This is the first video I’ve ever seen anyone replacing a two prong transfer case actuator - without taking it completely apart, and putting it back together upside down in the truck. Well done.
Thank you for the feedback! I looked all over the Internet for something like this, and cannot find anything so I figured I might as well try it because I was not planning on taking out my transfer case. I think the most important part is to snug the three bolts down evenly and listen for the binding, which is actually a good sound because the gears are messing together. Once it’s fully seeded, it worked great. Unfortunately, I had to try four different used actuators before I found one that both the center diff lock and Foral Drive motors worked. I actually swapped out the center diff lock on the last one I installed because it was acting so strange. thanks again and hopefully this video helps others tackle this job with confidence
Good video the only thing that bugged me was referring to 4lo as 4wd. Im sure you know the difference but to some viewers they may think 4lo is true 4wd but its not its basically low range awd. Must lock the center diff to be in 4wd
Thanks for posting this. I have an '03 V8/AWD and 4Lo has never worked since I've had it (about 7 years) but CDL did until just recently. I put it on the other day and it wouldn't go , then it wouldn't turn off until I put in reverse and backed up a bit and braked hard. Haven't tried it since.
How can I have you appreciate the extent of my gratitude for your posting this video? I'd have to bore you with the details of my background. I will try to summarize. I bought a brand new 2003 4runner v6 Limited. We ski. The thing is a beast in heavy snow without me ever having to shift into 4lo. Then one summer I try to shift into 4lo and it isnt having it. It goes from 2 wheel to 4 hi no issues but it beeps and blinks when I try 4lo. I took it to 5 independent shops and paid their diagnostic fee and they were clueless. Next, I take it to the dealer. Big mistake. I let them diagnose it. They give it back to me and almost every light on the dashboard is now blinking on and off AND they tell me it is now stuck in 4lo and I cant drive it so I have to leave it. I test it and determine it is stuck but its in 4 hi which toyota tells me is like all wheel drive so its ok to drive on dry pavement. The dealer wants me to let them replace the transmission! I say NO you broke my vehicle and now if I let you replace the transmission I doubt it will ever be the same. I say (I was in no position to afford a new 4runner so here I lied) I will tell you what, I will pick out a new 4runner on your lot, how much will you give me for mine? They tell me nothing because its broke first you have to fix it. I tell them but you broke it. The manager says but it was ready to go you could have driven it off the lot and it would have broke. I say but now we will never know. I tell the manager Ive never had a situation like this I guess the BBB and the state consumer protection dept come to mind. The manager literally laughed in my face saying see where that gets you going thru small claims court. So this began a months long effort on my part to understand whats going on and to get them to take responsibility for it. When I find google references to others in my position that hadnt used their 4lo in a long time I get the actuator froze up and needs to be replaced. When I relay this to them they tell meif you take the actuator off you HAVE to remove the transfer case which is such a big job that you may as well remove the entire transmission. Thank God I didnt bite. Several years have gone by. I havent been too keen on doing the job myself because of the videos other posted, it seemed complicated. Your video is pretty much idiot proof, great video, great audio, precise details and every detail. I am finally ready to do the job myself. I am truly thankful and greatful. I love this vehicle but dont have a mechanic I can trust and have been driving it infrequently because it is like half the vehicle it once was. In closing, do you have any info to share regarding replacing the rear window regulator and sub assembly? One arm rusted through (I learned my brand new 4runner came from the factory with a bottom window molding that had a small gap that let water inside). but the window is supported by the other arm and so its closed I just cant raise or lower it. Thanks again. Sincerely, Pete
My 2005 4Runner got stuck in 4WD low the other day and I'm still in the process of trying to fix it myself. But no luck so far. Your videos have been most helpful. It feels like it is in low range but not 4WD (if that is possible). Cheapest price I have found to get actuator replaced was $3K. One place wanted $5K and said they would have to pull transfer case and transmission (at least they didn't have to pull the engine lol). I might try to replace myself but the "clocking" process is daunting. So I would be ok just getting it out of 4WD low and never using 4WD low again. Is there a way to force it out of 4WD low and still be able to use 4WD high on demand? Or even getting it out of 4wD low and never using 4WD again?
I do not know if your Toyota has two rods or one rod, but either way you can remove the actuator and pull the rod out and it should release the four-wheel-drive. If you push the rod all the way in it should put it back into four-wheel-drive.
So i have a customer with an 06 4runner v8, transfer case ran dry due to leaky actuator and then started grinding and skipping. Customer purchased new toyota transfer case and new toyota actuator. Old t case and actuator is already out of the car in one piece. How do i install the new one? Do i just bolt up the new t case and pop the new actuator on like you did? Or do i need to tear into the t case like many other people suggest?
I would recommend buying the Aisin brand actuator with the shafts already installed and do it the correct way by installing it while the transfer case is removed. This video is just a shortcut so you do not have to remove the transfer case but it definitely is not the correct way to do this job. The best way to do it is by removing the transfer case. since you already have the transfer case out, it will be a much easier job
When you pull out the upper rod that engages 4lo and then put it in park to put the actuator back on. Would it not be in 4lo already? Or is it fine just putting in 4lo once you have put the bolts back in to get it to engage? Did you get any codes or was it all fine? Also, can you unlock and lock 4lo with the actuator off from the cab? Or can you only do manually by pulling out the rod with the actuator off? I am planning on taking mine off to fix a leak, the actuator works fine and trying to avoid taking the TC off. thanks!
Here is a better video link. Keep both rods fully forward and it may help to keep the vehicle in neutral. Rock the new actuator on . Don’t damage the seals 4Runner Aisin SAT-003 4WD Actuator Replacement Full Video 36410-60093 ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.html
Gonna do this on my GX470 it only has one rod currently need to remove mine but I planned to remove the actuator and assure that it is unlocked, plug the new one in do a test run lock and unlock then leave it in the unlocked position unplug and reinstall. I just changed the airbags myself so I’m sure I’m capable of this.
If I purchase an eBay actuator will I need to clock it before installing it? Only reason I ask is because I see here in this video you installed one and did not mention that you had to clock it. Thank you for sharing these videos this is exactly what I was hoping to find
You will not have to clock it. But beware, I purchased three different actuators on eBay before I found a good one. Some of them have failed motors in them, which you will not know until after you install it and test it. One of them would not go into 4Lo and the other one would not Go into Center diff lock. The 3rd one did both correctly. The sellers refunded me on the other two so be sure they offer returns or refunds
Thank you for this! A few questions for you... I snapped one of the bolts that hold the actuator to the transfer case, I want to remove the actuator (which is working fine) to extract the broken bolt. If I remove the actuator and install it back, do I have to have it in 4lo or engage the center diff lock? Or should I disengage both?
Leave both disengaged. When you remove both pins should be in the close position about 4 inches showing. When you install just leave them in the same position and tighten all bolts a little at a time after you wiggle it on as close as possible. As you tighten you will hear binding because the pins are going back into the gears. Keep the truck off and in park during the entire process.
