The glue that's used in many older products seems to have an issue with weeping corrosive solvent out so you get nice corrosion and hard crispy glue instead of the damping/flex it's meant to do
Hi, yes I replaced all 4 caps which solved the issue. The subwoofer worked perfectly after that👍🏼 thanks for watching and hopefully you'll be able to salvage a similar subwoofer too 🤞🏼
Glad I came across this - I gave up on my T3 and think this could be the issue. From where did you source the parts? I'm a novice and will be attempting to repair it myself (from zero knowlege!), cheers
@@kaygeebee9155 Hi again, not sure if you can help me out.. I sourced the parts from eBay and took apart the rear on which the pcb etc. is connected. In order to remove the damaged capacitors and solder on the new ones, I need to remove the PCB from the rear/heat sink and it is here that I’m stuck. The 4 screws won’t budge. Any thoughts on tools that you used? I used the soldering iron to melt the plastic/glue on these screws but they still won’t give way! Any thoughts? PS: The sub I have is actually a T1, but the capacitor leaking issue still applies. Cheers
@@rickysingh9297 hey, sorry to hear about the issue. Would be easier to be able to see the problem to be able to advise. But certain heat syncs are glued on pretty tightly and you can cause more damage trying to remove it. Do you have the option of just clipping the capacitor off from the accessible part of the board perhaps? Not sure how to make contact with you to discuss further? 😕
Did those Panasonics caps works? I have the same unit with the same problem. My unit inside looks identical, even the same roasted caps. It must be in the input stage because the large transformer does vibrate or make any noise. Hum, pop, and low volume only happens when an input is present. I am hoping fix mine myself though I am not qualified. Any info is welcome. Thank you.
Hi. Yes thankfully the replacement capacitor worked a treat. Full bodied sound thereafter👍🏼😊🙏🏼 it was an easy enough fix do worth a try even for a novice like me. Let me know how you get on our if you have any specific questions. Also which part of the world are you in?
@@kaygeebee9155 Thank you for your response. I am in Washington State USA. Please let me know the exact parts and anything else you used. I know these subs are good when working right. It looks like in that burn area there are 6 pieces that are suspect. 2 large ones on the each side of the 4 small ones. Of those 4 small caps one looks smaller than the other 3. which ones did you replace? I was going to take it back to the thrift store I got it from but now with your response there is hope again. Thanks Rusty Robins
@@rustyrobins9393 hey Rusty. Asked for your location in case you were in my area so would have offered to do the fix for you. Nevertheless, for my unit I double checked the replacement parts I needed with Rel directly. Was lucky enough to receive email reply from a Ben Farmer at Rel (support@relsupport.zendesk.com). He gave me the exact specifications for the parts:Capacitors: C204 = 220UF / 25V C205 = 220UF / 25V C201 = 10UF / 50V C203 = 100UF / 25V Resistors: R229 = 2K2 1/8W R230 = 1K 3W MO When you remove yours, I'd suggest double checking what's written/printed on them in case they are different from the above, as the models in Europe run on 240v as opposed to 120v in the USA. Good luck and do let me know how you get on with it 👍🏼🤞🏼🙏🏼😊
@@kaygeebee9155 Thank you so much sir, I will find and order these as soon as I can. Even though I did get my passport renewed I don't think I will be in your area soon. Your offer to fix my unit is wonderful anyway. I believe that 240v or 120v should not matter because transformer converts the power to DC, could be wrong. You must be more than novice to solder those delicate tiny caps.🕵♂ I will definitely let you know how it goes. REL may be getting back to me as well. If so I will ask about 120v, 240v. I hope I get a diagram or schematic to let me know where each cap and resistor goes. Thank again, I am not giving up. I will use the sub to perform with. I perform at some places that are small which this unit would work well. Thank you again. I will be viewing other things on your channel. My web www.rustyrobins.com
I realize now that you gave me the correct placement for components and the numbers on the circuit board. I have all the items ready to order. I still need to make sure the 240v, 120v thing won't change the components. I'm excited to be on my way. Thanks👍
