One of my biggest mental blocks with Chinese watches is the branding; most are either faux European names or nonsensical letter mashups. I appreciate that this brand name is embracing what it actually is...a Chinese brand. There isn't the same stigma associated with Chinese brands that there used to be, and in fact they are now associated with quality construction and good value (at least with the better brands, although the value proposition seems to be slipping lately). This one isn't for me, just too large for my wrist, but it's ok overall.
@@RelativeTime In theory, I think it would look nicer with just the Chinese characters. In practice, I'd just have to point at the dial if someone asked what brand it was if it was purely Chinese. I suppose they could just put the name on the case back though.
I bought the War Drum and here's my take. I was shopping for a watch, look at retail stores, a lot online and I could not make up my mind. I like the divers watch but wanted a pilot watch. For me, a pilot watch is just more readable when I ride my motorcycle. The War Drum 46 mm is my cup of tea, reminds me of a pocket watch on a bracelet and I love that. Unfortunately, the 46mm it came out just after I bought the 42 mm. Life's like that.
No one can argue that San Martin makes very high quality watches. Build quality rivals microbrands, Seiko, and European brands. Great value! But I never desired their mostly homage offerings. That changed when they launched their all original and Chinese styled branding. I bought the War Drum after first sight. Unique and original and the fit and finish is brilliant and remarkable at this price range! I didn't hesitate to order their 2nd offering, Deep Challenger GMT after seeing sneak peeks of its bracelet, and styling. It is remarkable. Brilliant quality. Similar DNA queues to the War Drum. Polish and brushing details are exquisite. Competes with watches 10x the price. Surprisingly comfortable on my 6.5" wrist. the bracelet is a work of art. The bezel is bidirectional and has a spring ball dedent feel like a lens on a Leica camera. Precise! Are they perfect? No. And style is subjective. I would have preferred the date window at 6 o'clock position for cleaner symmetry. I also have my own ideas for a more pleasing handset. And would have liked another Chinese engraving instead for the case back. Instead of a submersible. Those are subjective opinions. But the first edition has more pluses than negatives. The watch gains 7 sec. per day. Pretty good! A Ti version would be awesome. Especially with a true GMT Miyota movement. Add a porcelain pattern dial it would be killer.
@ … yup… has ‘em on his DF 47 & DF Dive Tanks… I bought the big teal DF Dive Tank… the textured dial, textured bezel infill & band are all teal… i luv it…!!! if u wanna c em have 2 look on youtube not website cos they’re all sold out… 👍😊👊💥
I really like the War Drum apart from the size and lug design. I'm really not into large divers, but there are some features to this that I like. The dial they are teasing looks very interesting, I just hope it is a bit smaller. Great review, it was interesting to hear your thoughts on this one.
Agree about the bezel, and the 3 o’clock marker next to the date, in my eyes, appears to be facing the wrong direction. I like big chunky dive watches, this one is close for me, but not quite there. I’ll pass but watch with interest to see how the brand develops.
The brand's name pronounced like John Hoo-en, literally mean the spirit of craftsman. I wish they can fix the font of their logo, otherwise it's good. Love that Yachtmaster vibe with a bit more touch on the dial pattern and the bracelet making it not a straight homage. Hope to see more colourways in the future. Definitely interested in! Thanks for the nice video.
What I really like: I actually like the bezel color, style, and that chunky design to make it easy to get ahold of and turn. I really like the bracelet design but I would want a smaller clasp. I like the indices and chapter ring those are cool, would like a no date version. Edit: I don't like that hand design at all the arrow/diamonds just look weird IMHO same reason I'll never purchase a tutor. However in this price range if a person just loves everything else and bought the watch at least you could mod the hands via replacements
I like the quality of San Martin, I also think that using a Chinese name is not a bad thing, I might actually buy one the Jianghun label, I don’t mind the NH movement, but the Myota movement might be a better choice in anything more expensive than what this will retail for.
