TRICK to find PIPE LENGTH for Chainsaw; CONFIRMED!! Dyno and HEAT Results
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- I show an OLD SCHOOL hack to find the proper pipe length for a chainsaw muffler; it worked on 4 stroke engines; how about 2 stroke powersaw engines?
IMPORTANT: Everything I do on this channel is for entertainment purposes and to satisfy my OWN curiosity and at my OWN risk. Under no circumstances will Hay Chaff and Sawdust RUclips Channel be responsible or liable if you decide to re-create or duplicate what I do. Hay Chaff and Sawdust assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk.
We can now measure heat in the engine while the engine is under a constant and specific (although variable) load. This new feature is allowing us explore how heat is effected by IGNITION TIMING, Muffler Mods, Tuned pipes, SINGLE RING VS TWO RING, Spark Plug ranges, etc... the possibilities are endless. As with anything, I'm sure that there will be growing pains and adjustments to be needed. I believe we need to fine-tune how long the chainsaw should be “loaded” (test period) ; we also need to determine a standard temp for a starting point.
This will/should remove ANOTHER variable from the HP/TQ results on the dyno; I can get a higher HP reading by doing the dyno test while the saw's engine is cooler (as the saw gets warmer and warmer, it makes marginally less and less HP.. we can negate that by warming to a specific temp each time.
I think this is exciting and I am absolute that I have never seen this capability displayed on youtube or internet; I think we (you and I) are the first to have this breakthrough!
This is the continuation of the Stihl 026 Build which we are doing step-by-step.
Current Numbers 3rd Cyl
98 Exhaust
68.5 (137) Intake
120 Xfers (22 BD)
.018 Squish
We are currently testing Muffler Mods and have another round (or two) of muffler mods to test. After that , we will test (order has not been determined yet) Ignition Timing, Single Ring, (possibly/probably) Finger Ports
Stay tuned for further modifications and results.
There is a playlist with the build to this point as well as text cuts and dyno results. Subscribe to continue to see the continuing build of this powersaw and progress results on the dynomometer.
Subscribe to continue to see Chainsaw porting and modifications, how we make Firewood, run the Sawmill, Bale Hay, tend to our Sheep, Hogs, Cattle, Peacocks, Chickens, Guineas, and Doggos. You will also see me making gadgets, tools, and other stuff to make farmlife easier on this homestead.
I don't waste much of anything... especially resources! If there is a way to do something cheaper or easier, I'm searching for it.
Contact me in the comments and/or contact me on Facebook at Everystuff Farming and/or everystufffarming@gmail.com
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Thanks for spending your valuable time with us.
Not very smart....says the guy who came up with his own saw dyno amongst all the other things. Brother your wisdom and creativity is a blessing to all of us. Absolutely love your sense of humor too. Keep'em coming!
@gasaxecustomsaws 🤣😂😂 I still hold that I'm none too smart... I'm DETERMINED though... Keep making mistakes until I have a happy accident! 😁
Glad you are enjoying yourself here and extra glad you take some of your valuable time to comment!
FYI; I wouldn't admit to too many people that you "get" my sense of humor unless you want to go halvesies on one of them white hug-yourself-jackets that's all the rage!! 🤣🤣
Got more on the way!!
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 🤣 You're killing me!
Just a guess, what you have going on is more of a header than expansion chamber. The heat gain/loss is probably related to exhaust scavenging and the hot spot probably changes location with rpm.
@Super-Dave-Outdoors Awesome point!! I thought about that after i did the test and considered the RPM/distance of hot-spot relationship... I had already pooed the scrooch at that point!
Further, i agree on the expansion chamber; I consider (probably incorrectly) that ANY muffler is too small to make a proper expansion chamber in which sound waves play the major roll. I'm attempting (maybe in vain) to understand it from strictly a volume of exhaust gas while ignoring the science (bad practice I know) of the sound waves... not convinced they apply to this small of a can-style muffler. The next saw video of reducing can volume REALLY worked on some and didn't on others.
When I started working on saws I was often-wrong, but never in-doubt; NOW, even if I happen to get something right, I *STILL* question it! 🤯🤯Thanks you so dang much for your insight and input!!!
