You don't have to drain the oil. Simply loosen the filter cap, reducing pressure and let gravity pull that oil back into the pan. Remove the belt so you don't get the minimal amount of oil on it. Also; pinch the coolant lines, so you don't have to replace coolant. Both tactics will save you $150 at home (OEM oil & coolant) or $300 at the shop.
Don’t be cheap kill 3/4 birds aT 1 time. New oil , new coolant , fixed leak new serp belt.. might as well Esp if you haven’t done it yet or know if it has been done previously !!
I just recently purchased a 2010 128i which had a similar issue and was intimidated to take this repair on myself, but after watching this video a couple times, i was able to get it all done on a Friday morning. That 1/4" swivel bit makes a humongous difference in being able to access that top bolt. Thanks so much for such a thorough and well explained video. Im new to the BMW world and you made it easy for me to dive right in. Cant thank you enough, and Ill keep going to your site for all my BMW part needs.
This issue was in the dealer's pre-purchase inspection report for my 328i E90 2009 with 123,000 miles. Additionally, oil from the OFHG leak had migrated straight down to the serpentine belt and tensioner, so they needed replacement along with the OHFG. The repair was mandatory because the belt was nearly off its rollers. The total cost was around $350.00 from a local independent BMW tech. Repairing a leaking OFHG is essential, but the repair is routine and is no reason, by itself, to stop someone from buying this kind of car.
Did this work On my X3 8 months ago now. motor runs smooth and no leaks at all, all sensors and gaskets fit perfect and OEM. 160k and this is the only issue so far, beside a small vaccum leak fixed for $13. THanks for the perfect instructions and priceless experience with quality parts in you kit. I will order again for sure, hard to find trustworthy parts houses these days.
Great video, and thanks for posting. I just did the task and siphoned the coolant out of the expansion tank with a pump rather than take the plastic pan off to get to the radiator drain. Saved a bucket of time. Of course if you want to flush the radiator might as well. Again, thanks for the video.
This resource really helped with the job! I used some paper towels to get most all the residual oil out of the OFH assembly. Also when removing, make a skirt of paper towels around the OFH to prevent it from dripping down. I also do above the serpentine belt to prevent oil from dripping down while performing an oil change.
For everyone about to do this job, make sure you don't get oil in the openings for the coolant. I did that. That was a nightmare to recover from. I strongly recommend draining both the oil and coolant from personal experience. Especially the coolant.
Thanks for these videos, they are super informative. I just did this job and skipped removing the oil, coolant, and the flange. Took about 30 minutes from start to finish, the bulk of that time was spent cleaning off old oil from the area. The kit from FCP Euro was perfect. Thanks again.
Thanks Gareth great video as usual. The car is an 2011 e90 with the N51 ozone factory engine LOL. The E10 1/4" drive swivel is a time saver. I ordered one (I thought). When it finally arrived it was a 10mm not E10. However I decided to try an 8mm 1/4" swivel. Scary but it worked. When it broke loose I thought the flex had broken. Considering going back with a 6mm hex head bolt instead of the E10.
Thank you for a good video. Clamping the 2 coolant hoses will limit the fluid loss to less than a cup or two and avoid draining the radiator. Cutting the upper hose metal ring clamp with a rotary cutter without damaging the hose is very difficult and risky. Cutting the plastic flange and removing it from the inside is a better option.
Or it simply can/will snap off - be sure to get the flange completely seated or it will leak - it will take some work but be sure the flange is COMPLETLY flush - walk the bolts in during tightening
Fantastic video. Doing all this now on my E89. Y’all, replace your cooling flange “Mickey Mouse” fitting with FCPEuro aluminum flange. Trust me, you’ll be glad you did. Otherwise you might have catastrophic cooling failure.
Thank you for a great video and I will have to double check my oil filter housing to see if I need to change the gasket and if so I can reference this video and I feel confident that I can change mine instead of BMW charging me and arm and a leg to change it.
One thing to note... If u have a lift or if u can ask a friend to use their lift... Use it cuz it's just awkward without it. It's not impossible but trust me u can do this in... 30 or 40 mins with a lift no problem
6mm allen on the drain plug. And then a 16mm Socket for the fill. Remove your damned undercover/skid shield (plastic one after metal one). Drop the drain plug, let it drain. Then put it back in (buy a new drain plug!!!! Fill plug too but fill plug isn't as important if ur cheap. You'll thank me later lol). Pull off the fill plug and siphon/pump new DEXRON VI (6) until it starts to spew out of that fill plug. Then quickly install fill plug, go in and starter' up and go thru all the gears and even manual ones SLOWLY AND THREE TO FOUR TIMES. Turn her off after that and drop the fill plug again after the car is up to temp in that gearbox (bmw says it gotta be 110 deg. F) Then pump more fluid in until it overflows again and then plug it with that fill plug. Go through the gears and gearsets once more, and reset the adaptations by holding gas pedal while car is one stagedly on (not running but electronics work) and then drive it very very lightly for about the first week due to that fluid needing almost a breakin period to soak into the valve body of the tranny. The GM box is great, and you have to have to have to change the fluid on it to avoid it skippin gears amd soft/clunk shifting on down/up shifts. Best of luck, I hope this is useful to you even after three months. Pelican parts has a gpod walkthru step by step with pics too! Don't trust forum dudes, they're on there for a reason😂
Good time to change the coolant if you have not done so for a while. If you plan to drain the coolant through the spigot on the bottom of the radiator, buy a new O-ring for it as well. Mine is original , now 15 years old and is seeping slightly after refilling.
