I've always used the old fashioned HOTTAS method for testing coils. This requires a gulible, trusting assistant (sucker). You say to the assistant, "Hold On To This A Second" and hand them the end of the HT lead. You then trip the coil and judge the state of the coil from thier reaction: No reaction = dead coil or brain dead assistant. "Ow!!" = weak coil. "You bastard!!" with a jerking or jumping action = coil OK. Assistant leap into the air, lays on floor twitching = high output racing coil. This test is totally safe to the tester as only the assistant suffers.Note that this also works with magnetos.
Pony Power I caught my younger brother out twice on the same day whilst sorting the ignition out of his GT380M back in 1988.I told my son about this event last year and whilst we were workingon my son's ignition in the drive, my brother turns up and asks, "Can I help??" to which I replied, "Sure..... hold on to this a second.....", and just as he was about to my son started to laugh and my brother started to have flashbacks to the GT380M incident back in 1988.If you can try to catch your assistant performing a HOTTAS test on camera and post it on U-Tube (or You've Been Framed!!).
Been caught like that before. Do is a favour youngen, pass us that coil of the bench! It must have been a racing coil by your scale because I do believe I shit myself. Hahaha chasing things round the bench with a screwdriver after that.
It doesn't look electrical, but leaks in pipes, wrong air petrol mixture can give these problems.........hopefully the next videos will give us the solution.......exciting moments...the fact that it runs on both cylinders once past tickover could be significant......nice idea for a competition.......roy
ROY Dean My thought exactly, just wanted to show others how to narrow down the problem until you have negated everything else. Yeah the idle to main jet was a dead give away. - cheers for the comment - matt
Hi mate great vids just bought a er5 and having same issues as you with running on 1 cylinder at idle , iv gone through all your vids with a tooth come to find out what the issue was and can only assume it was pilot jet which u mentioned in a comment did this sort the issue mate ? Thanks in advance
I was going to suggest doing a vacuum test, like during carb balancing. When you removed the carbs, it appears the rubber bung is missing from the fitting on the right hand carb. (where a vacuum gauge would be connected.) At 13:42 on the video. Is it the right hand cylinder that is dead? That would be a definite leak!
BooCooDaBreeze No thats the line I remove at 12:37. The line is the vacuum line that runs to the fuel tap to open the diaphram. The other matching hole on the left hand carb is still in place. thanks for the comment - matt
+fps103 The 2 clear hoses run from the tank to the fuel tap. 1 is the main fuel line and the second is the reserve line, otherwise fuel pisses out of the tank/tap
How did you go with this issue? My ER-5 is doing the same, running on one cylinder until you rev it up high the other cylinder kicks back in, sounds like the left cylinder is to blame. I inspected the carbs, cleaned the main jet, float bowls, but didnt take the whole thing apart since it didnt look too dirty. Any advice
The issue is the pilot jet is blocked. This jet supplies fuel to the engine when at idle, it keeps supplying the cylinder until around 3000 rpm then the main jet kicks in. One thing about carbs and a mistake that many (including me) have made is 'it looks clean'. The holes in the jets are tiny and all it takes is loose crap in the carb to then find its way back into the jet. A good idea is to boil (in water) your carb and then when putting back together do it indoors and wear gloves. Hope this helps - matt
Hi! Does anybody knows if the spark plug wires for the ER5 are replaceable? It appears to be so but when trying to the twist off the thing that seems to be the lock nut near the coil, it doesn't rotate. I don't want to foce it.. yet.. so waiting for your replies. thanks!
@@dirtygarageguy thanks for your fast reply! Is that some sort of lock nut or does the wire needs be screwed in the coil? (same as the spark plug cap screws into the wire?)