I'm with super Dave on this one. Believe he explained what is happening with heat and scavenging. From my experience with pipe length and magic dyno feel. Longer pipes favor low end power and shorter pipes respond quicker and like the top of the curve. This is what is so contradictory to 4 stroke exhaust. I've often wondered what divided flange exhaust much like an x or h pipe would do on a saw. Would it act more like a chamber pipe being you are able to truly direct the flow of the exhaust. I know divided flange turbos are consider more efficient spool quicker and create more power when tuned properly. I understand this is done with the pairing of multiple cylinders and creating the same length. Could a single cylinder 2 stroke be " tuned " similarly but using the divided flange approach of a turbo by the x or h pipe design to give you the best of both? 🧐 I think I just scrambled my egg there. Darn rabbit holes got me again.
Hey great series and another great video. Really enjoy your whole approach to your channel and taking in constructive criticisms and feedback. Some people are a bit to P.C but I can see you have the clout to stand and take it. 😆 Nice job! Always a delight. Thanks
You’re way out their ahead of me on all of your dyno testing. Just the fact you built all your test equipment out of what looks like your wife’s ole sewing machines, and Maytag washer/dryer parts shows your ingenuity, but producing the sound information out of that contraption shows your analytical high IQ mind racing out their at the NASA level. I hope the, I hate to say it, “Stihl” Chainsaw engineers invite you to their testing and proving grounds. Me, I’m gonna to wait, like the Chinese Manufacturers , until you prefect it and just copy your work. I am gonna write the Stihl Corporation and ask they give you a free tour of their chainsaw testing plant. Keep up the good work. Ole mountain man
@@eze.Morning_Wood_Farms Aw heck, there's no shame in being ignorant... stoopid is another story. I am soooo far behind most people on saw building it ain't even funny! I've built way less saws in my life that some people build in a day or three...I take no umbrage in being taught by people who are willing to teach me... no matter their delivery (most are super nice though)... I had a career of not being the most popular guy in the room... you're right, I can take it. I think volume (next saw video) is going to open-up some ideas and thoughts to keep the grey matter from stagnating... at least for me. Thanks for being here; hope the dog is keeping them pesky puddle pirates off your pond... looks like he likes the challenge!!!
@@olemountainman3996 My WIFE'S sewing machine... pfft; the old Singer (was my great grandma's in a leather covered box) is mine and I won't let her use it!! The Dyno has parts from a all kinds of gadgets... a homemade PTO generator, feed grinder/mixer, old round baler, etc... The pipes on the saws are made from the tubes from an old office chair and an old ironing board (so far); you've got me pegged!!!! Them Stihls make me look good as there's so much room for improvement; them other saw builders all build Huskys... 10 minutes and they got a ripper; takes me 10 minutes just to get to the air filter on a Stihl 😉😉 Thanks Ole Mountain Man!!
I'm sure we could have a lot of fun if neighbors. Plus my wife would want to play with all your animals. Lol.
I love the testing. I geek out on some odd things, one being exhaust systems and their performance effects, so this is very interesting to me.
@MrJeepfreak1972 I bet we would!!! The animals... man oh man... they keep me on an even (ish) keel.
We are getting pretty far into the weeds on exhaust, but have hardly scratched the surface of combinations; I'm hoping to develop a pattern by which future s.w.a.g.s can be made; have a little more work on testing equip and lots more tests to do before a respectable quantity of reliable data is gathered tho. There's plenty of info (based in science) on tuned pipes which rely (mostly) on sound waves and lots of room; very little on "useable" sized mufflers/pipes... my thinking is that sound waves to no play as much of a part in these. Thanks for being here and joining-in; wish we could have a road-soda and swap lies!!
@@HayChaffandSawdust1
Maybe a future road trip is in order. Lol
@MrJeepfreak1972 Heck yeah! Thinking you Ky?... My lil Sis in Ky and also a Jeep freak! I think she started youtube as well... White Knuckle Nation, I believe. She's got a jeep that LOOKS like a pavement princess... but she goes to stuff and drives it like she stole it. She won some sort of Bounty Hole thing (or somthing... I'm not up on all of the terminology and gtgs for Jeeps) and was featured by some organization...If you happen to stop by her deal, tell her that her brother says Pttttthhhhh 👅😝and thumbs his nose at her.