thank you for the video! I did it to my X3 2003 last year. man, yesterday, I found out there is small oil leak at the same place. I need to do it again... I drove only 6000 miles since I have replaced these gaskets. this time, I will do it right, though. thank you.
@@bowenhuang4835 Oh my god, that is pretty tragic there. it is good to know. Man, I wish it will last more, though. Thank you so much for your comment and shared experience : )
I always use these videos and your kits. Would be nice to have the link to the o rings and even the hoses themselves. If we are there, makes sense to change them. All these cars are more than 10 years.
Great video, thank you for your good explanation. I recently purchased a 2009 e93 328i, N52 engine, and I have a terrible smell from the engine bay and when I turn on AC, it comes to the interior through air vents. Actually, it is like a burning smell and very bad. The seller told me that the valve cover gasket was replaced. So, I checked VCG and it seems no oil around the edges. I am not sure if the Oil Filter Housing Gasket may lead to this kind of burning oilish smell. According to your experience, is that possible? (PS: there is no trace of oil leaking from the front side but not sure underneath the intake manifold.)
Great Video!!! What is the root cause of the OFHG leak poor design, lack of maintenance / oil changes, faulty mickey mouse coolant gasket or all of the above? Was there any special priming needed to be done before installing the new oil filter? Would it be a good time to replace the coolant expansion tank since there also known to fail?
You probably already did the job but I didn’t, I just added some oil to the housing, I did have a fair amount of lifter tick on the first startup after, but I also did my vc gasket
If a magnet sticks to the bolt, you can reuse it. If not, dont. Some audi bolts can be used 2x...and they want you to mark them with a chisel after the first reuse. Dont mess with aluminum/magnesium bolts, just replace them.
@@kingofbrutaltheocracy9201 agreed.. after much research and many many jobs later on the n52 I’ve learned that now . Lol appreciate the advice and facts .
Just wondering: why drain the oil and coolant? I had oil leaks and my mechanic didn't mention it to me but he inspected the car and changed fluids; his shop is for european cars, too. How did he miss this?
I understand that you don't lose torque with the extension, but wouldn't you lose torque with the E10 swivel socket? (since it swivels / connects to the bolt at an angle). Should we adjust for this in any way by setting the torque wrench a little bit higher?
Wondering if anyone knows the part number for the filter cage that resides within the oil filter itself and attaches to the underside of the cap.. can easily find replacement caps but no insert. It's for a 2006 330i. Excellent video, very informative and well done. Made this repair easy. Thank you
So many incorrect information about the bolts being used on the oil filter housing. For the N52 engine, the oil filter housing bolts are steel. Not aluminum. Take a magnet to the bolts to see for yourself. Also, the torque setting for these bolts are 15-16lb-ft, well below the max ratings for these bolts. These steel bolts are rated at 35lb-ft, but can handle even more. Of course, it never hurts to use brand new oil filter housing bolts. But it adds no benefits either.
@@hammertimee777 I have an e82 with the N51 motor. Just replaced my OFHG and just by feeling the weight of the bolts I can also agree they’re steel. Maybe not all the motors or just older models have aluminum.
@@ryanholt1214 I agree. I think as these gaskets become a common failure item, BMW has started using steel bolts for the oil filter housing to avoid additional and inconvenience. The updated new replacement bolts from dealers are indeed steel. No need to replace them if existing ones are steel
@@hammertimee777 2006 E90 330i: bolts were magnetic but not sure if already replaced. the new ones in gasket kit from FCP Euro were also steel (magnetic)
Hi you doing. you guys but by accident I change my oil filter gasket and I didn’t tight enough and somehow oil gets into water line and know I have oil in radiator. I did a flush already but still oil. I don’t think is a blow head gasket since my car never overheating before and car is not running hot. What could be the problem so I can fix my car before get bad. Thank you.
just changed my ofhg and plugged all the sensors back and put back intake put in new coolant and oil… checked to see if it leaks or has weird noises didnt sound weird at all drove it for 4 miles and the car stopped working and didnt want to start🥹 wjat could be the issue it cranks but not starting up
Anyone have the oil and coolant mixing at the filter housing and mimicking a blown head gasket? I'm hoping that's my problem, as there's oil all over by the filter housing, and when I take the cap off, the oil is foamy.
