You are awesome! Thank you for finally doing this video. I tell people all the time this is one of the most overlooked problem areas people know nothing about but then claim they know motors. It’s so important in multiple ways to make sure that ring gap is right. Thank you for explaining this to everyone
Last time i got a set of cp pistons from You guys. I follow the paper with the instructions and I didn’t even had to gap them. They were all in specs already
followed your instructions and my JE Piston rings turned out excellent. Using same grinder, 2nd compression rings only needed 6-10 turns- however the top rings took 35-50 revolutions to remove material
Although many people dismiss ring squaring tools as pointless, I prefer using a ring squaring tool to using a piston. First of all, pistons can rock, especially when only the top part is used to square the ring. This can cause the ring to not be square, which will cause the gap measurement to be too large. Also, by using a piston, you can possibly scratch the skirt coating by using it as a squaring tool.
Very good instructional video. I have one question. When adjusting the ring gap, why do you turn the grinding wheel in the direction that would have a tendency to lift the ring off the table? Seems to me it would be better to turn the wheel in the clockwise direction so the table can help support the ring.
People may wonder why sharp edges are not good for longevity. You will notice on tier one components that they’re generally very smooth. Reasoning that cracks always start at what’s called a stress riser. Stress risers are basically sharp edges, points and even inside corrosion pitting. You you ever observe corrosion like rust you know that it leaves peaks and valleys and an nonuniform surface after the oxidation happens. Think of why someone would de burr a block or piston. Removing material. Would make it less strong right? No way taking those potential places away for cracks to start will make your piece stronger. Just like on a bolt that brakes from like an over torque or plastic deformation. It’s generally in the bottom of a cut thread bc there is a sharp angle down there. And the cutting of the threads it’s self clips away the grain structure of the material. This is way some company’s go ahead and roll the threads kind of like a forging. It’s tedious and not very fun but it’s worth the extra work. Keep your mind open. There are generally many ways to achieve a goal. A good example of debur for strength is on a crank shaft in the fillet area or the oil holes. They will radius them and it drastically increases strength. Bc they took away a place for the crack to start. I am a geek and geek out of silly things like that but to a true student and enthusiast, it may be worth the brain room to explore this area of mechanics. Another builder could use the exact same parts as jay and not have the same results for this reason. All the little things in the end add up to a good piece. Stay free out there peeps. And ffs lets get some more e85 pumps in Kansas City please lol.
I'm building a Volvo motor with an 83mm bore, Wiseco pistons and total seal rings. Total seal documentation recommends a 0.026" gap for my 30+ psi boost application, whereas Wiseco recommends a 0.020" gap. I am going to go ahead with the 0.026" gap, but it seems very large for the bore size. So watching your video you indicate that blow by won't be an issue with a bigger gap, what about for 0.026" vs 0.020"? Thanks.
Sean may i ask what block your using please... 5 or 6 cyc block ? keen as i'm planning out my build of my 2004 v50 2.5T as I've had her long enough she get promoted to toy. lol Been keen if you could offer a little advance on the strongest 5 cyc block to use as they seem to all have weak spots any advice would be awesomely helpful.
@@Ricky-nq7lu s60 T5 motors are the strongest, because they have 81mm bores. B5234T7, and B5244T5. I'm using darton sleeves in a 2004 B5254T4, which is what I would recommend to you. The S60 T5 blocks are rare. Just use your B5254T3, as long as you have cared for it, it will be great with darton sleeves.
@@Ricky-nq7lu you might be able to get away with a basic shim kit for 500whp, (www.deeworks.ca/product/volvo-whiteblock-5-6-cylinder-liner-shim-kit/). Or you could go with a block guard and shim kit to be even safer, (www.deeworks.ca/product/5-6-cylinder-whiteblock-block-guard-cnc-cylinder-support/). The darton sleeves will definitely be the most reliable though.
