Been doing 5w-30 for a few years now....I have a big smile on my face after I heard what you had to say 😊 haven’t had any issues yet! Good video and to the point! Thanx, really helped doing my first oil change!
Nice video, thanks! I really like that you mentioned about making sure the gaskets on both the plug and the filter don't stick to the block. I did an oil change years ago and I ended up with double gaskets on the filter. It leaked like a Harley!! Haha!
Very thorough with clean shots. And the explanation of the oil viscosity was great. That was one of the main reasons I was looking up this type of video!
Use the manufacturer recommended 5-20. The Triton motor has an oil pump that is weak. In addition, the other reason that these engines have so many issues, is because the oil passages are small and become clogged. The thicker the oil, the quicker you will start to have issues.
I watched this video to find out how many quarts of oil I need. It's funny that so many people freak out in the comments when you start with 5, go to 6, and then find out you actually need 7. I'm like......why are you watching the video if you already know everything about doing this job? Are they just watching it to critique and comment? Read the manual.....well....maybe I bought the truck used and I don't have a manual and these RUclips videos are a nice quick and easy way to find out huh?
No, mixed-viscosity oils don't get thicker as they warm up. At 0 degrees, they have viscosity similar to a lighter oil at 0 degrees, and at 100 degrees they're as viscous as a heavier oil would be at that temperature. So viscosity still goes down, just not as much with straight grade. This is why oil pressure is high when the engine is cold, and a little lower when hot.
What I'm saying is that 30 is thicker than 20, I'm comparing the hot viscosity of two different oils. The one that is on the cap and the one I'm choosing to use.
My owners manual on my 08 says to use specifically motorcraft oil and filter. Or any 5w20 oil that matches the specifications number. Glad To see I’m not the only one using mobile one, that doesn’t even match the specs number.
Well done video. Could have said which side of engine the filter is on. Olde filter black, hard to spot. Found it after a bit of a search. Also helpful to mention where you entered under frame to reach drain plug. Thanks.
FINALLY..someone that knows how to do an oil change, too many rookies post videos on UTube. I use 5w-30 in all 3 of my vehicles with the 5.4 3v engines, the engine just loves that stuff. In 50 years of changing my own oil I have never pre-filled the oil filter, it's not needed. But, I remove the oil filler cap as the first step though , I want to make sure that no vacumm is created within the engine block when I remove the drain plug. A vacuum may cause the PCV to stick, just a pre-cautionary step.
@@carlwheeler3403 Thats fair! I wouldn’t mind if mine had a big problem because then I can pull it and do a whole rebuild series. Normal I’m exactly the same as you. If ford didn’t put it in I’m not doing it. But on this older truck I was willing to roll the dice. Seems to really help and quiet things down.
I say it at the end. 7 is just such an odd number I was suspecting 6. But I would always add up to a quart under then check it. It is way easy to add oil than it is to remove it. Thank you for watching!
Somehow this doesn't surprise me. Every ford I have owned seems to take 1 quart more than what the manual says. It always made for an amusing exchange between myself and whoever changed my old Mustang's oil before I started doing it myself. "my computer says 5 quarts not 6" "No it's 6. trust me, I know more about my car than you do."
These 5.4Lt Engines should always take 7 quarts providing you've drained it completely. I like to open my cap and drain it over night, preferably on a weekend. This engine has a variable valve timing system. So it basically runs off you oil pressure. Thru your vct solenoids and camshaft phasers. (Timing) Unless you've done a timing job, your oil pump is original. Fords (low pressure) oil pump combined with your vct's and cam. phasers, all run off oil pressure so inturn, it's super important to change your oil from 5W 20 to 5W 30! Also I would recommend changing your oil every 5000 miles if not 3000. As I stated, this engines only flaw is, it's oil pressure, which inturn can mess up you Camshaft Phasers & VCTs (timing). It's "Alot" cheaper to look after the oil, then possibly have to do a timing job on this engine.
I've been running Mobil1 Full Synthetic 10W-30 for a few years with a 2004 5.4 F150. Summer and winter no problems. Has original cam phasers lifters etc.
I didn't notice you mention that in several models there is only one way to approach the oil filter. Under the license plate there is a little archway leading straight to it. I have the 2004 lariat and this is the only way, short of removing the engine, to get ahold of the oil filter. Also the 2 piece dipstick has a tendency to fold.
I bought my truck a few months ago and just did an oil change. My filter wrench wouldn't work so I had to do the ol punch a screwdriver and loosen it trick.
The 5.4 L 3 valve timing job is a dealer only repair because no one else will even touch 5.4L 3V engines anymore... and your dealership repair reciept will be in the $4,500 range...!
I have a 2006 f150 I was always told to use a mix blend on the oil. I’m gonna take your word and give it a shot. As my truck now has 165,000 miles on it.
A MIX BLEND?? Never heard of that one before. Be careful with that one. I’ve done motor craft synthetic oil 5-30 on my 04’ Lariat with 172,000 miles on the clock it runs fantastic
I used the 5w 20 because I didn’t know any better lol and ... I only ran it for like 3 days then it gave me a message saying low pressure .. As soon as it gave me that I pulled over .. do you think I could have messed up the pump :/
Just so you everyone here knows that all 5.4 don't take only 6qts.. some take 6.5 qts and some take 7 qts. The 5.4 with the sqaure air filter on the intake takes 7qts of oil. If it had a round air filter by the fender then it take 6-6.5qts.... how do I know this? I'm a Ford certified technician.
