I have a a couple of 61 F100s. One is an old builtup in my display case. Long bed big window. The other sits out back. Long bed small window Custom Cab. 428 Cobra Jet. C6 automatic trans. I swapped in a wrecking yard 390 in 1977. Then, 300K+ miles later, I replaced the 390 with the 428CJ. Now that has over 400K miles on it, and it sounds like the pistons are swapping holes. Purty wore out. Needs a rebuild all around. Fresh engine. Fresh trans. Fresh paint in and out. Fresh upholstery. Fresh dash pad. When I bought it in 76, it had a custom tuck & roll dash pad to match the seat. I got the seat redone with Indian blanket material in 79, but I left the dash. Now, both are dying. I was just looking under the hood last night. About 1/4" of Mojave desert on top of the air cleaner. I've been thinking of rebuilding my old one in the display case too. For the resin kit... Many say to wash with Bleche White. It's not Westley's brand anymore. But I recently bought a new squirt bottle on Amazon. Used it on my chopped top 34 pickup. Styrene kits should not have mold release on them anymore. Not for the last 30 years or more. But RESIN kits can be expected to have mold release. I wash them BECORE any bodywork or sanding. Sanding a body that had mold release will spread the mold release into the plastic instead of just on the surface. Styrene bodies, I remove mold parting lines. But unless I do bodywork, add putty, make modifications, etc., I do not sand or prime the whole body. Enamel or Tamiya lacquer on styrene, again, unless bodywork, I do NOT prime because those paints will adhere just fine. I don't like loss of detail due to too much paint. Acrylics are more likely to need primer. For resin I DO prime.
Awesome scores, Link!! Yes, please wear some kind of respirator when sanding resins, they do some nasty things to your lungs, including taking up residence (it settles in your lungs and never leaves) ✌️😊
I've never worked with a resin body. I'm not sure how to properly prep one of them. Never hurts to wear a mask when working with something that creates dust.
@linkpoison5511 if got some reasons you can't get a respirator, a scuff pad and Ajax under running water is a way that I have used, so no dust is created. Throw away that scuff pad afterwards
That's a cool lookin truck, I have zero experience with resin. 🎅🎄👍👍
You and me both!
Thanks for the kind words and joining in! Thats going to be a cool build. Definitely wear a mask when sanding 👍 Have a great weekend!
@BigSkyModelWorkshop Thanks brother, have a great week!!
I haven't built a resin model. You should wear a mask while sanding it though. Good luck it looks to be a good kit. Can't wait to see it finished
Thank you and happy holidays!!
I do not know anything about resin, but the live chat always talks about make sure you wear a mask when working with resin, like Tom said
Thank you, Donnie, I appreciate it!!
I have a a couple of 61 F100s. One is an old builtup in my display case. Long bed big window.
The other sits out back. Long bed small window Custom Cab. 428 Cobra Jet. C6 automatic trans. I swapped in a wrecking yard 390 in 1977. Then, 300K+ miles later, I replaced the 390 with the 428CJ. Now that has over 400K miles on it, and it sounds like the pistons are swapping holes. Purty wore out. Needs a rebuild all around. Fresh engine. Fresh trans. Fresh paint in and out. Fresh upholstery. Fresh dash pad. When I bought it in 76, it had a custom tuck & roll dash pad to match the seat. I got the seat redone with Indian blanket material in 79, but I left the dash. Now, both are dying. I was just looking under the hood last night. About 1/4" of Mojave desert on top of the air cleaner. I've been thinking of rebuilding my old one in the display case too.
For the resin kit...
Many say to wash with Bleche White. It's not Westley's brand anymore. But I recently bought a new squirt bottle on Amazon. Used it on my chopped top 34 pickup. Styrene kits should not have mold release on them anymore. Not for the last 30 years or more. But RESIN kits can be expected to have mold release. I wash them BECORE any bodywork or sanding. Sanding a body that had mold release will spread the mold release into the plastic instead of just on the surface. Styrene bodies, I remove mold parting lines. But unless I do bodywork, add putty, make modifications, etc., I do not sand or prime the whole body. Enamel or Tamiya lacquer on styrene, again, unless bodywork, I do NOT prime because those paints will adhere just fine. I don't like loss of detail due to too much paint. Acrylics are more likely to need primer.
For resin I DO prime.
@dustymojave Very cool, thanks for sharing and happy holidays!!
@@linkpoison5511
🤙👍
Thank you. And happy holidays, whatever that means to you and each of your viewers and followers.
🌲
Cool resin kit. Great questions. Merry Christmas, Link!!!
@DonzTattoozGarage Thanks, Don and Merry Christmas!!
Awesome scores, Link!! Yes, please wear some kind of respirator when sanding resins, they do some nasty things to your lungs, including taking up residence (it settles in your lungs and never leaves) ✌️😊
@@SmallADVentures1973 Thank you, Stephen, I appreciate it!!
Yes, Use A Mask. And Clean Your Resin Model As You Would Your Other Model Kits.
Thank you very much, I appreciate it!!
I've never worked with a resin body. I'm not sure how to properly prep one of them. Never hurts to wear a mask when working with something that creates dust.
Yeah, you are right about the mask!!
Never built one either but it's really freaking COOL 😎
@@papasmodelcarroom8450 Thanks, Rob, I appreciate you stopping by. Happy holidays!!
Link, don't confuse a mask with a respirator. For resin, you want a respirator, with the filters, not like some cheap dust mask.
@@pappytinkers Thank you very much ,I appreciate it!!
@linkpoison5511 if got some reasons you can't get a respirator, a scuff pad and Ajax under running water is a way that I have used, so no dust is created. Throw away that scuff pad afterwards
Definitely wear a mask Link, the resin isn't good to breathe in, 👍⛄🎄
@@ramblers69 Thanks for the info, I appreciate it!!