!
@@saltyvanventures hi, are you located in sydney?
Great idea for Truck bed topper
I’m definitely going to try this also! Thanks heaps!
I have had some experience with pop rivets. I strongly suggest you take them to a buddy that can weld aluminum. Eventually, with use and some flexing and rough road, those will loosen and wear in a bit.
Yes i probably will in the end. This was really a proof of concept and i'm really happy that is turned out well. The same method could also be replaced with riv-nuts which would negate the need to be welded. Pop riveting it together really allowed me to build the whole thing in my yard then it will be. much quicker and simpler process when i want to weld it up as its already constructed.
@@saltyvanventures Yacht masts typically use pop rivets for attaching fittings however we use monel or stainless steel rivets not aluminium, they are pricey but very strong and they wont corrode or work loose. If you use an appropriate size and number for the expected load then the joint will maintain its integrity forever. Rivets allow some degree of flex in a joint which can sometimes be an advantage, aeroplanes are full of them :-) .
@@saltyvanventures You could just "braze" the joints to complement the riveting. Plenty strong enough. Check this out: ruclips.net/video/fKIKsDfRAcs/видео.html
you mean like this? ruclips.net/video/XxKxdj4gZPk/видео.html
@@saltyvanventures Ah, so that's what you mean by "welding". I thought you were gonna whip out a tig machine or something. Yep, anyone worried about the rivets not being strong enough can just run a bead of that solder along the seams. Your deck planks are holding everything together so I doubt it's necessary in your case.
So good mate! Nice to see a quality van build content from Australia.
Thanks mate, there is more to come!
Well done job! Out of all the videos we've watched on building our own roof rack yours has been the best. tysm for the video!
Wow, thanks! its always awesome to get feedback like this! Glad you got some use out of it
01/10/24. Super happy I found this video. I haven’t seen anyone else doing such an easy simple DIY rack. Almost finished mine now. So easy! Thank you ❤
Glad I could help! I’ll be dropping a video very soon of a 4 year review of the roof rack and ladder so stay tuned for that!
Good job bro, looks like you checked the box on a lot of items. Easy to do, inexpensive material, and professional finish.
Thank you, glad you got some use out of it. I will eventually create a part 2 to this video when I manufacture the ladder and install the solar panels and rooftop decking
Did a aluminium shop the other day and was quite surprised how cheap it was.. kinda thought maybe I can make a roof rack for my Transit? RUclips'd "make your own roof rack for Ford Transit" and bam! Super inspirational definitely doing this up.. thanks man!
That is awesome! Hope yours turns out great too!
On your video everything looks so easy like you have done it 100s of time. 👍
Top job! Lite, strong, cheap. And very big!!
The only difference I'll be adding when I do my Coaster roof rack is, instead of pop rivets, which do eventually corrode, I'm intending to use stainless self tapping screws to hold everything together. This also helps if anything needs disassembly at some later time, for further innovations and/or fit-outs.
Very inspiring. Thanks again for sharing, Mate.
Thanks! I wouldn't say the rivets will corrode. Aluminium will oxide but not to any detrimental condition. But they are not as strong as stainless rivets. Having said that if use stainless and aluminium together you will get galvanic corrosion and the aluminium will start to corrode.
@@saltyvanventures I've seen old aluminium ladders with the pop rivets falling out because of corrosion. So it can happen. Simple to replace though.
Brilliant! This was exactly what I was looking for.
Thank you for this excellent video, I was going to buy a roof rack but after seeing this video I will be making one as well. Keep up the good work.
Glad it was helpful!
Beautifully done. Will certainly be going in the same direction
Please do!
Very nice and well maid, I will make it in the same style for my truck. Thanks for the tutorial video!!!
Hope yours turns out well too!
@@saltyvanventures I did it two weeks ago, all with Pop rivets, but I also welded it because I’m a carpenter and it’s going to get lots supplies abuse.
G’day. I just saw your build and as a fitter and turner that I am I must say you have done a bloody great job. Do be careful loading up any rivets running horizontally, there’s only so much load they can take, if you already have do keep an eye on them please. Safe travels buddy don’t over do the payload on any builds you do. Stay safe and live happy. Cheers from Mario.