It seems like there may be an NH burnout happening. But at this price, I think it's still solidly in the NH territory. Although I think they are listening as they are talking about a swiss movement in an upgraded one, and the new hot San Martin has a 9015.
Apologies Shane. But it looks like San Martin has taken their styling cues from some of Invicta's less conventional models. Nothing matches. The hands are way too thin whilst trying to mimic (unsuccessfully) the Tudor snow flake design. Then there's the bezel ' very yacht masteresque. Sea Master wave dial!? Overall, more of a Franken watch than a Franken watch 😅 Great video as usual.
In some ways. That's why I mentioned the one Johnny Cash song. Where he works for Cadillac and steals different parts over a couple decades from different models to build his own. The hour hand is sort of a snowflake but they squished it into an arrow. A little odd, but I think it's still better than a Tudor Ranger hour hand. That one is just wrong.
Thank you for this very good and unbiased review. The watch is not my taste, but that is personal. The branding is however a no-go for me. The hightlight of the video was the quick glance at the Formex REEF. ;-)
I didn’t really like this watch until you brought up the Monster. And I realize I love the Monster. I’m going to have to give this a second look. Thanks for the great review and making me realize, I may actually like this watch a lot more than I thought I did. Of course. I just worked a graveyard shift, and I may be a little sleep deprived…😅
No. Heard about it though. I've seen so many sub / black bay homages over the years I don't do a video on them unless there something really interesting about it.
@ In my opinion it’s solid for the price (although, scratchy emblem on the case back on this one, also). I can’t see spending thousands for the genuine article. You’d probably do a hard pass on the Steeldive.
My only real criticism is that I think they need to work on the design of the hour hand. Notwithstanding that, I think there is a disconnect with a "proudly Chinese" brand using Japanese (and potentially Swiss) movements. I realize that from a practical perspective, Japanese and Swiss movements probably mean fewer warranty claims.
Plus the perception of Chinese movements isn't great. On the website, they mentioned setting up an in-house shop for the bracelet as no one else does anything like it. Maybe they should set up their own movement shop to make their own PT5000. If they do that they could control the quality.
I don’t see the purpose of the lumed pip on the left side of the date window. It really looks out of place especially during your lume shot. They should’ve deleted it or move the date window inward and put the pip on the right side next to chapter ring.
1. I don't like tbe bezel on each of their first offerrings. 2. I think the price point is high for a standard Seiko movement in a factory brand watch. 3. I admit I don't macro my watches; I either like them or I don't. 4. I think speaking of new releases in terms of original design as an amalgam of existing watch designs can be disingenuous at times. But it's ok to not call yourself original, at least to me. If you can can finish and sell an "homage" at a much better by all means market that. 5. Overall, I will pass on this watch. Love the dial and the bracelet, do not like that Yachtmaster bezel. Hell, I don't even like it on the Yachtmaster.
Possibly. I was assuming that was a starting point of a negotiation, but we will see. Although I have heard from a couple microbrands that they are already looking at switching to "Swiss made" as it would be more cost effective. Again have to wait and see, but some drastic changes may be coming. Especially for the AliExpress brands.
I’m tired of constantly seeing NH movements going for more than three hundred dollars in these Chinese watches. Throw a miyota 9k movement in it and I might buy it. Otherwise it’s a no from me.
You can find 9015s around this price range, but it's rare. Although if they can figure out a way, it would sell well. I think that's one reason the new San Martin is selling so well. It also worked well for Phoibos back in the day. About 6 years ago they had the original Eagle Ray with a 9015. It was the cheapest watch you could find it in, and helped put them on the map.
@@dahak972 I remember that one from a long time ago. Suprised they are still making it, but for that price that's crazy. I mean if you wanted to buy a 9015 by itself your looking at least $80
It's under 400$ , and jugde by that the truth is no European can match it. But Chinese watches simply cannot make watches with great designs. They steal design this one looks like a Cartier diver from the side, and the dail Omega.
