Just got done watching a couple of your videos. I made a huge move 2200 miles south Mi. To Fl. And decided to make a career change from a mason to A/C. I started my education at a great college over an hr. Away. Long story short I was injured in a car accident hit by an elderly couple setting my life back even farther. Forced to transfer to a local college my education needless to say is going down the drain. I couldn't thank you enough for taking the time to put this out for us to learn. To each there own but Mr. I tell you what you have a way of getting thru my thick skull and I am remembering everything alittle more day by day. You knowlege just help me see the light. I know I will be one hell of a tech for a local company in the years to come. I have a perfect driving record,truck, d. an d. free and getting the knowlege to be able to apply. I thank you for helping me never give up.. sincerley yours, a frind in need.
I've been in this business for over 20 years and I like your videos, but one suggestion would be for the upcoming techs is what to do when you have no wiring schematic due to age or whatever. How to trace wiring to find a problem
Log on to the maker and request for schematics,be sure to have all TDs .Also look around if there's a nearby unit with same specifications that have the wiring diagram.
I installed an EMERSON SURESWITCH Solid State Compressor Contactor Relay with a KS-1 Kickstart HardStart Kit (relay with start capacitor) today.... I couldn't help but noticed that PREVIOUSLY the Compressor motor WAS wired OPPOSITE of whats shown in the installation diagram for the Solidstate Relay. Despite this, everything seems to run fine. Is that ok? Originally the N.O. contact was wired BETWEEN L1.and RUN terminals of the motors. HOWEVER, the Emerson Sureswitch Diagram as shows that they want L2 to be connected to the N.O. Contacts while L1 to Run Windings is ALWAYS ENERGIZED... so that is opposite of how my setup was wired before. EVERYTHING SEEMS TO WORK. i DID NOT TRY FLIPPING THE L1 AND L2 TO SEE IF IT MADE ANY DIFFERENCE. I SUPPOSE SINCE ITS SINGLE PHASE 240VAC POWER IT DOESN'T REALLY MATTER, ITS THE SAME WAVE FORM REGARDLESS IF YOU FLIP L1 AND L2 ... RIGHT??? Most diagrams I have seen suggest the Common side of the motor should be switched with RUN always hot BUT IN MY SETUP, I DIDN'T FOLLOW THE SURESWITCH DIAGRAM, I stuck to the way my setup was wired before. I had the RUN windings wired to the Contact, with COMMON ALWAYS ENERGIZED. THE UNIT RUNS FINE BUT IS THERE ANY REASON WHY I SHOULD HAVE IT THE OTHER WAY AROUND with COMMON BEING ENERGIZED/DE-ENERGIZED? I can only think that its safer the way I have it because the run capacitor is not always energized. However would the frequent switching on and off of power the Run CAP Common Terminal, would that WEAR THE CAP OUT SOONER? DOES IT MATTER IF YOU FLIP THE L1 AND L2 WIRES COMMING IN? and Does it matter if your contactor relay NO Contact is connected to the motor Common or the Run winding side?
WHAT IS THE STANDARD COLOR CODING FOR HVAC COMPRESSOR WIRING TYPICALLY? IS IT MOST OFTEN FOUND THAT THE BLACK WIRE TO THE FAN AND COMPRESSOR MOTOR IS GOING TO THE COMMON TERMINAL? RED WIRE FOR RUN AND YELLOW/ORANGE FOR START WINDING TERMINAL? It would be nice to know, but its probably not wise to guess which is the run and start winding. Also, on compressor motor terminals theres 3 prongs, are they conventionally always in the same placement common on the center, and start run terminal on each side? I KNOW YOU CAN USE AND OHMETER BUT SOMETIMES THE DIFFERENCE IN RESISTANCE IS MINISCULE between the 2 windings. I know the start winding is usually about double the ohms of the run winding. Whats weird is if you're ohming the windings from the wires in the control panel area, you can get false readings if you don't realize the other motor (fan or compressor) is wired together through the common wire. So it can throw off your Resistance measurements. basically the common will goto both motors and through but run windings (fan and compressor) and tie back together at the Contactor Relay.
In my opinion in the AC business, it's a cheep way to get by. That contactor is handling 230 volts AC. If you took a meter set on AC and put one lead on the metal case of the unit and the other lead on one of the power contactors voltage in terminals, you will read 120 volts. Doing the same test to the other terminal with the straight bar, you will read 120 volts. In reality that system has 120 volts AC live to it at all times unless you turn off the breaker it pull the disconnect.
I am confused, the way that system is set up it powers common on the compresser when the contactor pulls in. You would think the contactor would power start on the compresser when it pulls in.