@@2carpros well i don't need to watch til the end on how to change oil. I'm well aware of how to do that.. I worked on engines, rear ends, t-cases over hauls, and everything in-between besides the trans.... a friend sent me this video and asked me if this was the proper way to change his own oil in which I enlightened him it was. Don't think my original comment was to be negative or rude to you or your channel. I was just trying to help others as well who may not know their 5.4 may take more then 6qts.
so was I taught wrong ? I was always told when refilling after an oil change to pit in what the manual says, with the caveat that there is always a little bit left in the engine, so if it takes 7 quarts,put in six and let it sit for 5mins. Check it and add more until you hit the top mark ( no more). The big issue I have is that we were always told NOT to start the engine and fill the oilways, if you start it ,you must leave it to let the oil drain back to the sump before checking. The oil level is measured in the sump,not correct level in sump plus full oilways. IMHO this engine is overfilled. It should be 7 quarts not 7 plus oilways.
My reman 5.4 triton during the break in period.began having issues . With 5-20 and wix filter . Blinking CEL, hard shaking ,no engine power. Pulled over . Had plans to change oil near end of break in .so I had oil and filter on my truck . Spun off the wix and noticed the anti drain back media had ripped/tore and was blocking 2 of the inlet holes on the filter . Primed and replaced.Then dropped the 5-20 and replaced with mobile 5-30 full synthetic. (Same products as in video) No issues so far . This f250 hauls a trailer and skid steer daily. Dump trailers etc . Only time will tell . Up date: Jan 2021 : changed reman engine again about to start from 0 again .
Okay I’m having issues. I did everything as followed, put 7qts and I’m having a hard time seeing a level on the dip stick. I start the truck a couple of times and just idled. Suggestions?
I have an 06 f-150 STX 4.6 Liter. What oil grade and filter would you use for that model? I can’t find any motor craft oil filters for that model. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Also how do you feel about marvels mystery oil? I also wanted to use a bottle of Moto flush, my engine has 201,000 miles. Is it safe on an older engine?
I have never tried one, I have thought about buying one for use off camera. But I would never show it on camera because it is fairly expensive and I don't expect people to own something like that. Thanks for watching!
Some advice lose the damn socket. They sometimes rock to the side a little and you stand a better chance of rounding off your drainplug. Get yourself a good box end wrench. Been changing my oil since 1965 I am now 70 and in good shape so I still change my own oil. I am not trying to be a know it all sir just trying to give you some advice to help you out. You by no means have to take it. I hope you have a nice day. Thankyou
I live in Florida and I own a lawn care and landscaping company. I am switching it to 100 synthetic went with the mobile 1 you showed in this video but question can I run 5w 30 even though I am towing? I am also hoping it helps with the knocking coming from the motor due to I think the timing department lol
So 5w30 makes that much difference? That's crazy just asking y'all I'm sure that's not what's in it I bought it used hadn't changed it yet 04 f150 5.4L v8 3v fx4 style side
@@kelvenguard There is nothing wrong with the oil passages. These engines sludge up from poor oil drain intervals and low quality aftermarket oil filters. 5w30 oil is fine to use.
@@dperr338 I have 39 years Auto-Body and I'm a GM/CHEV guy.... I have Three 2004 5.4 Fords in my Yard 2 with broken motors and the one with the highest Km at 380,000 Running Prefect my Nephews that he got off his Grampa has had 5W-20 from NEW... The Mechanics online say these have poor design heads with small oil ports that plug up and my friend said he replaced a Plastic oil pump for a steel one in his.... Put 80-90W GEAR Oil in it for all I care I'll stick with GM Trucks :)
@@dperr338 I traded my friend a Half finished 1987 Chev Show Truck for his 2004 Ford Lariat Loaded, the Cam Phasers went out TWICE at 280,000km he ran 5W-30... the REASON I did the Research.... SELLING the Ford with 5W-20 and buying a Nice GM or Chev... SEAFOAM the 5.4 before EVERY Oil change will help with sludge build also.... TONS of Videos on YT "WORST ENGINE EVER" is the 5.4 three valve from FORD !!!
@@kelvenguard 2004 was the first year they went to 3vs and cam phasers. They were the worst couple years for these trucks. 2008-2010 seem to be much better.
Next time poke a hole near 12 o clock on the oil filter and don’t put the drain nut on until you swap out the filter. More oil gone come oil once you poke a hole on that filter
@@Chase_01 you should only put 5 w 20 in the 5.4 engine it was not designed for 10 w 30 it's to heavy and will do damage on cold start ups and starve the engine I destroyed engines in the past using heavier oil
@@MattTigers There's so much debate over what measurement of oil should be used in the 5.4l 3v engine the reality that only matters is how often you change your oil thats what keep the engine running and lasting longer not the weight of the oil and besides there not much difference between 5w20 or 5w30 but that one will make it eat more gas the protection comes from how often you change the oil best to keep it as clean as possible
Take a water bottle tip it upside down, take the cap off. Observe what happens. Now apply that principle to an engine and oil. Might flow faster with the cap off but not by much. Thanks for watching!
Lol I’m trying to visualize your reply here. Because tipping a water bottle over and removing the lid is not the same as taking the oil cap off then the drain plug. Take the water bottle flip it and cut a hole in the top then take the lid off is way faster than not having a hole in the top. Lol
there is sure better access to that ilter than on the 07. thin oil can let the pressure be low eneough to make the timing chain tic and the engine lite come on due to cam out of alignment. a little thicker oil will fix this with better pressure. the older the heavier the oil.
Orson Hornbeam That’s totally incorrect. The number before the W is the cold viscosity. The number after is the warm viscosity. That’s the main reasoning for multi grade oils. The thinner or lighter weight oil helps to aid in cold starts As the motor warms up the additives thicken the oil to the proper operating viscosity.
Orson Hornbeam Because that’s the idea and why multi grade oil was engineered in the first place. The W stands for winter and is the weight of the oil at cold temp. Google it if you still doubt it.
We are going to rebuild this engine on a whole series at some point. Unfortunately I live in California and it wouldn't pass smog with the lockout. Thanks for watching!
