I had this issue with my LED. My problem was caused because I ran the probe wire with all of my other wires for everything through the same hole in my tent! So I ran the fan and probe lines through the other side and have had no issues since!
@@ElevatedAgriculture I have been showing 45 rh, but getting a few small patches of powdery mildew, which doesn't add up. All mycords are running thru the same hole. That's a good heads up! Thanks Chris and Elevated, I will be making that change today and see where my readings go from there!
Cut a hole in the bottom of a solo cup & slice it in thirds. Take the bottom third with the hole Put the probe through & it will now be mostly shaded with the cup from the hps Might have too add a degree or two for the indirect temp reading but this should be a little solution. If a cup is too big maybe just a 1x1 inch of cardboard above it too block the light as well
I’m am SOOO glad I saw ur video. I was about to purchase the kit even opting for the 6 inch exhaust system in a 4x4 tent to handle the heat from my 600hps.. Not so sure now!
Hey brother, im using a digital ballast that can do both HPS and MH. To my understanding its the digital ballasts commonly used with HPS that is emitting some type of radio interference that throws the probe out of whack. I havent used the HPS light yet, but i was having similar symptoms with the MH. Apparantly also these digital ballasts can also mess up HAM radio operators signal. I made a cheap homemade faraday cage out of aluminim tape and a old shelf and shielded my ballast into a corner, and then i removed the probe from being cabled with the lights power cable to the ballast, and made sure the probe cable is far away as possible from ballast Edit- i also put the controller unit in a metal box with a lid
Andrew has the most likely explanation. It's not the light emitted. It's the electromagnetic emissions outside of what we perceive as light that is causing interference with the electronics within the controller (susceptibility) or potentially via the long cable going to the probe (conducted radiation / conducted susceptibility). Think of the probe as though it were an antenna. It's receiving a bunch of noise from the noisy HPS.
i had a similar issue when i started with the T6 when using an LED light but the cause was not the light but rather that i had the temp sensor cable and the power cable routed next to each other. as soon as i separated them, the readings straightened themselves out. Had the fan for 2 years now and love it.
Brooooo!!! I can't believe I stumbled onto your video by mistake!!! I literally just went through this with one fan. I thought I was getting true readings. Thank you.
Another issue: during low temps, the T-series fan will turn off instead of running at a low speed. AC Infinity has fixed the issue but it might not hit shelves for a while. The S-series doesn't have this issue so if you cannot wait, buy the S-series fan and then add the Controller 67 separately.
That is weird, maybe certain brands of bulbs or types of ballasts affects them differently? I have mine running at a constant speed 24/7 now as well. Thanks for the comment! 🙂
There is a work around!!! I ran into the exact same issue. Tried a ton of things and finally realized it is the sensor probe. Specifically, being an unshielded cable. Wrap the cable from the 1/8th inch input to the end of the probe. This will effectively shield the cable from the magnets in the ballast. Mine works all the time now.
After watching the video this is what I thought also is there no way to shield the probe from the HPS light emitted ? All it needs to do is be able to read the relative humidity and temps right. Glad you guys are finding work arounds cause that would really suck! ;)
It seems like it just depends on the setup, some work and some don’t 🤷🏼♂️ I have tried moving my probe all over the tent and no luck. Thanks for letting me know your experience 🙂
I have the new 67 controller and its actually amazing, connect to bluetooth aswell and Spider Famer LED Lights would be easier to maintain and would produce less heat then an hps light, but yea great video man
Just got the se5000 from spider farmer and loving it, definitely an upgrade, previously I had been using 420w in a 2x4 by the time flower would end but now the 3x3 is able to flower the same amount of plants using over 100w less with better coverage and less heat. Should definitely be having some purple popping this run, definitely the mimosa evo and the ccc/goji
I did not have any problems when I was using HPS. I ran through 2 grows with HPS and a T6. I am guessing a few more variables in play. I now have LED's and no problems. Good luck. The fans are amazing. I hope you can take full advantage of their features.
That’s strange, like you said it must be a few different variables at play in my scenario that’s causing the issue. I’ve started using a few LED lights and am able to use all the features of my T4 now, and I’ll be replacing my HPS with an LED next. Thanks for the comment! 🙂🤜
i can confirm, working for me too under HPS 400 w but its in a cool hood too so maybe thats creating a faraday cage or something. The power of the bulb itself deffo plays a role too
Couldn't you just find a place to shadow the probe inside the tent where you could still get airflow for temp/humidity without direct light on the sensor?
Growing in my garage in the middle of winter in Canada, HPS produces lots of heat so no need to run a heater all the time, it actually saves electricity. I do find the hygrometer fairly accurate, and the Bluetooth function to the phone is great too!
Originally I was growing in my garage in the middle of winter in Canada, HPS produces lots of heat so no need to run a heater all the time. I run LEDs in the summer and this winter I am going to use the Mars Hydro FC8000 (series coming soon!)