Great video as always guys, just one question, what are the most common size etorx sockets for diy on bmws? An etorx set is kind of expensive here in my country, I rather buy 'em individually, thanks in advance
I got the kit recently and then realized it didn't include the cooler seal and it wasn't showing up as a part option when i searched my car on the site. I assume it isn't a common issue that should be replaced but the website seems to think it isnt a part for my car. BMW E90 N52 330i 2006
I heard even with the swivel socket, I can’t remove the bolt that is underneath intake because it is long and will be blocked by intake. Not sure who is right.
Hi, Many thanks for the very useful video. I have couple of questions please: I just noticed that the radiator reservoir in my BMW e92 has oil inside (not sure how oil ended up mixing with the water there): (1) how serious is this, I mean can I still drive the car or this is an emergency repair? (2) Does the same job in the video fix the issue? Thanks
If you have oil in your coolant, or coolant in your oil, there is definitely a problem. Yes, it could be from this housing, but could be a head gasket leak. That would be particularly bad, but unlikely unless you've overheated (is your water pump working?).
Ok question is can the oil leaking for the ofh mess up crankshaft sensors and wires ? Just last week a had to change the Mickey Mouse part since it literally shredded pretty sure due to the leaking. Like you said plastic heat & oil don’t mix well . Should’ve replaced the ofhg at the same time from what I’m seeing but again wasn’t thinking about it too much on the spot
Over a long period of time it may degrade the exterior of them or oil may work its way into the connector. Best bet is to clean it all up well post OFHG replacement.
What was the mileage on this N52? BTW....these are awesome videos...I am almost ready to buy one of these N52's. This looks easy. Now...if it wasn't for that VANOS!
i bought a 328xi with 140km on it...i think thats like 100k miles? anyways i didnt need to do anything to it till now... my cars reaching 200kms and so far ive all 6 coils and spark plugs Changed valve cover Changed eccentric shaft gasket Changed valve cover gasket Changed valvetronic motor gasket Changed oil filter housing gasket all at once...when youre there and everything is open its better to do it then. my car came with a valve cover leak and a miss fire since i bought it plus..the engine light was on loool. i was 22 when i got the car with my pops and eevryone was looking at me like im an idiot (theyre probably right). and ways you'll love the car because it handles like nothing youve ever driven. also...suspension...im doing all the arms and everything now. plus... Transmission Oil change + filter + Gasket + screws im 25....if i can do it with basic hand tools anyone can. im not a pro or anything...just crazy enough to work on a bmw in my dads garage lool
Excellentttt Video Sir, Great Detail. Question @16:38 you mentioned head bolt snaps off. I have a 2013 x5 35i 3.o litre turbo. is this problem with the 2013 also? ty
That's a completely different engine. 2013 is the crossover between generations so I don't know what engine you have. If it has aluminium parts it may be a problem
Hi Rafael, the best thing to do is to perform a vacuum leak test/smoke test and see where the issue is. From there, you can see if it needs a new valve cover or a gasket wash pinched/didn't seal properly.
If you drain out the bottom of the radiator only (no lower hoses removed from the water pump), you will need 1.5 gallons. Get a new O-ring for the radiator drain too.
@Chris Rich:. YES! New bolts are required. See at 21:55 all bolts used are new. General rule, if the bolts are aluminium -> New Bolts. If the bolts go in to the engine head, or other aluminium parts -> New Bolts.
Is it possible to have coolant mix with your oil through the oil housing gasket failing? I noticed the leak and opened my oil cap and could see the death milk on the cap. got a long weekend ahead next weekend.
I was unable to remove the bottom bolt using a 8mm wrench and my swivel torx and extension couldn’t sit on the bolt at the back. I am not planning to remove the Mickey Mouse. Any suggestions on what tools to use would be really helpful.
Best idea is to remove the Mickey Mouse flange and replace it with an aluminum version - as you have seen, they rot and WHEN it cracks and lets go, you will be out at night far from home in the rain. Since there is no temperature gauge on these cars, you won't know until the engine overheats and steam starts pouring out from the hood. Just do it.
