i’ve watched this video like 4 times and it pisses me off every time. the one time that i’d actually hire somebody to do a job for me, they’re not anywhere near where i live. amazing work dude, that’s a thing of beauty.
Nice to see people showcasing the art and craftsmanship of the stone masons who took the time and effort to build these walls rather than just cover them up!!!
My girlfriend and I are doing our 170 year old stone foundation. Man she is tough for we are limited equipment and doing it the hard way with hammer and chisel. No, not air hammers but hand powered hammers. We are also mixing mortar with a shovel and tray. Slowly but surely comin along and looking nice. We are chiseling all of it, not just those loose pieces.
Looks great! I was looking for video on how to repair shale wall, but watched yours instead. It's a hard and tedious work, but at the end looks great! I bet customer is happy
Great clean job! Just a suggestion from my own experience in the Construction industry I have found out the better of doing this work is that you fill an approx a 3' x 3' + - wall area, and then use a flat steel masonry strike to pack the mortar into the joints for better structural bonding and smooth it out at the same time, it always gives you a better product and better looking wall with disting joints.. Like I said it's just a suggestion...
All of the premixed mortars as you buy in a bag are mixed to meet predetermined specs. The ratio of portland cement to lime and sand determines how hard the mix will get. Workability is often overlooked when making these products and they often seem high in sand content but they still produce a product that will meet the mix spec. ASTM standards give a crush strength for type S and type N and they can be mixed high and low on the scale. I worked in the masonry trade for over 40 years. The premixed products are relatively new in the whole picture. The wall you are tuck pointing looks to have mortar that is very bad and looks to be doing nothing. As old as that home and the walls look I doubt if any new style portland cement was used. Probably old slack lime and sand. Since the wall is 1. a bearing wall it is structural and use of type S mortar is called for. 2. it appears that the mortar in the old wall is so bad that I would say there is a good probability that moisture will seep through the wall. 3. The wall is below grade which would call for type S mortar also. Some engineers will spec type M mortar which is all portland cement with no lime when placing below grade. I would say that for all things considered the use of type S mortar would be the best. Also you could mix in some water proofing additive. The term is thumb print hard when determining when it should be tooled. Also the grout bag does not force the mortar into the back of the open joints. The use of a tuck pointing tool would compress the mortar into the joints and should be used. Type N mortar is normally used for veneer situations like brick on a house where strength is not the 1st requirement. N mortar is usually one part lime and one part portland with the required amount of sand. The less sand usually makes the mortar harder and also makes it stickyer which can give it better workability. Increasing the amount of cement will also make it easier to force out of the grout bag and will speed drying time. I would not use type N on these basement walls. You can buy type S that is made for this situation but usually not in the box stores. You have to go to Spec Mix or some one like that.
Great information. Finally someone on here is explaining the actual uses of the different mortars to use of stone foundation. I have been researching this for awhile and I find Mike Haduck to offer the most common sense approach when it comes to masonry
@@unifiltered6840 As I have said you may need to go to a business that sells brick and block to get the premix product desired. In my area I can buy type S or type N premixed in a bag from one of the local brick and blocks sites. Midwest Brick and Block around the St. Louis area and into Missouri, the state with senator josh hawley who created the domestic terrorism on Jan 6,2021, and also into Illinois who has the US representative Mary Miller who's husband a state of Illinois representative who is a supporter of the 3 percenters, a far right domestic terrorist group.
@@Bricky-gs3lp this comment is perfect. I inherited a house built in 1899 and I need to repair my stone basement and I’m in the St. Louis area. I’m new to this DIY stuff but I feel like as long as nothing is out of place, I can save myself a few thousand dollars and just do the tuck pointing myself. At least for this.
@@tylerbhumphries Be warned that this is labor intense. Old mortar needs to be removed and the dust and debris removed preferably by washing. The old stone needs to be somewhat clean and free of dust so that the new mortar can stick to it. You can remove the old mortar with a chisel and hammer or even a hooked rod with the hooked end flattened. I am sure that the home built in 1899 used the old slack lime and sand maybe some portland cement. Not sure if it existed then. I've seen some old walls in the Alton Illinois area that the mortar is like sand and just keeps falling out. Try a small section at first to see what you are dealing with. Have fun you may find yourself in the cellar for a long time.