I followed your steps and everything works except the vehicle wont shift out of 4LO. Thoughts? locking diff works perfect and it shifted from 4HI into 4LO but now it wont go back to 4HI
Hey Jake, I followed steps. Removed actuator and replaced gasket, and put it back in. My center diff works fine on/off BUT 4Lo will not switch out to 4Hi. Before I removed I had all functionality. Any advice?
Try switching to center diff than 4pm and back. Be sure you are in neutral. Also place the truck in neutral with the wheels blocked and the ignition has to be on and listen under the truck to hear if the motor is engaging or beeping
@@jakemir all right so with everything bolted up, it will switch into 4Lo, but will not switch out. I can hear the actuator move each time I request 4Lo or 4Hi. With the actuator still connected to the transfer case, but not bolted up it will switch out of 4Lo fine.
@@jakemir no OEM. Got it to work. Took it off, with four low engaged, It wouldn’t come all the way off, so I unbolted it and then disengaged 4Lo (for some reason it had no problem) then took the actuator off. With actuator off I locked 4Lo in (rod all the way out position) and tried to put back on with no luck it’s too far extended. So unlocked 4lo again and put the actuator back on and it worked fine. I did notice those 2 little gaskets that go around the rods were pretty chewed up after taking it off and on, I tried to look for a part number, but it doesn’t seem like they sell any of the gaskets or parts for the actual actuator, just the actuator itself. Hopefully that’s not a big issue.
I am glad you were able to get it working, these are tricky. I messed up those tiny o-rings but have not seen any oil leak. The large o-ring was the one I replaced around the outside of the housing
I have a separate video on clocking it but it was actually a weak motor. I replaced the motor for the center diff and put it back together. I went through three used actuators before buying an Aisin brand and replacing it later.
Let me know if you have any questions or concerns. It is not a great video, but I tried to explain it the best I could. I really did not want to remove the transfer case and it worked
I had to losses the three 12 mm bolts on the actuator and set it in center diff and then tighten them. It was binding . Here is the latest video I made because the seals were bad ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.html
I removed it and installed another motor actuator. Here is a newer video showing another replacement 4Runner V8 Aisin SAT-003 4WD Actuator Replacement Full Video 36410-60093 ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.html
Hello my friend. Thank you so much for the video. I am having EXACTLY the same issue that you are having in this video. I put the actuator on and my center diff engages and disengages fine. But my 4 lo engages fine but it does not want to come out of the 4lo and it just flashes 4lo when I try to take it out. I also hear the same long beep from actuator followed by small beeps (5 min and 57 seconds in your video). You skipped the part of how you fixed that? Please do share because I am so close to fixing it. Thank you!
The rods can only be removed if you remove the transfer case. There are sea clips inside the transfer case that prevent the rods from being removed without taking it apart. The actuators can come off without removing the rods, and then pushed back on using the three bolts to force the gears back into place.
Doing this right now and after putting it together I can get it to go in and out of case lock and into 4lo but it won’t come out. Once I loosen it and twist it like in your other video, it comes out of 4lo but will get stuck in 4lo if I try to cycle it again. Any guess?
It may be out of sync. What was it doing before you moved it? It may also have a weak internal motor or it is off a tooth. Mine was binding all of the time and I ended up getting a new Aisin Actuator. DO NOT BUY the cheap ones on Amazon, it lasted about three cycles before the tooth broke
When you started driving around the 6:00 mark, and your center diff light was illuminated, was the diff actually locked?? If so, driving in circles or curves is a no go. Thats asking for broken parts in the diff and transfer case.
@jakemir ah, that makes sense. When I exercise the system, I do it on pavement usually. But only in a straight line. Plus, I don't move much, it's really to exercise the shift forks. If I do much more, I go to some dirt and gravel roads so I can have some slip.
They will come out. I have taken out several, just keep working it back and forth. You can also take the center diff lock assembly apart and the rock it to get it out. The rods will stay in the transfer case. Here is a more recent video 4Runner V8 Aisin SAT-003 4WD Actuator Replacement Full Video 36410-60093 ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.html
Try it on a flat surface and have someone roll the vehicle forward and backwards with the vehicle off and in neutral and take out all three bolts and it should start to move
Be aware there are three o-rings. If it is leaking it is most likely the two small o- rings on the shafts which have a steel spring and can be difficult to install. I replaced the large oring and it ended up being the small orings allowing differential fluid to seep past the rods
@@jakemir Good to know, I did slide it off enough too see that the large one around the actuator was broken. The two smaller ones are around the prongs?
Just wiggle it into place, be aware of the orings on the two shafts because they can tear easily and when it is almost fully seated start tightening the bolts one at a time evenly
It may have been a problem with the replacement actuator. Remove the actuator again and push both pins completely in and see if it will go into gear. When you try to reinstall it, make sure both pins are fully pushed forward. I actually drove my truck without the actuator for about a week and dry weather only. I placed a piece of cardboard with two holes in it over the two pins and wrapped it in plastic. It will leak out a little bit of transfer fluid, but it will be enough that you can test That it will drive in gear
So i snapped the plastic hole the one on top to be exact while changing my seal and i did dry welding to it so it can go back good place it didn’t work much but it worked but actuator is still leaking, so should i pour BlueDevil Pour N Go in transfer case?
I would buy a used actuator on eBay and change it out. Or you can just use the plastic ring from the used one. www.ebay.com/itm/145295394716?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=odMa9oXUSzu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=JrLXIu86SwO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I replaced the center diff lock motor and encoder out of my old actuator. The 4lo I. The original was bad so this used actuator had a good motor for that. It took four used eBay actuators before finding a good one. I tried the aftermarket one and the gear broke After using it a few tries. The center diff lock is easy to change because it is the top section that opens. To get to the other motor everything has to come out. Hope this helps.
Hey I bought a used actuator off eBay and mine came with the rods. Did you have to disassemble it to get the rods out? Im just trying to change the actuator itself with out changing the rods.
When you install it, wiggle it on as far as you can and then tighten the three bolts a little at a time each to push it on square and you will hear some binding because it it forcing the gears to grab and rotate the motor and that is ok.
@@alexm7382 hey sorry I’m just seeing this. I wasn’t able to get the rods out. I was either planning on returning it and getting one with the rods removed or disassemble it and see if they come out that way.
Most likely a bad motor in the actuator but the Center diff lock is more important than 4LO anyway so at least the better motor is working. There are two motors in this actuator
The center diff lock motor was intermittent in this used assembly and my old one was good so I switched the motor. This is the easier of the two to change because it is on top. This video was more about the ability to ho swap the actuator because all other videos show removing the entire transfer case.
Actuator unseats about an inch and is loose, but won’t let go of the prongs. I’ve wiggled and pulled with a good amount of force and it won’t budge. 4wd and center diff lock off in park, 04 4runner v8. You got any tips?
