very good film you made here. Nice and clear. Thank you Im starting my 99 R1 in the morning Im more confedant now that I watched your film. Your the first ever that I left a public comment , that should tell you something!!! True story. Thamks again Bill 99 R1
I havent had an r1 in here for a while unfortunately. I typically come across more r6. Currently working on personal projects at the moment. Stay tuned for some k2 gsxr banshee videos. Thank you.
@@n8n8n8n yes kinda the same. Different specs, similar procedures. I have a custom Yamaha banshee with gsxr600 engine that I built. Will be doing videos on engine installation, valve adjustment, throttle body tuning, custom electrical harness, custom light installation with switches. I think that's bout it. And a test drive video. This thing is crazy.
@@cliffgibson9419 you’re gonna have a terrible time if you are trying to use this video as a guide, 09+ is cross plane engine. Your 03 is much simpler to get the timing
@@PHuongman416 I've done small engine dozens of times rebuild/carbs/ELC so on and I did my my 02 R6 valves..pretty mechanically inclined cars/bikes whatever ..but I've heard the 5 valve engine's are temperamental and seen for My in this video..I HATE shops always done all my own work..but $1000 for a shop or do it myself 🤷🏻♂️ I'm still contemplating lol
You went to MMI didn't you? You're very meticulous and the way you kept everything in order. Excellent Job! just should've started it and run it after all that. I know it ran, 😆 🤣
Great video. The part that scares me is getting the cam chain and the cams timed correctly. I have one question: is it OK to back of a little while cranking the engine by hand if I missed the correct spot while trying to get the proper alignment? Thanks!
@michor10 cam timing is scary......its even scarier when your off by a tooth, and you put it all together and crank it over by hand and the engine locks up......be sure to always verify your work by cranking the engine over by hand and not by using the starter motor or you could cause major damage. to answer your question, you DO NOT want to turn the engine back against its normal direction of operation, which would be clock wise from the CKP/ rotor bolt. Going back if you miss the timing mark would create excessive backlash in the cam chain and create incorrect valve timing and incorrect valve clearance. Doing that could make every clearance off by just enough to have excessive valve lift or incorrect clearances.
Thanks for answering. I have planned on doing a valve inspection this winter on my 2006 Fireblade which is close to 17000 miles.. I have the Haynes manual and all the tools plus a full shim set. My buddy who is a mechanic showed me years ago how to do it on my old Kawasaki Tomcat so I'm really confident that I can do it. Only the cam timing scares me a little. One last question: what can you do to release the engine if it locks up while cranking it by hand? Thanks! EDIT: I guess the proper way to unlock it would be removing the cams to re-time it, no?
@michor10 I once a long long time ago, when I was doing my first valve job (cylinder head off, new valves, machine work) on a 2006 Suzuki GSX-R600, I incorrectly set the cam timing off by so many degrees. I am not sure how many degrees (or cam teeth) I was off, but when I went to check my work, I could only crank the engine over less than 180 degrees before it completely locked up. When you rotate the engine by hand, and the timing is off, the valve will lightly strike the piston. As long as you realize this, and do not force it, no damage will result (unless crankshaft timing and valve timing are 180 degree off, you could cause damage to the valves and/ or pistons during camshaft installation) . You must then rotate the engine in the opposite direction to the original positions, and take it all apart and adjust the camshaft position on the chain. Check as many times as you can before you torque everything down.
Thanks for the video, really informative. But a got a little question: wouldnt it be much more easy to use the metric system on such small numbers? all the zeros would drive me crazy :D
thank you. I am a machinist, so i have worked with the standard system since day one. I just find it easier. I also find measuring in thousandths, more precise than measuring in millimeters; increments on the standard scale are in .001" where as metric increments are in 0.05mm increments. .... 0.001" = 0.0254mm.....standard scale is slightly more precise. metric kinda rounds it off, which is fine, because all the factory service manuals recommend it. My procedures are more precise. That is the difference.
Thanks for the reply! I gess at the end of the day it just depends on what you are used to. Coming from Germany the US system with inch just sometimes seems a bit weird and overcomplicated sometimes (especially when you want to transfer different measurments eg. feet - yards - miles, that kinda stuff). In the case of the valve adjustments i understand your point though! Well, i have a '99 R1 and got to tackle the valves in a couple days... wish me luck :D
No probably man, I enjoy talking with the intelligent side of the motorcycle community. I would rather exchange information, than get those random internet bully's who just talk shit all day on my videos. I appreciate the feed back. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions on your R1 or contact my shop phone. (909) 657 - 9154. not sure how overseas calling works! lol Good luck!
