Thanks for sharing this! The climb is on my to-do list and it's nice to see a few perspectives of folks climbing it. One thing to consider when rappelling - using a rappel extension for your rappel device. Without one, there's a chance of your third hand backup jamming into the rappel device if you were to fully let go and your body shifted in an unexpected way - having that happen would defeat the third hand and you'd fall. Adding an extension to your rappel device separates them more and removes that risk. Some others commented on the anchor setup - while what you did is absolutely safe, I think this video does one of the best jobs describing what might be considered more of a best practice for this sort of a scenario. ruclips.net/video/ZS-W-UIiQ-M/видео.html&pp=gAQBiAQB Thanks again - nice work filming and posting!
My first multi pitch lead climb on sandstone when I got into climbing. My first lead was on the red a white spire the 5.7 R I miss Colorado Springs. So many great climbing places close by! Shelf rd was a favorite as was 11 mile canyon!
Please don't take offense at the following advice: your anchor is not redundant on P1. For the anchor you can add a second sling for a Double Magic X. Or tie and overhand to create a masterpoint in your single sling. Overall, it is pretty incongruous to use two lockers in the Magic X but only one sling--please consider why you wanted redundancy in your biners...but not your sling. I would never let a friend toprop up on a single sling, if it failed that's it.
What he did is actually fine, albeit weird. The sliding X "anchor" was actually just a redirect as he was belaying off his harness, and had himself separately redundantly connected to the bolts. Normally such a redirect would be a single biner. If you're going to carry an ATC guide you might as well belay off the anchor in guide mode instead though.
Right I’m not sure I understand the PAS with all the non lockers before the anchor is built. Should have cloved into the single quick draw you initially put on, stayed on belay, build the anchor and go direct into master point with clove or PAS, then go off belay, then belay partner up off of master point rather than your harness. A single sling is fine, but not with a sliding X and single 60cm isn’t the best choice. You can use a 60cm but sliding x wouldn’t be the move because of all the extension should an anchor point fail and lack of redundancy should a single arm get cut. 120cm with an overhand or figure8 to make a master point is the move to make it redundant and limit extension. Cool climb but would definitely practice multipitch anchor mgmt if you’re going to publish videos. But hey I’m just a guy on the internet. Don’t take it personally, just like to see people be safe up there.
He is on a separate gear anchor. That specifc anchor is super tight to have two people on so I just have them on two bomber cams in a crack by our feet.
@@blainewinters14 Your system is good enough, but in this situation, I usually just have the partner safety in with the rope clove hitched to the main anchor to give a tether long enough for them to stand back on that ledge, and if desired for security, have them use attach their personal tether to a single solid cam near where they are standing (to prevent falling to the end of the rope tether). That way, the main safety is to the bolted anchor, and you can save your cams for the climb. Would also be faster to set up I think. Someone else also commented on the single sliding x redirect being an odd choice. Sliding x with limiter knots and direct belay off the anchor is safer and easier in my mind (unless you're planning around wanting to be able to lower your partner easily). Limiter knots make the sliding x anchor fully redundant to a cut anywhere in the sling, and ATC guide direct belay has assisted braking properties which are nice. Also uses less gear. Cool video though!
8:59 That's the smoothest clips I've ever seen. Like when an epic video game character reloads his gun or something xD
😂😂😂😂definitely! Accurate description
Beautiful place, beautiful geological formation, beautiful day too. Greetings from Italy. Beautiful to see these amazing climbing. So relaxing
Wow that's really exposed. Glad this popped up in my feed, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for sharing this! The climb is on my to-do list and it's nice to see a few perspectives of folks climbing it.
One thing to consider when rappelling - using a rappel extension for your rappel device. Without one, there's a chance of your third hand backup jamming into the rappel device if you were to fully let go and your body shifted in an unexpected way - having that happen would defeat the third hand and you'd fall. Adding an extension to your rappel device separates them more and removes that risk.
Some others commented on the anchor setup - while what you did is absolutely safe, I think this video does one of the best jobs describing what might be considered more of a best practice for this sort of a scenario. ruclips.net/video/ZS-W-UIiQ-M/видео.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
Thanks again - nice work filming and posting!
My first multi pitch lead climb on sandstone when I got into climbing. My first lead was on the red a white spire the 5.7 R I miss Colorado Springs. So many great climbing places close by! Shelf rd was a favorite as was 11 mile canyon!
Please don't take offense at the following advice: your anchor is not redundant on P1. For the anchor you can add a second sling for a Double Magic X. Or tie and overhand to create a masterpoint in your single sling. Overall, it is pretty incongruous to use two lockers in the Magic X but only one sling--please consider why you wanted redundancy in your biners...but not your sling. I would never let a friend toprop up on a single sling, if it failed that's it.
Thanks for the advice, will take into consideration!
I was going to say this! No redundancy, very risky for a sling.
What he did is actually fine, albeit weird. The sliding X "anchor" was actually just a redirect as he was belaying off his harness, and had himself separately redundantly connected to the bolts. Normally such a redirect would be a single biner. If you're going to carry an ATC guide you might as well belay off the anchor in guide mode instead though.
Right I’m not sure I understand the PAS with all the non lockers before the anchor is built. Should have cloved into the single quick draw you initially put on, stayed on belay, build the anchor and go direct into master point with clove or PAS, then go off belay, then belay partner up off of master point rather than your harness. A single sling is fine, but not with a sliding X and single 60cm isn’t the best choice. You can use a 60cm but sliding x wouldn’t be the move because of all the extension should an anchor point fail and lack of redundancy should a single arm get cut. 120cm with an overhand or figure8 to make a master point is the move to make it redundant and limit extension. Cool climb but would definitely practice multipitch anchor mgmt if you’re going to publish videos. But hey I’m just a guy on the internet. Don’t take it personally, just like to see people be safe up there.
Solo this and none of this applies
wow what a beautiful route
Bolts look super spread apart
then, stay home i guess.
Looks awesome, fun and scary!
There are nail ups on Montezumas tower by Layton Kor that would make you shit ive heard. Look across to Kors Korner on South Gateway...hard 5.12 free.
That looks like an awesome climb! I looked for it on Mtn project and couldn’t find it. Where is this at?
Montezumas tower garden of the gods Colorado
Incredible... I only got sick about five times
So sick
Is your partner even tied into an anchor when you start on pitch 2?
He is on a separate gear anchor. That specifc anchor is super tight to have two people on so I just have them on two bomber cams in a crack by our feet.
@@blainewinters14 Your system is good enough, but in this situation, I usually just have the partner safety in with the rope clove hitched to the main anchor to give a tether long enough for them to stand back on that ledge, and if desired for security, have them use attach their personal tether to a single solid cam near where they are standing (to prevent falling to the end of the rope tether). That way, the main safety is to the bolted anchor, and you can save your cams for the climb. Would also be faster to set up I think.
Someone else also commented on the single sliding x redirect being an odd choice. Sliding x with limiter knots and direct belay off the anchor is safer and easier in my mind (unless you're planning around wanting to be able to lower your partner easily). Limiter knots make the sliding x anchor fully redundant to a cut anywhere in the sling, and ATC guide direct belay has assisted braking properties which are nice. Also uses less gear.
Cool video though!