Joe has that tendency to make everything look so easy. I could see the deflection at the end of the pass on the stainless threading. Well done all the same. 👍
I'd guess the tool post isn't stock and that may be why the traveling rest doesn't meet up with the cutting tool. Project turned out very nice as usual, which is why I don't have a U tube channel. I enjoy your content, thanks for sharing.
For a source of the genuine linen phenolic, try your local motor rewinding shops or places that make and assemble electrical panels. Either that or ask your local scrap yard to keep an eye out for scrapped electrical panels. You might be able to salvage small parts. Yes, Joe has some marvelous ideas and always makes them look easy. Which they are, after 30 years of machining and clock making experience. Regards from Canada's banana belt. 🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊🇦🇺🐨🪃👍
Love your work and channel Mark, Joe Pie was the inspiration for me to spend decent $$$ on a mill and lathe (Hare & Forbes MB51 & AL336D). Now I just have to learn how to use them properly as I'm not a machinist just a hobby turner. Channels like yours are immensely educational for people like me. Thanks mate
First off a mighty loud WELL DONE ! ! on your cast and machined version. It looks spiffy as blazes. Just needs some of your avocado green paint to make it blend right in ! ! A spring pass for that final pass for the fit might have been a better option for nailing the easy running but minimal clearance nut fit. And it might be worth re-setting the phenolic rest for the final pass or two to make up for the wear from the roughing passes? As you found out it takes precious little on these small threads to go from doesn't quite want to run to wobbly loose. I tried fitting the follow rest for my 12x36 lathe and it's a monstrous beast of a thing. I might find a longer item to use it on at some point. But in the meantime did run across a case for needing a Joe Pie style mini item rest. I made do but the rest would have been nicer. Your video is encouraging me to put in a day or so of quality shop time. In my case I'll screw or weld it from some steel stock. But the results will be much the same.
I hit "comment" before watching the final run on the stainless. MHW is right, there was some push away on the last 5 or 6 passes. So resetting the phenolic after the roughing cuts would be worthwhile. And perhaps the solid phenolic isn't the best option for fending off the wear either. There are some wear resistant phenolics. Apparently a recent more resistant type doped up with something called "attapulgite nanofibers" and good ol' carbon fibers is the new leader in dry or oiled wear resistance. No idea what it costs. I do seem to recall seeing some earlier sorts of wear resistant composite phenolics too. I'm thinking too that for steel threading that a brass plate would not be a bad option either.
Top work. Joe Pie is the real deal - often immitated and never bettered. Watching his channel fundamentally altered my approach to machining. This tool you have made is really good, and one any miniature machinist should have. Best wishes. Edit: PS kinda cool having Ralfy up there next to my sticker. He’s a good egg and likes cats. 👍
Another cool video encompassing lots of techniques - as a quick reminder for everyone, for the stuff that's off-camera, parkerizing and powder coating, Mark has a great and helpful series on metal finishing, give em a go on your off time, you will appreciate! From Canada with love, thanks for the kangaroo footage, they are neat odd animals!
G'day Mark, thanks for another lathe project to add to the list. 😀 I noticed the safety troll bait during the casting pour🙄 Please keep the videos coming.
Hi Mark. Cool episode. I enjoy Joe Pi, too. My dad was a "loom fixer" by training, a mechanic who maintained and customized weaving equipment. He used a material brand named Micarta for many parts. I think that was linen phenolic.
A little trick when cutting threads where you can't open the half-nut. Turns out that you can. When you accidentally opened the half-nut and stopped the lathe, if you had taken a look at the threading dial you would have noticed that the dial hadn't rotated much past the mark you used when you set up to cut the thread. The trick is to reverse the rotation of the lathe and when the initial mark comes back up, re-engage the half nut. The work and the lead screw are now re-synchronized. This trick is useful when threading up to a shoulder and the lathe has no spindle brake. Thread to the shoulder and disengage the half nut and cut power to the lathe. Back out the threading tool and reverse the spindle. When that starting mark comes back up, engage the half-nut and back the carriage up as you normally would. The casting you made is very nice.
Looks like a great idea that could be adapted to most any lathe, just out of curiosity wouldn’t a V in your phenolic give more support than the step that you used ? 🤔 !
Yes. It's a trade name. Usually a reddish brown colour, and you can see the layers of linen in a crosscut face. Can be expensive, but there are sources of offcuts or salvage if you know where to look. Speak to your local electrical contractors for tips on where to find some suitable bits.
That linen phenolic would be Paxolin or Tufnol. I cannot remember which is which, one is paper reinforced the other cotton. I recall that Tufnol do a big range of things, but I haven't used it in probably 20 years.
Joe has that tendency to make everything look so easy. I could see the deflection at the end of the pass on the stainless threading. Well done all the same. 👍
Hi Mark Thank you for sharing the follow rest I will find this very useful with small threads. Looking forward to the next build.
I'd guess the tool post isn't stock and that may be why the traveling rest doesn't meet up with the cutting tool.
Project turned out very nice as usual, which is why I don't have a U tube channel.
I enjoy your content, thanks for sharing.
