Joe's Garage 383 Engine Rebuild Part 1 - Crankshaft Installation
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- I Let Joe take over my camera to follow his Chrysler 383 build over the past few weeks, we want to bring you the tips and tricks of rebuilding this Big Block.
This is the first episode of a multipart series that will guide you through the process of rebuilding a Chrysler 383 Big Block Engine.
In this Episode Joe walks through the installation of the Crankshaft.
Love old Mopars, and read dozens of engine-rebuild books, but nothing like a real-time video where it shows everything step-by-step and doesn't cut away assuming you know how to do something. Very appreciated, sir!
VERY durable engine, Deep block, Crank sets well below centerline.......great engine
I have the original 383 block for my 66 Coronet that needs rebuilt. I've done everything on the top end but never rebuilt the bottom end of a 383. This video series makes me think about attempting it. Thanks for the videos.
Nicks garage
Nice video and not too many 383 "Self-Help" videos on youtube as thorough as yours. I'm doing a Dodge BB 400 myself. On to part 2. Thanks!
I talked to my engine builder guy and he said go ahead and re-use those old ass parts its good man.... *rolls eyes*
New bearings arent in the budget, Lmao. What's the use of tearing it down if you're gonna put the used parts back in it?
Thanks for the show. And thanks for showing c bodies love.
I did a muscle motors stroker kit for the 383, has a 4.25 crank, you get a shit load more tq! I used 440 sorce ported heads solid comp cam, rpm edelbrock intake and 950 carb, 590hp and 615 tq. pump gas, and get 14mpg witb 355s tons o fun!
Joe .. the purpose of the pipe cleaner is to take up space in the seal joint and actually squeeze the sealant out to fill the void you ended up with . yes its an indication of not having enough,but you should also saturate the pipe cleaner. without it saturated it can suck up the silicone you first put in and compound the problem .. your fix was the right one .. good job .. big block mopars are notorious for rear main leaks around the seal retainer rails .. the offsetting of the seal and the pipe cleaners is the way to go
Awsome video thanks brother. .. I'll be watching all your 383 vids. .
+Luis Malo Thank you for watching! Joe is very good at showing people how to rebuild these Chrysler Big Blocks so we thought we would make a series out of his latest project.
So the "pipe cleaner" part of the process is there to induce a swelling of the sealant. Rear main seals on a 383/440 are notorious for leaks. be generous with the sealant I have pics of the rear seal that came off my 67 from the factory....
when building a performance engine NEVER cut corners !
I've always wanted to know; Why wasn't the 383 more used & built? Massive bore, short stroke, should be a high rpm monster. Deep skirt block, seems to be designed well, just being curious
The 383 was used heavily from road runners to C body’s and everything in between.
@@DoyleShadduck Does that make it a good platform, no it doesn't
How well did the rear main seal work out?
pghharry no leaks.
I have a 66' Newport in my back yard. Has break issues and can't seem to narrow down the clicking sound that is being made when the car is trying to turn over. Not the battery - using a battery charger that has enough power to start the car's engine (or says so on the battery charger) so not sure else where to look.
Andy Kemnitz check the wheel cylinders and break lines for a broken line you might need a union fitting
Rock auto has front and rear seals, at least in overhaul kit
Is this the same 383 that’s in a 68 charger
Justin Bowers this was originally a 383 2 bbl. but the same essentially
What size bolts are in the seal retainer? I noticed you grinded off a socket to make it fit. Just curious if there are special sockets for this. Thanks.
Hi looking for spares for 69 chrysler 383
those big block Mopars are notorious for leaking rear seals. my 69 383 has 3000 miles on a complete rebuild, and is leaking at the rear seal spraying oil all over my headers. can the seal be changed with engine in the car? thanks for the vid :)
+69roadr I talked with Joe about this question. He said there is indeed a procedure for changing the seal while the motor is still in the car, however it is not his preferred method. He said it is awkward and will probably result in a leaking seal again. The best and most reliable way to ensure no leaks is to pull the engine and change it like in the video.
+ric0000 thanks bro, i was afraid of that. i guess to do it right and be done with it will have to pull motor.
i know this is old but i thought you should know that mancini racing has both the old rope type as well as the two part seals for your motor and they are supposed to work very well.
@@purplexenno thanks
So did the rebuilder mess up the rear main? How long did the original one last?
I have done atleast 100 big block mopars in 30 years and not one rear seal leaks , just polish the are on the crank with the mico groves , off set the seal and....nope ill keep the rest to my self :
Can you come to Austin and help me replace the rear main on my 440?
is that some kind of lube he's putting on the top of the shafts
+errin alexander Yes, that is "Motor Assembly Lube" being used on the crankshaft bearings.
What type of silicone is best for this? Nice video :)
Mitchell Zurick I use ultra black permatex
383s work better with a 4.25 crank!
Please explain. Thanks!
oh hell no. 383s are famous because of their stroke.
ric0000. 383s are great engines! But lack tq. I've been building engines for 30 plus years, I like tq. Like Carrol Shelby said,. Tourqe wins races!
@@ric0000 Get an extra 5,000 dollars and give Muscle Motors a call ! (that's for the short block) They have a good web site, I learned something.