I had the same exact bike, never seen this issue and I BEAT on it and sold it with 25,000 hard miles on it....I have only ever heard of the cam chain tensioner being an issue, which I definitely had as well..Put on an adjustable Graves....good to go. Either way, it was tuned by Eric at EDR in Portland with the unlocked ecu etc...made 79 ft lbs and 161 HP at the wheel on premium pump and a full quality Ti system. My favorite superbike of all time in handling, engine, aural pleasure, and comfort (6' 3") no doubt that I've ever ridden or raced.
Appreciate someone that uses the correct terminology in his explanations. The push lever when installing the clutch cover will have two punch marks. These should align once it is installed correctly.
Hey, i know it’s an old video but can you answer what do you think about the reliability of the 09-14? I wanna buy one and I’d say it be used for a lot of wheelies
Does this bike value for my money? I'm looking 1litre bike now, Consider between this 2014 R1 n zx10r 2014, really wish it's reliable AF, or otherwise I'll get those conti lemon bike. Pls help me
Dear what is the name of these 2 Disc you install with friction plates ??? I mean what i will ask to my Yamaha Dealer when ordering it ??? Because i also have Lurching issue and its feel very bad...i change 3 sets of different companies Clutch and Friction plates but still the problem is same.
Any chance you can give me the part numbers for the judder spring and flat plate you put in? The links don't work any more. I run the parts dept in a dealership, so its not hard for me to get.
I have this EBC heavy duty spring kit for the pressure plate. When I install them, I never get a torque reading at all on my wrench because as they tighten, the spring just compresses. They are no stiff enough to add resistance on the bolt. any ideas here?
This mod should fix the stutter issue because a lot of people think the stock clutch springs just are not stiff enough. By doing this mod u are adding very small amount of thickness to the clutch and accentually add tension to the springs without having to get the Graves springs, which are stiffer.
Why did Yamaha release a bike with a lurching clutch? I had the R1 2008 and it was silky smooth. Picked up the 2010 and it makes me look stupid at the lights with it's inconsistent lurch.
So i test rode an 09 r1 yesterday and when i was starting off from a dead stop in 1st gear i let out the clutch and the bike was jerking like it wanted to die almost until i got it a bit up to speed, i passed on the bike just because of that issue didnt know whether its bad for the bike or not .....do i need the graves clutch kit or can i ride the bike like that without any problems?
@@GladiarOfDestruction yeah i applied throttle, didnt seem normal to me. Went with a cbr 1000rr which had waaaay smoother clutch let out and overall responsiveness
I did this mod aswell not because of judder but because i had the feeling the clutch was nog fully letting go when i pull the clutchlever. Anyway there is still a little friction after this mod also i just think because it is a freaking big stack of plates.... I did do the camchain mod aswell and that was super no chain rattling anymore when starting !!!!
Hi dude do you also have the feeling when driving and shifting that there is still to much resistance from the clutch to the gearbox to have a smooth shift feeling ? I already did the chain update and this clutch update but the clutch friction is always there no matter how far i pull the clutchlever...
Hey Moe Im gunna bet you have not been able to resolve the issue you have stated . O boy let me drop a golden nugget your way . ..... and everyone else listen to me with joy this problem he has described goes in reverse logic aswell ok .. let me explain ....real quick Moe only thing other then what im going to explain that can effect this would be that you also need to make sure you have bout a quarter inch free play when your hand is off the clutch lever k , now after that here it goes ... your shifting response kicking bike into gear the force that you feel weather it is feeling like its going in too hard and possibly making a harsh noise or no going into gear just barely or missing the grab of gear usually 1st to 2nd has all to do with the adjustment of the shift rod located attached to your shft peg , screwing it in or out will make the transmission like butter adjust and feel shift by hand n then on ride come back adjust agin go out aain untill its perfect .....
@@stevenwheeler5569 Thanks for the reply however i don't see why adjusting the hight of the shift peg is gonna effect the grippyness of the clutch. In my opinion the clutch material is kinda verry grippy stuff so maybe someone got aftermak-rked plates who are less grippy ?
@gasturbine59 it's a big stack of plates. If they had designed it to engage more the clutchlever would be too hard to pull. That could then maybe be solved with softer springs bur would the clutch be strong enough then ? Who nows ? ;-)
Thinking about it i had people seen having issue with the pressure plate or clutchnoise so that could be the bearing in the pressure plate. Imagen that bearing to have the smallest amount freeplay would let the plate move and never lift equal away from the plates causing them so have some friction... I'm gonna think about try to change that bearing with another high quality bearing...