@@ElevatedAgriculture I went from a 600hps/MH various wattage and spectrums for different life stages. Now running an SF2000 & SF1000 LED. Difference is night an day. It’s taken years for me to make the move 😂 more importantly.. the controller 67 is a must have. You can’t maintain negative air pressure without it. It goes to 0 fan speed when the desired temp is reached. No bueno for stealthy ops
I tried shielding it with a bunch of things. Unfortunately the sensor doesn’t even work properly in a separate, completely dark tent in the same room as the HPS ballast. I believe it’s something to do with the RF frequency given off from the ballast, and the fact that the probe cable is unshielded. Thanks for the comment 🙂
have they found out a solution for this? im an hps man bought the t6 a while back and have yet been able to hook it up. glad i saw this would of threw me for a loop
My controller is weird.. the temp readings only go in increments of 2. So when I calibrate if I’m at an odd number say 73, my controller will only read 73-75-77-79 etc. if I calibrate on even I go in 2s on even numbers 72-74-76-78 etc. I don’t understand this at all to be honest.. I feel like the probes are very inaccurate.. I did email company and they sent me a brand new controller and probe for free instantly. GREAT company I have the T8 and an S4. Great build quality, but just still don’t trust the Rh or temp readings. More of a ball park I think..
@@ElevatedAgriculture absolutely! I actually just picked up the AC infinity 8x4 grow tent a month or 2 ago, and OMG… AMAZING! Priced very similar to Mars hydro tents and tents in that price point, BUT the quality is OUTSTANDING! the poles are MASSIVE and so strong! I have 2 HLG 550s and a Chilled Growcraft x6 all hanging in there WITH an 8inch can filter. (Super heavy) and no issues at all.. can shake the tent no pole movements or swaying at all! Why by a gorilla tent when AC infinity just flipped the tent game upside down…. Cheap tents with amazing build quality super think canvas like way thicker then anything I’ve ran before, and again the poles are a lot bigger then other brands. IN LOVE
@@brianb2454 that is AMAZING to hear my friend! I am definitely going to be picking up a AC Infinity 3x3 tent to replace my current mars hydro 2.3x2.3. Thanks for all the info growmie 🤜🤜
Thank you so much, uploading a new video right now and I’m aiming to upload content more regularly now that I’ve moved and set up a permanent grow room 😁
What exactly about that type of light causes the sensor to flip? I wonder if you'd solve the issue by shielding the temp and humidity sensor. Perhaps use an empty 1 qt white yogurt container. Make a hole on the bottom to insert the sensor. Place inside the tent, making sure no direct light and as little indirect light as possible reaches the sensor.
I tried shielding it with a bunch of things. Unfortunately the sensor doesn’t even work properly in a separate, completely dark tent in the same room as the HPS ballast. I believe it’s something to do with the RF frequency given off from the ballast, and the fact that the probe cable is unshielded. Thanks for the comment 🙂
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I tried shielding it with a bunch of things. Unfortunately the sensor doesn’t even work properly in a separate, completely dark tent in the same room as the HPS ballast. I believe it’s something to do with the RF frequency given off from the ballast, and the fact that the probe cable is unshielded. Thanks for the comment 🙂
@@ElevatedAgriculture CMH uses a Square wave frequency ballast, Unlike HPS. That's why CMH won't screw with your electronics or cable tv. It's all in the frequency waves produced by the Ballast. Remember when electronic HPS ballast came on the scene?? The cable guys were running their ass's off trying to fix the screwd up signals! Until they realized it was growers causing all the Fuss with their ballast 🤣 Manufacturers scrambled to filter it out, And did for cable tv. But plenty of other frequencies are still emit from HPS ballast. 👌
What’s your opposition to the tolmaster? Seems to me like after buying a controller for my gavita humi dehu and fans I’m prettt much at the same or little less than a tolmaster with all the adapters needed
I started running mine under HPS and it worked fine. It's now under MH and still works fine. I HAVE THE XTRASUN Ballast that runs both mh and hps bulbs with a dial to select between 250, 400, 430, and 600 watts. Are you running air cooled hoods or open reflectors?
Idk if I can buy thiz I had a t6 with the probe stuck str8 in my 2 hps 1000watt light cooling duct line and it worked perfect. When light hit my set point it kicked on ok and kept my hps exhauzt in check alwayz and thatz with 2 1000watt inline.
That’s awesome to hear, a few people running HPS have said that it’s worked for them and other have had the same issue I’m having. I think it just depends on the ballast and bulb you’re using 🤷🏼♂️
A thermocoupler exposed to Infrared heat will warm up erroneously... so just like every other temp probe ever made, you shade it slightly with leaves (where the probe should be anyways) or put an aluminum foil shield over the top so it reads the air temp/rh, but not the heat from IR.
I tried shielding it with a bunch of things. Unfortunately the sensor doesn’t even work properly in a separate, completely dark tent in the same room as the HPS ballast. I believe it’s something to do with the RF frequency given off from the ballast, and the fact that the probe cable is unshielded. Thanks for the comment 🙂
good to know but if you take a lemon juice bottle (small) cut the bottom off and bore the hole slightly bigger to fit over the probe well its in the tent it should fix this issue as it would not be directly hit by the light
I’ve tried all the shielding fixes, and even had the same issue with the probe outside of the tent, completely out of any light. It’s a frequency issue with the ballast I believe.
Just curious may sound dumb …. But I have a ac infinity inline. I set it on auto mode. kinda worry the fan might burn out cause it’s constantly turning the fan on and off trying keep the humidity steady I guess. Just wondering wouldn’t that burn out the in-line fan ? Cause it’s constantly changing it’s fan speed
That information they gave you is not entirely accurate. I have their fan with the same controller. I am using a california lightworks solarsystem1100 and my fan controller malfunctions just the same as yours but I'm using an LED. I did find that if I unplug the sensor jack and re-connect it the display goes back to normal. Unfortunately with it doing that I now don't trust it.
