I used a 90 degree cross grain lamination for this but in the future will use a +- 10 degree angle. I don't remember where I got my bag from but you can make custom ones from heavy gauge plastic sheets if need be.
Epoxy does not shrink is permanent and adds no water to wet the wood. I am building a pallet wood guitar and after going through 40 plus good quality pallets my son gets at work I have not found a single piece that will not cup when resawn. The wood is dried to less than 15% but all of it is flat sawn from the heart. So I am thinking of controlling and stabilizing the wood back and sides by laminating. I however will need to press the parts to flatten and your video was very helpful to get me thinking on it. My next dilemma is side bending ... Before or after laminating? Obviously after bending offers the greatest stability but laying up and pressing in that shape seems like a nightmare waiting to happen.
Thanks greg . Did you say that you used a cross grain veneer for 1 ofthe backs or tops .I/ve been laminating my sides and just started on the backs .Have a vacuum pump , but need to buy a bag. I heard abt joe woodworker for bags??
Nice video. Spruce makes a more quiet guitar.? Is that what you're going for . Spruce is usually generally used for tops so it vibrates more. Hardwood on the back allows the sound to get trapped and then pushed through the top, resulting a loud and stronger sound .
In this case it was mostly for crack prevention. I was building an all spruce instrument and did not want the back to crack like tops do sometimes and tops are not subject to the kinds of impact backs are. Don't confuse this intentional lamination for strength with the use of plywood in inexpensive instruments. In that case the core laminations are often poor quality punky wood that is simply taking up space between two pretty veneers.
Laminating is not as uncommon as you might think. I know a few builders who are using carbon fiber sheets as the core and laminating veneers over that with great results.
In this case it was mostly for crack prevention. I was building an all spruce instrument and did not want the back to crack like tops do sometimes and tops are not subject to the kinds of impact backs are. Don't confuse this intentional lamination for strength with the use of plywood in inexpensive instruments. In that case the core laminations are often poor quality punky wood that is simply taking up space between two pretty veneers.
Laminating is not as uncommon as you might think. I know a few builders who are using carbon fiber sheets as the core and laminating veneers over that with great results.
Exactly what i needed. Thanks
I used a 90 degree cross grain lamination for this but in the future will use a +- 10 degree angle. I don't remember where I got my bag from but you can make custom ones from heavy gauge plastic sheets if need be.
Epoxy does not shrink is permanent and adds no water to wet the wood. I am building a pallet wood guitar and after going through 40 plus good quality pallets my son gets at work I have not found a single piece that will not cup when resawn. The wood is dried to less than 15% but all of it is flat sawn from the heart. So I am thinking of controlling and stabilizing the wood back and sides by laminating. I however will need to press the parts to flatten and your video was very helpful to get me thinking on it. My next dilemma is side bending ... Before or after laminating? Obviously after bending offers the greatest stability but laying up and pressing in that shape seems like a nightmare waiting to happen.
Thanks greg . Did you say that you used a cross grain veneer for 1 ofthe backs or tops .I/ve been laminating my sides and just started on the backs .Have a vacuum pump , but need to buy a bag. I heard abt joe woodworker for bags??
Nice video. Spruce makes a more quiet guitar.? Is that what you're going for . Spruce is usually generally used for tops so it vibrates more. Hardwood on the back allows the sound to get trapped and then pushed through the top, resulting a loud and stronger sound .
Cool thanks for the video
In this case it was mostly for crack prevention. I was building an all spruce instrument and did not want the back to crack like tops do sometimes and tops are not subject to the kinds of impact backs are. Don't confuse this intentional lamination for strength with the use of plywood in inexpensive instruments. In that case the core laminations are often poor quality punky wood that is simply taking up space between two pretty veneers.
Hi Greg - I really enjoy your videos. May I ask how thick is that laminated back?
Me too I would also like to know the thickness of the outside laminations.
what is the main objective of laminating back plates?
thanks
What is this red color laminating material??
Just some veneer I had left over from a different project.
Laminating is not as uncommon as you might think. I know a few builders who are using carbon fiber sheets as the core and laminating veneers over that with great results.
In this case it was mostly for crack prevention. I was building an all spruce instrument and did not want the back to crack like tops do sometimes and tops are not subject to the kinds of impact backs are. Don't confuse this intentional lamination for strength with the use of plywood in inexpensive instruments. In that case the core laminations are often poor quality punky wood that is simply taking up space between two pretty veneers.
what is the main objective of laminating back plates?
thanks
Laminating is not as uncommon as you might think. I know a few builders who are using carbon fiber sheets as the core and laminating veneers over that with great results.
Nelsons Guitars j