See how I replaced the inner gaskets here: www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-s6-c6-platform-discussion-58/fixing-oil-spark-plug-other-engine-oil-leaks-3-2-a-2987300/page7/#post25425213
Great video! I have a 2007 A4 that is leaking oil from the part but the difference between my car is that the vacuum pump/brake pump is placed towards the back of the engine and not in the front. Thanks for the upload and will be definitely referencing it in the coming days when i fix it.
I was finishing up the job of replacing my timing chain tensioner‘s, spark plug gaskets under the cam girdle and aerobic sealant around the cam girdle, valve cover gaskets and vacuum pump gasket/pump rebuild. I was putting the last item back on which was the vacuum pump and the pump did not go into the hole very easily. It was a little crooked. So I was turning each bolt trying to use the leverage from the bolts to make the pump go into the hole. Well, that didn’t go well. I snapped the part on the pump that one of the screws goes into because it was too much pressure. It’s hard to explain how I did it but I have to now buy a new one. On the new one I think I will put a little bit of oil inside of the vacuum pump housing hole and a little bit onto the perimeter of the pump itself to make it go inside the hole easier this time. I hope to have it by tomorrow because I’m having it shipped overnight. That is a $167 mistake. My question to you is should I install a brand new one and start the car with no oil or anything inside of the pump at all? I know when you rebuild yours that you took it all apart and cleaned all of the oil out of it. So I’m thinking that you did not have any oil inside of yours either. I’m just wondering if that pump should be spinning when the car starts up with no oil inside of it. I took mine apart and cleaned most of the inside as well but there were still some oil inside because I did not take those center pieces all the way out. But the new one will be totally dry. What are your thoughts? Thanks.
You are not supposed to open the new vacuum pump before installing it so if it comes dry, I guess you have to install it as is. I thoroughly cleaned mine and installed it dry. I just don't get the part where you broke it. Did you properly line up the pump nose with the camshaft in the cylinder head? Don't lubricate the bolts. They are supposed to be installed dry. The 9 Nm torque will not be accurate if you put oil in there. I suggest you clean the threads with some WD-40 degreaser then blow some air in there to blow out potential debris before installing the new one.
Ok. I won’t open the new one. No, it was not lined up with the head correctly. I kept trying to get it to go in but it was a little crooked. So, I was trying to tighten the bolts to have them push the pump into position in the cylinder head. Since it was crooked when I was turning the bolt on one side it put force in the opposite direction on the other side and snapped a little piece off of the pump that the bolt goes through. I was not talking about lubricating the bolts. I was talking about lubricating the inside of the cylinder head so that I could push the working part of the pump into the cylinder head better. With both parts dry, it was giving me a really hard time to get in there. I was being impatient. It was almost 10pm and I had been working on the car for 5 hours already that day. And I should I have known that I was putting way too much pressure on the one bolt. I remember us talking about putting a little bit of grease down into the cam journals so that they are not dry. I also went a step further and poured a little bit of oil along each camshaft to lubricate them better before I put the valve cover back on.
I feel your pain, man! I did the exact same thing with my pump and still tying to figure out why it would not go in straight. Perhaps the flange on the pump was not lined up with the slots in the camshaft, but it's tricky to preset it in the right position. I got one for a good price on Amazon, but I'm bummed because I had just replaced all the gaskets on the old one. I think I'll cut a flat stick that I can use as a guide to preset the position of the flange. Hopefully that will make the new one will engage smoothly.
@@poorgermanboy That’s exactly what it ended up being. I did not line up the flange properly. I just stuck it on there thinking it would go into position. You need to line up the thing on the back properly that spins.
Thank you for the video , it's very helpfull. Could you please tell me what is the torque on the five plate bolts in case to replace the interior gasket?