Great video! Couldn’t have done my valve adjustment without you! I tried doing the compression test and my engine won’t do anything. I have a 2011 R1. Any thoughts on why it won’t do anything?
If the ignition turns on with the key, but you hit the starter button and nothing. Troubleshoot the starting circuit. After that is corrected, then you can continue troubleshooting additional circuits or mechanical peoblems.
@@QuantumMotorWorks so i have the bike back together and it won't start. the engine turns over and it sounds like its trying to start but i don't get any further than that. during the valve adjustment i did lose a piece of a broken socket and in trying to find it i was told to try and flush it out with some oil. well i found the piece however in flushing it out i accidentally poured a small amount of oil into the spark plug hole. on start up there was some smoke but nothing too crazy. now it just doesn't want to light up and start! i have the bike on a trickle charger to keep the battery full so after a few runs of trying to start it, i leave it charge for a bit. do you think connecting it to a car battery would help the starter function better?
Hi, I have a problem on my Yamaha R6. After removing and reinstalling the camshafts, the suction valve clearance is slightly increased. I can not understand why, even if it is still in tolerance. I followed the step-by-step help manual.
Giuseppe Trovato In some situations were excessive valve and seat wear has occured, and the valve adjustment service interval is past due, the first valve clearance inspection may not yield sufficient results. This is typically caused by cam chain stretch and/ or camshaft sprocket teeth wear. The only other possibilities would be incorrect valve clearance measurements that were initially taken, incorrect math when selecting the proper valve shim, or you need to spin the engine over a few more times to set the valve and seats. Maybe you checked the valve clearances in the wrong order? did you check each cylinders valve clearance in the correct firing order on the compression stroke (camshafts lobe pointing away from each other)?
I did the measurement three times before removing the camshafts and three times after I reinstalled them. I did the measurement by rotating the crankshaft clockwise (burst sequence 1-2-4-3), the lobes of camshafts were in opposite directions. The bike has 40,000 km and is the first time it undergoes this job. But is this a tightening problem? I installed the camshaft mount bolts with intersection in successive passes. First, taking all at 5 nm, then I locked it to 10 nm. The key I knit is new and of good quality. The bolts were lubricated with engine oil. Sorry for my English, but I'm Italian and I help with the translator.
Giuseppe Trovato is your valve timing off? did you use the special procedure i used to spin the engine over for the first time after installing the cam chain tensioner? i slowly rotate the engine and cut the zip ties off that secure the chain to the camshaft sprockets. if you dont zip tie them down when doing the first engine rotation, the chain always slips on the cam sprocket and throws the timing off, which would give you a bad clearance?. I am not sure how you could have double checked the clearances 3 times after putting it back together and they would still be incorrect? that doesnt make sense to me, or maybe i am lost in translation?
I did the measurement three times to clear any reading errors with the thickness gauge. Sometimes the blades overlap. The engine phase is perfect, I signaled before removing the camshafts, when I reinstalled everything I tied the chain to the gears with plastic clamps. Do the camshaft mount bolts be lubricated even under the head or just in the thread ?
Giuseppe Trovato if the feeler gauge blades over lapped when you made your check, it would give you an incorrect reading and probably be very loose. I can't recall if oil only gets placed on the threads or under the head. it depends on the manufacturer. if the book doesnt call for it, its probably not critical in most cases. even if you were to not put the oil, that would only effect the torque value on your torque wrench, not the actual valve clearance.
Hi there, problems that i have with my 04 R1 is that she wont start normal (longer cranking) when hot or cooled down a little, she starts ok when applying little throttle, she starts ok when cold. Engine work normal, no strange sounds (ticking, rattling, exhaust backfiring) fuel consumption within specs, pulls strong. I changed spark plugs, oil and filter, air filter, had adjusted open/close position off throttle bodies, repaired starter motor. Do you have any idea what will be the problem.
Yea, depends on which side of the bike you're looking at it. It may have been written that way, but all valve trains rotate correctly in only one direction.
I cant remember, as this video is over 5 years old, but usually compression doesnt change after a valve adjustment on an engine with more than 36k miles.