You purposely overlooked the most important part of changing a furnace from heating mode to cooling mode. Some contractors neglect to increase the fan speed for air conditioning even recommending buying a new motor e.g. a single spd. motor when that is not necessary. Breeze Htg./a/c Electrical in Chesterfield, MO. did just that . . . how smart is that???
ok update I figured out and confirmed the how the contactor relay should be wired and this even all was working good with thermostat turning it off and on but suddenly the outdoor unit turned off not sure why I guess I will look at it tomorrow morning. now I am confused totally unless the contactor relay stay open relay not working anymore ??? Is this a bad contactor relay.
Was the contactor pulled in. Also, digital thermostats have a 5 minute delay if you turn it off and on again. Chances are the relay is not bad. Let me know how it turns out.
well the furnace fan was on but the unit was off so I think either breaker or relay couldn't hold on position. I will check it once the rain stops. but I appreciate any more ideas
Question! Does that 24 Volt have any negative or possible position and need to connect to correct side of connector, or we can connect either side of connector, will does not make any difference. Thanks!
Ok I need help I'm a little lost I have a 2 ton u it I have 240 on line side of contractor I have 120 on both side of contractor but compressor doesn't come on the fan come on.. single pole contractor.. also with thermastat off I push contractor in and fan starts and keeps running even after contacted is disengaged. Also compressor ohms are good and cap is good
I would check the secondary side of the control transformer for 24 vac. Without 24 volts, the contactor coil will never energize. Make sure your t-stat is set to cool.
Hi Ron, I understand that you must make a living somehow. With that said, how much information are you willing to put out there free of charge? I enjoy your videos and hope to see more, on every aspect of the HVAC/R industry!
As much as I can. I do make a living at teaching HVAC but there's more than enough information to go around and I offer a structured class that take my students from start to finish.
that's great news for people like me! :D I'm in tech school, and I plan on being the best I can be as an apprentice fresh out of school! thanks for helping.
You have been invited to a @ online meeting! This is an opportunity for you to experience how we conduct our online HVAC training... and best of all it is free! Please join me, on March 27th at 8:00 pm EDT, for Module 1, 2, and 3 review. We will then follow up a few weeks later with metering devices and the refrigeration cycle. All times are EDT time. For the best audio, please call the conference number. See you then, Ron Join the meeting: @?email_id=18&user_id=29&urlpassed=aHR0cHM6Ly9qb2luLm1lL2h2YWN0cmFpbmluZ3NvbHV0aW9ucw%3D%3D&controller=stats&action=analyse&wysija-page=1&wysijap=subscriptions On a computer, use any browser with Flash. Nothing to download. On a phone or tablet, launch the @?email_id=18&user_id=29&urlpassed=aHR0cHM6Ly9qb2luLm1lL2FwcA%3D%3D&controller=stats&action=analyse&wysija-page=1&wysijap=subscriptions and enter meeting code: hvactrainingsolutions Join the audio conference: Dial a phone number and enter access code, or connect via internet. By phone: United States +1.408.418.5040 Access Code 659-092-262#
Hi Tom, The short answer is yes... IF there is a complete circuit. Sometimes the crankcase heater is wired to the L1 and L2 input at the bottom of the contactor. If the temperature control fails, or if there isn't one, that could be the reason. Did the answer your question?
Just got done watching a couple of your videos. I made a huge move 2200 miles south Mi. To Fl. And decided to make a career change from a mason to A/C. I started my education at a great college over an hr. Away. Long story short I was injured in a car accident hit by an elderly couple setting my life back even farther. Forced to transfer to a local college my education needless to say is going down the drain. I couldn't thank you enough for taking the time to put this out for us to learn. To each there own but Mr. I tell you what you have a way of getting thru my thick skull and I am remembering everything alittle more day by day. You knowlege just help me see the light. I know I will be one hell of a tech for a local company in the years to come. I have a perfect driving record,truck, d. an d. free and getting the knowlege to be able to apply. I thank you for helping me never give up.. sincerley yours, a frind in need.
How's it going in HVAC Brett?
Yea goes it going? It's been 6 years.
Awesome video...you did an excellent job of explaining how the contactors are connected to the control board.
Ron makes great HVAC training videos!
I thank you for the valuable informations .God bless you and your family .
Great videos, very straight forward and helpful for new service guys like myself
Another great vid, well explained....Thanks.
Incredibly informative great explanation!
Thank you so much, awesome information.
Beautifully explained you are awesome, thanks a lot. 👍
Thank for your hvac lesson course.