I just switched to Mobil 1 advanced full synthetic high mileage 5-30 today and that oil filter is a PAIN. Is your radiator support rusting to death also? Expeditions love to rot there GRRR
Nice switch! Can't go wrong with full synthetic. Yeah it is really wide so it is hard to get a grip. No I don't have any rust there. A little on the roof due to the paint chipping off. Early 2000s paint is not so good due to new EPA standards that were introduced. Thanks for watching!
@@dannyzamudio1252 They say there are extra additives in there to condition the seals so they don’t leak when cars get over 100,000 miles or so mine has 251,000 miles on it and I do not have too many leaks but I still use high mileage
As the engine gets older meaning high miles the clearances wear so going from a 5/20 weight oil to 5/ 30 is a good thing I won’t explain clearances you can Google that yourself.😁
Haven't experienced that. Does it feel like maybe the drive shaft slip yoke is binding in the transmission? I know that's common on these and it often feels like a violent stall. I have a great video on that if you need it. Thanks for watching!
So what does the slip yoke feels or looks like, i’ve already check out your slip yoke video, how can you tell if slip yoke need to be clean like you did in the video? Thank you, i subscribe 👍
yes, i have and you can google it the 5.4 triton sucks wind. cam phase issue I think. I am thinking of replacing it. the dealership want to sell you another engine but can't promise that it will fix it. I think ford is in serious need of a class action law suit, if one hasn't been already started. let me know what you find
I'd swap out the spark plugs and the ignition coils. The timing issues they apparently have would be the second thing I look at. Research removing the plugs, if it has a certain kind and they are the original, you need to get them hot, pull the coils, fill the spark pug channel with carb cleaner and then crack the plug back maybe 1/4 turn. Let it sit, then tighten down a hair, back out 1/2 turn, tighten down 1/4 turn, back out 1/2, tighten 1/4, etc until it is freed up. Think breaking the chip on a tap. The ceramic bit will shatter on those and then you have to buy a special tool to extract the broken plug bits. I did the soak then slowly remove method and all 8 came out no problem. Don't be afraid to use more carb cleaner after getting the plugs a little ways out if they feel really sticky.
5.4 triton motor hold 7.0 quarts of oil to support the cam and the oil pump hash tag marks one is the low mark and the other in the max mark they told me to use 6 full synthetic and one Lucus full synthetic to top it off at the 7 quarts
@@2carpros well I made the mistake with Auto Zone telling me to put 6 quarts of oil in the 5.4 triton motor and I started getting a ticking noise than I did some in-depth research and found through the owners manel it takes 7.0 quarts and the ticking went away and the engine runs smooth and better gas mileage also from Esperance to through in a quart of full synthetic Lucas because of the way the timing chain and cam phasers are set up which they were right either way you can use the Lucas or step up the game and use the 5-30 weight oil the 5.4 triton is a good motor over all rated for up to or over 500.000 miles been proven
I think it was a AirRaid system. I replaced it with a stock unit though. The truck was purchased 2nd hand with that intake installed. So I got a stock intake from LKQ and put it on. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros I'd prefer full but since semi is all it's ever known my buddy said to just keep what's working. No cam chatter yet so I ain't changing its diet lol
the BIG problem with the 3-valve 5.4 is small oil ports that Sludge up and starve the engine parts inside for oil... My friend also said there is a Plastic oil pump in a 5.4 that fails or starves the engine of oil... I wonder if 5W-30 is Why the Cam Phasers Fail because of Sludge and thicker oil ??
So that sludge builds up because of lack of oil changes. If you change it often with thicker oil you are probably better off. Thinner oil might not cut it, I don't know I'm not a mechanical engineer. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros I have 39 years Auto-Body and do All my own mechanics... I have three 2004 5.4 in my yard 2 broken motors or cam phasers problems 250,000km & 300,000km... The One truck running prefect at 380,000km has had 5w-20 from New and I wouldn't say changed always on time knowing Grampa & my Nephew the 2 owners... Mechanics online say this is a Very Poor designed Engine with Very Small Oil Ports that plug up easy... My friend said the Factory Oil Pump is a Plastic Gear... Not sure about the plastic gear But Mechanics online say 5.4 have Very Poor Oil pumps... So I think its a Combo of Oil related problems that starve the Motor of oil... I like GM then Dodge Toyota Nissan etc, Ford would be Last on my list.... If I were to Buy one I would really look into the Oil problems BEFORE any issues appeared and Fix them and run the Lite oil 5w-20 with a Oil additive like the New Seafoam...
Check out Fordtechmakuloco on RUclips. He is the internet guru on these 5.4 3v engines. He got Melling to make a hi-flo oil pump for this engine that solves the fail point with the cams.
If your getting a "thick Sludge" oil, it's mostly due to short trips. Condensation will start to build up from short trips causing a Sludge like oil. If you live more northern it's a common problem. Your better off doing oil changes every 3-5000 miles using 5W30.
I have a5.4 2 valve and 2 5.4 3 valve fords i don't know why the ford manuals for the vehicles tell you to put 6 quarts in them when i can put 7 in them and have the oil level at or near the full line on the stick
With this super fragile engine 5k with full synthetic to be safe. Usually it is 8k or so. But Ford really dropped the ball with the design of this engine so it needs super clean oil all the time. Thanks for watching!
Been doing 5w-30 for a few years now....I have a big smile on my face after I heard what you had to say 😊 haven’t had any issues yet! Good video and to the point! Thanx, really helped doing my first oil change!
Very cool! Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros Is the oem drain plug on the 2005 f150 magnetic ? Thanks
Nice video, thanks! I really like that you mentioned about making sure the gaskets on both the plug and the filter don't stick to the block. I did an oil change years ago and I ended up with double gaskets on the filter. It leaked like a Harley!! Haha!
