I'm really grateful for your generosity in making this series of videos. I started learning to build guitars as a retirement hobby and I'm not very accomplished so far, but you are inspirational and I'll try and move forward (I've been a fan of your website and guitars for a long time). I'm also a retired filmmaker and would like to compliment camera and editing skills for a good job. Many thanks.
Ok made it to the end! First of all, thank you so much for sharing your process and expertise. This really inspires me and how I want to take my building forward. I had some follow up questions for you: 1) have you tried using an oil/shellac combo a la Eugene Clark on the top coat or at any layer? 2) Would the epoxy wipe off finish faster or thinner with a rag soaked/damped with alcohol? 3) do you buff/ steel wool at the end of the finishing process? 4) how does this finish impact the tone and have you/would you use it on a flat top? 5) do you seal the inside of the plates and rim as well? Thank you soooo much!
Hey Robert! Good questions, I think I just answered all of these for others. Maybe poke around the comments and see if I've left anything out? I'm trying to figure out how to handle the questions in the best way, and maybe I'll just wait a bit after releasing the series, then do a video Q&A that will be comprehensive.
Only if there's a problem, which I try very hard not to allow. The coats are super thin, and sanding is not required if you wipe perfectly. 0000 steel wool will erase most little issues, if needed.
Thanks Ken for your intelligent approach to all things guitar building. I've been using Tru Oil and Renaissance Wax on my necks for sometime now. Not liking a high gloss neck finish. Wondering about the epoxy seal coat before hand on the body. Do you use as a pore filler? Seams like both these woods are fairly tight grained. Also what's you opinion of Z-poxy finishing resin? And I agree totally the Italian Chestnut is absolutely beautiful.
You're most welcome! The epoxy forms a thin layer of plastic resin mainly within the wood, so a bit of pore filling is bound to happen, but when you're done applying it to an open pore wood like the curly Italian chestnut we like so much, it still appears very open and unfilled. The sparkle and reflectivity of a very smooth wood surface is largely the exceptionally shiny inside surface of each cellulose tube, which are a probably a bazillion times smoother and more reflective than anything we can accomplish by polishing the wood with our various means. Traditional pore fillers normally contain opaque pigments, which block all this reflective glamor. I suppose its not so bad to fill with something without pigment, like this epoxy, but getting it to do the job evenly without soaking the guitar with a spray gun, and having to sand a lot of material off, then go over it again to try to get the pores that were unfilled is a very steep challenge, and, in my opinion, a toxic mess to be avoided, ask me how I know. If you unlock the secret to easy and successful pigment free pore filling, pray tell! I never tried Z-Poxy, and so have no opinion. How do you like it?
I just read through my reply, and noticed that I didn't mention that I don't use pore filler ever, and as far as I know, nobody can make me. I like it when the wood looks and feels and sounds like wood and not like 6mm of clear epoxy bonded (?) to a tabletop. Whew, now I feel better. I can usefully quote by buddy Michael Greenfield, ""Finishing" is an oxymoron." Seriously, though, I suspect that you may really like your neck finish even more by starting with this painless sealer/primer clear epoxy coat; just don't forget to wash off the amine blush before you apply Tru-Oil!
@@kenparkerarchtoppery9440Thank you very much for your reply Ken. I've been building and repairing guitars for over 20 years now. Not my day job so it gets squeezed in when possible. My main focus has been solid body electrics and so a lot of high gloss finishes. Most people like high gloss finish. The Z Poxy is a finishing resin that is a 1:1 mix and a bit more amber looking than the product you use. I had a problem with coating over it and stopped using it not knowing about the film you mention that needs washing off. Anyway not to rattle on, I'm soon building a OM Martin style acoustic and am very grateful to have found your finishing system. It will be perfect for this guitar. Thanks again Ken, appreciate it.
@@kenparkerarchtoppery9440, absolutely plan to add the epoxy step to my neck finishing. And I'm very familiar with the tru oil finish having used it with the wax on a ES-335 style all mahogany bass. Love the feel. going to add the epoxy step the next time and try it out. Thanks again for the info and taking the time to write a very thoughtful reply.
