Maybe an obvious tip, particularly for young players - do a few quick online insurance quotes before getting too into the idea of a specific model you want. Insurance costs for some might be a deal-breaker.
The best thing about ReDriven: The fact that they are onto business from within 10 seconds of the start of the video. And that carries through the entire video. No BS, no drama, no crazy animation. Amazing
Absolutely. That feeling is mutual. And this is why I love your channel. I rarely subscribe to a youtube channel. I came across one of your vidoes today. Then i watched a couple more and i was sold. Keep up the good work mate. Any chance you can review a mazda 3 sp23 2.3 litre 5 speed hatch? Will love that
Thanks so much for the help! I have a dad and a brother, but they both love across the country now- I'm on my own for buying the next vehicle and I'm nervous, but this helps me feel more confident! @@ReDriven
Another hot tip is to physically check under the bonnet after a test drive, again to look for signs of leaks and check the underside of the bonnet for signs of fluid spray like oil, coolant, battery acid etc and look under the car for any fluids dripping or weeping out from parts of the car. If you can, check under carpets and floor mats for water damage and rust.
I took a used car to a mechanic to check it over make sure it was good before buying. He said looks great. Come to find out he missed a lot of stuff. Transmission went, there were recalls, and more. I'm guessing he didn't tell me about these things because he thought he would get more money out of me fixing all the things he knew was going to break. I didn't go to him at all but the vehicle cost me thousands to fix
what a great video guys well done however, I think Stage 5 Should be the very first thing you do. As a mechanic in Melbourne the first thing I would recommend to anyone buying a used car whether it be from a dealership or a private sale. Is to get a pre-purchase inspection done by your local Auto Club (RACV in victoria Or NRMA in NSW etc) if the seller won't let you have an independent inspection then simply walk away there will always be another car somewhere else. This is before the test drive, do not test drive the car unless the seller agrees to an independent inspection. This is where 95% of people make mistakes if you test drive before inspecting then you will not be in the right state of mind if there are potential problems ahead. Never ever trust what the seller says to you, do your own checks. If you notice any leaks oil, water, etc, Do Not Buy that car, I can almost guarantee it will not end well. Also, my personal view is you must leave at leave 20% of the budget for repairs & maintenance. swapping insurance & rego etc is to be done within the remaining 80%. I have seen too many times people get caught buying something then it comes to my shop & needs $500 + spent on it. That means if you have $10,000 to spend realistically you have $7,500 for the car, $500 for insurance & rego, & the rest for servicing & repairs.
Mate thanks for your amazing and specific tips.! I’m looking forward to buy an old car but currently I know sh1t about cars as a rookie driver. What would you recommend me to do when that day comes? I totally agree with the inspection first part, however should I find a guy with solid car knowledge to test drive for me? Please lay some wisdom on me!
@@teddyxiong4192 if you can take a friend with you. If the car is for you, you’re the one who has to sit in it & make sure you can live with it. Make sure everything works & I mean everything. poke it with a stick & push every nob & button.
I'm at the beginning stage of looking to purchase my first car - so many things to learn, it's pretty overwhelming - your videos are really helpful, especially this one, thanks so much! I'm going to practice your inspecting tips from this video with my friend's car, so I feel more confident for when I actually have to do it
3 other tips that is worth mentioning. The first is from the same car salesman (he no longer is one) is taking a decent magnet and a soft thin cloth like a hanky. This is to see if bog or spray primer filler has been used to repair scratches, dents or patch jobs as a magnet will slide off or won't give any resistance to being removed the car hasn't had metal to metal repairs done. 2nd is from a panel beater who said if there is a black covering on the under side of the car. If there is don't touch even of its a new car as its either got severe rust or damage being concealed or they're trying to hide the fact its a rebirth. 3rd one is to take a A20c or A$2 coin (or the equivalent for your local currency)to use to help check the gaps as most cars with a few exceptions should have either one of them pass though the gaps seamlessly and if not then there's something screwy going on there. This tip was from a panel beater as well. These were ones that my old man just told me as he's the one these tips were told too as he wasn't sure if you guys or others knew about them and if not then hopefully it should help other people out.
Great tips! I did EVERYTHING completely wrong with my first car purchase. Pretty much the exact opposite to what you said. And ended up paying $$ to get it fixed. The person who sold me the car left the country the next day so I couldn’t get any recourse. I learnt my lesson the hard way.
Never buy a car from someone who's leaving the country. Always get a thorough mechanical inspection before purchase. Don't let the seller rush you into a decision. If they try that, walk away.
A good tip. If your buying a used car try and find the best examples even out of your price range and go and test drive them and check out the engine especially. Then when you go to find a mid priced model of the car your after you can compare against a perfect example.
When you go for a test drive, put the key in contact instead of starting the engine first and check if all the warning lights (check engine etc.) light up. If not, the owner is probably trying to hide potential issues.
I generally make sure to check the car out from a cold start. If the seller has already warmed the car up prior your arrival I'll consider that a red flag. If you have access to a OBD scanner bring that along to plus a tarp to get under the car to check for bushing/mounts etc.
If buying from a private seller make sure the vehicle has no finance owing or if there is that the debt will be cleared upon sale. Not sure what the rules are overseas but here In New Zealand any finance owing on a vehicle sticks with the vehicle until fully paid off,so if you buy without checking you could end up paying someone else's repayments. It's Not fair and the government needs to change the law around this but until they do it's essential to check and don't just rely on the honesty of the seller.
The video that nobody wanted, but everybody needed... I hope this video blows up... Question: What are your thoughts of buying a car interstate? Great content guys 👍
At the very least. Get someone to look at it. To make sure it exists. Plus, what may not be a problem for the seller. Could be a total red flag for the buyer. Photo's can make the car look so much better than it actually is. Plus most sellers are going to hide damage in photos.
I saw my dream motorbike online. Contacted the seller about it and asked about the service history and why he was selling. It was a super low kilometre bike (3500k's) and it seemed perfect from all the pictures. Then it all went pear shaped. The rego papers seemed photoshopped when I requested them and I did a finance check on it. There was finance on the bike and said as soon as I give him the money he will pay off the finance and hand the keys over. Everything seemed fishy at that point. Wouldn't meet at his house etc, didn't want to meet up in person at all , and only wanted to deal online. It was a scam from someone using a fake name with a bike that may not have been his at all. If it seems too good to be true, it probably is. I ended up waiting for another closer to home bike and spent more but got more out of it. Lot's of people rip off people for a living, don't waste your money, you probably worked hard to get it.
Costs heaps to transfer rego and the vehicle inspection is very comprehensive for rego transfers they will pull you up on everything. Better be a damn good deal if you're going to do it and in that case its likely not all it boils up to be
pre-purchase inspections are so needed, even on usually reliable cars. My uncle bought a used 2014 corolla hatch last yr, and didnt get it checked out. within 2 weeks, it needed a full clutch replacement and new brakes.