Always good to double check! Thanks for watching!
I just did this…
Very thorough with clean shots. And the explanation of the oil viscosity was great. That was one of the main reasons I was looking up this type of video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
You are absolutely correct about using a 5W30 in these 5.4 engines.
Really?
Why ?
Use the manufacturer recommended 5-20. The Triton motor has an oil pump that is weak. In addition, the other reason that these engines have so many issues, is because the oil passages are small and become clogged. The thicker the oil, the quicker you will start to have issues.
Not really
@@brentbradley6711 so. I guess you'll put a 20w50 on it?
I just watched this video, I wasn’t any thing back 5 years ago but my tool would have helped you with that filter. Great work sir
Bummer! Next time! Thanks for watching!
Awesome video. I’ve never done this before and your step by step made it easy to follow. Thank you!!
I swear youtube has saved me so much on mechanic fees. Thousands probably
sniffin glue I can I agree ☝️
Doing this today in my 2005. Great video. Thanks for the help and the information!
Nice! thanks for watching!
Your wife gonna be mad when she sees you using her clean white towel for that 😂😂
Good thing she doesn't exist lol Thanks for watching!
I watched this video to find out how many quarts of oil I need. It's funny that so many people freak out in the comments when you start with 5, go to 6, and then find out you actually need 7. I'm like......why are you watching the video if you already know everything about doing this job? Are they just watching it to critique and comment? Read the manual.....well....maybe I bought the truck used and I don't have a manual and these RUclips videos are a nice quick and easy way to find out huh?
That's what I think too. Thanks for watching!
No, mixed-viscosity oils don't get thicker as they warm up. At 0 degrees, they have viscosity similar to a lighter oil at 0 degrees, and at 100 degrees they're as viscous as a heavier oil would be at that temperature. So viscosity still goes down, just not as much with straight grade. This is why oil pressure is high when the engine is cold, and a little lower when hot.
What I'm saying is that 30 is thicker than 20, I'm comparing the hot viscosity of two different oils. The one that is on the cap and the one I'm choosing to use.
My owners manual on my 08 says to use specifically motorcraft oil and filter. Or any 5w20 oil that matches the specifications number. Glad To see I’m not the only one using mobile one, that doesn’t even match the specs number.
Well Ford really dropped the ball with the 3v 5.4l. So we gotta improvise to make them last long as possible. Thanks for watching!
When you sais 6 quats you've scared me. 😅😅😅😅. I always put 7 quarts. Good job buddy 🤠👍
Well done video. Could have said which side of engine the filter is on. Olde filter black, hard to spot. Found it after a bit of a search. Also helpful to mention where you entered under frame to reach drain plug. Thanks.
if you need to know where the drain plug is i dont think you should be changing your own oil
@@tvon4966 you're the problem if you actually believe that
@@tvon4966Hehehwhe OH!
FINALLY..someone that knows how to do an oil change, too many rookies post videos on UTube. I use 5w-30 in all 3 of my vehicles with the 5.4 3v engines, the engine just loves that stuff. In 50 years of changing my own oil I have never pre-filled the oil filter, it's not needed. But, I remove the oil filler cap as the first step though , I want to make sure that no vacumm is created within the engine block when I remove the drain plug. A vacuum may cause the PCV to stick, just a pre-cautionary step.
I even put 2 quarts of Lucas oil stabilizer in it now. Really seems to like it! Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros you have more nerve than I do, I don't add any fluids that weren't in the engine when it was new.
@@carlwheeler3403 Thats fair! I wouldn’t mind if mine had a big problem because then I can pull it and do a whole rebuild series. Normal I’m exactly the same as you. If ford didn’t put it in I’m not doing it. But on this older truck I was willing to roll the dice. Seems to really help and quiet things down.
Just did my 2004, same thing with the 7 quarts. just wanted to check with you first. Right on Brother.
Nice work!
Ford issued a technical service bulletin for all their late model vehicles, changing the Ford specified oil weight from SAE 5w 20 to SAE 5w 30...!
Right away, you said 16mm. Instant thumb up!
Also 5/8” works on factory oil plug - nice and snug!
Thanks for that!
@@2carpros Yep! I saw that my Harbor Freight impact set had 15mm and 17mm - but not 16! LOLOL
The 5.4 takes 7 quarts, not 6, per the owner's manual.
I say it at the end. 7 is just such an odd number I was suspecting 6. But I would always add up to a quart under then check it. It is way easy to add oil than it is to remove it. Thank you for watching!
2CarPros good video.
Somehow this doesn't surprise me. Every ford I have owned seems to take 1 quart more than what the manual says. It always made for an amusing exchange between myself and whoever changed my old Mustang's oil before I started doing it myself. "my computer says 5 quarts not 6" "No it's 6. trust me, I know more about my car than you do."
Depends what year the 5.4 is
Answered all my questions! Great tutorial.
Glad it helped!
These 5.4Lt Engines should always take 7 quarts providing you've drained it completely. I like to open my cap and drain it over night, preferably on a weekend.
This engine has a variable valve timing system. So it basically runs off you oil pressure. Thru your vct solenoids and camshaft phasers. (Timing) Unless you've done a timing job, your oil pump is original. Fords (low pressure) oil pump combined with your vct's and cam. phasers, all run off oil pressure so inturn, it's super important to change your oil from 5W 20 to 5W 30! Also I would recommend changing your oil every 5000 miles if not 3000. As I stated, this engines only flaw is, it's oil pressure, which inturn can mess up you Camshaft Phasers & VCTs (timing). It's "Alot" cheaper to look after the oil, then possibly have to do a timing job on this engine.
Great advice this is what I'm going through now and am switching to 30now dropping my oil today
I'll take your word for it, just picked one up at auction going to do an oil change seems like others agree to do 5W-30 so i''ll do that!