For a source of the genuine linen phenolic, try your local motor rewinding shops or places that make and assemble electrical panels. Either that or ask your local scrap yard to keep an eye out for scrapped electrical panels. You might be able to salvage small parts.
Yes, Joe has some marvelous ideas and always makes them look easy. Which they are, after 30 years of machining and clock making experience.
Regards from Canada's banana belt. 🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊🇦🇺🐨🪃👍
Perhaps the follower is made to match a lantern tool post. Excellent vid. Cheers.
Love your work and channel Mark, Joe Pie was the inspiration for me to spend decent $$$ on a mill and lathe (Hare & Forbes MB51 & AL336D). Now I just have to learn how to use them properly as I'm not a machinist just a hobby turner. Channels like yours are immensely educational for people like me. Thanks mate
Good Show Mate: as per normal. I don't need one of these but it was fun watching you do it.
First off a mighty loud WELL DONE ! ! on your cast and machined version. It looks spiffy as blazes. Just needs some of your avocado green paint to make it blend right in ! !
A spring pass for that final pass for the fit might have been a better option for nailing the easy running but minimal clearance nut fit. And it might be worth re-setting the phenolic rest for the final pass or two to make up for the wear from the roughing passes? As you found out it takes precious little on these small threads to go from doesn't quite want to run to wobbly loose.
I tried fitting the follow rest for my 12x36 lathe and it's a monstrous beast of a thing. I might find a longer item to use it on at some point. But in the meantime did run across a case for needing a Joe Pie style mini item rest. I made do but the rest would have been nicer. Your video is encouraging me to put in a day or so of quality shop time. In my case I'll screw or weld it from some steel stock. But the results will be much the same.
Outstanding. A show by Mark inspied by Joe gives you the best of both.
I hit "comment" before watching the final run on the stainless. MHW is right, there was some push away on the last 5 or 6 passes. So resetting the phenolic after the roughing cuts would be worthwhile. And perhaps the solid phenolic isn't the best option for fending off the wear either. There are some wear resistant phenolics. Apparently a recent more resistant type doped up with something called "attapulgite nanofibers" and good ol' carbon fibers is the new leader in dry or oiled wear resistance. No idea what it costs. I do seem to recall seeing some earlier sorts of wear resistant composite phenolics too.
I'm thinking too that for steel threading that a brass plate would not be a bad option either.
Top work. Joe Pie is the real deal - often immitated and never bettered. Watching his channel fundamentally altered my approach to machining. This tool you have made is really good, and one any miniature machinist should have. Best wishes.
Edit: PS kinda cool having Ralfy up there next to my sticker. He’s a good egg and likes cats. 👍
Another cool video encompassing lots of techniques - as a quick reminder for everyone, for the stuff that's off-camera, parkerizing and powder coating, Mark has a great and helpful series on metal finishing, give em a go on your off time, you will appreciate!
From Canada with love, thanks for the kangaroo footage, they are neat odd animals!
G'day Mark, thanks for another lathe project to add to the list. 😀 I noticed the safety troll bait during the casting pour🙄 Please keep the videos coming.
Hi Mark. Cool episode. I enjoy Joe Pi, too. My dad was a "loom fixer" by training, a mechanic who maintained and customized weaving equipment. He used a material brand named Micarta for many parts. I think that was linen phenolic.
Thanks for the video
looking forward to the upcoming series , I don't have a mill but I'm still very interested
Well done.
Nice video. Cool tool.
A little trick when cutting threads where you can't open the half-nut. Turns out that you can. When you accidentally opened the half-nut and stopped the lathe, if you had taken a look at the threading dial you would have noticed that the dial hadn't rotated much past the mark you used when you set up to cut the thread. The trick is to reverse the rotation of the lathe and when the initial mark comes back up, re-engage the half nut. The work and the lead screw are now re-synchronized.
This trick is useful when threading up to a shoulder and the lathe has no spindle brake. Thread to the shoulder and disengage the half nut and cut power to the lathe. Back out the threading tool and reverse the spindle. When that starting mark comes back up, engage the half-nut and back the carriage up as you normally would.
The casting you made is very nice.
Thanks Mark. Another interesting small project. Can you, please, make a short overview of your steady rest ? is that entirely shop made ?
Looks like a great idea that could be adapted to most any lathe, just out of curiosity wouldn’t a V in your phenolic give more support than the step that you used ? 🤔 !
Is linen phenolic what the older generation call Tuffnoll , great job Mark
Yes. It's a trade name. Usually a reddish brown colour, and you can see the layers of linen in a crosscut face. Can be expensive, but there are sources of offcuts or salvage if you know where to look. Speak to your local electrical contractors for tips on where to find some suitable bits.
Also known as Micarta.
5:12 purely a guess, but if the lathe originally came with a non-quick change toolpost, the tool would have been more to the right.
BTW if you need some genuine linen phenolic, let me know.
That linen phenolic would be Paxolin or Tufnol. I cannot remember which is which, one is paper reinforced the other cotton. I recall that Tufnol do a big range of things, but I haven't used it in probably 20 years.
Could you put endmill in the chuck, and mill a half circle into your phenolic, that way it could hold 180 degrees.
Btw hope you doing well bud💪