@@HayChaffandSawdust1
Lol. I'll check out her channel. I'm much farther north than KY. Im in the land shaped like a hand.
This is great. I hope to try something with a pipe like this on my 62cc and 56cc Italian John Deere saws.
You had me laughing out loud at the 9:00 mark!
@jamiewykes8585 I think you should!! It's the first and easiest gains go wring out of a saw.
Glad you got a chuckle!!
I think that offset cylinder is the best thing for practical efficient engine there is and there are so many variables to play with rod ratio etc. I just like to cut trees and don't do all that all out race saw
@richarddodds9326 I also think it has a great ratio of risk/reward; more torque, more hp, less wear on the piston. This saw has an offset cyl (quite a bit after this video) and is actually a VERY mild build; I have not gone extreme on anything, but keep stacking the little easy-to-get gains and it will probably need tamed back down a bit before I turn it loose in the woods and exposed to dull chains and whatnow. THanks for joining-in; this is the first comment from you that I remember... welcome sir!!
Since you are doing mufflers.. I have often debated with a stihl style muffler putting a solid "divider" plate between the halves. Both one that is flat and one that has been hammer formed to protrude into the can on the side opposite of the factory outlet (if a single outlet saw)
The plate would DRASTICALLY reduce can volume, especially the one domed in some towards the hug half, and in my mind might make a can perform more like a pipe as the pressure peak would be higher, but the dwell time shorter. A flat plate would be easy to cut out and test. The hammer formed one less so.. but it might give some insight into can volume. Most factory cans seem to encourage bounceback and swirling with geometry. One could totally F with that with just some 20ga steel sheet and see what happens. If someone made some hammering jigs from hardwood all kinds of internal shapes could be tested.
@mattfleming86 The next chainsaw/dyno video is/will be a reduced-volume can and the results were better on some and worse on others (I think... still getting info into dyno, but gut feeling and watching the numbers on the pull). I have not got it hashed-out in my head NEARLY as well as you. Out of curiosity, how much had you considered reducing the volume?
I agree on hammering out thin stuff to try-out; used @.025" (don't know gauge... was shim stock from a Press job) stuff in the next can to be shown.
I appreciate your comments and getting my ol' grey matter to start stretching it's legs!!
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 Well, the joy of a bolt-in insert that goes between the halves is that the volume can be varied. Don't have an 026 on hand, it's at dad's house, but from memory i'd say a "flat" sheet would probably delete 1/3 of the can volume (just like a bark box style can does)
Bulging the sheet either direction could really change that internal volume quickly, AND influence how the pulse moves within a can via the shape.
That's why I thought it would be fun to try.. the overhead of thin stock is low.
If one stumbled on one design that just worked really really well, a hardwood press jig could be fashioned and they could be quickly made with a press.
@mattfleming86 I know dang good and well that you're onto something... at least, for certain outlets!! Previous video (stock can) worked well with bark box Vs 3/4" hole Vs Shortest (so far) pipe with a clear winner; the; the next video with reduced volume can on each of the three aforementioned lids showed varied results; some liked it and some didn't like it so much. Dang good ideas that you're offering to all of us; really appreciate the ideas and encouragement and for just joining-in.
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 Good luck bud! Enjoying this series
Awsome dyno video I'm deffinativ try some of the strong mod
@douggranger9954 Thank you! You should try. Will be more and better mod soon as we are searching for the best one. Thanks for being her and joining-in.
Ya word gets out you well get more subscribers dyno show the truth in the mod is your blue saw modded
@douggranger9954 No, blue saw is not modded yet;Stihl 021, MS250, MS270, MS310, and Stihl026 are modded. Stihl 029 to be modded soon, but will not be step-by-step like the 026; plan to show work and performance on dyno and give back to customer/friend. Thanks for the kind words!
Thank you for a very detailed and informative video 👍 What about a 70mm (2&3/4 INCH) pipe straight trough the muffler with 20mm (3/4") on the outside of muffler, at approximately 90° angle?