Thank you for the video. Do you think this is similar to the 2006 Sequoias? I think my transfer case actuator is toast and I'm thinking of doing this. Thanks in advance.
The Sequoia might only be a single shaft. The GX 470 is a single shaft and some of the 4Runner’s. It depends on if you have a Center Diffl lock. Either way it will work. Whether it has two shafts or a single shaft. To remove it you just have to wiggle it back-and-forth a little bit as you pull away from the transfer case.
@@jakemirThe 06 Sequoia has 2 shafts as well. And as for the install, put the car on “on switch” shift it to neutral pull 4wd shaft out completely then put it back in park and tighten the 3 screws evenly? What about the position of the diff lock? I appreciate the help! You might save me a lot of money! 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
@@jakemirSo my issue is, when I have the vehicle on “on switch” all 3 lights just blinks continuously (4hi, 4lo and center diff lock). Even when I turn the car on all 3 lights just blinks. I also notice there’s a buzzing sound coming from the transfer case actuator.
@@erjelmanalastas7924 under the passenger side dash there is a single 10mm bolt, remove that and pull down the cover. The 4WD computer is there. Unplug it and see if the lights go off. Either a short is in the actuator motor or the computer is bad. It is hard to find a good used actuator with two good motors. It took me three tries on eBay. Do not buy the aftermarket one on Amazon it only lasted three tries and broke the gear tooth inside the actuator and I sent it back
@@erjelmanalastas7924 no need to change into neutral or pull out the shafts. After removing the old one just gently wiggle the new one on as close as possible and tighten the three bolts evenly. You will here a binding sound and that is the gears pushing back together against the motors. You should be able to get it in within a quarter inch to half inch then tighten the three bolts a little at a time
Ok so I bought a used actuator and was able to install it using this method. When I turned the car back on (without even touching the switch) the car automatically put it into 4wd (I’m in a v6) and then I got a flashing 4lo light accompanied with the actuator beeping. Moving the switch does nothing. What route would you take here? Is the actuator not clocked correctly?
I would return the actuator and purchase another used one. It actually took me three different used ones before I found one that worked correctly. That’s why I made another video for the.Aisin brand actuator new because it worked right out of the box perfectly but I had to remove the two rods. I purchased the used ones on eBay and unfortunately, there are many bad ones out there, but they have no way to test them.
I am not familiar with the V6 actuator. I do not know if the V6 is the same as the V8. The V8 is a full-time four-wheel-drive with four low and center differential lock. It has two rods and I do not know if the V6 is set up the same way.
@@jakemirsome do have the one rod but I believe mine is the exact same as yours. 2 rods. Just not full time 4wd. Do you have/ know of a video on clocking these? thinking the guy I bought it from might have moved it around.
@@jakemir ok I just watched your video on clocking. Would using that video work knowing that the person who removed the part messed with the original position of the gears? Or is the part screwed and I have to get a new one.
On mine, the actuator doesn't want to come off of the transfer case. I can rotate it back and forth a little and can barely wiggle it. Should I pry it off with a pry bar? I've tried wiggling it with my hands as hard as I could but it won't budge.
Be sure you have all three bolts completely out. The top bolt has another bolt next to it that was not the right bolt. After. The three bolts are out the only thing holding the actuator is the gears, but as you move it left and right they release
@@jakemir I see. So it turned out the issue with mine was the wiring harness. There were a few broken wires. I soldered them back together and it now works but the timing is clearly off. I must have messed that up when trying to remove the actuator because I heard some clicks. I will clock it back together using another video and let you know how that goes. Thank you for the reply!
Hey Jacob! I unscrewed the actuator on my 2004 4.7 V8 4Runner… however, I am unable to remove it from the transfer case because of the rods. So then I took apart the actuator in order to release it from the rods… and it is still stuck… I have a picture. Please help me!
The actuator should come off from the rods because the gears are connected to the motors unless the motors are completely frozen. When you have the actuator bolt removed shift the actuator counterclockwise back and fourth while pulling away. I have another video showing removing and installing
@@jakemir you’re the man!!! I got it off!!! I just put the new actuator on… but I’m skeptical that it will work because I removed the rods from the new actuator by taking the whole thing apart and then putting it back together… before I saw the video of you removing them with the actuator intact.
It is possible with some aftermarket units but the Asin and Toyota OEM parts are made better. This is done slowly and forces the motor to turn back. I have other videos showing disassembly of the actuator and removal and reinstalling. I have done this process about six times in several different vehicles and the only gear I broke was on the 4Lo moon gear on an Amazon replacement actuator made in china. I replaced the moon gear with the one from an OEM and it’s good now
@@jakemir i just ordered an actuator, im not sure if i want to take it apart and put it back together on the rods or just force it on the way you show, which one do you think is easiest and safest without breaking anything
Hopefully you ordered that Aisin or OEM only and not the Amazon China one. I think the safest way is to slowly tighten it on. Just be aware the small spring o-rings are the most common issue and take your time. Here is a link to another video I made ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.htmlsi=-u2lODi7bXgsueu8
thank you so much! I did order the aisin one, itll be arriving in about 5 days, ive watched several of your videos and they are always filled with helpful information. One more thing, if i plug in the actuator and it doesnt move at all, do i have a bad actuator?@@jakemir
I'll be trying this to fix the leak I made while trying to unbind it. Hopefully new seals should fix the issue. I don't want to change the actuator completely because it's expensive and the 4runner is old so I will just disconnect the computer and leave it alone for now. Did you get code P1782? I saw you replace the park/neutral switch but you said that didn't fix it. I thought these were supposed to be bulletproof haha!
Here is a link to replace the actuator 2003-2009 4Runner replace transfer case actuator without removing the transfer case ruclips.net/video/Iq-CusWQ1Wo/видео.html
@@jakemir I figured I’d update you on how things went. So I took it to a shop and I asked them to take the piece off for me and I told them that they didn’t need to drop the transfer case to do the install. They ignored my note but took off the actuator for me and they tried charging me $1500 to fix it! I refused and I ended up fixing it in the parking lot while the actuator was off the car. All I did was pull the diff and 4wh and lo pieces and I configured my new actuator so that the car could understand that the diff was no longer locked and 4wh and low. Then I slid the old actuator back on and it worked!! Couldn’t believe it. The mechanic was laughing at me prior and told me there was no way to fix it unless I dropped the whole thing. Best feeling of my life driving away 😂😂😂
That’s great to hear! All of Toyota’s single rod actuators have a procedure but this being a dual rod they changed it to remove the Transfer case. The issue is the tiny o-rings on the rods can leak. Just be aware on how these small o-rings have springs inside that can flip and leak. I made a video to replace them
I would stick to the Aisin brand or OEM and not any Chinese. Here is a link to the Aisin brand which I use in another video for $600 www.rockauto.com/en/parts/aisin,SAT003,4wd+actuator,10456
Here is also the link to the other video 4Runner V8 Aisin SAT-003 4WD Actuator Replacement Full Video 36410-60093 ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.html
Yes, the O-rings can be replaced when you remove the actuator. Mine is no longer leaking. Just remember when you push it back together to torque the three bolts down evenly and it will push the actuator back into position.