+anthony hyatt sorry for the late reply, sounds like your side stand swtich is knackered. This cuts the engine when shifting into gear. Its to stop you riding off with the stand out
+anthony hyatt sorry for the late reply, sounds like your side stand swtich is knackered. This cuts the engine when shifting into gear. Its to stop you riding off with the stand out
hi love the vids I've just bought an er5 to strip down . before i do i need to get it running i have no spark replaced coils and plugs. i have a question for you though if you don't mind. i have 12v at both terminals at all times and i don't think its write. can you tell me if yours did please
You still have the coil connected to the battery? The circuit runs from the input to the end of the HT lead, that is the path running throught the coil pair. Secondly to test the coils you need to measure resistance If your having trouble with ignition have to got the correct spark gap and do you have any spark at all?
the ignition coils are grounded by the starter button and engine stop switch. The fact they you can start the bike and I prosume stop the engine means they're ok. The only other 2 things in the system is the pick-up coil which you can test and the IC, which is abit more complicated but you can test. Do you have the workshop manual? If you stick a multimeter across both terminals then you won't see more than 12V, thats the primary winding, what were you expecting to see?
I'm watching these vids just out of interest and notice how everything's crammed into a tiny space - must be a nightmare if you big hands. I bet even getting the plugs out is a pain. And the ER5 is meant to be a low tech bike, imagine working on a Hayabusa!!
Como e uma moto que esta parada faz tempo tem estes defeitos más fácil de resolver 😊 🤠👍 venho agradecer a você que está na, família R1000. para quem não faz. parte da família venha, ser mas um a ser ajudado pela familia R1000. Nunca desista dos seus sonhos Nunca abandone seus amigos Quando você más precisou eles ficaram com você Não seja egoísta, ajude família R1000 Venha ser más um da família obrigado à todos, quando for nós conteúdos comente que fica bem más fácil eu ver seu conteúdo o RUclips não tá ajudando os pequenos vamos ser ajuda nós todos vamos conseguir a monetização bem más rápido.
Sweet. New vid is up! I'll have to pospone w
atching this til after supper though :/ Looking forward to seeing what's going on!
Rigal we'll your in luck cause I have another 2 I should be loading today/tomorrow
I've always used the old fashioned HOTTAS method for testing coils.
This requires a gulible, trusting assistant (sucker).
You say to the assistant, "Hold On To This A Second" and hand them the end of the HT lead.
You then trip the coil and judge the state of the coil from thier reaction:
No reaction = dead coil or brain dead assistant.
"Ow!!" = weak coil.
"You bastard!!" with a jerking or jumping action = coil OK.
Assistant leap into the air, lays on floor twitching = high output racing coil.
This test is totally safe to the tester as only the assistant suffers.Note that this also works with magnetos.
Andy Reid awesome, will have to find an assistant right away lol
Pony Power I caught my younger brother out twice on the same day whilst sorting the ignition out of his GT380M back in 1988.I told my son about this event last year and whilst we were workingon my son's ignition in the drive, my brother turns up and asks, "Can I help??" to which I replied, "Sure..... hold on to this a second.....", and just as he was about to my son started to laugh and my brother started to have flashbacks to the GT380M incident back in 1988.If you can try to catch your assistant performing a HOTTAS test on camera and post it on U-Tube (or You've Been Framed!!).
Been caught like that before.
Do is a favour youngen, pass us that coil of the bench!
It must have been a racing coil by your scale because I do believe I shit myself. Hahaha chasing things round the bench with a screwdriver after that.
It doesn't look electrical, but leaks in pipes, wrong air petrol mixture can give these problems.........hopefully the next videos will give us the solution.......exciting moments...the fact that it runs on both cylinders once past tickover could be significant......nice idea for a competition.......roy
ROY Dean My thought exactly, just wanted to show others how to narrow down the problem until you have negated everything else. Yeah the idle to main jet was a dead give away. - cheers for the comment - matt
Hi mate great vids just bought a er5 and having same issues as you with running on 1 cylinder at idle , iv gone through all your vids with a tooth come to find out what the issue was and can only assume it was pilot jet which u mentioned in a comment did this sort the issue mate ? Thanks in advance
I was going to suggest doing a vacuum test, like during carb balancing. When you removed the carbs, it appears the rubber bung is missing from the fitting on the right hand carb. (where a vacuum gauge would be connected.) At 13:42 on the video. Is it the right hand cylinder that is dead? That would be a definite leak!