Hello Ken, a few questions sorry to bother: Any consideration when using stains? Can It go trough the epoxi, or would It be better using It before(or just using something different like shellac) Other luthier's using tru-oil sand between coats. With your method it is not really needed right(considering how thin you apply it)? Could it be wheel buffed being careful about how hot it get's, or is it too risky? Have you tried other oil varnishes? There's a few acoustic guitar builders quite passionate about alkyd short oil varnish, for example. Thank you very much for these videos, looking forward to the next
So many good questions! Please find out about the stain thing and let me know how it works, I'll be in your debt! Sorry, I'm such a nerd, I really have no idea what other builders are doing, just trying to satisfy myself. I'm terrified of buffing wheels, no thanks! I've tried almost everything, and this is the finish I wanted to show you, it really works!! Color is just not my thing, but please consider yourself a research fellow, and share your findings!
I used Truoil for my last guitar. Its surprisingly durable and can be sprayed no problem at about 8-10 pounds from an HVLP. Doesnt effect the sound in any bad way either
I have heard this from others. glad it's working for you. I like hand wiping this material so much, I'll never try another method. It's easy, and if you can get going early, you can apply 3 coats/day, and have perfect control of the surface. My days of atomizing finish are behind me. Yuck.
Perfection! Do you have another recommendation for the ground coat? The least expensive West Systems epoxy set I can find (105A and 206A) is eighty bucks, and I only have one guitar to use it on. I love your result. Can it be achieved a bit more economically for someone like me, who's just finishing their own guitar? Thank you for the lesson!
Hi Ken, I have been using Tru-Oil for 8 years, and if you apply the last coat of Tru-Oil with 000 steel wool, the surface finish becomes even more beautiful. Of course, you have to wipe off as you go. Try :)
Great looking guitar, and of course beautiful finish. Some questions if I may: the epoxi is a pore filler or just a base coat, or both? You don't sand between any of the coats? Many thanks
I don't fill pores, cause I took a straw poll, and the majority of pores just don't wanna be filled. Sometimes I do use 0000 steel wool if there's a problem, like a speck or a smear of finish that didn't get wiped up perfectly. I try to work accurately so I don't have to, but it's no biggie to do it. Can also use Carborundum EZ touch sanding sponge, micro fine, 1200 =1500 grit. Kinda like a magic wand in the sandpaper arsenal.
@@kenparkerarchtoppery9440 Thanks for the reply. (By the way, sorry if my English is not accurate but I'm Portuguese, so...). Always a rare and amazing privilege to get some insights of the ones we regard as true masters! One or two more questions (sorry). You use the steel wool or the "magic wand" :) only to solve anything not quite well or also between one of linseed oil coats? And forgive for the continued questions "bulling": You use the 105 Epoxy and the 205 hardener, in the West System its available the 407 or 410 surface filling. What do you think about it. In your finish system could you use it or its not worth it, regardless of the tonewood used? And more :( to give you more working time, what about the 206 or 209 hardener (or you get best finishing results from 205?) Last one ... and any thoughts about the use of the 207 Clear coating?
Thank you for those videos. I think I will try this on my bass i’m currently building. I don’t think one coat of epoxy will be sufficient to fill the big pores of the wenge though.
Hey Ken.. Okay I'm hooked on the videos and all caught up to the present, now the question: To buy one of your wonderful guitars, do I need to sell my car? both cars? or my house? Thanks, Ray.
Ray! I'd say look in your closets for guitars and effects you used to play a lot, but no longer reach for. I have several clients who bought their guitars by selling stuff on EBay this way, and are glad they did.
@@kenparkerarchtoppery9440 Hey Ken, thanks for responding! yeah, if I have to ask, I can't afford it right? c'mon just an idea (ballparker) I do really want one pretty badly...
Hi there Mr.Parker ! I preparing to do your way to paint my solid guitar but the west system is very hard to get in Taiwan, could I use shellac to instead of west system epoxy? If it is work ,I still wipe off shellac like your epoxy processing? Please let me know how to work on it ! I’m so Appreciate it!
Dear Ken, thank you so much for sharing this with us !
Glad you enjoyed it!
This series has been almost Warholean. Appreciated, thanks Ken!
Like Uncle Andy, you mean?
@@kenparkerarchtoppery9440 yes!
Thanks for demonstrating the finish process so well.
Glad you liked it. I love this finish, it works so well, and it isn't a toxic disaster or ecological crime!
I'm really grateful for your generosity in making this series of videos. I started learning to build guitars as a retirement hobby and I'm not very accomplished so far, but you are inspirational and I'll try and move forward (I've been a fan of your website and guitars for a long time). I'm also a retired filmmaker and would like to compliment camera and editing skills for a good job. Many thanks.
Wait till I tell my crew! Thanks!
Thank you for showing the whole process. The finish/body looks great.
You bet!
OMG! That is a work of art.
Many thanks!