Is there any way you can link me a workshop manual for an 06 R6s? Im needing to do this exact job but have no prior engine experience thanks for any help and also thanks for this vid!
Crenshaw SpeedWorks Inc OK thanks! I have a PDF of the owners manual is is that the same thing? I couldn't find anything about valve adjusment for some reason, are they two seperate things or did I just miss it? thanks for the reply!
OK I found one, the only problem I have an 06 R6s but it only has 05 r6 which is practically the same in appearance, and the 06 R6 which looks completely different from the r6s, my question now is do you think I can get away with using the 05 R6 workshop manual? Thanks again!
depends. i prefer a cold compression test over the hot when trying to verify minimum cylinder compression, and sometimes ill even do both to confirm a problem like excessive cylinder compression. Although for demonstration purposes, i did a cold compression test, and then performed the valve adjustment immediately afterwards. The valve clearance readings and adjustment should be performed on a cold engine. To answer your question about holding the throttle wide open, you are correct, but in my demonstration, the throttle bodies have been removed.
Well... You completely skipped through the part where you loosen the chain and take the camshafts out, in order to get to the last couple buckets and have enough room to pull them out. RIP this video
@@QuantumMotorWorks Nah I can't figure this out haha. Still on the hunt, was taking a lil break b/c I was letting this get the best of me. I'll get back to it soon. Sorry I came off a little agitated in the comment. You're video was very helpful. I'm glad you spent the time to video it all and post this guide. My bad, thanks for everything.
Crenshaw SpeedWorks Inc i ve seen it they put an plastic strip down the spark plug hole and move the piston up that makes some clearançe we can take with a small screw driver and magnet the shims
..first...YOU DONT TAKE OUT SPARK PLUGS WITHOUT BLOWING COMPRESSED AIR IN THERE..DIRT MIGHT FALL INTO THE ENGINE!!.second...you should have taken the radiator off...third...ziptie the chain to the exhaust sprocket..doooohhh....so no slipping will occur...forth..you dont need to take off the right timing chain cover on the bottom...only the little hole so you could see the marks alligning with the mating surface...dont need no stupid degree wheel...that is needed when going with adjustable cam sprockets...
Definitely a five valver for sure, I've done this over 10 times on my 2000, it's not bad once you do it!. It makes the R1 run soooo much better!.
very good film you made here. Nice and clear. Thank you Im starting my 99 R1 in the morning Im more confedant now that I watched your film. Your the first ever that I left a public comment , that should tell you something!!! True story. Thamks again Bill 99 R1
Much appreciation for posting this video. The effort to do this has not gone unnoticed! Thank you.
Many thanks for taking the time and trouble to put together this video sir - it's really appreciated.
Cracking open my 06 for the 1st time by myself. This makes it cake!! Much thanks my dude. 🙏
Checking my valves on my '11 r1 today, thanks for the video!
heck yea bro! best wishes!
Crenshaw SpeedWorks Inc some of the valves were too tight so i just pulled in to walmart for a new battery for my calipers lol
I am looking for more videos about Yamaha R1 RN09 2002 service, I am learning it now :D
I havent had an r1 in here for a while unfortunately. I typically come across more r6. Currently working on personal projects at the moment. Stay tuned for some k2 gsxr banshee videos. Thank you.
@@QuantumMotorWorks Motorcycles are similar in many ways, so I hope I could use some knowledge from your R6 and GSXR repairs :)
@@n8n8n8n yes kinda the same. Different specs, similar procedures. I have a custom Yamaha banshee with gsxr600 engine that I built. Will be doing videos on engine installation, valve adjustment, throttle body tuning, custom electrical harness, custom light installation with switches. I think that's bout it. And a test drive video. This thing is crazy.
Very informative, will see if I can emulate your procedure. Thanks 👍👌
Wow thats alot of work you have skills man
great video man, much appreciated this is my bible right now
glad to share the knowledge :)
I want to start on my 03 I've heard the 5 valve engine's are hard to get timing and cams right...that's my only ( idk) 🤷🏻♂️
@@cliffgibson9419 you’re gonna have a terrible time if you are trying to use this video as a guide, 09+ is cross plane engine. Your 03 is much simpler to get the timing
@@PHuongman416 I've done small engine dozens of times rebuild/carbs/ELC so on and I did my my 02 R6 valves..pretty mechanically inclined cars/bikes whatever ..but I've heard the 5 valve engine's are temperamental and seen for My in this video..I HATE shops always done all my own work..but $1000 for a shop or do it myself 🤷🏻♂️ I'm still contemplating lol
thanks for the video. such a tight space on the sports bike.