I acid wash to bring out the shimmer then tuck point with a tinted mud. Sharp looking stone for its age. Usually round field stone with huge joints around here.
My understanding is one should use lime mortar on old wall foundations not Portland cement since this does not allow movement and does not breath.Anyway thank you
That's also my understanding. Hydraulic Lime Mortar or NON-hydraulic (fat) lime mortar (lime putty). I needed information regarding what type of mortar should be used to repair the pointing on my pre-1900s property. I emailed photos of the stonework on my property along with my inquiry. Here is the reply I received: 'Thank you for your email-an interesting building. Most of the photos show a non hydraulic mortar. This is the mortar that would have been used in the original construction. I would suggest that you use this type of mortar for your works. A non hydraulic (fat) lime mortar is different from a hydraulic lime mortar in that it has no chemical set. It only cures (hardens) by absorbing CO2 from the atmosphere. This is quite a slow process, which makes it difficult to use for building but it is not such a problem if you are pointing. It comes to you totally premixed-it will store on site for a long period if you keep the air from it. It is good for DIY restoration where you want to move at your own pace. Unfortunately we do not supply non hydraulic lime. You do not say where the building is located but if you google lime suppliers in your area I am sure you will find somebody who will mix a mortar for you.’ ... End of email reply. There are many youtube videos showing rights and wrongs of stone repair and re-pointing. This one - ruclips.net/video/3Omxc4OK9eE/видео.html - I would say is the definitive youtube video on the catastrophic effects of cement mortar on old stone properties. Education and attitudes change as information becomes available.
Should the mortar not always be softer than the stone ? What mortar was used in the original construction of this building ? Sealing a solid wall will trap moisture so im not convinced this is the best method
Excellent video, very informative. I wish you lived closer to me, I am in northern NY, 10 miles from Canadian border. I have had no luck trying to find competent help here for my stone foundation.
Umm..before you go diy consult a pro 90% of foundation problems are cause by outside conditions if you dont fix them 1st everything you do inside turns to crap
@@chriscaahbaugh2246 this is true. But to repair your exterior foundation wall is a massive job and cost a ton of money. so if your mortar is crumbling on the inside and you don't have a lot of money to spend I see no problem and doing just what this guy did here in this video. It cannot be any worse than doing nothing and doesn't cost much money to do.
Stone wall is very good in foundation but it's very time consuming and expensive currently I working on dry stonemasonry which has 240 ft length and 9 feet height I thing it's labours expensis is approximately 2500 $ except dubbing tipping plastering and waterproofing Coates.....
nice. I guess a good grout bag and the correct mortar makes all the difference. I think I had the wrong equipment. Will have to partially remove my work and all the spillings ...
I had a mason do a little work on one of my basement's stone walls and he (like the TOH people) added a latex product (I think it was Sika Latex R; he called it "mason's milk") to the mortar to help with adhesion. Is that something you do or does the kind of stone you work with and your skill at application (maybe better surface prep?) mean it is not necessary? Thank you for the video! My basement in Massachusetts needs a looooot of work (I think I can do it).The walls also seems to be parged with a material that includes horsehair. I know horsehair was used in plaster, but I didn't realize that was used in stone basements, too.
Yes agree. It will likely be ok for the next 5-10years, but stone walls are designed to move and allow moisture to evaporate, lime mortar enables both these characteristics in older properties. Cement-based mortar traps moisture and will crack as the wall moves… unless Masonry Mortar is formulated with something similar to Lime, there is a risk it is likely to weaken the wall.
@@patrickdrewello4196 the Type N mortar is used for that exact purpose but not sure why he used Type S concrete as the main product. I feel like 1 trowel of Type N mixed with 40 pounds on concrete negates the purpose. From the research I’ve done, Type N should be used for all of it.
@@nzanikos I checked HomeDepot in that area and they carry Quikrete type N and show 189 in stock. Some guys don’t like that brand so you can always check with a concrete supplier to see if you can buy it through them. Good luck on the job!
Looks very satisfying. Do you also evaluate the outside when you take on a job like this? Do you look at possible sources of water and places it builds up?
Nice work! I hope for you it’s a two or three family home but and hold! Today not many people want to do that work. They just don’t give s $hit. Respect ✊ That is a lasting job.