Dude thanks for the video. Super appreciate all the info and your chill tone. Great work👍
Thanks so much for watching!
I've been running Mobil1 Full Synthetic 10W-30 for a few years with a 2004 5.4 F150. Summer and winter no problems. Has original cam phasers lifters etc.
Very nice! Thanks for watching!
Why would you do that. What's your motive? Why not use recommended specs for your engine
@@tomorrowcomestoday1621 The government plays a big part in it. Same engine in Mexico uses 10W-30.
How many L of oil you put in the motor ?
I'm very interested in how much oil you use? Any long term issues ? About to do my first oil change on my 06 f150 5.4L
I didn't notice you mention that in several models there is only one way to approach the oil filter. Under the license plate there is a little archway leading straight to it. I have the 2004 lariat and this is the only way, short of removing the engine, to get ahold of the oil filter. Also the 2 piece dipstick has a tendency to fold.
Thank you!!! I've been trying to find the damn thing for 15 minutes
Thanks for the easy steps and input on the 5W30
You are the best, dude. Thank you so much for this video. Absolutely excellent.
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching!
I bought my truck a few months ago and just did an oil change. My filter wrench wouldn't work so I had to do the ol punch a screwdriver and loosen it trick.
Nice work! Thanks for watching!
I removed the plastic air tube above it. It was one screw, and loosened filter from the top.
I use 10w-30 conventional, runs smooth and no cam phaser ticking
Lucky dog! Thanks for watching!
Is that what has mine sounding like an old ragged out diesel lol?
Yeah 10 W 30 Pennzoil teams to do mine pretty good it runs pretty smooth
The 5.4 L 3 valve timing job is a dealer only repair because no one else will even touch 5.4L 3V engines anymore... and your dealership repair reciept will be in the $4,500 range...!
Wish I could have seen how you got to the oil filter from the top as I can’t see the filter from the top, thanks Mike
I have a 2006 f150 I was always told to use a mix blend on the oil. I’m gonna take your word and give it a shot. As my truck now has 165,000 miles on it.
I have a 2005 with 303,000 miles… still runnin BOY!!!!
A MIX BLEND?? Never heard of that one before. Be careful with that one. I’ve done motor craft synthetic oil 5-30 on my 04’ Lariat with 172,000 miles on the clock it runs fantastic
I used the 5w 20 because I didn’t know any better lol and ... I only ran it for like 3 days then it gave me a message saying low pressure .. As soon as it gave me that I pulled over .. do you think I could have messed up the pump :/
Just so you everyone here knows that all 5.4 don't take only 6qts.. some take 6.5 qts and some take 7 qts. The 5.4 with the sqaure air filter on the intake takes 7qts of oil. If it had a round air filter by the fender then it take 6-6.5qts.... how do I know this? I'm a Ford certified technician.
Someone didn't watch to the end of the video! Thanks for watching. Always nice to have Ford Certified techs come in for a refresher :)
@@2carpros well i don't need to watch til the end on how to change oil. I'm well aware of how to do that.. I worked on engines, rear ends, t-cases over hauls, and everything in-between besides the trans.... a friend sent me this video and asked me if this was the proper way to change his own oil in which I enlightened him it was. Don't think my original comment was to be negative or rude to you or your channel. I was just trying to help others as well who may not know their 5.4 may take more then 6qts.
Thank you very much first time I'm going to change oil my ford f 150
You can do it!
so was I taught wrong ? I was always told when refilling after an oil change to pit in what the manual says, with the caveat that there is always a little bit left in the engine, so if it takes 7 quarts,put in six and let it sit for 5mins. Check it and add more until you hit the top mark ( no more).
The big issue I have is that we were always told NOT to start the engine and fill the oilways, if you start it ,you must leave it to let the oil drain back to the sump before checking. The oil level is measured in the sump,not correct level in sump plus full oilways. IMHO this engine is overfilled. It should be 7 quarts not 7 plus oilways.
yup 7 quarts is what the 5.4 takes.
Socket oil filter remover worked with a short extention and breaker bar.
Thanks Bro, I got frustrated today trying to unscrew the filter by hand I'm getting me the Chanel locks tool tomorrow.
Oh yeah the only way to go! Thanks for watching!
This helped sooo much, thanks
I'm so glad!
I use T6 5w-40 in the 5.4 with not trouble at all. Also hardly any cold weather in south Texas.
How many miles have you got on it though? If it's below 200,000 then I wouldn't expect any problems with anything you use.
10w40 oil Is it suitable
Thanks for sharing it's very helpful.
You are welcome!
My reman 5.4 triton during the break in period.began having issues . With 5-20 and wix filter .
Blinking CEL, hard shaking ,no engine power.
Pulled over . Had plans to change oil near end of break in .so I had oil and filter on my truck .
Spun off the wix and noticed the anti drain back media had ripped/tore and was blocking 2 of the inlet holes on the filter . Primed and replaced.Then dropped the 5-20 and replaced with mobile 5-30 full synthetic.
(Same products as in video)
No issues so far . This f250 hauls a trailer and skid steer daily. Dump trailers etc .
Only time will tell .
Up date: Jan 2021 : changed reman engine again about to start from 0 again .
Okay I’m having issues. I did everything as followed, put 7qts and I’m having a hard time seeing a level on the dip stick. I start the truck a couple of times and just idled. Suggestions?
I have an 06 f-150 STX 4.6 Liter.
What oil grade and filter would you use for that model? I can’t find any motor craft oil filters for that model. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Also how do you feel about marvels mystery oil? I also wanted to use a bottle of Moto flush, my engine has 201,000 miles. Is it safe on an older engine?
