wow. i know that thrill of a successful first boot. but it's been too many years since i experienced it. i may have to rectify that situation. well done, amigo. but remember... if you're resting on your laurels, you are wearing them on the wrong end. 😆
Thanks John. I'm not happy with this iron though, or specifically the tips. I've had issues with the tips before where they were just too loose on the element causing the tip not to get hot enough. Long story short, I bought some proper Yihua ones for the iron, but the fitment still isn't great. I'm running the iron hotter than I should be really, which obviously then has it's own problems. I just cant keep buying loads and loads of tips just on the off chance some fit well. Any ideas there greatly appreciated (other than just buying a new iron 😂)
I might have to give them a look. It's not that my iron is 'bad' but some tips just don't hold the heat like they should. BTW thank you so much for the 'coffee' 😊 What do you make of the irons that have the tips and heating element all in one unit? That seems like a really good idea
Good start to an interesting project - hooe you can get all the bits on the surprisingly extensive bill of materials (amazing how many components go into it!) For getting axial components to sit in consistent line, I've 3D printed myself a component bender.. really handy! Happy to sling one kn the post to you 👍🏻
If you have a 3d printer, you can find files to print a tool for bending the legs of the axial components.It's much neater than trying to bend them over some random item and get the spacing right. It's also a great idea to install all the low-profile passive components first. Edit: Not meaning too be "that guy" critical RUclips commenter, but you are using an excessive amount of flux. It won't hurt anything, but it's a bit wasteful and makes clean up more difficult. Your solder should be internally fluxed and if you have your iron temp properly set, that should be all you need. liquid flux is also a better choice for through hole components in my opinion, as it's easier to meter.
Thanks Dennis. Unfortunately I don't have a 3D printer. It's on my long list of things I would like eventually. Do you mean you don't like my peg? 😂 I'm sure you're right about the flux. I will try wean myself off using so much as you're right, it can be a pain to shift. I need to stop buying really cheap solder too as the stuff I use has a bit but it's minimal. I can only blame myself there though 😢 BTW I'm not one to crumble with some criticism. I appreciate it. Anything I can learn from comments is more than welcome 😁
*_NOTE :_* you do NOT want to use "Rubbing Alcohol" for cleanup. it contains additives that could cause issues with the electronics. in the video, he is using "Isopropyl Alcohol" which is much more pure, and does not run the risk of damaging electronics.
Hi Denver. Thanks for the comment. The solder I'm using currently is some really cheap stuff. There's very little flux in it, but I agree, I could get away with adding less. I don't think this is amusing the blobby joints though. I think the cause of that is user error. I'm just adding a bit too much solder. It's really difficult to judge with my camera getting in the way. I'm going to have to see if I can find a better position for the camera without my head then getting in the way 😁
I built the 4V board using a donor board that was unrepairable, took me 2 years lol but was a great feeling when I saw the Sinclair screen.
I'm really hoping it won't take me 2 years, but my budget is tight at the moment so who knows 😂
wow. i know that thrill of a successful first boot. but it's been too many years since i experienced it. i may have to rectify that situation. well done, amigo. but remember... if you're resting on your laurels, you are wearing them on the wrong end. 😆
@JohnLeePettimoreIII 😂
your soldering skills have definitely leveled up.
Thanks John. I'm not happy with this iron though, or specifically the tips. I've had issues with the tips before where they were just too loose on the element causing the tip not to get hot enough.
Long story short, I bought some proper Yihua ones for the iron, but the fitment still isn't great. I'm running the iron hotter than I should be really, which obviously then has it's own problems. I just cant keep buying loads and loads of tips just on the off chance some fit well.
Any ideas there greatly appreciated (other than just buying a new iron 😂)
@@RetroComputingReboot check *_WELLER_* brand gear. it does cost a bit more, but for decades they have supplied me with solid tools.
I might have to give them a look. It's not that my iron is 'bad' but some tips just don't hold the heat like they should.
BTW thank you so much for the 'coffee' 😊
What do you make of the irons that have the tips and heating element all in one unit? That seems like a really good idea
@@RetroComputingReboot Cheers, drink to your health.
@JohnLeePettimoreIII Bless you and good health to you too
Good start to an interesting project - hooe you can get all the bits on the surprisingly extensive bill of materials (amazing how many components go into it!)
For getting axial components to sit in consistent line, I've 3D printed myself a component bender.. really handy! Happy to sling one kn the post to you 👍🏻
That would be awesome 😎. Did you not like my peg? 🤣
If you have a 3d printer, you can find files to print a tool for bending the legs of the axial components.It's much neater than trying to bend them over some random item and get the spacing right. It's also a great idea to install all the low-profile passive components first.
Edit:
Not meaning too be "that guy" critical RUclips commenter, but you are using an excessive amount of flux. It won't hurt anything, but it's a bit wasteful and makes clean up more difficult. Your solder should be internally fluxed and if you have your iron temp properly set, that should be all you need. liquid flux is also a better choice for through hole components in my opinion, as it's easier to meter.
Thanks Dennis. Unfortunately I don't have a 3D printer. It's on my long list of things I would like eventually. Do you mean you don't like my peg? 😂
I'm sure you're right about the flux. I will try wean myself off using so much as you're right, it can be a pain to shift. I need to stop buying really cheap solder too as the stuff I use has a bit but it's minimal. I can only blame myself there though 😢
BTW I'm not one to crumble with some criticism. I appreciate it. Anything I can learn from comments is more than welcome 😁
*_NOTE :_*
you do NOT want to use "Rubbing Alcohol" for cleanup. it contains additives that could cause issues with the electronics. in the video, he is using "Isopropyl Alcohol" which is much more pure, and does not run the risk of damaging electronics.
Thanks John. You've hopefully saved someone having a bit of a disaster.
Most solders have flux in them I’ve never needed to use so much flux for thru hole soldering I wonder if that’s why your joints are so blobby?
Hi Denver. Thanks for the comment.
The solder I'm using currently is some really cheap stuff. There's very little flux in it, but I agree, I could get away with adding less.
I don't think this is amusing the blobby joints though. I think the cause of that is user error. I'm just adding a bit too much solder. It's really difficult to judge with my camera getting in the way. I'm going to have to see if I can find a better position for the camera without my head then getting in the way 😁
+2A Max 48 PCB or Mahjong PCB.