Thanks a lot for posting your video Joe! I've never even changed a flat tire but after tonight I was able to change both the pads and rotors - quite an accomplishment. Your video says it all, is well edited, and to the point. I couldn't have done it without watching your video.
+John Swanson Wow! What a great feeling to introduce someone to their own awesome capabilities. Keep it up John. It's not just a great money saver, it's a sense of accomplishment. Thanks for watching!
I've done a ton of these. I use a large heavy duty screw driver (shank must go all the way to a backing plate on the butt end), and a 2 lb sledge. You have to hit it pretty hard about 15 times and it always works.
Thanks for this video, now I know what I gotta do this morning on my mdx. I got a good laugh as I saw the screw removal process go from bad to worse! Hope I don't have the same problem, fingers crossed!
Traded it in for a Toyota Highlander. It was a great car but, unfortunately, a valet parking guy left the window down and it rained in and soured the carpet. We never were able to get rid of the smell.
The screws that hold the discs on are NOT Phillips head screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard, JIS, #3 screws. In fact, all the cross-head screws on that car are JIS, not Phillips. JIS have a different slot design than Phillips and if you try Phillips head drivers on JIS screws, you are much more likely to strip the heads. So, a good start for anyone who owns Japanese cars or motorcycles is to go get some JIS screwdrivers, particularly an impact driver for this job, and use the right tool. Vessel makes several excellent drivers that home mechanics should all be able to afford. Fewer stripped screws = happy DIY'ers.
you are amazing ...i have 2002 Acura mdx and i am thinking of changing the whole rear wheel hub assemble as my bearing is bad .please iam asking for a video or recommendation about how to do it .and is there is a way to do it without pressing as i can go to the junk yeard and any part for a cheap price.thank you
Thank you for the kind comment. I have not had to deal with rear bearings yet and I've been out of country for the last 3 years so I probably won't be making a video. I would, however, recommend that you get the OEM shop manual for your car as it will have detailed instructions for you. I paid about $70 for my manual but it may even be available for free online nowadays. Good luck.
I'm doing this project tomorrow. My Audi also had those annoying rotor screws. Did you end up keeping the screws in on the opposite side? I plan on bypassing all the cursing and frustration and drilling them out and leaving them out.
I'm sorry I didn't mention it in the video, I'm not sure what size bit I used but it looks like a 3/16". Needs to be bigger than the screw's shaft. Good luck with it.
+Reamz Type-S I guess you could do that. I just assumed that the heat and friction from the normal usage would burn off any light grease that got on the brakes. I never noticed a performance problem. I've never used brake cleaner. I assume it would be good if there was heavy grease or grime on the brakes.
there are several "little" things that one should do that are omitted here. The basic instructions are good. Yes, its a good idea to clean them as most of them are treated with oil to keep from rusting. I found that the autozone rotors like he bought are actually coated with a thin layer of something that just rubs off the first time the brakes are applied. This seems to be their "protective layer" so it was probably not necessary with those specific rotors. A few things that would be good to do that were omitted are: check the caliper pins to see if it could use new silicone lubrication; push the caliper piston in with the old pads so as to not damage the new pad with point load pressure; and rub a little copper based anti seize lubricant at the contact points of the new brake pads (contact point meaning where it touches the pad clips not the brake surface obviously). Among other things.
That is so frustrating when you replace a part and it doesn't fix the problem. You will probably want to google how to reset the error codes and see if a reset gets rid of it. If not, google the 401 code and see what others are saying about possible solutions.
Hey, its funny I had the same issue with the two screws. I used a heat treated torx, hammered it and pulled the crap out. BTW, I had to do this on all 4 wheels.
I know those rotor screws are such a pain in the butt. A little bit of heat should've helped but normally when I use the impact screwdriver like you bought that normally does the trick without stripping them out. If you do have to drill them out like you did, I don't think you need the screws to hold the rotor on when everything goes back together. Should be OK without them. Good video with good information on what it really takes to change the brakes. It's not always easy.
Good video. you seem like a nice guy si I just want to warn you (as you've probably heard 1000 times from viewer comments on this video) to wear some shoes in any future projects you do. Preferable steel toes, especially if you're going to only use jack and no jack stand.
Excellent advice. I'm not crazy about shoes when I'm living in Florida but I will try to make sure I wear them in all future projects. Thank you for your concern and thanks for watching.