If you bout a new actuator just twist the rod and it will come out. I have other videos with disassembly but if you bought a Chinese Amazon one they put a weak heat in them that needs to be replaced.
It's a new actuator from Ebay. So basically just keep turning each rod in one direction while pulling at the same time. If I had to guess I would say I was pulling with 20 ft lbs maybe 30 but didn't feel any outward movement . No disassembly is needed to get them out right?. I watched your other video and I'm hoping I don't have to disassemble It. Thanks for any help and your tutorials.
These new actuators on eBay and Amazon are made cheap and might break the gear on the bottom rod (opposite of removable cover). The best way on that one is to change out the gear from your original. I bought a used OEM but it took three purchases before I found one where both the center diff and 4WD motors worked. They sell for about $200 each but find one that has returns because I had to go through a few or take yours apart and just pay close attention to each piece and mark them as you remove them. It’s not as bad as it looks. Maybe get the one on Amazon with free returns
I got it to work on my first time!. I took my OEM actuator apart first, I took a bunch of pictures and dotted half of the guide rods facing the gears and then putting another dot on a gear tooth and to the case housing all in straight lines. I wasn't completely sure which gear you meant to do i switched out the gear that makes contact with the rod. If it does end up breaking, I kept all my old parts and pictures. Disassembling and then removing the rods on the new one was easier for me and gave me a chance to see how everything actually lines up. The noise of the gear meshing is way louder in real life.
If this is doable and easy, why isn’t this the way it’s always done with actuator issues? Why does everyone say you need to drop the t-case and/or trans?
The manufacturer does not want the shafts removed from the actuator because the seals around them can leak. If you remove the entire transfer case assembly the rods do not have to be removed. This route avoids that entire process but the seals can still be damaged. I have a video in the seals and another one changing the actuator ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.html
Is this the same process on the v6 version? I switch to 4H monthly like manual says to keep it moving. I can’t get it back to 2H. My diff is locked and blinking. Can’t get it to engage to 4L like I have in the past when it was stuck in 4H
I think the V6 model only has a single rod, but the process should be the same. The motor may have failed in the actuator. Listen to see if it is making a beeping sound. That would mean it is timing out. The motors usually don’t fail. It’s usually the connection to the motor, the terminal that connects the motor to the wire can come apart at the solder joint
Is your actuator stuck where it will not engage? If so, first just loosen the three bolts and then try to engage the 4high and try to move the actuator, it may bind and make a noise but it sounds like it is bound up
@jakemir I appreciate your response.. I'm trying to remove the actuator so I can push back one of the rods to 2wd.. My 4runner is currently stuck on 4hi.. It's on 2wd but 4hi didn't disengage.. There's no light whether it's on 4lo or 4hi.. But when I drive my 4runner u can tell it's on 4wd
Check this video link below. There are motors inside you can connect 12 volts DC and manual force the motor to push the actuator away from the transfer case 4Runner V8 Aisin SAT-003 4WD Actuator Replacement Full Video 36410-60093 ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.html
@@jakemir What section of the video is that at? I was thinking to loosen the fill plugs to release some pressure. Haven’t tried it yet but will update if it works
This method would wreck the seals on the re-installation. that is the main cause of Tcase failure on these. This is a shitty job to do right but I can't see this working.
The individual rod seals are a pain with the springs in them and I am making a better video to show how they go on. I found a video showing a GX470 seal replacement but it is only the single rod at 27 minutes in ruclips.net/video/92WwOsLc39E/видео.htmlsi=XsM6ol-PeQq_nSq5
I'm currently re-sealing a 2 rod in a 2003 4runner and found that the seals had already been damaged (garters rolled out of them) biggest problem right now is that Toyota can't even get me the right seal kit Your clocking video was very helpful, thanks@@jakemir
Here is the link to the seals and a video link on how they can be installed a.co/d/fSgwrUf ruclips.net/video/92WwOsLc39E/видео.htmlsi=p2LoRSc_SL184gkU 27 minutes in and then 42 minutes in
I made a new really long video and I am adding characters now but it shows full replacement start to finish using a new Asin SAT003 ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.htmlsi=_zB9NVuVyp8v6wH6
This is not the way to do it and it never works. There is a reason every real mechanic you talk to will tell you that you have to take the transfer case out, split it, and do it the right way.
This is the first video I’ve ever seen anyone replacing a two prong transfer case actuator - without taking it completely apart, and putting it back together upside down in the truck. Well done.
Thank you for the feedback! I looked all over the Internet for something like this, and cannot find anything so I figured I might as well try it because I was not planning on taking out my transfer case. I think the most important part is to snug the three bolts down evenly and listen for the binding, which is actually a good sound because the gears are messing together. Once it’s fully seeded, it worked great. Unfortunately, I had to try four different used actuators before I found one that both the center diff lock and Foral Drive motors worked. I actually swapped out the center diff lock on the last one I installed because it was acting so strange. thanks again and hopefully this video helps others tackle this job with confidence
What adjustments did u make on the second time
Good video the only thing that bugged me was referring to 4lo as 4wd. Im sure you know the difference but to some viewers they may think 4lo is true 4wd but its not its basically low range awd. Must lock the center diff to be in 4wd
Definitely, it is confusing, center diff lock is the most important feature. The V8 only has 4Lo because it is always in 4HI. Thank you
Thanks for posting this. I have an '03 V8/AWD and 4Lo has never worked since I've had it (about 7 years) but CDL did until just recently. I put it on the other day and it wouldn't go , then it wouldn't turn off until I put in reverse and backed up a bit and braked hard. Haven't tried it since.
How can I have you appreciate the extent of my gratitude for your posting this video? I'd have to bore you with the details of my background. I will try to summarize. I bought a brand new 2003 4runner v6 Limited. We ski. The thing is a beast in heavy snow without me ever having to shift into 4lo. Then one summer I try to shift into 4lo and it isnt having it. It goes from 2 wheel to 4 hi no issues but it beeps and blinks when I try 4lo. I took it to 5 independent shops and paid their diagnostic fee and they were clueless. Next, I take it to the dealer. Big mistake. I let them diagnose it. They give it back to me and almost every light on the dashboard is now blinking on and off AND they tell me it is now stuck in 4lo and I cant drive it so I have to leave it. I test it and determine it is stuck but its in 4 hi which toyota tells me is like all wheel drive so its ok to drive on dry pavement. The dealer wants me to let them replace the transmission! I say NO you broke my vehicle and now if I let you replace the transmission I doubt it will ever be the same. I say (I was in no position to afford a new 4runner so here I lied) I will tell you what, I will pick out a new 4runner on your lot, how much will you give me for mine? They tell me nothing because its broke first you have to fix it. I tell them but you broke it. The manager says but it was ready to go you could have driven it off the lot and it would have broke. I say but now we will never know. I tell the manager Ive never had a situation like this I guess the BBB and the state consumer protection dept come to mind. The manager literally laughed in my face saying see where that gets you going thru small claims court. So this began a months long effort on my part to understand whats going on and to get them to take responsibility for it. When I find google references to others in my position that hadnt used their 4lo in a long time I get the actuator froze up and needs to be replaced. When I relay this to them they tell meif you take the actuator off you HAVE to remove the transfer case which is such a big job that you may as well remove the entire transmission. Thank God I didnt bite. Several years have gone by. I havent been too keen on doing the job myself because of the videos other posted, it seemed complicated. Your video is pretty much idiot proof, great video, great audio, precise details and every detail. I am finally ready to do the job myself. I am truly thankful and greatful. I love this vehicle but dont have a mechanic I can trust and have been driving it infrequently because it is like half the vehicle it once was.
