Hey there! I'm glad you found this one useful. We've put in several of these since this video and it gets much easier with time. They hold up well as long as you can get that hole deep enough for the posts!
Nice work and good video explanations. Thanks! A Suggestion : Since Lorrie is into aesthetics and a clean look. Save money on rebar by twisting the hi tensile wire as you did but instead thread a 12 to 18 inch piece of hi tensile wire and thread it thru where the rebar hole was and then twist the wire with each end twisted opposite each other to create a "lock". It looks cleaner and is more cost effective than two 18 or 24 inch pieces of rebar left behind.
You have my attention on this one. I'm trying to picture what you're describing, but can't wrap my head around it. Any chance you have a link that shows what you're talking about? You know, that whole visual learning thing and all.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Here is where I got the idea from. The whole video on corner post bracing is good but at 7 minutes time marker he shows the key and lock method. Hope this helps :) ruclips.net/video/CgWBzlE59NY/видео.html
Good Stuff Folks! After placing your second fence post.......you are now seasoned professionals. I have seen so called pros not do as good a job as you folks! If you put a reflector on the gate....you can shine a flashlight at nite from the front of the property ...to see if you remembered to close the gate! Are gates closed :)
will make 2 suggestions for further main posts (and wood line posts if affording); 6" light gravel at the bottom around the post (maybe a packed 1" below), 4' to 6" sand on top of the gravel (both for drainage) rather than winding the high tensile brace wire with a wind rod (both frustrating and dangerous). use a high tensile winding block, best a double-length (wound crossing between posts) of HT wire tacked loosely top and bottom(wire must be able to pull through). not only easier and safer. but years later the H gets loose you can retighten without rebuilding the fence
we learned over the years, I was old enough to remember 1 corner post going in 25" 15' hedge. only took a stick and a half of dynamite lol. the problem we still needed dirt to tamp. that and still have post lines some are 120 years old
I was only able to buy the 4in diameter treated posts. Could I still use them to make an H brace? I could not find any 6in diameter posts I’m norther Arizona.
I think you should still be ok as long as you keep each stretch of fence a bit shorter (no longer than a few hundred feet at most). You can always add additional bracing in the run if need be. No 6" posts at TSC, huh?
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm I’m only running a stretch no more than 172 feet. I went to cotttonwood TSC Prescott TSC and Flagstaff TSC and they all were sold out of the 6in. Posts.
@@nobueno8652 I think you'll be ok. You can always add a second cross brace if it looks like the uprights are going to have too much pressure on them. Amazing TSC is out of those.
I am currently building a perimeter fence on a 1/2 acre lot with dimensions 127’ by 172’. I am using 8 foot by 6 in treated posts and set the corner posts about 24 inches in the ground. My plan is to build corner h brace fence and I am afraid I may have set the posts below the recommendation of 40 to 50% of the post for h brace. Looking back I should have at least set the posts 3.5 feet to 4 feet into the ground. Also, when I set my corner posts I set them in commercial grade concrete/cement at 24 in. My question is will this affect the way my h brace will hold up? My next step is to set the brace posts and cross bars but I am sort of at a standstill because the more I read into it it looks like I should have set them at 3.5 feet to 4 feet deep. Since it is such a short run I am thinking it might not impact it much. I plan on running 4 strands of 14.5-15 gauge barbless wire and I don’t plan on putting too much tension on it. I would like to get your thoughts on this. Thanks!
I think you'll probably be ok on a short run with 4 strands of wire that thick. A few of our braces were no more than about 2.5' into the ground and they are holding up just fine without cement. Of course, our ground is pretty hard, but again not as much as cement. Considering you've already got these in the ground, I would go for it. You can always add 2 cross braces (one low and one high) if you're concerned the vertical posts will try to push together on you.
@@Rancho5 hello rancho: the treated posts are holding up just fine. My cross bars are 5in diameter x 8 ft treated posts and I braced them with 12.5 gauge high tensile brace wire with a Fence strainer, just make sure the length of the cross bar is flush with the end post and the brace post at a height of 3/4 the posts that you will be bracing with.
We had 6' posts that we were cutting down, so we were right around 5 feet between the uprights. We started out at 4.5 and moved wider as we continued through the project. You can definitely make that wider or a little narrower without any issues, but wider is usually a safer bet.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Copy that. I was going to shoot for 5-ft between my RR ties. Then use a thicker circular post as my H-brace similar to your uprights. Thx. 👍🏼
Hey guys! We went back and forth on what we could use. This was simple and very inexpensive (we actually had the rebar already). Turnbuckles would probably work just fine.
@@gardenofthegeeks8277 I'm not sure really. I know the rebar should hold for quite some time, but turnbuckles come in galvanized versions that resist corrosion far better than these do.
Looks good! I’ve never put one of these in, but I need to add a gate and expand my goat fencing! It’s Very easy to understand from video!
Hey there! I'm glad you found this one useful. We've put in several of these since this video and it gets much easier with time. They hold up well as long as you can get that hole deep enough for the posts!
Nice work and good video explanations. Thanks! A Suggestion : Since Lorrie is into aesthetics and a clean look. Save money on rebar by twisting the hi tensile wire as you did but instead thread a 12 to 18 inch piece of hi tensile wire and thread it thru where the rebar hole was and then twist the wire with each end twisted opposite each other to create a "lock". It looks cleaner and is more cost effective than two 18 or 24 inch pieces of rebar left behind.
You have my attention on this one. I'm trying to picture what you're describing, but can't wrap my head around it. Any chance you have a link that shows what you're talking about? You know, that whole visual learning thing and all.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Here is where I got the idea from. The whole video on corner post bracing is good but at 7 minutes time marker he shows the key and lock method. Hope this helps :) ruclips.net/video/CgWBzlE59NY/видео.html
@@bombdiggitydave3881 Thank you!