Thank you; very helpful. Have you tried the vacuum pump oil drain systems? Just wondering if it makes doing the oil change any easier.
I have never tried one, I have thought about buying one for use off camera. But I would never show it on camera because it is fairly expensive and I don't expect people to own something like that. Thanks for watching!
Great video ; but the plug next to the oil pan bolt for ?
Some advice lose the damn socket. They sometimes rock to the side a little and you stand a better chance of rounding off your drainplug. Get yourself a good box end wrench. Been changing my oil since 1965 I am now 70 and in good shape so I still change my own oil. I am not trying to be a know it all sir just trying to give you some advice to help you out. You by no means have to take it. I hope you have a nice day. Thankyou
I 2nd on the box end wrench, atleast then you are able to see if it's turning well or not 😊
Beleive it or not my '08 is still under an extended bumper to bumper warranty there for ill be doing exactly what the manual says.. 5w-20 it is.
lol
How has the mobile 1 5w30 and motorcraft filter treated your truck?
Just fine. Been using it since this video was made and it's my daily driver. Thanks for watching!
I live in Florida and I own a lawn care and landscaping company. I am switching it to 100 synthetic went with the mobile 1 you showed in this video but question can I run 5w 30 even though I am towing? I am also hoping it helps with the knocking coming from the motor due to I think the timing department lol
That's the oil I use and I tow all the time here in the desert. Should quiet down that sound a bit. Thanks for watching!
So 5w30 makes that much difference? That's crazy just asking y'all I'm sure that's not what's in it I bought it used hadn't changed it yet
04 f150 5.4L v8 3v fx4 style side
Now I put 10W40 and Lucas oil stabilizer in. But I can't say that officially due to internet armchair exerts.
Gracias x tu video, thank you very much for your video
I always have added 8 qts., 230000 miles with 5W20 synthetic, got some
lifter noise now so probably going with the 30 wt next change
I would stick with what your doing 5w-20..... These 5.4 have very small oil ports that Sludge up and very poor factory oil pumps
@@kelvenguard There is nothing wrong with the oil passages. These engines sludge up from poor oil drain intervals and low quality aftermarket oil filters. 5w30 oil is fine to use.
@@dperr338 I have 39 years Auto-Body and I'm a GM/CHEV guy.... I have Three 2004 5.4 Fords in my Yard 2 with broken motors and the one with the highest Km at 380,000 Running Prefect my Nephews that he got off his Grampa has had 5W-20 from NEW... The Mechanics online say these have poor design heads with small oil ports that plug up and my friend said he replaced a Plastic oil pump for a steel one in his.... Put 80-90W GEAR Oil in it for all I care I'll stick with GM Trucks :)
@@dperr338 I traded my friend a Half finished 1987 Chev Show Truck for his 2004 Ford Lariat Loaded, the Cam Phasers went out TWICE at 280,000km he ran 5W-30... the REASON I did the Research.... SELLING the Ford with 5W-20 and buying a Nice GM or Chev... SEAFOAM the 5.4 before EVERY Oil change will help with sludge build also.... TONS of Videos on YT "WORST ENGINE EVER" is the 5.4 three valve from FORD !!!
@@kelvenguard 2004 was the first year they went to 3vs and cam phasers. They were the worst couple years for these trucks. 2008-2010 seem to be much better.
I'm using 15W40 DIESEL OIL FOR MY 2004 FORD 15O 5.4 TRITON GAS MOTOR REDUCED DIESEL SOUND DRAMATICALLY.
That's interesting. Does it maintain oil pressure? Thanks for watching!
Can I put Coors banquet in there instead? I hear it makes the engine happier.
That might make US happier! But I assure you your engine wouldn't dig it. Thanks so much for watching!
BDR! BIG TIME!
Great video, brother!
Thanks for watching!
Is it cheaper to do oil changes at home or should I just take it to Walmart or someplace to get it changed for me
It's much cheaper to do at home and you know the job is done right. Thanks for watching!
Great video 👍🏾
Next time poke a hole near 12 o clock on the oil filter and don’t put the drain nut on until you swap out the filter. More oil gone come oil once you poke a hole on that filter
I run 10w 30 and it’s actually what I recommend
Thats a little too thick and hard on cold start ups in the 5.4 most damage to engines is at cold start ups
Jake Wright so they say the whole weak oil pump thing is a myth
@@Chase_01 you should only put 5 w 20 in the 5.4 engine it was not designed for 10 w 30 it's to heavy and will do damage on cold start ups and starve the engine I destroyed engines in the past using heavier oil
@@Wright10301973 America is the only country where 5w20 specified for the 5.4l 3v, due to CAFE standards. Everywhere else its 5w30.
@@MattTigers There's so much debate over what measurement of oil should be used in the 5.4l 3v engine the reality that only matters is how often you change your oil thats what keep the engine running and lasting longer not the weight of the oil and besides there not much difference between 5w20 or 5w30 but that one will make it eat more gas the protection comes from how often you change the oil best to keep it as clean as possible
now time for Culver's
It just might be! It needs tires though.
get the Goodyear duratracs that's what I got on mine
I was thinking those or Grabber X3s
yeah those are nice
Good work on finding this channel btw lol
First thing take the oil cap off. Then proceed to take the oil pan plug off. Better flow through the engine.
Take a water bottle tip it upside down, take the cap off. Observe what happens. Now apply that principle to an engine and oil. Might flow faster with the cap off but not by much. Thanks for watching!
Lol I’m trying to visualize your reply here. Because tipping a water bottle over and removing the lid is not the same as taking the oil cap off then the drain plug. Take the water bottle flip it and cut a hole in the top then take the lid off is way faster than not having a hole in the top. Lol
there is sure better access to that ilter than on the 07. thin oil can let the pressure be low eneough to make the timing chain tic and the engine lite come on due to cam out of alignment. a little thicker oil will fix this with better pressure. the older the heavier the oil.