Very helpful, thanks for sharing!
You went to MMI didn't you? You're very meticulous and the way you kept everything in order. Excellent Job! just should've started it and run it after all that. I know it ran, 😆 🤣
What's mmi?
@@QuantumMotorWorks It's a school for motorcycle mechanics.
Motorcycle Mechanics Institute.
@@bradhelfrich6602 oh yes, I've never been, but some of the guys I've worked with have though.
Its so much easier when they have rockers. You just adjust the screw. No shims needed. I guess you need this kinda setup for the high RPM im guessing.
Yes, exactly.
And when you want more rpm on a v twin, you go Ducati valve train lolololol
Thanks for the video!
Usefull, Thanks
Great video. The part that scares me is getting the cam chain and the cams timed correctly. I have one question: is it OK to back of a little while cranking the engine by hand if I missed the correct spot while trying to get the proper alignment? Thanks!
@michor10 cam timing is scary......its even scarier when your off by a tooth, and you put it all together and crank it over by hand and the engine locks up......be sure to always verify your work by cranking the engine over by hand and not by using the starter motor or you could cause major damage. to answer your question, you DO NOT want to turn the engine back against its normal direction of operation, which would be clock wise from the CKP/ rotor bolt. Going back if you miss the timing mark would create excessive backlash in the cam chain and create incorrect valve timing and incorrect valve clearance. Doing that could make every clearance off by just enough to have excessive valve lift or incorrect clearances.
Thanks for answering. I have planned on doing a valve inspection this winter on my 2006 Fireblade which is close to 17000 miles.. I have the Haynes manual and all the tools plus a full shim set. My buddy who is a mechanic showed me years ago how to do it on my old Kawasaki Tomcat so I'm really confident that I can do it. Only the cam timing scares me a little. One last question: what can you do to release the engine if it locks up while cranking it by hand? Thanks! EDIT: I guess the proper way to unlock it would be removing the cams to re-time it, no?
@michor10 I once a long long time ago, when I was doing my first valve job (cylinder head off, new valves, machine work) on a 2006 Suzuki GSX-R600, I incorrectly set the cam timing off by so many degrees. I am not sure how many degrees (or cam teeth) I was off, but when I went to check my work, I could only crank the engine over less than 180 degrees before it completely locked up. When you rotate the engine by hand, and the timing is off, the valve will lightly strike the piston. As long as you realize this, and do not force it, no damage will result (unless crankshaft timing and valve timing are 180 degree off, you could cause damage to the valves and/ or pistons during camshaft installation) . You must then rotate the engine in the opposite direction to the original positions, and take it all apart and adjust the camshaft position on the chain. Check as many times as you can before you torque everything down.
Very nice video
Post a video of a 2006 R1 please
they are pretty much the same
Thanks for the video, really informative. But a got a little question: wouldnt it be much more easy to use the metric system on such small numbers? all the zeros would drive me crazy :D
thank you. I am a machinist, so i have worked with the standard system since day one. I just find it easier. I also find measuring in thousandths, more precise than measuring in millimeters; increments on the standard scale are in .001" where as metric increments are in 0.05mm increments. .... 0.001" = 0.0254mm.....standard scale is slightly more precise. metric kinda rounds it off, which is fine, because all the factory service manuals recommend it. My procedures are more precise. That is the difference.
Thanks for the reply! I gess at the end of the day it just depends on what you are used to. Coming from Germany the US system with inch just sometimes seems a bit weird and overcomplicated sometimes (especially when you want to transfer different measurments eg. feet - yards - miles, that kinda stuff). In the case of the valve adjustments i understand your point though!
Well, i have a '99 R1 and got to tackle the valves in a couple days... wish me luck :D
No probably man, I enjoy talking with the intelligent side of the motorcycle community. I would rather exchange information, than get those random internet bully's who just talk shit all day on my videos. I appreciate the feed back. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions on your R1 or contact my shop phone. (909) 657 - 9154. not sure how overseas calling works! lol Good luck!