Thanks mate, appreciate it. Yeah I made sure to engineer it so that there are no vertical loads on the pop rivets as the cross members rest on the side members. I will still endeavor to check the condition of the rivets over time for any play.
Hey Mate, Love your work! We are wanting to make a double-decker roof rack, level one for surfboards, and +- 20cm above that a second layer with a solar panel. Would you have any suggestions on how to joint/go up to the second level with the aluminum structure? Cheers
That looks awesome, thanks for sharing! We really liked how you explained each step 😊 we’re thinking about doing something similar for our promaster build!!! 😁
Your very welcome. Yes you will save quite a bit from not buying a commercial version!
I know it’s been a while, but I wonder if you had to do something in the middle line to support the weight, as the cross bars are only attached to the sides, thanks.
Glad you’re reunited again! Curious, how the noise of wind the roof rake makes while driving? Great videos, very informative, we,d love to do a van conversion one day.
Thank you. The noise is really non existent. I've taken it full steam on the highway and barely noticed any difference.
Very cool. I was a little skeptical of the pop rivets at first, but the beauty of your design is that by securing the 2 rails to the roof you've taken just about all of the load off of the rivets. I have a 07 econoline and since the body has been discontinued, I am having some trouble finding roof rack options. I may go this route. Thanks for the ideas!
hope it works out for you!
We’ve just bought a FT 2016 410L bus, it’s got a wheelchair lift and one passenger seat in the back which will be removed next week. I’m not too sure if there’s airbags all along the sides of the cargo section as it would have been intended as a 12 seater bus originally. There’s a badge above both front seats indicating airbags above the doors so am worried we can’t put in an extended storage shelf which I’ve seen in many conversations. Any words of advise are welcome. For now we will play around with plans and do some weekend test runs with removable gear, mattresses, esky, gasmate etc
Nicely done. This will serve as a great stating point. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
I have a Doblo, looking to make some think like this, very low roof rack, reason, to put some king of sound insulation on roof, to stop most of the rain noise, I know it sounds silly, but, make frame, fill with expending foam, trim off when set, cover with some kind of water proof (ish) covering, then screw/bolt on roof, money is really tight, I have to make sure there is a gap between roof and rack, I have turned it into a camper van type veh, I hate the sound of rain on roof,
I am SO glad I found this video! I just scored a 2018 Transit 250 medium roof with 34,600 miles that is crazy clean. We have a like teardrop 6x8 camper we will continue to tow as our very very comfy bedroom. We will not be going full-time in a van - we have a lovely home here in southern Indiana - but long camping filming trips are fun - especially to Utah and Colorado. I am going to add a MaxxAir fan and and a MaxxAir passive vent to the Transit. I did the same to our fiberglass Runaway Camper. I want to make a standing platform out of heavy duty wire pallet wire sections. I saw a fellow make a nice photography platform that way. I think this rack would work for this? Thoughts? Also, I have not yet begun the build or the extensive van-build series for my channel, but will in September - any regrets to anything you did to the Transit? Or tips to make something better that you show in the videos. Thanks.
Hi there! Are you thinking bout attaching the wire pallet over the top of some roof racks for a platform for standing on the roof? I'm not sure how heavy duty they are but weight might become a concern. Make something out of aluminium if possible, as also it won't rust! I'd say the pallets may or may not be painted which may chip from standing on it over time rusting and the dripping rusty water on the van, staining the paint.
@@saltyvanventures I am now going with the heavy duty, but fairly light, plastic pallets. They will be in between the MaxxAir Fan in the front and the MaxxAir passive vent in the back - so the platform will not span the entire roof. The area would be the roof width east/west and about 42-45 inches north/south. So no metal to flake off. The metal and plastic panels have rather heavy weight bearing limits.
Mate you have some awesome skills, great job
Thank you very much!
Looks really good! Thank you for including the price - I was wondering about that.
Happy to help!
I'd love to get more info about the vent installation process, as well as the brand.