At 11:30 you mention the large second ring gap to ensure no gas is trapped, is that a theoretical consideration or have you confirmed that with ring using the same gap cold ? I ask that because in practical terms the top ring dissipates quite a bit more heat from the piston to the bore than the second ring and thus the top ring being hotter could in theory at running temperatures have a smaller ring gap than the cooler second ring, thus satisfying the need you state of having a larger end gap on the second ring to ensure no trapped gases.
I have a 4.6 dohc modular engine and i filed my top and second rings to .025 because I plan on supercharging in the future is it safe for me to run the engine with these ring gaps until i supercharge it?
What about measuring the ring gap while it's located where it will reside in the cylinder at TDC? Meaning like, don't measure the ring gap at the very top of the bore, or down at the very bottom of the bore. From what I understand, the top of the block gets hotter and therefore experiences more thermal expansion.
I know a lot of racers say they use zero gap rings, but yesterday I had a racer say that he runs his engine with only the top ring and not the bottom ring cuz it cuts down on friction.... of course he uses the oil ring.... what do you think of his method? This is a 417 c.i SBC what is the advantage and disadvantages of this?
I have a question. Let's say I'm building a fairly rare V8 engine and I was able to find 20 over pistons and 30 over rings. Wouldn't it be safe just to file the piston rings down a hair to get the gap correct?
I don’t think you can do that. For some reason it seems like I tried to do that with a sbc, I believe it was too much tension I never even got it in the bore. I’m not saying it’s not possible though
Question for Jay from Real Street. I'm building a 9.1 compression 351w that will be turbocharged. My plan is 20-25lbs of boost would you recommend the same ring gap measurements as shown in your video
When you say that the top ring is at 20 and the second at 25, what would that written value look like? I read all the comments and I do not see any response from the channel.
Depends on the block, some engines want you to push the ring less than an inch from the bottom of the bore, some in the middle, some in the upper 1/3rd.
I want to ask for a diesel engine such as the Isuzu C 190 Gap Gap piston ring in the cylinder is the minimum and the maximum is how many m.m when measured using a feler I am amazed by your explanation but I do not understand your language. Subtitles should be given for several languages. so there is a language text. Thank you. Darmawan- Indonesia
When making more power than factory the pistons get a lot hotter, and when doing so the rings expand further than intended. If you don't have extra gap to account for that expansion then it causes the ring to bend therefore cracking your piston.
So, you say it's better to go bigger... But, there is obviously a too big... How much bigger would be acceptable? 1 thou? 2? 3? Where are we at here?? Lol
So, first you're grinding an asymmetric surface onto that ring it dosn't match the other side I guarantee, 2nd you don't clean the abrasive off the ring before measuring but you talk about .001 ths of an inch ( ! ), 3 rd you use a piston to " center the ring" making each measurement non comparable to the previous because the Pistons gap to the cylinder is too large to control by hand. How do I know? Not only was I an engineer manufacturing parts with 10 thousandths of an inch tolerance I was the crew chief on an NHRA dragster. Seeing this, if your engine doesn't run right I'd bet it's not the piston rings.....yikes......
I could watch tech tip vids like this all day! 🤓
hands down one of the best in the game, kudos to Jay so lucky to have him local!!!
Woot, Jay's back at it again with his Jay's Tech Tip. Can't believe it!
You are awesome! Thank you for finally doing this video. I tell people all the time this is one of the most overlooked problem areas people know nothing about but then claim they know motors. It’s so important in multiple ways to make sure that ring gap is right. Thank you for explaining this to everyone
Wooowww! A 14 minute tech tip! Thanks Jay!
Last time i got a set of cp pistons from
You guys. I follow the paper with the instructions and I didn’t even had to gap them. They were all in specs already
Thank you for taking the time to make some more of theses yidya's!
I see a jays tech tip , I smash LIKE
Jay makes engine building look easy.....
followed your instructions and my JE Piston rings turned out excellent. Using same grinder, 2nd compression rings only needed 6-10 turns- however the top rings took 35-50 revolutions to remove material
Yay, Jay's Tech Tips are back.