Really dude. No safety shoes. Freaking flip flops, we'll give you some slack on the eye protection since you've got prescription or reading and no gloves to protect you from horrendously deadly carcinogens in the grease, brake fluid, road tar, plastics, etc.. I'm calling OSHA on you! Beeotch!! Just ribbing you, nice job, except maybe the copper washers on the brake fluid line.
Thanks for the comment. You have a good point about the personal protective equipment. It's just so hot in Florida that I don't always think to put on more stuff. I have used mechanics gloves but they tend to get holes in them quickly. I have worn glasses as opposed to contacts or lasik for years for this very reason. I always have something over my eyes. Happy Motoring!
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HiCxoDeo0hc/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks a lot for posting your video Joe! I've never even changed a flat tire but after tonight I was able to change both the pads and rotors - quite an accomplishment. Your video says it all, is well edited, and to the point. I couldn't have done it without watching your video.
+John Swanson Wow! What a great feeling to introduce someone to their own awesome capabilities. Keep it up John. It's not just a great money saver, it's a sense of accomplishment. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for showing different methods/ techniques to remove rotor screws
That rotor almost got the best of me but I was able to keep at it until I won the battle. I hope yours came off easier than that. All the best.
thanks joe! i watch all your mdx videos for my maintenance i changed the rotors and did the cabin air filter thanks to you man
You made my day. Good work on the car. Keep it up and happy motoring!
I've done a ton of these. I use a large heavy duty screw driver (shank must go all the way to a backing plate on the butt end), and a 2 lb sledge. You have to hit it pretty hard about 15 times and it always works.
This is wonderful. Thank you for posting this tutorial. I'm confident that I can now do this to my MDX this weekend.
+David Reyes I'm sure you can do it, David. Good luck with it. Be safe.
Thanks for this video, now I know what I gotta do this morning on my mdx. I got a good laugh as I saw the screw removal process go from bad to worse! Hope I don't have the same problem, fingers crossed!
Hope it went well for you. Yeah that screw was a tough one.
Thank thank you Joe you simplify it and you make me want to work on my own car you're so helpful
You'll really be excited when you see how much money you save. Good luck with it.
Love these older mdx’s!! Great cars. Do you still have it?
Traded it in for a Toyota Highlander. It was a great car but, unfortunately, a valet parking guy left the window down and it rained in and soured the carpet. We never were able to get rid of the smell.
The screws that hold the discs on are NOT Phillips head screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard, JIS, #3 screws. In fact, all the cross-head screws on that car are JIS, not Phillips. JIS have a different slot design than Phillips and if you try Phillips head drivers on JIS screws, you are much more likely to strip the heads. So, a good start for anyone who owns Japanese cars or motorcycles is to go get some JIS screwdrivers, particularly an impact driver for this job, and use the right tool. Vessel makes several excellent drivers that home mechanics should all be able to afford. Fewer stripped screws = happy DIY'ers.
Thank you for that very useful comment. Guys like you make the RUclips community awesome. Happy Motoring!
@@FloridaJoe3 Aw shucks.
Wish I knew that before I replaced mine. What a pain in the ass, I had to drill them out after I stripped them! 🤦♂️
Glad I looked up a video for this first. Those screws are a PITA to get out. Thanks to the informative video, and this comment I’m prepared now.
you are amazing ...i have 2002 Acura mdx and i am thinking of changing the whole rear wheel hub assemble as my bearing is bad .please iam asking for a video or recommendation about how to do it .and is there is a way to do it without pressing as i can go to the junk yeard and any part for a cheap price.thank you
Thank you for the kind comment. I have not had to deal with rear bearings yet and I've been out of country for the last 3 years so I probably won't be making a video. I would, however, recommend that you get the OEM shop manual for your car as it will have detailed instructions for you. I paid about $70 for my manual but it may even be available for free online nowadays. Good luck.
thanks man. this video was explained well enough i think i can do it myself. saved me some money and that is always good.
Glad to hear it. Thanks for the comment and good luck with your repair!
My screws are rusted stuck also.. Terrible design to use Philips screws. Drilling them out is OK?
Yes, I think I had to drill them out. It's not fun but it will work and you don't have to replace them.
Nicely done Joe
Thanks
Thanks for the kind comment. Happy motoring!
