Diamond Kote Drip Cap & Flashing Installation Instructions
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- Опубликовано: 3 апр 2014
- In this instructional video, we demonstrate how to install drip cap & flashing, which is the best defense against water penetration and ensures long lasting protection for buildings.
Learn more about our complete Weatherproofing Package designed to complement the Diamond Kote color palette and siding system.bit.ly/2qVkWzv
For complete installation instructions, please refer to our application guide: bit.ly/2OB8v3V
#siding #lpsmartside #flashinginstallation 
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Awesome video, great job, very informative.
Thanks for watching!
very good job
Dozen ways to skin a dango, We would use that window flashing on top if the window prior to the peel and stick being applied.
oh told it was for the msp
How is this flashing sloped correctly? It looks to be at 90 degrees instead of 110-115. What am I missing?
Yes, ideally the flashing should be sloped away from the house. Any flashing can be slightly bent open by hand, prior to installing to create that slope. If you would like to have further conversation we can have a specialist reach out to you. Thank you.
drip cap on top of the trim??? haven't seen it done this way.
how we do is the drip cap needs to go on top of the window on the sheathing and the back needs silicone or caulking. then goes the flashing membrane then on top goes the house wrap. then eventually you trim the window.
“Horizontal trim or bands shall be flashed with a sloped metal Z-flashing to redirect water away from the wall assembly. This can all be found on Page 7 of the LP Trim & Fascia install instructions. www.diamondkoteprefinishing.com/SiteCollectionDocuments/lp_smartside_trim_fascia_installation_instructions_english.pdf
@@diamondkotesiding according to the national building code the window needs the flashing and the membrane should shed over that then the trim.
Hi there! Thanks for the video. Newb here. In addition to the top trim Z flashing you put in here, does the interface between the window and the top trim also need protection?
Yes, it needs protection with the 3/8" gap to allow for drainage.
@@diamondkotesiding Thanks for replying. Would you caulk around the window below the trims too? Or flash top of the window below the trim?
Yes, you will caulk around the windows below the trim and flash the top of the window below the top piece of trim. If you have additional questions, we can help get you in contact with a Diamond Kote Specialist in your area! Just fill out our Contact Us form, choose "Other" and in the comment box let us know you want to be connect with a specialist; diamondkotesiding.com/contact-us/
So, over a screen door, how exactly do I want the drip cap to go?
Drip caps are part of and assembly that provides a water barrier from the structure for openings and breaks in the cladding. Screen doors are usually added onto an existing flashed in door assembly, and have their own integrated drip caps. We suggest that you refer to your installation instructions for the brand of screen door you’re using for sealing against moisture.
essentially, couldn't you just place the drip cap over the wrb and tape over the top of drip cap and wrb to shed water away as another option? that way you wouldn't have to slit and re tape the wrb.
TheWarrior831
By cutting the WRB and slipping the flashing leg under the WRB, this creates a “shingle fashion” installation which is superior at preventing moisture infiltration rather than relying on the adhesive of the tape alone.
What kind of nail gun is that where he’s working on the window flashing? 15 gauge finish?
In this portion of the video we used a 18 Ga. narrow crown stapler only to attach the 1” aluminum drip cap to the wall. Staples should not be used to fasten any of the LP SmartSide products.
He is using a coil nailer. Wrong gun. He should be using a 16 gauge pin nailer with galvanized nails.
Which is better a galvanize flashing, or Aluminum
Aluminum is more corrosion resistant than steel and easier to bend and cut. It is also lighter weight which helps keep production costs lower.
Trying to determine weather the drip cap above windows is done by the window installer or the siding installer? I am assuming the siding installer does this!? I asked the window installer this and I got a vague answer. Does anyone know the answer? I am having new windows installed and siding later. My neighbor had windows installed by the same company and I cannot see any drip cap!?
There isn't a set standard but with new construction it's usually the sider. Some windows have a "built in" integral flashing. If you're having siding done at a later time you can always insist the siding installer applies a drip cap to both areas, if there is not one on the top of the window.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for your reply. That is what I figured, the siding installer would do it. I don't believe it is incorporated into the window itself (drip edge). There are so many products available and so many ways to install. It is a little intimidating to us homeowners who just want to protect our investments.