Hi i bought a TRA 12 VOLT CARAVAN RV ROOF HATCH which has been amazing so far. Bought it on Ebay.
As a fabricator welder I would advise that if its strong enough as it is i would not weld it it will pull and twist and warp in all directions with the heat required.
So I made my previous comment before I had watched the whole video. First of all great job! You will not need to weld this. I would not even weld a broken section I would simply drill out any rivets (with the same size drill as originally used) holding in the broken section and replace the necessary parts. Then redo any rivets.
Clever stuff - well done! 👍👏
Thank you! Cheers!
Amazing job, looks so good
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice build well done for going for it and making it yourself.
Thank you! Cheers!
This is rad! Great work
Thank you! Cheers!
Building a roof rack on my ford transit tomorrow and you resolved the curvature issue for me - thank you!!
Glad I could be of assistance! I will create another video shortly of installing the deck and solar panels too if it will help you out.
Looks great. Thanks. A few questions, please…
1) I looked up “plastic window shims” on Amazon and couldn’t find anything that looked like what you used as the bases for the roof racks. Can you think of another search term I could use to find those?
2) Did you cit the L angle brackets out of a long piece of L angle material? Or did you buy them as individual pieces of L angles?
3) Are the pop rivets aluminum, steel, or stainless steel?
4) Has the rack and the ladder held up?
5) Is the paint still adhering to the metal?
Thanks.🤙🏼
Try searching Plastic SHIM Packing Plates. Yes just but the L brackets from a long piece. Pop rivets are aluminium to prevent galvanic corrosion. Ladder is still rockslide solid as is the paint job.
@@saltyvanventures Thanks for replying, man!
I’m dropping my van around to you ASAP!
What time is good for you🤣
haha i may be available soon!
Thanks for sharing! Nice vid and useful, thorough description. I'm gonna do the same but I might cut out some triangles for corner and joint bracing and rivet them on too, for added peace of mind.
Thank you! Its been over a year now and we are still very happy with the result!
This is so awesome! I've been trying to figure out a solid solar option for my truck camper. How big is your rack overall? How have the rivets held up over time? Great work and and thanks for sharing mate!
Thanks! from memory i think the rack is 3.3m long and 1.6m wide. Rivets are holding up perfect, no issues at all.
@@saltyvanventures Sweet thanks. Cheers!
Great, helpful video thanks :) Can I ask, how much you cut off the shim? Im trying to work out the correct angle. Thank you
I wouldn’t be able to tell you the exact amount as I just measured it up there. If you put two shins on either side on the roof and then lay a flat bar across the two, you will see the gap, this is the inverse of what you need to cut off.
Awesome job bro do u mind sharing the full list of materials you used and sizes pls i have a 170” wheelbase sprinter, also the name of screw to. Attach the aluminum together ty sir
Hi, the full cut list for materials is in the video description. As for what i used to join, I believe it was 4mm diameter pop rivets, 7mm long.
Iva also got a 170 sprinter, how did you find attaching the ‘rail’ section to the roof?
Did you end up capping the ends with something? Looked like it when I saw it over the weekend. Also did you use etch primer and black spray paint?
Love your work! 💪🏻 Copying this! Thanks for posting 😎
Awesome! Thank you!
stay tuned shortly where ill be posting a video for the roof top side access ladder i have just recently built too.
Magic mate Love ya work... Easy to follow and listen to also... We are at the van purchasing stage-pretty exciting....... Q how much do you have to leave to account for the flex of the rack before it hits the roof (when your standing on it)? Cheers
If i were to build it again i may have left extra gap. That can either be done by increasing the height of the plastic shims or making the long side rails taller using a different variation of tubing. I would probably leave about an inch or so
i love your videos! Thanks heaps for what you do.. are you going to do one on the battery set up for the transit? Can't seem to find any info anywhere (especially australia) on whether I need to get someone to dismantle the whole dual battery set up or if I can connect my lithium to that set up via the charge controller! What have you done?
Lovely video, so informative! Can I ask you how big the pop rivet nuts where?