I feel the same as David, thanks Ron every day I enjoy your teaching, to bad I had to wait so long to find you
You're welcome Douglas. I plan on posting at least 50 more videos this year. If there is anything you're interested in learning, let me know.
Ron
Thank you! It's very helpful.
great job !!! thanks for the video.
This was awesome. Thank you.
That was awesome. Thank you
thank you, thank you sr. Great I have an excellent explanation.
Outstanding.
NICE EXPLANATIONS THANK YOU SIR RON WALKER
great information
dam that helped thanks a lot
I AM
7
The straight bar is to allow power to the compressor to keep the oil warm during the winter months when it's not being used.
Excellent!
Thank you so much 👌👌
Thank you
I've been in this business for over 20 years and I like your videos, but one suggestion would be for the upcoming techs is what to do when you have no wiring schematic due to age or whatever. How to trace wiring to find a problem
Search/download from internet?
Log on to the maker and request for schematics,be sure to have all TDs .Also look around if there's a nearby unit with same specifications that have the wiring diagram.
@@hg2. 100% agree!
GOOD VIDEO...SUBSCRIBED
I installed an EMERSON SURESWITCH Solid State Compressor Contactor Relay with a KS-1 Kickstart HardStart Kit (relay with start capacitor) today.... I couldn't help but noticed that PREVIOUSLY the Compressor motor WAS wired OPPOSITE of whats shown in the installation diagram for the Solidstate Relay. Despite this, everything seems to run fine. Is that ok? Originally the N.O. contact was wired BETWEEN L1.and RUN terminals of the motors. HOWEVER, the Emerson Sureswitch Diagram as shows that they want L2 to be connected to the N.O. Contacts while L1 to Run Windings is ALWAYS ENERGIZED... so that is opposite of how my setup was wired before. EVERYTHING SEEMS TO WORK. i DID NOT TRY FLIPPING THE L1 AND L2 TO SEE IF IT MADE ANY DIFFERENCE. I SUPPOSE SINCE ITS SINGLE PHASE 240VAC POWER IT DOESN'T REALLY MATTER, ITS THE SAME WAVE FORM REGARDLESS IF YOU FLIP L1 AND L2 ... RIGHT???
Most diagrams I have seen suggest the Common side of the motor should be switched with RUN always hot BUT IN MY SETUP, I DIDN'T FOLLOW THE SURESWITCH DIAGRAM, I stuck to the way my setup was wired before. I had the RUN windings wired to the Contact, with COMMON ALWAYS ENERGIZED. THE UNIT RUNS FINE BUT IS THERE ANY REASON WHY I SHOULD HAVE IT THE OTHER WAY AROUND with COMMON BEING ENERGIZED/DE-ENERGIZED? I can only think that its safer the way I have it because the run capacitor is not always energized. However would the frequent switching on and off of power the Run CAP Common Terminal, would that WEAR THE CAP OUT SOONER?
DOES IT MATTER IF YOU FLIP THE L1 AND L2 WIRES COMMING IN? and Does it matter if your contactor relay NO Contact is connected to the motor Common or the Run winding side?
WHAT IS THE STANDARD COLOR CODING FOR HVAC COMPRESSOR WIRING TYPICALLY? IS IT MOST OFTEN FOUND THAT THE BLACK WIRE TO THE FAN AND COMPRESSOR MOTOR IS GOING TO THE COMMON TERMINAL? RED WIRE FOR RUN AND YELLOW/ORANGE FOR START WINDING TERMINAL? It would be nice to know, but its probably not wise to guess which is the run and start winding. Also, on compressor motor terminals theres 3 prongs, are they conventionally always in the same placement common on the center, and start run terminal on each side? I KNOW YOU CAN USE AND OHMETER BUT SOMETIMES THE DIFFERENCE IN RESISTANCE IS MINISCULE between the 2 windings. I know the start winding is usually about double the ohms of the run winding.
Whats weird is if you're ohming the windings from the wires in the control panel area, you can get false readings if you don't realize the other motor (fan or compressor) is wired together through the common wire. So it can throw off your Resistance measurements. basically the common will goto both motors and through but run windings (fan and compressor) and tie back together at the Contactor Relay.
nice video! just need to clarify what is the purpose of using a single throw contactor as to a double pole? is there a reason for that?
Robert Munguia singles pole will still have power passing through the unit double pole stops all power until the coil is energized
In my opinion in the AC business, it's a cheep way to get by. That contactor is handling 230 volts AC.