The hands are disproportionately small on these models, and the designs and dimensions seem to try and appeal to the American ThAt'S a WoMaN'S WaTcH crowd while showcasing Chinese design elements. It's an odd juxtaposition. I'll stick with SM's "original" takes on divers and GADA watches over this new sister brand.
In some ways it's kind of an interesting experiment to watch. As for years, everybody was asking them to make more original designs. So now that they're doing it , we get to see what happens.
@@RelativeTime Maybe those who asked for original designs should have specified “good original designs”. This is just plain bad, it’s amateurish by any possible standards.
Use Code: RT30 for $30 off
GMT: www.jianghunwatch.com/products/jh0202g-g
Diver: www.jianghunwatch.com/products/jh0201g
One of my biggest mental blocks with Chinese watches is the branding; most are either faux European names or nonsensical letter mashups. I appreciate that this brand name is embracing what it actually is...a Chinese brand. There isn't the same stigma associated with Chinese brands that there used to be, and in fact they are now associated with quality construction and good value (at least with the better brands, although the value proposition seems to be slipping lately).
This one isn't for me, just too large for my wrist, but it's ok overall.
agreed. id appreciate it even more if it had chinese characters as the brand name instead of the english romanization
Do you think it'd be better if it was just the character on the Dial? I don't think they necessarily need the English translated name below.
@@RelativeTime In theory, I think it would look nicer with just the Chinese characters. In practice, I'd just have to point at the dial if someone asked what brand it was if it was purely Chinese. I suppose they could just put the name on the case back though.
@@MichaelConnell1 just do what they did with Prince. Point to the symbol and say it's the watch brand "formerly known as San Martin." 😁
I bought the War Drum and here's my take. I was shopping for a watch, look at retail stores, a lot online and I could not make up my mind. I like the divers watch but wanted a pilot watch. For me, a pilot watch is just more readable when I ride my motorcycle. The War Drum 46 mm is my cup of tea, reminds me of a pocket watch on a bracelet and I love that. Unfortunately, the 46mm it came out just after I bought the 42 mm. Life's like that.
No one can argue that San Martin makes very high quality watches. Build quality rivals microbrands, Seiko, and European brands. Great value! But I never desired their mostly homage offerings.
That changed when they launched their all original and Chinese styled branding. I bought the War Drum after first sight. Unique and original and the fit and finish is brilliant and remarkable at this price range! I didn't hesitate to order their 2nd offering, Deep Challenger GMT after seeing sneak peeks of its bracelet, and styling. It is remarkable. Brilliant quality. Similar DNA queues to the War Drum. Polish and brushing details are exquisite. Competes with watches 10x the price. Surprisingly comfortable on my 6.5" wrist. the bracelet is a work of art. The bezel is bidirectional and has a spring ball dedent feel like a lens on a Leica camera. Precise!
Are they perfect? No. And style is subjective. I would have preferred the date window at 6 o'clock position for cleaner symmetry. I also have my own ideas for a more pleasing handset. And would have liked another Chinese engraving instead for the case back. Instead of a submersible. Those are subjective opinions. But the first edition has more pluses than negatives. The watch gains 7 sec. per day. Pretty good! A Ti version would be awesome. Especially with a true GMT Miyota movement. Add a porcelain pattern dial it would be killer.
I love San Martin and their homage watches. When it comes to their original designs, I have yet to find one I like. This watch is no exception.
Black ceramic bezel would have been awesome!!!
Kool … a bit Aragon-ish… luv the bezel… 😎
Now that you mention it, it does look a little Aragon. I think Wing likes this type of bezel too.
@ … yup… has ‘em on his DF 47 & DF Dive Tanks… I bought the big teal DF Dive Tank… the textured dial, textured bezel infill & band are all teal… i luv it…!!! if u wanna c em have 2 look on youtube not website cos they’re all sold out… 👍😊👊💥
A+ for the Johnny Cash reference. It was spot on.
I really like the War Drum apart from the size and lug design. I'm really not into large divers, but there are some features to this that I like. The dial they are teasing looks very interesting, I just hope it is a bit smaller. Great review, it was interesting to hear your thoughts on this one.