Here's my tuppence worth..take along a piece of cloth or cardboard or just some white paper and place it under the engine bay on the tarmac. Run the engine till it's at temperature and you will easily spot any oil, brake fluid or coolant leaks.
I like to stick to cars that have been owned for a while with service history. Check the spare wheel well also. Every car has a value whatever the problem, don't mean walk away , but do if it out values the asking price.
Brilliant video guys and one that I'm surprised others haven't done yet. One tip that a car salesman told my dad(as well as a panel beater like I said ages ago)is wear sunglasses when inspecting a car as it will cut out any glare and show up mismatching paint colours and textures. It's actually one that people have thanked my dad, mum and myself for telling them before buying as it gave them more bargaining power. With the wheels while I can understand what you've said in the video works for alloys with the scratching what sould people look for of they have hub caps? Was surprised to see Lola was the model for this video but she's logically probably the best car you have access too too show off what you were meaning. Also nice movie reference Hullsy and I couldn't help but notice Adam cracking up at it so bravo 👏 🤣. Also congrats on hitting over 76k subscribers guys you deserve them and I'm guessing you'll be at 80k by the end of the month 😉👍. Looking forward to Friday's video and I'm guessing that it's a Volvo getting reviewed 😆 🤣 .
Cheers Donners! That’s a great little tip you mentioned. That’s the idea with getting people to share, hopefully collectively our audience has purchases thousands of cars over the years, if we can harness a tenth of that it would be great.
@@ReDriven I'd say you've done that already lol. Also forgot to ask what you guys would say to look for with the infotainment systems/speakers on a car your looking at?
@@DLPTonyATL the Redriven team has done the lions share of the work mate I'm just adding the tip/trick that a lot of people don't know but should to help avoid getting ripped off.
So... my promised car buying story - back in the 90's (in NZ) I fell in lust with an e36 325i coupe. It was a japanese import; metallic bronze, sunroof, leather, etc etc. Drove like a train, and a small dealer was selling it. My Dad, thankfully talked me into getting an AA (NZs equivalent of RACQ/NRMA, etc) report as it was a big amount of cash for me at the time. So I dropped in confident I was wasting a hundy bucks. Went to pick it up and told the gyt I was here to pickup the bronze Beemer and he looked puzzled. He asked which colour and I said again, bronze... he replied they had a blue one, a black one, and a white one. I was more puzzled and he asked if I knew what a cut and shut was (where a vehicle gets cut in half somewhere and attached to the matching piece of another vehicle), which I replied to the positive. He then said the car I tool in was a cut and cut and shut and shut... and they'd never seen before three cars repurposed into one... I was gobsmacked. He said they done a bloody good job - the only simple tell-tale was they'd forgotten to reconnect the internal boot release. But as for buying it? He said anyone would have to have rocks in their head - luckily for me, I didn't... took it straight back to the dealer, threw the keys at them and ran away! The lesson? as the RD guys tell us, never assume - get the experts to look at the things you aren't expert in. Sure, you'll pay a little up front that you might flush down the dunny if it's no good... but that's a shit load better than owning it and losing thousands; either on getting it made "right" or on resale. Of course, I still luv me Beemers!
Don’t forget to check if it’s registered and has insurance, because if you test drive it without and your involved in an accident you could be paying a lot more than the car itself.
You can't test drive an unregistered car, yet so many sellers on the used cars market think people buying used cars are mugs who won't know that it's illegal to drive an unregistered vehicle, test drive or not. Same goes for CTP insurance. If it isn't still current, not a good idea to buy due to not being legally allowed to test drive.
When you call up the seller on a private sale - don't say which car you are interest in. If they have to ask you than you know they are selling multiple cars for "reasons". Goto dealers to do some "tire kicking" - best way to tell if you got a good car on your hands is when you have multiple examples to compare with.
best practice IMO is (if you can) get them to drive it to you, say at a Wal-Mart parking lot or something. That way you know it runs, the owner has no issue driving it themselves, there's lots of people around in case they try anything, etc.
Something really important, but not mentioned is ensure the seller registers the official transfer of the vehicle to you prior to parting with the cash. This way, they can't take your money and then report the car stolen after you drive away. I saw a story on A Current Affair about a young girl who had just bought a car and the car had been reported stolen (her father was an ex-cop) who should have ensure the official transfer of ownership was registered because she was picked up by the police, ordered out of the vehicle and held at gunpoint. Just a horrible thing to experience.
I put a deposit down on a used RAV4. Drove well and seemed to be in great condition...BUT! I purchased a PPSR and discovered it had been recently written off with heavy panel damage. Thank goodness the seller was at least honest enough to give the deposit back.
The panel gaps are usually the ones forgotten.2 months ago I pretty much looked out for ALL on this checklist and I was willing to not let the rear end declared accident bother me. Then 3 weeks into it as I let it sit in the garage and did all the wash,prep and sealant, I noticed there was a tiny strange panel gap from the bonnet's lip and the fron fender. I checked out top to bottom and behind the fender... nothing. I came to the conclusion that this was a defect manufacturing from factory because the paint all matched - down to the bolts of the bonnet. Other than that, mechanically runs good, service history checks out (no numerous visits for repair), had the dealership do the alignment FOR FREE before picking up the vehicle, and I did the oil change myself even when it wasn't due yet.Oh!If it helps anyone else reading this, the vehicle I am describing is a 2019 Mini Countryman S All4 w/only 56K kms
I think I need to watch this video at least five times to make sure it sinks in - I made all the errors on the current car (Estima), as I was buying in a state of anxiety due to needing a car (to possibly live in) quickly. Now, with my savings drained, I have a car that is going to the wreckers within 6 months of buying it. I put my trust in the dealer and ignored the red flags but ... the car ran beautifully. Even now, it runs beautifully but it's actually been burning oil in the engine and somehow this was missed despite having a LOT done within days of buying it. And more done. And more. (The one thing I did do right was budget for at least $2000 of repairs within the first month.) Fool's errors. Sigh. Very costly. (On the plus side, I did manage some great short trips in the Estima in question.) I'm not even going to test drive until a pre purchase inspection is done by the RAA (SA).
As usual awesome content, team ReDriven! Very solid tips here that are often neglected by people when buying used (myself included). Will be taking a gander at the details on the website and downloading the checklist! Keep up the amazing content!
Nice to see Lola the Celica again. My '95 Celica with 275k miles/ ~450k Km just blew up, after only God knows how many owners beating her up over the years. Gonna get a new engine in, and she'll be right as rain. V6 will make her so much faster too
Great video, This is Bongani in South Africa 🇿🇦 I bought a mazda3 3years ago, a disaster of a car ,most of the things you mentioned I missed, some of them I did do, I just replaced an engine on that car, I'm going to write down this check list save it, they will never get me again
For me, I look for a comprehensive (& consistent) maintenance history. That gives me a lot of peace of mind to know what repair work has been done already but more importantly, what future repair work I will need to budget for.