I would still recommend the AC Infinity fans, just choose the right size for your tent and stick with the S series controller if you’re running MH/HPS. 🙂
If you are using LED lights and not HPS I absolutely recommend this fan as an extraction fan or an intake fan if you need one. Most of the time an intake fan isn’t necessary. 🙂
Put the thermostat in the shadows under the plant. you can't check the temp in the direct sunlight either. .. try it., but it won't tell you the temp at the top of the plant. So keep it cooler settings.
Just coming across your video tape in 2022. Was this a problem with the old style magnetic ballasts or was this a problem with the new digital ballasts? Hope you can answer this question even though I came late to the party.. As I have been thinking of either one of these or the Hyper fan V2.
Hey there 👋 I unfortunately had the problem with 2 different digital ballasts, one made by iPower and the other was from Vivosun. Many others have suggested shielding the cable/sensor probe, I tried but it did not work. I’ve since switched to LED and all my AC Infinity fans work great now. 🙂
@@ElevatedAgriculture Thank you for replying to my post. As I have a Lumatek digital ballast 250/400/600/660 And I am building a 10 cob build. The LEDs will be for summer and the HPS for winter. If there is no work around I think I will have to settle for the Hyper fan V2... Thanks again
My T4 is now giving me no temperature or humidity after about a minute of having the probe in, under my SP3000. I’m going to reach out to AC Infinity and see what they say 🤷🏼♂️
Hey, do you think it's the UV light emitted from those bulbs that's causing the malfunction? I plan on using LED's and a supplemental UV light (reptile light), do you think it would be ok?
I think you’re fine with the UV light! I’ve used it under my mars hydro SP3000 that has UV chips and I’ve had no issues. I believe it has to do with the ballast that runs my HPS bulb.
True, and if I could afford it I would have went LED- but at the time I couldn’t and for the price HPS was the best way to go. Also, I’m now growing in my garage in the winter, so the extra heat from the HPS is super helpful and means I don’t have to run a heater.
@@ElevatedAgriculture ignore these noobs mate, they have no idea. I run hps and led lights in 2 different tents. Hps for the tent outside in a shed where its cold in winter 👌 led for the tent inside
Because the hps are dinosaurs in the light game. All good things will come to its end eventually.... As soon as you said that it work fine outside of the tent. I asked what lights is he running? And ya answered it right then...lol. Have you checked out Niwa Grow Hubs? A must for your 3 minute piece in my opinion.
I think it has something to do with the heat the light produces. Haven’t had the pleasure of using any. Have used CFLs, or LED “Quantum Boards” I have heard though that HPS has a slightly different light intensity. Possibly some IR 🤔 unsure exactly. That in turn causes a higher heat temp (air and leaf surface) then what most people getting into LED lighting offers. LED has different lighting wavelengths. Also lower temps, usually 😅 Stay Frosty Growmies
I believe it’s something to do with the ballast and the unshielded probe wire, not necessarily the heat. I definitely like growing with the LED lights I have, the cooler temps make keeping a steady environment a bit easier for sure.
I tried shielding it with a bunch of things. Unfortunately the sensor doesn’t even work properly in a separate, completely dark tent in the same room as the HPS ballast.
I agree, when I asked AC Infinity why it hadn’t been added to the description on their website or Amazon listing the representative told me that it had been brought up to the marketing team but because it wasn’t happening to every single HPS grower (just happening more often than not) they didn’t want to add it. Not a great business practice in my opinion 🤷🏼♂️
Due to my land of prohibition i use hps during the winter as I'm growing in a loft/attic, during warmer temps i use 2x Grow 200 lights, so imo hps still has a "warm" place in my heart, and the fire risk isn't a risk if you're savvy. Anyway that aside, good info as i am about to buy a set of new fans for a bedroom tent which i plan on going to from the left, i need total control and this setup is what i am after. So my question is can i buy a T6 fan and connect a S4 fan? if i can then it saves me around 50 bucks...
Might be the ballasts causing electromagnetic interference? Or the IR from the HPS bulb? I know a guy who told me they were rubbish and they were always off when calibrated to handheld sensors. I had a look after he got a new fan and he hadn't taken the shipping protector thing off the sensor lol
I’m not sure what it is exactly, but it’s definitely only happening when the ballast and light are on. That’s hilarious that he forgot to take the shipping protector off though 🤣
Seems like a simple fix to create a small shade over the probe as heat rises and it would read the room not the light interference. Could have been a little more positive with a fix for it.
@@ElevatedAgriculture Fair enough. I am lucky I am running led then because I just got a t8 in the mail today and waiting on lights to kick on so I can install it.
Growing in my garage in the middle of winter in Canada, HPS produces lots of heat so no need to run a heater all the time, it actually saves electricity for me.
@@ElevatedAgriculture I use a mixture of an old-school purple vipar true 200w and a sf1000 in a 2 by 4 they both have over 600 ppfd at 12 inches, so they work nicely I also rotate my plants and grow multiple kinds, was thinking about making a RUclips but need a computer first 😁💚🤙🏼
This sounds like a shielding issue, likely some kind of inductance or RFI from the HPS. You can reduce this using shielding as needed. Route sensor cable away from power cables and ballasts.
good to know i was thinking if getting 2 of those and Im an HPS grower. thanx for the heads up.