I can't remember exactly but from memory they must have been around 7mm long and and 3mm thick
@@saltyvanventures Thank you! ♥
Thanks for posting a very informative video!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice one mate. Shame I can't upload some photos of my alloy transit roof rack on the comments. Im using m6 stainless bolts with spring washers and nylock nuts instead of rivets to connect my pieces together
Awesome! Send me a DM on instagram. Id like to see how you did it. @salty_vanventures
@@saltyvanventures lol I quit all social media this year except you tube to allow more time off the phone and enjoying my camper conversion! I kept FB messenger though. Send me a msg there if you want: Isaac Mack from Australia. Cheers.
Nice Job. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
This is fantastic. Seriously. Do you have any updated pictures of it with the deck? Also, have you been able to drive it and test for and rattling?
Thanks, No not yet, it's on the list of things to do. I first want to weld up an aluminium access ladder before i finish the rooftop deck.
Great job. How did you figure out the angle for the shim?
I believe I layed the shims down flat where they would go, then placed the flat aluminum over from one side to the other and measured the gap between the shim and the alloy they cut triangle out.
Great info. Cheers 🍻
Glad it was helpful!
This is awesome. We weren't going to have a roof rack due to cost, but you've sold us on this idea. Did you end up welding it?
Awesome. No haven’t ended up welding it.
Awesome! Going to make my own soon as well but extendable so I can have extra solar panels :)
Interesting. Where you you make
It extendable? Front or sides?
Great video, thanks for sharing.
At 1:48, you show a 3D model of the van. What software did you use for this? Would you recommend it as helpful?
The software is called sketchup. It's a free 3d design software and is invaluable when designing and building something like this so you can get a real good idea what it will look like and any issues you might encounter.
@@saltyvanventures Thanks. I've experimented with it in the past (deck design), so I guess it's time to get back to it. :-)
Very cool! Might have to do something similar on our build :)
You should! Would save you tonne of cash
@@saltyvanventures where did you get your aluminium from?
well done mate...cheers!!!!!
Thanks 👍
My guy, is there a reason you used rectangle instead of square tube for the rails? Just about to order materials for mine! Love your work g 🙏🙏
I wanted a small lip for the solar panels to rest up against. Plus it didn't need to be as wide as the cross members
Great job mate love the no weld aspect of it means anyone can make it cheers
Yes thats the idea! i think it has helped a lot of people with no welders!
Awesome, great way to save money and get a roof rack. You could spray it black for sleekness too. I assume this is from before you brought your van in for repair at the ford dealer !
Thank you. Yes I will eventually paint it black for sure. I just wanted to get it up for now to see how it looks. I might even consider getting in powder coated. Yes this was prior to my feud with the Ford Dealership. And after all that i still haven't got the van back yet!
@@saltyvanventures lol feud. Powder coated for sure!
This is genius.. it looks great, is lightweight and customisable. You also made it look so easy! how has it held up with the deck and the solar panels after 12 months?
It's good, haven't had a problem. Just like new!
@@saltyvanventures awesome! I'm gonna try to do the same thing on my Iveco. Thanks for the vid 👍
Just I found your video today. It's really great and helpful. If your van has a gutter, Would you do the same things or different ideas?
The great thing about this van is that it has treaded inserts in the roof. If your van has gutters I would probably use roof racks and build on top of them
@@saltyvanventures Thanks for your reply. Ya My van is coaster and has a rounded ricky roof shape so i should use roof rail gutter bracket and copy your idea. Thanks for sharing your idea and talents.
Great! Using plastic window shims as the base is genius! Please tell me how high they need to lift the bar to clear the roof. I'm doing the same thing here. Thanks!
I think the ones i used were 20mm (the thickest I could find). But that was still not enough so i used the 6mm rubber matting to get that extra clearance.
Hey! We love this idea for roof racks! Where did you purchase the rubber sheeting and window shims from? Thanks so much!
Thanks. The rubber was from clark rubber and the shims were from Bunnings.
Nice job. Curious how you capped off the holes in the ends of the aluminum?
I haven't yet but you can buy these black plastic end caps that fit perfect.