I'm doing this project tomorrow. My Audi also had those annoying rotor screws. Did you end up keeping the screws in on the opposite side? I plan on bypassing all the cursing and frustration and drilling them out and leaving them out.
I think that I left them out. I couldn't see how it would hurt anything to leave them out. I hope your repair went well. Happy Motoring!
Joe, what size drill bit did you use on the screw?
I'm sorry I didn't mention it in the video, I'm not sure what size bit I used but it looks like a 3/16". Needs to be bigger than the screw's shaft. Good luck with it.
during this process I thought you'd to wipe the new rotors with break cleaner before you install them or it doesn't matter?
+Reamz Type-S I guess you could do that. I just assumed that the heat and friction from the normal usage would burn off any light grease that got on the brakes. I never noticed a performance problem. I've never used brake cleaner. I assume it would be good if there was heavy grease or grime on the brakes.
there are several "little" things that one should do that are omitted here. The basic instructions are good. Yes, its a good idea to clean them as most of them are treated with oil to keep from rusting. I found that the autozone rotors like he bought are actually coated with a thin layer of something that just rubs off the first time the brakes are applied. This seems to be their "protective layer" so it was probably not necessary with those specific rotors. A few things that would be good to do that were omitted are: check the caliper pins to see if it could use new silicone lubrication; push the caliper piston in with the old pads so as to not damage the new pad with point load pressure; and rub a little copper based anti seize lubricant at the contact points of the new brake pads (contact point meaning where it touches the pad clips not the brake surface obviously). Among other things.
Awesome instruction
Thank you for the kind comment.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Great Video....Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Thank you for the kind comment. Happy motoring!
thank you, it is very helpful !!!
You're welcome. Thank you for watching!
I'm getting the 401 error code which is egr insufficient flow and I just replaced it and its still gives me the code any tips
That is so frustrating when you replace a part and it doesn't fix the problem. You will probably want to google how to reset the error codes and see if a reset gets rid of it. If not, google the 401 code and see what others are saying about possible solutions.
Hi how can u tell if your wheel or rim on mdx is straight or curved?
I believe the shop can measure that for you. You also can hear or feel it while driving quite often.
Hey, its funny I had the same issue with the two screws. I used a heat treated torx, hammered it and pulled the crap out. BTW, I had to do this on all 4 wheels.
+CRM6718 Ow! That sounds like a long day. Thanks for sharing your experience.
I know those rotor screws are such a pain in the butt. A little bit of heat should've helped but normally when I use the impact screwdriver like you bought that normally does the trick without stripping them out. If you do have to drill them out like you did, I don't think you need the screws to hold the rotor on when everything goes back together. Should be OK without them. Good video with good information on what it really takes to change the brakes. It's not always easy.
+Tom Lenza Thank you for watching and for the helpful comments. Happy motoring!
Thank you.
You're welcome! Happy Motoring!
Don’t you love those rotor screws
Um, no...no, I don't. I hope you had better luck than I did.
clips instalation needed !!!!!
Good video. you seem like a nice guy si I just want to warn you (as you've probably heard 1000 times from viewer comments on this video) to wear some shoes in any future projects you do. Preferable steel toes, especially if you're going to only use jack and no jack stand.
Excellent advice. I'm not crazy about shoes when I'm living in Florida but I will try to make sure I wear them in all future projects. Thank you for your concern and thanks for watching.
LOOKS LIKE A 19 CUS WORD JOB IF THE ROTOR SCREWS GIVE YOU CRAP.
IN MY OPINION THE SCREWS ARE UNNECESSARY
REAL INFORMATIVE VID. THANKS.
It is frustrating if you're in a hurry but, as seen in the video, there is always a way out. You just have to persevere. Good luck!
Really dude. No safety shoes. Freaking flip flops, we'll give you some slack on the eye protection since you've got prescription or reading and no gloves to protect you from horrendously deadly carcinogens in the grease, brake fluid, road tar, plastics, etc.. I'm calling OSHA on you! Beeotch!! Just ribbing you, nice job, except maybe the copper washers on the brake fluid line.
Thanks for the comment. You have a good point about the personal protective equipment. It's just so hot in Florida that I don't always think to put on more stuff. I have used mechanics gloves but they tend to get holes in them quickly. I have worn glasses as opposed to contacts or lasik for years for this very reason. I always have something over my eyes. Happy Motoring!
If he can do it in flip flops, that gives me confidence to try it with work boots.