No problem at all, I’m happy this video helped you out! 😀🤜
Yah I was gonna get 4 t12 hahah no bueno thanks for the heads up that would have been a shit show
I had this issue with my LED. My problem was caused because I ran the probe wire with all of my other wires for everything through the same hole in my tent! So I ran the fan and probe lines through the other side and have had no issues since!
I was running into the same issue in my 2x4 tent with an LED, this helped a lot! Thanks Chris 🙂
@@ElevatedAgriculture I have been showing 45 rh, but getting a few small patches of powdery mildew, which doesn't add up. All mycords are running thru the same hole. That's a good heads up! Thanks Chris and Elevated, I will be making that change today and see where my readings go from there!
Yea generally you want to run data and power cables apart from each other in any application.
ER noise can really mess with stuff
Cut a hole in the bottom of a solo cup & slice it in thirds. Take the bottom third with the hole
Put the probe through & it will now be mostly shaded with the cup from the hps
Might have too add a degree or two for the indirect temp reading but this should be a little solution.
If a cup is too big maybe just a 1x1 inch of cardboard above it too block the light as well
This is a really interesting idea, I’ll give it a try and report back later! 💡🤔😀
I tried this but had no luck unfortunately, thanks anyways though!
@@ElevatedAgriculture damn. Thanks for trying & the feedback. I use led so I didn't even know this was an issue.
I’m am SOOO glad I saw ur video. I was about to purchase the kit even opting for the 6 inch exhaust system in a 4x4 tent to handle the heat from my 600hps.. Not so sure now!
Hey brother, im using a digital ballast that can do both HPS and MH. To my understanding its the digital ballasts commonly used with HPS that is emitting some type of radio interference that throws the probe out of whack. I havent used the HPS light yet, but i was having similar symptoms with the MH. Apparantly also these digital ballasts can also mess up HAM radio operators signal. I made a cheap homemade faraday cage out of aluminim tape and a old shelf and shielded my ballast into a corner, and then i removed the probe from being cabled with the lights power cable to the ballast, and made sure the probe cable is far away as possible from ballast
Edit- i also put the controller unit in a metal box with a lid
Andrew has the most likely explanation. It's not the light emitted. It's the electromagnetic emissions outside of what we perceive as light that is causing interference with the electronics within the controller (susceptibility) or potentially via the long cable going to the probe (conducted radiation / conducted susceptibility). Think of the probe as though it were an antenna. It's receiving a bunch of noise from the noisy HPS.
Do you think it's the UV light emitted from those bulbs?
Shouldnt hps and mh lights have their own shielding so they don’t interfere with other equipment. I had to move my ham radio from the same room.
Apparently they should- I just wish that somebody told me this when I bought the stuff 😅
i had a similar issue when i started with the T6 when using an LED light but the cause was not the light but rather that i had the temp sensor cable and the power cable routed next to each other. as soon as i separated them, the readings straightened themselves out. Had the fan for 2 years now and love it.
Brooooo!!! I can't believe I stumbled onto your video by mistake!!! I literally just went through this with one fan. I thought I was getting true readings. Thank you.
Haha that's amazing, the RUclips algorithm gods were on your side! Glad this could help, cheers ✌️
me too
I wonder how cmh will do?
I've never, ever had any issue with any a.c. Infinity product....
Another issue: during low temps, the T-series fan will turn off instead of running at a low speed. AC Infinity has fixed the issue but it might not hit shelves for a while.
The S-series doesn't have this issue so if you cannot wait, buy the S-series fan and then add the Controller 67 separately.
mine does just the opposite. at low temp or low humidity the fan turns on.
@@williamupfold1616 it depends how you set the triggers
Very good to know! I’m just about to get the new Controller 67, hopefully I won’t run into this issue. Thanks 🙏
Weird, the probe for mine is accurate with HPS. The digital controller was a waste for me though since I run the fan at a constant speed 24/7.
That is weird, maybe certain brands of bulbs or types of ballasts affects them differently? I have mine running at a constant speed 24/7 now as well. Thanks for the comment! 🙂
Me too the digital version is not worth it if like me and him full speed all the time
Well send it to me! I have all cloudline s series fans and no controller. It sends it to someone you know who needed it
There is a work around!!! I ran into the exact same issue. Tried a ton of things and finally realized it is the sensor probe. Specifically, being an unshielded cable. Wrap the cable from the 1/8th inch input to the end of the probe. This will effectively shield the cable from the magnets in the ballast. Mine works all the time now.
I thought I had tried everything, but I have not tried this! I will ASAP and get back to you, I’m really hoping this works! Thank you 🙏
@@ElevatedAgriculture howd this end up going for you?
what did you wrap it in?
After watching the video this is what I thought also is there no way to shield the probe from the HPS light emitted ? All it needs to do is be able to read the relative humidity and temps right. Glad you guys are finding work arounds cause that would really suck! ;)
Have one being delivered tomorrow and just saw the video. Using HPS lights as well. What do you wrap the probe with?
Been using with my HPS lights and had no problem at all. Maybe the location is not ideal I don’t have the probe too close
It seems like it just depends on the setup, some work and some don’t 🤷🏼♂️ I have tried moving my probe all over the tent and no luck. Thanks for letting me know your experience 🙂
That’s honestly what I think the issue is
Can you control the fan speed via Bluetooth?