It would be very interesting to compare that to your goofy long pipe 😂👍
@lundberg223 Thanks!! The 70mm length is about right; the "problem" that I incurred was that the inlet to the pipe (inside the muffler) didn't have a good straight shot for the the majority of the gasses to have a good entrance path to the pipe. I think it can be worked out, but I haven't found the optimum solution yet. I've got some ideas (I hope) for the next attempt. Thanks for watching and ESPECIALLY for joining-in down here.
Hi! Your channel popped up, I like it, I subscribed. Most of the time I’m subscribing to the creator no matter the subject but I’m grateful you’re a great saw guy. Your personality is beautiful.
@saltrock9642 Oh, my goodness! Those are awful kind words! Thank you... stick around or go back, and you will see Calves, Lambs, Sawmilling, pet 'possums... if that sort of thing is also of-interest to you. May not want to go back too far as my video-editing gets worse and worse as you near the beginning; good content, but POOOR editing and vid quality. Thanks so much for joining-in, commenting and being a fine example Glad you found us and chose to become a part!
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 I live in rural Louisiana surrounded by wild things and I live in a log cabin. That should tell ya I’m pretty interested in whatever you have to say. Thanks, buddy.
@saltrock9642 Oh good; maybe you can share some ideas and recipes if/when I show butchering, curing bacons/hams and whatnot!!!
Keep doing what you're doing!
@joecasatelli4825 We'll sure try!! I'm having a blast!! Thanks for being here and being an example/leader and joining-in the banter down here.
I’m liking it so far. May add to my thoughts when I get the time
@jasentonguepowersaws4206 Hope so; always enjoy your input/thoughts.
Very interesting. Some other things to keep in mind, when you change the exhaust, you may need to change carb settings. It would be good to get the cylinder temp as well. I ran r/c cars several years ago and we reffered to the area of the pipe to the air as a stinger. There are different sound waves with longer and shorter pipes. I thought your ideas are pretty good. I hid a pipe in the muffler of one of my saws. It does pretty good. Looks strange in you see inside.
@rcracer641 Very Good info!! I assume you just found this channel; I do tune the saw each time with different pipes and/or different temps for each Dyno or heat pull; I tune it for max pull at 10k (that's the fairest way I know presently... but, I am working on tuning by exhaust temp) .
If you find time to watch the end of the video, you will see a chart of head heat temps for each run Vs HP (pulling at 10k) for each exhaust type tested.
I fully agree with the stinger and expansion chamber and the effects of each. I'm trying to consider that, since the most-effective sound waves are created in the expansion chamber... and a chainsaw doesn't have a large enough, long enough, or shaped properly enough to make the most of sound waves, it may be better to harness the rebound of the actual exhaust column (as it travels differently than the sound actions used to tune a pipe) to maximize performance in a can-style muffler.
We (hopefully) will have added exhaust temp to existing head temp after the next video (takes me a bit to edit and the next one... really neat reduction in volume of the can will be next in line).
Thanks for joining-in and taking part.
230E is named after my favorite log skidder, a 1980 Timberjack 230E. RUclips added the 4 recently so it had enough caracters, I don't really like the 4 on there (maybe youtube shouldn't make decisions by themselves ;) or perhaps I should use a proper name instead of numbers. It would be very interesting to see the effects of shortening the pipe inside the muffler. I typically run about 3/4" inside. I have noticed the exhaust tends to be quieter with more pipe inside, depending on it's orientation to the exhaust port. After trying a bunch of different diameter pipes and doing test cuts I have pretty much settled on 1" pipe, 7/8" I.D. I even experimented with copper pipe of different sizes. It is great to see the tests on your dyno.
@230e4 Ahhh; I reckon the ol Timberjack did have 4 tires, so there's THAT! Bet I can remember now! I've cut some some off from inside the pipe and cut it at a more favorable angle while doing so. I agree that a bigger pipe is in order, but I wanted to try some baby steps; the next video is the reduced-volume can using these same lids (3/4" hole, bark box, and this pipe); I may add the the pipe with the bias-cut to the video (editing it now, but haven't recorded the biased cut or tested it yet). I also have some pipe picked out of the scrap heap that I think is about .8" ID which I want to try (as well as larger hole in the can and larger hole in the bark box. I will let the cat out of the bag; one of the lids really liked the reduced volume can; the pipe did not really like it; I think it's too close in proximity to the reduction baffle to allow proper air flow into the pipe.