I love it. Definitely going to spend some time experimenting with this. Thanks Ken!
Go for it!
Thanks Mr Parker for sharing this information with us :)
My pleasure!
Where did you go, Ken? I’ve become addicted to this series.
Braces series coming right up!
I'm addicted too!
Woohoo!
Ok made it to the end!
First of all, thank you so much for sharing your process and expertise. This really inspires me and how I want to take my building forward.
I had some follow up questions for you:
1) have you tried using an oil/shellac combo a la Eugene Clark on the top coat or at any layer?
2) Would the epoxy wipe off finish faster or thinner with a rag soaked/damped with alcohol?
3) do you buff/ steel wool at the end of the finishing process?
4) how does this finish impact the tone and have you/would you use it on a flat top?
5) do you seal the inside of the plates and rim as well?
Thank you soooo much!
Hey Robert! Good questions, I think I just answered all of these for others. Maybe poke around the comments and see if I've left anything out? I'm trying to figure out how to handle the questions in the best way, and maybe I'll just wait a bit after releasing the series, then do a video Q&A that will be comprehensive.
Gorgeous
Looks great !
Thanks!
Hi Ken! Thanks for giving an insight look in your workshop. May I ask if you do sanding between the coats? Thanks and regards! Flo
Only if there's a problem, which I try very hard not to allow. The coats are super thin, and sanding is not required if you wipe perfectly. 0000 steel wool will erase most little issues, if needed.
Thanks Ken for your intelligent approach to all things guitar building. I've been using Tru Oil and Renaissance Wax on my necks for sometime now. Not liking a high gloss neck finish. Wondering about the epoxy seal coat before hand on the body. Do you use as a pore filler? Seams like both these woods are fairly tight grained. Also what's you opinion of Z-poxy finishing resin? And I agree totally the Italian Chestnut is absolutely beautiful.
You're most welcome! The epoxy forms a thin layer of plastic resin mainly within the wood, so a bit of pore filling is bound to happen, but when you're done applying it to an open pore wood like the curly Italian chestnut we like so much, it still appears very open and unfilled. The sparkle and reflectivity of a very smooth wood surface is largely the exceptionally shiny inside surface of each cellulose tube, which are a probably a bazillion times smoother and more reflective than anything we can accomplish by polishing the wood with our various means. Traditional pore fillers normally contain opaque pigments, which block all this reflective glamor. I suppose its not so bad to fill with something without pigment, like this epoxy, but getting it to do the job evenly without soaking the guitar with a spray gun, and having to sand a lot of material off, then go over it again to try to get the pores that were unfilled is a very steep challenge, and, in my opinion, a toxic mess to be avoided, ask me how I know. If you unlock the secret to easy and successful pigment free pore filling, pray tell! I never tried Z-Poxy, and so have no opinion. How do you like it?
I just read through my reply, and noticed that I didn't mention that I don't use pore filler ever, and as far as I know, nobody can make me. I like it when the wood looks and feels and sounds like wood and not like 6mm of clear epoxy bonded (?) to a tabletop. Whew, now I feel better.
I can usefully quote by buddy Michael Greenfield, ""Finishing" is an oxymoron."
Seriously, though, I suspect that you may really like your neck finish even more by starting with this painless sealer/primer clear epoxy coat; just don't forget to wash off the amine blush before you apply Tru-Oil!
@@kenparkerarchtoppery9440Thank you very much for your reply Ken. I've been building and repairing guitars for over 20 years now. Not my day job so it gets squeezed in when possible. My main focus has been solid body electrics and so a lot of high gloss finishes. Most people like high gloss finish. The Z Poxy is a finishing resin that is a 1:1 mix and a bit more amber looking than the product you use. I had a problem with coating over it and stopped using it not knowing about the film you mention that needs washing off. Anyway not to rattle on, I'm soon building a OM Martin style acoustic and am very grateful to have found your finishing system. It will be perfect for this guitar. Thanks again Ken, appreciate it.
@@kenparkerarchtoppery9440, absolutely plan to add the epoxy step to my neck finishing. And I'm very familiar with the tru oil finish having used it with the wax on a ES-335 style all mahogany bass. Love the feel. going to add the epoxy step the next time and try it out. Thanks again for the info and taking the time to write a very thoughtful reply.
Hello Ken, a few questions sorry to bother:
Any consideration when using stains? Can It go trough the epoxi, or would It be better using It before(or just using something different like shellac)
Other luthier's using tru-oil sand between coats. With your method it is not really needed right(considering how thin you apply it)?