Great video! Couldn’t have done my valve adjustment without you! I tried doing the compression test and my engine won’t do anything. I have a 2011 R1. Any thoughts on why it won’t do anything?
I'm not sure when you say your engine won't do anything? Sounds like you have some issues going on....
If the ignition turns on with the key, but you hit the starter button and nothing. Troubleshoot the starting circuit. After that is corrected, then you can continue troubleshooting additional circuits or mechanical peoblems.
Gonna need the wiring diagram and a multimeter.
Ended up being my bike was in gear! 🤦🏻♂️ I put it back together and now I’m getting ready to start it.
@@QuantumMotorWorks so i have the bike back together and it won't start. the engine turns over and it sounds like its trying to start but i don't get any further than that. during the valve adjustment i did lose a piece of a broken socket and in trying to find it i was told to try and flush it out with some oil. well i found the piece however in flushing it out i accidentally poured a small amount of oil into the spark plug hole. on start up there was some smoke but nothing too crazy. now it just doesn't want to light up and start! i have the bike on a trickle charger to keep the battery full so after a few runs of trying to start it, i leave it charge for a bit. do you think connecting it to a car battery would help the starter function better?
Really nice video.
Hi did you drop the coolant out before removing water pipes on head
Typically you gotta drop the coolant.....I think I did I can't remember...
Which shim kit should I buy for my 2009 R1? I've spent at least a half hour trying to figure out the shim O.D.
Fivespeed 302 o.d. is 7.48mm. get the brand pro x....I prefer them over hot cams.
@@QuantumMotorWorks Soo late but it has actually changed up from year model 2007 to 9.48mm
@@asdsdasdasda8040 interesting. It's been a while, Thanks for the update!
Hi, I have a problem on my Yamaha R6. After removing and reinstalling the camshafts, the suction valve clearance is slightly increased. I can not understand why, even if it is still in tolerance. I followed the step-by-step help manual.
Giuseppe Trovato In some situations were excessive valve and seat wear has occured, and the valve adjustment service interval is past due, the first valve clearance inspection may not yield sufficient results. This is typically caused by cam chain stretch and/ or camshaft sprocket teeth wear. The only other possibilities would be incorrect valve clearance measurements that were initially taken, incorrect math when selecting the proper valve shim, or you need to spin the engine over a few more times to set the valve and seats. Maybe you checked the valve clearances in the wrong order? did you check each cylinders valve clearance in the correct firing order on the compression stroke (camshafts lobe pointing away from each other)?
I did the measurement three times before removing the camshafts and three times after I reinstalled them. I
did the measurement by rotating the crankshaft clockwise (burst
sequence 1-2-4-3), the lobes of camshafts were in opposite directions. The bike has 40,000 km and is the first time it undergoes this job. But is this a tightening problem? I installed the camshaft mount bolts with intersection in successive passes. First, taking all at 5 nm, then I locked it to 10 nm. The key I knit is new and of good quality. The bolts were lubricated with engine oil. Sorry for my English, but I'm Italian and I help with the translator.
Giuseppe Trovato is your valve timing off? did you use the special procedure i used to spin the engine over for the first time after installing the cam chain tensioner? i slowly rotate the engine and cut the zip ties off that secure the chain to the camshaft sprockets. if you dont zip tie them down when doing the first engine rotation, the chain always slips on the cam sprocket and throws the timing off, which would give you a bad clearance?. I am not sure how you could have double checked the clearances 3 times after putting it back together and they would still be incorrect? that doesnt make sense to me, or maybe i am lost in translation?
I did the measurement three times to clear any reading errors with the thickness gauge. Sometimes the blades overlap. The engine phase is perfect, I signaled before removing the camshafts, when I reinstalled everything I tied the chain to the gears with plastic clamps. Do the camshaft mount bolts be lubricated even under the head or just in the thread ?
Giuseppe Trovato if the feeler gauge blades over lapped when you made your check, it would give you an incorrect reading and probably be very loose. I can't recall if oil only gets placed on the threads or under the head. it depends on the manufacturer. if the book doesnt call for it, its probably not critical in most cases. even if you were to not put the oil, that would only effect the torque value on your torque wrench, not the actual valve clearance.