If someone says the pink slip has been done, ask them to show physical proof that it was done at a reputable business that checks everything. If they can’t provide the papers it’s a major red flag as they did a dodgy unseen pink slip and that shows there is something wrong with the car and that they can’t be bothered to fix it.
Was I the only one thinking donuts when Jim suggested taking the car to a car park and drive around in circles? 😀 Great content as always, especially taking the emotion out of it by going for a coffee. Perhaps a video on selling tips as a future video?
Few more things: Start and stop engine several times during test drive. If you hear loud rattle on shutdown, most likely its dual mass flywheel (1000usd). Also i've tested cars which had difficulty starting again after test drive (again could be 500 or more problem you dont want to solve). During test drive - listen to turbo, if it sounds like sirens, that's 1000 usd hauling. Look closely at each wheel, brakes, shock absorbers , springs. Discs may be worn, rusty (thats not safe and will cost about 500). Different shock absorbers on same axis is sign of cheap accident repair. Worn absorbers, cracked springs is again expensive and sign of neglect. Obd tool is very useful, you can check even injectors for vw diesels. Finally allways check exhaust tip, if it is very black, engine might consume a lot of oil and most likely wont pas mot. Allways ask when oil was changed first, if it was fairly recently and dip stick is at low thats again problem you do not want to solve.
Heard on abc radio law Q&A about sellers must disclose any issues with the car if the buyers asked. Buyers may take advantage of this recourse provided by the law for future issues with the car if sellers failed to disclose. Dyor. Also, whenever I buy a car privately, I always research the " profiles" of the sellers. Eg. Buy from sellers living In median to upmarket suburbs.
Great video guys. Really agree with the 5 step process. Step 1) search Toyota Step 2) weed out the ones that have been made love to Step 3) buy a Yaris. Step 4) if you can't find a Yaris jump to step 5 Step5) buy a K series powered Honda
Make sure, airbag / check engine lights come on with ignition and turn off after starting. Engine should be cold when you go to start it. If not, the owner might be masking cold start / warm up noises / problems. ps Always take a mate with you. 2 sets of eyes 👀 are better than 1.
Hunting for a used car now, thanks heaps for this. Bought a 2010 Liberty a year ago; ended up with a blown gasket despite regular service - don’t think it’s the previous owners fault, but still had to see and a huge discount. You are the best, team, cheers
Good thoughts guys. One interesting thought I had: I looked at 3 cars, a year to two apart. The first 2 cars, when I looked underneath the cars were a bit rusty and one of them had a broken piece of plastic underneath the car. Then the next day I looked at the 3 rd car underneath. What a difference. A lot less rust and no broken plastic parts. I bought the 3rd car after sleeping on it overnight.
Great guide to buy used vehicles. Thanks 🙏🏻 I always fall into the excitement part after the test drive and need someone with me to remember the coffee time 😅
Keep up the great work guys. You are providing a great service. I watch your videos regularly. The advice you offer in this video is really great. I note however, that you did not recommend looking underneath of the car prior to the pre-purchase inspection. Why?
I once bought a car that the seller move the stopper on the dip stick to show full oil when it was empty. When full of oil so much smoke, engine was stuffed..
Here to attest as well, do your research online about common and uncommon faults & repairs that can happen with the car. So you can look in the service history if available if it's done yes or no. Might be a good negotiation point as well for oncoming maintenance or get it done before you take the car home and do decide to buy the car. Furthermore all good tips here.
Adam, this is a wonderful video, as many have commented. Most know a bid about cars so this is a great checklist. Unfortunately some have no idea about cars, and even if you give a cheat sheet like this to follow, if you don’t know cars, it’s better to ask a relative, or friend who knows about cars who can come along so all the checks you recommended are ticked off. Even if it’s a smaller budget, it can be a lot of money to that individual to attempt to buy a car not knowing anything. Ask for help from someone who knows cars! Just a thought. Fred
Good point, and I reckon it's best to take a second person regardless if you can. Extra set of eyes (even untrained ones) will pick up stuff you missed while concentrating on other things
Good that you pronounced the word genre correctly but motor vehicles don’t fit into a genre. Examples of a genre are, in the context of say movies you can have a western or a comedy or horror movie.
we can do requests right? cause I would really like to see a review of the VF sv6 commodore with the amount of detail and effort you guys put into your reviews
LOL once I was shopping for a “new" used car, I've never had the chance to begin Stage 1. It was a used car dealership and I remember the sales person saying "this is a good car, drives good and everything is good, so cash or finance?"
Another tip for anyone looking to buy used car, don’t test drive the car when the engine is already hot, try to test it when the engine is completely cold as many issues especially with automatic gearbox doesn’t show up when the engine is in operating temperature. Good luck
Pro Tip: Get a wife/ voice of reason. When having the coffee, talk to someone. Because during that coffee, you’re more likely going to try convince yourself you’re doing the right thing even when you’re not.
I'd reiterate and expand the first step- spend the time to identify what category of vehicle to look at. What are your requirements- Must have, Should have, Could have, Won't have- number of seats, towing capability, storage, off road capability, economy, size practicality, costs, reliability, service costs, parts availability and cost, proximity to experienced servicing, theft resistance, appearance, tolerance to wear and tear, ... From that you'll be able to narrow down to those vehicles which fit your criteria. Consider the total cost of ownership as well. You might pay more for a Mazda or Toyota at purchase, but it is likely you'll have less ongoing costs, and if you look after it there'll be a ready and willing market happy to pay good money for it when it's time to pass it on, unlike the ones which are cheaper at the beginning, but are nightmares and embarrassing to own, and nobody wants them at the end. There is nothing worse than a vehicle that you can't rely on, is always needing money spent on it, and can't be used because it is in the shop waiting for parts. Then watch the ReDriven reviews on them so that you have a clear idea of the ones to focus on. Here in NZ we have The Dog and Lemon Guide which has written reviews on most vehicles in our markets going right back in to the 1990's and beyond covering the same topics and info sourced from mechanics, service bulletins, safety tests etc- NZD10 gets you three reviews, along with a heap of free pdfs covering transmission types, european vehicles, buying used car process, etc. Then, look across the market so that you know your prices. You'll need that to be able to rank the prospects, and when you're negotiating. These three important steps will save you, and sellers, a lot of time. Once you are looking at specific vehicles and wanting to check the background, in NZ we have CarJam, where we can look at the WoF history, money owing, number of owners, plate history, etc. I note they also do reports for Australia now. And lastly, once the deal is done, make sure they settle any money owing with their finance company and provide proof before you hand your money over, change the ownership over before you leave so that responsibility for tickets and reg changes to the new owner, have the toll road account changed to the new owner for that rego, and have the vehicle insured immediately, before you drive it away. Being disciplined and unemotional about the whole process will maximise the possibility of a good outcome. If this isn't you, find someone you trust who can be to go through it with you.