Yes, you have to remove the old clamp and replace it with one that can be tightened externally, i.e. a plain old radiator hose clamp. Best idea is to use a big channel lock pliers and smash the old plastic flange (once removed from the engine) which will be brittle and fish out ALL of the pieces - clamp may be able to slide off then.
fyi: a 3/8" universal joint with 3/8 E10 doesn't fit. there's very little clearance as bolt angles 45-degrees up. a 1/4" universal joint with a 1/4 E10 (I had to use a 1/4" 8mm) does fit to crack the bolt and mostly unloosen, the last part you have to do by hand as the medium length bolt leaves no room. Make sure you have some way to seat a socket on this bolt BEFORE you bother to drain oil and coolant; otherwise you'll have to rig something like I did to finish. in short: 1/4" E10 with integrated swivel would be best but 1/4" universal joint will work.
You don't have to drain the oil. Simply loosen the filter cap, reducing pressure and let gravity pull that oil back into the pan. Remove the belt so you don't get the minimal amount of oil on it. Also; pinch the coolant lines, so you don't have to replace coolant. Both tactics will save you $150 at home (OEM oil & coolant) or $300 at the shop.
You do for the oil
When the fuck is oil and coolant 150$ lol
@@shelbyprice7790plus you just do the job when you need to change the oil. Dont change the oil than 1 week later do the gasket. Time it right.
@@shelbyprice7790bro where I live 140$ just for a lil change I said fuck that took my dads Chevy back home did it my self
Don’t be cheap kill 3/4 birds aT 1 time. New oil , new coolant , fixed leak new serp belt.. might as well Esp if you haven’t done it yet or know if it has been done previously !!
I just recently purchased a 2010 128i which had a similar issue and was intimidated to take this repair on myself, but after watching this video a couple times, i was able to get it all done on a Friday morning. That 1/4" swivel bit makes a humongous difference in being able to access that top bolt. Thanks so much for such a thorough and well explained video. Im new to the BMW world and you made it easy for me to dive right in. Cant thank you enough, and Ill keep going to your site for all my BMW part needs.
Welcome to the club, Sal! Happy to make your DIY experience a bit easier!
Trust me, you come to hate working on BMWs.
This issue was in the dealer's pre-purchase inspection report for my 328i E90 2009 with 123,000 miles. Additionally, oil from the OFHG leak had migrated straight down to the serpentine belt and tensioner, so they needed replacement along with the OHFG. The repair was mandatory because the belt was nearly off its rollers. The total cost was around $350.00 from a local independent BMW tech. Repairing a leaking OFHG is essential, but the repair is routine and is no reason, by itself, to stop someone from buying this kind of car.
Man, I almost spilled my coffee when I saw how you poured the oil ;-). Nice video. Many thanks.
Did this work On my X3 8 months ago now. motor runs smooth and no leaks at all, all sensors and gaskets fit perfect and OEM. 160k and this is the only issue so far, beside a small vaccum leak fixed for $13. THanks for the perfect instructions and priceless experience with quality parts in you kit. I will order again for sure, hard to find trustworthy parts houses these days.
I currently have vacuum leak codes. Where was your leak?
Excellent, detailed job walking us through this procedure. I have the exact job to do on my car. Thanks much!
Thanks for watching!
Great video, and thanks for posting. I just did the task and siphoned the coolant out of the expansion tank with a pump rather than take the plastic pan off to get to the radiator drain. Saved a bucket of time. Of course if you want to flush the radiator might as well. Again, thanks for the video.
This resource really helped with the job! I used some paper towels to get most all the residual oil out of the OFH assembly. Also when removing, make a skirt of paper towels around the OFH to prevent it from dripping down. I also do above the serpentine belt to prevent oil from dripping down while performing an oil change.
Great note, Steven!
For everyone about to do this job, make sure you don't get oil in the openings for the coolant. I did that. That was a nightmare to recover from. I strongly recommend draining both the oil and coolant from personal experience. Especially the coolant.
Video show Exactly what I needed to know doing my oil filter gasket this weekend. I will pressure was the engine bay before doing the job.
Thanks for these videos, they are super informative. I just did this job and skipped removing the oil, coolant, and the flange. Took about 30 minutes from start to finish, the bulk of that time was spent cleaning off old oil from the area. The kit from FCP Euro was perfect. Thanks again.
Great job!
Love your videos - they help me do this job without making any mistakes!
Gareth's videos are the best
Did this on my 325xi. Everything was covered in a THICK layer of oil and gunk. Couldn't even see inside the alternator it was so badly covered.
Thanks Gareth great video as usual. The car is an 2011 e90 with the N51 ozone factory engine LOL. The E10 1/4" drive swivel is a time saver. I ordered one (I thought). When it finally arrived it was a 10mm not E10. However I decided to try an 8mm 1/4" swivel. Scary but it worked. When it broke loose I thought the flex had broken. Considering going back with a 6mm hex head bolt instead of the E10.
Thanks ! I bought one and this is the first thing i need to do . Good luck to me
Thanks for this, and all your videos!
Did this job on my 328i with 72,000 miles... easy...lol.