The grabiness of the clutch is no longer something i see as not good. I did the mod to try how it feels but i got it back to standard. For me the only issue is that the travel from the actuator arm on the clutch plate is too short. I would want to have it shorter and not longer but that would make the clutchlever maybe too hard to pull... so i just gonna ride it like i stole it and deal with it 😁
@@geatgray7864 Pump your brakes tough guy. My comment echoed the nonsense of your comment, and in some circles, they call that a joke. If you ever want help with something, your best bet is to be descriptive and specific about your issue. The internet is filled with people willing to help out others. Odds are, you aren't the first person to have a problem with whatever you're riding/smoking/killing/fixing. You can't expect advice, or good advice I should say, from an unclear statement, that flirts with the form of a question, lacks any punctuation, wrapped up in a teenagers panicking tone, and is riddled with misspellings.
This so called mod is nothing new or radical, it's only going back to the older Gen 1 FZS1000 clutch stack system which used a concave steel spring ring to help release the plates, they did away with the spring ring on the R1 motor, even did away with coil springs for a while & used a crappy spring plate affair, now it's all going back to the original set up of the Gen 1 FZS1000 ... if you remove the inner clutch hub & drill holes in between the steel plate grooves, the grabby clutch will disappear due to more oil being sprayed in between the plates, it's grabby because it's not wet enough with motor oil.
Crazy idea here... hear me out but... MAYBE if you all just learn to have a lil bit of throttle control and also learn what a friction point is, you wont have any "lurching".
@@Learn-more610 i do in fact own an r1... i have ridden 3 different generations of an r1 to include an r1m. I promise you even the earlier generations are fully capable of taking off smoothly. All you have to do is get proficient with throttle control and your clutches friction point. Its basic shit.
I had the same exact bike, never seen this issue and I BEAT on it and sold it with 25,000 hard miles on it....I have only ever heard of the cam chain tensioner being an issue, which I definitely had as well..Put on an adjustable Graves....good to go. Either way, it was tuned by Eric at EDR in Portland with the unlocked ecu etc...made 79 ft lbs and 161 HP at the wheel on premium pump and a full quality Ti system. My favorite superbike of all time in handling, engine, aural pleasure, and comfort (6' 3") no doubt that I've ever ridden or raced.
Appreciate someone that uses the correct terminology in his explanations. The push lever when installing the clutch cover will have two punch marks. These should align once it is installed correctly.
Hi, can you share the parts number of the what’s need to do the job? The links on the description are not working now, thanks in advance, great video
Any chance at parts numbers? Your links for the parts and where you purchased don’t work
Hi
Could You please post the required parts nr again as the ebay links don't work anymore.
Thank You
Thanks mate!!! Glad you share all these with us. None problem yet with my bike but good to know the process...
Hey, i know it’s an old video but can you answer what do you think about the reliability of the 09-14? I wanna buy one and I’d say it be used for a lot of wheelies
Awesome video bro, do you teach to work on other bikes besides R1?
I have the same problem in my 09 R1...can somebody please send me the link to buy these parts... its not there in the video
Could you show me the parts numbers so I can order the parts for my r1 thank you
Bro. Awesome explanation! Seems pretty straightforward
Does this bike value for my money? I'm looking 1litre bike now, Consider between this 2014 R1 n zx10r 2014, really wish it's reliable AF, or otherwise I'll get those conti lemon bike. Pls help me
Are they stock clutch plates or?
I just buy a 2013 r1 with 26,000 miles end I have problem going to the 1st gear only.
I’m gonna do this upgrade to see if it works 👍
Dear what is the name of these 2 Disc you install with friction plates ??? I mean what i will ask to my Yamaha Dealer when ordering it ??? Because i also have Lurching issue and its feel very bad...i change 3 sets of different companies Clutch and Friction plates but still the problem is same.
Any chance you can give me the part numbers for the judder spring and flat plate you put in? The links don't work any more. I run the parts dept in a dealership, so its not hard for me to get.
I have this EBC heavy duty spring kit for the pressure plate. When I install them, I never get a torque reading at all on my wrench because as they tighten, the spring just compresses. They are no stiff enough to add resistance on the bolt. any ideas here?
Hi great video can you share the part number of those parts
This mod should fix the stutter issue because a lot of people think the stock clutch springs just are not stiff enough. By doing this mod u are adding very small amount of thickness to the clutch and accentually add tension to the springs without having to get the Graves springs, which are stiffer.
Thanks for clearly explaining that👍 would you know the part numbers for these two parts ? Thanks dude 😎
thats not what is does, it eliminates the slipper clutch. Thats the thing juddering
One issue
Can you fix the links for clutch plates
If you could edit the description please and add the part numbers
Can you do a before and after video of the problem please
Why did Yamaha release a bike with a lurching clutch? I had the R1 2008 and it was silky smooth. Picked up the 2010 and it makes me look stupid at the lights with it's inconsistent lurch.