The bezel remind me of the Blancpain 2250-1130-71 or the Seiko Brightz 5M65-0A80
Agree about the bezel, and the 3 o’clock marker next to the date, in my eyes, appears to be facing the wrong direction. I like big chunky dive watches, this one is close for me, but not quite there. I’ll pass but watch with interest to see how the brand develops.
Blancpain FF GMT - look it up!
Other than the bezel I don't see it.
Not bad for the price
The brand's name pronounced like John Hoo-en, literally mean the spirit of craftsman.
I wish they can fix the font of their logo, otherwise it's good. Love that Yachtmaster vibe with a bit more touch on the dial pattern and the bracelet making it not a straight homage. Hope to see more colourways in the future. Definitely interested in!
Thanks for the nice video.
What I really like:
I actually like the bezel color, style, and that chunky design to make it easy to get ahold of and turn.
I really like the bracelet design but I would want a smaller clasp.
I like the indices and chapter ring those are cool, would like a no date version.
Edit: I don't like that hand design at all the arrow/diamonds just look weird IMHO same reason I'll never purchase a tutor.
However in this price range if a person just loves everything else and bought the watch at least you could mod the hands via replacements
I like the quality of San Martin, I also think that using a Chinese name is not a bad thing, I might actually buy one the Jianghun label, I don’t mind the NH movement, but the Myota movement might be a better choice in anything more expensive than what this will retail for.
It seems like there may be an NH burnout happening. But at this price, I think it's still solidly in the NH territory. Although I think they are listening as they are talking about a swiss movement in an upgraded one, and the new hot San Martin has a 9015.
Apologies Shane. But it looks like San Martin has taken their styling cues from some of Invicta's less conventional models. Nothing matches.
The hands are way too thin whilst trying to mimic (unsuccessfully) the Tudor snow flake design.
Then there's the bezel ' very yacht masteresque.
Sea Master wave dial!?
Overall, more of a Franken watch than a Franken watch 😅
Great video as usual.
In some ways. That's why I mentioned the one Johnny Cash song. Where he works for Cadillac and steals different parts over a couple decades from different models to build his own. The hour hand is sort of a snowflake but they squished it into an arrow. A little odd, but I think it's still better than a Tudor Ranger hour hand. That one is just wrong.
Reminds of a invita x Vostok love child gone wrong .
Thank you for this very good and unbiased review. The watch is not my taste, but that is personal. The branding is however a no-go for me. The hightlight of the video was the quick glance at the Formex REEF. ;-)
I see brotato in the background, nice.
LOL yeah. Good eye.
I didn’t really like this watch until you brought up the Monster. And I realize I love the Monster. I’m going to have to give this a second look. Thanks for the great review and making me realize, I may actually like this watch a lot more than I thought I did. Of course. I just worked a graveyard shift, and I may be a little sleep deprived…😅
LOL. Yeah get some sleep first before ever ordering anything. I've made a few late night orders myself, and they don't always work out.
Have you looked at the Steeldive SD1953?
No. Heard about it though. I've seen so many sub / black bay homages over the years I don't do a video on them unless there something really interesting about it.
@ In my opinion it’s solid for the price (although, scratchy emblem on the case back on this one, also). I can’t see spending thousands for the genuine article. You’d probably do a hard pass on the Steeldive.
I like the design of the case, bezel and bracelet and the dial texture. Not so much the hands and indices.
My only real criticism is that I think they need to work on the design of the hour hand. Notwithstanding that, I think there is a disconnect with a "proudly Chinese" brand using Japanese (and potentially Swiss) movements. I realize that from a practical perspective, Japanese and Swiss movements probably mean fewer warranty claims.
Plus the perception of Chinese movements isn't great. On the website, they mentioned setting up an in-house shop for the bracelet as no one else does anything like it. Maybe they should set up their own movement shop to make their own PT5000. If they do that they could control the quality.