Fyi, 5/16 " ratcheting box wrench works great...
Thank you for a good video. Clamping the 2 coolant hoses will limit the fluid loss to less than a cup or two and avoid draining the radiator.
Cutting the upper hose metal ring clamp with a rotary cutter without damaging the hose is very difficult and risky. Cutting the plastic flange and removing it from the inside is a better option.
What’s the part number on the plastic flange? Dealer sell just the flange?
@@DebtFreeCars You can't get the plastic flange by itself. It is part of the hose assembly sold as one part.
@@DebtFreeCars just buy the metal flange and you won’t have to worry about it
@@rampant5139 where can i find it? Also I stripped the torx bolt for the oil filter housing…. Err. How do I remove an aluminum bolt?
Or it simply can/will snap off - be sure to get the flange completely seated or it will leak - it will take some work but be sure the flange is COMPLETLY flush - walk the bolts in during tightening
Fantastic video. Doing all this now on my E89. Y’all, replace your cooling flange “Mickey Mouse” fitting with FCPEuro aluminum flange. Trust me, you’ll be glad you did. Otherwise you might have catastrophic cooling failure.
Yo do you know exactly what hoes connects to the Mickey Mouse flange you should add a link bro
Bingo - this is a must as the plastic flange can fail and then your SOL
Thank you for a great video and I will have to double check my oil filter housing to see if I need to change the gasket and if so I can reference this video and I feel confident that I can change mine instead of BMW charging me and arm and a leg to change it.
Glad it helped, happy wrenching!
keep the e90/n52 content coming! do you guys have a video on the GA6L45R transmission fluid change?
Jus did mine... It's so easy
One thing to note... If u have a lift or if u can ask a friend to use their lift... Use it cuz it's just awkward without it. It's not impossible but trust me u can do this in... 30 or 40 mins with a lift no problem
6mm allen on the drain plug. And then a 16mm Socket for the fill. Remove your damned undercover/skid shield (plastic one after metal one). Drop the drain plug, let it drain. Then put it back in (buy a new drain plug!!!! Fill plug too but fill plug isn't as important if ur cheap. You'll thank me later lol). Pull off the fill plug and siphon/pump new DEXRON VI (6) until it starts to spew out of that fill plug. Then quickly install fill plug, go in and starter' up and go thru all the gears and even manual ones SLOWLY AND THREE TO FOUR TIMES. Turn her off after that and drop the fill plug again after the car is up to temp in that gearbox (bmw says it gotta be 110 deg. F) Then pump more fluid in until it overflows again and then plug it with that fill plug. Go through the gears and gearsets once more, and reset the adaptations by holding gas pedal while car is one stagedly on (not running but electronics work) and then drive it very very lightly for about the first week due to that fluid needing almost a breakin period to soak into the valve body of the tranny. The GM box is great, and you have to have to have to change the fluid on it to avoid it skippin gears amd soft/clunk shifting on down/up shifts. Best of luck, I hope this is useful to you even after three months. Pelican parts has a gpod walkthru step by step with pics too! Don't trust forum dudes, they're on there for a reason😂
great video, thank you. Watching these videos reminds me of why I will NEVER buy another bmw again. The epitome of poor design.
Good time to change the coolant if you have not done so for a while.
If you plan to drain the coolant through the spigot on the bottom of the radiator, buy a new O-ring for it as well. Mine is original , now 15 years old and is seeping slightly after refilling.
Bumping thanks
thank you for the video! I did it to my X3 2003 last year. man, yesterday, I found out there is small oil leak at the same place. I need to do it again... I drove only 6000 miles since I have replaced these gaskets. this time, I will do it right, though. thank you.
Mine only lasted 3000 miles... I bought the gasket cheap from Amazon though😂😂
@@bowenhuang4835 Oh my god, that is pretty tragic there. it is good to know. Man, I wish it will last more, though. Thank you so much for your comment and shared experience : )
I always use these videos and your kits. Would be nice to have the link to the o rings and even the hoses themselves. If we are there, makes sense to change them. All these cars are more than 10 years.
Thank you kindly for this video. I appreciate. Just bought one of your gaskets for my X5
Thank you for wrenching with us!
Great video, thank you for your good explanation. I recently purchased a 2009 e93 328i, N52 engine, and I have a terrible smell from the engine bay and when I turn on AC, it comes to the interior through air vents. Actually, it is like a burning smell and very bad. The seller told me that the valve cover gasket was replaced. So, I checked VCG and it seems no oil around the edges. I am not sure if the Oil Filter Housing Gasket may lead to this kind of burning oilish smell. According to your experience, is that possible? (PS: there is no trace of oil leaking from the front side but not sure underneath the intake manifold.)
Great Video!!!