I have the new 67 controller and its actually amazing, connect to bluetooth aswell and Spider Famer LED Lights would be easier to maintain and would produce less heat then an hps light, but yea great video man
How did you hook up ac infinity to your spiderfarmer
@@rea1jyajlol he didn't. Just ran the info together....
Heat was the point there I'd I followed him correctly.
That’s awesome, I’m definitely going to pick up the Controller 67 after reading so many positive comments about it! Thanks for commenting 🤜🤜
Just got the se5000 from spider farmer and loving it, definitely an upgrade, previously I had been using 420w in a 2x4 by the time flower would end but now the 3x3 is able to flower the same amount of plants using over 100w less with better coverage and less heat. Should definitely be having some purple popping this run, definitely the mimosa evo and the ccc/goji
So the new controller works with hps or MH ?
Where do you put the temperature probe if you're not using it for plants? I just need it to push more air into a room that stays warm in my house.
Did you try wraping in aluminum foil???
I did not have any problems when I was using HPS. I ran through 2 grows with HPS and a T6. I am guessing a few more variables in play. I now have LED's and no problems. Good luck. The fans are amazing. I hope you can take full advantage of their features.
That’s strange, like you said it must be a few different variables at play in my scenario that’s causing the issue. I’ve started using a few LED lights and am able to use all the features of my T4 now, and I’ll be replacing my HPS with an LED next. Thanks for the comment! 🙂🤜
i can confirm, working for me too under HPS 400 w but its in a cool hood too so maybe thats creating a faraday cage or something. The power of the bulb itself deffo plays a role too
@@adivarso8175 thank you!!
Bullshit there are definitely other things causing your issue it has nothing to do with using hps lights
It was the HPS lights, confirmed by AC Infinity themselves.
i wonder if they fixed this with the pro 69 controller.
Im beyond happy with my controller after learning how to actually use it. Its confusing at first but works great.
No problem with mine mate
Good to hear, I wish I could say the same 😛
What hps do you have
I am using T4 and is the best fan I had used. There is no noise. My tent doesn't hear like a plane. The sensor and control are great.
Very nice, I’m loving the T4 in my 2x4’ tent with my Mars hydro LED light 🙂
@@ElevatedAgriculture would the T4 work for a 3x3 tent
Would the t4 work with a 3x3 tent?
What’s a good way to go for an HPS setup then?
SO.. How did you regulate temp? Some different product? Or did you kludge it..
Not anything you could do to shield from the lights?
Well why would you get state if the art fans with stone age lights?
Couldn't you just find a place to shadow the probe inside the tent where you could still get airflow for temp/humidity without direct light on the sensor?
I had issues with the probes and t6 controller also. Got it replaced and it just cut on and off
Since upgrading to LED lights I haven't had any issues, I'd suggest keeping the controller in case you switch to LED in the future 🙂
So the s cloud can plug into the t clouds thing? Yes or no?
Yessssir, the s-line fan can absolutely be plugged into and controlled by a T-series controller!
Why HPS and not full spec LEDs? Just curious.
Also is this hygrometer fairly accurate. Most in this price range aren’t. Thanks sir
Growing in my garage in the middle of winter in Canada, HPS produces lots of heat so no need to run a heater all the time, it actually saves electricity. I do find the hygrometer fairly accurate, and the Bluetooth function to the phone is great too!
Why do you like hps over leds? have you tried leds? i am using a es300 v2 led.
Originally I was growing in my garage in the middle of winter in Canada, HPS produces lots of heat so no need to run a heater all the time. I run LEDs in the summer and this winter I am going to use the Mars Hydro FC8000 (series coming soon!)
I run 6 of theses fans and have 0 problems since... Led is the way to go
Very nice!! What LED lights are you running?
@@ElevatedAgriculture sp 3000's MarsHydro
I just sheltered my probe from direct HPS light. Moved to LED recently anyway so not a problem anymore. Cool how we both ran into the same problem 🤣
Yeah I honestly don’t feel bad if someone hasn’t switched to led at this point.
I tried sheltering it and a bunch of other things, nothing worked for me. I’ll be switching to LED soon anyways 🤷🏼♂️😀
@@ElevatedAgriculture I went from a 600hps/MH various wattage and spectrums for different life stages. Now running an SF2000 & SF1000 LED. Difference is night an day. It’s taken years for me to make the move 😂 more importantly.. the controller 67 is a must have. You can’t maintain negative air pressure without it. It goes to 0 fan speed when the desired temp is reached. No bueno for stealthy ops
What happens if you shield it from the light?
I tried shielding it with a bunch of things. Unfortunately the sensor doesn’t even work properly in a separate, completely dark tent in the same room as the HPS ballast. I believe it’s something to do with the RF frequency given off from the ballast, and the fact that the probe cable is unshielded. Thanks for the comment 🙂
How cold can it go 2
It can work from 0-140° according to AC Infinity!
i have a t6 just now and a HPS setup and i dont have any trouble with it, was thinking to get the t12 soon for my 4x8
I knew they had a T8 but I honestly didn’t even know they had a 12! That’s awesome!
I have an 8 x 8 x 7 tent, the T6 I felt was an overkill
@@b.5815 Overkill..... It does not even do whats needed through cfm, its very close but not quite there.
have they found out a solution for this? im an hps man bought the t6 a while back and have yet been able to hook it up. glad i saw this would of threw me for a loop
What is that instrumental
My mars hydro tent is 100x100 i want the new digital set up ac infinity what the best one to get for my tent size anyone?