اذا كانت الشقوق بين الحجر ضيقه فبامكانك استخدام عبوة السلكون الفارغه ومكبس السلكون ايضا كما كنت افعل قبل 30 سنة مضت شكرا لكم على الايضاح وعلى هذا الفيديو المفيد جدا
I love the look of this! I have a very similar wall that has years of additional cement crap on there. I started ripping it off and it has beautiful stone under it. What do you use for sealing against moisture to keep the original look? I can only seem to find dry-lock in white or grey.
It costs a lot to excavate and seal the outer foundation wall. Usually they start with the interior walls. The mortar has since turned to sand. It was Type N mortar. that is why I use Type S in most cases. I will use Type N with softer stone.
Should lime mortar be used and not cement when pointing stone? Might be different in warmer climates but because it's porous it helps water to evaporate out of the walls to prevent decay
So when is all said and done how much did the home owner have to pay for this redo. I’m in Canada and have almost the exact same basement but I don’t want to do it myself. So would like to know how much I’m looking at to pay someone. Any advice is much appreciated
I'm In NYC, though we have quality architecture all over this city, what we lack is old school restorers. Not to say we don't have any, they just come at an extremely steep cost. Ironically, some restorers sometimes earn more than owners of 10 million dollar apts. It seems that parts of the Mid-west (Minn) has held on to the tradition of quality restoration. kudos.
I haven’t watched my video for 5 years. Wow! It’s so satisfying to see. So many basements since. Cool teaching quality like Bob Ross.
This is a work of art. Photographs of this could be in a museum. Thank you for producing this video and the work that went into it.
The person that built that wall did an excellent job. ❤❤❤
Literally came to the comments to say that exactly!!!
I watch this about once every few months….amazing work👍
one of the most labor intensive jobs i've seen in a while. looks great.
FINALLY FOUND THE VIDEO I WAS LOOKING FOR CANT WAIT TO WORK ON MY BASEMENT THANKS BROTHER FOR SHARING WITH US REALLY APPRECIATE IT
i’ve watched this video like 4 times and it pisses me off every time. the one time that i’d actually hire somebody to do a job for me, they’re not anywhere near where i live. amazing work dude, that’s a thing of beauty.
Settle down killer 😂
Can't believe they covered that beautiful stone work , stone is the best and the most beautiful ! great job dude
my basement is sandstone....I think it actually needs re-sealed...
Nice to see people showcasing the art and craftsmanship of the stone masons who took the time and effort to build these walls rather than just cover them up!!!
Absolutely fantastic! now all you need are some shackles and chains. Maybe a rack or an iron maiden?
I was congested as you can hear. Wear a good mask that removes mold.
Wow, really fantastic work and attention to detail!
My girlfriend and I are doing our 170 year old stone foundation. Man she is tough for we are limited equipment and doing it the hard way with hammer and chisel. No, not air hammers but hand powered hammers. We are also mixing mortar with a shovel and tray. Slowly but surely comin along and looking nice. We are chiseling all of it, not just those loose pieces.
Hang on to that woman!
Looks great! I was looking for video on how to repair shale wall, but watched yours instead. It's a hard and tedious work, but at the end looks great! I bet customer is happy
Truly an master of your trade brother, beautiful job
Great clean job!
Just a suggestion from my own experience in the Construction industry I have found out the better of doing this work is that you fill an approx a 3' x 3' + - wall area, and then use a flat steel masonry strike to pack the mortar into the joints for better structural bonding and smooth it out at the same time, it always gives you a better product and better looking wall with disting joints..
Like I said it's just a suggestion...