What is the root cause of the OFHG leak poor design, lack of maintenance / oil changes, faulty mickey mouse coolant gasket or all of the above?
Was there any special priming needed to be done before installing the new oil filter?
Would it be a good time to replace the coolant expansion tank since there also known to fail?
Those oil bottles are designed to be poured with the cap at the top of the edge when pouring, produces a much smoother pour right off the batt.
Isn't it necessary to prime the oil system before starting the car? If so, what is the method to do this. Thanks.
You probably already did the job but I didn’t, I just added some oil to the housing, I did have a fair amount of lifter tick on the first startup after, but I also did my vc gasket
Definitely prime your oiling system. Did the same procedure and blew my engine .
Love you presentation and attention to detail. Thanks for posting.
Hi, did you replace the bolts for the oil filter housing ? Arnt they aluminium and one time use?
Love the n52 videos keep them rolling! Do you need to replace the Mickey Mouse flange bolts? Or reuse old ones ok?
If a magnet sticks to the bolt, you can reuse it. If not, dont. Some audi bolts can be used 2x...and they want you to mark them with a chisel after the first reuse. Dont mess with aluminum/magnesium bolts, just replace them.
@@kingofbrutaltheocracy9201 agreed.. after much research and many many jobs later on the n52 I’ve learned that now . Lol appreciate the advice and facts .
If only BMW would use some quality gaskets, they wouldn't be notorious for oil leaks
Is there any videos showing how to replace the head gasket on a E90
Just wondering: why drain the oil and coolant? I had oil leaks and my mechanic didn't mention it to me but he inspected the car and changed fluids; his shop is for european cars, too. How did he miss this?
I understand that you don't lose torque with the extension, but wouldn't you lose torque with the E10 swivel socket? (since it swivels / connects to the bolt at an angle). Should we adjust for this in any way by setting the torque wrench a little bit higher?
Some audio issues on this? I've got the volume cranked, holding the phone to my eardrum and I can barely hear anything.
Clean your ears3
Would it be same process for n51?
Wondering if anyone knows the part number for the filter cage that resides within the oil filter itself and attaches to the underside of the cap.. can easily find replacement caps but no insert. It's for a 2006 330i.
Excellent video, very informative and well done. Made this repair easy. Thank you
The cage is part of the filter cap; if it has separated, then we recommend replacing the cap!
So many incorrect information about the bolts being used on the oil filter housing. For the N52 engine, the oil filter housing bolts are steel. Not aluminum. Take a magnet to the bolts to see for yourself. Also, the torque setting for these bolts are 15-16lb-ft, well below the max ratings for these bolts. These steel bolts are rated at 35lb-ft, but can handle even more. Of course, it never hurts to use brand new oil filter housing bolts. But it adds no benefits either.
@@johnnywalker5635 have you confirmed your bolts with a magnet? I work on many e90 engines.
@@hammertimee777 I have an e82 with the N51 motor. Just replaced my OFHG and just by feeling the weight of the bolts I can also agree they’re steel. Maybe not all the motors or just older models have aluminum.
@@ryanholt1214 I agree. I think as these gaskets become a common failure item, BMW has started using steel bolts for the oil filter housing to avoid additional and inconvenience. The updated new replacement bolts from dealers are indeed steel. No need to replace them if existing ones are steel
@@hammertimee777 2006 E90 330i: bolts were magnetic but not sure if already replaced. the new ones in gasket kit from FCP Euro were also steel (magnetic)
Hi you doing. you guys but by accident I change my oil filter gasket and I didn’t tight enough and somehow oil gets into water line and know I have oil in radiator. I did a flush already but still oil.
I don’t think is a blow head gasket since my car never overheating before and car is not running hot. What could be the problem so I can fix my car before get bad. Thank you.
what did you find out?
just changed my ofhg and plugged all the sensors back and put back intake put in new coolant and oil… checked to see if it leaks or has weird noises didnt sound weird at all drove it for 4 miles and the car stopped working and didnt want to start🥹 wjat could be the issue it cranks but not starting up
Extensions dont change the torque but sadly the u joint decreases torque as the angle increases. This was overlooked.
If the gasket is defective, can engine oil flow into the coolant auxiliary tank?
Anyone have the oil and coolant mixing at the filter housing and mimicking a blown head gasket? I'm hoping that's my problem, as there's oil all over by the filter housing, and when I take the cap off, the oil is foamy.
Yeah, the gasket has basically got oil and coolant with a fucking perineum between it, and it gave birth
Great video as always guys, just one question, what are the most common size etorx sockets for diy on bmws? An etorx set is kind of expensive here in my country, I rather buy 'em individually, thanks in advance
I got the kit recently and then realized it didn't include the cooler seal and it wasn't showing up as a part option when i searched my car on the site. I assume it isn't a common issue that should be replaced but the website seems to think it isnt a part for my car. BMW E90 N52 330i 2006
You have updated the Mickey mouse flange to the aluminum one? Is that right?so do you have it in store? Thank you Gareth!! Great content as always.