Love the shared knowledge/learning from Real Street
Although many people dismiss ring squaring tools as pointless, I prefer using a ring squaring tool to using a piston. First of all, pistons can rock, especially when only the top part is used to square the ring. This can cause the ring to not be square, which will cause the gap measurement to be too large. Also, by using a piston, you can possibly scratch the skirt coating by using it as a squaring tool.
havent seen one of these vids for a while!! nice
I'm about to build a boosted 302 this definitely helped
Very good instructional video. I have one question. When adjusting the ring gap, why do you turn the grinding wheel in the direction that would have a tendency to lift the ring off the table? Seems to me it would be better to turn the wheel in the clockwise direction so the table can help support the ring.
He explains this at 13:10 in the video.
Some of the rings are nitrated and can chip easily if you load the ring against the cutter.
People may wonder why sharp edges are not good for longevity. You will notice on tier one components that they’re generally very smooth. Reasoning that cracks always start at what’s called a stress riser. Stress risers are basically sharp edges, points and even inside corrosion pitting. You you ever observe corrosion like rust you know that it leaves peaks and valleys and an nonuniform surface after the oxidation happens. Think of why someone would de burr a block or piston. Removing material. Would make it less strong right? No way taking those potential places away for cracks to start will make your piece stronger. Just like on a bolt that brakes from like an over torque or plastic deformation. It’s generally in the bottom of a cut thread bc there is a sharp angle down there. And the cutting of the threads it’s self clips away the grain structure of the material. This is way some company’s go ahead and roll the threads kind of like a forging. It’s tedious and not very fun but it’s worth the extra work. Keep your mind open. There are generally many ways to achieve a goal. A good example of debur for strength is on a crank shaft in the fillet area or the oil holes. They will radius them and it drastically increases strength. Bc they took away a place for the crack to start. I am a geek and geek out of silly things like that but to a true student and enthusiast, it may be worth the brain room to explore this area of mechanics. Another builder could use the exact same parts as jay and not have the same results for this reason. All the little things in the end add up to a good piece. Stay free out there peeps. And ffs lets get some more e85 pumps in Kansas City please lol.
thanks for the additional info
I'm building a Volvo motor with an 83mm bore, Wiseco pistons and total seal rings. Total seal documentation recommends a 0.026" gap for my 30+ psi boost application, whereas Wiseco recommends a 0.020" gap. I am going to go ahead with the 0.026" gap, but it seems very large for the bore size. So watching your video you indicate that blow by won't be an issue with a bigger gap, what about for 0.026" vs 0.020"?
Thanks.
30lbs is a lot.
I would definitely favor the bigger gap.
Sean may i ask what block your using please... 5 or 6 cyc block ? keen as i'm planning out my build of my 2004 v50 2.5T as I've had her long enough she get promoted to toy. lol
Been keen if you could offer a little advance on the strongest 5 cyc block to use as they seem to all have weak spots any advice would be awesomely helpful.
@@Ricky-nq7lu s60 T5 motors are the strongest, because they have 81mm bores. B5234T7, and B5244T5. I'm using darton sleeves in a 2004 B5254T4, which is what I would recommend to you. The S60 T5 blocks are rare. Just use your B5254T3, as long as you have cared for it, it will be great with darton sleeves.
@@turbovolvos40 Grateful Sean I'm only looking for around 500 whp as that would be heaps for a daily plus track car.
@@Ricky-nq7lu you might be able to get away with a basic shim kit for 500whp, (www.deeworks.ca/product/volvo-whiteblock-5-6-cylinder-liner-shim-kit/). Or you could go with a block guard and shim kit to be even safer, (www.deeworks.ca/product/5-6-cylinder-whiteblock-block-guard-cnc-cylinder-support/). The darton sleeves will definitely be the most reliable though.
Excellent thank you!
At 11:30 you mention the large second ring gap to ensure no gas is trapped, is that a theoretical consideration or have you confirmed that with ring using the same gap cold ?
I ask that because in practical terms the top ring dissipates quite a bit more heat from the piston to the bore than the second ring and thus the top ring being hotter could in theory at running temperatures have a smaller ring gap than the cooler second ring, thus satisfying the need you state of having a larger end gap on the second ring to ensure no trapped gases.