Have any of the roof rack pop rivets come loose with the lateral flex of the van?
Does it whistle at highway speed with the cross members being so close to the roof?
This looks like a very nice alternative to buying a rack.
Nope, Nothing has come loose at all. I was checking them the other day after having it installed for 3 months now. No whistling at all when on the highway
What about height issues for bridges etc.
Its already a super high van but there are no bridges with low clearance that are that low I'm pretty sure. And if there were the stock standard van would have trouble. I have only added about 15cm of height to the roof so very minor. The only problem we have is with underground car parks. But we would have never fit regardless of the additional height added.
Planning on building a van early next year in NZ. Yours are the most helpful videos I've watched on RUclips.
At 2:28 are you glueing the wooden frame in place ready for the roof vent to be screwed into?
Thank you!. Yes that is exactly what I was doing!
That's dope! I've been looking forever for a good roof rack build. Did you make the deck yet? No problem with multiple people standing on top of it? Also how did you find cheap aluminum like that? The only price I'm able to hit it 500-700 bucks for the tubing. Good job!
Thanks! No I haven't done the decking on yet, that is on a long list of things still to do. I have walked up on the aluminum cross members and there is a lot of strength in them. I have no doubt the deck can seat at least 2-3 people. I purchased my aluminum from Edcon steel in Sydney. Prices are on their website if you make an account. I found they were way cheaper than other metal shops.
I am a new follower of your channel Greetings from Türkiye 😊
Welcome!!
The way u held that rivet gun i suspect youve clamped fingers before
I ordering aluminum now. You used 2.5 cm for the rails and 1.5 for the rack.?
Great idea! How much weight did the rack add to your van?
I estimate about 15kg
Very good video.
Cheers
Looks great! What was the reason you went for different size side members to the cross members?
I wanted a small lip for the solar panels to rest up against. Plus it didn't need to be as wide as the cross members
@@saltyvanventures Do you think it would be strong enough to build something like this with? The guys in this other video did theirs with 80/20 and I’m thinking regular aluminium tubing would be way cheaper ruclips.net/video/wRHdZ2CregM/видео.html
Do the self tapping screws creat moisture access points in the floor? What about driving in rain or creeks, etc? Just wondering!
No I really don’t think so
Hey there! We are building just the same rack as you guys did! Thank you for the inspiration! 😊 could you tell us the length of the m8 screws for mounting the rack to the van?
Hi there, I cant remember 100% although i think it was 50mm or 40mm.
@@saltyvanventures Great, thanks! :-)
Hey guys! We are super happy with the rack although we have the feeling that the fuel we Need increased as of the Lack of aerodynamic. How high is your fuel consumption? :-)
About to copy you! What did you use to cover the holes in the aluminum mounting channels? And what did you use with the M8 bolts to make them water tight? Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery! Thank you!
At the moment it is just some take until i find a plastic cap that fits nicely. You can add some sikaflex around the washer of the bolts to keep them water out. The rubber sheet keeps the water out from the inside.
Great job! Just add more rivets and it will be just fine. IMO
Looking good mate. Keep it up 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Haha that's it! Thank you!
Thanks for the support!
Hello nice video! Thank you! But is there enough space under your aluminium bar to walk on it?
Yes, just. If you are standing on just one of the cross members, yes it will touch the roof. But with the weight distributed it doesn't. If I were to make it again though I would use slightly thicker plastic spacer.
Awesome work! What size rivets did you use for this? Are they aluminum as well or did you use stainless for strength?
From memory they were 4.2mm rivets. I used aluminium although this has been over engineered so the aluminium rivets are more than enough.
what an amazing job!!! i've watched all the videos, inspired me to buy a transit. where did you buy the aluminium from?
I bought all my aluminium in from
Edcon steel. My local metal supplier.
@@saltyvanventures thank you LEGEND
do you have video installing the airfan?
Looks great.. How is it holding up?
Yeh absolutely no issues solid as a rock. I'm going to build a aluminum side ladder for it in the coming weeks.
hey! can u lemme know real quick if that rack was build to your expectations? did you had to change anything or did it hold up properly? going to build this same thing this spring!