Another great video for buyers!! Something else I'd like to have tested/explained on explained on video is; If I do let say 85% highway driving speeds (in heavy and light traffic at times) does the smallest most economical car now lose some of that economy compared to something with a larger enging? And should I have been looking at other factors? (On a car under 6k)
Yes to a certain degree. You’d have to thrash an underpowered car to get brisk merging and overtaking that’s effortless in more powerful cars - you’d probably use the same amount of fuel but it’s a less enjoyable experience. I’d say look at one that’s still an efficient 4cyl but still somewhat powerful. Even a 1.6 Turbo should sufficient, and economical around town. Though under $6k at current used car prices you don’t really get much of a choice. Getting something reliable and cared for is already going to be a stretch. Oh and some cars are unusually cheap for a reason, like a Holden Cruze. Stay clear.
@@mattdowling955 oh lol, yea my friend was unlucky enough to have crossed paths with one. They can be tempting since a 2014 Cruze costs about the same as a 2007 Corolla, but definitely just get the Corolla in that case lol - if it was a good car clearly they won’t be priced to sell ASAP. Stick to Japanese cars for the best reliability even when old, even Hyundais and Kias from the early 2010s used sketchy drivetrains. Possibly a Mazda3, they do have punchy engines, but the older ones like the 2nd gen (2009-13) can be thirsty. I can’t for the life of me get my 2014 SP25 GT (3rd gen) under 8.8L/100km though I don’t necessarily drive economically. I wouldn’t mind if it was this punchy but was a hybrid to save on fuel costs. Unfortunately Corolla Hybrids only started coming out much later in 2016ish and are still really expensive on the used market. Though on a lower budget, for no frills transport I’d say maybe an early CJ Lancer. Noisy and a bit slow but super reliable.
If looking at buying a Holden Cruze, or even a Captiva, the rule of thumb is, don't pay over $100. They really are that bad. There is a good reason cars like Corollas hold their value and cars like the Cruze plummet in value. Remember, if it's over $100, it's not worth the headaches.
@@MrWilliam.Stewart hahha thankfully I heeded all the advise from redriven and actually scored a 2009 mazda 2 full histroy and under 90thousand kms for only $4000!! In perth here, the same car easily go for $7k so thanks to everything from these guys I not only saved myself from a dud car but scored an absolute bargain 👌
The last car I went to see I took an OBD2 scanner. The car had a fault code for an Oxygen sensor. I cleared it and then took it for a test drive, re checked it had reappeared I questioned the dealer about it and he got all flustered and tried to fob it off. I walked away.
Last second Vehicle l bought was my 1997 toyota hilux l had no service history nothing at all my test drive was from Newcastle to my home in Campbelltown it made it with no problems l paid $1500 for it and still have it l have serviced it replaced all four tyres doesn't burn oil l probably have spent $1500 fixing it up nothing major its shift gears good there us an aftermarket cruise control fitted doesn't work the shock absorbes have been replaced l don't know when l have started a service record of it and it has now 430000 kms on it l have found out how good it is through you tube top gear UK tried to kill one and they didn't although it was a diesel
Research the owner, stalk them if you must, that's how I ended up buying a car from someone who had been nationally banner from trading cars for selling dodgy pos, doing this stopped me from buying another car, as I found there tiktok lol, and she'd ran it without oil and had been rear ended recently "even though they weren't aware of any accidents"
Guys, would a Redbook inspection be enough to ensure a safe buy or should the vehicle be taken to a mechanic to be hoisted up? Which one? Both? Just want to avoid purchasing a nightmare.
Dont have the showoff mentality. Buying a particular car because its "cool". Have seen saw many buying used german cars just to cry later on about the repair bills. Most of them are now non runners and covered with the tarpeulin.
Why would someone rev the sellers car to the red line if it's anything other than a sports car? I never rev my own car to the red line so if someone did it, then that's an automatic out!
Sometimes certain fuel supply issues can only be detected when the engine is under load like with high revs. Plus the goal is to see (feel) if the power delivery is linear. Especially on a forced induction motor, any hesitation towards the higher end of the rev range is a cause for concern. - AK
Got any tips the ReDriven community should know about? Put them here!
there is so much to check for which is overwhelming for someone like me who doesn't know much about cars and is scared of getting ripped off
Maybe an obvious tip, particularly for young players - do a few quick online insurance quotes before getting too into the idea of a specific model you want. Insurance costs for some might be a deal-breaker.
Great tip!
True.
The best thing about ReDriven: The fact that they are onto business from within 10 seconds of the start of the video. And that carries through the entire video. No BS, no drama, no crazy animation. Amazing
Mate thank you so much. That comes from hours lost of us watching videos thinking, just get to the bloody point! - AK
Absolutely. That feeling is mutual. And this is why I love your channel. I rarely subscribe to a youtube channel. I came across one of your vidoes today. Then i watched a couple more and i was sold. Keep up the good work mate. Any chance you can review a mazda 3 sp23 2.3 litre 5 speed hatch? Will love that
Thanks so much for the help! I have a dad and a brother, but they both love across the country now- I'm on my own for buying the next vehicle and I'm nervous, but this helps me feel more confident! @@ReDriven
Another hot tip is to physically check under the bonnet after a test drive, again to look for signs of leaks and check the underside of the bonnet for signs of fluid spray like oil, coolant, battery acid etc and look under the car for any fluids dripping or weeping out from parts of the car.
If you can, check under carpets and floor mats for water damage and rust.
I took a used car to a mechanic to check it over make sure it was good before buying. He said looks great. Come to find out he missed a lot of stuff. Transmission went, there were recalls, and more. I'm guessing he didn't tell me about these things because he thought he would get more money out of me fixing all the things he knew was going to break. I didn't go to him at all but the vehicle cost me thousands to fix
Tyres are the best indication of how the owner respects the vehicle and their ability to maintain it to OEM standard.
what a great video guys well done however, I think Stage 5 Should be the very first thing you do. As a mechanic in Melbourne the first thing I would recommend to anyone buying a used car whether it be from a dealership or a private sale. Is to get a pre-purchase inspection done by your local Auto Club (RACV in victoria Or NRMA in NSW etc) if the seller won't let you have an independent inspection then simply walk away there will always be another car somewhere else. This is before the test drive, do not test drive the car unless the seller agrees to an independent inspection. This is where 95% of people make mistakes if you test drive before inspecting then you will not be in the right state of mind if there are potential problems ahead.
Never ever trust what the seller says to you, do your own checks. If you notice any leaks oil, water, etc, Do Not Buy that car, I can almost guarantee it will not end well.
Also, my personal view is you must leave at leave 20% of the budget for repairs & maintenance. swapping insurance & rego etc is to be done within the remaining 80%. I have seen too many times people get caught buying something then it comes to my shop & needs $500 + spent on it. That means if you have $10,000 to spend realistically you have $7,500 for the car, $500 for insurance & rego, & the rest for servicing & repairs.