This is much better than their first watch. Somehow, I don't like the indices and the hands. Thanks for the review.
Helldivers 2 set dressing gets an auto like
👍 for liberty!
Love the branding, love the quality, not a fan of the design
I don’t see the purpose of the lumed pip on the left side of the date window. It really looks out of place especially during your lume shot. They should’ve deleted it or move the date window inward and put the pip on the right side next to chapter ring.
True. Or maybe rotate it 180 degrees. That way it at least matches the shape/direction of the column index on the other side.
Hideous hour hand and a mess with the marker at the date window
The hand is sort of like a snowflake but squished to look a little like an arrow.
Truly original isn't necessarily a blessing. Check out Invicta sometime... 😂
This is true. The more original you get, the more creative you get, the smaller your customer base gets.
One of my best friends loves San Martin and Chinese watches in general- he absolutely loves this watch but I genuinely think it’s atrocious
Its not really a diver is it? Its good that it is trying to be original.
Well Dive style GMT then, but the non gmt version is a diver.
1. I don't like tbe bezel on each of their first offerrings.
2. I think the price point is high for a standard Seiko movement in a factory brand watch.
3. I admit I don't macro my watches; I either like them or I don't.
4. I think speaking of new releases in terms of original design as an amalgam of existing watch designs can be disingenuous at times. But it's ok to not call yourself original, at least to me. If you can can finish and sell an "homage" at a much better by all means market that.
5. Overall, I will pass on this watch. Love the dial and the bracelet, do not like that Yachtmaster bezel. Hell, I don't even like it on the Yachtmaster.
Design is not that bad but definitely not original. Its a big fat NO from me to a chinese watch
Do you think it's copying something specific? Or just derivative... Like they borrowed from other things?
@@RelativeTime Bezel says Explorer and the dial says Seamaster
Soon to get a 60% tariff imposed.
Possibly. I was assuming that was a starting point of a negotiation, but we will see.
Although I have heard from a couple microbrands that they are already looking at switching to "Swiss made" as it would be more cost effective.
Again have to wait and see, but some drastic changes may be coming. Especially for the AliExpress brands.
Fomega😅😅
I’m tired of constantly seeing NH movements going for more than three hundred dollars in these Chinese watches. Throw a miyota 9k movement in it and I might buy it. Otherwise it’s a no from me.
You can find 9015s around this price range, but it's rare. Although if they can figure out a way, it would sell well. I think that's one reason the new San Martin is selling so well. It also worked well for Phoibos back in the day. About 6 years ago they had the original Eagle Ray with a 9015. It was the cheapest watch you could find it in, and helped put them on the map.
@ I just picked up a Cadisen Sapphire Diamond with a 9015 for $96. Regular price $106. It’s a fantastic value for the money.
@@dahak972 I remember that one from a long time ago. Suprised they are still making it, but for that price that's crazy. I mean if you wanted to buy a 9015 by itself your looking at least $80
No thanks 👎
It's under 400$ , and jugde by that the truth is no European can match it. But Chinese watches simply cannot make watches with great designs. They steal design this one looks like a Cartier diver from the side, and the dail Omega.
No,no,no thanks! Not for me, maybe the Asian market?
The hands are disproportionately small on these models, and the designs and dimensions seem to try and appeal to the American ThAt'S a WoMaN'S WaTcH crowd while showcasing Chinese design elements. It's an odd juxtaposition. I'll stick with SM's "original" takes on divers and GADA watches over this new sister brand.
That is the reason I have not bought a san martrin original. Hands are too thin.
In some ways it's kind of an interesting experiment to watch. As for years, everybody was asking them to make more original designs. So now that they're doing it , we get to see what happens.
@@RelativeTime
Maybe those who asked for original designs should have specified “good original designs”. This is just plain bad, it’s amateurish by any possible standards.
Too heavy and nothing special here.
Straight up ugly. There is no need to review this or similar watches.
What do you mean by similar watches? Type, brand, similar aesthetics?