WD40 is not a lubricant it is a water displacer! Just in case anyone is confused about that! I know he said it correctly "run a bunch of WD40 through it AND relube the bearings" but some people might misunderstand him becaus ehe said it really fast! And using WD40 as lubricant is widespread common misconception!
Sorry but not true. It was designed by the aerospace industry to dispel water and provide a very thin lubricating film to prevent rust. Not an effective lube on moving parts but still a lube.
How about a video on timed and modified brushes like we used way back in the day. I never really understood how all the different cut brushes we had back then would change the performance of the motor. 👍
Brake parts cleaner is what i used for cleaning motors, never water broke in anything, but the BPC will remove all water quickly, just relube the bearings because BPC will take everything out including oil. BPC also leaves no residue so plenty safe on all electronics
You shouldn't be using WD-40 to dispel moisture in an electric motor and that is a big part of the problem here. Despite assertions to the contrary, WD-40 IS a lubricant. It is composed mainly of petroleum distillates and hydrocarbons that displace moisture (water displacement) but leave an oily film that reduces rust build up and provides lubrication (exactly the purpose it was designed for in the aerospace industry). Now, the viscosity of that lubricant is so low that it is not effective over time, especially during hard use - but a lubricant none the less. And that thin film can gum up and prevent proper conduction of electricity through the brushes and, under heavy loads and high heat, can turn gummy and attract dirt and dust. So, not an ideal way to dispel moisture in a brushed motor, especially ones with a sealed endbell. You're better off using a non-chlorinated brake cleaner, contact cleaner or electric motor cleaner (even isopropyl alcohol) - these will dispel moisture without leaving a residue. Then a couple of drops of lube and all is well. The worst thing I can say about water break-ind is the potential of misuse that can lead to premature wear and failures. For that reason, I suggest other alternatives for breaking in a motor but any issues with the water break-in method are mainly a result of inexperience and misinformation and are not a result of the method itself.
Back in the days of stock racing I used isopropyl alcohol not water. Edit to add- I also ran it at low power by hand(tx controlled) maybe 40-60 seconds each direction, used comm drops on the brushes to comm, then a drop of oil to each end of can and spun it with my fingers each way a few times.
Yeah that was the trick back in the day with older brushed motors use to work great I'd blow it dry then wd40 it. But I haven't tried it on the newer brushed motors
After doing a short water break in, just enough to fully seat the brushes, you have to disassemble them, clean, relube and reassemble... we did this for commercial slot car racing forever, but newer motors are sealed and not serviceable... reality is, there is not a noticeable difference in wet or dry break in... wet is a faster process and you eliminate the chance of arcing the commutator.... Time spent learning to drive has more payout.
WD40 is not a lubricant it is a water displacer! Just in case anyone is confused about that!
I know he said it correctly "run a bunch of WD40 through it AND relube the bearings" but some people might misunderstand him becaus ehe said it really fast! And using WD40 as lubricant is widespread common misconception!
yep
And you have to relube the bearings becaaaause...it's also a solvent!!! Washes that grease right outta there!
Sorry but not true. It was designed by the aerospace industry to dispel water and provide a very thin lubricating film to prevent rust. Not an effective lube on moving parts but still a lube.
@@jerryvolpini7987 It is a protective film. Calling it a lube is misleading.
@@TheBod76 I'll go with the people who invented it! They make it very clear it IS a lubricant.
gotta love Dj Holmes on the comms!
How about a video on timed and modified brushes like we used way back in the day. I never really understood how all the different cut brushes we had back then would change the performance of the motor. 👍
If I do break in my motors I don’t do water break ins. I just run em on the bench for 5-10 minutes and vary the throttle once in a while
John Holmes: the kid of legend.
You make my day now, that was funny, man 😂😂
Brake parts cleaner is what i used for cleaning motors, never water broke in anything, but the BPC will remove all water quickly, just relube the bearings because BPC will take everything out including oil. BPC also leaves no residue so plenty safe on all electronics
You shouldn't be using WD-40 to dispel moisture in an electric motor and that is a big part of the problem here. Despite assertions to the contrary, WD-40 IS a lubricant. It is composed mainly of petroleum distillates and hydrocarbons that displace moisture (water displacement) but leave an oily film that reduces rust build up and provides lubrication (exactly the purpose it was designed for in the aerospace industry). Now, the viscosity of that lubricant is so low that it is not effective over time, especially during hard use - but a lubricant none the less. And that thin film can gum up and prevent proper conduction of electricity through the brushes and, under heavy loads and high heat, can turn gummy and attract dirt and dust. So, not an ideal way to dispel moisture in a brushed motor, especially ones with a sealed endbell. You're better off using a non-chlorinated brake cleaner, contact cleaner or electric motor cleaner (even isopropyl alcohol) - these will dispel moisture without leaving a residue. Then a couple of drops of lube and all is well. The worst thing I can say about water break-ind is the potential of misuse that can lead to premature wear and failures. For that reason, I suggest other alternatives for breaking in a motor but any issues with the water break-in method are mainly a result of inexperience and misinformation and are not a result of the method itself.
What about a mineral oil break in?
Back in the days of stock racing I used isopropyl alcohol not water.
Edit to add- I also ran it at low power by hand(tx controlled) maybe 40-60 seconds each direction, used comm drops on the brushes to comm, then a drop of oil to each end of can and spun it with my fingers each way a few times.
Yeah that was the trick back in the day with older brushed motors use to work great I'd blow it dry then wd40 it. But I haven't tried it on the newer brushed motors
Watching this,, I wonder how many younger viewers know about comm lathes?
they gonna learn!
Its funny that 20yrs ago this was so common as most motors were rebuildable and expensive!
I so enjoy your antics an knowledge 😂
thank you!
The motor speed controller song. Will that be on the next Holmes Hobbies Band album?
After doing a short water break in, just enough to fully seat the brushes, you have to disassemble them, clean, relube and reassemble... we did this for commercial slot car racing forever, but newer motors are sealed and not serviceable... reality is, there is not a noticeable difference in wet or dry break in... wet is a faster process and you eliminate the chance of arcing the commutator.... Time spent learning to drive has more payout.
😅 DJ Holmes on the decks 😎🤙🏼
Oh that poor motor... 😵
U having too much fun!
hahahahaaa
Who knew motor scratching was a thing! 😂
DJ Spark Spinster, hahhaha
Play that funky music, white boy!
Do as I do and not as I say rofl. Someone told me that was wrong lol.
Actually wears his calculator watch every day. WHAT A NERD😂😂😂
and uses it...
🤣
😂
I've never heard of a water break in 4 electric motor just doesn't make any sense is this real or made up
it's real... we just don't recommend it!
Yeah, it's real. I did it...once. 🤨
Who comes up with this nonsense? 🙄
People a lot more experienced then you.
@@jerryvolpini7987 Well you would not know my experience, don't be so rude its uncalled for and disrespectful🤫
@@MrLunithy I think your comment was uncalled for but point taken 👍
@@jerryvolpini7987 No worries mate thx for a civilized reply.