All of the premixed mortars as you buy in a bag are mixed to meet predetermined specs. The ratio of portland cement to lime and sand determines how hard the mix will get. Workability is often overlooked when making these products and they often seem high in sand content but they still produce a product that will meet the mix spec. ASTM standards give a crush strength for type S and type N and they can be mixed high and low on the scale. I worked in the masonry trade for over 40 years. The premixed products are relatively new in the whole picture. The wall you are tuck pointing looks to have mortar that is very bad and looks to be doing nothing. As old as that home and the walls look I doubt if any new style portland cement was used. Probably old slack lime and sand. Since the wall is 1. a bearing wall it is structural and use of type S mortar is called for. 2. it appears that the mortar in the old wall is so bad that I would say there is a good probability that moisture will seep through the wall. 3. The wall is below grade which would call for type S mortar also. Some engineers will spec type M mortar which is all portland cement with no lime when placing below grade. I would say that for all things considered the use of type S mortar would be the best. Also you could mix in some water proofing additive. The term is thumb print hard when determining when it should be tooled. Also the grout bag does not force the mortar into the back of the open joints. The use of a tuck pointing tool would compress the mortar into the joints and should be used. Type N mortar is normally used for veneer situations like brick on a house where strength is not the 1st requirement. N mortar is usually one part lime and one part portland with the required amount of sand. The less sand usually makes the mortar harder and also makes it stickyer which can give it better workability. Increasing the amount of cement will also make it easier to force out of the grout bag and will speed drying time. I would not use type N on these basement walls. You can buy type S that is made for this situation but usually not in the box stores. You have to go to Spec Mix or some one like that.
Bricky1952 thanks for the info much needed
Great information. Finally someone on here is explaining the actual uses of the different mortars to use of stone foundation. I have been researching this for awhile and I find Mike Haduck to offer the most common sense approach when it comes to masonry
@@unifiltered6840 As I have said you may need to go to a business that sells brick and block to get the premix product desired. In my area I can buy type S or type N premixed in a bag from one of the local brick and blocks sites. Midwest Brick and Block around the St. Louis area and into Missouri, the state with senator josh hawley who created the domestic terrorism on Jan 6,2021, and also into Illinois who has the US representative Mary Miller who's husband a state of Illinois representative who is a supporter of the 3 percenters, a far right domestic terrorist group.
@@Bricky-gs3lp this comment is perfect. I inherited a house built in 1899 and I need to repair my stone basement and I’m in the St. Louis area. I’m new to this DIY stuff but I feel like as long as nothing is out of place, I can save myself a few thousand dollars and just do the tuck pointing myself. At least for this.
@@tylerbhumphries Be warned that this is labor intense. Old mortar needs to be removed and the dust and debris removed preferably by washing. The old stone needs to be somewhat clean and free of dust so that the new mortar can stick to it. You can remove the old mortar with a chisel and hammer or even a hooked rod with the hooked end flattened. I am sure that the home built in 1899 used the old slack lime and sand maybe some portland cement. Not sure if it existed then. I've seen some old walls in the Alton Illinois area that the mortar is like sand and just keeps falling out. Try a small section at first to see what you are dealing with. Have fun you may find yourself in the cellar for a long time.
I like the way !
Great work, very nice outcome!
Jesus i would not have the patience for this. Props to you man
This is high quality. Great to have a standard like this for people to see. Thanks.
What a cool basement and an excellent job. Looks great.
Thanks for this helpful video!
Excellent work
It looks great 👍
I acid wash to bring out the shimmer then tuck point with a tinted mud. Sharp looking stone for its age. Usually round field stone with huge joints around here.
Nice work
That's exactly the look I'm after for my dungeon.
Looks fantastic!!! Wish ya'll were in PA!
Excellent work 👍
My understanding is one should use lime mortar on old wall foundations not Portland cement since this does not allow movement and does not breath.Anyway thank you
That's also my understanding. Hydraulic Lime Mortar or NON-hydraulic (fat) lime mortar (lime putty).
I needed information regarding what type of mortar should be used to repair the pointing on my pre-1900s property. I emailed photos of the stonework on my property along with my inquiry. Here is the reply I received:
'Thank you for your email-an interesting building.
Most of the photos show a non hydraulic mortar. This is the mortar that would have been used in the original construction. I would suggest that you use this type of mortar for your works.
A non hydraulic (fat) lime mortar is different from a hydraulic lime mortar in that it has no chemical set. It only cures (hardens) by absorbing CO2 from the atmosphere. This is quite a slow process, which makes it difficult to use for building but it is not such a problem if you are pointing. It comes to you totally premixed-it will store on site for a long period if you keep the air from it. It is good for DIY restoration where you want to move at your own pace.
Unfortunately we do not supply non hydraulic lime. You do not say where the building is located but if you google lime suppliers in your area I am sure you will find somebody who will mix a mortar for you.’