In closing, do you have any info to share regarding replacing the rear window regulator and sub assembly? One arm rusted through (I learned my brand new 4runner came from the factory with a bottom window molding that had a small gap that let water inside). but the window is supported by the other arm and so its closed I just cant raise or lower it. Thanks again.
Sincerely,
Pete
My 2005 4Runner got stuck in 4WD low the other day and I'm still in the process of trying to fix it myself. But no luck so far. Your videos have been most helpful. It feels like it is in low range but not 4WD (if that is possible). Cheapest price I have found to get actuator replaced was $3K. One place wanted $5K and said they would have to pull transfer case and transmission (at least they didn't have to pull the engine lol). I might try to replace myself but the "clocking" process is daunting. So I would be ok just getting it out of 4WD low and never using 4WD low again. Is there a way to force it out of 4WD low and still be able to use 4WD high on demand? Or even getting it out of 4wD low and never using 4WD again?
I do not know if your Toyota has two rods or one rod, but either way you can remove the actuator and pull the rod out and it should release the four-wheel-drive. If you push the rod all the way in it should put it back into four-wheel-drive.
So i have a customer with an 06 4runner v8, transfer case ran dry due to leaky actuator and then started grinding and skipping. Customer purchased new toyota transfer case and new toyota actuator. Old t case and actuator is already out of the car in one piece. How do i install the new one? Do i just bolt up the new t case and pop the new actuator on like you did? Or do i need to tear into the t case like many other people suggest?
I would recommend buying the Aisin brand actuator with the shafts already installed and do it the correct way by installing it while the transfer case is removed. This video is just a shortcut so you do not have to remove the transfer case but it definitely is not the correct way to do this job. The best way to do it is by removing the transfer case. since you already have the transfer case out, it will be a much easier job
@jakemir do you have a video of the correct way with the tcase removed?
I have never done it; Here is one that someone else made
ruclips.net/video/C0thIexRgDk/видео.htmlsi=2oULTbzDlqWxeirw
When you pull out the upper rod that engages 4lo and then put it in park to put the actuator back on. Would it not be in 4lo already? Or is it fine just putting in 4lo once you have put the bolts back in to get it to engage? Did you get any codes or was it all fine? Also, can you unlock and lock 4lo with the actuator off from the cab? Or can you only do manually by pulling out the rod with the actuator off? I am planning on taking mine off to fix a leak, the actuator works fine and trying to avoid taking the TC off. thanks!
Here is a better video link. Keep both rods fully forward and it may help to keep the vehicle in neutral. Rock the new actuator on . Don’t damage the seals
4Runner Aisin SAT-003 4WD Actuator Replacement Full Video 36410-60093
ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.html
Gonna do this on my GX470 it only has one rod currently need to remove mine but I planned to remove the actuator and assure that it is unlocked, plug the new one in do a test run lock and unlock then leave it in the unlocked position unplug and reinstall. I just changed the airbags myself so I’m sure I’m capable of this.
This video may explain better
4Runner V8 Aisin SAT-003 4WD Actuator Replacement Full Video 36410-60093
ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.html
If I purchase an eBay actuator will I need to clock it before installing it? Only reason I ask is because I see here in this video you installed one and did not mention that you had to clock it. Thank you for sharing these videos this is exactly what I was hoping to find
You will not have to clock it. But beware, I purchased three different actuators on eBay before I found a good one. Some of them have failed motors in them, which you will not know until after you install it and test it. One of them would not go into 4Lo and the other one would not Go into Center diff lock. The 3rd one did both correctly. The sellers refunded me on the other two so be sure they offer returns or refunds
Thank you for this! A few questions for you... I snapped one of the bolts that hold the actuator to the transfer case, I want to remove the actuator (which is working fine) to extract the broken bolt. If I remove the actuator and install it back, do I have to have it in 4lo or engage the center diff lock? Or should I disengage both?
Leave both disengaged. When you remove both pins should be in the close position about 4 inches showing. When you install just leave them in the same position and tighten all bolts a little at a time after you wiggle it on as close as possible. As you tighten you will hear binding because the pins are going back into the gears. Keep the truck off and in park during the entire process.
I followed your steps and everything works except the vehicle wont shift out of 4LO. Thoughts?
locking diff works perfect and it shifted from 4HI into 4LO but now it wont go back to 4HI
Loosen the three bolts and rock it. It may be binding or the motor is weak for the 4Lo. Did you install a new actuator or a used one?
Hey Jake, I followed steps. Removed actuator and replaced gasket, and put it back in. My center diff works fine on/off BUT 4Lo will not switch out to 4Hi. Before I removed I had all functionality. Any advice?
Try switching to center diff than 4pm and back. Be sure you are in neutral. Also place the truck in neutral with the wheels blocked and the ignition has to be on and listen under the truck to hear if the motor is engaging or beeping
@@jakemir all right so with everything bolted up, it will switch into 4Lo, but will not switch out. I can hear the actuator move each time I request 4Lo or 4Hi. With the actuator still connected to the transfer case, but not bolted up it will switch out of 4Lo fine.
It sounds like the motor is failing. Is this a replacement actuator?
@@jakemir no OEM. Got it to work. Took it off, with four low engaged, It wouldn’t come all the way off, so I unbolted it and then disengaged 4Lo (for some reason it had no problem) then took the actuator off. With actuator off I locked 4Lo in (rod all the way out position) and tried to put back on with no luck it’s too far extended. So unlocked 4lo again and put the actuator back on and it worked fine. I did notice those 2 little gaskets that go around the rods were pretty chewed up after taking it off and on, I tried to look for a part number, but it doesn’t seem like they sell any of the gaskets or parts for the actual actuator, just the actuator itself. Hopefully that’s not a big issue.
I am glad you were able to get it working, these are tricky. I messed up those tiny o-rings but have not seen any oil leak. The large o-ring was the one I replaced around the outside of the housing
What did you do with the gear syncing at 10:03? That's a really crucial step/mod.