Could it be wheel buffed being careful about how hot it get's, or is it too risky?
Have you tried other oil varnishes? There's a few acoustic guitar builders quite passionate about alkyd short oil varnish, for example.
Thank you very much for these videos, looking forward to the next
So many good questions! Please find out about the stain thing and let me know how it works, I'll be in your debt!
Sorry, I'm such a nerd, I really have no idea what other builders are doing, just trying to satisfy myself.
I'm terrified of buffing wheels, no thanks!
I've tried almost everything, and this is the finish I wanted to show you, it really works!!
Color is just not my thing, but please consider yourself a research fellow, and share your findings!
Thank you.
You're welcome!
I used Truoil for my last guitar. Its surprisingly durable and can be sprayed no problem at about 8-10 pounds from an HVLP. Doesnt effect the sound in any bad way either
I have heard this from others. glad it's working for you. I like hand wiping this material so much, I'll never try another method. It's easy, and if you can get going early, you can apply 3 coats/day, and have perfect control of the surface. My days of atomizing finish are behind me. Yuck.
Very informative. Will you cover making bindings later in the series?
Gonna try to get to everything!
Perfection! Do you have another recommendation for the ground coat? The least expensive West Systems epoxy set I can find (105A and 206A) is eighty bucks, and I only have one guitar to use it on. I love your result. Can it be achieved a bit more economically for someone like me, who's just finishing their own guitar? Thank you for the lesson!
I'd say visit a boatbuilder, and see if you can get the small amount you'll need.
@@kenparkerarchtoppery9440 Thank you for the suggestion. I'm fairly land-locked, but you never know.
awesome!
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi Ken, I have been using Tru-Oil for 8 years, and if you apply the last coat of Tru-Oil with 000 steel wool, the surface finish becomes even more beautiful. Of course, you have to wipe off as you go. Try :)
Great tip!
How so? Not trying to be a wise guy, I really have no clue what the steel wool does. More matte? More shine? Smoother?
Ken - Thank you for sharing this with everyone! Question: Is this the same process / product(s) that you use on the neck of your guitars?
Bazakly.
Great looking guitar, and of course beautiful finish. Some questions if I may: the epoxi is a pore filler or just a base coat, or both? You don't sand between any of the coats? Many thanks
I don't fill pores, cause I took a straw poll, and the majority of pores just don't wanna be filled.
Sometimes I do use 0000 steel wool if there's a problem, like a speck or a smear of finish that didn't get wiped up perfectly. I try to work accurately so I don't have to, but it's no biggie to do it. Can also use Carborundum EZ touch sanding sponge, micro fine, 1200 =1500 grit. Kinda like a magic wand in the sandpaper arsenal.
@@kenparkerarchtoppery9440 Thanks for the reply. (By the way, sorry if my English is not accurate but I'm Portuguese, so...). Always a rare and amazing privilege to get some insights of the ones we regard as true masters! One or two more questions (sorry). You use the steel wool or the "magic wand" :) only to solve anything not quite well or also between one of linseed oil coats? And forgive for the continued questions "bulling": You use the 105 Epoxy and the 205 hardener, in the West System its available the 407 or 410 surface filling. What do you think about it. In your finish system could you use it or its not worth it, regardless of the tonewood used? And more :( to give you more working time, what about the 206 or 209 hardener (or you get best finishing results from 205?) Last one ... and any thoughts about the use of the 207 Clear coating?
Thank you for those videos. I think I will try this on my bass i’m currently building. I don’t think one coat of epoxy will be sufficient to fill the big pores of the wenge though.
Good luck!
Hey Ken.. Okay I'm hooked on the videos and all caught up to the present, now the question:
To buy one of your wonderful guitars, do I need to sell my car? both cars? or my house?
Thanks, Ray.
Ray! I'd say look in your closets for guitars and effects you used to play a lot, but no longer reach for.
I have several clients who bought their guitars by selling stuff on EBay this way, and are glad they did.
@@kenparkerarchtoppery9440
Hey Ken, thanks for responding! yeah, if I have to ask, I can't afford it right? c'mon just an idea (ballparker) I do really want one pretty badly...
Hi there Mr.Parker !
I preparing to do your way to paint my solid guitar but the west system is very hard to get in Taiwan, could I use shellac to instead of west system epoxy? If it is work ,I still wipe off shellac like your epoxy processing? Please let me know how to work on it ! I’m so Appreciate it!
Shellac is awesome, but bears no other similarity to epoxy. Shellac has been used for centuries, have at it!