He mentioned a lift video in the beginning of the video, can anyone reply with the link please?
ruclips.net/video/xLFn_bMkZc0/видео.html
Thanks for watching!
I have a 2005 4.6,but the video was helpful,thanks
Nice! Thanks for watching!
Same her, like to see everyone 's input VERY INTERESTING 😊
Great video. Thanks 👍
I have this same f150 with the 4.6 engine how many quarts to I put in that
6 quarts. Thanks for watching!
I just saw this today I was thinking of using a k&n hp 2010 oil filter was it be just as good
Yeah they make good filters, I just feel they are over priced personally. Thanks for watching!
I live 8n the south nc we have mild winters isv5w30 ok to use it maw get extremely cold for about a month maybe two
Yeah 5w-30 would be good. Thanks for watching!
I have a 2004 F 150, 4*4, would the 5w-30 oil still apply to it even though it says 5w-20?
I put 2 bottles of lucas in plus 5 quarts of 5W-30 these days. It's totally fine. Thanks for watching!
Great video!
Thank you so much for watching!
If that's a 5.4, then it takes 6.97 quarts. Also, the 5w refers to the "hot" viscosity. An easy way to remember is "5 *W* hen hot, 30 when not).
That is very very close to 7 quarts. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros made this comment before you ended up at 7 qts.
Orson Hornbeam That’s totally incorrect. The number before the W is the cold viscosity. The number after is the warm viscosity. That’s the main reasoning for multi grade oils. The thinner or lighter weight oil helps to aid in cold starts As the motor warms up the additives thicken the oil to the proper operating viscosity.
@@ponderthisfamily2126 You're correct. I always assumed it was vice versa. My error.
Orson Hornbeam Because that’s the idea and why multi grade oil was engineered in the first place. The W stands for winter and is the weight of the oil at cold temp. Google it if you still doubt it.
I got the motorcract oil filter but it looks much larger than the filter on it. Is this okay or am I being too paranoid.
Yep! The FL820S is a little wider of a body but the mounting surface and threads are the same. It is totally cool! Thanks for watching!
Save yourself an engine replacement and do the cam fazer lockout. 5.4 was a great engine until they put in the vct and that 3rd valve
We are going to rebuild this engine on a whole series at some point. Unfortunately I live in California and it wouldn't pass smog with the lockout. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros we don’t have those pesky stipulations here in Missouri lol
Where is your 7th qt. of oil?
I just switched to Mobil 1 advanced full synthetic high mileage 5-30 today and that oil filter is a PAIN.
Is your radiator support rusting to death also? Expeditions love to rot there GRRR
Nice switch! Can't go wrong with full synthetic. Yeah it is really wide so it is hard to get a grip.
No I don't have any rust there. A little on the roof due to the paint chipping off. Early 2000s paint is not so good due to new EPA standards that were introduced.
Thanks for watching!
Why high mileage for?
@@dannyzamudio1252 They say there are extra additives in there to condition the seals so they don’t leak when cars get over 100,000 miles or so mine has 251,000 miles on it and I do not have too many leaks but I still use high mileage
I had a metal washer only f150 5.4 triton engine
I added a rubber washer is that ok? Plug metal washer and gasket on the top
As long as it doesn't leak you are good. But as long as the metal washer is in good shape you are all good. Thanks for watching!
Hello, I have a ford f150 2010, the oil plug was replaced with an oversize plug, How do i change the oil ?
I'm not sure I understand. Just get a larger sized socket and remove it. Thanks for watching!
As the engine gets older meaning high miles the clearances wear so going from a 5/20 weight oil to 5/ 30 is a good thing I won’t explain clearances you can Google that yourself.😁
Mkay so while you are Googling things you might want to look up what the "W" stands for in oil. Because it isn't weight.
@@2carpros tee hee
Is it ok to add Lucas oil mixture(thickenr) along with 5w30?
Yeah totally. I put two quarts of Lucas with 5 quarts of 5w30. Works great for me! Thanks for watching!
Is your f150 ever have a stalling or adling, like shaking when start or at the stop sign?
Haven't experienced that. Does it feel like maybe the drive shaft slip yoke is binding in the transmission? I know that's common on these and it often feels like a violent stall. I have a great video on that if you need it. Thanks for watching!
2CarPros thank you for responding, it shaking really bad when stop its like the truck going to die, even worse when i turn the AC on,
So what does the slip yoke feels or looks like, i’ve already check out your slip yoke video, how can you tell if slip yoke need to be clean like you did in the video? Thank you, i subscribe 👍
yes, i have and you can google it the 5.4 triton sucks wind. cam phase issue I think. I am thinking of replacing it. the dealership want to sell you another engine but can't promise that it will fix it. I think ford is in serious need of a class action law suit, if one hasn't been already started. let me know what you find
I'd swap out the spark plugs and the ignition coils. The timing issues they apparently have would be the second thing I look at. Research removing the plugs, if it has a certain kind and they are the original, you need to get them hot, pull the coils, fill the spark pug channel with carb cleaner and then crack the plug back maybe 1/4 turn. Let it sit, then tighten down a hair, back out 1/2 turn, tighten down 1/4 turn, back out 1/2, tighten 1/4, etc until it is freed up. Think breaking the chip on a tap. The ceramic bit will shatter on those and then you have to buy a special tool to extract the broken plug bits. I did the soak then slowly remove method and all 8 came out no problem. Don't be afraid to use more carb cleaner after getting the plugs a little ways out if they feel really sticky.
Also do I have to drain the oil lines because I am switching to 100 synthetic? If so how do I do that?
You are fine just draining and filling. After 2 changes it will be 100 percent flushed out with synthedic. Thanks for watching!