I have a separate video on clocking it but it was actually a weak motor. I replaced the motor for the center diff and put it back together. I went through three used actuators before buying an Aisin brand and replacing it later.
Thank you for this video! Gonna give it a shot!
Let me know if you have any questions or concerns. It is not a great video, but I tried to explain it the best I could. I really did not want to remove the transfer case and it worked
@vincent were you able to attach the actuator without taking it apart?
Yes, I would not recommend taking it apart. Here is a link to a more recent replacement
ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.htmlsi=JDj1q5mZ5zk2tgoy
Excellent work! What was the adjustment you made @10:05 ? 10:06
I had to losses the three 12 mm bolts on the actuator and set it in center diff and then tighten them. It was binding . Here is the latest video I made because the seals were bad
ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.html
What adjustments did u make when u took it back off?
I removed it and installed another motor actuator. Here is a newer video showing another replacement
4Runner V8 Aisin SAT-003 4WD Actuator Replacement Full Video 36410-60093
ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.html
Hello my friend. Thank you so much for the video. I am having EXACTLY the same issue that you are having in this video. I put the actuator on and my center diff engages and disengages fine. But my 4 lo engages fine but it does not want to come out of the 4lo and it just flashes 4lo when I try to take it out. I also hear the same long beep from actuator followed by small beeps (5 min and 57 seconds in your video). You skipped the part of how you fixed that? Please do share because I am so close to fixing it. Thank you!
This video is more recent, so see if this answers your question
ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.html
Did you replace the two rods going into the transfer case and if so do they just pull out?
The rods can only be removed if you remove the transfer case. There are sea clips inside the transfer case that prevent the rods from being removed without taking it apart. The actuators can come off without removing the rods, and then pushed back on using the three bolts to force the gears back into place.
Doing this right now and after putting it together I can get it to go in and out of case lock and into 4lo but it won’t come out. Once I loosen it and twist it like in your other video, it comes out of 4lo but will get stuck in 4lo if I try to cycle it again. Any guess?
It may be out of sync. What was it doing before you moved it? It may also have a weak internal motor or it is off a tooth. Mine was binding all of the time and I ended up getting a new Aisin Actuator. DO NOT BUY the cheap ones on Amazon, it lasted about three cycles before the tooth broke
@ it was not doing it before. I’ll look into the Aisin replacement..retiming looks like a pain haha! Thank you for the quick response!
When you started driving around the 6:00 mark, and your center diff light was illuminated, was the diff actually locked?? If so, driving in circles or curves is a no go. Thats asking for broken parts in the diff and transfer case.
Yes, I was on the grass in the back yard just barely moving right and left. There was no binding. Not a good idea on dry pavement
@jakemir ah, that makes sense. When I exercise the system, I do it on pavement usually. But only in a straight line. Plus, I don't move much, it's really to exercise the shift forks. If I do much more, I go to some dirt and gravel roads so I can have some slip.
very good video friend but my actuator you don't want to come out is stuck what should I do
They will come out. I have taken out several, just keep working it back and forth. You can also take the center diff lock assembly apart and the rock it to get it out. The rods will stay in the transfer case. Here is a more recent video
4Runner V8 Aisin SAT-003 4WD Actuator Replacement Full Video 36410-60093
ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.html
mine doesn’t rock back n forth like that and does NOT wanna come off, it’s in neutral. Any suggestions?
Try it on a flat surface and have someone roll the vehicle forward and backwards with the vehicle off and in neutral and take out all three bolts and it should start to move
@@jakemir Thank you, i’ll give that a shot. The annoying part is I don’t even need to replace the actuator I just need to slip on a new O ring 😭
Be aware there are three o-rings. If it is leaking it is most likely the two small o- rings on the shafts which have a steel spring and can be difficult to install. I replaced the large oring and it ended up being the small orings allowing differential fluid to seep past the rods
@@jakemir Good to know, I did slide it off enough too see that the large one around the actuator was broken. The two smaller ones are around the prongs?
Yes
so when i put it back on do i need to retime it or just push it back on?
Just wiggle it into place, be aware of the orings on the two shafts because they can tear easily and when it is almost fully seated start tightening the bolts one at a time evenly
Hey man, after replacing mine, I’m stuck in Neutral, any ideas?
It may have been a problem with the replacement actuator. Remove the actuator again and push both pins completely in and see if it will go into gear. When you try to reinstall it, make sure both pins are fully pushed forward. I actually drove my truck without the actuator for about a week and dry weather only. I placed a piece of cardboard with two holes in it over the two pins and wrapped it in plastic. It will leak out a little bit of transfer fluid, but it will be enough that you can test That it will drive in gear
So i snapped the plastic hole the one on top to be exact while changing my seal and i did dry welding to it so it can go back good place it didn’t work much but it worked but actuator is still leaking, so should i pour BlueDevil Pour N Go in transfer case?
I would buy a used actuator on eBay and change it out. Or you can just use the plastic ring from the used one.
www.ebay.com/itm/145295394716?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=odMa9oXUSzu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=JrLXIu86SwO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Just curious what you did to adjust the actuator the 2nd time or was it just a matter of giving a 2nd reseat try?
I replaced the center diff lock motor and encoder out of my old actuator. The 4lo I. The original was bad so this used actuator had a good motor for that. It took four used eBay actuators before finding a good one. I tried the aftermarket one and the gear broke After using it a few tries. The center diff lock is easy to change because it is the top section that opens. To get to the other motor everything has to come out. Hope this helps.
Hey I bought a used actuator off eBay and mine came with the rods. Did you have to disassemble it to get the rods out? Im just trying to change the actuator itself with out changing the rods.
Just wiggle them out. You will see two really tiny o-rings that need to go back on.
When you install it, wiggle it on as far as you can and then tighten the three bolts a little at a time each to push it on square and you will hear some binding because it it forcing the gears to grab and rotate the motor and that is ok.
We're you able to remove yours. I feel a bit of slack when I try to rotate the rods but I don't know how much force I can pull with.
@@alexm7382 hey sorry I’m just seeing this. I wasn’t able to get the rods out. I was either planning on returning it and getting one with the rods removed or disassemble it and see if they come out that way.
Are 4.0 v6 model same install?
They are slightly different, but easier because they only have one shaft and not two shafts
i have a 2006 V8 AWD and when i put it in 4LO nothing lights up or beeps. but my center diff lock does work. could it be a bad selector switch?
Most likely a bad motor in the actuator but the Center diff lock is more important than 4LO anyway so at least the better motor is working. There are two motors in this actuator
@@jakemir I also tested the selector switch for voltage while vehicle was on. No voltage or signal .
I was able to fix this. I removed the 4wd switch and two of the prongs were bent on the switch. Everything working properly now.
That’s great! A much easier repair. I wonder how that happened, maybe the radio was replaced?
@@jakemir the stereo is an oem navi screen. Honestly not sure. Hard to tell.