Very nice work and youtube channel! I have the same problem on my a4 3.2 v6 quattro sline 2006… where you or can I find all gaskets you look on the video and on your post audiworld forum? Now I find your channel I follow and check all your Audi diy work!!! Thanks a lot so much much ;p
I appreciate your message. Here is where you can buy the internal gaskets: www.ebay.com/itm/332094953549 Here is the part number of the external gasket: 06E 145 215 A Here is the part number of the bolts: N 101 243 06
Thank you. I put a link in the description that leads to a forum thread were I showed how to replace the inner gaskets. There are two gaskets inside. Make sure you replace the two. Follow my guide 😉
@@Kokouvia It's 3.2fsi. I haven't took mine off yet, but it looks like o ring, and catalogue gave me this part number 06D 145 117. Here is picture: i.imgur.com/IvtJ7Gz.jpg
@@Kokouvia I tried that and has to use a hammer and 3/8" extension to move it just a few degrees. It then jammed after I got is out a few mm so I used a large screwdriver to lever the pump at the three ears until I was able to pull it out. Just be sure it stays parallel to the mounting flange by keeping the gap at the three ears as equal as possible. It should come out easily once the o-ring is visible.
See how I replaced the inner gaskets here: www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-s6-c6-platform-discussion-58/fixing-oil-spark-plug-other-engine-oil-leaks-3-2-a-2987300/page7/#post25425213
Bless you! You’re far better than any Audi “tech” I’ve ever encountered. Skills!!
I appreciate the positive feedback! :)
Great video! I have a 2007 A4 that is leaking oil from the part but the difference between my car is that the vacuum pump/brake pump is placed towards the back of the engine and not in the front. Thanks for the upload and will be definitely referencing it in the coming days when i fix it.
I was finishing up the job of replacing my timing chain tensioner‘s, spark plug gaskets under the cam girdle and aerobic sealant around the cam girdle, valve cover gaskets and vacuum pump gasket/pump rebuild. I was putting the last item back on which was the vacuum pump and the pump did not go into the hole very easily. It was a little crooked. So I was turning each bolt trying to use the leverage from the bolts to make the pump go into the hole. Well, that didn’t go well. I snapped the part on the pump that one of the screws goes into because it was too much pressure. It’s hard to explain how I did it but I have to now buy a new one. On the new one I think I will put a little bit of oil inside of the vacuum pump housing hole and a little bit onto the perimeter of the pump itself to make it go inside the hole easier this time. I hope to have it by tomorrow because I’m having it shipped overnight. That is a $167 mistake. My question to you is should I install a brand new one and start the car with no oil or anything inside of the pump at all? I know when you rebuild yours that you took it all apart and cleaned all of the oil out of it. So I’m thinking that you did not have any oil inside of yours either. I’m just wondering if that pump should be spinning when the car starts up with no oil inside of it. I took mine apart and cleaned most of the inside as well but there were still some oil inside because I did not take those center pieces all the way out. But the new one will be totally dry. What are your thoughts? Thanks.
You are not supposed to open the new vacuum pump before installing it so if it comes dry, I guess you have to install it as is. I thoroughly cleaned mine and installed it dry.
I just don't get the part where you broke it. Did you properly line up the pump nose with the camshaft in the cylinder head? Don't lubricate the bolts. They are supposed to be installed dry. The 9 Nm torque will not be accurate if you put oil in there. I suggest you clean the threads with some WD-40 degreaser then blow some air in there to blow out potential debris before installing the new one.
Ok. I won’t open the new one. No, it was not lined up with the head correctly. I kept trying to get it to go in but it was a little crooked. So, I was trying to tighten the bolts to have them push the pump into position in the cylinder head. Since it was crooked when I was turning the bolt on one side it put force in the opposite direction on the other side and snapped a little piece off of the pump that the bolt goes through. I was not talking about lubricating the bolts. I was talking about lubricating the inside of the cylinder head so that I could push the working part of the pump into the cylinder head better. With both parts dry, it was giving me a really hard time to get in there. I was being impatient. It was almost 10pm and I had been working on the car for 5 hours already that day. And I should I have known that I was putting way too much pressure on the one bolt.
I remember us talking about putting a little bit of grease down into the cam journals so that they are not dry. I also went a step further and poured a little bit of oil along each camshaft to lubricate them better before I put the valve cover back on.