If you took a meter set on AC and put one lead on the metal case of the unit and the other lead on one of the power contactors voltage in terminals, you will read 120 volts. Doing the same test to the other terminal with the straight bar, you will read 120 volts. In reality that system has 120 volts AC live to it at all times unless you turn off the breaker it pull the disconnect.
I am confused, the way that system is set up it powers common on the compresser when the contactor pulls in. You would think the contactor would power start on the compresser when it pulls in.
You purposely overlooked the most important part of changing a furnace from heating mode to cooling mode. Some contractors neglect to increase the fan speed for air conditioning even recommending buying a new motor e.g. a single spd. motor when that is not necessary. Breeze Htg./a/c Electrical in Chesterfield, MO. did just that . . . how smart is that???
Will both sides of the contactor read 24v to ground when power is applied or only one side?
i think the contact puts out 240 volts
ok update I figured out and confirmed the how the contactor relay should be wired and this even all was working good with thermostat turning it off and on but suddenly the outdoor unit turned off not sure why I guess I will look at it tomorrow morning. now I am confused totally unless the contactor relay stay open relay not working anymore ??? Is this a bad contactor relay.
Was the contactor pulled in. Also, digital thermostats have a 5 minute delay if you turn it off and on again. Chances are the relay is not bad.
Let me know how it turns out.
well the furnace fan was on but the unit was off so I think either breaker or relay couldn't hold on position. I will check it once the rain stops. but I appreciate any more ideas
Question!
Does that 24 Volt have any negative or possible position and need to connect to correct side of connector, or we can connect either side of connector,
will does not make any difference.
Thanks!
Any side would work
We test 24 voltage in Vac not Vdc. So, VAC will work any side.
Thanks thats help alot happy face
Ok I need help I'm a little lost
I have a 2 ton u it I have 240 on line side of contractor I have 120 on both side of contractor but compressor doesn't come on the fan come on.. single pole contractor.. also with thermastat off I push contractor in and fan starts and keeps running even after contacted is disengaged. Also compressor ohms are good and cap is good
neutral not coming..
No neutral on 240V lol
Armando Monreal go across, L1 and L2 with meter, you should have 240V,
Hpco or lpco maybe
hi
ive just changed my contactor twice and its not pulling in. ive 240v in but no 24v or 240 out. please help.thanks
check the power suplly
I would check the secondary side of the control transformer for 24 vac. Without 24 volts, the contactor coil will never energize. Make sure your t-stat is set to cool.
Hi Ron, I understand that you must make a living somehow. With that said, how much information are you willing to put out there free of charge? I enjoy your videos and hope to see more, on every aspect of the HVAC/R industry!
As much as I can. I do make a living at teaching HVAC but there's more than enough information to go around and I offer a structured class that take my students from start to finish.
that's great news for people like me! :D I'm in tech school, and I plan on being the best I can be as an apprentice fresh out of school! thanks for helping.
You have been invited to a @ online meeting! This is an opportunity for you to experience how we conduct our online HVAC training... and best of all it is free! Please join me, on March 27th at 8:00 pm EDT, for Module 1, 2, and 3 review. We will then follow up a few weeks later with metering devices and the refrigeration cycle. All times are EDT time. For the best audio, please call the conference number. See you then, Ron Join the meeting: @?email_id=18&user_id=29&urlpassed=aHR0cHM6Ly9qb2luLm1lL2h2YWN0cmFpbmluZ3NvbHV0aW9ucw%3D%3D&controller=stats&action=analyse&wysija-page=1&wysijap=subscriptions On a computer, use any browser with Flash. Nothing to download. On a phone or tablet, launch the @?email_id=18&user_id=29&urlpassed=aHR0cHM6Ly9qb2luLm1lL2FwcA%3D%3D&controller=stats&action=analyse&wysija-page=1&wysijap=subscriptions and enter meeting code: hvactrainingsolutions Join the audio conference: Dial a phone number and enter access code, or connect via internet. By phone: United States +1.408.418.5040 Access Code 659-092-262#
@@RonWalkerHVACTrainingSolutionsThank you so much !!!
What's the model number of this Lennox
How do I become a student?
is it possible to have current going from L1 to L2 , when the contactors are not shut ?
Hi Tom,
The short answer is yes... IF there is a complete circuit. Sometimes the crankcase heater is wired to the L1 and L2 input at the bottom of the contactor. If the temperature control fails, or if there isn't one, that could be the reason.
Did the answer your question?
If the crankcase heater is wired on the L1 and L2 side... yes.
Ron send me an email and let me know when you are coming out with new vids
This is why people hate school. So boring
What's your email? I have a question, I'll pay you for your help.