I'm starting to compile data on area (sq inches and sq cms) of holes and pipes as well as volume of pipes; I'm compiling the info in the event that a pattern may appear. I will see if there is a way to share it in the video in a easy-to-watch and understandable way... heck, I don't even understand it yet...not enough data points. I'm also aware of many many variables to even hole size and pipe volume; plus, I'm satisfied (guessing with misplaced confidence) that volume needs will change drastically with diameter. ...heck, I'm rambling again. Thanks for your input and being here. How long were/are your 7/8 ID pipes? (with 3/4" inside?)
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 Thanks for the reply. The pipe is 1.5" overall. I put them in the clutch side upper corner like the OE 372xp. I have wanted to test more with no pipe inside verses having pipe inside, but with farming and logging full time it has been hard to make time for it, that is why I am grateful seeing folks like yourself testing modifications and sharing them. I have simply run the dual port Stihl mufflers opened up some on my 066, ms660, 046, ms460, and ms461 saws for years because they were quick to do. Have a great day!
@230e4 I get the busy-life bit; beside the sawmill (as I feel like it), the chainsaws (for fun as I have time), I also farm about 100 acres of hay here (mostly square bales) as well as raise cattle, sheep, and a few hogs... not comparing or crying; just saying I understand!!!! Have a safe one today!!
Very interesting on the length of exhaust. It's nice to know that you don't need that much pipe hanging off your saw.😂 Maybe some day when you get time, you can make a dual exhaust pipe for it. I'll be trying some exhaust pipes soon. Muffler mods anyway. Keep up the good work.
@TheJohnDeereGuy I plan to make a duel piped saw fairly soon; my thinking for order-of-operation is bigger pipes and bigger openings on the various can lids (right after the reduced-volume can; next video; very neat results) then on to dual exhaust and dual holes. Thanks for being here!! Let us all how how your version works.
Do you have a video showing the in and outs or demetion of the bar box??
@dillardwinters4882 I don't have a video recorded specifically for the build of the cover; it was a flat plate with about.4 sq in of area hole cut in the lower left of the muffler chamber; I cut it as close as I could to the lip without having it obstructed by the lip. The outer cover was just a piece of sheet which was bent to accommodate the opening and widened as it went upward and outward toward the bar/chain. It widened to approx 1-1/4" wide and 1/2" of depth. On the 026, .4 square inches of opening worked best with the reduced volume can (in another video ruclips.net/video/--lw9ZkjH4o/видео.html ) Once I went past 0.4 Sq In of opening to 0.58 sq in of opening, I began losing power. 0.4 sq inch was the sweet spot on this particular saw. I didn't lose enough power compel me to remake the bark box lid at this time, but I will at some point and intend to make a change to make it even better. I don't expect it to be a huge change, but I'm searching to all the little things that can stack up to big gains so that we can skip right past the stuff that doesn't work and include the stuff that does work on the next builds. Thanks for being here and especially for joining-in down here in the fun!!
Try up to a 1 inch pipe 🤷 maybe. I usually put 2 .50 pipes in a 40cc... No dyno for numbers, seems to rev up a hair faster... but speed ain't power either. I am enjoying this lil project 👍😎 living in the Show Me state... helps open my mind up 😊
@z1berzerker Get outta my head!!! We'll have dyno results for just such an idea pretty soon. I've also started compiling/documenting area (and volume on pipes) of exhaust; for instance 2x .5" holes is 4/10 sq inch whereas the 1" is 8/10 sq inch. It would take (nearly 4 1/2" pipes to equal a single 1" pipe. ... anyway; You're right there with me in my thoughts; it takes a lot of patience for me not to jump ahead and try stuff "on the way" to where I want to go.
Heck from Show Me? You prolly don't even have to have a translator to listen to me yammer-on. I'm about 90 miles East of St Louis. My sis lived in St Peters or St Charles... right on the border between the two.
Thanks for bein' here, Joe!!
way interesting shared it on the net amazing work
@diggindiggenit6540 Glad you liked it; thanks for helping all us grow, too!
Finding any goodies lately? I'm so far behind on being able to watch your (or anyone's) channel. Thanks for being here; man, this is great!!!