...
End of email reply.
There are many youtube videos showing rights and wrongs of stone repair and re-pointing. This one - ruclips.net/video/3Omxc4OK9eE/видео.html - I would say is the definitive youtube video on the catastrophic effects of cement mortar on old stone properties.
Education and attitudes change as information becomes available.
I absolutely agree. It's going to break those stones over time.
Most helpful vid on RUclips
Nice job. Love it.
Absolutely gorgeous results 😍
Beautiful job!
It looks a million times better than a parged finish.
This came out amazing!!
Should the mortar not always be softer than the stone ? What mortar was used in the original construction of this building ? Sealing a solid wall will trap moisture so im not convinced this is the best method
Lime mortar should be used, for the reasons you mention in your comment. Using mason mix is too hard and doesn't allow it to breathe
Not always the case. I like type S which has Portland clay added. Not too much. Just enough. It’s for strength. It breathes also.
Can't front bro, Really nice. The prep, pastry pointing, brushing, finish, sealing.. 2 thumbs up.
Looks fantastic. How much does something like that cost? Round about
Fabulous job 👏👏👏
Thanks for the video. What did you seal this with?
Excellent video, very informative. I wish you lived closer to me, I am in northern NY, 10 miles from Canadian border. I have had no luck trying to find competent help here for my stone foundation.
Well, now you know how to do it yourself! Also check out Mike Haddock’s RUclips page. Tons of videos like this.
Umm..before you go diy consult a pro 90% of foundation problems are cause by outside conditions if you dont fix them 1st everything you do inside turns to crap
@@chriscaahbaugh2246 this is true. But to repair your exterior foundation wall is a massive job and cost a ton of money. so if your mortar is crumbling on the inside and you don't have a lot of money to spend I see no problem and doing just what this guy did here in this video. It cannot be any worse than doing nothing and doesn't cost much money to do.
Beautiful! Would putting on a fan help or hinder the process? Lol, just watching the end with the fan on...I mean while youre working on it😊
Thank you for information. Very useful. We are buying stone houses in Italy and we are looking to restore them.
@@dougthebuilder1 thank you very much.
Beautiful job! Before & after was amazing!
Stone wall is very good in foundation but it's very time consuming and expensive currently I working on dry stonemasonry which has 240 ft length and 9 feet height I thing it's labours expensis is approximately 2500 $ except dubbing tipping plastering and waterproofing Coates.....
That's awesome that you're using your shirt as a dust mask I do that regularly
Looks amazing man
gorgeous basement.
nice. I guess a good grout bag and the correct mortar makes all the difference. I think I had the wrong equipment. Will have to partially remove my work and all the spillings ...
Why the type S and not full on type N?
Great job!
Power hom and beautiful 🏠👍nice
I had a mason do a little work on one of my basement's stone walls and he (like the TOH people) added a latex product (I think it was Sika Latex R; he called it "mason's milk") to the mortar to help with adhesion. Is that something you do or does the kind of stone you work with and your skill at application (maybe better surface prep?) mean it is not necessary?
Thank you for the video! My basement in Massachusetts needs a looooot of work (I think I can do it).The walls also seems to be parged with a material that includes horsehair. I know horsehair was used in plaster, but I didn't realize that was used in stone basements, too.
Yup.... Horsehair plaster is covering my basement walls in Gettysburg PA.
Looks great.
Awesome job bro
Excellent job
Awesome job mate! I just aquired an old victorian church with a stone basement... might give this a go
What did you Seal the walls with?
Similar to my sandstone mud cellar wall 1850 UK.
Leaks water now. Need to repoint.
what did you use to seal the wall?? or if you have a clip of you sealing let me see...coz I have the same project like this I'm doing..
Me too! What did you end up using for a sealer?
No brushing and watering before filled up with mortar?
Where did you get the grout bags. They really similar to decorating a cake with icing.
my dad makes them out of worn out jeans legscut fold and blanket stitch a line down the length to control flow and yes very like icing
WHERE IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART??????.....ADDING WATER BEFORE AND AFTER THE MUD??????....ALSO, DID YOU BUILD UP THAT WINDOW?
looks sharp and pops good job
Such beautiful stones behind that horrible plaster
great job but wouldn’t it be better to use a lime based mortar? your concrete will lock any moisture into the stone and cause it, in time, to weaken.