Should I replace my oil pressure switch? Or is it not really needed?
I heard even with the swivel socket, I can’t remove the bolt that is underneath intake because it is long and will be blocked by intake. Not sure who is right.
Does anyone know if after I drain the coolant, do I need to bleed the coolant system?? Thanks In advance I’m pretty new to cars!
Anytime you do a drain and refill, you will always have to bleed the system.
Could this result in the coolant reservoir being filled with oil?
yall should make videos on the f10 chassis n55
Hi,
Many thanks for the very useful video.
I have couple of questions please: I just noticed that the radiator reservoir in my BMW e92 has oil inside (not sure how oil ended up mixing with the water there): (1) how serious is this, I mean can I still drive the car or this is an emergency repair? (2) Does the same job in the video fix the issue? Thanks
If you have oil in your coolant, or coolant in your oil, there is definitely a problem. Yes, it could be from this housing, but could be a head gasket leak. That would be particularly bad, but unlikely unless you've overheated (is your water pump working?).
Can i buy the tools and parts that you recommend for a 2014 328 ixdrive??
Did you prime the engine after changing the gasket?
Very helpful video
Is this the same for the N51 engine thanks
Does oil need to be changed after? I just changed oil 2 weeks ago:( im doing coolant flush but does engine oil need to be replaced too?
While not mandatory, it is a nice to do, as you are going to be doing the oil filter at the same time.
Do you need to replace the bolts with new ones if I were to buy only the gasket ?
Hi Damian, you will want to replace the housings hardware whenever doing this DIY.
if drop something into the oil return passages got block, how can i clean it?
Can the oil filter gasket leak oil into the coolant?
Starting fluid cleans it up nice maybe ...
1:09 pushes the ... ?
Didnt understand the last part?
What it pushes?
Ok question is can the oil leaking for the ofh mess up crankshaft sensors and wires ? Just last week a had to change the Mickey Mouse part since it literally shredded pretty sure due to the leaking. Like you said plastic heat & oil don’t mix well . Should’ve replaced the ofhg at the same time from what I’m seeing but again wasn’t thinking about it too much on the spot
Over a long period of time it may degrade the exterior of them or oil may work its way into the connector. Best bet is to clean it all up well post OFHG replacement.
Hello does fcpeuro sell the tool to loosen the drain plug on radiator? Can't seem to find the tool anywhere
Hello, would this be a similar procedure to change the coolant flange and oil filter housing gasket for a 2011 e92 xdrive?
Yeah it’s the same process
Can you suggest a tension range for a torque wrench please .
What was the mileage on this N52?
BTW....these are awesome videos...I am almost ready to buy one of these N52's. This looks easy.
Now...if it wasn't for that VANOS!
i bought a 328xi with 140km on it...i think thats like 100k miles? anyways i didnt need to do anything to it till now... my cars reaching 200kms and so far ive
all 6 coils and spark plugs
Changed valve cover
Changed eccentric shaft gasket
Changed valve cover gasket
Changed valvetronic motor gasket
Changed oil filter housing gasket
all at once...when youre there and everything is open its better to do it then. my car came with a valve cover leak and a miss fire since i bought it plus..the engine light was on loool. i was 22 when i got the car with my pops and eevryone was looking at me like im an idiot (theyre probably right). and ways you'll love the car because it handles like nothing youve ever driven. also...suspension...im doing all the arms and everything now.
plus...
Transmission Oil change + filter + Gasket + screws
im 25....if i can do it with basic hand tools anyone can. im not a pro or anything...just crazy enough to work on a bmw in my dads garage lool
If you do, check for oil gunk or any leakings. Stay away. But if you dont mind replacing the gaskets. (Its very easy) get the car
Having an N51 doesn't matter right? Same process?
Is it necessary to add rtv silicone it between gasket to make it seal better or it's best to leave the gasket as how it is?
MR Lambo, you do not want to use any gasket maker for the oil filter housing replacement, just the new gaskets is all you need.
@@fcpeuro I did without and the project was a success. No more leaks and I noticed the difference right away thanks for the heads up on 💪👍
Excellentttt Video Sir, Great Detail. Question @16:38 you mentioned head bolt snaps off. I have a 2013 x5 35i 3.o litre turbo. is this problem with the 2013 also? ty
That's a completely different engine. 2013 is the crossover between generations so I don't know what engine you have. If it has aluminium parts it may be a problem
@@CaptJofaz ,Ty for your input, it is a N55 ENGINE TURBO TY sir
After I change the cover gaskets , my car have a vacuum leak (I think) is any way to fix that . I have a 328i 2011 N52
Hi Rafael, the best thing to do is to perform a vacuum leak test/smoke test and see where the issue is. From there, you can see if it needs a new valve cover or a gasket wash pinched/didn't seal properly.
