amazing , very help full and informative , ive been gaining for 15 years ,most gainers here in the uk dont reveal all the secrets ,thanks guys nice to see some real artisans,
+harry carr , thank you so much for your comment! Much appreciated. I'm kind of mind that there are no secrets when you care about evolving your craft. I want traditional decorative painting to always be alive and well, therefore I share what mentors have taught me. I am also on the side that nobody is taking work away from me by knowing what I teach. If I'm doing my job properly, a fair and happy person, and treat my clients well, I will always have work. If somebody gets a job over me, I'd shake his or her hand, because he or she probably deserved it...and I'll start working harder, because I didn't try hard enough. Just my thoughts.
Wow! your are in a league of your own. I painted movie sets for over 11 years and often did wood graining but the 3 dimensional stuff was done by scenic artists the guys that painted the backings that are placed behind window and doors of a set so it looks like you are in the real world. A lot of that work is done with a photographic process nowadays but it is cool to see someone who can still do that work and you do it very well.
Thank you so much for your comment. I do like working alone, but that's as far as the league goes, because talent is vast on this planet and much more than I, my friend. Your compliment made me feel good, so I really thank you for the boost! I have helped a couple of friends on a movie set before, and it's a quite a different environment. Firstly, the pace and the trickery is amazing. There's no time to think, really. It's just 'do.' I really give props to all scenic artists and set painters. It's not easy work. I can see how the world of photography and cheap printing would lead to less need of painters, and that's just too bad. I'm sure you have a lot of experience, and would always welcome a chat about what life is like painting sets. Again, thanks for your awesome comment. Cheers.
When I first started this trade 13 years ago, my mentor made me tape, sand, and wash his brushes for 2 years before allowing me to hold a brush and showing me how to do it. I have come to realize that his (stolen) philosophy, "95% practice - 5% talent," is actually quite accurate. Like most things, it just takes practice and time, and hopefully those that have put in time into their trade can use any info I share and apply to his / her art. That would be cool. Cheers, mate!
Nic Resio Thank you, Nic! I have another video on my channel that gives a more in-depth step-by-step of some basic woodgraining techniques, if you are interested. I very much appreciate you taking the time to watch this one, in the very least ;). Cheers!
I’m sure I’ve watched this awesome well done video at least 100 times. Have you done a series Jeff? When are you gonna post some more stuff? I’m sure you’re busy like me but I’m sure I’m not alone in saying I would buy a video series like on that mahogany panel you did to show a client.
Thanks, Michael, for your kind comment and question. I stopped doing these kinds of videos once we had our second kid. Now it seems like work flies by and need to pick up the kids from school, do their homework, dinner, and bedtime routine just eats up the day. I have an Instagram account where I post stuff I do. It's about all I can manage. I would love to do more, but as you said, gotta figure out the 'busy.' I'll keep you updated...maybe when the kids start not caring about me and want their space ;). Take good care. By the way, I wouldn't want to sell a product...I'd put here on RUclips for free ;)
That looks amazing. l'm looking to create a design which resembles the look of an old cottage door with wrought iron hardware. l've never tackled anything like this before, and l must say l'm already overwhelmed just thinking about it.
+CrashN2Me1000 thanks for your comment, and I apologize I missed this and didn't write sooner. These are both great finishes to combine. You can paint all of it! There is paint by Modern Masters that will allow you to make rusted iron. You have to use their primer and their iron paint, and then their rusted salts, but it looks great. I have done this combination in a canvas painting of an old boxcar. I love the combo! Good luck!
Hi Jeff, I am curious how you would this technique for a repair of a tabletop like red cherry. I have been in that situation multiple times (dent that required me to sand through the color in the middle of the top (6x6 inch area)and have to match the existing finish around the repair) and it would be cool to see how you approach that type of concealment.