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 echo cs-8000, 090, possible homelite 1050 other than that just collecting a few saw to work on have fun
@diggindiggenit6540 That's good on the saws, but I was actually curious about the metal detecting and scavenging (if I have the right Channel in mind? (you?). I haven't watched your channel (again if I'm thinking right) in a week or two.
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 yeah about 3 years ago and b4 i was really into metal detecting, issue is i have hit about every area with in a 30 min drive that i can think of so just kind of dropped that hobby for a bit and started on new ones like chainsaws but I got to say metal detecting is a blast as well
@diggindiggenit6540 I tried metal detecting here once; when I bought my farm, it had been the site of 2 different residences; one was a house which burned many years ago and the other was a log cabin... the family in the log cabin (about 30x30 or less) had 21 kids... only 17 were with his wife... the others were... um... as we say in the cattle husbandry... LINEBRED (TMI??) Anyway, I tried metal detecting it with no avail... it had a tin roof and all of the tin is still there about 6" deep and disintegrated but enough to give up detecting it. Like you, I think chainsaws are a great hobby. Like so many of my other hobbies; the chainsaw people are some of the best and friendliest people out there.
I agree you need more diameter, but how did you resist cutting more off? I'd have wanted to keep shortening until results showed a loss. I'll bet a larger ID wants a different length. Logic tells me longer, but exhaust flow don't follow what I think.
Also, i think i would have measured the hot spot during a heat run. Seems flow would be drastically different at idle. I'm not really convinced the idea applies on pipes as short as needed on a saw anyway. This ain't no pulling tractor with room to play.
You are doing great work with this whole project. Thanks for taking us along with you! I'll be around for at least another hundred muffler tests. Keep em coming.
@Kevin.L_ Kevin!!! Glad to hear from ya; hope you had a safe day at work and were just busy; you're usually one of the first and I was worried about ya!
I'm not done cutting, but wanted to make a vid on the heat-gun thing... you make two REALLY good points; different diameters will need different length based upon volume (Shhh... I started documenting volume of pipes and sq inches of openings on plain ol holes) that may or may not give way to more understanding for all of us. I also agree that volume of a pipe may be an inverse relationship... meaning bigger pipe needs more volume (more volume achieved by lengthening the pipe... but only for the scavenging and rebound effects. Wide open is hard to compete with if one is only concerned with power and not so much about noise and fuel consumption. I want to have my cake and eat it, too Dadgummit!!!
These muffler tests *ARE* fun a heck, ain't they??!! Thanks for being here and being a fine example!! I mean that!
@Kevin.L_ Oh yeah, I forgot the other point about the RPM thing; it dawned on me after I had done the recordings and cutting; I meant to mention it in the analytics part and forgot there too (I just do it off-the-cuff). I have been trying not to do more than 3 things at a time or the dyno sheet gets awful crowded AND it takes an evening to just put 3 runs-worth of data in the computer (still all manual entry)... the whole time I'm running the dyno, I'm thinking about the dreaded part! 😁
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 Funny story there. I had to drive my son to TN for a root canal today, that's not the funny part obviously. I watched your video and replied while I was in the waiting room. Got home and had notification that someone liked my comment, but no reply. I figured you were just busy. Opened up youtube and realized I had left a comment about your video on someone else's channel. A video about drones, and someone liked my comment about exhaust length and hot spots. Not sure how I managed that one. Hope they got a laugh at my expense.
Anyway, I figure these small exhausts are too small to be tuned like a proper pipe, but if done right could resonate in such a way to help a little, or at least be less of a hinderance. Likely a small exhaust with a fairly large outlet will perform best, but be stupid loud and drink fuel. I think some length of stinger will help with noise and fuel consumption, with minimal impact on performance.
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 You say 3 three things are too many on the graph and I was going to ask about bringing the graph from the bark box clone over for comparison. Since it's a know performer and your current best result it would be good to see how others are doing.
That data entry must be a real fun way to spend your evening. Still no word on that system your friend is working on?