Mate thanks for your amazing and specific tips.! I’m looking forward to buy an old car but currently I know sh1t about cars as a rookie driver. What would you recommend me to do when that day comes? I totally agree with the inspection first part, however should I find a guy with solid car knowledge to test drive for me? Please lay some wisdom on me!
@@teddyxiong4192 if you can take a friend with you. If the car is for you, you’re the one who has to sit in it & make sure you can live with it. Make sure everything works & I mean everything. poke it with a stick & push every nob & button.
I'm at the beginning stage of looking to purchase my first car - so many things to learn, it's pretty overwhelming - your videos are really helpful, especially this one, thanks so much!
I'm going to practice your inspecting tips from this video with my friend's car, so I feel more confident for when I actually have to do it
Fax just got my permit today 😂
Got mine a month ago
Now im tryna buy an suv but idk what mileage to look for
3 other tips that is worth mentioning. The first is from the same car salesman (he no longer is one) is taking a decent magnet and a soft thin cloth like a hanky. This is to see if bog or spray primer filler has been used to repair scratches, dents or patch jobs as a magnet will slide off or won't give any resistance to being removed the car hasn't had metal to metal repairs done.
2nd is from a panel beater who said if there is a black covering on the under side of the car. If there is don't touch even of its a new car as its either got severe rust or damage being concealed or they're trying to hide the fact its a rebirth.
3rd one is to take a A20c or A$2 coin (or the equivalent for your local currency)to use to help check the gaps as most cars with a few exceptions should have either one of them pass though the gaps seamlessly and if not then there's something screwy going on there. This tip was from a panel beater as well.
These were ones that my old man just told me as he's the one these tips were told too as he wasn't sure if you guys or others knew about them and if not then hopefully it should help other people out.
My dear departed dad told me about the magnet not sticking to filler.
Hey mate great tips. I quite did not understand the 2nd one though. what do you mean by black covering on THE OTHER SIDE?
@@yeasirarafat1860 meant to put under side lol only just realised the mistake after you mentioned it mate so I'll fix that now.
Um... Jim, mate Miata is always the answer.
Unless it's Toyota Corolla
Great tips! I did EVERYTHING completely wrong with my first car purchase. Pretty much the exact opposite to what you said. And ended up paying $$ to get it fixed. The person who sold me the car left the country the next day so I couldn’t get any recourse. I learnt my lesson the hard way.
Me too - got sucked in by the car I wanted, oxygen stopped going to brain.
Never buy a car from someone who's leaving the country. Always get a thorough mechanical inspection before purchase. Don't let the seller rush you into a decision. If they try that, walk away.
Once you have bought a car privately you really don’t have any recourse as you now own it with no warranty and no obligation from the seller!
A good tip. If your buying a used car try and find the best examples even out of your price range and go and test drive them and check out the engine especially. Then when you go to find a mid priced model of the car your after you can compare against a perfect example.
Great tip
Really good idea!
When you go for a test drive, put the key in contact instead of starting the engine first and check if all the warning lights (check engine etc.) light up. If not, the owner is probably trying to hide potential issues.
Good advice!
You should also take the oil cap off the motor and have a look inside to see of there any sludge inside
How you do that??
I generally make sure to check the car out from a cold start. If the seller has already warmed the car up prior your arrival I'll consider that a red flag. If you have access to a OBD scanner bring that along to plus a tarp to get under the car to check for bushing/mounts etc.
Yep, definitely get an OBD scanner or download it from the internet...
I request that I want the car cold when I come to inspect
If buying from a private seller make sure the vehicle has no finance owing or if there is that the debt will be cleared upon sale. Not sure what the rules are overseas but here In New Zealand any finance owing on a vehicle sticks with the vehicle until fully paid off,so if you buy without checking you could end up paying someone else's repayments. It's Not fair and the government needs to change the law around this but until they do it's essential to check and don't just rely on the honesty of the seller.
The video that nobody wanted, but everybody needed... I hope this video blows up...
Question: What are your thoughts of buying a car interstate?
Great content guys 👍
At the very least. Get someone to look at it. To make sure it exists. Plus, what may not be a problem for the seller. Could be a total red flag for the buyer. Photo's can make the car look so much better than it actually is. Plus most sellers are going to hide damage in photos.
I saw my dream motorbike online. Contacted the seller about it and asked about the service history and why he was selling. It was a super low kilometre bike (3500k's) and it seemed perfect from all the pictures. Then it all went pear shaped. The rego papers seemed photoshopped when I requested them and I did a finance check on it. There was finance on the bike and said as soon as I give him the money he will pay off the finance and hand the keys over. Everything seemed fishy at that point. Wouldn't meet at his house etc, didn't want to meet up in person at all , and only wanted to deal online. It was a scam from someone using a fake name with a bike that may not have been his at all. If it seems too good to be true, it probably is. I ended up waiting for another closer to home bike and spent more but got more out of it. Lot's of people rip off people for a living, don't waste your money, you probably worked hard to get it.
@@YoureNowOnTV Good thing that you knew what to look for because a lot of people get scammed that way...
Costs heaps to transfer rego and the vehicle inspection is very comprehensive for rego transfers they will pull you up on everything. Better be a damn good deal if you're going to do it and in that case its likely not all it boils up to be
pre-purchase inspections are so needed, even on usually reliable cars. My uncle bought a used 2014 corolla hatch last yr, and didnt get it checked out. within 2 weeks, it needed a full clutch replacement and new brakes.
Here's my tuppence worth..take along a piece of cloth or cardboard or just some white paper and place it under the engine bay on the tarmac. Run the engine till it's at temperature and you will easily spot any oil, brake fluid or coolant leaks.
I like to stick to cars that have been owned for a while with service history.
Check the spare wheel well also.
Every car has a value whatever the problem, don't mean walk away , but do if it out values the asking price.
Brilliant video guys and one that I'm surprised others haven't done yet.
One tip that a car salesman told my dad(as well as a panel beater like I said ages ago)is wear sunglasses when inspecting a car as it will cut out any glare and show up mismatching paint colours and textures. It's actually one that people have thanked my dad, mum and myself for telling them before buying as it gave them more bargaining power.
With the wheels while I can understand what you've said in the video works for alloys with the scratching what sould people look for of they have hub caps?
Was surprised to see Lola was the model for this video but she's logically probably the best car you have access too too show off what you were meaning.
Also nice movie reference Hullsy and I couldn't help but notice Adam cracking up at it so bravo 👏 🤣.
Also congrats on hitting over 76k subscribers guys you deserve them and I'm guessing you'll be at 80k by the end of the month 😉👍. Looking forward to Friday's video and I'm guessing that it's a Volvo getting reviewed 😆 🤣 .
Cheers Donners! That’s a great little tip you mentioned.
That’s the idea with getting people to share, hopefully collectively our audience has purchases thousands of cars over the years, if we can harness a tenth of that it would be great.
@@ReDriven I'd say you've done that already lol.
Also forgot to ask what you guys would say to look for with the infotainment systems/speakers on a car your looking at?