I have a 4.6 dohc modular engine and i filed my top and second rings to .025 because I plan on supercharging in the future is it safe for me to run the engine with these ring gaps until i supercharge it?
What about measuring the ring gap while it's located where it will reside in the cylinder at TDC? Meaning like, don't measure the ring gap at the very top of the bore, or down at the very bottom of the bore.
From what I understand, the top of the block gets hotter and therefore experiences more thermal expansion.
There are also engine builders who say to set them deeper in the cylinder than tdc area for gapping.
smart man job well done..
What’s a good ring gap for a LQ9 6.0 Stock bottom end turbo motor please help me
I know a lot of racers say they use zero gap rings, but yesterday I had a racer say that he runs his engine with only the top ring and not the bottom ring cuz it cuts down on friction.... of course he uses the oil ring.... what do you think of his method? This is a 417 c.i SBC what is the advantage and disadvantages of this?
I have a question. Let's say I'm building a fairly rare V8 engine and I was able to find 20 over pistons and 30 over rings. Wouldn't it be safe just to file the piston rings down a hair to get the gap correct?
I don’t think you can do that. For some reason it seems like I tried to do that with a sbc, I believe it was too much tension I never even got it in the bore. I’m not saying it’s not possible though
Awesome video.. does any modification need to be done to the oil control ring (the wavy one).. putting new pistons and rods in an ls3.
Those gap tolerance. Where are you getting those number from?
at 6:10 is he filing the ring in a upward motion instead of a downward motion against the machine like he said? Or is it just the way it looks for me
Question for Jay from Real Street. I'm building a 9.1 compression 351w that will be turbocharged. My plan is 20-25lbs of boost would you recommend the same ring gap measurements as shown in your video
Follow the piston manufacturers specs. They typically call for so many thousandths per inch of bore diameter.
Hi can you file the oil rings? they are so thin.
I would love to know wat are the strongest piston rings for a kseries???
When you say that the top ring is at 20 and the second at 25, what would that written value look like? I read all the comments and I do not see any response from the channel.
tenths of a millimeter.
so what do we put ring gap to on a 2jz
how deep should the ring be when squaring it? is it the same as all other ring?
Depends on the block, some engines want you to push the ring less than an inch from the bottom of the bore, some in the middle, some in the upper 1/3rd.
I want to ask for a diesel engine such as the Isuzu C 190 Gap Gap piston ring in the cylinder is the minimum and the maximum is how many m.m when measured using a feler
I am amazed by your explanation but I do not understand your language. Subtitles should be given for several languages. so there is a language text. Thank you.
Darmawan- Indonesia
Where can I find that file ?
what's the point in increasing the end gap? someone care to explain?
Increasing if from what?
When making more power than factory the pistons get a lot hotter, and when doing so the rings expand further than intended. If you don't have extra gap to account for that expansion then it causes the ring to bend therefore cracking your piston.
@@fraxonthefurry21 Thank you. That makes sence
@@toddisawsomeable 👍 np
Man no disrespect, but he looks like Max Keiser of the max Keiser report
Can I buy a Real St neon sign?
i think you mean impossible to put material back.. If it's just hard.. LMK how to do it, because hard sounds easy compared to impossible.
So, you say it's better to go bigger... But, there is obviously a too big... How much bigger would be acceptable? 1 thou? 2? 3? Where are we at here?? Lol
First
So, first you're grinding an asymmetric surface onto that ring it dosn't match the other side I guarantee, 2nd you don't clean the abrasive off the ring before measuring but you talk about .001 ths of an inch ( ! ), 3 rd you use a piston to " center the ring" making each measurement non comparable to the previous because the Pistons gap to the cylinder is too large to control by hand. How do I know? Not only was I an engineer manufacturing parts with 10 thousandths of an inch tolerance I was the crew chief on an NHRA dragster. Seeing this, if your engine doesn't run right I'd bet it's not the piston rings.....yikes......