BooCooDaBreeze No thats the line I remove at 12:37. The line is the vacuum line that runs to the fuel tap to open the diaphram. The other matching hole on the left hand carb is still in place. thanks for the comment - matt
So are you running those 2 clear hoses from fuel tank to fuel tap to carbs? Or do others hoses need to be connectod too?
+fps103 The 2 clear hoses run from the tank to the fuel tap. 1 is the main fuel line and the second is the reserve line, otherwise fuel pisses out of the tank/tap
hi, what was wrong with the carburetors, I've been struggling for 6 days now, it won't get gas properly, it chokes
How did you go with this issue? My ER-5 is doing the same, running on one cylinder until you rev it up high the other cylinder kicks back in, sounds like the left cylinder is to blame. I inspected the carbs, cleaned the main jet, float bowls, but didnt take the whole thing apart since it didnt look too dirty.
Any advice
The issue is the pilot jet is blocked. This jet supplies fuel to the engine when at idle, it keeps supplying the cylinder until around 3000 rpm then the main jet kicks in. One thing about carbs and a mistake that many (including me) have made is 'it looks clean'. The holes in the jets are tiny and all it takes is loose crap in the carb to then find its way back into the jet. A good idea is to boil (in water) your carb and then when putting back together do it indoors and wear gloves.
Hope this helps - matt
Hi! Does anybody knows if the spark plug wires for the ER5 are replaceable? It appears to be so but when trying to the twist off the thing that seems to be the lock nut near the coil, it doesn't rotate. I don't want to foce it.. yet.. so waiting for your replies. thanks!
Yes you can - and the caps
@@dirtygarageguy thanks for your fast reply! Is that some sort of lock nut or does the wire needs be screwed in the coil? (same as the spark plug cap screws into the wire?)
my bike cuts out when shift into gear?any info please,(er500 c-5)
+anthony hyatt sorry for the late reply, sounds like your side stand swtich is knackered. This cuts the engine when shifting into gear. Its to stop you riding off with the stand out
+anthony hyatt sorry for the late reply, sounds like your side stand swtich is knackered. This cuts the engine when shifting into gear. Its to stop you riding off with the stand out
hi love the vids I've just bought an er5 to strip down . before i do i need to get it running i have no spark replaced coils and plugs. i have a question for you though if you don't mind. i have 12v at both terminals at all times and i don't think its write. can you tell me if yours did please
You still have the coil connected to the battery? The circuit runs from the input to the end of the HT lead, that is the path running throught the coil pair. Secondly to test the coils you need to measure resistance
If your having trouble with ignition have to got the correct spark gap and do you have any spark at all?
no spark at all at either plug . both plugs are new and both coils.
i have 12v at the coils at both connections doesn't alter when cranked either
the ignition coils are grounded by the starter button and engine stop switch. The fact they you can start the bike and I prosume stop the engine means they're ok. The only other 2 things in the system is the pick-up coil which you can test and the IC, which is abit more complicated but you can test. Do you have the workshop manual?
If you stick a multimeter across both terminals then you won't see more than 12V, thats the primary winding, what were you expecting to see?
so what was the problem in the end?
***** Still got some more videos to come dude, just been on holiday for 3 weeks
I'm watching these vids just out of interest and notice how everything's crammed into a tiny space - must be a nightmare if you big hands. I bet even getting the plugs out is a pain. And the ER5 is meant to be a low tech bike, imagine working on a Hayabusa!!
love that......theres only one thing for it??? drop tank on floor pmsl
both terminals of the coils i ment
Como e uma moto que esta parada faz tempo tem estes defeitos más fácil de resolver 😊
🤠👍 venho agradecer a você que está na, família R1000. para quem não faz. parte da família venha, ser mas um a ser ajudado pela familia R1000.
Nunca desista dos seus sonhos
Nunca abandone seus amigos Quando você más precisou eles ficaram com você
Não seja egoísta, ajude família R1000 Venha ser más um da família obrigado à todos, quando for nós conteúdos comente que fica bem más fácil eu ver seu conteúdo o RUclips não tá ajudando os pequenos vamos ser ajuda nós todos vamos conseguir a monetização bem más rápido.