I think centre-weighted metering tends to get overlooked sometimes. As you say, ideal to accurately meter a specific subject, allowing the surroundings to either under or over expose. Either way, giving centre of attention to the subject. So it's great for singling out any subject, or portion of a scene. This could of course be a specific subject in tricky lighting. It's also great for shooting through gaps, shooting under/through archways and similar, where you want to meter for the scene just beyond e.g. standing under an arch and shooting a busy street-scene for example, or shooting through an alleyway capturing a similar shot. CW is also great for shooting interior shots through windows, and getting a good exposure for the outside. Great for an 'artistic' shot and comes into play with real-estate photography and the like. So I think it's definitely worth experimenting with this metering mode. Spot-metering is great, once you get to grips with it, again, as you say. Really good for manipulating scenes and for creative shots. One way I like to work with spot-metering is using it with the Auto Exposure Lock (AEL). I might, for example, spot-meter for the highlights, or close to, to correctly expose them and get the shadows/darker areas to really fall off and underexpose, to my liking, giving a high-contrast/artistic shot. Then I will lock this exposure down, with AEL and I'm free to recompose and refocus the entire scene, with that exposure locked in and consistent through however many shots I take. It's really good working a street scene say in harsh midday sun, with hard shadows. As you point out, if say in Aperture Priority, I'll use ex. comp. accordingly, to tweak it. Anyway, I definitely recommend experimenting with spot-metering. I think I would equally use multi and spot, say 40% of the time for both, and 20% CW...ish. I never use average, but how you reasoned it, especially say an evenly lit park scene, or similar, I'll definitely give it a whirl. Anyway, enough of my ramble and I know you know all of this Natalie. I just thought the odd bit might just help someone who is relatively new to photography, who stumbles across it. I've picked up lots of useful info that way, myself over the years...Cheers!
Thanks for the insight, its great to hear how others do their photography. AEL is certainly a handy subject to cover and combine with the movable spot metering, where you meter, say the sky, lock the exposure, recompose and take a photo. Worthy of a deep dive into that exposure mode in a future video!
If you are using face eye on the X-T4 the camera will meter for that, you cannot change it and it will likely work better. However if you used zone AF, you could then combine that with Average or multi mode. You'd need to use those as you have to act fast for street shots, and the other modes are a bit fiddly.
Thank you…useful info.
I think centre-weighted metering tends to get overlooked sometimes. As you say, ideal to accurately meter a specific subject, allowing the surroundings to either under or over expose. Either way, giving centre of attention to the subject. So it's great for singling out any subject, or portion of a scene. This could of course be a specific subject in tricky lighting. It's also great for shooting through gaps, shooting under/through archways and similar, where you want to meter for the scene just beyond e.g. standing under an arch and shooting a busy street-scene for example, or shooting through an alleyway capturing a similar shot. CW is also great for shooting interior shots through windows, and getting a good exposure for the outside. Great for an 'artistic' shot and comes into play with real-estate photography and the like. So I think it's definitely worth experimenting with this metering mode.
Spot-metering is great, once you get to grips with it, again, as you say. Really good for manipulating scenes and for creative shots. One way I like to work with spot-metering is using it with the Auto Exposure Lock (AEL). I might, for example, spot-meter for the highlights, or close to, to correctly expose them and get the shadows/darker areas to really fall off and underexpose, to my liking, giving a high-contrast/artistic shot. Then I will lock this exposure down, with AEL and I'm free to recompose and refocus the entire scene, with that exposure locked in and consistent through however many shots I take. It's really good working a street scene say in harsh midday sun, with hard shadows. As you point out, if say in Aperture Priority, I'll use ex. comp. accordingly, to tweak it. Anyway, I definitely recommend experimenting with spot-metering. I think I would equally use multi and spot, say 40% of the time for both, and 20% CW...ish. I never use average, but how you reasoned it, especially say an evenly lit park scene, or similar, I'll definitely give it a whirl.
Anyway, enough of my ramble and I know you know all of this Natalie. I just thought the odd bit might just help someone who is relatively new to photography, who stumbles across it. I've picked up lots of useful info that way, myself over the years...Cheers!
Thanks for the insight, its great to hear how others do their photography. AEL is certainly a handy subject to cover and combine with the movable spot metering, where you meter, say the sky, lock the exposure, recompose and take a photo. Worthy of a deep dive into that exposure mode in a future video!
@@NatsWright Look forward to seeing it!
What would you use on a Fuji xt4 for street photography
If you are using face eye on the X-T4 the camera will meter for that, you cannot change it and it will likely work better. However if you used zone AF, you could then combine that with Average or multi mode. You'd need to use those as you have to act fast for street shots, and the other modes are a bit fiddly.
@@NatsWright Thank you for the information I will try it. 👍