Not in this case. Most of the time it is spec’d in the manufactures instructions that you do not need bridging on TJI’s. We will however have to bridge the ceiling joists because those are framed out of traditional lumber.
I enjoyed the video. I do have a question about the corner that is lower by about 1/4 of an inch. The PL Premium adhesive will likely compress over time, and the rim joist will conform to the height of the stem wall. Do you foresee that this will create problems? Perhaps I have overlooked something?
Don’t really like those OSB band joists. That material is notorious for splitting when you nail in the edge. How’s it going to reliably hold plate nails never mind subfloor nails. I built a 20’ garage with those same I-joists but I used solid sawn 2x12 plus a 2x strip glued and nailed on top to build it up. I did put a 2x6 strong back on the bottom center line making sure the joists were plumb at that point.
Thanks for the great video! Not sure the exact span you've got there, but did you trim 1 1/4" from each I joist to make space for the rim board? I believe you mentioned cutting them to fit.
If I would have ordered an extra joist that would have been doable. I guess this is how I was taught once and I never thought about changing it. Something I’ll look into for the next one.
RIP Larry Hahn . Thanks for the video great advice .
I’m glad someone caught the Larry Hahn reference!
Great explanations. Simple language and effective.
Thank you!
Were you req'd to add squashblocks or stiffeners for load bearing walls at the i joists?
Looks great! I am curious if you need to put any cross supports with the TGI's given the span you have.
Not in this case. Most of the time it is spec’d in the manufactures instructions that you do not need bridging on TJI’s. We will however have to bridge the ceiling joists because those are framed out of traditional lumber.
Nice video. Thanks. Just subscribed
Thanks for the sub, working on new videos that will be coming soon!
Very good video, it would be even better if you add PL to the hanger when put them on.
I enjoyed the video. I do have a question about the corner that is lower by about 1/4 of an inch. The PL Premium adhesive will likely compress over time, and the rim joist will conform to the height of the stem wall. Do you foresee that this will create problems? Perhaps I have overlooked something?
PL gets real hard!
Lookin good dude!
We’re moving along. I think I’ve got 2-3 videos a week for the next month scheduled for upload 😉
Don’t really like those OSB band joists. That material is notorious for splitting when you nail in the edge. How’s it going to reliably hold plate nails never mind subfloor nails. I built a 20’ garage with those same I-joists but I used solid sawn 2x12 plus a 2x strip glued and nailed on top to build it up. I did put a 2x6 strong back on the bottom center line making sure the joists were plumb at that point.
Thanks for the great video! Not sure the exact span you've got there, but did you trim 1 1/4" from each I joist to make space for the rim board? I believe you mentioned cutting them to fit.
More than likely that was the case! The rim boards on these engineered floor systems are 1-1/4” so that was probably the reason for the cut.
@@TheRealBeardedBuilder Awesome, thanks for your response!
Neath job. Using the joists. What span is the maximum length without a support beam.
I’m not sure off the top of my head. This floor system was spec’d by an engineer. That’s how we do most of our floor systems.
@@TheRealBeardedBuilder ok. Thanks.
Not 100. % sure but I think its 17’.
Terry
something we always do is wrap our plates with housewrap that way the outside you can tie in the housewrap and inside you can tie in the vapor barrier
That’s actually a pretty cool idea. That way you kind of encapsulate the wall cavity! I’d be interested to see how you guys do that!
So if water gets behind the house wrap it gets trapped at the plate?
Stop using that house wrap . It causes mass wood rot, believe it…
What size nails did you use for the hangers?
1-1/2” .148 if we use a gun, 16s if we hand nail.
what did you use for capilary break / sill seal between sill plate and foundation wall?
Foam sill seal and opposing layers sealant.
Informative video. .. I'm a truss designer it's a pleasure if I can help in any case of trusses designing
we are not required to nor recommended to nail into the bottom of the joist hanger. It will cause the floor to squeak in a few months!
Where you short walk meets the long wall, why not put the cut ijoist at 16” centers instead of 4’ for load bearing support for the upper wall
If I would have ordered an extra joist that would have been doable. I guess this is how I was taught once and I never thought about changing it. Something I’ll look into for the next one.