Hoe long does this job take? 2 hours? Just so I can do it myself, on the driveway
I have questions if I draining all that Antifreeze from the radiator .... how many gallon I need to refill please 🙏
If you drain out the bottom of the radiator only (no lower hoses removed from the water pump), you will need 1.5 gallons. Get a new O-ring for the radiator drain too.
Will this fix lean engine codes ? P0174 & P0171
Interested get video N54 e9x oil pan gasket replacement.
So what do I do if that head bolt is snapped off😂
Are new bolts for the housing required or can you reuse the old ones?
@Chris Rich:. YES!
New bolts are required. See at 21:55 all bolts used are new.
General rule, if the bolts are aluminium -> New Bolts. If the bolts go in to the engine head, or other aluminium parts -> New Bolts.
Anyone knows what's the part number of that bolt that always snap on the head? I've been looking for it on RealOem but cant find it
How would you re torque the bottom bolt if i don't take off the mickey mouse flange?
Hello there I have a 525i 07 I want to replace the oil cooling gasket I need to drain the coolant from radiator ?
Hi Colin, it would be advisable to do so as to avoid drenching the front engine components in fluid!
thanks
👍
Do you absolutely need to drain the coolant?
Unless you want a pool of coolant on the underpan of your car
Can just plug or clamp the hose
Tommyfyeah placed an order for 6 spark plugs. You guys sent 5 with one of those in a ziplock bag wtf!?😂
thattttss not right bboydrae, please contact service@fcpeuro.com if you haven't already and we will get the taken care of properly for you.
@@fcpeuro ruclips.net/video/NJZxuJrTzTE/видео.html @4:05 here is the link check it out.
Is this the same process for the n54/55 engines ?
N55 is pain in the back. You need to loose the intake manifold to get the bolt hidden behind the housing. N54 is also need to do so
does this cause overheating by chance?
Scottypimpin it should not cause any overheating, no. Did that happen to you?
Is it possible to have coolant mix with your oil through the oil housing gasket failing? I noticed the leak and opened my oil cap and could see the death milk on the cap. got a long weekend ahead next weekend.
that's what I'm wondering about mine. What did you find out with yours?
@@DefinitelyShaun It was indeed mixing through the oil filter housing.
Non car related comment: That beard looks good on ya
I was unable to remove the bottom bolt using a 8mm wrench and my swivel torx and extension couldn’t sit on the bolt at the back. I am not planning to remove the Mickey Mouse. Any suggestions on what tools to use would be really helpful.
What did u use
@@shitnutzx2 I kept the job on hold and reconnected everything.
Best idea is to remove the Mickey Mouse flange and replace it with an aluminum version - as you have seen, they rot and WHEN it cracks and lets go, you will be out at night far from home in the rain. Since there is no temperature gauge on these cars, you won't know until the engine overheats and steam starts pouring out from the hood. Just do it.
Dude! Nice. Thanks
No problem!
Does anyone know the proper link for coolant hose flange o-ring? Need one for my n53 engine
great stuff. thanks!
i have a question about the mickey mouse flange. how do you get a new clamp on it and do you have to cut off the old one ?
Yes, you have to remove the old clamp and replace it with one that can be tightened externally, i.e. a plain old radiator hose clamp. Best idea is to use a big channel lock pliers and smash the old plastic flange (once removed from the engine) which will be brittle and fish out ALL of the pieces - clamp may be able to slide off then.
Like Mr.Dorsal said, a vice with soft rubber grips will also do the trick!
What did you replace the clamp with on the mickey mouse flange?
I used a normal screw-drive, stainless steel hose clamp.
Let me tell you... this turned into the job from hell 0 -60 real quick for me lol SMH
No need to prime the oil system on the n52 like the n54 or n55? Good to know!
Interesting that they didnt do the coolant bleeding procedure also
Gracias😂
Where did you buy that 1/4 E10 socket from?
The one that goes under the manifold
Amazon
fyi: a 3/8" universal joint with 3/8 E10 doesn't fit. there's very little clearance as bolt angles 45-degrees up. a 1/4" universal joint with a 1/4 E10 (I had to use a 1/4" 8mm) does fit to crack the bolt and mostly unloosen, the last part you have to do by hand as the medium length bolt leaves no room. Make sure you have some way to seat a socket on this bolt BEFORE you bother to drain oil and coolant; otherwise you'll have to rig something like I did to finish. in short: 1/4" E10 with integrated swivel would be best but 1/4" universal joint will work.