Hi there, problems that i have with my 04 R1 is that she wont start normal (longer cranking) when hot or cooled down a little, she starts ok when applying little throttle, she starts ok when cold. Engine work normal, no strange sounds (ticking, rattling, exhaust backfiring) fuel consumption within specs, pulls strong. I changed spark plugs, oil and filter, air filter, had adjusted open/close position off throttle bodies, repaired starter motor. Do you have any idea what will be the problem.
That could be anything.
225 psi, very good. What is the milage on this bike.
Would you believe that the R1 Service manual says to rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise to find TDC of the pistons....
Yea, depends on which side of the bike you're looking at it. It may have been written that way, but all valve trains rotate correctly in only one direction.
Здравствуйте а можно перигильзовать целиндры двигателя Ямаха р1 1999г???
What was the compression after everything was done?
I cant remember, as this video is over 5 years old, but usually compression doesnt change after a valve adjustment on an engine with more than 36k miles.
Is there any way you can link me a workshop manual for an 06 R6s? Im needing to do this exact job but have no prior engine experience thanks for any help and also thanks for this vid!
try to find a free version on google. if you cant, then you can buy one off tradebit.com for typically $5
Crenshaw SpeedWorks Inc OK thanks! I have a PDF of the owners manual is is that the same thing? I couldn't find anything about valve adjusment for some reason, are they two seperate things or did I just miss it? thanks for the reply!
OK I found one, the only problem I have an 06 R6s but it only has 05 r6 which is practically the same in appearance, and the 06 R6 which looks completely different from the r6s, my question now is do you think I can get away with using the 05 R6 workshop manual? Thanks again!
JustAnR6 the 2003-2005 yamaha r6 is identical to the 2006-2009 yamaha r6s
Awesome thanks so much!
how much does this job cost to do?
$350-$600
Seems like dropping the engine would make things so much easier.
Easier to do out of the frame. But it's a lot of extra work to remove the engine just to do a valve adjustment
Easier to do out of the frame. But it's a lot of extra work to remove the engine just to do a valve adjustment
Great video. Is it possible to get some remote assistance on coolant in the oil, 02 R1? I can pay via PayPal.
Hey there. Contact (909) 245-4854
Text me, I typically dont answer calls. But once I know it's you, we can go from there. Thank you.
shouldn't the engine be hot and throttle wide open?
depends. i prefer a cold compression test over the hot when trying to verify minimum cylinder compression, and sometimes ill even do both to confirm a problem like excessive cylinder compression. Although for demonstration purposes, i did a cold compression test, and then performed the valve adjustment immediately afterwards. The valve clearance readings and adjustment should be performed on a cold engine. To answer your question about holding the throttle wide open, you are correct, but in my demonstration, the throttle bodies have been removed.
Crenshaw SpeedWorks Inc great stuff. thanks!
Well... You completely skipped through the part where you loosen the chain and take the camshafts out, in order to get to the last couple buckets and have enough room to pull them out. RIP this video
Hopefully you found what you needed and got your bike fixed. Best of luck.
@@QuantumMotorWorks Nah I can't figure this out haha. Still on the hunt, was taking a lil break b/c I was letting this get the best of me. I'll get back to it soon. Sorry I came off a little agitated in the comment. You're video was very helpful. I'm glad you spent the time to video it all and post this guide. My bad, thanks for everything.
Mon amie,tu a complike a la fin.La chen ets le poitns mark ..
We can change the shims without taking the cams out
The Rider no you cannot
Crenshaw SpeedWorks Inc i ve seen it they put an plastic strip down the spark plug hole and move the piston up that makes some clearançe we can take with a small screw driver and magnet the shims
The Rider maybe in outter space. Not on the planet Earth.
Crenshaw SpeedWorks Inc see the vídeo of gts garage step by step how to measuring & valve clearançe
The Rider ive done 2,000,000 valve ajustments, the cams have to be removed to access the valve shims, there is no other way lol.
..first...YOU DONT TAKE OUT SPARK PLUGS WITHOUT BLOWING COMPRESSED AIR IN THERE..DIRT MIGHT FALL INTO THE ENGINE!!.second...you should have taken the radiator off...third...ziptie the chain to the exhaust sprocket..doooohhh....so no slipping will occur...forth..you dont need to take off the right timing chain cover on the bottom...only the little hole so you could see the marks alligning with the mating surface...dont need no stupid degree wheel...that is needed when going with adjustable cam sprockets...
dude I cant see what your writing with tha damn flashlight shinning on it bro
?