Can you clarify the size of your tent? What is the length, width and height in inches?
@@ElevatedAgriculture 100cm x 100cm and the hight is 180cm bro
How come I can't find this info any place else, I like this fan, I use HPS...
I couldn’t find this info either, that’s why I wanted to make a video to share what was happening.
My controller is weird.. the temp readings only go in increments of 2. So when I calibrate if I’m at an odd number say 73, my controller will only read 73-75-77-79 etc. if I calibrate on even I go in 2s on even numbers 72-74-76-78 etc. I don’t understand this at all to be honest.. I feel like the probes are very inaccurate.. I did email company and they sent me a brand new controller and probe for free instantly. GREAT company I have the T8 and an S4. Great build quality, but just still don’t trust the Rh or temp readings. More of a ball park I think..
I 100% agree, I think of the numbers as a ball park reading too! The build quality and customer service are unbeatable, I love my AC Infinity stuff 🙂
@@ElevatedAgriculture absolutely! I actually just picked up the AC infinity 8x4 grow tent a month or 2 ago, and OMG… AMAZING! Priced very similar to Mars hydro tents and tents in that price point, BUT the quality is OUTSTANDING! the poles are MASSIVE and so strong! I have 2 HLG 550s and a Chilled Growcraft x6 all hanging in there WITH an 8inch can filter. (Super heavy) and no issues at all.. can shake the tent no pole movements or swaying at all! Why by a gorilla tent when AC infinity just flipped the tent game upside down…. Cheap tents with amazing build quality super think canvas like way thicker then anything I’ve ran before, and again the poles are a lot bigger then other brands. IN LOVE
@@brianb2454 that is AMAZING to hear my friend! I am definitely going to be picking up a AC Infinity 3x3 tent to replace my current mars hydro 2.3x2.3. Thanks for all the info growmie 🤜🤜
Video starts at 2:00. Useful info at 3:00.
Awesome video! Please keep it coming!
Thank you so much, uploading a new video right now and I’m aiming to upload content more regularly now that I’ve moved and set up a permanent grow room 😁
So should be good with LED’s?
Absolutely! 🙂
I’m having the same problem with my led and the temp readings
Very weird that it’s happening with an LED. I would reach out to AC Infinity and let them know what’s going on, they have great customer service!
Love mine. And with the silence Mr my two run silently until about on 6 or 7 before I hear it working it's magic.
That’s awesome! I don’t have any silencers on mine, but I definitely want to look into some for when the fans kick on full blast.
Controller 67 is a must have with the T series EC fans. Just still a little salty I had to buy it separately…..
What exactly about that type of light causes the sensor to flip? I wonder if you'd solve the issue by shielding the temp and humidity sensor. Perhaps use an empty 1 qt white yogurt container. Make a hole on the bottom to insert the sensor. Place inside the tent, making sure no direct light and as little indirect light as possible reaches the sensor.
Radio waves
I tried shielding it with a bunch of things. Unfortunately the sensor doesn’t even work properly in a separate, completely dark tent in the same room as the HPS ballast. I believe it’s something to do with the RF frequency given off from the ballast, and the fact that the probe cable is unshielded. Thanks for the comment 🙂
So glad I found ur channel. I was about to buy one 👍
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I would definitely be interested in giving it a try, let’s talk more! 🙂
Make a shade for the probe, easy to do and should sort the problem
I tried shielding it with a bunch of things. Unfortunately the sensor doesn’t even work properly in a separate, completely dark tent in the same room as the HPS ballast. I believe it’s something to do with the RF frequency given off from the ballast, and the fact that the probe cable is unshielded. Thanks for the comment 🙂
Is it necessary/ do you recommend having both T & S combo?
It is absolutely not necessary or recommended, I just wanted to try both out.
Thoughts on there Tents ?
I like them, but I’d like to compare them to the AC Infinity tents. So far, 7 months of use and abuse on these tents and they’re holding up great!
How could it do that ?
I believe it has to do with the magnetic output of the HPS ballast interfering with the unshielded probe cable, but I’m not 100% sure.
Will it work with cmh ?
Oddly enough, it worked most of the time with my CMH, it was really just the HPS bulb that messed with it.
@@ElevatedAgriculture CMH uses a Square wave frequency ballast, Unlike HPS. That's why CMH won't screw with your electronics or cable tv. It's all in the frequency waves produced by the Ballast. Remember when electronic HPS ballast came on the scene?? The cable guys were running their ass's off trying to fix the screwd up signals! Until they realized it was growers causing all the Fuss with their ballast 🤣 Manufacturers scrambled to filter it out, And did for cable tv. But plenty of other frequencies are still emit from HPS ballast. 👌
What’s your opposition to the tolmaster? Seems to me like after buying a controller for my gavita humi dehu and fans I’m prettt much at the same or little less than a tolmaster with all the adapters needed
I started running mine under HPS and it worked fine. It's now under MH and still works fine.
I HAVE THE XTRASUN Ballast that runs both mh and hps bulbs with a dial to select between 250, 400, 430, and 600 watts.
Are you running air cooled hoods or open reflectors?
That’s good to hear that it’s working for you! I’m using a vivosun ballast that is also adjustable and runs MH/HPS, and air cooled hoods.