Matt Vredenburg Hi Matt, excellent question. The short: entirely different beast. When woodgraining, marbleizing, etc. a whole surface, whether a door or a tabletop, you can maintain an evenly coated, evenly textured, evenly finished surface, correct? Everything is in balance. When you have a repair or touchup to match an actual substrate like cherry, walnut, whatever, you’re actually painting bondo or plaster or similar patching compound to the natural substrate. The bottom line is communication with a client, designer, or contractor has to be clear and fully understood that there’s no magic involved. I do it all the time. It becomes a balancing act of clear communication and decisions you leave in their court. A 6x6” repair is big! You have to be honest with yourself that there’s no way you can match everything 100%. Wood has a lot of depth. You know this because you know how a tree grows...think how stains work...they penetrate the layers of the tree to bring out features from underneath. However, patching compound is opaque, without depth, without the aging of a tree, and is what it is. So no matter how many layers of paint or finish you lay on top and how perfect you are, most likely it will look off from a certain angle. People need to be reasonable, no matter how good you are in your skill. Your brush can’t recreate the original tree to perfection ;). If you look at a repair on a table from a micro cross-section, there is a damage done to the surface. Most likely removed some of the wood layer. Your touchup starts below the plane of the finished tabletop, and with patching compound, like bondo, you have to be precise on building back up the layers, but leaving enough depth to add paint or dyes or lacquer and then finish coats. It’s extremely difficult. At the end of it all, adding a unifying sheen to the whole table is the best...so spraying additional coats on top would be best. However, it is equally possible for a topcoat to change the color of your touchup or the color of the natural wood...so there’s always a possibility it will end in disappointment. It takes a lot of practice, but even then, all woods or substrates behave differently. Trust your communication mostly. Never guarantee perfection. You can say you’re able to make it look nicer that it does damaged ;). Hope that helps
Matt Vredenburg Also, I have found that starting off white, is a major problem. It is best to tint your patching compound, like Bondo, with Mixol tints as closely to the LIGHTEST part of the wood you’re matching. It is also good to use dyes or lacquer and pigment for graining. This also takes some practice to get used to how different it is from paint or glazes, which sit on top of the surface, rather than penetrate.
@@JeffPollastro I am doing more and more research and practicing so I can up my game when repairing furniture. Repairs and color matching is straight forward when on the side or where I have to make a new part (stains/powders/dyes/toners/shellac/lacquer). Your video really made me think about how much I could help my customers more leveling-up my glazing/graining techniques. I guess it's time to get some sample boards and start practicing. Stripping and refinishing the entire tabletop would be a better fit in most cases, however, due to time and budget, it's not always an option.
@@JeffPollastro You are spot on regarding communication. I have learned and continue to learn daily different ways to explain to customers that we are hiding/camouflaging a furniture repair not making it look new. If it looks new, that's a bonus.
@Grzegorz, thank you, my friend. Your compliments are always so kind. @mushtaq, the colors are subjective. I don't say which colors I used, because it is in reference to the object I matched. Perhaps you want to match a mahogany door, or oak. Well, the colors will be different from the wood in this video. The best way to figure out the colors needed to match a given object, is to make samples and match the object. Switch cover plates on wood or stone is always a great way to learn color.
...but to continue that thought, woodgraining usually contains the earth tones - raw sienna, burnt umber, raw umber, burnt sienna, yellow ochre - and may contain white or black. Mahogany and cherry can have deeper reds, so alizarine crimson can be used...walnuts have a greenish hue, so throw in chromium green oxide. For the shadows and highlights in the trompe l'oeil, the colors take on that specific wood color. For acrylics, I only use Golden Artist Colors. For oil, I prefer Sennelier.
@POTIONRECORDINGS, thanks for your comment. I don't mind sharing the work I have created for clients with step-by-step, and I certainly don't consider myself a master by any stretch of the imagination. I hope people get inspired and are able to create much better work than I can ever do. I just have fun making the vids, mate. Cheers for watchin!
daniel challenger Thank you for your questions and compliment. It is indeed a flat elevator door. The technique is called 'trompe l'oeil' which means 'deceive the eye' in French. This is a very basic idea of architectural trompe l'oeil. Many classic artists used the technique to paint landscapes and illusions - to realize 3-dimensional space on a 2-dimensional surface.
looks incredible. im doing my apprenticeship at the moment and well be doing some wood graining and other paint effects while im on the courses but have never seen it actually being done. most painting here is get in get out after all the earthquke work in christchurch came up
omg....I enjoy painting but I do not think I could ever do this...this is truly amazing work...just wow.
amazing , very help full and informative , ive been gaining for 15 years ,most gainers here in the uk dont reveal all the secrets ,thanks guys nice to see some real artisans,
+harry carr , thank you so much for your comment! Much appreciated. I'm kind of mind that there are no secrets when you care about evolving your craft. I want traditional decorative painting to always be alive and well, therefore I share what mentors have taught me. I am also on the side that nobody is taking work away from me by knowing what I teach. If I'm doing my job properly, a fair and happy person, and treat my clients well, I will always have work. If somebody gets a job over me, I'd shake his or her hand, because he or she probably deserved it...and I'll start working harder, because I didn't try hard enough. Just my thoughts.