What adjustments did you do
The center diff lock motor was intermittent in this used assembly and my old one was good so I switched the motor. This is the easier of the two to change because it is on top. This video was more about the ability to ho swap the actuator because all other videos show removing the entire transfer case.
Actuator unseats about an inch and is loose, but won’t let go of the prongs. I’ve wiggled and pulled with a good amount of force and it won’t budge. 4wd and center diff lock off in park, 04 4runner v8. You got any tips?
Is the wiring harness and vent tube removed? Rotate clockwise and counterclockwise as you pull back and it will come off the shift rods.
@@jakemiri’ve been having this same problem. rocked back and forth forever and it just won’t release. this is my second attempt. 03 v8 full time 4wd
Thank you for the video. Do you think this is similar to the 2006 Sequoias? I think my transfer case actuator is toast and I'm thinking of doing this. Thanks in advance.
The Sequoia might only be a single shaft. The GX 470 is a single shaft and some of the 4Runner’s. It depends on if you have a Center Diffl lock. Either way it will work. Whether it has two shafts or a single shaft. To remove it you just have to wiggle it back-and-forth a little bit as you pull away from the transfer case.
@@jakemirThe 06 Sequoia has 2 shafts as well. And as for the install, put the car on “on switch” shift it to neutral pull 4wd shaft out completely then put it back in park and tighten the 3 screws evenly? What about the position of the diff lock? I appreciate the help! You might save me a lot of money! 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
@@jakemirSo my issue is, when I have the vehicle on “on switch” all 3 lights just blinks continuously (4hi, 4lo and center diff lock). Even when I turn the car on all 3 lights just blinks. I also notice there’s a buzzing sound coming from the transfer case actuator.
@@erjelmanalastas7924 under the passenger side dash there is a single 10mm bolt, remove that and pull down the cover. The 4WD computer is there. Unplug it and see if the lights go off. Either a short is in the actuator motor or the computer is bad. It is hard to find a good used actuator with two good motors. It took me three tries on eBay. Do not buy the aftermarket one on Amazon it only lasted three tries and broke the gear tooth inside the actuator and I sent it back
@@erjelmanalastas7924 no need to change into neutral or pull out the shafts. After removing the old one just gently wiggle the new one on as close as possible and tighten the three bolts evenly. You will here a binding sound and that is the gears pushing back together against the motors. You should be able to get it in within a quarter inch to half inch then tighten the three bolts a little at a time
Ok so I bought a used actuator and was able to install it using this method. When I turned the car back on (without even touching the switch) the car automatically put it into 4wd (I’m in a v6) and then I got a flashing 4lo light accompanied with the actuator beeping. Moving the switch does nothing.
What route would you take here? Is the actuator not clocked correctly?
I would return the actuator and purchase another used one. It actually took me three different used ones before I found one that worked correctly. That’s why I made another video for the.Aisin brand actuator new because it worked right out of the box perfectly but I had to remove the two rods. I purchased the used ones on eBay and unfortunately, there are many bad ones out there, but they have no way to test them.
@@jakemir do you think it’s for sure the actuator and not something else going on?
I am not familiar with the V6 actuator. I do not know if the V6 is the same as the V8. The V8 is a full-time four-wheel-drive with four low and center differential lock. It has two rods and I do not know if the V6 is set up the same way.
@@jakemirsome do have the one rod but I believe mine is the exact same as yours. 2 rods. Just not full time 4wd. Do you have/ know of a video on clocking these? thinking the guy I bought it from might have moved it around.
@@jakemir ok I just watched your video on clocking. Would using that video work knowing that the person who removed the part messed with the original position of the gears? Or is the part screwed and I have to get a new one.
On mine, the actuator doesn't want to come off of the transfer case. I can rotate it back and forth a little and can barely wiggle it. Should I pry it off with a pry bar? I've tried wiggling it with my hands as hard as I could but it won't budge.
Be sure you have all three bolts completely out. The top bolt has another bolt next to it that was not the right bolt. After. The three bolts are out the only thing holding the actuator is the gears, but as you move it left and right they release
@@jakemir I see. So it turned out the issue with mine was the wiring harness. There were a few broken wires. I soldered them back together and it now works but the timing is clearly off. I must have messed that up when trying to remove the actuator because I heard some clicks. I will clock it back together using another video and let you know how that goes. Thank you for the reply!
Hey Jacob! I unscrewed the actuator on my 2004 4.7 V8 4Runner… however, I am unable to remove it from the transfer case because of the rods. So then I took apart the actuator in order to release it from the rods… and it is still stuck… I have a picture. Please help me!
The actuator should come off from the rods because the gears are connected to the motors unless the motors are completely frozen. When you have the actuator bolt removed shift the actuator counterclockwise back and fourth while pulling away. I have another video showing removing and installing
4Runner V8 Aisin SAT-003 4WD Actuator Replacement Full Video 36410-60093
ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.html
@@jakemir you’re the man!!! I got it off!!! I just put the new actuator on… but I’m skeptical that it will work because I removed the rods from the new actuator by taking the whole thing apart and then putting it back together… before I saw the video of you removing them with the actuator intact.
The other video I sent shows just pressing it on although the orings on the rods can leak
By forcing the rods inside the actuator, doesn't that risk breaking the gearing inside the actuator itself?
It is possible with some aftermarket units but the Asin and Toyota OEM parts are made better. This is done slowly and forces the motor to turn back. I have other videos showing disassembly of the actuator and removal and reinstalling. I have done this process about six times in several different vehicles and the only gear I broke was on the 4Lo moon gear on an Amazon replacement actuator made in china. I replaced the moon gear with the one from an OEM and it’s good now
@@jakemir i just ordered an actuator, im not sure if i want to take it apart and put it back together on the rods or just force it on the way you show, which one do you think is easiest and safest without breaking anything
Hopefully you ordered that Aisin or OEM only and not the Amazon China one. I think the safest way is to slowly tighten it on. Just be aware the small spring o-rings are the most common issue and take your time. Here is a link to another video I made
ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.htmlsi=-u2lODi7bXgsueu8
thank you so much! I did order the aisin one, itll be arriving in about 5 days, ive watched several of your videos and they are always filled with helpful information. One more thing, if i plug in the actuator and it doesnt move at all, do i have a bad actuator?@@jakemir
and by the o-rings, you mean the ones around the rods correct?
@@jakemir
I'll be trying this to fix the leak I made while trying to unbind it. Hopefully new seals should fix the issue. I don't want to change the actuator completely because it's expensive and the 4runner is old so I will just disconnect the computer and leave it alone for now. Did you get code P1782? I saw you replace the park/neutral switch but you said that didn't fix it. I thought these were supposed to be bulletproof haha!
Here is a link to replace the actuator
2003-2009 4Runner replace transfer case actuator without removing the transfer case
ruclips.net/video/Iq-CusWQ1Wo/видео.html
Try leaving the bolts a bit loose at first. It can be a fix.