You're welcome. Glad we could be of assistance to help ease your mind. Please don't hesitate to reach out with any other questions.
How about another question? The window installer has put up aluminum all around the windows. He trimmed it out on existing trim. This means the J channels will have to stick out beyond the aluminum trim when the sider starts the install. Will this be a problem since most installs require or suggest that the J channel be even or recessed with that edge? Thanks again!
Hi Robert- can you email us a photo? marketing@dksiding.com
slicing paper and kickout is the proper way but where is the end dam. we are required to bend/fold the ends up to force a driven rain to the front of the exterior finish
We sometimes bend the ends down to prevent the moisture from getting underneath the drip cap. But if local code requires bending up on the tabs please continue to do this method.
Diamond Kote bending down encourages wind driven rain to run down the caulking line according to Alberta Canada building code
Many contractors don’t do the right way, it’s messed up
How is this correct, You've installed a drip cap and tucked it behind the building paper then hydro sealed the paper to the drip cap. How does water escape now? Surely you would want to slice the corner of the paper at 45 and expose the sheathing, Back sealed the drip cap then install against the sheathing, Hdro flash the drip cap as well, Fold paper over the new drip cap and hydro tape the 45 cuts, The bottom should not be taped off as the whole idea of the drip cap is to shed water,
Your details sound like a very good practice. The purpose of this video is to make sure installers know flashing is required over LP trim, and promote our pre-bent, color matched flashing. Installation details vary widely from manufacture to manufacture for WRB and flashing materials. Taping WRB layers, flaps, etc. helps control two things, provide protection against wind driven rain and also maintain consistency in the air barrier function of the WRB. “Skip taping” allows for moisture to escape if it finds its way behind the WRB. We could have showed skip taping in this video. Always follow the WRB manufacturer’s instructions.
This is incorrect. There should be a drip between the window and the trim on top. The paper should shed over the drip cap the the trim should be installed over that. There should also be no tape over the flashing allowing any condensation to escape.
You have correctly pointed out that window and door units should also have flashing above them. Our series of installation videos are for the specific purpose of explaining proper installation of the Diamond Kote finished LP SmartSide products, these videos may or may not point out, or show all adjacent details in depth. Installation details vary widely from manufacture to manufacture for WRB, flashing materials, doors, and windows. We recommend always following your specific brands instructions.
The way drip cap is installed over windows and doors is doomed. Why isn’t there a kick out? It looks stupid. Vinyl siding with j channel around a window is a joke. I’ve been doing this a long time. A mechanical flash without a kick out is ignorant. Sealant is the only way to ensure that water will not get behind siding. Shluter needs to revolutionize siding like they have tile substrates.
What's a kickout? Do you have an image to link?
Thank you for your comments. We agree with your thought process about kick outs on mechanical flashing. You can see in this newer video we have shown how to add them. ruclips.net/video/swxOyJL7eIY/видео.html Various parts of the country have different local codes requiring unique ways of flashing areas. Some bend tabs up while other locales bend tabs down. Most building science professionals agree that cladding is not waterproof and some moisture is always possible behind the siding. This is why a “shingle fashion” installation with the WRB is important.
@@diamondkotesiding I don't understand the taping over the WRB and the Z flashing. With the shingle fashion of assembly, where will the water go if it gets behind the WRB now that it's been taped in over the flashing. I mean, in roofing shingles aren't getting taped down. So why so much tape on WRB on wall assemblies. I get it with ZIP or sheathing with the WRB integrated in the sheathing surface, but with house wrap, it seems more logical to depend on larger overlaps. If I'm missing something here please correct me. Seems like too much tape on WRB these days. I'm installing some z flashing over trim like this now, but over GP Forcefield sheathing with the integrated WRB, so will have to tape. I'm sure it will work, but probably only as long as the tape does. Interesting stuff.
@@jeffreyserette Taping WRB layers, flaps, etc. helps control two things, provide protection against wind driven rain and also maintain consistency in the air barrier function of the WRB. “Skip taping” allows for moisture to escape if it finds its way behind the WRB. Always follow the WRB manufacturer’s instructions.