Hi, My 2014 has clutch judder any chance you could send me the parts list please
When someone looking for the parts just buy the last plate/spring of the 07-08 R1 with the gasket of 14B ofcourse...
I know it's an older video but can you let everyone know if the mod fixed your issue?
Links doesn't work. Got part numbers?
Wow like a week ago you got 7k now you almost have 8k congrats
No_Limit_yt Getting there!
Can you put the Yamaha part # for the disc plates used, the first 2 links are broken
I heard you can use a honda Goldwing clutch for 2004 - 06 for a slipper clutch and more dependable. Is this true?
Links don’t work anymore, i have this issue with my 07. Its just adding those three friction plates in before clutch rings?? Anyone have part links?
good vid .Detailed.im having issues with my 01 R1 and best vid ive seen
Thanks!
I have a 2000 R1 which judders on take off is it the same issue?
I have a 2013 r1 only on take off I feel like the clutch is not grabbing or slipping. Once I take off it’s fine.
hello devin my 2008 yzf r1, but the right shadow is not lit anyway, I don't get burned, what should I do I can help myself?
hi dude can you do a video about the cct , cam chain tensioner , how to do it if you have some knowlodge about it !!! thanks
I can tell you how :) oem replacement or manual tensioner?
Anyone has the currently link for those parts?
So i test rode an 09 r1 yesterday and when i was starting off from a dead stop in 1st gear i let out the clutch and the bike was jerking like it wanted to die almost until i got it a bit up to speed, i passed on the bike just because of that issue didnt know whether its bad for the bike or not .....do i need the graves clutch kit or can i ride the bike like that without any problems?
Did you apply throttle or no?
Cause that's not something you normally do when driving any manual shift vehicle
@@GladiarOfDestruction yeah i applied throttle, didnt seem normal to me. Went with a cbr 1000rr which had waaaay smoother clutch let out and overall responsiveness
@@GladiarOfDestruction but thats how r1's are, later that month i rode my brothers 2015 r1 and rode it on the roughest mode and same thing so
Thank you for the Video, all worked out great for me. 2014 R1 I didn't have the problem, But I just wanted to do it in case.
Great job, figured out my problem, had the last plate in wrong. Thank you Devin
hi you had some noises going on as well ?
What's the part number for the friction plate?
He did answer 👎🏼👎🏼
hi! me i ask whats the part # of the plates?
starting to look NICE
No_Limit_yt Thank you
What was the name of the parts you installed?..
I did this mod aswell not because of judder but because i had the feeling the clutch was nog fully letting go when i pull the clutchlever. Anyway there is still a little friction after this mod also i just think because it is a freaking big stack of plates.... I did do the camchain mod aswell and that was super no chain rattling anymore when starting !!!!
What year R1?
@@TrackRejects956 09-14 RN22 but mine was build 2010
Hi dude do you also have the feeling when driving and shifting that there is still to much resistance from the clutch to the gearbox to have a smooth shift feeling ? I already did the chain update and this clutch update but the clutch friction is always there no matter how far i pull the clutchlever...
Hey Moe Im gunna bet you have not been able to resolve the issue you have stated . O boy let me drop a golden nugget your way . ..... and everyone else listen to me with joy this problem he has described goes in reverse logic aswell ok .. let me explain ....real quick Moe only thing other then what im going to explain that can effect this would be that you also need to make sure you have bout a quarter inch free play when your hand is off the clutch lever k , now after that here it goes ... your shifting response kicking bike into gear the force that you feel weather it is feeling like its going in too hard and possibly making a harsh noise or no going into gear just barely or missing the grab of gear usually 1st to 2nd has all to do with the adjustment of the shift rod located attached to your shft peg , screwing it in or out will make the transmission like butter adjust and feel shift by hand n then on ride come back adjust agin go out aain untill its perfect .....
@@stevenwheeler5569 Thanks for the reply however i don't see why adjusting the hight of the shift peg is gonna effect the grippyness of the clutch. In my opinion the clutch material is kinda verry grippy stuff so maybe someone got aftermak-rked plates who are less grippy ?
@gasturbine59 it's a big stack of plates. If they had designed it to engage more the clutchlever would be too hard to pull. That could then maybe be solved with softer springs bur would the clutch be strong enough then ? Who nows ? ;-)
Thinking about it i had people seen having issue with the pressure plate or clutchnoise so that could be the bearing in the pressure plate. Imagen that bearing to have the smallest amount freeplay would let the plate move and never lift equal away from the plates causing them so have some friction... I'm gonna think about try to change that bearing with another high quality bearing...