@Kevin.L_ Nicely stated about the attempt to balance fuel use, noise, and power. I'm trying to find a happy little place (think Bob Ross painting) where Noise, Fuel Consumption, and Power all live together in a happy little tree on a happy little mountain. I know I'm probably taking too much time and too small of steps along the way, but I hate to skip a step that may have been a decent gain in power without as much noise or fuel consumption. ...I've probably burned 3 gallons (not tanks) thru this saw since I've began testing it. I'm getting about 3 dyno pulls and 3 heat runs out of one tank... could probably get 4 runs, but don't want to run out of gas before I can idle to cool it off... ABSOLUTELY hate a saw stopping while hot and/or in the cut.
Along with you, I don't think there's room for the sound waves to work in this small of pipe either; I'm trying to consider/prove that, while sound waves have the huge effect (even more than the piston) in moving air through a 2 stroke engine, we can't make use of them in a small can-type exhaust, but ARE able to take advantage of the physical qualities of air movement sans the effects of sound. Might be pie in the sky, but it sure would simplify things in my mind as I can't "measure" sound waves while they're all mixed up and often times moving in opposite direction of the exhaust column... all while having no effect on the actual exhaust column (provided the wave is inverted)... it's too much for me to picture, so I just scribbled it out on my mental-chalkboard.
I really want to see a dyno test on a stock spark plug versus a side gapped spark plug! I guess its an old hot rod trick that gives you a more directed? Spark.
@Magoot2456 Good idea!! I have a few things that I would like to test that are very small and want to compile a vid of "little helpers"; wonder if they make a split_fire for chainsaws...or if I can. Pardon the ignorance, but I assume you mean to twist the ground part off to one side of the electrode? Also wonder how it would work to snip the end back to .030 (or whatever) from ever reaching the electrode; in my quick assessment in my mind, it may be easier to accomplish and same effect? Thoughts? Wonderful comment again!! Thanks for being here, joining-in, and being a fine example/leader.
@HayChaffandSawdust1 so how my brain understood the side gap is by cutting the top section "Ground" portion short enough so you can bend it down till its NEXT to the electrode and .035 gapped away from it. I could be totally wrong :) I'm definitely going to try it cause if I waste a spark plug, thats a pretty cheap part :) it would be really cool to see if it helps on the dyno though! :) I'm sure you have a ton on your plate, so if you get around to it in the future whenever, I'll be here to watch! Thanks again!!!
@Magoot2456 I got ya; that was kinda my second understanding; i first thought of bending the ground electrode sideways and laying it to the side of the regular electrode; may give it a broader area for the spark to travel? You've got my mind grinding... wonder if that would make more/less difference depending upon the angle of attack of the plug (the angle of the plug in relation to the combustion chamber). We used to "clock" our spark plugs with crush washers to orient the gap down and toward the cylinder... don't know if we were doing any good, but we *THOUGHT* we were and weren't getting in trouble elsewhere. Good stuff!!!
You are plenty smart. No simple idiot can do the myriad of things that you’ve shown us and you are just getting started really.
Another fun video here added to the stack. 😉
@FarmlessFarmer-xs1he Farmless!!! Good to hear from you buddy!! Was just thinking of you a few seconds ago and had a simple thought that I hoped all is going well with you... I opened the 'pooter, and there you are!!! Good deal!!!
Ooooh, I know... I'm dang near a rocket surgeon... my neck gets awful tired lugging this ol' heavy brain around 🙄🙄 🤣🤣😂😝😝😝
Alright, now that we're both done laughing at me and rolling our eyes...
Farmless, I appreciate you always commenting, being here since the beginning, and being a fine example of the type of person at whom this channel is aimed and with whom I enjoy interaction!!!
Try just the open exhaust no pipe or muffler it have the most hp i bet .dos that mean we could just have a huge hole😊
@douggranger9954 We will do that at some point; this particular saw will be a firewood saw for my dad and he keeps his saws in the barn with dirt floor open to squirrels, mice, bugs, wasps and other things which would be apt to build a nest in a cylinder in the off-season. It also has to be able to ride around in the back of the SxS in the rain and dust. I think, after we've built this saw into the best work-saw that I can, I will buy a midsized aftermarket kit saw to play with and get really wild or mild with different porting, machining, exhaust, etc... mods. This particular saw has to be a compromise of performance, noise (he will not wear earplugs), durability, and reliability.