Wow! your are in a league of your own. I painted movie sets for over 11 years and often did wood graining but the 3 dimensional stuff was done by scenic artists the guys that painted the backings that are placed behind window and doors of a set so it looks like you are in the real world. A lot of that work is done with a photographic process nowadays but it is cool to see someone who can still do that work and you do it very well.
Thank you so much for your comment. I do like working alone, but that's as far as the league goes, because talent is vast on this planet and much more than I, my friend. Your compliment made me feel good, so I really thank you for the boost! I have helped a couple of friends on a movie set before, and it's a quite a different environment. Firstly, the pace and the trickery is amazing. There's no time to think, really. It's just 'do.' I really give props to all scenic artists and set painters. It's not easy work. I can see how the world of photography and cheap printing would lead to less need of painters, and that's just too bad. I'm sure you have a lot of experience, and would always welcome a chat about what life is like painting sets. Again, thanks for your awesome comment. Cheers.
Knowing how to do it is one thing. Actually having the talent to do it is another!
When I first started this trade 13 years ago, my mentor made me tape, sand, and wash his brushes for 2 years before allowing me to hold a brush and showing me how to do it. I have come to realize that his (stolen) philosophy, "95% practice - 5% talent," is actually quite accurate. Like most things, it just takes practice and time, and hopefully those that have put in time into their trade can use any info I share and apply to his / her art. That would be cool. Cheers, mate!
Ill be watching this again and again as I work on wood grain
Nic Resio Thank you, Nic! I have another video on my channel that gives a more in-depth step-by-step of some basic woodgraining techniques, if you are interested. I very much appreciate you taking the time to watch this one, in the very least ;). Cheers!
I just love it... You guys are awesome. I'll definately use your tips for faux wood paintins. Best regards from Poland, greg
Great work guys , really enjoyed watching the video
Cheers, Jeremy. Thanks for taking the time to watch and sending your compliment. Very much appreciated. Thanks!
Ryan is Intense Love the Math Knowledge
Human Being hey buddy, thanks for all your comments on my videos. Glad you enjoy!
When I was a kid my dad used to have our garage doors grain painted. I'm seventy and English. You don't see it so often these days.
Great work!
That's amazing 👏
I’m sure I’ve watched this awesome well done video at least 100 times. Have you done a series Jeff? When are you gonna post some more stuff? I’m sure you’re busy like me but I’m sure I’m not alone in saying I would buy a video series like on that mahogany panel you did to show a client.
Thanks, Michael, for your kind comment and question. I stopped doing these kinds of videos once we had our second kid. Now it seems like work flies by and need to pick up the kids from school, do their homework, dinner, and bedtime routine just eats up the day. I have an Instagram account where I post stuff I do. It's about all I can manage. I would love to do more, but as you said, gotta figure out the 'busy.' I'll keep you updated...maybe when the kids start not caring about me and want their space ;). Take good care. By the way, I wouldn't want to sell a product...I'd put here on RUclips for free ;)
Excellent work
great work!
Unbe-fricking-livable!!!!!!
please do more on the moulding, cheers
Very impressive!
Thank you, Michael! Glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
Very impressive. Thanks.
That looks amazing. l'm looking to create a design which resembles the look of an old cottage door with wrought iron hardware. l've never tackled anything like this before, and l must say l'm already overwhelmed just thinking about it.
+CrashN2Me1000 thanks for your comment, and I apologize I missed this and didn't write sooner. These are both great finishes to combine. You can paint all of it! There is paint by Modern Masters that will allow you to make rusted iron. You have to use their primer and their iron paint, and then their rusted salts, but it looks great. I have done this combination in a canvas painting of an old boxcar. I love the combo! Good luck!
Hi Jeff, I am curious how you would this technique for a repair of a tabletop like red cherry. I have been in that situation multiple times (dent that required me to sand through the color in the middle of the top (6x6 inch area)and have to match the existing finish around the repair) and it would be cool to see how you approach that type of concealment.