Hi, you wouldn't want to connect this straight to a TV as all it's going to do is amplify the bass. You would need to connect your TV to an AV receiver which will run surround satellite speakers and have a separate subwoofer pre-out channel which you use to connect to the subwoofer. Hope that helps 👍🏼🙏🏼
@@kaygeebee9155 thank you so much for your reply! I just found one REL T3 in the skip, seems a little bit complicated sound system to me. Which speakers are good to go with this rel t3 subwoofer? Kind regards Robert
@@robertfazekas4607 that's a very lucky find, hopefully in working condition, although I don't it disconcerting that someone cost to throw it away, lol. They are very good subwoofers, and can pair with most speaker brands. A good set of bookshelf speakers would go nicely with this subwoofer and the combination would rival some good floorstanding Speakers 👍🏼
@@kaygeebee9155 It is in working order, and came form house clearance Skip, where we work. Thank you for your speaker tips. Which AV would you recommend? Brand, and type name. I have one old Kenwood stereo integrated amplifier KA-1010 It is good? Thank you so much for your time. And help. Kind regards Robert
@@robertfazekas4607 the AV receiver would depend on the power requirements of your surround speakers, and how many surround speakers you plan to run. Newer receivers offer Dolby Atmos channels, but you can pick up good pre-owned deals on older 5.1 or 7.1 channel receivers. Good brands to consider are Denon, Onkyo, Yamaha, Marantz... If you can let me know what surround speakers you plan to get I can maybe give you a specific model to get? Where about are you based?
Without seeing a picture, it's difficult to advise. But Epoxy might be an option to consider if you can apply it nearly enough, it should form a strong bond👍🏼
The glue that's used in many older products seems to have an issue with weeping corrosive solvent out so you get nice corrosion and hard crispy glue instead of the damping/flex it's meant to do
Would love to see it running, and would love to see the kef 3000 range running too
I've gotten rid of both of these unfortunately 😔 next time will try to do a video of them working as well👍🏼🙏🏼
Hi, thank you for the video, did you change the four capacitors? And did that solve the low volume issue?
Hi, yes I replaced all 4 caps which solved the issue. The subwoofer worked perfectly after that👍🏼 thanks for watching and hopefully you'll be able to salvage a similar subwoofer too 🤞🏼
Glad I came across this - I gave up on my T3 and think this could be the issue. From where did you source the parts? I'm a novice and will be attempting to repair it myself (from zero knowlege!), cheers
Ah you're welcome. I managed to find the parts on eBay thankfully. Hopefully you'll be able to get yours working 👍🏼🤞🏼
@@kaygeebee9155 Hi again, not sure if you can help me out.. I sourced the parts from eBay and took apart the rear on which the pcb etc. is connected. In order to remove the damaged capacitors and solder on the new ones, I need to remove the PCB from the rear/heat sink and it is here that I’m stuck. The 4 screws won’t budge. Any thoughts on tools that you used? I used the soldering iron to melt the plastic/glue on these screws but they still won’t give way! Any thoughts? PS: The sub I have is actually a T1, but the capacitor leaking issue still applies. Cheers
@@rickysingh9297 hey, sorry to hear about the issue. Would be easier to be able to see the problem to be able to advise. But certain heat syncs are glued on pretty tightly and you can cause more damage trying to remove it. Do you have the option of just clipping the capacitor off from the accessible part of the board perhaps? Not sure how to make contact with you to discuss further? 😕
Did those Panasonics caps works? I have the same unit with the same problem. My unit inside looks identical, even the same roasted caps. It must be in the input stage because the large transformer does vibrate or make any noise. Hum, pop, and low volume only happens when an input is present. I am hoping fix mine myself though I am not qualified. Any info is welcome. Thank you.
Hi. Yes thankfully the replacement capacitor worked a treat. Full bodied sound thereafter👍🏼😊🙏🏼 it was an easy enough fix do worth a try even for a novice like me. Let me know how you get on our if you have any specific questions. Also which part of the world are you in?