What an awesome idea! A fraternity brother of mine posted about a used car yesterday, I just posted this nugget on his page. Thank you!
@@DLPTonyATL the Redriven team has done the lions share of the work mate I'm just adding the tip/trick that a lot of people don't know but should to help avoid getting ripped off.
@@TwistedDonners Trust me, the video was shared! I had never heard of the sunglasses tip, very cool. 🤘🏽👍🏽
So... my promised car buying story - back in the 90's (in NZ) I fell in lust with an e36 325i coupe. It was a japanese import; metallic bronze, sunroof, leather, etc etc. Drove like a train, and a small dealer was selling it. My Dad, thankfully talked me into getting an AA (NZs equivalent of RACQ/NRMA, etc) report as it was a big amount of cash for me at the time. So I dropped in confident I was wasting a hundy bucks. Went to pick it up and told the gyt I was here to pickup the bronze Beemer and he looked puzzled. He asked which colour and I said again, bronze... he replied they had a blue one, a black one, and a white one. I was more puzzled and he asked if I knew what a cut and shut was (where a vehicle gets cut in half somewhere and attached to the matching piece of another vehicle), which I replied to the positive. He then said the car I tool in was a cut and cut and shut and shut... and they'd never seen before three cars repurposed into one... I was gobsmacked. He said they done a bloody good job - the only simple tell-tale was they'd forgotten to reconnect the internal boot release. But as for buying it? He said anyone would have to have rocks in their head - luckily for me, I didn't... took it straight back to the dealer, threw the keys at them and ran away!
The lesson? as the RD guys tell us, never assume - get the experts to look at the things you aren't expert in. Sure, you'll pay a little up front that you might flush down the dunny if it's no good... but that's a shit load better than owning it and losing thousands; either on getting it made "right" or on resale.
Of course, I still luv me Beemers!
I hope you bought your Dad a beer? 😀🙏
Don’t forget to check if it’s registered and has insurance, because if you test drive it without and your involved in an accident you could be paying a lot more than the car itself.
Great point. That’s one of those things that I’m sure people would overlook (even us)
@@ReDriven great vids. Keep up the excellent work.
You can't test drive an unregistered car, yet so many sellers on the used cars market think people buying used cars are mugs who won't know that it's illegal to drive an unregistered vehicle, test drive or not. Same goes for CTP insurance. If it isn't still current, not a good idea to buy due to not being legally allowed to test drive.
When you call up the seller on a private sale - don't say which car you are interest in. If they have to ask you than you know they are selling multiple cars for "reasons".
Goto dealers to do some "tire kicking" - best way to tell if you got a good car on your hands is when you have multiple examples to compare with.
best practice IMO is (if you can) get them to drive it to you, say at a Wal-Mart parking lot or something. That way you know it runs, the owner has no issue driving it themselves, there's lots of people around in case they try anything, etc.
But that might prevent you from checking the engine at a cold start, a warmed-up engine can hide some problems
Something really important, but not mentioned is ensure the seller registers the official transfer of the vehicle to you prior to parting with the cash. This way, they can't take your money and then report the car stolen after you drive away.
I saw a story on A Current Affair about a young girl who had just bought a car and the car had been reported stolen (her father was an ex-cop) who should have ensure the official transfer of ownership was registered because she was picked up by the police, ordered out of the vehicle and held at gunpoint. Just a horrible thing to experience.
I don't understand, the girl would have registered it to her name.
Or do you mean just signing the back of the rego paper bit when buying / selling?
I put a deposit down on a used RAV4. Drove well and seemed to be in great condition...BUT! I purchased a PPSR and discovered it had been recently written off with heavy panel damage. Thank goodness the seller was at least honest enough to give the deposit back.
The panel gaps are usually the ones forgotten.2 months ago I pretty much looked out for ALL on this checklist and I was willing to not let the rear end declared accident bother me. Then 3 weeks into it as I let it sit in the garage and did all the wash,prep and sealant, I noticed there was a tiny strange panel gap from the bonnet's lip and the fron fender. I checked out top to bottom and behind the fender... nothing. I came to the conclusion that this was a defect manufacturing from factory because the paint all matched - down to the bolts of the bonnet. Other than that, mechanically runs good, service history checks out (no numerous visits for repair), had the dealership do the alignment FOR FREE before picking up the vehicle, and I did the oil change myself even when it wasn't due yet.Oh!If it helps anyone else reading this, the vehicle I am describing is a 2019 Mini Countryman S All4 w/only 56K kms
I think I need to watch this video at least five times to make sure it sinks in - I made all the errors on the current car (Estima), as I was buying in a state of anxiety due to needing a car (to possibly live in) quickly. Now, with my savings drained, I have a car that is going to the wreckers within 6 months of buying it. I put my trust in the dealer and ignored the red flags but ... the car ran beautifully. Even now, it runs beautifully but it's actually been burning oil in the engine and somehow this was missed despite having a LOT done within days of buying it. And more done. And more. (The one thing I did do right was budget for at least $2000 of repairs within the first month.) Fool's errors. Sigh. Very costly. (On the plus side, I did manage some great short trips in the Estima in question.) I'm not even going to test drive until a pre purchase inspection is done by the RAA (SA).
As usual awesome content, team ReDriven!
Very solid tips here that are often neglected by people when buying used (myself included).
Will be taking a gander at the details on the website and downloading the checklist!
Keep up the amazing content!
Thanks so much, Degan! We appreciate the kind words!
Nice to see Lola the Celica again. My '95 Celica with 275k miles/ ~450k Km just blew up, after only God knows how many owners beating her up over the years. Gonna get a new engine in, and she'll be right as rain. V6 will make her so much faster too
Great video, This is Bongani in South Africa 🇿🇦 I bought a mazda3 3years ago, a disaster of a car ,most of the things you mentioned I missed, some of them I did do, I just replaced an engine on that car, I'm going to write down this check list save it, they will never get me again
Don’t forget to check if it’s affected by the Takata airbag recall and whether it’s had the necessary work done.
Essential
For me, I look for a comprehensive (& consistent) maintenance history. That gives me a lot of peace of mind to know what repair work has been done already but more importantly, what future repair work I will need to budget for.
If someone says the pink slip has been done, ask them to show physical proof that it was done at a reputable business that checks everything. If they can’t provide the papers it’s a major red flag as they did a dodgy unseen pink slip and that shows there is something wrong with the car and that they can’t be bothered to fix it.
Was I the only one thinking donuts when Jim suggested taking the car to a car park and drive around in circles? 😀 Great content as always, especially taking the emotion out of it by going for a coffee. Perhaps a video on selling tips as a future video?
Thanks so much David!
Few more things:
Start and stop engine several times during test drive. If you hear loud rattle on shutdown, most likely its dual mass flywheel (1000usd).
Also i've tested cars which had difficulty starting again after test drive (again could be 500 or more problem you dont want to solve).
During test drive - listen to turbo, if it sounds like sirens, that's 1000 usd hauling.