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Your welcome! Hope your farm at the edge of nowhere is doing well! And thank you again for posting your fencing info.
Really looks good....that ain't going nowhere.
Hey Richard, thanks. That's what we're counting on!
Good Stuff Folks! After placing your second fence post.......you are now seasoned professionals. I have seen so called pros not do as good a job as you folks! If you put a reflector on the gate....you can shine a flashlight at nite from the front of the property ...to see if you remembered to close the gate! Are gates closed :)
Hey Dan, that's a brilliant suggestion! Would have never thought of that.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm I did it to my gates just last month....thought I would share!
A job well done
Thanks Meyer. Trying to get this wrapped up so we can get trees in the ground!!
First one on the edge of brilliant farm just a half Earth away.
Hey J M. Yeah, it's coming along!
Great job as always and thank you for sharing.
Hey Daniel, thanks for the encouragement!
Edge of Nowhere Farm 👍🏽👊🏽
You guys are going good Mate!
Thanks Kezza, we're trying to push through this!
Twisting those wires is called a Spanish windlass, from the old sailing days.
Kezza, that I did not know. Sounds a lot fancier than what it is!
will make 2 suggestions for further main posts (and wood line posts if affording); 6" light gravel at the bottom around the post (maybe a packed 1" below), 4' to 6" sand on top of the gravel (both for drainage)
rather than winding the high tensile brace wire with a wind rod (both frustrating and dangerous). use a high tensile winding block, best a double-length (wound crossing between posts) of HT wire tacked loosely top and bottom(wire must be able to pull through). not only easier and safer. but years later the H gets loose you can retighten without rebuilding the fence
Michael, those are some GREAT suggestions. We're wrapping this up, but we do have a few more posts to place.
we learned over the years, I was old enough to remember 1 corner post going in 25" 15' hedge. only took a stick and a half of dynamite lol. the problem we still needed dirt to tamp. that and still have post lines some are 120 years old
@@michaelsallee7534 my goodness, that's amazing to get longevity in posts like that!
I was only able to buy the 4in diameter treated posts. Could I still use them to make an H brace? I could not find any 6in diameter posts I’m norther Arizona.
I think you should still be ok as long as you keep each stretch of fence a bit shorter (no longer than a few hundred feet at most). You can always add additional bracing in the run if need be. No 6" posts at TSC, huh?
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm I’m only running a stretch no more than 172 feet. I went to cotttonwood TSC Prescott TSC and Flagstaff TSC and they all were sold out of the 6in. Posts.
@@nobueno8652 I think you'll be ok. You can always add a second cross brace if it looks like the uprights are going to have too much pressure on them. Amazing TSC is out of those.
I would make sure my rebar is not sticking up over my H brace just to keep something or someone from catching on it. Otherwise looks good.
Matthew, that's a great suggestion. We've noticed that's been an issue for us as we work around these!
I am currently building a perimeter fence on a 1/2 acre lot with dimensions 127’ by 172’. I am using 8 foot by 6 in treated posts and set the corner posts about 24 inches in the ground. My plan is to build corner h brace fence and I am afraid I may have set the posts below the recommendation of 40 to 50% of the post for h brace. Looking back I should have at least set the posts 3.5 feet to 4 feet into the ground. Also, when I set my corner posts I set them in commercial grade concrete/cement at 24 in. My question is will this affect the way my h brace will hold up? My next step is to set the brace posts and cross bars but I am sort of at a standstill because the more I read into it it looks like I should have set them at 3.5 feet to 4 feet deep. Since it is such a short run I am thinking it might not impact it much. I plan on running 4 strands of 14.5-15 gauge barbless wire and I don’t plan on putting too much tension on it. I would like to get your thoughts on this. Thanks!
I think you'll probably be ok on a short run with 4 strands of wire that thick. A few of our braces were no more than about 2.5' into the ground and they are holding up just fine without cement. Of course, our ground is pretty hard, but again not as much as cement. Considering you've already got these in the ground, I would go for it. You can always add 2 cross braces (one low and one high) if you're concerned the vertical posts will try to push together on you.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm thanks for your feedback! I might use that tip of using two cross bars instead of one! Thanks!
@@nobueno8652how is the fence holding up I have the same question
@@Rancho5 hello rancho: the treated posts are holding up just fine. My cross bars are 5in diameter x 8 ft treated posts and I braced them with 12.5 gauge high tensile brace wire with a Fence strainer, just make sure the length of the cross bar is flush with the end post and the brace post at a height of 3/4 the posts that you will be bracing with.
@@nobueno8652 so ur fence brace post are buried only 2 feet like mine right?
What's your distance between the posts for the h-brace? thx! great job.
We had 6' posts that we were cutting down, so we were right around 5 feet between the uprights. We started out at 4.5 and moved wider as we continued through the project. You can definitely make that wider or a little narrower without any issues, but wider is usually a safer bet.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Copy that. I was going to shoot for 5-ft between my RR ties. Then use a thicker circular post as my H-brace similar to your uprights. Thx. 👍🏼
Curious as to why the rebar instead of a turnbuckle?
Hey guys! We went back and forth on what we could use. This was simple and very inexpensive (we actually had the rebar already). Turnbuckles would probably work just fine.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm I was curious as to if the rebar was better or stronger.
@@gardenofthegeeks8277 I'm not sure really. I know the rebar should hold for quite some time, but turnbuckles come in galvanized versions that resist corrosion far better than these do.