Me: watching this right after my T6 arrived
Is working great with my Spider Farmers SE5000
That’s awesome! I’ve heard great things about that light!
Idk if I can buy thiz I had a t6 with the probe stuck str8 in my 2 hps 1000watt light cooling duct line and it worked perfect. When light hit my set point it kicked on ok and kept my hps exhauzt in check alwayz and thatz with 2 1000watt inline.
That’s awesome to hear, a few people running HPS have said that it’s worked for them and other have had the same issue I’m having. I think it just depends on the ballast and bulb you’re using 🤷🏼♂️
A thermocoupler exposed to Infrared heat will warm up erroneously... so just like every other temp probe ever made, you shade it slightly with leaves (where the probe should be anyways) or put an aluminum foil shield over the top so it reads the air temp/rh, but not the heat from IR.
I tried shielding it with a bunch of things. Unfortunately the sensor doesn’t even work properly in a separate, completely dark tent in the same room as the HPS ballast. I believe it’s something to do with the RF frequency given off from the ballast, and the fact that the probe cable is unshielded. Thanks for the comment 🙂
so go to LED?
I did, but that’s not the point of the video. They should advertise up-front that these are incompatible with most HPS systems.
good to know but if you take a lemon juice bottle (small) cut the bottom off and bore the hole slightly bigger to fit over the probe well its in the tent it should fix this issue
as it would not be directly hit by the light
I’ve tried all the shielding fixes, and even had the same issue with the probe outside of the tent, completely out of any light. It’s a frequency issue with the ballast I believe.
Just curious may sound dumb …. But I have a ac infinity inline. I set it on auto mode. kinda worry the fan might burn out cause it’s constantly turning the fan on and off trying keep the humidity steady I guess. Just wondering wouldn’t that burn out the in-line fan ? Cause it’s constantly changing it’s fan speed
That information they gave you is not entirely accurate. I have their fan with the same controller. I am using a california lightworks solarsystem1100 and my fan controller malfunctions just the same as yours but I'm using an LED. I did find that if I unplug the sensor jack and re-connect it the display goes back to normal. Unfortunately with it doing that I now don't trust it.
What’s a good inline fan to for my tent
I would still recommend the AC Infinity fans, just choose the right size for your tent and stick with the S series controller if you’re running MH/HPS. 🙂
do you reckon I shud use one of these as an extractor fan or as an intake fan? or both lol
If you are using LED lights and not HPS I absolutely recommend this fan as an extraction fan or an intake fan if you need one. Most of the time an intake fan isn’t necessary. 🙂
Put the thermostat in the shadows under the plant. you can't check the temp in the direct sunlight either. .. try it., but it won't tell you the temp at the top of the plant. So keep it cooler settings.
Just coming across your video tape in 2022. Was this a problem with the old style magnetic ballasts or was this a problem with the new digital ballasts? Hope you can answer this question even though I came late to the party..
As I have been thinking of either one of these or the Hyper fan V2.
Hey there 👋
I unfortunately had the problem with 2 different digital ballasts, one made by iPower and the other was from Vivosun. Many others have suggested shielding the cable/sensor probe, I tried but it did not work. I’ve since switched to LED and all my AC Infinity fans work great now. 🙂
@@ElevatedAgriculture
Thank you for replying to my post. As I have a Lumatek digital ballast 250/400/600/660
And I am building a 10 cob build. The LEDs will be for summer and the HPS for winter. If there is no work around I think I will have to settle for the Hyper fan V2...
Thanks again
So my T4 just did this, but only for a second. I don't have HPS. I have 2 TSW200s in a 3x3 which is a lot of heat.
My T4 is now giving me no temperature or humidity after about a minute of having the probe in, under my SP3000. I’m going to reach out to AC Infinity and see what they say 🤷🏼♂️
You have subscribed. Excellent explanation. I wish you success. Keep it up
Thank you so much- new video being uploaded right now and I’m aiming to start releasing regular content now that my new grow room is set up! 😎🤜
Oh man I just bought one let’s hear the bad news
Lol
Well I run LED I’m lucky
Hopefully you’re not growing with an HPS bulb 😅
HPS can release RFI (Radio frequency interference)
Thanks for the info!
Hey, do you think it's the UV light emitted from those bulbs that's causing the malfunction? I plan on using LED's and a supplemental UV light (reptile light), do you think it would be ok?
I think you’re fine with the UV light! I’ve used it under my mars hydro SP3000 that has UV chips and I’ve had no issues. I believe it has to do with the ballast that runs my HPS bulb.
Should have spent money on led lights and you’d be golden haha
Haha who uses hps these days!? Noob! 🤣🤣🤣
Why you say use led?
True, and if I could afford it I would have went LED- but at the time I couldn’t and for the price HPS was the best way to go. Also, I’m now growing in my garage in the winter, so the extra heat from the HPS is super helpful and means I don’t have to run a heater.
@@ElevatedAgriculture ignore these noobs mate, they have no idea. I run hps and led lights in 2 different tents. Hps for the tent outside in a shed where its cold in winter 👌 led for the tent inside
@@remainanonymous2016 That doesn't mean noob. It means old tech.
Do a vid on cloudline t8 inline fan im so confused
Because the hps are dinosaurs in the light game. All good things will come to its end eventually....
As soon as you said that it work fine outside of the tent. I asked what lights is he running? And ya answered it right then...lol.
Have you checked out Niwa Grow Hubs? A must for your 3 minute piece in my opinion.