5.4 triton motor hold 7.0 quarts of oil to support the cam and the oil pump hash tag marks one is the low mark and the other in the max mark they told me to use 6 full synthetic and one Lucus full synthetic to top it off at the 7 quarts
Interesting. I have heard all kinds of tricks to keep the 5.4 going over the years. I always love reading them honestly. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros well I made the mistake with Auto Zone telling me to put 6 quarts of oil in the 5.4 triton motor and I started getting a ticking noise than I did some in-depth research and found through the owners manel it takes 7.0 quarts and the ticking went away and the engine runs smooth and better gas mileage also from Esperance to through in a quart of full synthetic Lucas because of the way the timing chain and cam phasers are set up which they were right either way you can use the Lucas or step up the game and use the 5-30 weight oil the 5.4 triton is a good motor over all rated for up to or over 500.000 miles been proven
2:24 That's a lot of grunting for 10 foot lbs lmao
I'm weak, don't judge me. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros hahaha. fair enough. but you look like you could bench press a house
Lol thank you. The most I ever benched was 365. I doubt I could do that now. So I could probably bench a children's play house!
@@2carpros hahaha yeah a thought so to
Great job thank you
Fantastic! +1 SUB!
Thanks for the sub!
why not prime the filter? ford put it in such the perfect angle for priming lmao
@@jimdailey1985 why
oil goes right in the filter when you put oil in, fill your oil up without your filter see what happens
I run 5w30 in my 5.4 but its a 2v. Quiets the top end down a lot
it is ok to use 6 quarts of mobil 1 oil, even though the capacity is 7 on my 5.4 triton 2006 Ford
You will be a quart down and these engines really don't like to have less oil. Thanks for watching!
Good video 👍
Glad you enjoyed!
How many courts of oil do I put in my 2005 f150 5.4L v3 xlt 4+4 ?
7 quarts, thanks for watching!
what is the air intake system you have on in this video?
I think it was a AirRaid system. I replaced it with a stock unit though. The truck was purchased 2nd hand with that intake installed. So I got a stock intake from LKQ and put it on. Thanks for watching!
I have an airaid system with synthetic filter (no oil) stock airbox custom tube no issues to speak of just wash and go
I use 5W-30 Motorcraft semi synthetic. Per a buddy that's a Ford Master Tech
I like full synthetic personally. Also a little thicker due to age and design but hey that's me. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros I'd prefer full but since semi is all it's ever known my buddy said to just keep what's working. No cam chatter yet so I ain't changing its diet lol
@@metalgate1979 Fair enough! Don't fix what aint broke!
the BIG problem with the 3-valve 5.4 is small oil ports that Sludge up and starve the engine parts inside for oil... My friend also said there is a Plastic oil pump in a 5.4 that fails or starves the engine of oil... I wonder if 5W-30 is Why the Cam Phasers Fail because of Sludge and thicker oil ??
So that sludge builds up because of lack of oil changes. If you change it often with thicker oil you are probably better off. Thinner oil might not cut it, I don't know I'm not a mechanical engineer. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros I have 39 years Auto-Body and do All my own mechanics... I have three 2004 5.4 in my yard 2 broken motors or cam phasers problems 250,000km & 300,000km... The One truck running prefect at 380,000km has had 5w-20 from New and I wouldn't say changed always on time knowing Grampa & my Nephew the 2 owners... Mechanics online say this is a Very Poor designed Engine with Very Small Oil Ports that plug up easy... My friend said the Factory Oil Pump is a Plastic Gear... Not sure about the plastic gear But Mechanics online say 5.4 have Very Poor Oil pumps... So I think its a Combo of Oil related problems that starve the Motor of oil... I like GM then Dodge Toyota Nissan etc, Ford would be Last on my list.... If I were to Buy one I would really look into the Oil problems BEFORE any issues appeared and Fix them and run the Lite oil 5w-20 with a Oil additive like the New Seafoam...
Check out Fordtechmakuloco on RUclips. He is the internet guru on these 5.4 3v engines. He got Melling to make a hi-flo oil pump for this engine that solves the fail point with the cams.
@@eastbaygrease10 Thanks... I'm fixing the one XLT to resell and would like to sell a nice truck
If your getting a "thick Sludge" oil, it's mostly due to short trips. Condensation will start to build up from short trips causing a Sludge like oil. If you live more northern it's a common problem. Your better off doing oil changes every 3-5000 miles using 5W30.
cool dude........ plain good `ol americana .
Thank you for watching!
I have a5.4 2 valve and 2 5.4 3 valve fords i don't know why the ford manuals for the vehicles tell you to put 6 quarts in them when i can put 7 in them and have the oil level at or near the full line on the stick
7 is correct. Put in seven. Thanks for watching!
What year is your 5.3. 3 valve ?
Will this work on a 5.4 Triton?
This is a 5.4 Triton. So yes. Thanks for watching!
Thanks brother 👌
Thanks for watching Henry!
Thank you
Welcome!
Could I use 10w 30 I live in South Florida and it’s hot over here 2007 F150 5.4 v8
You could. I use 5w30 here in California. Thank you for watching!
@@2carpros what about 10 40???
@@Aaannngggeeeelllll57 you dont want to use 10-40. That's more for diesel engines. 10-30 is the highest you should go when it comes the gas engines
cordera zeno don’t go higher than 5w30 . Small fine passages to operate the VVT cam timing. Thicker is not better in modern engines.
@@johnoberle9750 that is true
How often do you guys change the oil once it hit 3k-5k ?
With this super fragile engine 5k with full synthetic to be safe. Usually it is 8k or so. But Ford really dropped the ball with the design of this engine so it needs super clean oil all the time. Thanks for watching!
can i mix 5w20 and 5w30?
If they are both synthetic, yeah. Thanks for watching!