The grabiness of the clutch is no longer something i see as not good. I did the mod to try how it feels but i got it back to standard. For me the only issue is that the travel from the actuator arm on the clutch plate is too short. I would want to have it shorter and not longer but that would make the clutchlever maybe too hard to pull... so i just gonna ride it like i stole it and deal with it 😁
NEED HELP. After i mounted the clutch together it makes a kind of grinding noice in neutral when i pull the clutch leaver. Bike: Yzf r125
What is the part you installed
What slip set up on you got
Excellent video!!
How long will it be until we get another frs video?
Sam Howard 2-3 Days
Great job Devin....
the clutch is so high up compared to oil level so i bet it doesnt get enough oil, i believe they fixed it with later models
Im having the issue on that tension. Lining up the dot with the arrow to hit that sweet spot. I just can't get it right. Smh day3!!! SOS!
those pressure plate bolts with the clutch springs and the lock rings, shouldnt you replace the bolts due to stretching.
How are they stretch bolts when tightening torque is 10NM? think about it..
Nope. Theyre not torque to yield
just got 2009 model, same thing , i though it was the power, but i now know its this issue. like everyone else here , what's the part number please
cupped out towards bike??
Good job but the links to part don't work can send them in this message thanks bro
Does this work on the 05 R1?
Those parts come stock on the 05 model
Sooo... did it fix the shudder??
Erik Adkins I don’t think so, did the same install on a 2012 Yamaha r1 the clutch does not even engage, just make a screeching noise. Waste of money
gabri12ful sweet, thanks for the info
Did his mod and it fixed the lurching and smoothed out first gear. Used to get a shudder upon take off, that’s all gone. Smooth as butter
you must put the new pads on a oil (the old oil for the motorcycle) atleast 1 night then you install on the bike
I was expecting bike to be turn on after changing plates.. :(
Links don't work anymore
What do I do when my bike will go in gear when I start it
Ride it, ya fool!
I found ot what to do ass face amd thats not what u do
@@geatgray7864 Pump your brakes tough guy. My comment echoed the nonsense of your comment, and in some circles, they call that a joke.
If you ever want help with something, your best bet is to be descriptive and specific about your issue. The internet is filled with people willing to help out others. Odds are, you aren't the first person to have a problem with whatever you're riding/smoking/killing/fixing.
You can't expect advice, or good advice I should say, from an unclear statement, that flirts with the form of a question, lacks any punctuation, wrapped up in a teenagers panicking tone, and is riddled with misspellings.
My 09 has shudder at low rpm low revs in 1st gear. Feels like a broken engine mount or the clutch. 23k miles on odo.
I have 2010 R1 and have the same issue.. Guess it's normal
Usually, that is the clutch issue that this video is attempting to fix. I will assume that u have gotten this fixed since u posted 4 months ago.
Does this damage the bike or clutch in any way as the bike shakes? Seems like it wants to die until up 2 speed
@@Maskedman167 i think they are all like that. It's a race bike it doesn't like going 5 or 10 kmh. I just found it annoying.
@@rebel7745 Drop a tooth on your front cog, fixes this
Oh...you’re Cameron’s brother! I thought he had switched to street bikes.
Bro. 74 nm ? In torqu
Yoooo it looks good
Thank you!
When cranking engine disengage clutch an bike lunges forward.
You forgot to put 14B into red mark. Hope it is ok) I forgot too...
Hi i asked you question why u didn’t answer???
I did this mod and my bike still rattles
Good
8.6ft lbs.
Damn links dont work nomore
careful with that drill lol
This so called mod is nothing new or radical, it's only going back to the older Gen 1 FZS1000 clutch stack system which used a concave steel spring ring to help release the plates, they did away with the spring ring on the R1 motor, even did away with coil springs for a while & used a crappy spring plate affair, now it's all going back to the original set up of the Gen 1 FZS1000 ... if you remove the inner clutch hub & drill holes in between the steel plate grooves, the grabby clutch will disappear due to more oil being sprayed in between the plates, it's grabby because it's not wet enough with motor oil.
You should stay behind the camera.
Kebanyakan omong sih ni orang😬
😍😈
Luis Cordova Angulo 😃
Crazy idea here... hear me out but... MAYBE if you all just learn to have a lil bit of throttle control and also learn what a friction point is, you wont have any "lurching".
You ever ride an r1??
@@Learn-more610 i do in fact own an r1... i have ridden 3 different generations of an r1 to include an r1m. I promise you even the earlier generations are fully capable of taking off smoothly. All you have to do is get proficient with throttle control and your clutches friction point. Its basic shit.
Why no sound test before and after?