Look closely at each wheel, brakes, shock absorbers , springs. Discs may be worn, rusty (thats not safe and will cost about 500). Different shock absorbers on same axis is sign of cheap accident repair. Worn absorbers, cracked springs is again expensive and sign of neglect.
Obd tool is very useful, you can check even injectors for vw diesels.
Finally allways check exhaust tip, if it is very black, engine might consume a lot of oil and most likely wont pas mot. Allways ask when oil was changed first, if it was fairly recently and dip stick is at low thats again problem you do not want to solve.
What an awesome video! The ReDriven team have cornered the market on used cars, I think you need to take the channel international. Come to America!
Cheers Tony! Really appreciate the kind words
You are doing a good job, guys. I love your tips like a small hill.
Heard on abc radio law Q&A about sellers must disclose any issues with the car if the buyers asked. Buyers may take advantage of this recourse provided by the law for future issues with the car if sellers failed to disclose. Dyor. Also, whenever I buy a car privately, I always research the " profiles" of the sellers. Eg. Buy from sellers living In median to upmarket suburbs.
...and don't buy from sellers who don't have an actual name and are listed simply as 'seller'. Big red flag!
Clever! I'm assuming you'll drop the schpiel from every video now and just refer to this one.
Great video guys.
Really agree with the 5 step process.
Step 1) search Toyota
Step 2) weed out the ones that have been made love to
Step 3) buy a Yaris.
Step 4) if you can't find a Yaris jump to step 5
Step5) buy a K series powered Honda
I was lucky bought the first i saw, a mint 380, 10 years on, nothing has broken.
Make sure, airbag / check engine lights come on with ignition and turn off after starting. Engine should be cold when you go to start it. If not, the owner might be masking cold start / warm up noises / problems.
ps
Always take a mate with you.
2 sets of eyes 👀 are better than 1.
And nose! My partner smelled the car was a smokers car whilst i was more looking for more visual imperfections
Nice tips, very useful.
Nice choice of demo car too, I'm going to look for one to buy.
Love what you’re doing guys, you just need to add this vid to your buyers guide playlist.
Hunting for a used car now, thanks heaps for this. Bought a 2010 Liberty a year ago; ended up with a blown gasket despite regular service - don’t think it’s the previous owners fault, but still had to see and a huge discount. You are the best, team, cheers
That's Subies for you. Those head gaskets ...
Legends! This is great advice that more people need to know
Such a great video. I’m sure it will be shared amongst friends and family for years to come.
Cheers Richard! That’s the idea!
Good thoughts guys. One interesting thought I had: I looked at 3 cars, a year to two apart. The first 2 cars, when I looked underneath the cars were a bit rusty and one of them had a broken piece of plastic underneath the car. Then the next day I looked at the 3 rd car underneath. What a difference. A lot less rust and no broken plastic parts. I bought the 3rd car after sleeping on it overnight.
First on here! Right as i’m about to scroll through FB marketplace aimlessly
Great guide to buy used vehicles. Thanks 🙏🏻
I always fall into the excitement part after the test drive and need someone with me to remember the coffee time 😅
Glad it was helpful!
Great stuff. Among all the companies offering pre purchase inspections, which one do you guys recommend?
Bought a nice little Fiesta ST once, great car and great seller. Thanks Adam!
Great video lads, a lot same advice I give. My only suggestion would be check the service log first! If its dodgy do you want to waste anymore time?!
I like to drive the dodgy ones too so you know what they feel like on the road!
I would also suggest buying an OBD2 scanner and scanning for any faults.
Keep up the great work guys. You are providing a great service. I watch your videos regularly. The advice you offer in this video is really great. I note however, that you did not recommend looking underneath of the car prior to the pre-purchase inspection. Why?
I once bought a car that the seller move the stopper on the dip stick to show full oil when it was empty. When full of oil so much smoke, engine was stuffed..
Again more sensible advice really enjoy your shows, thanks so much guys, Kudos to you 👏
You guys are legends. love watching ur vids
Fantastic!!! Thank you from South Africa
Very helpful. Thanks team.
Here to attest as well, do your research online about common and uncommon faults & repairs that can happen with the car. So you can look in the service history if available if it's done yes or no. Might be a good negotiation point as well for oncoming maintenance or get it done before you take the car home and do decide to buy the car.
Furthermore all good tips here.
Such a good video. Thanks a lot!
So helpful thank you!!
I advertised a car with average paint and buyer still decided to inspect it at night… did end up buying it
Adam, this is a wonderful video, as many have commented. Most know a bid about cars so this is a great checklist. Unfortunately some have no idea about cars, and even if you give a cheat sheet like this to follow, if you don’t know cars, it’s better to ask a relative, or friend who knows about cars who can come along so all the checks you recommended are ticked off. Even if it’s a smaller budget, it can be a lot of money to that individual to attempt to buy a car not knowing anything. Ask for help from someone who knows cars! Just a thought. Fred
Good point, and I reckon it's best to take a second person regardless if you can. Extra set of eyes (even untrained ones) will pick up stuff you missed while concentrating on other things
Guys you are the BEST!
Good that you pronounced the word genre correctly but motor vehicles don’t fit into a genre. Examples of a genre are, in the context of say movies you can have a western or a comedy or horror movie.
Such an informative video. Really wise tips and practical advice. Will be sharing for sure!
we can do requests right? cause I would really like to see a review of the VF sv6 commodore with the amount of detail and effort you guys put into your reviews
Always open to requests!
LOL once I was shopping for a “new" used car, I've never had the chance to begin Stage 1. It was a used car dealership and I remember the sales person saying "this is a good car, drives good and everything is good, so cash or finance?"
Thanks guys another great show great information all way’s handy Tony 😊👍
Thanks so much Tony!
Perfectly said. Thanks guys!! Helped me a lot!
You guys are my saviours right now.... But I suspect I may keep watching after I buy my next car because this channel is entertaining as fuck too
Thanks mate!
Another tip for anyone looking to buy used car, don’t test drive the car when the engine is already hot, try to test it when the engine is completely cold as many issues especially with automatic gearbox doesn’t show up when the engine is in operating temperature.
Good luck
Pro Tip: Get a wife/ voice of reason.
When having the coffee, talk to someone. Because during that coffee, you’re more likely going to try convince yourself you’re doing the right thing even when you’re not.
Great vid 👍
Where can I find the checklist?
Coming to ReDriven.com mate. We’re in the middle of a huge website refresh so much is changing. - AK
Amazing video - easy to put to practice. Thanks, guys!
I'd reiterate and expand the first step- spend the time to identify what category of vehicle to look at. What are your requirements- Must have, Should have, Could have, Won't have- number of seats, towing capability, storage, off road capability, economy, size practicality, costs, reliability, service costs, parts availability and cost, proximity to experienced servicing, theft resistance, appearance, tolerance to wear and tear, ... From that you'll be able to narrow down to those vehicles which fit your criteria.