@@jasonpatterson7266 Okay makes sense now! 👍🏽
I feel your pain, man! I did the exact same thing with my pump and still tying to figure out why it would not go in straight. Perhaps the flange on the pump was not lined up with the slots in the camshaft, but it's tricky to preset it in the right position. I got one for a good price on Amazon, but I'm bummed because I had just replaced all the gaskets on the old one. I think I'll cut a flat stick that I can use as a guide to preset the position of the flange. Hopefully that will make the new one will engage smoothly.
@@poorgermanboy That’s exactly what it ended up being. I did not line up the flange properly. I just stuck it on there thinking it would go into position. You need to line up the thing on the back properly that spins.
Thank you very much for your videos. You're a life saver. I have this leaking problem coming the vacuum pump and I was thinking of fixing it myself.
Good job man! Love watching your videos keep up the good work! :D
Amazing Mechanic! Thank you for making this Video.
You bet!
Thank you for the video , it's very helpfull. Could you please tell me what is the torque on the five plate bolts in case to replace the interior gasket?
I do not know that unfortunately.
9-10 nm
Excellent DIY, thanks for makin this vid man
Very nice work and youtube channel! I have the same problem on my a4 3.2 v6 quattro sline 2006… where you or can I find all gaskets you look on the video and on your post audiworld forum?
Now I find your channel I follow and check all your Audi diy work!!!
Thanks a lot so much much ;p
I appreciate your message.
Here is where you can buy the internal gaskets: www.ebay.com/itm/332094953549
Here is the part number of the external gasket: 06E 145 215 A
Here is the part number of the bolts: N 101 243 06
@ThatAfricanGuy I agree. These parts are higher quality than OEM and should last longer.
Is that full of oil I have a 2006 3.2fsi and mine is covered in oil?
you are the best
Appreciated.
Great video bro
Thanks! 👍🏾
Thanks for sharing, much appreciated
My pleasure!
Nice job bro👍🏻
Thank you bro!
PERFECT MOVIE!!! THX
Excellent 👌
Nice vid. Just what I was looking for, coz I also got oil leak from vacuum pump. Except I plan also replace the seal ring, audi code 06D 145 117 .
Thank you. I put a link in the description that leads to a forum thread were I showed how to replace the inner gaskets. There are two gaskets inside. Make sure you replace the two. Follow my guide 😉
@@Kokouvia That code is for Vacuum pump to cylinder head rubber o ring seal, not gasket. Didn't see that o ring in audiworld post?
@@xlvxjang What car is it? In my case, the gasket that seals the vacuum pump to the cylinder head is metallic and the part number is 06E 145 215 A.
@@Kokouvia It's 3.2fsi. I haven't took mine off yet, but it looks like o ring, and catalogue gave me this part number 06D 145 117. Here is picture:
i.imgur.com/IvtJ7Gz.jpg
@@xlvxjang You could be right. I haven't replaced that o-ring though but leaks have stopped. Please share your findings when you do this. Thank you.
How did yourz just pop back on 😑 mine won't budge even when covered it in oil
You have to twist it left and right while pulling towards you.
@@Kokouvia I tried that and has to use a hammer and 3/8" extension to move it just a few degrees. It then jammed after I got is out a few mm so I used a large screwdriver to lever the pump at the three ears until I was able to pull it out. Just be sure it stays parallel to the mounting flange by keeping the gap at the three ears as equal as possible. It should come out easily once the o-ring is visible.
I have noise like servo pump at high rpm 🤔
I had that too and I think it was a bad intake manifold.
@@Kokouvia can I repair intake?
@@Kokouvia maybe solenoids is bad?
@@autodjelovi2092 I am talking about the upper intake. I don't think you can repair it. I replaced mine.
@@Kokouvia my sound comes from under the hood for the engine chains - buzzing
Did that vacuum pump leak cause a stalling issue?
No it did not. How is your car stalling?
I'm try to replace my old one myself now with a new one. Do I need to reset any codes after the job?
No, you don't need to unless there were codes already stored previously.
@@Kokouvia I appreciate it brother I'm in Florida.
@@dewaynejay1032 My pleasure. News from Florida are not good. Stay safe brother.
@@Kokouvia I'm trying doing the best I can do 🙏
my hose on the pump has work 1mm up and down - is it normal?
No it should be tight.
@@Kokouvia 👌🙋♂️💝