👍Thanks for this vid dude. Had a lot of people saying pull the tie rod, pull the whole knuckle, pull the strut and LCA, people saying how stuck the axle was going to be. I followed your video and was done in 45mins or so in my driveway. Although im working on a Mazda 5, its the same set up.
2006 Mazda 3, 2.0 L engine. I'm in the middle of replacing the CV axle, seal, wheel bearing, and control arm ball joint. Got the axle from Autozone (Duralast Gold 10462N). Website said it was the correct part. It looked right, but wouldn't go all the way into the transmission. Turns out there are multiple versions of this axle around 2006-07. Measured the old vs new splines and they were different. The Autozone guy looked up and pulled out multiple axles that were supposed to fit and nothing matched the OEM. Then he looked up 2007 axles, and Duralast 10454N matched the original. My car must've been built during a transition. What a PITA!
I hate when that happens. With how technologically advanced we are these days you would think that they would have that up-to-date in their parts system.
I shoulda watched this first. Oh well. One note: torque specs on that axle nut is 173 - 202 ft/lbs. It kinda looked like you didn't put much on that one.
Great vid. Okay, after watching your video im pretty sure some put the wrong axle on my mazda 3..... i cant put the ball joint on no matter what. Its a easy job untill someone put longer axles on it lol.
Don't even know if my comment will help me, but I guess i'll explain my problem anyway. The ball joint won't go back into the knuckle, it'll line up horizontally, but not vertically. Tried loosening up the lower control arm, sway bar link, and strut to no avail. The CV Axle has to be pushed in all the way, I've at least tried again and again. Tried used the jack to push it in: doesn't work. Tried using a wedge like a pry bar to open up the knuckle: doesn't work. I really don't understand what to do now.
That's a tough one. Without actually seeing it I don't know how much help I'll be. But I do know that there is a slight angle that the lower ball joint has to be put in at and that the CV axle can often be the issue if it won't line up correctly.
@@13sGARAGE Thank you for responding, I figured it out. IT'S THE WRONG CV AXLE. It's longer than the old one. I was in denial until I took it out and put it next to the old one. My fault.
@@franciscoherrera9342 for the most part yes, the passenger side will have an extended shaft that will have a center bearing that is typically held in place with two to three bolts.
You don't necessarily have to replace the seal. I just inspected mine, they still looked fine. Obviously be careful putting in the splines so you don't damage the seal.
👍Thanks for this vid dude. Had a lot of people saying pull the tie rod, pull the whole knuckle, pull the strut and LCA, people saying how stuck the axle was going to be. I followed your video and was done in 45mins or so in my driveway. Although im working on a Mazda 5, its the same set up.
Glad to hear it boss man 👍
2006 Mazda 3, 2.0 L engine.
I'm in the middle of replacing the CV axle, seal, wheel bearing, and control arm ball joint. Got the axle from Autozone (Duralast Gold 10462N). Website said it was the correct part. It looked right, but wouldn't go all the way into the transmission.
Turns out there are multiple versions of this axle around 2006-07. Measured the old vs new splines and they were different. The Autozone guy looked up and pulled out multiple axles that were supposed to fit and nothing matched the OEM. Then he looked up 2007 axles, and Duralast 10454N matched the original. My car must've been built during a transition. What a PITA!
I hate when that happens. With how technologically advanced we are these days you would think that they would have that up-to-date in their parts system.
The best cv axle video I’ve seen on any car but especially for a g2 Mazda 3
@@Jeff-rk8hq thanks for the feedback boss! And the motivation to keep making videos!
I shoulda watched this first. Oh well. One note: torque specs on that axle nut is 173 - 202 ft/lbs. It kinda looked like you didn't put much on that one.
Im sure its the same on my 2012 Mazda 3 skyactiv. You make it look real easy.
It should definitely be similar. Best of luck with your repair.
Music in the background: “Nothing More” you have my attention
Life saver ❤
Great vid. Okay, after watching your video im pretty sure some put the wrong axle on my mazda 3..... i cant put the ball joint on no matter what. Its a easy job untill someone put longer axles on it lol.
Do you happen to know CV axle seal number?
@@paragliya7955 I would contact your local parts store and have them get you the correct part.
Don't even know if my comment will help me, but I guess i'll explain my problem anyway. The ball joint won't go back into the knuckle, it'll line up horizontally, but not vertically. Tried loosening up the lower control arm, sway bar link, and strut to no avail. The CV Axle has to be pushed in all the way, I've at least tried again and again. Tried used the jack to push it in: doesn't work. Tried using a wedge like a pry bar to open up the knuckle: doesn't work. I really don't understand what to do now.
That's a tough one. Without actually seeing it I don't know how much help I'll be. But I do know that there is a slight angle that the lower ball joint has to be put in at and that the CV axle can often be the issue if it won't line up correctly.
@@13sGARAGE Thank you for responding, I figured it out. IT'S THE WRONG CV AXLE. It's longer than the old one. I was in denial until I took it out and put it next to the old one. My fault.
Is this the same process for the passenger side?
@@franciscoherrera9342 for the most part yes, the passenger side will have an extended shaft that will have a center bearing that is typically held in place with two to three bolts.
Thanks for the quick reply brotha. I’m also doing this on a mazda5
The mazda3 is the same car just Mazda5 is minivan style.
Hi i was looking to buy a cv axle on rockauto but i dont find the seal and it doesnt say if it comes with it did yours come with the new axle ?
No the axle seal has to be bought separate.
You don't necessarily have to replace the seal. I just inspected mine, they still looked fine. Obviously be careful putting in the splines so you don't damage the seal.
Look at your local auto part store, i got one for 12$ bucks