Matt Vredenburg Hi Matt, excellent question. The short: entirely different beast. When woodgraining, marbleizing, etc. a whole surface, whether a door or a tabletop, you can maintain an evenly coated, evenly textured, evenly finished surface, correct? Everything is in balance. When you have a repair or touchup to match an actual substrate like cherry, walnut, whatever, you’re actually painting bondo or plaster or similar patching compound to the natural substrate. The bottom line is communication with a client, designer, or contractor has to be clear and fully understood that there’s no magic involved. I do it all the time. It becomes a balancing act of clear communication and decisions you leave in their court. A 6x6” repair is big! You have to be honest with yourself that there’s no way you can match everything 100%. Wood has a lot of depth. You know this because you know how a tree grows...think how stains work...they penetrate the layers of the tree to bring out features from underneath. However, patching compound is opaque, without depth, without the aging of a tree, and is what it is. So no matter how many layers of paint or finish you lay on top and how perfect you are, most likely it will look off from a certain angle. People need to be reasonable, no matter how good you are in your skill. Your brush can’t recreate the original tree to perfection ;). If you look at a repair on a table from a micro cross-section, there is a damage done to the surface. Most likely removed some of the wood layer. Your touchup starts below the plane of the finished tabletop, and with patching compound, like bondo, you have to be precise on building back up the layers, but leaving enough depth to add paint or dyes or lacquer and then finish coats. It’s extremely difficult. At the end of it all, adding a unifying sheen to the whole table is the best...so spraying additional coats on top would be best. However, it is equally possible for a topcoat to change the color of your touchup or the color of the natural wood...so there’s always a possibility it will end in disappointment. It takes a lot of practice, but even then, all woods or substrates behave differently. Trust your communication mostly. Never guarantee perfection. You can say you’re able to make it look nicer that it does damaged ;). Hope that helps
Matt Vredenburg Also, I have found that starting off white, is a major problem. It is best to tint your patching compound, like Bondo, with Mixol tints as closely to the LIGHTEST part of the wood you’re matching. It is also good to use dyes or lacquer and pigment for graining. This also takes some practice to get used to how different it is from paint or glazes, which sit on top of the surface, rather than penetrate.
@@JeffPollastro I am doing more and more research and practicing so I can up my game when repairing furniture. Repairs and color matching is straight forward when on the side or where I have to make a new part (stains/powders/dyes/toners/shellac/lacquer). Your video really made me think about how much I could help my customers more leveling-up my glazing/graining techniques. I guess it's time to get some sample boards and start practicing. Stripping and refinishing the entire tabletop would be a better fit in most cases, however, due to time and budget, it's not always an option.
@@JeffPollastro You are spot on regarding communication. I have learned and continue to learn daily different ways to explain to customers that we are hiding/camouflaging a furniture repair not making it look new. If it looks new, that's a bonus.
@Grzegorz, thank you, my friend. Your compliments are always so kind.
@mushtaq, the colors are subjective. I don't say which colors I used, because it is in reference to the object I matched. Perhaps you want to match a mahogany door, or oak. Well, the colors will be different from the wood in this video. The best way to figure out the colors needed to match a given object, is to make samples and match the object. Switch cover plates on wood or stone is always a great way to learn color.
Exellent
Thank you for your compliments, @Offshoreorganbuilder. Also, thanks for taking the time to watch the video. Much appreciated.
...but to continue that thought, woodgraining usually contains the earth tones - raw sienna, burnt umber, raw umber, burnt sienna, yellow ochre - and may contain white or black. Mahogany and cherry can have deeper reds, so alizarine crimson can be used...walnuts have a greenish hue, so throw in chromium green oxide. For the shadows and highlights in the trompe l'oeil, the colors take on that specific wood color. For acrylics, I only use Golden Artist Colors. For oil, I prefer Sennelier.
👏👏👏👏wow
thank you for the upload. what are the colors and the name and where do we find them. Can I try this on a white board or drywall?Appreciate your help
@POTIONRECORDINGS, thanks for your comment. I don't mind sharing the work I have created for clients with step-by-step, and I certainly don't consider myself a master by any stretch of the imagination. I hope people get inspired and are able to create much better work than I can ever do. I just have fun making the vids, mate. Cheers for watchin!
is the door flat? looked flat when u put your hand on it? if it is im blown away ahha
daniel challenger Thank you for your questions and compliment. It is indeed a flat elevator door. The technique is called 'trompe l'oeil' which means 'deceive the eye' in French. This is a very basic idea of architectural trompe l'oeil. Many classic artists used the technique to paint landscapes and illusions - to realize 3-dimensional space on a 2-dimensional surface.
looks incredible. im doing my apprenticeship at the moment and well be doing some wood graining and other paint effects while im on the courses but have never seen it actually being done. most painting here is get in get out after all the earthquke work in christchurch came up
wow