Consider the total cost of ownership as well. You might pay more for a Mazda or Toyota at purchase, but it is likely you'll have less ongoing costs, and if you look after it there'll be a ready and willing market happy to pay good money for it when it's time to pass it on, unlike the ones which are cheaper at the beginning, but are nightmares and embarrassing to own, and nobody wants them at the end. There is nothing worse than a vehicle that you can't rely on, is always needing money spent on it, and can't be used because it is in the shop waiting for parts.
Then watch the ReDriven reviews on them so that you have a clear idea of the ones to focus on. Here in NZ we have The Dog and Lemon Guide which has written reviews on most vehicles in our markets going right back in to the 1990's and beyond covering the same topics and info sourced from mechanics, service bulletins, safety tests etc- NZD10 gets you three reviews, along with a heap of free pdfs covering transmission types, european vehicles, buying used car process, etc.
Then, look across the market so that you know your prices. You'll need that to be able to rank the prospects, and when you're negotiating.
These three important steps will save you, and sellers, a lot of time.
Once you are looking at specific vehicles and wanting to check the background, in NZ we have CarJam, where we can look at the WoF history, money owing, number of owners, plate history, etc. I note they also do reports for Australia now.
And lastly, once the deal is done, make sure they settle any money owing with their finance company and provide proof before you hand your money over, change the ownership over before you leave so that responsibility for tickets and reg changes to the new owner, have the toll road account changed to the new owner for that rego, and have the vehicle insured immediately, before you drive it away.
Being disciplined and unemotional about the whole process will maximise the possibility of a good outcome. If this isn't you, find someone you trust who can be to go through it with you.
Another great video for buyers!! Something else I'd like to have tested/explained on explained on video is;
If I do let say 85% highway driving speeds (in heavy and light traffic at times) does the smallest most economical car now lose some of that economy compared to something with a larger enging? And should I have been looking at other factors? (On a car under 6k)
Yes to a certain degree. You’d have to thrash an underpowered car to get brisk merging and overtaking that’s effortless in more powerful cars - you’d probably use the same amount of fuel but it’s a less enjoyable experience. I’d say look at one that’s still an efficient 4cyl but still somewhat powerful. Even a 1.6 Turbo should sufficient, and economical around town.
Though under $6k at current used car prices you don’t really get much of a choice. Getting something reliable and cared for is already going to be a stretch.
Oh and some cars are unusually cheap for a reason, like a Holden Cruze. Stay clear.
@@User-cb4jm funny you mention the Cruz. I almost went down that path a few months ago until coming across redriven .. life savers haha
@@mattdowling955 oh lol, yea my friend was unlucky enough to have crossed paths with one. They can be tempting since a 2014 Cruze costs about the same as a 2007 Corolla, but definitely just get the Corolla in that case lol - if it was a good car clearly they won’t be priced to sell ASAP.
Stick to Japanese cars for the best reliability even when old, even Hyundais and Kias from the early 2010s used sketchy drivetrains. Possibly a Mazda3, they do have punchy engines, but the older ones like the 2nd gen (2009-13) can be thirsty. I can’t for the life of me get my 2014 SP25 GT (3rd gen) under 8.8L/100km though I don’t necessarily drive economically. I wouldn’t mind if it was this punchy but was a hybrid to save on fuel costs.
Unfortunately Corolla Hybrids only started coming out much later in 2016ish and are still really expensive on the used market.
Though on a lower budget, for no frills transport I’d say maybe an early CJ Lancer. Noisy and a bit slow but super reliable.
If looking at buying a Holden Cruze, or even a Captiva, the rule of thumb is, don't pay over $100. They really are that bad. There is a good reason cars like Corollas hold their value and cars like the Cruze plummet in value. Remember, if it's over $100, it's not worth the headaches.
@@MrWilliam.Stewart hahha thankfully I heeded all the advise from redriven and actually scored a 2009 mazda 2 full histroy and under 90thousand kms for only $4000!! In perth here, the same car easily go for $7k so thanks to everything from these guys I not only saved myself from a dud car but scored an absolute bargain 👌
Can we have an in-depth guide for buying vehicles interstate? I live in SA and most of the time I can't find the vehicle I want from the same state.
this is so cool ! very relevant thank you.
Thanks mate!
Very informative video, mates!👍🏼👏🏼
You’re welcome!
Thank you! ❤
You guys are amazing! Love it 😊👍
Thanks mate!
The last car I went to see I took an OBD2 scanner. The car had a fault code for an Oxygen sensor. I cleared it and then took it for a test drive, re checked it had reappeared I questioned the dealer about it and he got all flustered and tried to fob it off. I walked away.
That is a cheap fix. You could have just used it as a bargaining chip on price.
Last second Vehicle l bought was my 1997 toyota hilux l had no service history nothing at all my test drive was from Newcastle to my home in Campbelltown it made it with no problems l paid $1500 for it and still have it l have serviced it replaced all four tyres doesn't burn oil l probably have spent $1500 fixing it up nothing major its shift gears good there us an aftermarket cruise control fitted doesn't work the shock absorbes have been replaced l don't know when l have started a service record of it and it has now 430000 kms on it l have found out how good it is through you tube top gear UK tried to kill one and they didn't although it was a diesel
Research the owner, stalk them if you must, that's how I ended up buying a car from someone who had been nationally banner from trading cars for selling dodgy pos, doing this stopped me from buying another car, as I found there tiktok lol, and she'd ran it without oil and had been rear ended recently "even though they weren't aware of any accidents"
Great job guys 👍
Great video! But the link to cheatsheet seems to be a little bit wierd.
Updated!
Great work!
With my last swap for a SS Commodore I ended up trippling my money. Bad tyres lol
Thanks for sharing great practical tips.
Guys, would a Redbook inspection be enough to ensure a safe buy or should the vehicle be taken to a mechanic to be hoisted up? Which one? Both? Just want to avoid purchasing a nightmare.
did you end up doing a redbook inspection? im buying my first car and am sure i will not be able to check properly :(
How do you check if the vehicle has any finance against it?
The road authority in each state has a website where you can check online for any encumbrances (ie finance owing). You'll need the vehicle's VIN.
This should be compulsory viewing for every 18 year old.
Wouldn't have done me any good as an 18y.o. I didn't have a licence for another few decades or the money to buy. #crappylife
Dont have the showoff mentality. Buying a particular car because its "cool". Have seen saw many buying used german cars just to cry later on about the repair bills. Most of them are now non runners and covered with the tarpeulin.
Why would someone rev the sellers car to the red line if it's anything other than a sports car? I never rev my own car to the red line so if someone did it, then that's an automatic out!
Sometimes certain fuel supply issues can only be detected when the engine is under load like with high revs. Plus the goal is to see (feel) if the power delivery is linear. Especially on a forced induction motor, any hesitation towards the higher end of the rev range is a cause for concern. - AK
Does the pre purchase inspection also apply to cars at dealerships?
Even more so imo! They know the tricks of the trade to hide things better