I have a couple questions. I’m having some trouble. Can I call you? Thanks
Did you see the link to the other video? I have no way to share my contact information on RUclips
@@jakemir I figured I’d update you on how things went. So I took it to a shop and I asked them to take the piece off for me and I told them that they didn’t need to drop the transfer case to do the install. They ignored my note but took off the actuator for me and they tried charging me $1500 to fix it! I refused and I ended up fixing it in the parking lot while the actuator was off the car. All I did was pull the diff and 4wh and lo pieces and I configured my new actuator so that the car could understand that the diff was no longer locked and 4wh and low. Then I slid the old actuator back on and it worked!! Couldn’t believe it. The mechanic was laughing at me prior and told me there was no way to fix it unless I dropped the whole thing. Best feeling of my life driving away 😂😂😂
That’s great to hear! All of Toyota’s single rod actuators have a procedure but this being a dual rod they changed it to remove the Transfer case. The issue is the tiny o-rings on the rods can leak. Just be aware on how these small o-rings have springs inside that can flip and leak. I made a video to replace them
I see OEM ones for under $500 on E Bay direct from Japan. With free shipping.
I would stick to the Aisin brand or OEM and not any Chinese. Here is a link to the Aisin brand which I use in another video for $600
www.rockauto.com/en/parts/aisin,SAT003,4wd+actuator,10456
Here is also the link to the other video
4Runner V8 Aisin SAT-003 4WD Actuator Replacement Full Video 36410-60093
ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.html
Why do they all say 187 on them with a marker ? Mine also says 187
I was wondering the same thing when I started seeing them on eBay.
Wonder if this will work to reseal my actuator
Yes, the O-rings can be replaced when you remove the actuator. Mine is no longer leaking. Just remember when you push it back together to torque the three bolts down evenly and it will push the actuator back into position.
The O ring may be ok BUT the two seals on the two shafts YOU HAVE RIPPED TO BITS NOW.
I think you can replace those too, the set has all three including the little guys for the shaft@@raydesfor8217
@@raydesfor8217can you elaborate? Are you saying this method destroys the seals? If so, which seals?
Does anyone know the method to remove the actuating rods off a new actuator.? The twist and pull doesn't seem to work.
Yes. Remove three bolts completely and then wiggle it clockwise and counterclockwise as you pull it backwards and it will slide off the shafts
If you bout a new actuator just twist the rod and it will come out. I have other videos with disassembly but if you bought a Chinese Amazon one they put a weak heat in them that needs to be replaced.
It's a new actuator from Ebay. So basically just keep turning each rod in one direction while pulling at the same time. If I had to guess I would say I was pulling with 20 ft lbs maybe 30 but didn't feel any outward movement .
No disassembly is needed to get them out right?.
I watched your other video and I'm hoping I don't have to disassemble It.
Thanks for any help and your tutorials.
These new actuators on eBay and Amazon are made cheap and might break the gear on the bottom rod (opposite of removable cover). The best way on that one is to change out the gear from your original. I bought a used OEM but it took three purchases before I found one where both the center diff and 4WD motors worked. They sell for about $200 each but find one that has returns because I had to go through a few or take yours apart and just pay close attention to each piece and mark them as you remove them. It’s not as bad as it looks. Maybe get the one on Amazon with free returns
I got it to work on my first time!. I took my OEM actuator apart first, I took a bunch of pictures and dotted half of the guide rods facing the gears and then putting another dot on a gear tooth and to the case housing all in straight lines. I wasn't completely sure which gear you meant to do i switched out the gear that makes contact with the rod. If it does end up breaking, I kept all my old parts and pictures. Disassembling and then removing the rods on the new one was easier for me and gave me a chance to see how everything actually lines up. The noise of the gear meshing is way louder in real life.
If this is doable and easy, why isn’t this the way it’s always done with actuator issues? Why does everyone say you need to drop the t-case and/or trans?
The manufacturer does not want the shafts removed from the actuator because the seals around them can leak. If you remove the entire transfer case assembly the rods do not have to be removed. This route avoids that entire process but the seals can still be damaged. I have a video in the seals and another one changing the actuator
ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.html
Is this the same process on the v6 version?
I switch to 4H monthly like manual says to keep it moving. I can’t get it back to 2H. My diff is locked and blinking. Can’t get it to engage to 4L like I have in the past when it was stuck in 4H
I think the V6 model only has a single rod, but the process should be the same. The motor may have failed in the actuator. Listen to see if it is making a beeping sound. That would mean it is timing out. The motors usually don’t fail. It’s usually the connection to the motor, the terminal that connects the motor to the wire can come apart at the solder joint
Awesome thanks! I disconnected the harness to the actuator and hit it with some 12V direct power and the actuator switched back to 2H 👍
My actuator doesn't wants to cone out..
I even tried wiggling it out
Is your actuator stuck where it will not engage? If so, first just loosen the three bolts and then try to engage the 4high and try to move the actuator, it may bind and make a noise but it sounds like it is bound up
@jakemir I appreciate your response..
I'm trying to remove the actuator so I can push back one of the rods to 2wd..
My 4runner is currently stuck on 4hi..
It's on 2wd but 4hi didn't disengage..
There's no light whether it's on 4lo or 4hi..
But when I drive my 4runner u can tell it's on 4wd
I can’t get the actuator out to save my life! Even taking out all the bolts, wiggling, and prying
Check this video link below. There are motors inside you can connect 12 volts DC and manual force the motor to push the actuator away from the transfer case
4Runner V8 Aisin SAT-003 4WD Actuator Replacement Full Video 36410-60093
ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.html
@@jakemir What section of the video is that at? I was thinking to loosen the fill plugs to release some pressure. Haven’t tried it yet but will update if it works
This method would wreck the seals on the re-installation. that is the main cause of Tcase failure on these. This is a shitty job to do right but I can't see this working.
The individual rod seals are a pain with the springs in them and I am making a better video to show how they go on. I found a video showing a GX470 seal replacement but it is only the single rod at 27 minutes in
ruclips.net/video/92WwOsLc39E/видео.htmlsi=XsM6ol-PeQq_nSq5
I'm currently re-sealing a 2 rod in a 2003 4runner and found that the seals had already been damaged (garters rolled out of them) biggest problem right now is that Toyota can't even get me the right seal kit
Your clocking video was very helpful, thanks@@jakemir
Here is the link to the seals and a video link on how they can be installed
a.co/d/fSgwrUf
ruclips.net/video/92WwOsLc39E/видео.htmlsi=p2LoRSc_SL184gkU
27 minutes in and then 42 minutes in
You only had one more mile, man. One more mile and it would have been perfect.
I made a new really long video and I am adding characters now but it shows full replacement start to finish using a new Asin SAT003
ruclips.net/video/xKgB_WDnttQ/видео.htmlsi=_zB9NVuVyp8v6wH6
This is not the way to do it and it never works. There is a reason every real mechanic you talk to will tell you that you have to take the transfer case out, split it, and do it the right way.