They definitely are dinosaurs! 😅 I haven’t heard of these grow hubs, but I’ll definitely check them out! Thanks for letting me know 🤜
I think it has something to do with the heat the light produces. Haven’t had the pleasure of using any. Have used CFLs, or LED “Quantum Boards” I have heard though that HPS has a slightly different light intensity. Possibly some IR 🤔 unsure exactly. That in turn causes a higher heat temp (air and leaf surface) then what most people getting into LED lighting offers. LED has different lighting wavelengths. Also lower temps, usually 😅 Stay Frosty Growmies
I believe it’s something to do with the ballast and the unshielded probe wire, not necessarily the heat. I definitely like growing with the LED lights I have, the cooler temps make keeping a steady environment a bit easier for sure.
Good info. I think they should warn buyers of this potential problem...I have an S8 and absolutely love it. Best fan I've ever owned.
I wish they warned people, but like you said they are such great fans and it’s hard to be mad when they have such good customer service!
Well... if you provide additional controllers .. for temp and humidity... the fan will run just fine
That beat score is fire bro 💥🔥
Is that your beat ?
Agreeeeed! I found all my tracks on Epidemic Sound, and they have some really 🔥 tracks! Thanks for the comment 😁
HPS Grow Light is "High Pressure Sodium".
i'm not a grower, but couldn't you shield the probe from the HPS light? like a card board tube or something?
Was thinking the same thing
I tried shielding it with a bunch of things. Unfortunately the sensor doesn’t even work properly in a separate, completely dark tent in the same room as the HPS ballast.
Why would you even go with a light that has significantly more of a fire risk than an led
AC Infiniti should warn people about that problem!
I agree, when I asked AC Infinity why it hadn’t been added to the description on their website or Amazon listing the representative told me that it had been brought up to the marketing team but because it wasn’t happening to every single HPS grower (just happening more often than not) they didn’t want to add it. Not a great business practice in my opinion 🤷🏼♂️
Due to my land of prohibition i use hps during the winter as I'm growing in a loft/attic, during warmer temps i use 2x Grow 200 lights, so imo hps still has a "warm" place in my heart, and the fire risk isn't a risk if you're savvy. Anyway that aside, good info as i am about to buy a set of new fans for a bedroom tent which i plan on going to from the left, i need total control and this setup is what i am after. So my question is can i buy a T6 fan and connect a S4 fan? if i can then it saves me around 50 bucks...
Might be the ballasts causing electromagnetic interference? Or the IR from the HPS bulb?
I know a guy who told me they were rubbish and they were always off when calibrated to handheld sensors. I had a look after he got a new fan and he hadn't taken the shipping protector thing off the sensor lol
I’m not sure what it is exactly, but it’s definitely only happening when the ballast and light are on. That’s hilarious that he forgot to take the shipping protector off though 🤣
Seems like a simple fix to create a small shade over the probe as heat rises and it would read the room not the light interference. Could have been a little more positive with a fix for it.
I tried this and several other things, nothing helped unfortunately. 👎
@@ElevatedAgriculture Fair enough. I am lucky I am running led then because I just got a t8 in the mail today and waiting on lights to kick on so I can install it.
Forget the 3 minutes... the time seems juuuuuust right. To the second.
phew, doesn't apply to me cause i got LED. lol i was worried about this just bought T6 2 days ago
Haha I’m glad to hear, hopefully it’s been working well!
VIVOHOME 4 Inch 195CFM Plastic Round Exhaust Inline Duct Fan are the same kinda fan but ive had mine for 3 years and paif $29 each from amazon .
Old school HPs ballists (analog) are fine with t6 digital control it’s the microwaves being admitted from the new school digital ballists .
That makes sense, both of the ballasts I tried were the newer style digital ballasts! ✌️
Nice! I like it.
Liked & subbed
Thank you so much, I appreciate it! 🤜🤜
Wow you think that would be clearly advertised upfront
I also like how the fancy controller will break before the fan
Why would anyone want to use high pressure sodium lights when LEDs work just as good for half the wattage
Growing in my garage in the middle of winter in Canada, HPS produces lots of heat so no need to run a heater all the time, it actually saves electricity for me.
I used to get the same prolem with some inkbird products, now I know what the problem was 👍
Interesting, and my Inkbird probe works absolutely fine right beside the AC Infinity probe. So weird 🤷🏼♂️ thanks for the comment 🙂
Bro can you explain further I am having some interference issues with my controllers
Glad I use LED and my shit be on set and forget 😁
Niiiice! Which LED are you using? 🤜
@@ElevatedAgriculture I use a mixture of an old-school purple vipar true 200w and a sf1000 in a 2 by 4 they both have over 600 ppfd at 12 inches, so they work nicely I also rotate my plants and grow multiple kinds, was thinking about making a RUclips but need a computer first 😁💚🤙🏼
Love my ac infinity fans
Me too, I have 3 of them now and besides this one small issue they are great!
This sounds like a shielding issue, likely some kind of inductance or RFI from the HPS. You can reduce this using shielding as needed. Route sensor cable away from power cables and ballasts.
Time to upgrade your lights!!!✌💚🔥
Definitely looking to upgrade to LED for my summertime indoor growing, but I like the heat the HPS gives off in the winter… for now. 😀
So glad I went LED
I’m so much happier with my grows Singh I’ve made the switch 🙌🏼