@@kaygeebee9155 Thank you for your response. I am in Washington State USA. Please let me know the exact parts and anything else you used. I know these subs are good when working right. It looks like in that burn area there are 6 pieces that are suspect. 2 large ones on the each side of the 4 small ones. Of those 4 small caps one looks smaller than the other 3. which ones did you replace? I was going to take it back to the thrift store I got it from but now with your response there is hope again. Thanks Rusty Robins
@@rustyrobins9393 hey Rusty. Asked for your location in case you were in my area so would have offered to do the fix for you. Nevertheless, for my unit I double checked the replacement parts I needed with Rel directly. Was lucky enough to receive email reply from a Ben Farmer at Rel (support@relsupport.zendesk.com). He gave me the exact specifications for the parts:Capacitors:
C204 = 220UF / 25V
C205 = 220UF / 25V
C201 = 10UF / 50V
C203 = 100UF / 25V
Resistors:
R229 = 2K2 1/8W
R230 = 1K 3W MO
When you remove yours, I'd suggest double checking what's written/printed on them in case they are different from the above, as the models in Europe run on 240v as opposed to 120v in the USA. Good luck and do let me know how you get on with it 👍🏼🤞🏼🙏🏼😊
@@kaygeebee9155 Thank you so much sir, I will find and order these as soon as I can. Even though I did get my passport renewed I don't think I will be in your area soon. Your offer to fix my unit is wonderful anyway. I believe that 240v or 120v should not matter because transformer converts the power to DC, could be wrong. You must be more than novice to solder those delicate tiny caps.🕵♂ I will definitely let you know how it goes. REL may be getting back to me as well. If so I will ask about 120v, 240v. I hope I get a diagram or schematic to let me know where each cap and resistor goes. Thank again, I am not giving up. I will use the sub to perform with. I perform at some places that are small which this unit would work well. Thank you again. I will be viewing other things on your channel. My web www.rustyrobins.com
I realize now that you gave me the correct placement for components and the numbers on the circuit board. I have all the items ready to order. I still need to make sure the 240v, 120v thing won't change the components. I'm excited to be on my way. Thanks👍
What is the easiest way to connect it to TV??
Hi, you wouldn't want to connect this straight to a TV as all it's going to do is amplify the bass. You would need to connect your TV to an AV receiver which will run surround satellite speakers and have a separate subwoofer pre-out channel which you use to connect to the subwoofer. Hope that helps 👍🏼🙏🏼
@@kaygeebee9155 thank you so much for your reply! I just found one REL T3 in the skip, seems a little bit complicated sound system to me. Which speakers are good to go with this rel t3 subwoofer?
Kind regards Robert
@@robertfazekas4607 that's a very lucky find, hopefully in working condition, although I don't it disconcerting that someone cost to throw it away, lol. They are very good subwoofers, and can pair with most speaker brands. A good set of bookshelf speakers would go nicely with this subwoofer and the combination would rival some good floorstanding Speakers 👍🏼
@@kaygeebee9155 It is in working order, and came form house clearance Skip, where we work. Thank you for your speaker tips. Which AV would you recommend? Brand, and type name.
I have one old
Kenwood stereo integrated amplifier KA-1010
It is good?
Thank you so much for your time. And help.
Kind regards Robert
@@robertfazekas4607 the AV receiver would depend on the power requirements of your surround speakers, and how many surround speakers you plan to run. Newer receivers offer Dolby Atmos channels, but you can pick up good pre-owned deals on older 5.1 or 7.1 channel receivers. Good brands to consider are Denon, Onkyo, Yamaha, Marantz... If you can let me know what surround speakers you plan to get I can maybe give you a specific model to get? Where about are you based?
Anyone know a good way to fix a broken leg? They are pressboard and the broken side separated from the enclosure.
Without seeing a picture, it's difficult to advise. But Epoxy might be an option to consider if you can apply it nearly enough, it should form a strong bond👍🏼
If you need someone to repair I know a electrical engineer who repair kef and rel subs in the uk
Yes please do pass on his details. I actually have a Q acoustics subwoofer amp that needs investigation...