Its held up remarkably!
Hey. Great Video. I was searching for somth like this. Can you tell me the size of your plastic window shims your‘e using? Cant find any good information in your add. Link. Thank you so much!
they are 20mm x 100mm x 75mm
@@saltyvanventures thank you. You didnt cut any part of it?
How about putting insulation between solar and roof? After watching so many videos, I don’t think roof insulation is that necessary in all places. The gas heater is quite strong for a small space. Summer time the heat will be trapped
I wouldn’t recommend against it.
That looks great.
thanks!
Hey! We're currently building our van and just wondering how exactly you cut the packing shims on an angle like that? We don't have a table saw, just a drop saw. Cheers!
With a table saw you can change the angle of the blade. So I adjusted it to the desired angle and fed it through with a fence guide. It might be tricky to do it with a drop saw as holding it in place might be awkward.
Hi fella. Can you confirm the size of your 3 panels as I've bought the same ones but the don't add up to 3.25m long rack you built (even allowing for the rack being slightly longer than the panels). Also, where did you bring the panel cables inside the van? Thx heaps
Hmm thats odd. My 200w panels are 1030x680. So with the renogy panel it is 3134mm. Ive just check the Ebay link with the one I bought but the dimensions they are advertising have since changed since i bought it. That's is strange but thank you for bringing this to my attention so i can change the link to the correct solar panel.
Can I ask a dumb question. Why didn't you place your cross bars so that they sat on top of the mounting points for the longitudinal 50mm sections so that you could use longer bolts to bolt these cross bars through longitudinal sections and into the roof mounting points. Then there wouldn't be a failure point with the rivets. Hope that makes sense :-)
Good questions, for which i don't have an answer. I basically placed the cross members even spaced and then work around the roof vent. It may be possible to do it that way for sure
I seen you sellin solar panels...c.mon...Iknow its you!..lol.
I didn’t get paid enough for that ad🤦♂️ 😂
Hello Vendula and Marcel, Awesome Job... I just wanted to know what were the overall dimensions to the roof rack you made.
Hello, It is 3.25m long and 1.67m wide
Nice work around from welding. Just wondering, is it bare aluminium tubing? Or is it anodised or something? Is there any worry with corrosion since the metal is so exposed?
I've got a set of old roofracks on my rig, the brackets are good, but the tray looks like a diy job from steel tubing, and it was poorly protected and rusting in a disconcerting way. Trying to decide myself whether to replace it or strip all the old paint, file it back, then repaint it; or just make a new tray like this awesome idea. Keep up the useful vids my guy
I think better than painting would be to take it somewhere and have it powder coated!
It is bare aluminium, which doesn't rust in the first place. It will tarnish but we could have left it like as is no problem. We painted it black for aesthetics with an etch primer and top coat which was a hell of a lot cheaper than getting it powder coated. Looks amazing too as i really make the time to do it correctly.
Hey bro any recommendations buying a older transit? Say around 2008 285,000kms
I cant't say from experience but i have herd the VM model transits (pre 2014) have a tendency to have engine/transmission issues. I myself would be hesitant to but one, but having said that there are a lot around.
@@saltyvanventures Cheers, appreciate that! Yeah I am seeing alot around with that problem. I'm looking at something a big newer now!
What was the point of the additional aluminium rails (not the main framing you made) could you not just put the main frame straight onto the roof, using bigger spacers to compensate for the curve?
It was due to the extra width I get doing it this way. I gain an extra 35 cm from the overhang which is what I needed to fit all the stuff I want to load on the roof.
@@saltyvanventures ah makes sense!
if you put the main frame directly on the spacers it would be the pop rivets alone carrying the weight upon the cross members. by cantilevering the frame there is no issue.
Hi,
Going to give this a crack only issue is that i have a hiace 2009 with rain water mounts? any suggestions ?
May be somewhat tricker. Might be easier to by cheap gutter racks and retro fit them with this design.
Can you put a link in the description for those plastic shims. I have never seen a shim so big before.
Yes, I have added it now for you