Keep the ideas coming, though; if I don't use an idea on this saw, I will eventually, I'm sure! Thanks!!!
Like 👍 the thinkn Sarge 😉 hot 🔥 spot still makes solid sense
@z1berzerker JOE!! good to hear from ya; thanks!! The hot spot works on 4 stoke very well; two strokes... I didn't know as much; had to try!!! Waddaya think? bigger pipe and try same?
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 I like 👍 the bigger pipe idea'r! Don't forget to circumcise your mule 🙂 lol
@z1berzerker I don't have a Jack mule; I just only got an ol' Jenny Mule ... but she's hung like a donut!!
... dadgummya; you're gunna drag out the REAL me and get me in trouble! 🤣😂
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 🤣 🤣
Wouldn't the amount of pipe inside the box also make a difference in temps
@benrodriques I very much think so! and thank you for bringing that up; there's only so much I can jabber-about without making the vid too long or boring... great point though! It seems to be making a hotter cyl temp (over some other types) while I was hoping for the opposite; I've not given up, in that, if the pipe is better (bigger and snip the inside end at a more favorable angle), I hope to have it pull the exhaust out faster and more efficiently thereby drawing heat from the engine. I certainly do not have enough info at this time to make a valid guess (I just added the heat aspect to the dyno and am changing it on-the-go... I'm learning while sharing); I think some upcoming vids will help get us all to a point that we start making hypotheses; they all may be different, but I sure do like the group-think thing!!
Thanks, so much, Sir for taking time to join-in!!
Is the long pipe acting similar to egr?
@bluelightguy1 I *DO* like where you're going with this, but I don't think so...much... but kinda. (For those reading and unaware) EGR is Exhaust Gas Recirculation. The reason I say "not really" is that EGR was designed to replace part of the fuel/air charge with Exhaust gasses back into the cylinder thereby lowering emissions at the cost of less performance. We *ARE* trying to redirect the Exhaust Gas column back toward the cylinder (understanding that there is *some* fuel/air mix at the cyl-side of the exhaust column; we want to make the exhaust act as though it's going back into the cylinder; but, at the last moment, close the window of the port as the last of the exhaust-side intake charge is pushed back into the cylinder, but before exhaust gasses make it back in; in a perfect scenario, the piston would "slice" the exhaust column exactly at the fuel/air portion and keep it in the cylinder while leaving all of the exhaust outside of the cylinder.
On another note... which you bring a huge consideration to the table, could the rise in heat between different cylinders be attributable to too much exhaust gasses getting back into the cylinder? ...right back to the baffled muffler... it ran cooler... did it limit recirculated exhaust gasses?
DadGummit!!! I like your thinkin and relating it to something with which a good many people are familiar. Don't miss a video/comment... we need you here!!!
The egr comment was only due to the temp. This is a great series @@HayChaffandSawdust1
@bluelightguy1 (Not being patronizing) and it was a great comment/assessment! I agree that one may be be able to read only temp and find the highest HP in that the lowest Temp may equal the highest hp due to being most efficient and using EGR, but stopping it at the perfect time? I love the thought and a different perspective/way of understanding.
be careful i hope you don't get carbon monoxide poisoning in that shed 😀
@Gurris133 I was wondering why I always slept so good after a good day in the saw shed!! Actually, I built the shed and am not much of a carpenter... you can throw a fair-sized tom cat through the cracks. 😂🤣 Seriously though, thanks for your concern and I have considered health implications as well; I have a fan now to attempt to keep a cleaner atmosphere around the dyno... I just need to get it plugged in!!
Thanks for being here and joining-in!!!
Don't waste time translating to metric. The metric crowd never translates values to standard so don't waste time showing respect to foreigners who don't respect us.
@ryelor123 Normally I would agree; there's one single difference here and that is, an amazing amount of people are watching from their homes while they ARE home in Japan, Australia, Canada, the UK, etc...
It's sort of like me deciding to watch Tinman, Donny, Buckin' or whoever; I'm the foreigner to them, but sure wouldn't mind if Tinman were to use (F) as well as metric... he don't much and that's his choice. I mean the above with the most respect to your comment; I'm just aware that my videos are viewed all over the world (about 10-15%) are outside the US. Thanks for joining-in an commenting. Welcome!!