Yes agree. It will likely be ok for the next 5-10years, but stone walls are designed to move and allow moisture to evaporate, lime mortar enables both these characteristics in older properties. Cement-based mortar traps moisture and will crack as the wall moves… unless Masonry Mortar is formulated with something similar to Lime, there is a risk it is likely to weaken the wall.
@@patrickdrewello4196 the Type N mortar is used for that exact purpose but not sure why he used Type S concrete as the main product. I feel like 1 trowel of Type N mixed with 40 pounds on concrete negates the purpose. From the research I’ve done, Type N should be used for all of it.
@@may221973 I will be doing a house in Norristown, Pa. I cannot find lime mortar. Is there a brand that I should look for or a supplier near Philly?
?
@@nzanikos I checked HomeDepot in that area and they carry Quikrete type N and show 189 in stock. Some guys don’t like that brand so you can always check with a concrete supplier to see if you can buy it through them. Good luck on the job!
Can i use Portland lime mortar mix type S for this?
Looks very satisfying. Do you also evaluate the outside when you take on a job like this? Do you look at possible sources of water and places it builds up?
Much better look than the plaster coat.
What do you use to seal the stone at the end?
what I was wondering 👍
excellent job
Nice work! I hope for you it’s a two or three family home but and hold! Today not many people want to do that work. They just don’t give s $hit. Respect ✊ That is a lasting job.
thanks for posting this...👍
Totally awesome
Nice render
How much is a job like this?
looks great
Clarice?
My god, that is so much work. Your hands must have been totally in spasms . Feel for ya.
اذا كانت الشقوق بين الحجر ضيقه فبامكانك استخدام عبوة السلكون الفارغه ومكبس السلكون ايضا كما كنت افعل قبل 30 سنة مضت شكرا لكم على الايضاح وعلى هذا الفيديو المفيد جدا
I love the look of this! I have a very similar wall that has years of additional cement crap on there. I started ripping it off and it has beautiful stone under it. What do you use for sealing against moisture to keep the original look? I can only seem to find dry-lock in white or grey.
HD has a stone and concrete sealer. Wet Look.
Who carried all the debris from the wall out of the basement?
That is a lot of work
Was anything done to seal the exterior wall?
It costs a lot to excavate and seal the outer foundation wall. Usually they start with the interior walls. The mortar has since turned to sand. It was Type N mortar. that is why I use Type S in most cases. I will use Type N with softer stone.
what a fantastic job
great job, a horror turned into an amazing stone foundation
Easy.... I could do that If I had ten months !!! Amazing
looks great!!
Wow. Beautiful work.
Beautiful!
Looks great!
Should lime mortar be used and not cement when pointing stone? Might be different in warmer climates but because it's porous it helps water to evaporate out of the walls to prevent decay
you should use lime mortar ;). Natural lime if you can
wow great LOOKING JOB
My basements limestone, probably will be using just type n mortar mix with a binding agent. But some good techniques in here
So when is all said and done how much did the home owner have to pay for this redo. I’m in Canada and have almost the exact same basement but I don’t want to do it myself. So would like to know how much I’m looking at to pay someone. Any advice is much appreciated
Nice instructions, however, what tool is it that your using making all that noise you've not bothered identifying,
or explaining a single word about?
That’s a beautiful foundation. I would love to have one
Yeah, great job! Like the vintage european stone look.
Color me "amazed" at the outcome. Ques: Is there a reason the deeper locations were not brought up to the plane of the wall? Thoughts?
What's the reason for adding a scoop of N to the mix? Been doing a ton of research last few weeks and you're the first I've seen do that!
Smooth out the grout bag.
@@forsbergmicah thank you!
Looks like the best contractors I’ve seen on RUclips are located in MN. I leave in Phila,Pa. not so good
I'm In NYC, though we have quality architecture all over this city, what we lack is old school restorers. Not to say we don't have any, they just come at an extremely steep cost. Ironically, some restorers sometimes earn more than owners of 10 million dollar apts. It seems that parts of the Mid-west (Minn) has held on to the tradition of quality restoration. kudos.